Unfortunately those videos are misleading. The creator typically bashes Schluter for two reasons. Before I continue, I want to say that I'm not paid by Schluter. Some times I accept free materials if my client is already using the Schluter system. And I pass those materials on to my clients at no charge, so I don't make money. With that out of the way, here's how Schluter works. The thin-set (using ALL-SET as an example) bonds to the fleece of the KERDI pan and the fleece on the KERDI-BAND or prefab corners. If the thin-set is applied with the proper trowel and has the proper consistency, the mortar will anchor into the fleece. As the thin-set mortar cures, more crystals anchor into the fleece layers. These crystals create a physical barrier that literally makes the water molecules too big to pass through. The key is this, because the fleece layers are impermeable and ALL-SET is modified thin-set, you need to allow the thin-set to cure based on temperature and humidity. For instance, if you live in Florida and the shower is installed in the summer, I'd allow the thin-set to cure for 24 to 48 hours at a minimum. But if you live in Pittsburgh and install the shower in January, the temperature is low and the humidity is probably low. So the shower can likely be flood tested 24 hours after completion. It's sad, but a lot of those UA-cam videos that bash Schluter do not discuss these principles. Additionally, you come to find out the UA-camr making the video is sponsored by another waterproofing company. For instance, they might bash Schluter then you see them sponsored by Tile Redi or HYDRO-BLOK. Yet the UA-camr doesn't disclose this. Thus, I feel it's misleading and inserts fear into the viewer on purpose just to make the person want to watch the video. Keep all that in mind when you see videos bashing any waterproofing product.
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks. I got the 1/8 x1/8 trowel to use and I'm going to make sure to mix well add the amount of water for doing the membrane making sure to cover all bases with the schluter product so I should be ok. All my walls are plum and level. May I ask is it ok to use another water proofing product over the kerdi board so not to take a chance or it's not recommended . I see so many people doing it but I'm not sure? What so dam confusing is I'm looking at people who've been doing it a long time that are having problems. This stuff isn't cheap either.
Thinset is porous like stone. IT will absorb water. You can test this yourself. Mockup some and let it cure for a few days. Then fill up a bucket of water and watch it sink. Give if a few minutes then pull it out and watch the water drip out. The kerdi product is ok but imo better suited for wall and never the pan where water does sit while the shower is being used.
@@cookinitmax I've used Redgard over my seams before and never had a leak, probably didn't need the Redgard but like you I wanted to be certain it didn't leak.
I wish all UA-cam videos were this well done. Straightforward and to the point without unnecessary talking yet detailed enough to answer all my questions.
Wow, the 3/4" cut off idea is brilliant! I've been installing Schluter for years and never thought of that. I'm actually cutting down/installing a tray tomorrow that's going to have 4' x 4' tile on the walls and certainly don't want to cut and angle on the bottom of those if I don't have to. Thanks so much for that tip!!!!
I did this at my home 9years ago. Had never used it before and it was great. Zero leaks and its a complex shower with multiple body sprays, rain heads, steam, speakers and lights.
@@HomeRepairTutor Id like to know if you have video for preparation and framing of the shower before starting to install the wall membrane and the pan.
@@HomeRepairTutor Thank you again. I already subscribed to your channel. Your tutorials are very detailed and helpful. Im starting a ground up so it would be from framing. I will back and forth following step bay step of your tutorials, especially on water proofing and installation of shower stall.
With all of those specifics I feel it is more goof proof to use a roll on membrane to waterproof the pan, seems like there are fewer ways to cause a leak as long as it's applied thick enough
At 6:30 are you using Kerdi membrane instead of Kerdi band because you had to float out the height imperfection by using the 3/4 inch cut off of the pan?
Great video! I have seen you rip off the 3/4 inch off the perimeter in previous videos, as you mentioned its flat. Im still confused though..... by ripping off the perimeter 3/4 first and then removing say 5 inches off each side and then reinstalling the 3/4 inch is it not at a higher elevation being that the pan is sloped, meaning that butting into the now more narrow and thinner pan this 3/4 inch strip is now abruptly taller leaving almost a step as opposed to a smooth gentle slope?
You’re correct, there’s a height difference. I feather that difference with ALL-SET, let it cure, and then band it. Because the 3/4” perimeter and tray create a seam, I’ll use a custom piece of KERDI to waterproof it to accomplish the two inch overlap
Do you have a video of this process? I am at this stage of the install and am not sure how to continue with the differences in slope and height with the banding.
I have a 6'x6' shower area on a concrete slab (new construction).The concrete is flat. The bathroom is 9'x11'. Want a curbless shower. The drain is off center 36".24 x 23.25" from the wall can I use the schluter system pre made pan in some way to do this? The shower is also a corner entry 40". Any help would be great.....
Thanks for all the great videos. I have started a complete gut and remodel of my master bath (my daughters room). Im using kerdi for the first time and have worked hard to make my studs plum. im now ready to set the kerdi board and pan. my shower is 4.5' x 38" including curb. would one 50 lb bag of all set be what id need to mix to set the pan and curb? Also i plan to wall tile to the far edge of the curb so should i meet my kerdi board and sheetrock in the center of the curb and then use kerdi band on that seam? that would allow me to cover that seam with tile and cover the kerdi band also. is this how you would do it? i plan to joing your website.
Thank you and sounds like you have a great project. Based on your shower pan footprint, I'd mix about 25 pounds of Schluter ALL-SET with 4 quarts of water for the pan and curb. Schluter recommends using 7.5 to 8.5 quarts of water for a 50lb of ALL-SET. Thus, to mix a half bag, I weigh 25 pounds, add 4 quarts of cold/clean water to the bucket, and add the ALL-SET to cut down on the dust. Then mix it per the directions, e.g. 5 minutes of mixing, 10 minutes of slaking (sitting) and 3 minutes of mixing. Then use a 1/4" x 3/8" square notched trowel to set the pan and curb. I can send you additional videos of all that to help out. As for where to end the waterproofing. If you can end the board outside the shower, that's preferable. Here's why, I like to bond the board to the curb and waterproof those transitions with banding and the prefab corners. Again, I have lots of videos on all that as well and would be happy to explain further based on your specific project. If the banding extends beyond the tile I feather it with Setting Type Joint compound (first coat) because it dries harder than premixed joint compound. Once it's feathered, you can prime and paint the joint compound. Hope all that helps but let me know your questions.
@@HomeRepairTutor my shower is actually 4.5’ X 36” plus the 4” curb. So 40”. I plan to cut the curb height down and use kerdi fix and band to seal it. I’ve watched all your stuff but can’t find anything about using mud and paint over kerdi band. I ask someone else and they advised not to but I trust you. I’ll runs it to the edge flush with curb then use kerdi band to join with Sheetrock. Mud over that with what kinda mud? Then I can paint over that. If you had a video would be sweet. I have a premade niche so I framed for it. I hope my figures are correct. Didn’t want to try to cut and add it after I start tile. I’m using 12x24” tile vertical in shower walls so I think I’ll be ok.
Another great video! Something I have wondered about before is while installing kerdi fabric or kerdi band, how much of the thinset do you squeeze out with the drywall knife? Obviously you want it embedded nicely. But do tou think it's best apply a lot of pressure or go over it multiple times to get everything you can out, or to go a little more lightly?
Thank you 🙏🏼 when I embed the thin-set I try to express out just enough to get the banding flat, but not more. Mixing ALL-SET to the membrane consistency (8 quarts of water per 50 lb bag) and using the right trowel make the waterproofing so much easier
I'm working on a 3' x 5' shower with the drain at one end. my drain is in the concrete foundation so I don't want to have to move it but it is closer to the wall than my Kerdi pan drain. I'm going to cut about 8" off the end to align them but like you said it leaves it low in the middle. since it's a short distance can I use extra thinset under my floor tile to bring it up level with the sides rather than trying to squeeze that small 3/4" trim in there? And thanks, great video.
@@HomeRepairTutor no, I have the kerdi pan with the drain at one end, I believe it's 36"x60". The drain hole in the Kerdi pan is about 8" from the end of the pan. My drain in the shower floor is about 4" from the wall so the Kerdi pan drain hole and my floor drain don't line up. I need to cut about 4" off the Kerdi pan at that end. If I cut a 3/4" piece off first then the other 3 1/4" off that leaves a big height difference when I reinstall the 3/4" piece. My thinking was I could just cut off the 4" and not the 3/4" piece then use extra mud on my floor tiles to raise them level with the sides, not sure if that would work? Hope that makes sense.
@@DIYRankings it's in a basement and runs down through the concrete slab, can't move it without a lot of expense... I ended up cutting the pad between the drain and the wall and building it up slightly before applying the Kerdi over it.
here's another tip mostly for homeowners but contractors sometimes think they don't need to. Read the instructions slowly, carefully and follow them especially if you think you know what they entail. What a simple mistake that would be if a manufacture comes out with a revised product.
I think I understand the benefit of cutting off the 3/4 perimeter of the Kerdi pan to provide a flat, level base for the wall tile to eliminate scribing. But after cutting off the 3/4, and depending on how much additional is needed to be cut off to fit the shower footprint, wouldn't there be a step difference in height between the 3/4 inch piece and the rest of the base? Or is this difference handled by filling with mortar?
Thanks again for all these great and informative videos! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular? I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!
It’s best practice to have the plywood grain be perpendicular to the floor joists. And it’s critical to have the joist span follow the Schluter Handbook, eg 16” on-center with 3/4” plywood. To me it’s worth the time to make the plywood as sturdy as possible. The screw size and schedule are also important
@@shkhamd I added redguard to all the seems in my Kerdi shower, 10 years and no leaks. I probably didn't even need the Redguard but people were bashing Kerdi then so I was a little nervous about it. I'm doing a different shower now and will be using the Kerdi again. Those youtubers can bash it now all they want, I have 10 years proof the stuff works. Just follow the directions, they are simple.
@@shkhamd I've done this and had no issues. 8 years no leaks with my shower installation. Honestly the major downside of kerdi is the seam buildup with the overlapping bands especially at corners. It makes a difference when you tile and have to backbutter all your tiles to avoid lippage.
Hey Jeff, THANK YOU so much for the detailed info and excellence your videos are about!! I'm 2 inches short on one side of the pan and I have 2 extra inches on the other side. Can I "extend" the shorter side with my 2 extra inches of shower pan and then water proof it to avoid using the dry pack mortar?
Hey Chris, thank you! Send me an email at jeff@homerepairtutor.com along with a few pictures of your shower pan. That way, I can see what you’re dealing with and can give you some ideas
Level substrate is the key I believe. Load bearing after installation and 2 people dancing under the multiple shower heads 😊 metal lathe over tar paper and covered with shower pan material up the wall 4-5 inches and a nice dry pack mud bed sloped to the drain. Latex admixture to some mapei thin set. Dura Rock sanded silicone based caulking tile to tile wall joints throw some shluder strips end tile. You have nice materials and techniques. I'll ask a local contractor what would he charge for a small bathroom renovation. Rotten joists. Only when he gives me an estimate will I specify the materials he will have to use. Thinking the estimate might increase. Poor installer has to be monitored closely 😅 nice video.
FYI when cutting with the skill saw you should maintain a straight egress, you are whipping the saw on a curve at the end, which we can see your kerdi board has a curve cut in the end.
Do you have any experience laying porcelain tile from China. Any problems with it or is the quality okay? From reputable company, but I only have used italian porcelain before! Thanks
It’s hard to say, I feel like tiles are all problematic in some way. I always want to see the tiles in person to assess the mesh (mosaics), edges, and if possible how it will score and snap
Thank you for your great videos. I am in the process of my first shower renovation and have followed much of your advice. I have a question regarding my Kerdi pan. While dry fitting it, I stepped on it and cracked the Styrofoam. The membrane itself is fine and the foam backing is still smooth. Would it be OK to still use this or should I replace it? Also, I used GoBoard for the walls and painted over the GoBoard sealant with Red Guard. Can I use Schluter thin set (which is modified) over Red Guard when laying the tile?
I’m not sure about that cracked foam, I’d call Schluter technical support and see what they say. Wish I could help a bit more on that question. You should be able to tile over the RedGard with modified thin-set. What kind of tile are you setting?
@@HomeRepairTutor 12x24" 1/4" porcelain tile. Red Guard says you need a polymer-based modified thinset and GoBoard can use any kind. So will the Schluter work? Thanks!
@@CosmoKramer5B Schluter ALL-SET is modified thin-set mortar, you can use it for the large format tiles. The correct trowel size is the one that provides 95% thin-set coverage. Either a 1/4” x 3/8” square notched or 1/2” x 1/2” square notched trowel would be a good place to start.
Always helpful videos! Can I use self-leveler after kerdi boards, kerdi curb, and a kerdi bench are already installed? Just where my shower pan will be?
@@HomeRepairTutor Yes, thank you. I am putting SLC on plywood subfloor. I'm asking if curb and bench can already be in place adjacent to where the pan will be.
@ ahhh, yes, I’d seal the floor transition with silicone then staple sill seal to the bottom 1” of the curb, bench and boards to create an expansion joint for the leveler. Is the drain installed?
@@HomeRepairTutor Thanks! Yes, the drain is installed...pipe is sticking up and capped, just needs to be cut down. But I'd use spray foam around drain opening in subfloor to create a dam so leveler doesn't escape down the hole. I'm basically just trying to finish my bathroom floor tile before shower, but was told i need to put kerdi band on OUTSIDE of curb to adhere to Ditra so then I need to install curb and bench first in order to do that. Is that right?
Schluter sponsored my workshop which was awesome. Hotel , meals and happy hour paid in full. I still float traditional fat mud...deck mud showers but info and prep key.
I think a mudpack with roll on membrane has less margin for error, as long as you slope the drypack and roll on enough membrane the pan should be goof proof opposed to using the wrong corner piece or something simple like that of kerdi and thats all it takes for failure.
When you tile your floor and walls, which do you do 1st? Opinions seem evenly split on this. I would like to do my floor 1st because i need that extra little bit of height for my full tiles to work out to the ceiling. Your videos are great! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏🏼 I set the floor first and leave an expansion joint at the backer board, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Then I protect the tile floor with Ram Board and tile the walls. Again, I leave a 1/16 to 1/8 inch joint between the tile floor and tile walls 👍🏼
can i install a shower schluter pan on a shower that has already a shower curb installed? instead of doing a mud bed the pan looks easier since the floor is leveled. but since there is a shower curb installed i was wondering if the thin-set has to squish out of the schluter pan ? or do i have to leave a 1/8 gap on the pan so the excess thin-set can come out?
Can you clarify the project a bit more? Are you trying to install a new Schluter pan to concrete or over an existing shower pan made of dry pack? I normally tear out all of the old shower, including the curb. That way, I can design the shower based on the tile I’m using and be 100% sure it’s properly waterproofed.
No, they recommend a 1/4” x 3/8” square or u-notched trowel on page 24 of the Installation Handbook, here’s the link resources.schluter.com/media/psi/lowes/Shower%20System%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
I’d wait 4-6 hours to allow the thin-set to cure. The thin-set is just a supporting bed for the pan that helps it bond to the substrate. It’s critical to keep it level so the pre-slope will drain water
@@neb7784 the ratio is 2 quarts of water for 55 pounds of 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix if you’re trying to extend a pan. But you need to use ALL-SET for setting the pan
You should install the shower pan first ,then the schluter boards,on the bottom i would put kerdy fix to attach the boards with the pan ,and seal it with kerdy band ,over kill and not going to leak ever
@HomeRepairTutor this schluter product itself sucks.. I know at least 5 contractors who experienced leaks.. believe me, the thinset won't stop water from leaking.. Just apply waterproof liquid around the corners, is that easy, and safe
Wait, when you reuse the 3/4" edges aren't you creating a new weak point in the shower pan, and a potential leak? I thought the whole point of a shower pan was to be a solid base.
The kerdi "pan" isn't the same as some solid piece plastic pan. You could just plan/be lucky and build one with the same dimensions as the pans come in. Different mortars are water proof/highly resistant, too.
The only way to avoid problems with a product, is not to use it. Many installers have only used this product and method, and think that there is nothing wrong with it.
Every KERDI install just looks wrong from the basic perspective of layering a water proof membrane. In every non KERBI install the floor is installed first, then the walls… for obvious reasons. Why not with KERBI? The mortar used isn’t waterproof.
The first thing you need to understand is how the system works. The waterproofing occurs when thin-set is between two layers of fleece. The thin-set mortar anchors into the fleece layers. And as time passes, the mortar crystals grow. The crystals continue to anchor into the fleece and create a matrix so tight that the water molecules are too big to pass through.
@@HomeRepairTutor With these "dynamic" materials, are they proven to last? I would be worried about anything with a chemical change occurring over time. It's a lot of trust in this system, though apparently it works!
@@HomeRepairTutor haha- keep drinking the schlueter kool aid ! sounds like ou took one of their greta marketing/training sessions all expenses paid plus lots of swag. two water permeable materials do NOT make up[ a non permeable system without a chemical reaction CHANGING one of both materials. The fleece doesnt change and the thin set all set doesnt interact chemically with the fleece. If you want a waterproof joint use Verdi fix BUT schlueter america does NOT encourage this correct way as its TOO expensive nd they want their already overexpensiev products system to competecinnunrqeulated use market-this set is OT allowed in EU, Why ? ITS NOT waterproof !! You have to have a really messed up install with any system even DIY fro visible water damage leaks to appear in even 5 years let alone 1 year. Good luck getting builder or shouter to help you then. Verdi fix is a great product, schlueter drains are excellent (tho some are better), but the way it attaches their leaking fabric with mortar is not the way to create a 50 year shower.
That's one option, but still requires skill and understanding of how the principles and methodologies work so the shower will perform. Thus, in that sense, KERDI and concrete are similar - you still need skills for both and attention to detail.
Sounds like you also are stuck in 1960. Most people do what the customer wants, wet bed, dry pack, schulter, RSS, go board. They all work if you are willing to learn something new.
I wouldn't trust that product in a shower pan period. Plus, I don't like the hollow sound you get because its foam. Im old school tile setter. That product is for people who have money to blow. The cost of 1 kit can pay for 3 showers to be floated.
@@UA-camgroomskids I don’t agree, if you install it properly there is no hollow sound. Not to mention that most people are not going to float properly and get puddling which causes musty smells and moldy grout due to standing water. Pans do not cost a lot of money and the drains don’t rely on weep holes that ultimately clog and cause more water problems
I’ve seen many videos say the thin set isn’t water proof allowing water to Penetrate under the KERDI Membrane or penetrate into the subfloor.
Unfortunately those videos are misleading. The creator typically bashes Schluter for two reasons. Before I continue, I want to say that I'm not paid by Schluter. Some times I accept free materials if my client is already using the Schluter system. And I pass those materials on to my clients at no charge, so I don't make money. With that out of the way, here's how Schluter works. The thin-set (using ALL-SET as an example) bonds to the fleece of the KERDI pan and the fleece on the KERDI-BAND or prefab corners. If the thin-set is applied with the proper trowel and has the proper consistency, the mortar will anchor into the fleece. As the thin-set mortar cures, more crystals anchor into the fleece layers. These crystals create a physical barrier that literally makes the water molecules too big to pass through.
The key is this, because the fleece layers are impermeable and ALL-SET is modified thin-set, you need to allow the thin-set to cure based on temperature and humidity. For instance, if you live in Florida and the shower is installed in the summer, I'd allow the thin-set to cure for 24 to 48 hours at a minimum. But if you live in Pittsburgh and install the shower in January, the temperature is low and the humidity is probably low. So the shower can likely be flood tested 24 hours after completion.
It's sad, but a lot of those UA-cam videos that bash Schluter do not discuss these principles. Additionally, you come to find out the UA-camr making the video is sponsored by another waterproofing company. For instance, they might bash Schluter then you see them sponsored by Tile Redi or HYDRO-BLOK. Yet the UA-camr doesn't disclose this. Thus, I feel it's misleading and inserts fear into the viewer on purpose just to make the person want to watch the video. Keep all that in mind when you see videos bashing any waterproofing product.
@@HomeRepairTutor thanks.
I got the 1/8 x1/8 trowel to use and I'm going to make sure to mix well add the amount of water for doing the membrane making sure to cover all bases with the schluter product so I should be ok.
All my walls are plum and level.
May I ask is it ok to use another water proofing product over the kerdi board so not to take a chance or it's not recommended .
I see so many people doing it but I'm not sure?
What so dam confusing is I'm looking at people who've been doing it a long time that are having problems.
This stuff isn't cheap either.
@@HomeRepairTutor what youtuber ?
Thinset is porous like stone. IT will absorb water. You can test this yourself. Mockup some and let it cure for a few days. Then fill up a bucket of water and watch it sink. Give if a few minutes then pull it out and watch the water drip out. The kerdi product is ok but imo better suited for wall and never the pan where water does sit while the shower is being used.
@@cookinitmax I've used Redgard over my seams before and never had a leak, probably didn't need the Redgard but like you I wanted to be certain it didn't leak.
Thanks for lots of proper, good information, delivered concisely.
@@lyndonthan4350 thank you 🙏🏽
I wish all UA-cam videos were this well done. Straightforward and to the point without unnecessary talking yet detailed enough to answer all my questions.
@@caseybeckett165 thank you 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
I totally agree with this video! Been installing with this method for over 10 years without any issues whatsoever…
Wow, the 3/4" cut off idea is brilliant! I've been installing Schluter for years and never thought of that. I'm actually cutting down/installing a tray tomorrow that's going to have 4' x 4' tile on the walls and certainly don't want to cut and angle on the bottom of those if I don't have to. Thanks so much for that tip!!!!
Is there a particular saw blade you like to use when trimming the shower pan?
I did this at my home 9years ago. Had never used it before and it was great. Zero leaks and its a complex shower with multiple body sprays, rain heads, steam, speakers and lights.
That’s terrific 🙌🏼🔥🙌🏼🔥
So far one of the best tutorials. Thanks
🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@HomeRepairTutor Id like to know if you have video for preparation and framing of the shower before starting to install the wall membrane and the pan.
@@henryian yes, I have videos that explain that inside my Video Library at homerepairtutor.com
@@HomeRepairTutor Thank you again. I already subscribed to your channel. Your tutorials are very detailed and helpful. Im starting a ground up so it would be from framing. I will back and forth following step bay step of your tutorials, especially on water proofing and installation of shower stall.
You are a boss. I’m going to be doing this in my house build and this was pretty much a perfect video. Well done
With all of those specifics I feel it is more goof proof to use a roll on membrane to waterproof the pan, seems like there are fewer ways to cause a leak as long as it's applied thick enough
@@thelog86 so you don’t need to do that since there’s already fleece on the pan 👍🏽
Great video, thanks Jeff!
Thank you 🙏🏼 hopefully it’s helpful.
At 6:30 are you using Kerdi membrane instead of Kerdi band because you had to float out the height imperfection by using the 3/4 inch cut off of the pan?
Great video! I have seen you rip off the 3/4 inch off the perimeter in previous videos, as you mentioned its flat. Im still confused though..... by ripping off the perimeter 3/4 first and then removing say 5 inches off each side and then reinstalling the 3/4 inch is it not at a higher elevation being that the pan is sloped, meaning that butting into the now more narrow and thinner pan this 3/4 inch strip is now abruptly taller leaving almost a step as opposed to a smooth gentle slope?
You’re correct, there’s a height difference. I feather that difference with ALL-SET, let it cure, and then band it. Because the 3/4” perimeter and tray create a seam, I’ll use a custom piece of KERDI to waterproof it to accomplish the two inch overlap
Do you have a video of this process? I am at this stage of the install and am not sure how to continue with the differences in slope and height with the banding.
I have a 6'x6' shower area on a concrete slab (new construction).The concrete is flat. The bathroom is 9'x11'. Want a curbless shower. The drain is off center 36".24 x 23.25" from the wall can I use the schluter system pre made pan in some way to do this? The shower is also a corner entry 40". Any help would be great.....
Thanks for all the great videos. I have started a complete gut and remodel of my master bath (my daughters room). Im using kerdi for the first time and have worked hard to make my studs plum. im now ready to set the kerdi board and pan. my shower is 4.5' x 38" including curb. would one 50 lb bag of all set be what id need to mix to set the pan and curb? Also i plan to wall tile to the far edge of the curb so should i meet my kerdi board and sheetrock in the center of the curb and then use kerdi band on that seam? that would allow me to cover that seam with tile and cover the kerdi band also. is this how you would do it? i plan to joing your website.
Thank you and sounds like you have a great project. Based on your shower pan footprint, I'd mix about 25 pounds of Schluter ALL-SET with 4 quarts of water for the pan and curb. Schluter recommends using 7.5 to 8.5 quarts of water for a 50lb of ALL-SET. Thus, to mix a half bag, I weigh 25 pounds, add 4 quarts of cold/clean water to the bucket, and add the ALL-SET to cut down on the dust. Then mix it per the directions, e.g. 5 minutes of mixing, 10 minutes of slaking (sitting) and 3 minutes of mixing. Then use a 1/4" x 3/8" square notched trowel to set the pan and curb. I can send you additional videos of all that to help out.
As for where to end the waterproofing. If you can end the board outside the shower, that's preferable. Here's why, I like to bond the board to the curb and waterproof those transitions with banding and the prefab corners. Again, I have lots of videos on all that as well and would be happy to explain further based on your specific project. If the banding extends beyond the tile I feather it with Setting Type Joint compound (first coat) because it dries harder than premixed joint compound. Once it's feathered, you can prime and paint the joint compound.
Hope all that helps but let me know your questions.
@@HomeRepairTutor my shower is actually 4.5’ X 36” plus the 4” curb. So 40”. I plan to cut the curb height down and use kerdi fix and band to seal it.
I’ve watched all your stuff but can’t find anything about using mud and paint over kerdi band. I ask someone else and they advised not to but I trust you. I’ll runs it to the edge flush with curb then use kerdi band to join with Sheetrock. Mud over that with what kinda mud? Then I can paint over that. If you had a video would be sweet. I have a premade niche so I framed for it. I hope my figures are correct. Didn’t want to try to cut and add it after I start tile. I’m using 12x24” tile vertical in shower walls so I think I’ll be ok.
Another great video! Something I have wondered about before is while installing kerdi fabric or kerdi band, how much of the thinset do you squeeze out with the drywall knife? Obviously you want it embedded nicely. But do tou think it's best apply a lot of pressure or go over it multiple times to get everything you can out, or to go a little more lightly?
Thank you 🙏🏼 when I embed the thin-set I try to express out just enough to get the banding flat, but not more. Mixing ALL-SET to the membrane consistency (8 quarts of water per 50 lb bag) and using the right trowel make the waterproofing so much easier
I'm working on a 3' x 5' shower with the drain at one end. my drain is in the concrete foundation so I don't want to have to move it but it is closer to the wall than my Kerdi pan drain. I'm going to cut about 8" off the end to align them but like you said it leaves it low in the middle. since it's a short distance can I use extra thinset under my floor tile to bring it up level with the sides rather than trying to squeeze that small 3/4" trim in there?
And thanks, great video.
@@LG-ve9us if you need to extend your shower pan that can be done with mud bed mix. Is that what you’re looking to do?
@@HomeRepairTutor no, I have the kerdi pan with the drain at one end, I believe it's 36"x60". The drain hole in the Kerdi pan is about 8" from the end of the pan. My drain in the shower floor is about 4" from the wall so the Kerdi pan drain hole and my floor drain don't line up. I need to cut about 4" off the Kerdi pan at that end. If I cut a 3/4" piece off first then the other 3 1/4" off that leaves a big height difference when I reinstall the 3/4" piece.
My thinking was I could just cut off the 4" and not the 3/4" piece then use extra mud on my floor tiles to raise them level with the sides, not sure if that would work?
Hope that makes sense.
@@LG-ve9ustry moving your drain , we had the same issue in our house.
@@DIYRankings it's in a basement and runs down through the concrete slab, can't move it without a lot of expense... I ended up cutting the pad between the drain and the wall and building it up slightly before applying the Kerdi over it.
here's another tip mostly for homeowners but contractors sometimes think they don't need to. Read the instructions slowly, carefully and follow them especially if you think you know what they entail. What a simple mistake that would be if a manufacture comes out with a revised product.
Great tips 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I think I understand the benefit of cutting off the 3/4 perimeter of the Kerdi pan to provide a flat, level base for the wall tile to eliminate scribing. But after cutting off the 3/4, and depending on how much additional is needed to be cut off to fit the shower footprint, wouldn't there be a step difference in height between the 3/4 inch piece and the rest of the base? Or is this difference handled by filling with mortar?
Thanks again for all these great and informative videos! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular?
I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!
It’s best practice to have the plywood grain be perpendicular to the floor joists. And it’s critical to have the joist span follow the Schluter Handbook, eg 16” on-center with 3/4” plywood. To me it’s worth the time to make the plywood as sturdy as possible. The screw size and schedule are also important
Would it work out ok to install the kerdi pan first, then the wall board? This would basically use up the 3/4 flat on the pan perimeter.
Yes, you can do that as well. Just protect the pan with cardboard
I personally like using redgard or hydra ban. With a drypack bed. It's never failed me.
Curious whether it would make sense adding redguard on top of the kerdi membrane
Same question
@@shkhamd I added redguard to all the seems in my Kerdi shower, 10 years and no leaks. I probably didn't even need the Redguard but people were bashing Kerdi then so I was a little nervous about it. I'm doing a different shower now and will be using the Kerdi again. Those youtubers can bash it now all they want, I have 10 years proof the stuff works. Just follow the directions, they are simple.
@@shkhamd I've done this and had no issues. 8 years no leaks with my shower installation. Honestly the major downside of kerdi is the seam buildup with the overlapping bands especially at corners. It makes a difference when you tile and have to backbutter all your tiles to avoid lippage.
Hey Jeff, THANK YOU so much for the detailed info and excellence your videos are about!! I'm 2 inches short on one side of the pan and I have 2 extra inches on the other side. Can I "extend" the shorter side with my 2 extra inches of shower pan and then water proof it to avoid using the dry pack mortar?
Hey Chris, thank you! Send me an email at jeff@homerepairtutor.com along with a few pictures of your shower pan. That way, I can see what you’re dealing with and can give you some ideas
@@HomeRepairTutor really? You’re awesome!! THANK YOU for helping a total stranger!! I’m done for the day but I’ll be back tomorrow
Hello Jeff, Can I put another 1/2" plywood over the 3/4 subfloor then install the pan. It give more support I thinks.
Level substrate is the key I believe. Load bearing after installation and 2 people dancing under the multiple shower heads 😊 metal lathe over tar paper and covered with shower pan material up the wall 4-5 inches and a nice dry pack mud bed sloped to the drain. Latex admixture to some mapei thin set. Dura Rock sanded silicone based caulking tile to tile wall joints throw some shluder strips end tile. You have nice materials and techniques. I'll ask a local contractor what would he charge for a small bathroom renovation. Rotten joists. Only when he gives me an estimate will I specify the materials he will have to use. Thinking the estimate might increase. Poor installer has to be monitored closely 😅 nice video.
What about the pan itself do you need to skim it or is it already water proof?
It’s waterproof due to the KERDI but has to be addressed at the wall and curb
Hello, I have a 34" x 77" pan size. Schluter only makes the 60" long pan, is it ok to extend 17" with mud mix? thank you.
@@cagedgymratt yes, you can do that but need to account for the slope, so it’ll have to be raised 1/4” per linear foot
FYI when cutting with the skill saw you should maintain a straight egress, you are whipping the saw on a curve at the end, which we can see your kerdi board has a curve cut in the end.
Do you have any experience laying porcelain tile from China.
Any problems with it or is the quality okay?
From reputable company, but I only have used italian porcelain before! Thanks
It’s hard to say, I feel like tiles are all problematic in some way. I always want to see the tiles in person to assess the mesh (mosaics), edges, and if possible how it will score and snap
@@HomeRepairTutor
Excellent advice, thank you for the reply!
I am assuming that it is made in China is not much of an issue for tile.
When cutting down the kerdi pan, do you have to put Kerdi fix in-between the flat edges of the pan that are added back?
@@SilasY2K good question, you don’t but you could
Can I set half of the Kerdi shower curb on tile and the other half the cement floor?
What do you recommend for the curb? I'm only a young architect
These days I mostly use 2 inch KERDI-BOARD to build custom curbs
Thank you for your great videos. I am in the process of my first shower renovation and have followed much of your advice. I have a question regarding my Kerdi pan. While dry fitting it, I stepped on it and cracked the Styrofoam. The membrane itself is fine and the foam backing is still smooth. Would it be OK to still use this or should I replace it? Also, I used GoBoard for the walls and painted over the GoBoard sealant with Red Guard. Can I use Schluter thin set (which is modified) over Red Guard when laying the tile?
I’m not sure about that cracked foam, I’d call Schluter technical support and see what they say. Wish I could help a bit more on that question. You should be able to tile over the RedGard with modified thin-set. What kind of tile are you setting?
@@HomeRepairTutor 12x24" 1/4" porcelain tile. Red Guard says you need a polymer-based modified thinset and GoBoard can use any kind. So will the Schluter work? Thanks!
@@CosmoKramer5B Schluter ALL-SET is modified thin-set mortar, you can use it for the large format tiles. The correct trowel size is the one that provides 95% thin-set coverage. Either a 1/4” x 3/8” square notched or 1/2” x 1/2” square notched trowel would be a good place to start.
Always helpful videos! Can I use self-leveler after kerdi boards, kerdi curb, and a kerdi bench are already installed? Just where my shower pan will be?
@@LisaLubin thank you, you’d want to use the leveler over the subfloor or concrete and not the pan
@@HomeRepairTutor Yes, thank you. I am putting SLC on plywood subfloor. I'm asking if curb and bench can already be in place adjacent to where the pan will be.
@ ahhh, yes, I’d seal the floor transition with silicone then staple sill seal to the bottom 1” of the curb, bench and boards to create an expansion joint for the leveler. Is the drain installed?
@@HomeRepairTutor Thanks! Yes, the drain is installed...pipe is sticking up and capped, just needs to be cut down. But I'd use spray foam around drain opening in subfloor to create a dam so leveler doesn't escape down the hole. I'm basically just trying to finish my bathroom floor tile before shower, but was told i need to put kerdi band on OUTSIDE of curb to adhere to Ditra so then I need to install curb and bench first in order to do that. Is that right?
@ you’d have to install the curb and waterproof it in order to tie it into the DITRA.
Schluter sponsored my workshop which was awesome. Hotel , meals and happy hour paid in full. I still float traditional fat mud...deck mud showers but info and prep key.
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
I think a mudpack with roll on membrane has less margin for error, as long as you slope the drypack and roll on enough membrane the pan should be goof proof opposed to using the wrong corner piece or something simple like that of kerdi and thats all it takes for failure.
How long this last and what kind of weight it can handle compared to mud tray.
Can I just use GoBoard and sealant? Seems like it would be a lot easier.
@@Cesium67 for the walls?
When you tile your floor and walls, which do you do 1st? Opinions seem evenly split on this. I would like to do my floor 1st because i need that extra little bit of height for my full tiles to work out to the ceiling. Your videos are great! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏🏼 I set the floor first and leave an expansion joint at the backer board, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Then I protect the tile floor with Ram Board and tile the walls. Again, I leave a 1/16 to 1/8 inch joint between the tile floor and tile walls 👍🏼
How can I find full video😊
can i install a shower schluter pan on a shower that has already a shower curb installed? instead of doing a mud bed the pan looks easier since the floor is leveled. but since there is a shower curb installed i was wondering if the thin-set has to squish out of the schluter pan ? or do i have to leave a 1/8 gap on the pan so the excess thin-set can come out?
Can you clarify the project a bit more? Are you trying to install a new Schluter pan to concrete or over an existing shower pan made of dry pack?
I normally tear out all of the old shower, including the curb. That way, I can design the shower based on the tile I’m using and be 100% sure it’s properly waterproofed.
Would it be ok to set a shower tray first before putting up membrane andthen using kerdi band ?
I agree logically the kerdi membrane will have a natural overlap
Big ad of schluter products but you can definitely use other brands
Hello mate, what brand of pants you have on, cool pockets
I like Duluth Trading DuluthFlex pants
Jeff, Schluter recommends 1/2” square trowel for the shower pan but you recommend 1/4” !!!
No, they recommend a 1/4” x 3/8” square or u-notched trowel on page 24 of the Installation Handbook, here’s the link resources.schluter.com/media/psi/lowes/Shower%20System%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
@@HomeRepairTutor i must have mistaken, but that 3/4 tip is amazing, appreciated jeff
1/4 by 3/8s actually.
After setting the shower pan, can I walk on it the same day or wait 24 hours?
I’d wait 4-6 hours to allow the thin-set to cure. The thin-set is just a supporting bed for the pan that helps it bond to the substrate. It’s critical to keep it level so the pre-slope will drain water
How much water do I use for the the 4 to mud bud mix for a 2 gallon bucket?
@@neb7784 the ratio is 2 quarts of water for 55 pounds of 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix if you’re trying to extend a pan. But you need to use ALL-SET for setting the pan
@@HomeRepairTutor I had to use self leveler in the bathroom. Do I need to prime it before I set my pan or can I just go on top of it?
fantastic video
Thank you 🙏🏽
Can i butt up 2 curbs together because two came in the pack, but they’re not long enough
Yes, apply thin-set to the sides that need to be bonded together
If I set my Kerdi Shower tray with the Kerdi Trowel, do you foresee any issues with adhesion later on?
Did you already set your tray?
You should install the shower pan first ,then the schluter boards,on the bottom i would put kerdy fix to attach the boards with the pan ,and seal it with kerdy band ,over kill and not going to leak ever
why noy use red guard?
it's a waste of product and time over Schluter
And finalize with HydroBan or AquaDefense.. will become 100% waterproof
those are unnecessary if you install Schluter correctly
@HomeRepairTutor this schluter product itself sucks.. I know at least 5 contractors who experienced leaks.. believe me, the thinset won't stop water from leaking..
Just apply waterproof liquid around the corners, is that easy, and safe
Wait, when you reuse the 3/4" edges aren't you creating a new weak point in the shower pan, and a potential leak? I thought the whole point of a shower pan was to be a solid base.
I second this question!
The kerdi band will cover this and seal it.
The kerdi "pan" isn't the same as some solid piece plastic pan.
You could just plan/be lucky and build one with the same dimensions as the pans come in. Different mortars are water proof/highly resistant, too.
Yes this method is sort of Frankenstein….but be sure to not set any tile smaller than 2”x2” on the pan or it will fail later..
I wish I had the courage 😩😩
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
The only way to avoid problems with a product, is not to use it. Many installers have only used this product and method, and think that there is nothing wrong with it.
Every KERDI install just looks wrong from the basic perspective of layering a water proof membrane.
In every non KERBI install the floor is installed first, then the walls… for obvious reasons.
Why not with KERBI? The mortar used isn’t waterproof.
The first thing you need to understand is how the system works. The waterproofing occurs when thin-set is between two layers of fleece. The thin-set mortar anchors into the fleece layers. And as time passes, the mortar crystals grow. The crystals continue to anchor into the fleece and create a matrix so tight that the water molecules are too big to pass through.
@@HomeRepairTutor With these "dynamic" materials, are they proven to last? I would be worried about anything with a chemical change occurring over time. It's a lot of trust in this system, though apparently it works!
@@HomeRepairTutor haha- keep drinking the schlueter kool aid ! sounds like ou took one of their greta marketing/training sessions all expenses paid plus lots of swag. two water permeable materials do NOT make up[ a non permeable system without a chemical reaction CHANGING one of both materials. The fleece doesnt change and the thin set all set doesnt interact chemically with the fleece. If you want a waterproof joint use Verdi fix BUT schlueter america does NOT encourage this correct way as its TOO expensive nd they want their already overexpensiev products system to competecinnunrqeulated use market-this set is OT allowed in EU, Why ? ITS NOT waterproof !! You have to have a really messed up install with any system even DIY fro visible water damage leaks to appear in even 5 years let alone 1 year. Good luck getting builder or shouter to help you then. Verdi fix is a great product, schlueter drains are excellent (tho some are better), but the way it attaches their leaking fabric with mortar is not the way to create a 50 year shower.
Now I want a Wendy's Frosty
Haha, me too. Every time I mix thin-set that’s all I can think about
Hi need to go back to school sorry brother
How so?
I still don't hommopp I do the preparing with latt and sement
dafuq is curty shower pan. we do concrete son
That's one option, but still requires skill and understanding of how the principles and methodologies work so the shower will perform. Thus, in that sense, KERDI and concrete are similar - you still need skills for both and attention to detail.
@@HomeRepairTutor correct which bis ERXCTLY why you should use a liquid waterproofing mebeerane like Hydroban, 3 coats.
Sounds like you also are stuck in 1960. Most people do what the customer wants, wet bed, dry pack, schulter, RSS, go board. They all work if you are willing to learn something new.
I wouldn't trust that product in a shower pan period. Plus, I don't like the hollow sound you get because its foam. Im old school tile setter. That product is for people who have money to blow. The cost of 1 kit can pay for 3 showers to be floated.
@@UA-camgroomskids I don’t agree, if you install it properly there is no hollow sound. Not to mention that most people are not going to float properly and get puddling which causes musty smells and moldy grout due to standing water. Pans do not cost a lot of money and the drains don’t rely on weep holes that ultimately clog and cause more water problems