@@BathroomRemodelingTeacherI bought a 4” coupler and it is 4.5” inner diameter so the drain flange doesn’t actually go all the way in and sit flush with the top of the coupler
Don't know if Schluter has reworked their water ratios or bag size since this was shot, but the last bag of Schluter All Set I used recommended 6 to 7 quarts per 50 lb bag for setting membrane, 5.1 to 5.8 quarts per 50 lb bag for setting tile.
Great vid! love the tips! I also back butter my kerdi pans before putting them in. Great idea for the curbs. I only use xflo flanges i learned that you still have to use the schluter grate holder and not the plastic one that comes with the xflo sch;uter drain grates wont fit inside of it. As always great vids keep it up! you are helping.
Flo fx drains are awesome. I think their flange is better than schluters for sure. I still like the actual drain assembly for Schluter. Easy to push and get into place 👍 Thanks
For curbless over concrete you have to either dig up concrete and pour new concrete and mud bed or raise entire outside floor. Really no other way around it unless you ramp up to pan level
@@chrissimons8748 Wedi is thinner. So if you are going build up floor height, that would be a better way to go. Both have their pros and cons. I’d say that Wedi is a better foam product overall. Tougher, fully waterproof through core, and more rigid
@Bathroom Remodeling Teacher thanks for replying so quickly! I will most likely apply floor leveler to level slab. I saw in one video you put down ur heated floor within the leveler is that correct? Than tile straight into shower. With thay being said i guess i could put leveler around the footprint of shower possibly than wedi board.
What’s the reason for removing the 2x4s from the concrete around the rough in plumbing in the beginning? Would it be a problem to leave them and just add the concrete?
Is there a way to do a curbless shower in a concrete foundation using a premade shower pan or a pre-sloped shower base? Or do you have to use deck mud?
what's your thought on these schluter drains failing ?. Other channels are showing these drains delaminate over time and fail. Not so much of a problem over concrete but wood flooring would get destroyed.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher yes, the drain delaminates on the bottom and it'll leak. He showed an actual shower fail and also did an experiment by simply soaking the drain in water over a year.
You didn't use any primer on the concrete. Is this not necessary? You also didn't use any self levelling cement to level out the concrete. When would this be required?
I noticed that the finished curb is a lot more wider (deeper or thicker, depends how you look at it) than schluter curb itself. Did you had to build it up with thinset?
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher What where the dimensions of the cut curb prior to tiling? I bought a curb, but it's just too big for small bathroom. Thanks
My drain is cemented into the floor under where the bathtub drain was, near the wall. I am removing the tub and replacing with shower. How can I relocate the drain in a concrete floor? Help
Always install your shower pan first and then install your kerdi board and banding over top, that was if water runs down the wall it will land in the shower pan and not behind on your sub floor. Also, protect your shower pan while installing the drain...and holes in the fabric will compromise its water proofness. This guy is in too much of a rush and really isn't demonstrating the best way to do this.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Be that as it may, did they specifically address why you'd want to do the walls first? Seems counter intuitive to any water diversion system practices I've ever seen before. Video is still great, lots of good tips! :-). EDIT ADD ON: Nevermind, I just remembered it won't matter as much so long as you tile the floor FIRST. Cheers! :-)
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I have. The only reason they tell you to do the wall first is so that you avoid damaging the shower tray if it is down first. You stomping on the tray with your work boots wasn't in the seminar either. So, after 10 years, when their warranty is expiring, I'd rather have any potential water incursion find its way down the wall into the pan. The manufacturer will always tell you to do what protects them, and not the job for 15 to 20 years. Put down the pan first, protect it with cardboard, then install the wall over the pan and seal it.
Perfect example for me. Almost exact type of shower remodeling I'm doing.
Plus, have you ever seen a failure in the system?
@@ericc155 I have 3 of my own showers with Kerdi, oldest is 12-13 yrs and no problem at all, still use and believe in the product in my remodels
This is by far the most straightforward and useful guide I've found so far so thank you :)
Thank you Sir, watching your video is easier to understand than the Schluter's company video. You gave best real world examples :).
Thank you for posting a video on how to install this with a concrete floor
I like how you did the waterproofing looks like a foot outside the curb.
I have been using the Schluter system for a long time! I love it!
Great advice on 4” coupler and inside pipe cutter. Thank you!
Good tips in there. The 5" coupling especially so I won't have to deal with half a cubic foot of fresh concrete when adjusting my flange. Thanks !
It was a standard 4” btw 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacherI bought a 4” coupler and it is 4.5” inner diameter so the drain flange doesn’t actually go all the way in and sit flush with the top of the coupler
@ it should for a Schluter drain. Only need 4 1/2”
WOW! Looks GREAT!!
Very nice! The tip about reinforcing the divits at the end was helpful too. 👍🏻 Stuff happens. It's good to know how to deal with it.
Exellent work and great explanation, thank you!!👍🏽
great vid...perfect work too thx for sharing
I wish I saw this video yesterday!
Don't know if Schluter has reworked their water ratios or bag size since this was shot, but the last bag of Schluter All Set I used recommended 6 to 7 quarts per 50 lb bag for setting membrane, 5.1 to 5.8 quarts per 50 lb bag for setting tile.
Probably has. This was done 3 1/2 years ago. Good point to always refer to specs 👍
What would be the reason not to coat the existing concrete floor with waterproofing and use a bare floor as a shower? Thanks
Thanks for the great video 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
You are installing the shower pan after the wall board has been installed down to the ground level. Is this the preferred order?
Have any of you guys ever use different membranes together like go board walls and curbs together with a kerdi sheet membrane for the floor?
Goboard is all I use.
Merry Christmas Steve! 🎄🎅
Merry Christmas 🎁
Great vid! love the tips! I also back butter my kerdi pans before putting them in. Great idea for the curbs. I only use xflo flanges i learned that you still have to use the schluter grate holder and not the plastic one that comes with the xflo sch;uter drain grates wont fit inside of it. As always great vids keep it up! you are helping.
Flo fx drains are awesome. I think their flange is better than schluters for sure. I still like the actual drain assembly for Schluter. Easy to push and get into place 👍 Thanks
Can you do a curbless with a concrete floor? What would u recommend? Could you do a video for that with the heating system you use?
The electric heated floor system.
For curbless over concrete you have to either dig up concrete and pour new concrete and mud bed or raise entire outside floor. Really no other way around it unless you ramp up to pan level
@Bathroom Remodeling Teacher ok ty! Would u reccommend using the wedi system? Or schluter etc,
@@chrissimons8748 Wedi is thinner. So if you are going build up floor height, that would be a better way to go. Both have their pros and cons. I’d say that Wedi is a better foam product overall. Tougher, fully waterproof through core, and more rigid
@Bathroom Remodeling Teacher thanks for replying so quickly! I will most likely apply floor leveler to level slab. I saw in one video you put down ur heated floor within the leveler is that correct? Than tile straight into shower. With thay being said i guess i could put leveler around the footprint of shower possibly than wedi board.
So you don’t need to let the thinset for the shower pan dry before installing the drain flange? Or putting weight on the shower pan?
What’s the reason for removing the 2x4s from the concrete around the rough in plumbing in the beginning? Would it be a problem to leave them and just add the concrete?
Thank you
Nice !
Is there a way to do a curbless shower in a concrete foundation using a premade shower pan or a pre-sloped shower base? Or do you have to use deck mud?
How do you slope the curb if making it like that, thanks
if you had to guess, after cutting pipe to the correct height for drain, how far below the surface of concrete is the pipe ?
Have you had good experiences with hexagonal mosaics on the schluter pans? Was thinking about some for anti slip. Thanks for making the video.
what's your thought on these schluter drains failing ?. Other channels are showing these drains delaminate over time and fail. Not so much of a problem over concrete but wood flooring would get destroyed.
Who’s doing that? Tilecoach?
Never heard of such a thing or problem
Guess anything is possible
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher yes, the drain delaminates on the bottom and it'll leak. He showed an actual shower fail and also did an experiment by simply soaking the drain in water over a year.
@@AA-sq1xz yeah tile coach is great for documentation like that. Hopefully he soaks the Flo fx drain for next years video 😆
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher lol, what state are you located in?
Does it matter if you install the wall or the pan first?
I was wondering the same thing. Makes way more sense to me to do the walls second. That way the water doesn't even hit a joint coming down the wall.
Random question, can the pre sloped pans be cut on the outside to accommodate a shower floor opening that is not the exact dimensions of the pan.
yes
They can. 👍🏻
You didn't use any primer on the concrete. Is this not necessary? You also didn't use any self levelling cement to level out the concrete. When would this be required?
Love your videos! What do you call the cap that you place on top of the shower curb? And where do you buy it?
It was just the kerdi membrane that I cut to fit over it 👍
It’s called a curb cap
I noticed that the finished curb is a lot more wider (deeper or thicker, depends how you look at it) than schluter curb itself. Did you had to build it up with thinset?
Yeah I added a piece of kerdi board and built up thinset when setting side tiles 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher What where the dimensions of the cut curb prior to tiling? I bought a curb, but it's just too big for small bathroom. Thanks
Why didn’t you back butter the pan?
Do you cut the donut/ fleece" out of kerdi membrane? I don't see it for sale anywhere?
My drain is cemented into the floor under where the bathtub drain was, near the wall. I am removing the tub and replacing with shower. How can I relocate the drain in a concrete floor? Help
How you pitch the floor without mud?
Always install your shower pan first and then install your kerdi board and banding over top, that was if water runs down the wall it will land in the shower pan and not behind on your sub floor. Also, protect your shower pan while installing the drain...and holes in the fabric will compromise its water proofness. This guy is in too much of a rush and really isn't demonstrating the best way to do this.
Go to a Schluter seminar someday 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Be that as it may, did they specifically address why you'd want to do the walls first? Seems counter intuitive to any water diversion system practices I've ever seen before. Video is still great, lots of good tips! :-). EDIT ADD ON: Nevermind, I just remembered it won't matter as much so long as you tile the floor FIRST. Cheers! :-)
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I have. The only reason they tell you to do the wall first is so that you avoid damaging the shower tray if it is down first. You stomping on the tray with your work boots wasn't in the seminar either. So, after 10 years, when their warranty is expiring, I'd rather have any potential water incursion find its way down the wall into the pan. The manufacturer will always tell you to do what protects them, and not the job for 15 to 20 years. Put down the pan first, protect it with cardboard, then install the wall over the pan and seal it.