I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" tile size minimum does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content. Great videos, guys, thank you!
I think they require you put down a coat of mud and let it dry first for penny tile. If the compression strenth is 57 pounds per square inch, you can easily exceed that with penny tile.
Re-Modeling my master bathroom here right now as a DIY´er. I use the Schlüter System. I am watching you guys and the Tile Coach. Both of you give me great insights into all this! Me, doing this the first time, I take my time. I can only mix one pound of Schlüter All-Set at a time when I install the Kerdy bands. Otherwise it would set up on me, HA! It takes me so much time to put it all in place and make sure it turns out right! Thank you for your tutorials!
Total cake Walk compared to old school floating and water proofing . Just like plumbing with PEX . You guys got it easy I wish this stuff was around 30 years ago. Cheers 🥂
Nice to see a real world video of an installation like this. The ones where the film it with a perfect-situation mock-up don’t relate to the real world.
Great explanation as usual boys, I am getting older now and don't use mortar beds anymore, they are a lot of work and demand a lot of heavy lifting to install. I only use the Schluter pans now, simple and proven!!
thank you, these new pans are nice because the fleece is already pre-installed. One less step, same with the curb. Mortar is still good but like you said, getting older makes them a bit more challenging
So some of the pans come with preslope, others don't. Do they not need a preslope prior to installation. I need the pan 38x60 with the offset drain 10 inches from the short side. But it doesn't have a preslope. The pans with the drain in the middle have preslope
Do you use all that crap on the wall. I like the pans. Though, they make WaterproofFiber board that weighs only 2.5 pounds a sheet, That wall system is allot of work. And Money. The Fiber board is 1/2" screw right into the studs. Tape or caulk the seams.
First, thank you for all of the great content! I recently installed my first full schluter system for a shower. I opted not to pour self-leveler after talking to a friend and tile contractor who felt the floor was plenty level. Back story, I should have seen the red flag that the contractor had never installed over pre-sloped shower pan (always does mud jobs). I did however check for plumb in the shower area and looked good. After installed the pan, I checked again for plumb and was looking good. After the tile was installed the plumber returned to install the fittings and notices a "high" plateau spot in the pan that caused standing water. 60% of the pan drains yet this one spot does not, which the contractor told me I must have installed the pan incorrectly. We did select a 2" hex ... not sure if that was a bad option for the pre-sloped pans or not. My main question is if anyone has ever run into this issue and the best way to fix. From what I can tell, it would be to tile overtop of the other tile and fix the slope issue. My fear or removing the old tile would be to ruin the pan and impact the membrane. Thoughts? Thanks again!
I want to give both of you kudos on your knowledge and expertise on shower installs. You both explain all phases of shower installation to a tee, you even give advice on different circumstances. I watch a lot of UA-cam videos for repair and installation, you 2 are the best. I have never performed a shower install, but by the way you explain it, I feel that I have! Thanks, and keep up the good work. I bought all my Kerdi supplies after watching your video.
The shower pan and curb with Kerdi pre installed is nice. The way Steve had to run the plumbing for the drain was a little different. Great video, well explained.
thanks, the new shower pans have Kerdi pre-installed which is super nice. Same goes with Schluter's new curbs, no more wrapping the curb with Kerdi membrane
Taking on a new tub to shower replacement and this video answered so many questions about using the Schluter System Kerdi kit that many other video's I have watched, failed to do. Great job. Thank you.
Well... my night's complete now. Oh, and tomorrow I'm starting a Bathroom remodeling business because I have ALL the info step by step to succeed!!! Another fantastic video guys. Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!
this was so helptful! we are currently gutting a shower because we saw that the baseboard trim was warped, and we start pulling stuff off and mold, mold, mold.......so the shower is being gutted, the ugly tile has to come off the floor of the main part of the bathroom and the subfloor has to be pulled up too....ugh.....I love the kerdi products..they make life so much easier...cuz I don't have 10-15k to pay someone, but I will pay for a plumber to make sure the drain is right. Thank God nothing leaked to the ceiling on the main floor, the shower we are gutting is on the 2nd floor. but we need to check the joists for mold and spray the hell out of them with mold killer just in case. This is a tiny shower so working in cramped quarters should be fun.....lol. I've seen other videos that say to use unmodified thinset for the membrane, but Shluter makes modified and unmodified and the bag of modified thinset says it's for used with all Kerdi membrane products.......so which is best. From what I read the modified is a newer and better product.
I have read that penny tile is an issue for some people on the foam pans since the point loads are so small and it can compress them into it and anything under 2 inches is not recommended. However, I've heard others say it's fine, or to use an epoxy grout to make sure they stay put and become more of a monolithic piece. Thank you for the video!
True, do not use penny tile on a foam pan. The heal of a heavy person is enough pressure to fracture the grout, including epoxy. 2 inches is not only recommended but I believe it's spelled out in the warrantee, but I may be wrong about that.
Thanks for the video. Lots of great info. Want to eliminate notching the curb? I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
This is an excellent video! I demo my master bath in two days and will be converting a fiberglass tub surround to a walk-in shower using the Kerdi system. This video will be referenced a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Love all your other vids too.
upoliaghi , came out pretty sweet. I had the glass splash screen in last week, all fixtures are in place. All in all pretty nice if I say so myself. Thanks for asking. Good luck with yours.
Schluter and wedi make solid 2” board with the membrane on both sides. I use this to make my own curbs. Complete flexibility in size. I usually double the board up and cut to desired height.
Great video thanks for posting. I did want to ask why people are installing the pan right on the OSB? Why not put down some cement board to not only solidify the base, but to "save" the OSB in case you ever have to tear up the shower.... A piece of Hardie-backer that size is $12... I'm doing that on my install... ;)
Great videos man. Feel like I could have taken a whole different career direction had such videos been available back in the day (pre internets). Alas, I only do occasional bathroom remodels for friends and family, but with professional results.
Very helpful videos, always nice to see the whole process. Btw, hate to be the guy who has to replace the floor tile once he realizes the curb is on top of the tile
Very informative videos, thank you guys. Is the thinset optional, tbe product manual states : Schluter®-KERDI-SHOWER-T/-TS/-TT are sloped shower trays with integrated KERDI waterproofing. The trays are made of lightweight, expanded polystyrene for constructing mortar- free shower bases.
Such great stuff from you guys. To take the time to video your process is extremely generous. Keep up the good work. Love the videos. Consummate professionals.
I always wonder why they roll out the membrane sheets vertically instead of horizontally. I’d think having a horizontal seam with a roof tile overlap would be much more waterproof than an equivalent seam running vertically 🤔
Thanks again for this great and informative video! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular? I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!
great video!! but at the end you showed us how the drain is adjustable by pushing down to be flush with the final thin set penny tile!! but you just put thin set under it!! when that thin set dries how will it push down?? am I missing something??
I have installed my walls (Kerdi board) but haven’t taped yet. I now think I’d feel better if I trim the wall bottoms to accept the pan after thin set, cut the pan to fit stud to stud, remove the pan and tape the walls, install the pan, Kerdi fix where the walls meet the pan and curbs, tape the pan and curbs (my kit uses membrane on the pan and curbs). Would you talk me out of this? If yes, why?
Great Vid. I'd like to cut the width and Height of the curb so it's not so bulky. Any video on this. I have a pony wall the curb butts into. I don't want the finished tile outside the Drywalled pony wall.
All good until I saw the penny round floor tile at the very end. If I recall, they specifically tell you not to lay penny tile or other small format on a Kerdi pan.
They say not to put the kurdi band all the way into the corner. You should leave a 2 inch gap from the corner or you will have an excessive buildup in the corners with all the different layers.
I just had to pull off all my kerdi band and corner fleeces after seeing air bubbles when semi dried. I was so worried about buildup that i squeezed out all my cement. Nerve racking
Thanks so much and great videos. Just wonder if it's better to thinset bottom corners before the wall membrane? Seems to me it's more logical and have way less chance to have water get through the joint, since this way, water will always flow over the joint rather than into the joint
You mentioned that if you don’t have access to the underside of the drain, and will have to connect the drain first, that you have to attach the material before you lay in the pan. But how will the pan go over the drain? Isn’t the opening smaller than the drain?
Thanks gor the great content! What are your thoughts on using schluter shower tray with a liquid waterproofing membrane on the cement board for the walls?
I'm installing my first shcluter shower pan/curb for my construction company up here in Boone NC. I ran into the same issues such as cutting out part of the bottom of the curb to allow for the existing tile. Your video has been very helpful. Question I have is does it matter if you install backer board after the pan to come down on the pan and of course tape and seal everything the same way shcluter recommends?
Great video and really helpful. Just a question on the Kerdi curb installation. Why did Steve leave a gap between the tray and bathroom tile so he would make those custom cuts on the curb at 18:30? Could he not have made the tray flush with the tile and then rested the curb on top where they both (tile and tray) meet?
Sayfee Yousef He would have needed to notch the curb anyway. A typical pan slope is around 1/4” per foot. A 2” gap would have been around less than 1/16” added towards the tile. The difference in height in the tile and pan was 1”, so if the pan was cut flash with the tile the difference would have been 15/16” still needing to be notched. Want to eliminate notching the curb? I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
Thank you so much for posting this, but I have a question… does the system has pre set drop or angle for the water to run to the drain? I didn’t see this done!
Hi I love your videos and I have learned so much from them, thank you. I m planning to remodel my old bathroom that has a tub, I want to remove the tub and install a shower. I want to use pre sloped pan so I can tile right over it. I m a new DIYer so I don’t feel comfortable with the base. Now I am confused between three products- KBRS, Kerdi Board and Wedi system. Since you have used all three can you recommend which one would be cost effective and easy to work with that has better water proof for a long time. Please please help me with this I really appreciate it
sorry we missed your question, Schluter is very user friendly and can be affordable compared to other options. KBRS's Tile-Basin is the easiest to install but you'll need to fur out the walls. That can be inconvenient. Wedi is also very straight forward but carries a high price tag. Let us know if you still need help and we'd be happy to assist.
Couple questions: The Schuter pan is pre-sloped to the drain, correct? Can you post the exact shower kit system you’re using? The Schuter site seems to indicate the drain and flange are not part of the kit. Also, if you are doing a very small shower stall, you’d still buy this larger kit and cut it down (possibly in half)?
yes, pre-sloped to drain at all four corners. We used the KERDI-SHOWER-T 38" x 60" shower tray and got the ABS drain separately. Schluter also makes the KERDI-SHOWER-TT (Thin Tray) in smaller sizes, those might be a good option for you if you're okay with the center drain - let us know if you have any questions though, happy to help.
At 33:14 Steve demonstrates how the strainer can be adjusted after the tile is installed. But the at 34:11 he puts thinset under the corners of the strainer bottom. How does this allow adjustment?
great video. couple of questions. did you do all the kerdi band, shower tray, and curb with just a half a bag of all set. also how did you ties in the existing wall on the right to the kerdi of the shower wall. thanks
What about build up in the corners with the band overlap. Since you are installing their corners why the over lap at corners? I know Kerdi does not want the liner lapped when installing the kerti band. The band is thinner and reduces build up.
I thought I heard somewhere that when you use the full Schluter Kerdi board system, it is not a good idea to use 2" or greater tile for the floor. Please advise
As long as the corners are properly seemed and sealed with kerdi band it doesn’t matter whether the walls are on top of, or adjacent to the pan. It will be water proof either way. Schluter’s instructional video for their pan show the walls up first and adjacent to the pan.
@@scottspooner6070 It is NOT increasing the chance of a leak. It gets KERDI BAND, either way, along with preformed corners (typically come with a drain kit, or available seperately). As for checking to see if the fabric is "truly waterproof"? You are kidding, right?
@@CoyoteConstruction1 Not kidding at all. If it was as fool proof as you think there wouldn't be all these videos of failures. Homeowners want shower systems that don't fail period. Many installers leave the homeowners with a damaged home that ends up costing them a fortune. The KBRS system while expensive works. Do you guarantee your installation against leaks for 10 years?
Can the shower pan corners and Kerdi Band be put in first over the pan before the wall membrane is hung so the membrane overlaps the corners and banding? Does it make any difference? My thinking is that it would be best to shed water over and not behind the corners and Kerdi Band. Thanks.
Is just the thinset enough to hold that curb in?... seems like itvwould be flimsy if you step on it getting in shower?... also can you use glass shower doors /sliding type with Kerdi.. stop? Thx
Did you do a water test? I do a water test for 24 hrs. Then dry fit tiles and when ready to tile THEN set the grate in thinset so can adjust for height to tile while still wet? Just curious why grate was set prior or if you do not need to do a water test and can tile right away?
is it best to have the main floor tile done before the shower curb? or if you were re-tiling the whole room would it be best to bond the curb to new ditra?
great video! i'm using the schluter shower pan and wrap.i'm building a bench seat also,so i was wondering if i put that purple wall board on the plywood before the wrap? thanks.
Can you install part of the kerdi curb overtop of the kerdi shower tray instead of directly on the plywood? So half on the kerdi shower tray, and the other half overlapping the tile?
Thanks for your videos! They are very informative and helpful. If the shower area is out of level how would you go about leveling? Would you place the curb first (leveled with extra thin-set) and then use that as a dam to level the shower floor? Would you use self leveler if so, do you have a recommendation that's available at big box stores? Thanks!!
You've probably got past this point but that's what I would do if using a pre sloped pan. If not you have to pack a mud bed which is a little harder. If you use self leveler make for sure it has no where to leak. At all because it will find a way
I see that you overlapped the corner floor piece with the other pieces...but I watched a video by Schluter systems and they butted the pieces up against the inside corner pieces and did not overlap it. Wouldn’t the way you did form too much build up of materials and affect tiles by creating a bump?
Good afternoon I also have recently put in a Schluter shower pan but I cut a piece on the side because I was an inch off Centre and added it to the other side. If I use tape 2 inch kerdi tape and thin set Will this fix the problem to the shower pad? I may need to send you a picture to explain.
Question, I have a seam where two pieces of my 3/4” Plywood Subfloor meet that will be underneath the Schluter Pan. Do I need to pull them back up to add short sections of 2x4 or 2x8 between each Joist Space along that Plywood Seam? Or would any deflection up and down along that seam not be a big deal since it’s Under my pan and wouldn’t transfer to my tile on top of the pan? Thanks.
Since it’s been 2 months you’ve probably addressed this. But for others, if you step on it and there’s any deflection then yes it needs reinforcement. These preformed pans are nice but their not structural at all and need a solid base.
Schluter claimed that they will warranty their products if exterior Plywood is used not Particle board. Please explain of you using particle board in this video
I don't get it. Why did you install the pan last? All I see is a possible leak between the pan and the walls. I would've installed the pan first than the walls on top on the pan, that way even if those joint fail, it wouldn't matter as much. Maybe I'm wrong.
At 33:12 he says that once the tile is in, you press the strainer down to the level of the tile. At 34:08, he put thin-set on the corners of the strainer. When tiling, if a final adjustment needs to be made, wouldn't the tin-set make it impossible to make that adjustment to the strainer? I'm confused.
yes, you're absolutely correct. In this shower we tiled right after setting the shower tray. Little risky if you need to flood test. Since we set the strainer and tiled afterward we still had time to adjust the height. Sorry for the confusion.
That for the quickest reply I’ve ever received. So if setting the tile a couple of days later, you could put the thin-set on the strainer then I assume. Love your videos, by the way.
@@woodmeister14467 lol, was sitting at the computer when you sent your question. Yes, flood test, allow the pan to dry, and set your strainer and tile at the same time. Tile should be slightly higher than the strainer to allow for proper drainage and avoid puddling. Roughly 1/32" above the strainer is all you need.
Honestly you need painted on membrane to go over everything, this system fails at the flange, drain and curb corners if water pools due to spot tiling.
I never knew it was so much work in making a tile shower. Incredible.
I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" tile size minimum does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content.
Great videos, guys, thank you!
I think they require you put down a coat of mud and let it dry first for penny tile. If the compression strenth is 57 pounds per square inch, you can easily exceed that with penny tile.
Re-Modeling my master bathroom here right now as a DIY´er. I use the Schlüter System. I am watching you guys and the Tile Coach. Both of you give me great insights into all this! Me, doing this the first time, I take my time. I can only mix one pound of Schlüter All-Set at a time when I install the Kerdy bands. Otherwise it would set up on me, HA! It takes me so much time to put it all in place and make sure it turns out right! Thank you for your tutorials!
You literally are me lol. Bout to do my master bath and also using these guys a Tile Coach lol
Same here. These guys all provide fantastic advice and techniques. I too am going slow as this is my first master bath gut rehab. Thank you!!!
Yyh
i also kerdi fix the the gap between the walls and pan before i run the band, love these videos
Total cake Walk compared to old school floating and water proofing . Just like plumbing with PEX . You guys got it easy I wish this stuff was around 30 years ago. Cheers 🥂
Nice to see a real world video of an installation like this. The ones where the film it with a perfect-situation mock-up don’t relate to the real world.
Great explanation as usual boys, I am getting older now and don't use mortar beds anymore, they are a lot of work and demand a lot of heavy lifting to install. I only use the Schluter pans now, simple and proven!!
thank you, these new pans are nice because the fleece is already pre-installed. One less step, same with the curb. Mortar is still good but like you said, getting older makes them a bit more challenging
So some of the pans come with preslope, others don't. Do they not need a preslope prior to installation. I need the pan 38x60 with the offset drain 10 inches from the short side. But it doesn't have a preslope. The pans with the drain in the middle have preslope
Do you use all that crap on the wall. I like the pans. Though, they make WaterproofFiber board that weighs only 2.5 pounds a sheet, That wall system is allot of work. And Money. The Fiber board is 1/2" screw right into the studs. Tape or caulk the seams.
Very good narrating..clearly spoken and always using proper words to describe what's going on. Good voice for it!
First, thank you for all of the great content! I recently installed my first full schluter system for a shower. I opted not to pour self-leveler after talking to a friend and tile contractor who felt the floor was plenty level. Back story, I should have seen the red flag that the contractor had never installed over pre-sloped shower pan (always does mud jobs). I did however check for plumb in the shower area and looked good. After installed the pan, I checked again for plumb and was looking good. After the tile was installed the plumber returned to install the fittings and notices a "high" plateau spot in the pan that caused standing water. 60% of the pan drains yet this one spot does not, which the contractor told me I must have installed the pan incorrectly. We did select a 2" hex ... not sure if that was a bad option for the pre-sloped pans or not. My main question is if anyone has ever run into this issue and the best way to fix. From what I can tell, it would be to tile overtop of the other tile and fix the slope issue. My fear or removing the old tile would be to ruin the pan and impact the membrane. Thoughts? Thanks again!
I want to give both of you kudos on your knowledge and expertise on shower installs. You both explain all phases of shower installation to a tee, you even give advice on different circumstances. I watch a lot of UA-cam videos for repair and installation, you 2 are the best. I have never performed a shower install, but by the way you explain it, I feel that I have! Thanks, and keep up the good work. I bought all my Kerdi supplies after watching your video.
The shower pan and curb with Kerdi pre installed is nice. The way Steve had to run the plumbing for the drain was a little different. Great video, well explained.
thanks, the new shower pans have Kerdi pre-installed which is super nice. Same goes with Schluter's new curbs, no more wrapping the curb with Kerdi membrane
Ive had to go thru ducts and never had a problem
You guys inspire me to redo my own bathroom in the future.. many thanks 👍🏻
Taking on a new tub to shower replacement and this video answered so many questions about using the Schluter System Kerdi kit that many other video's I have watched, failed to do. Great job. Thank you.
Well... my night's complete now. Oh, and tomorrow I'm starting a Bathroom remodeling business because I have ALL the info step by step to succeed!!! Another fantastic video guys. Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!
Lol, thanks man.
Very easy to understand and learn from the video. Thank you.
this was so helptful! we are currently gutting a shower because we saw that the baseboard trim was warped, and we start pulling stuff off and mold, mold, mold.......so the shower is being gutted, the ugly tile has to come off the floor of the main part of the bathroom and the subfloor has to be pulled up too....ugh.....I love the kerdi products..they make life so much easier...cuz I don't have 10-15k to pay someone, but I will pay for a plumber to make sure the drain is right. Thank God nothing leaked to the ceiling on the main floor, the shower we are gutting is on the 2nd floor. but we need to check the joists for mold and spray the hell out of them with mold killer just in case. This is a tiny shower so working in cramped quarters should be fun.....lol. I've seen other videos that say to use unmodified thinset for the membrane, but Shluter makes modified and unmodified and the bag of modified thinset says it's for used with all Kerdi membrane products.......so which is best. From what I read the modified is a newer and better product.
I have read that penny tile is an issue for some people on the foam pans since the point loads are so small and it can compress them into it and anything under 2 inches is not recommended. However, I've heard others say it's fine, or to use an epoxy grout to make sure they stay put and become more of a monolithic piece. Thank you for the video!
True, do not use penny tile on a foam pan. The heal of a heavy person is enough pressure to fracture the grout, including epoxy. 2 inches is not only recommended but I believe it's spelled out in the warrantee, but I may be wrong about that.
@@tedspens you are definitely correct
Thanks for the video. Lots of great info.
Want to eliminate notching the curb?
I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
This is an excellent video! I demo my master bath in two days and will be converting a fiberglass tub surround to a walk-in shower using the Kerdi system. This video will be referenced a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Love all your other vids too.
Norm Borger how did your bathroom turn out? I did demo my master last night and am converting to a shower using Kerdi
upoliaghi , came out pretty sweet. I had the glass splash screen in last week, all fixtures are in place. All in all pretty nice if I say so myself. Thanks for asking. Good luck with yours.
Wow, you guys did a great job. Really liked the video. 👍👍💚. Can't wait to get this product and have my wife pick out some tile.
Schluter and wedi make solid 2” board with the membrane on both sides. I use this to make my own curbs. Complete flexibility in size. I usually double the board up and cut to desired height.
Great video thanks for posting.
I did want to ask why people are installing the pan right on the OSB?
Why not put down some cement board to not only solidify the base, but to "save" the OSB in case you ever have to tear up the shower....
A piece of Hardie-backer that size is $12... I'm doing that on my install... ;)
Fantastic job guys!
Great videos man. Feel like I could have taken a whole different career direction had such videos been available back in the day (pre internets). Alas, I only do occasional bathroom remodels for friends and family, but with professional results.
Thanks good video, why not put walls on top of pan or drape fabric onto pan?
Very helpful videos, always nice to see the whole process. Btw, hate to be the guy who has to replace the floor tile once he realizes the curb is on top of the tile
Very informative videos, thank you guys. Is the thinset optional, tbe product manual states : Schluter®-KERDI-SHOWER-T/-TS/-TT
are sloped shower trays with integrated KERDI
waterproofing. The trays are made of lightweight,
expanded polystyrene for constructing mortar-
free shower bases.
Such great stuff from you guys. To take the time to video your process is extremely generous. Keep up the good work. Love the videos. Consummate professionals.
Agreed! This is very clear and very helpful! Thank you!!
Great instructions! Thank you.
I always wonder why they roll out the membrane sheets vertically instead of horizontally.
I’d think having a horizontal seam with a roof tile overlap would be much more waterproof than an equivalent seam running vertically 🤔
Thanks again for this great and informative video! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular? I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!
great video!! but at the end you showed us how the drain is adjustable by pushing down to be flush with the final thin set penny tile!! but you just put thin set under it!! when that thin set dries how will it push down?? am I missing something??
Thanks for the great tips!
I have installed my walls (Kerdi board) but haven’t taped yet. I now think I’d feel better if I trim the wall bottoms to accept the pan after thin set, cut the pan to fit stud to stud, remove the pan and tape the walls, install the pan, Kerdi fix where the walls meet the pan and curbs, tape the pan and curbs (my kit uses membrane on the pan and curbs). Would you talk me out of this? If yes, why?
If you watch the Kerdi site you can do it either way the banding is water proofing so it doesn’t matter. Your just cost yourself time and aggravation.
Great Vid. I'd like to cut the width and Height of the curb so it's not so bulky. Any video on this. I have a pony wall the curb butts into. I don't want the finished tile outside the Drywalled pony wall.
All good until I saw the penny round floor tile at the very end. If I recall, they specifically tell you not to lay penny tile or other small format on a Kerdi pan.
They say not to put the kurdi band all the way into the corner. You should leave a 2 inch gap from the corner or you will have an excessive buildup in the corners with all the different layers.
Wish this dude was close to me.... I'd have him do my bathroom.
You’re videos are really informative 👍🏻
I like your video only that I consider is curb that you set on old floor tile. What can happening if somebody demo that tile ?
Nice job on this vid! Thank you. Q: is dry/cure time required between _any_ of these steps?
Can I place the shower pan first before the wall board?
I just had to pull off all my kerdi band and corner fleeces after seeing air bubbles when semi dried. I was so worried about buildup that i squeezed out all my cement. Nerve racking
You guys are great..thank you !!
Thanks so much and great videos. Just wonder if it's better to thinset bottom corners before the wall membrane? Seems to me it's more logical and have way less chance to have water get through the joint, since this way, water will always flow over the joint rather than into the joint
You mentioned that if you don’t have access to the underside of the drain, and will have to connect the drain first, that you have to attach the material before you lay in the pan. But how will the pan go over the drain? Isn’t the opening smaller than the drain?
Thanks gor the great content! What are your thoughts on using schluter shower tray with a liquid waterproofing membrane on the cement board for the walls?
Your videos are amazing, Thank you so much for all the hard work!
I'm installing my first shcluter shower pan/curb for my construction company up here in Boone NC. I ran into the same issues such as cutting out part of the bottom of the curb to allow for the existing tile. Your video has been very helpful. Question I have is does it matter if you install backer board after the pan to come down on the pan and of course tape and seal everything the same way shcluter recommends?
The board can be installed before or after the pan
Great video and really helpful. Just a question on the Kerdi curb installation. Why did Steve leave a gap between the tray and bathroom tile so he would make those custom cuts on the curb at 18:30? Could he not have made the tray flush with the tile and then rested the curb on top where they both (tile and tray) meet?
Sayfee Yousef
He would have needed to notch the curb anyway. A typical pan slope is around 1/4” per foot. A 2” gap would have been around less than 1/16” added towards the tile. The difference in height in the tile and pan was 1”, so if the pan was cut flash with the tile the difference would have been 15/16” still needing to be notched.
Want to eliminate notching the curb?
I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
I,m an expert now! Very detailed and well explained video, thanks!
This video is better than Schluters
Thank you so much for posting this, but I have a question… does the system has pre set drop or angle for the water to run to the drain? I didn’t see this done!
Nice work
nice work! but why not vacuum out that duct before gluing in your patch?
A Japanes pull saw makes cutting the curb extremely easy.
Hi I love your videos and I have learned so much from them, thank you. I m planning to remodel my old bathroom that has a tub, I want to remove the tub and install a shower. I want to use pre sloped pan so I can tile right over it. I m a new DIYer so I don’t feel comfortable with the base. Now I am confused between three products- KBRS, Kerdi Board and Wedi system. Since you have used all three can you recommend which one would be cost effective and easy to work with that has better water proof for a long time. Please please help me with this I really appreciate it
sorry we missed your question, Schluter is very user friendly and can be affordable compared to other options. KBRS's Tile-Basin is the easiest to install but you'll need to fur out the walls. That can be inconvenient. Wedi is also very straight forward but carries a high price tag. Let us know if you still need help and we'd be happy to assist.
I always install the base first so the base is crystal clean ! …. And the walls secure the perimeter base ..
Wouldn’t it be better to install the pan first, then pit the Kerdi on the walls? Seems like that would be much better for water runoff.
Great job guys
Couple questions: The Schuter pan is pre-sloped to the drain, correct? Can you post the exact shower kit system you’re using? The Schuter site seems to indicate the drain and flange are not part of the kit. Also, if you are doing a very small shower stall, you’d still buy this larger kit and cut it down (possibly in half)?
yes, pre-sloped to drain at all four corners. We used the KERDI-SHOWER-T 38" x 60" shower tray and got the ABS drain separately. Schluter also makes the KERDI-SHOWER-TT (Thin Tray) in smaller sizes, those might be a good option for you if you're okay with the center drain - let us know if you have any questions though, happy to help.
At 33:14 Steve demonstrates how the strainer can be adjusted after the tile is installed. But the at 34:11 he puts thinset under the corners of the strainer bottom. How does this allow adjustment?
Love it, guys. Thank you!
great video. couple of questions. did you do all the kerdi band, shower tray, and curb with just a half a bag of all set. also how did you ties in the existing wall on the right to the kerdi of the shower wall. thanks
Can you cut the curb down in height? Thanks
Can u use red guard on all the seams and corners ?
How does this system ensure water is flowing toward the drain?
What about build up in the corners with the band overlap. Since you are installing their corners why the over lap at corners? I know Kerdi does not want the liner lapped when installing the kerti band. The band is thinner and reduces build up.
I thought I heard somewhere that when you use the full Schluter Kerdi board system, it is not a good idea to use 2" or greater tile for the floor. Please advise
the minimum tile size is 2 inches on Kerdi tray/pan / floor.
I thought it's recommended to have the walls on top of the pan too prevent leakage, that would develop mold behind the Kirby tall.
As long as the corners are properly seemed and sealed with kerdi band it doesn’t matter whether the walls are on top of, or adjacent to the pan. It will be water proof either way. Schluter’s instructional video for their pan show the walls up first and adjacent to the pan.
Yes, youre right. This install is really increasing the chance of a leak. Did anyone check to see that this cloth is truly waterproof?
@@scottspooner6070 It is NOT increasing the chance of a leak. It gets KERDI BAND, either way, along with preformed corners (typically come with a drain kit, or available seperately). As for checking to see if the fabric is "truly waterproof"? You are kidding, right?
@@CoyoteConstruction1 Not kidding at all. If it was as fool proof as you think there wouldn't be all these videos of failures. Homeowners want shower systems that don't fail period. Many installers leave the homeowners with a damaged home that ends up costing them a fortune. The KBRS system while expensive works. Do you guarantee your installation against leaks for 10 years?
Can the shower pan corners and Kerdi Band be put in first over the pan before the wall membrane is hung so the membrane overlaps the corners and banding? Does it make any difference? My thinking is that it would be best to shed water over and not behind the corners and Kerdi Band. Thanks.
Is just the thinset enough to hold that curb in?... seems like itvwould be flimsy if you step on it getting in shower?... also can you use glass shower doors /sliding type with Kerdi.. stop? Thx
Did you do a water test? I do a water test for 24 hrs. Then dry fit tiles and when ready to tile THEN set the grate in thinset so can adjust for height to tile while still wet? Just curious why grate was set prior or if you do not need to do a water test and can tile right away?
this was great- thanks
Isnt it better to install the floor first so the backer boards aren't inside the pan?
Did I miss it or did you check the 32x47 area for level before putting in your preformed sloped pan?
Interested in the Kerdi system, only concerned about weight limit. Any ideas on weight limit. System will be installed over 3/4" plywood.
is it ideal to put the walls up before installing the kerdi floor?
is it best to have the main floor tile done before the shower curb? or if you were re-tiling the whole room would it be best to bond the curb to new ditra?
great video! i'm using the schluter shower pan and wrap.i'm building a bench seat also,so i was wondering if i put that purple wall board on the plywood before the wrap? thanks.
Why use Kerdi band around the bottom at the pan? I just let the wall membrane come down 2-3 in and overlap onto the pan and seal with mortar. Same ???
Can you install part of the kerdi curb overtop of the kerdi shower tray instead of directly on the plywood? So half on the kerdi shower tray, and the other half overlapping the tile?
I did this, no problem
Could I suggest an olfa knife....great shower pan tutorial though👍
Thanks for your videos! They are very informative and helpful. If the shower area is out of level how would you go about leveling? Would you place the curb first (leveled with extra thin-set) and then use that as a dam to level the shower floor? Would you use self leveler if so, do you have a recommendation that's available at big box stores? Thanks!!
You've probably got past this point but that's what I would do if using a pre sloped pan. If not you have to pack a mud bed which is a little harder. If you use self leveler make for sure it has no where to leak. At all because it will find a way
I see that you overlapped the corner floor piece with the other pieces...but I watched a video by Schluter systems and they butted the pieces up against the inside corner pieces and did not overlap it. Wouldn’t the way you did form too much build up of materials and affect tiles by creating a bump?
We are wondering the same thing!
Good afternoon I also have recently put in a Schluter shower pan but I cut a piece on the side because I was an inch off Centre and added it to the other side. If I use tape 2 inch kerdi tape and thin set Will this fix the problem to the shower pad? I may need to send you a picture to explain.
is the curb good for glass shower doors
Question, I have a seam where two pieces of my 3/4” Plywood Subfloor meet that will be underneath the Schluter Pan. Do I need to pull them back up to add short sections of 2x4 or 2x8 between each Joist Space along that Plywood Seam? Or would any deflection up and down along that seam not be a big deal since it’s Under my pan and wouldn’t transfer to my tile on top of the pan? Thanks.
Since it’s been 2 months you’ve probably addressed this. But for others, if you step on it and there’s any deflection then yes it needs reinforcement. These preformed pans are nice but their not structural at all and need a solid base.
Schluter claimed that they will warranty their products if exterior Plywood is used not Particle board. Please explain of you using particle board in this video
I don't get it. Why did you install the pan last? All I see is a possible leak between the pan and the walls. I would've installed the pan first than the walls on top on the pan, that way even if those joint fail, it wouldn't matter as much. Maybe I'm wrong.
I always fit the pan first
Could you use larger tiles with this set up? Using the pre pitched tray and the curb? Ive only seen it done with curbless
Does the shluter pan come with a pitch? looks like the same thickness in center and ends
good question, yes, it's pitched and pre-sloped
Did you drop the drain in without gluing it?
Your website says Pittsburgh, but I'm hearing Philly accent or South Jersey, no?
My drain sits more then an inch above the Kerdi pan. Can I use plywood to build up the floor under the pan?
You can cut it to make it shorter.
lower the drain
Looks like you have 3 layers thick of Kerri Band at the corners. Please advise.
At 33:12 he says that once the tile is in, you press the strainer down to the level of the tile. At 34:08, he put thin-set on the corners of the strainer. When tiling, if a final adjustment needs to be made, wouldn't the tin-set make it impossible to make that adjustment to the strainer? I'm confused.
yes, you're absolutely correct. In this shower we tiled right after setting the shower tray. Little risky if you need to flood test. Since we set the strainer and tiled afterward we still had time to adjust the height. Sorry for the confusion.
That for the quickest reply I’ve ever received. So if setting the tile a couple of days later, you could put the thin-set on the strainer then I assume. Love your videos, by the way.
@@woodmeister14467 lol, was sitting at the computer when you sent your question. Yes, flood test, allow the pan to dry, and set your strainer and tile at the same time. Tile should be slightly higher than the strainer to allow for proper drainage and avoid puddling. Roughly 1/32" above the strainer is all you need.
Honestly you need painted on membrane to go over everything, this system fails at the flange, drain and curb corners if water pools due to spot tiling.
Is the pan sloped toward the drain?
Oh yeah
When did you do the water test? That seems like a really important step.
you should flood test 24 hours after setting and waterproofing the shower
Very helpful 👌🏽