Schluter Shower Part 2: Schluter Shower Pan and Curb Installation
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- This video shares how to do the Schluter shower pan and Schluter curb installation. We cover a lot of important details. And you'll see step-by-step how to waterproof the entire Schluter shower.
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The first step was to cut out the old shower drain and center the new Schluter drain. This requires additional support underneath the 3/4" OSB. Keep in mind, the only thing being replaced in this bathroom was the shower.
Once the shower drain was positioned we added new 3/4" OSB over the new framing. Then the Schluter shower pan was cut to size, i.e. 32" x 47".
Both the Schluter shower pan and curb we set using ALL-SET mortar and waterproofed using four inside corners (Kerdi), Kerdi-Band at every wall/curb transition, and two outside corners (Kerdi).
Watch the video to see how to install the Schluter shower pan and curb
#schlutershowerpan #homerepairtutor - Навчання та стиль
Re-Modeling my master bathroom here right now as a DIY´er. I use the Schlüter System. I am watching you guys and the Tile Coach. Both of you give me great insights into all this! Me, doing this the first time, I take my time. I can only mix one pound of Schlüter All-Set at a time when I install the Kerdy bands. Otherwise it would set up on me, HA! It takes me so much time to put it all in place and make sure it turns out right! Thank you for your tutorials!
You literally are me lol. Bout to do my master bath and also using these guys a Tile Coach lol
Same here. These guys all provide fantastic advice and techniques. I too am going slow as this is my first master bath gut rehab. Thank you!!!
Yyh
Great explanation as usual boys, I am getting older now and don't use mortar beds anymore, they are a lot of work and demand a lot of heavy lifting to install. I only use the Schluter pans now, simple and proven!!
thank you, these new pans are nice because the fleece is already pre-installed. One less step, same with the curb. Mortar is still good but like you said, getting older makes them a bit more challenging
So some of the pans come with preslope, others don't. Do they not need a preslope prior to installation. I need the pan 38x60 with the offset drain 10 inches from the short side. But it doesn't have a preslope. The pans with the drain in the middle have preslope
Do you use all that crap on the wall. I like the pans. Though, they make WaterproofFiber board that weighs only 2.5 pounds a sheet, That wall system is allot of work. And Money. The Fiber board is 1/2" screw right into the studs. Tape or caulk the seams.
Nice to see a real world video of an installation like this. The ones where the film it with a perfect-situation mock-up don’t relate to the real world.
I never knew it was so much work in making a tile shower. Incredible.
I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" tile size minimum does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content.
Great videos, guys, thank you!
I think they require you put down a coat of mud and let it dry first for penny tile. If the compression strenth is 57 pounds per square inch, you can easily exceed that with penny tile.
Very good narrating..clearly spoken and always using proper words to describe what's going on. Good voice for it!
I want to give both of you kudos on your knowledge and expertise on shower installs. You both explain all phases of shower installation to a tee, you even give advice on different circumstances. I watch a lot of UA-cam videos for repair and installation, you 2 are the best. I have never performed a shower install, but by the way you explain it, I feel that I have! Thanks, and keep up the good work. I bought all my Kerdi supplies after watching your video.
First, thank you for all of the great content! I recently installed my first full schluter system for a shower. I opted not to pour self-leveler after talking to a friend and tile contractor who felt the floor was plenty level. Back story, I should have seen the red flag that the contractor had never installed over pre-sloped shower pan (always does mud jobs). I did however check for plumb in the shower area and looked good. After installed the pan, I checked again for plumb and was looking good. After the tile was installed the plumber returned to install the fittings and notices a "high" plateau spot in the pan that caused standing water. 60% of the pan drains yet this one spot does not, which the contractor told me I must have installed the pan incorrectly. We did select a 2" hex ... not sure if that was a bad option for the pre-sloped pans or not. My main question is if anyone has ever run into this issue and the best way to fix. From what I can tell, it would be to tile overtop of the other tile and fix the slope issue. My fear or removing the old tile would be to ruin the pan and impact the membrane. Thoughts? Thanks again!
i also kerdi fix the the gap between the walls and pan before i run the band, love these videos
The shower pan and curb with Kerdi pre installed is nice. The way Steve had to run the plumbing for the drain was a little different. Great video, well explained.
thanks, the new shower pans have Kerdi pre-installed which is super nice. Same goes with Schluter's new curbs, no more wrapping the curb with Kerdi membrane
Ive had to go thru ducts and never had a problem
Well... my night's complete now. Oh, and tomorrow I'm starting a Bathroom remodeling business because I have ALL the info step by step to succeed!!! Another fantastic video guys. Hope all is well, and Dirty Jersey out!!!
Lol, thanks man.
Taking on a new tub to shower replacement and this video answered so many questions about using the Schluter System Kerdi kit that many other video's I have watched, failed to do. Great job. Thank you.
You guys inspire me to redo my own bathroom in the future.. many thanks 👍🏻
Schluter and wedi make solid 2” board with the membrane on both sides. I use this to make my own curbs. Complete flexibility in size. I usually double the board up and cut to desired height.
I have read that penny tile is an issue for some people on the foam pans since the point loads are so small and it can compress them into it and anything under 2 inches is not recommended. However, I've heard others say it's fine, or to use an epoxy grout to make sure they stay put and become more of a monolithic piece. Thank you for the video!
True, do not use penny tile on a foam pan. The heal of a heavy person is enough pressure to fracture the grout, including epoxy. 2 inches is not only recommended but I believe it's spelled out in the warrantee, but I may be wrong about that.
@@tedspens you are definitely correct
Thanks for the video. Lots of great info.
Want to eliminate notching the curb?
I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
this was so helptful! we are currently gutting a shower because we saw that the baseboard trim was warped, and we start pulling stuff off and mold, mold, mold.......so the shower is being gutted, the ugly tile has to come off the floor of the main part of the bathroom and the subfloor has to be pulled up too....ugh.....I love the kerdi products..they make life so much easier...cuz I don't have 10-15k to pay someone, but I will pay for a plumber to make sure the drain is right. Thank God nothing leaked to the ceiling on the main floor, the shower we are gutting is on the 2nd floor. but we need to check the joists for mold and spray the hell out of them with mold killer just in case. This is a tiny shower so working in cramped quarters should be fun.....lol. I've seen other videos that say to use unmodified thinset for the membrane, but Shluter makes modified and unmodified and the bag of modified thinset says it's for used with all Kerdi membrane products.......so which is best. From what I read the modified is a newer and better product.
This is an excellent video! I demo my master bath in two days and will be converting a fiberglass tub surround to a walk-in shower using the Kerdi system. This video will be referenced a lot. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Love all your other vids too.
Norm Borger how did your bathroom turn out? I did demo my master last night and am converting to a shower using Kerdi
upoliaghi , came out pretty sweet. I had the glass splash screen in last week, all fixtures are in place. All in all pretty nice if I say so myself. Thanks for asking. Good luck with yours.
Very helpful videos, always nice to see the whole process. Btw, hate to be the guy who has to replace the floor tile once he realizes the curb is on top of the tile
Such great stuff from you guys. To take the time to video your process is extremely generous. Keep up the good work. Love the videos. Consummate professionals.
Agreed! This is very clear and very helpful! Thank you!!
Wow, you guys did a great job. Really liked the video. 👍👍💚. Can't wait to get this product and have my wife pick out some tile.
They say not to put the kurdi band all the way into the corner. You should leave a 2 inch gap from the corner or you will have an excessive buildup in the corners with all the different layers.
Your videos are amazing, Thank you so much for all the hard work!
Great videos man. Feel like I could have taken a whole different career direction had such videos been available back in the day (pre internets). Alas, I only do occasional bathroom remodels for friends and family, but with professional results.
I always wonder why they roll out the membrane sheets vertically instead of horizontally.
I’d think having a horizontal seam with a roof tile overlap would be much more waterproof than an equivalent seam running vertically 🤔
I always install the base first so the base is crystal clean ! …. And the walls secure the perimeter base ..
Great instructions! Thank you.
Fantastic job guys!
You’re videos are really informative 👍🏻
All good until I saw the penny round floor tile at the very end. If I recall, they specifically tell you not to lay penny tile or other small format on a Kerdi pan.
Very informative videos, thank you guys. Is the thinset optional, tbe product manual states : Schluter®-KERDI-SHOWER-T/-TS/-TT
are sloped shower trays with integrated KERDI
waterproofing. The trays are made of lightweight,
expanded polystyrene for constructing mortar-
free shower bases.
This video is better than Schluters
I’ve seen where you don’t overlap in corners but just run the band up to them.
You need at least two inches of overlap with banding and preformed KERDI-KERECK to make a Schluter shower waterproof
Thanks for the great tips!
Thanks good video, why not put walls on top of pan or drape fabric onto pan?
Wish this dude was close to me.... I'd have him do my bathroom.
You guys are great..thank you !!
I have installed my walls (Kerdi board) but haven’t taped yet. I now think I’d feel better if I trim the wall bottoms to accept the pan after thin set, cut the pan to fit stud to stud, remove the pan and tape the walls, install the pan, Kerdi fix where the walls meet the pan and curbs, tape the pan and curbs (my kit uses membrane on the pan and curbs). Would you talk me out of this? If yes, why?
If you watch the Kerdi site you can do it either way the banding is water proofing so it doesn’t matter. Your just cost yourself time and aggravation.
Thanks so much and great videos. Just wonder if it's better to thinset bottom corners before the wall membrane? Seems to me it's more logical and have way less chance to have water get through the joint, since this way, water will always flow over the joint rather than into the joint
Thanks again for this great and informative video! Before I install my Schluter shower tray, I'd need to replace a 40"x36' rotten subfloor. Does it matter if the grain of the plywood is parallel to the joists as opposed to perpendicular? I thought since plywood is cross laminated and each layer is of different direction and this is just a small area, it should not matter much. Please advise, Thx!
I,m an expert now! Very detailed and well explained video, thanks!
great video!! but at the end you showed us how the drain is adjustable by pushing down to be flush with the final thin set penny tile!! but you just put thin set under it!! when that thin set dries how will it push down?? am I missing something??
I just had to pull off all my kerdi band and corner fleeces after seeing air bubbles when semi dried. I was so worried about buildup that i squeezed out all my cement. Nerve racking
Nice work
Thanks!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Great job guys
Wouldn’t it be better to install the pan first, then pit the Kerdi on the walls? Seems like that would be much better for water runoff.
Is the pan sloped toward the drain?
Love it, guys. Thank you!
this was great- thanks
Very helpful 👌🏽
Great Vid. I'd like to cut the width and Height of the curb so it's not so bulky. Any video on this. I have a pony wall the curb butts into. I don't want the finished tile outside the Drywalled pony wall.
I don't get it. Why did you install the pan last? All I see is a possible leak between the pan and the walls. I would've installed the pan first than the walls on top on the pan, that way even if those joint fail, it wouldn't matter as much. Maybe I'm wrong.
I always fit the pan first
At 33:14 Steve demonstrates how the strainer can be adjusted after the tile is installed. But the at 34:11 he puts thinset under the corners of the strainer bottom. How does this allow adjustment?
I like the bloody hand. Reality!
Nice job on this vid! Thank you. Q: is dry/cure time required between _any_ of these steps?
Deviste cortar la seramica y no debilitar la base esa quedó muy débil
I thought it's recommended to have the walls on top of the pan too prevent leakage, that would develop mold behind the Kirby tall.
As long as the corners are properly seemed and sealed with kerdi band it doesn’t matter whether the walls are on top of, or adjacent to the pan. It will be water proof either way. Schluter’s instructional video for their pan show the walls up first and adjacent to the pan.
Yes, youre right. This install is really increasing the chance of a leak. Did anyone check to see that this cloth is truly waterproof?
@@scottspooner6070 It is NOT increasing the chance of a leak. It gets KERDI BAND, either way, along with preformed corners (typically come with a drain kit, or available seperately). As for checking to see if the fabric is "truly waterproof"? You are kidding, right?
@@CoyoteConstruction1 Not kidding at all. If it was as fool proof as you think there wouldn't be all these videos of failures. Homeowners want shower systems that don't fail period. Many installers leave the homeowners with a damaged home that ends up costing them a fortune. The KBRS system while expensive works. Do you guarantee your installation against leaks for 10 years?
Isnt it better to install the floor first so the backer boards aren't inside the pan?
i back butter my pan also before i install it
What about build up in the corners with the band overlap. Since you are installing their corners why the over lap at corners? I know Kerdi does not want the liner lapped when installing the kerti band. The band is thinner and reduces build up.
Sorry but I like the old school
I personally do also but I am actually using this on current job. I've used the wall board but never the floor.i will enjoy the pre-sloped floor.
You mentioned that if you don’t have access to the underside of the drain, and will have to connect the drain first, that you have to attach the material before you lay in the pan. But how will the pan go over the drain? Isn’t the opening smaller than the drain?
How does this system ensure water is flowing toward the drain?
why would you not set the pan to the rock , put the five inch roll from pan to rock , then over lap the roll with the mesh thus creating positive overlapping rather than a seam that would eventually leak into the framing
The band on the right side wasn’t installed properly, I can see it wasn’t 2.5 inches from each side
If he did the floor pan before the walls he wouldn't have needed to trim it. And if he cut pan properly to compensate for curb, curb would not have needed to be notched. This installation is supposed to be quicker, but in Florida, cement board, shower membrane liner and pan mudset is just as quick and much higher quality. Not sure why people like foam as a substrate for tile. If you don't like cement board, use densboard which is used in place of plywood sheeting on commercial buildings. Only reason I see contractors using this is because it carries some sort of lifetime warranty.
Interesting points made.
I'm installing my first shcluter shower pan/curb for my construction company up here in Boone NC. I ran into the same issues such as cutting out part of the bottom of the curb to allow for the existing tile. Your video has been very helpful. Question I have is does it matter if you install backer board after the pan to come down on the pan and of course tape and seal everything the same way shcluter recommends?
The board can be installed before or after the pan
I like your video only that I consider is curb that you set on old floor tile. What can happening if somebody demo that tile ?
Can the shower pan corners and Kerdi Band be put in first over the pan before the wall membrane is hung so the membrane overlaps the corners and banding? Does it make any difference? My thinking is that it would be best to shed water over and not behind the corners and Kerdi Band. Thanks.
I see that you overlapped the corner floor piece with the other pieces...but I watched a video by Schluter systems and they butted the pieces up against the inside corner pieces and did not overlap it. Wouldn’t the way you did form too much build up of materials and affect tiles by creating a bump?
We are wondering the same thing!
Great video and really helpful. Just a question on the Kerdi curb installation. Why did Steve leave a gap between the tray and bathroom tile so he would make those custom cuts on the curb at 18:30? Could he not have made the tray flush with the tile and then rested the curb on top where they both (tile and tray) meet?
Sayfee Yousef
He would have needed to notch the curb anyway. A typical pan slope is around 1/4” per foot. A 2” gap would have been around less than 1/16” added towards the tile. The difference in height in the tile and pan was 1”, so if the pan was cut flash with the tile the difference would have been 15/16” still needing to be notched.
Want to eliminate notching the curb?
I wouldn’t recommend putting the curb on existing tile. Existing tile floor will need to be replaced before the shower tile. With the existing tile pinned underneath the curb tile you risk breaking the curb tile when it’s time to replace the floor tile. I would suggest cutting the existing tile with a diamond blade on an angle grinder as close to the walls as possible. Dremel makes a 2” diamond wheel blade so you can use that to cut up to the wall. It’s ok if your cuts aren’t perfect. The new curb tile will hang down covering the cut tile. Looking down you won’t notice after you caulk that transition.
Wouldn’t it make more sense to install the shower base before the walls?
Question, I have a seam where two pieces of my 3/4” Plywood Subfloor meet that will be underneath the Schluter Pan. Do I need to pull them back up to add short sections of 2x4 or 2x8 between each Joist Space along that Plywood Seam? Or would any deflection up and down along that seam not be a big deal since it’s Under my pan and wouldn’t transfer to my tile on top of the pan? Thanks.
Since it’s been 2 months you’ve probably addressed this. But for others, if you step on it and there’s any deflection then yes it needs reinforcement. These preformed pans are nice but their not structural at all and need a solid base.
Can you cut the curb down in height? Thanks
I thought I heard somewhere that when you use the full Schluter Kerdi board system, it is not a good idea to use 2" or greater tile for the floor. Please advise
the minimum tile size is 2 inches on Kerdi tray/pan / floor.
Thank you so much for posting this, but I have a question… does the system has pre set drop or angle for the water to run to the drain? I didn’t see this done!
At 33:12 he says that once the tile is in, you press the strainer down to the level of the tile. At 34:08, he put thin-set on the corners of the strainer. When tiling, if a final adjustment needs to be made, wouldn't the tin-set make it impossible to make that adjustment to the strainer? I'm confused.
yes, you're absolutely correct. In this shower we tiled right after setting the shower tray. Little risky if you need to flood test. Since we set the strainer and tiled afterward we still had time to adjust the height. Sorry for the confusion.
That for the quickest reply I’ve ever received. So if setting the tile a couple of days later, you could put the thin-set on the strainer then I assume. Love your videos, by the way.
@@woodmeister14467 lol, was sitting at the computer when you sent your question. Yes, flood test, allow the pan to dry, and set your strainer and tile at the same time. Tile should be slightly higher than the strainer to allow for proper drainage and avoid puddling. Roughly 1/32" above the strainer is all you need.
Honestly you need painted on membrane to go over everything, this system fails at the flange, drain and curb corners if water pools due to spot tiling.
Hi I love your videos and I have learned so much from them, thank you. I m planning to remodel my old bathroom that has a tub, I want to remove the tub and install a shower. I want to use pre sloped pan so I can tile right over it. I m a new DIYer so I don’t feel comfortable with the base. Now I am confused between three products- KBRS, Kerdi Board and Wedi system. Since you have used all three can you recommend which one would be cost effective and easy to work with that has better water proof for a long time. Please please help me with this I really appreciate it
sorry we missed your question, Schluter is very user friendly and can be affordable compared to other options. KBRS's Tile-Basin is the easiest to install but you'll need to fur out the walls. That can be inconvenient. Wedi is also very straight forward but carries a high price tag. Let us know if you still need help and we'd be happy to assist.
Styrofoam showers? What's next? Plastic car engines and snap together plumbing. Oh, we already have those.
Couple questions: The Schuter pan is pre-sloped to the drain, correct? Can you post the exact shower kit system you’re using? The Schuter site seems to indicate the drain and flange are not part of the kit. Also, if you are doing a very small shower stall, you’d still buy this larger kit and cut it down (possibly in half)?
yes, pre-sloped to drain at all four corners. We used the KERDI-SHOWER-T 38" x 60" shower tray and got the ABS drain separately. Schluter also makes the KERDI-SHOWER-TT (Thin Tray) in smaller sizes, those might be a good option for you if you're okay with the center drain - let us know if you have any questions though, happy to help.
Thanks gor the great content! What are your thoughts on using schluter shower tray with a liquid waterproofing membrane on the cement board for the walls?
Schluter claimed that they will warranty their products if exterior Plywood is used not Particle board. Please explain of you using particle board in this video
I noticed no paint on waterproofing. I NEVER install these units without it after seeing the Tile Coach on here show how schluter fails often without it.
Can you explain what you mean? You paint over the membrane? What type of paint should be used?
Why use Kerdi band around the bottom at the pan? I just let the wall membrane come down 2-3 in and overlap onto the pan and seal with mortar. Same ???
great video. couple of questions. did you do all the kerdi band, shower tray, and curb with just a half a bag of all set. also how did you ties in the existing wall on the right to the kerdi of the shower wall. thanks
nice work! but why not vacuum out that duct before gluing in your patch?
20:45 why Cut the curb to lay on top of the tile instead of just cutting the kerdi pan so the curb fit in there perfectly
Because if you cut the pan, the curb wouldn't be flush with the wall of the shower.
@@tgtcat6 that’s not what I meant , the curb is sitting on one side on the tile the other side is sitting on the pan, why? Why not just cut the pan a little more so that whole curb sits in that crack the tile would be flush against the curb and the pan would be flush to it on the other side
What if I have a gap on the walls around the pan
It looks like the floor should go in first, then the walls
Always wall first
I thought you weren't supposed to use tiles smaller than 2"x2" on the foam. The penny tile is much smaller than that.
Agreed. You can't use smaller than 2X2" tiles on the kerdi foam floors. I was hoping someone else would catch that.
I didn’t know that and used penny tiles on my Kerdi tray. All good two years later. I would put a step stool right on it though. Use extra board for protection.
I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" limit does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content.
I thought schulter does not recommend tiles less than 2" square as smaller tiles put too much point pressure on the foam pan (shorter life).
I know this is old, but posting comment for later viewers after checking both install guides. The 2"x2" limit does *not* apply to Schluter shower pans, but to Ditra products. Use penny tile to your heart's content.
Can you install part of the kerdi curb overtop of the kerdi shower tray instead of directly on the plywood? So half on the kerdi shower tray, and the other half overlapping the tile?
I did this, no problem
Hope you never want to replace that tile floor. If you do you, will probably need to replace the shower pan.
Don't your inside corners go on after the banding?
Is just the thinset enough to hold that curb in?... seems like itvwould be flimsy if you step on it getting in shower?... also can you use glass shower doors /sliding type with Kerdi.. stop? Thx
***********AT 13:58 on video, it looks like the shower drain is installed with the PVC drainpipe not with glue, and no twist for the glue bond?
My drain sits more then an inch above the Kerdi pan. Can I use plywood to build up the floor under the pan?
You can cut it to make it shorter.
lower the drain
Did I miss it or did you check the 32x47 area for level before putting in your preformed sloped pan?
They curb can fail because it sits on tile. Id suggest cutting the tile out.