Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in this tutorial! I have a couple of questions about drafting the basic bodice block: 1. Regarding the back and chest width: On your pattern, the space between these two is 12 cm, but on my pattern, I calculated a gap of only 5.6 cm. Is this correct? Here are my calculations: • Back width:  cm • Front width:  cm This gives me a gap of 5.6 cm between the back and chest widths. How is your gap so much larger (12 cm), while mine is less than half of that? 2. For the shoulder measurement: If the shoulder length is 10 cm and the back width is 34 cm, when I connect the shoulder line to the back width line, the shoulder line falls inside the back width line rather than aligning over it. As a result, the armhole shape looks off. How can I correct this to create a smoother and more balanced armhole for the back?
Hi, for some reason your measurements aren’t all showing on your comment. My first guess is that your total width from cb to cf is too small, or that your back and front are too big. If that’s not it, have you double checked the calculations? Where have you measured your shoulder from? it shouldn’t sit inside your back width point. I’d double check your bust, neck, chest and back width measurements first.
I just used this to make a pattern block for an 18” fashion doll. It fits the doll like a glove. I did have to scale down a few numbers but I am surprised how well it worked. Thank you for making the video, it is really helpful.
Hi Ali I love your easy way of explaining everything. I have struggled with blocks for ages. I have bought several systems and must say none of them were easy to follow. I do feel however like having another go with yours. Many thanks Carole 😊
Amazing, it’s great to hear that. If you have a go and get stuck please let me know and I’ll try to help! The great thing is, once you’ve got your block everything you make will be done much easier 😃
Hi, Yes you can do that. Have a look at my latest video for more details on fitting this, and how to move the darts. ua-cam.com/video/tpi8Ml-Ozdg/v-deo.htmlsi=HCoVbXrlKMwVgpvx
Morning Ali! So, I sewed it all up yesterday and it's still a little bit too tight, so I'm going to retrace the original and take your suggestions for adding a little at the sides and back. It's actually perfect fit but the front doesn't come together with room. I know it's all my fault. The back, shoulders etc is all good. ❤
HI Ali, so FINALLY I'm happy with the bodice block. I have faffed around to the point of obsession but now I think it's good. Now what to do with the darn thing is the question!!!
Hey Ali! Well done! 🎉❤ I think it's way easier to understand in this video. Nice to see the lines drawn darker too. Will give it a whirl and let you know. Glad you mentioned your website as I was going to ask you about that!
Oh brilliant, I don’t know why I thought the original way I did it would be easy! I got the settings right too this time so it’s better quality! I only did the website yesterday 😁 Let me know how you get on! Hopefully less frustrating for you this time!
Wonderful Ali, thank you. Just a query, at time point 18:38 where you've drawn in the 3 darts for waist shaping, you say to cut on those lines but I think you mean sew on those lines don't you?
I don't fully understand what is meant by put the back on folded fabric, I'm sorry! Does it mean that the side that has the center back and back dart should be cut on the opposite side of the fabric you cut the front side from? Or that the way you cut two of each side is by folding the fabric so you cut two at once? I'm confused 😕
if you fold the fabric in half you can lay the centre back on the fold of the fabric, so that piece is double layer and you open it up to one piece. Then put the front panel on 2 layers of fabric. I will make a video this week to explain the cutting out. Thanks for the feedback, any questions like this help me to know what people want to learn 😊
ive just made this bodice block from your instructions and somehow my bust area is 12 cm too narrow. goodness knows where i went wrong. the neck and waist are prfect. Im 68 and full busted and a bit of a belly. can you advise. ive looked at doing full bust adjustment to it but 12 cms divided by 2 is quite a big amount to adjust by.
hmm, I wonder where you went wrong. The first place I'd start is to measure your bust again, then lay your front and back pattern pieces side by side, and the total width should be just over half of your bust measurement. If it's not then my guess is you either wrote down your bust measurement incorrectly or just measured it wrong when drawing the block? Let me know how you get on with that?
@@creativebobbin42 just measure front and back as suggested and it measures 1 cm more than half my bust. really do not know what is happening here. the back fits perfectly it is just the front from top of bust to just above the waist.
@@Teresasblaze I wonder if you need to lower the bust point, and make the dart below the bust a bit narrower, if so you could take a bit more out of the waist at the side seam so the waist doesn’t get too big. If it’s too short from the armhole line to the front shoulder it could be pulling it up too, that’s worth looking at.
Thank you very much! that was very easy to follow. I have a question; I have a Japanese sewing pattern book that make you drew your own pattern using your bodice block. The problem is that the bodice they use is without any darts. What is this type of bodice called and where can I find it or purchase it? it or purchase it?
Oh good, I'm glad you could follow it, it's quite hard to explain! There are various fits for a bodice block, the one without darts might be for a looser fitting garment. What is it you want to buy?
@creativebobbin42 Yes, I need a tutorial for a bodice block without darts to use it to draw a pattern from a Japanese sewing book. All I can find is a bodice with darts, but the pattern I want to use is without darts. Dose this type of bodice have a specific name so I can search for it?
@@NoonSkyWings The one I'm demonstrating is a close fitting or tailored bodice block. If you want one without darts you could try looking up as easy fitting block, but most blocks have at least one dart on the bust. The Japanese book sounds quite specific, does it not suggest where to draft your block from? Is it a Kimono block maybe?
@@creativebobbin42 thank you but I got shocked of the postage prices to Hungary. I still have some pattern paper somewhere I will use that. And when my sister comes will ask her to bring some with her. I cannot seem to be able to buy much here.
Good Morning Ali, Made up the paper part of the pattern. I think it's measurements on my part and me measuring myself that is throwing things a bit off. Is it 'normal' to have 6 c.m. between back neck to waist and front neck to waist? My measurements strangely enough are very similar to yours. One thing I noticed is that you don't mention the measurement of the back neck as you go down horizontally, but I just went down 1.5 cm and drew a curve. Keep it up as I love your channel. It's very difficult for someone like me to get my head around all this as it's completely new but I'm determined.
I think I need to employ you as a consultant haha! No matter how many times I go over it I always miss something, yes 1.5cm on the back neck! It does seem quite a big difference front to back, I'd put a belt on and something with a seam in exactly the right place on the shoulder and get someone to help you measure. If in doubt, add a little bit to the back and take off the front and see how the fit is. The difference is down to how 'curvy' you are.
Thank you for this extremely informative tutorial. I am excited to have a bodice block. One spot I am stuck on - using your calculations (bust/waist x 6) my dart width comes out to 7.8" (19.8 cm)! That is a big honkin' dart! Is this actually the length? I tried another tutorial (ua-cam.com/video/M4Oh7JOhamI/v-deo.html) using the calculations (full bust - underbust / 4) my dart width comes out to 1.75". What am I doing wrong?
Hi, thank you. Ok so that's definitely not right! It is the width and is generally around 5-7cm. I'm not quite sure where you went wrong. If you give me your measurements I can calculate it for you. You can message me privately via my Facebook page if you'd prefer.
Thank you. It works on all body shapes, that’s the great thing about drafting with your own measurements instead of buying a pattern in ‘standard’ sizes.
Hi Ali, great tutorial. Youve explaibed it all really clearly! I always need to do FBAs, because I have a full bust. How would an FBA factor into a block like this, to add the extra width needed in the front?
Hi, thanks. You shouldn’t have to do any adjustments as you’ll be drafting it with your own measurements. The chest width measurement, and the front neck to waist measurement will be what make it the right size for your bust at the front. Just make sure you’re very accurate with measurements. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in this tutorial! I have a couple of questions about drafting the basic bodice block:
1. Regarding the back and chest width: On your pattern, the space between these two is 12 cm, but on my pattern, I calculated a gap of only 5.6 cm. Is this correct? Here are my calculations:
• Back width:  cm
• Front width:  cm
This gives me a gap of 5.6 cm between the back and chest widths. How is your gap so much larger (12 cm), while mine is less than half of that?
2. For the shoulder measurement: If the shoulder length is 10 cm and the back width is 34 cm, when I connect the shoulder line to the back width line, the shoulder line falls inside the back width line rather than aligning over it. As a result, the armhole shape looks off. How can I correct this to create a smoother and more balanced armhole for the back?
Hi, for some reason your measurements aren’t all showing on your comment.
My first guess is that your total width from cb to cf is too small, or that your back and front are too big.
If that’s not it, have you double checked the calculations?
Where have you measured your shoulder from? it shouldn’t sit inside your back width point.
I’d double check your bust, neck, chest and back width measurements first.
I just used this to make a pattern block for an 18” fashion doll. It fits the doll like a glove. I did have to scale down a few numbers but I am surprised how well it worked. Thank you for making the video, it is really helpful.
Oh amazing! That sounds fiddly!
It’s great to know it works even that small, thanks for letting me know 😊
Hi Ali I love your easy way of explaining everything. I have struggled with blocks for ages. I have bought several systems and must say none of them were easy to follow. I do feel however like having another go with yours. Many thanks Carole 😊
Amazing, it’s great to hear that. If you have a go and get stuck please let me know and I’ll try to help! The great thing is, once you’ve got your block everything you make will be done much easier 😃
Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorial. I finished my bodice block pattern. I'll sew it tomorrow and see if my math is correct. I'm so excited.
Oh well done, I’m sure it will be fine. Let me know how you get on 😊
New to all of this. Once you've fit this correctly, can you move the shoulder dart to the bust for the other traditional bodice style?
Hi, Yes you can do that. Have a look at my latest video for more details on fitting this, and how to move the darts. ua-cam.com/video/tpi8Ml-Ozdg/v-deo.htmlsi=HCoVbXrlKMwVgpvx
Morning Ali! So, I sewed it all up yesterday and it's still a little bit too tight, so I'm going to retrace the original and take your suggestions for adding a little at the sides and back. It's actually perfect fit but the front doesn't come together with room. I know it's all my fault. The back, shoulders etc is all good. ❤
HI Ali, so FINALLY I'm happy with the bodice block. I have faffed around to the point of obsession but now I think it's good. Now what to do with the darn thing is the question!!!
oh that’s a shame, I just assumed it was the kind of thing you could buy anywhere!
@@creativebobbin42 not sure what you mean.
@@kaymanuel7256oh, weird, that was a reply to someone else, not sure what happened there!!!
Hi Ali, Can you do a tutorial on how to add a black trim to the neckline of a dress please. Like the one you are wearing?
I certainly can, I'll add it to my list 🙂
@@creativebobbin42 thank you so much I love your videos. You make things sound really easy !
@@tangorhumba3777 Thank you 😀
Hey Ali! Well done! 🎉❤ I think it's way easier to understand in this video. Nice to see the lines drawn darker too. Will give it a whirl and let you know. Glad you mentioned your website as I was going to ask you about that!
Oh brilliant, I don’t know why I thought the original way I did it would be easy! I got the settings right too this time so it’s better quality!
I only did the website yesterday 😁
Let me know how you get on! Hopefully less frustrating for you this time!
Wonderful Ali, thank you. Just a query, at time point 18:38 where you've drawn in the 3 darts for waist shaping, you say to cut on those lines but I think you mean sew on those lines don't you?
I meant to cut the pattern pieces on those lines, and then yes, those are where you’ll sew, as the pattern doesn’t have a seam allowance.
I'm new to sewing, should we cut out two of each of the sides we made?
Yes, cut out 2 of each, put the back on folded fabric, then add a seam allowance on the front to pin it together.
I don't fully understand what is meant by put the back on folded fabric, I'm sorry! Does it mean that the side that has the center back and back dart should be cut on the opposite side of the fabric you cut the front side from? Or that the way you cut two of each side is by folding the fabric so you cut two at once? I'm confused 😕
if you fold the fabric in half you can lay the centre back on the fold of the fabric, so that piece is double layer and you open it up to one piece.
Then put the front panel on 2 layers of fabric.
I will make a video this week to explain the cutting out.
Thanks for the feedback, any questions like this help me to know what people want to learn 😊
ive just made this bodice block from your instructions and somehow my bust area is 12 cm too narrow. goodness knows where i went wrong. the neck and waist are prfect. Im 68 and full busted and a bit of a belly. can you advise. ive looked at doing full bust adjustment to it but 12 cms divided by 2 is quite a big amount to adjust by.
hmm, I wonder where you went wrong. The first place I'd start is to measure your bust again, then lay your front and back pattern pieces side by side, and the total width should be just over half of your bust measurement. If it's not then my guess is you either wrote down your bust measurement incorrectly or just measured it wrong when drawing the block? Let me know how you get on with that?
@@creativebobbin42 just measure front and back as suggested and it measures 1 cm more than half my bust. really do not know what is happening here. the back fits perfectly it is just the front from top of bust to just above the waist.
@@Teresasblaze I wonder if you need to lower the bust point, and make the dart below the bust a bit narrower, if so you could take a bit more out of the waist at the side seam so the waist doesn’t get too big.
If it’s too short from the armhole line to the front shoulder it could be pulling it up too, that’s worth looking at.
Thank you very much! that was very easy to follow. I have a question; I have a Japanese sewing pattern book that make you drew your own pattern using your bodice block. The problem is that the bodice they use is without any darts. What is this type of bodice called and where can I find it or purchase it? it or purchase it?
Oh good, I'm glad you could follow it, it's quite hard to explain! There are various fits for a bodice block, the one without darts might be for a looser fitting garment. What is it you want to buy?
@creativebobbin42 Yes, I need a tutorial for a bodice block without darts to use it to draw a pattern from a Japanese sewing book. All I can find is a bodice with darts, but the pattern I want to use is without darts. Dose this type of bodice have a specific name so I can search for it?
@@NoonSkyWings The one I'm demonstrating is a close fitting or tailored bodice block. If you want one without darts you could try looking up as easy fitting block, but most blocks have at least one dart on the bust. The Japanese book sounds quite specific, does it not suggest where to draft your block from? Is it a Kimono block maybe?
Hey Ali. Great video where are you based in UK and do you do courses? I live in Spain but sometimes visit UK. Many thanks 🎉
Thank you. I don't plan on running courses at the moment, but maybe for the future.
Can you please do a part 2 where you show how to pin it down, cut, and sew it up for all the newbies to follow along 🙏🏻❤
That’s a great idea. I’ll make a tutorial covering how to cut out, put things together etc…
Wow, thank you so much!!! @@creativebobbin42
Where did you buy the paper?
You can buy it on eBay. It works out better value if you buy a roll of it.
@@creativebobbin42 thank you but I got shocked of the postage prices to Hungary. I still have some pattern paper somewhere I will use that. And when my sister comes will ask her to bring some with her. I cannot seem to be able to buy much here.
@@InekeDusseljeeoh how strange, I assumed they’d sell it everywhere!
@@creativebobbin42 no matter. 😊👍🏼
Good Morning Ali, Made up the paper part of the pattern. I think it's measurements on my part and me measuring myself that is throwing things a bit off. Is it 'normal' to have 6 c.m. between back neck to waist and front neck to waist? My measurements strangely enough are very similar to yours. One thing I noticed is that you don't mention the measurement of the back neck as you go down horizontally, but I just went down 1.5 cm and drew a curve. Keep it up as I love your channel. It's very difficult for someone like me to get my head around all this as it's completely new but I'm determined.
I think I need to employ you as a consultant haha! No matter how many times I go over it I always miss something, yes 1.5cm on the back neck!
It does seem quite a big difference front to back, I'd put a belt on and something with a seam in exactly the right place on the shoulder and get someone to help you measure. If in doubt, add a little bit to the back and take off the front and see how the fit is. The difference is down to how 'curvy' you are.
@@creativebobbin42 Happy to help but you're doing a great job! I'm sewing it up rough this afternoon so fingers crossed!
@creativebobbin42 is it 1.5 cm for everyone or is it a specific number?
@@xoSiNgInGiNtHeRaInox Yes, it's 1.5cm on the back neck for everyone. It's such a small measurement that it won't vary from size to size.
Thank you for this extremely informative tutorial. I am excited to have a bodice block. One spot I am stuck on - using your calculations (bust/waist x 6) my dart width comes out to 7.8" (19.8 cm)! That is a big honkin' dart! Is this actually the length? I tried another tutorial (ua-cam.com/video/M4Oh7JOhamI/v-deo.html) using the calculations (full bust - underbust / 4) my dart width comes out to 1.75". What am I doing wrong?
Hi, thank you. Ok so that's definitely not right! It is the width and is generally around 5-7cm. I'm not quite sure where you went wrong. If you give me your measurements I can calculate it for you. You can message me privately via my Facebook page if you'd prefer.
@@creativebobbin42 I appreciate that! I sent a message on your FB page.
Hi miss. Great job..l wonder if this tutorial helpful for arabian bodies??
Thank you. It works on all body shapes, that’s the great thing about drafting with your own measurements instead of buying a pattern in ‘standard’ sizes.
Great tutorial, thanks. Does it work for kids‘ bodice?
The youngest I’ve tried it in is an 8 year old and it worked, I’m not sure for smaller than that though. Just ignore the waist shaping.
Thanks
Hi Ali, great tutorial. Youve explaibed it all really clearly! I always need to do FBAs, because I have a full bust. How would an FBA factor into a block like this, to add the extra width needed in the front?
Hi, thanks. You shouldn’t have to do any adjustments as you’ll be drafting it with your own measurements.
The chest width measurement, and the front neck to waist measurement will be what make it the right size for your bust at the front. Just make sure you’re very accurate with measurements. Let me know how you get on.
@@creativebobbin42 Thank you! I'm definitely going to give this a try, because I'm fed up with always having to make loads of pattern adjustments!