Sir, I’m super impressed by this video.it’s so precise and concise. I’ve searched UA-cam, trying to find one I could easily relate to. I think you should release your pattern book!
Thank you Christopher Sartorial!!! I began to sew 40 years ago. I made my clothes with the help of magazines patterns like Burda but with the age my body changed, magazines don't and I almost quit doing them. I've decided to make fitted clothes. After 2 months, hundreds of measurements in cm, inches, whatever.. 6 Bodice sloper drafting (one learn from a French Couture book, one from an American e.book and 4 from Brazilian UA-cam tutorials), It was difficult to swallow that the problem was in me, that I had "abnormal" measures... fortunately, I'm as normal as woman can be :). In one week I've already made a tunic, a collar shirt and a dress and I'm going to do more. I'm looking forward to more videos. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I cannot thank you enough for sharing your expertise and knowledge with us! I followed your guidelines for the fitted bodice sloper and I just now have the most perfectly fitting dresses! The fit is incredible! I could cry! Thank you!
Thank you so much Christopher! This was soo much fun putting this block together. I almost think I like drawing patterns better than sewing. It fit perfectly and I am an odd shape - shoulders are wide and arms are larger than most. I still can't believe how it worked. I made a woven top and still had room in the shoulders to move. I am excited to build many creations from this, It's great! Thanks again!
This is the best and most clear set of drafting instructions I have ever seen. PLEASE keep them coming. I am a beginner to sewing clothes and these have been invaluable to me!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been trying for 4 weeks now to make a sloper or dress block. None talk about darts in the drafting, and I dont know how to add them. Your's was the first, and only, video that I watched 1 time, followed the direction, and ended up with a useable piece. I only needed to adjust the back dart another +.25in. Again THANK YOU!
I must say thank you sir, your video is professionally done with easy to follow and understanding. I almost gave up hope as a beginner wanting to make my own clothes. I will definitely make a mock up and post my results. Once again thank you after I have brought books recommendations patterns and a bunch of tools based on other videos , only to be left stuck and confused without a single bodice block😢, I know the video I’m watching is old however I must say it’s still doing exactly what you put it up to do thank you so much. I truly hope you get this message sir.
You are definitely a God sent! I stumbled across your tutorial after jumping through hoops with many other confusing tutorials. I am so used to draping my patterns I was in such disbelief after finishing both front and back under your directions. There are no words to describe the genius that you are! Thank you for making a seemingly difficult task so easy🙏
Hands down the BEST pattern making video on youtube, stitched this for myself and it came out perfect!!!!!! Fit me to the T! So glad I found this may God reward you for your kindness!
@@christophersartorial7671 hello from Curacao , i just find your videos and you are the best ,very proffesional and your explanation is very clear thank you for sharing with us , God bless you. I want to ask you, if i can use your method in cm too in place of inches? So let me know as soon as possible. Thank you very much.
Christopher, today is 4/6/18. I've spent all week up to today trying different bodice making tutorials and failed miserably until I found yours. Thanks for being patient and organized in your teaching method as well as in the measurement text. Next will be your front bodice tutorial. Again, thanks for taking the time to make this.
Wow wow wow Just found you here and can I just say…. I used this tutorial and made a block for myself today. Fit immediately. IMMEDIATELY!!! This is so valuable and you’re so gracious to give this information to us. Thank you and I look forward to following your other tutorials. 😍😍
this video is kind of like the epitome of what the internet should be used for. Thank you so much, Mr. Sartorial! Very straight to the point and explained just enough to not confuse me as a novice!
Christopher, I'm a beginner and been searching for the simplest bodice pattern for about a month now. This is really good and easy to follow.. Thanks for taking your time to explain step by step.
it took me four trys, converting your easurments to metric and then comparing my draft from your way to my previous sloper and yay , its spot on except for the arm holes which are personal choice anyway. Excellent way of perfecting a sloper. Now to go make a armhole template then make up a muslin . thankyou for taking the time to show us
I'm glad it's working for you. The armhole depth is at the bust level for simplicity. As you stated, it can be raised or lowered based on preference or fashion.
It almost brings tears to my eyes watching this video. I have almost given up because of the complicated videos and instructions available for free viewing. Its insane some of the techniques I have viewed before yours. I can not thank you enough for presented this in layman's terms. I cant wait to draft my bodice.
Thank you Chris! I've tried making the basic bodice many times with different tutorials. They were ok. And then I made the bodice with your instructions and it fits perfectly! The fine details made a difference. You have the best tutorial for the basic bodice, thank you! :D
I want to thank you so much for your videos. I used your drafting videos to make a safari vest that fits so well it makes me smile to look at it. But the most important thing is the confidence it has given me to sew. The things I made before your videos were confusingly off and very discouraging. Your videos have helped me progress in one of my favorite pastimes. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this video! I was so confused before watching this as to the methodology behind certain measurements. You've explained everything so clearly that I'm actually able to firmly grasp the concept behind drafting a basic bodice and can work towards customizing beyond that. I wish you the best!
This has to be one of the best fitted bodice block tutorials that I have see on the internet , I really found your tutorial style clear to follow with great added information ….I will be watching all your tutorials ….will be making the blocks in a range of size in order to gain confidence in this method. This is how pattern cutting should to taught...im still learning a 62.Thank you .
Please make more video tutorials. I’ve watched video, read blogs and a few books, but I’ve found your video is simple to follow and to the point. No dramas.
Thank you, Chris!! This was not only mesmerizing to watch, it enabled me to draft a perfecly-fitted bodice and understand why it worked, whereas the previous one I tried did neither of those things. Thank you for sharing your expertise and experience.
Thank you so much, Christopher for your straightforward and informative instructions. There are a lot of poorly communicated, vague, error-filled bodice sloper instructions on the Internet and I have just wasted a week attempting to make a sloper based on some those versions. Thanks to you, I now have a sloper I can actually use. Your videos will be my go-to default from now on. Happy New Year from New Zealand :-)
I'm very glad it worked for you. I made the video because like you, I saw many video demos that were either too complicated or simply didn't work well.
I'm going to give this tutorial a try! For the checklist girlies like myself, here is the written list of measurements he has you take: -Back high point shoulder to waist -Center back neck to waist -Front high point shoulder to waist (over bust) -Center front neck to waist -Bust apex from waist -Between bust apex points -Bust circumference (plus 1.5” ease) -Waist circumference (plus .5” ease) -Across shoulders (from the back) -Shoulder seam length (side of neck to shoulder seam) -Shoulder slope (parallel surface out from neck, measure up from shoulder seam)
I would just like to say that over the last few weeks I have tried drafting my own pattern, and have viewed and tried quite a few. Yours is the easiest I have tried, and looking forward to trying your other patterns.
Very good and understandable tutorial. There are some out there that are extremely complicated and impossible to understand (divide this by three, add a cm here etc - no explanation as to WHY which makes it impossible to alter later on), but yours works for me and is very comprehensible as to why you use which measurement where. That in turn enables me to make small changes if I need to. So thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. It was nothing short of amazingly presented. So concise and clear; something that makes sense, is logical and I can remember. I've also taken notes. I've never thoroughly understood the drafting before, although I did some 40 years ago, and the other sloper videos presented are simply sloppy and confusing by comparison. I am very grateful to have found your videos.
Thanks for the kind words. After years of drafting patterns in the industry, I came to realize that drafting a bodice is not nearly as difficult as most textbooks describe. Apply the measurements in the right places and you'll create a good fitting bodice.
Absolutely the easiest bodice sloper drafting method. I did it straight onto some fabric (just used a bit of tracing paper for moving the front armhole dart) and sewed it up quickly, great fit. I didn't quite follow the front armhole needs to be smaller rule and ended up with 1/4" extra fabric...so follow that rule haha. I've tried other drafting methods and they're so convoluted! they require lots of tweaking and usually too tight. This will be so easy to adapt for patterns.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I've been working myself back up to Fashion Design and I've watched a lot of tutorials on the basics but yours is by far the best one I've come across. It's clear and concise and precise, not like a lot of other ones that add too much fluff at the beginning and too much mannerisms that are distracting. So, once again I Thank you.
I can't thank you enough for these videos! I tried and failed drafting a sloper multiple times using more complicated instructions, but somehow this method fit me almost spot-on at first, and only took a few tweaks to get a perfect fit. Thank you so much. :)
Absolutely amazing!! Spent hours trying to make a bodice and messed up too many times to count because it was difficult to understand. Thank you so much yours was very easy and concise!! You are literally a life saver!!
Thank you, thank you very much. It was quite a search. Your tutorial is not only patiently explained, but it also gives me insight how to adapt the measurements due to the pattern.
This is the first time i come across your channel . i took courses before but no one teaches you anything and its all commercial here so have been trying to self study pattern making for awhile now and i failed alot to understand . also i watched many youtube videos and it was very complicated . This is the First video I watch in your channel , i didnt try it yet but you say all the information clearly and easy . i just have troubles from inches to cm . thank you really , you are very helpful and a wonderful teacher , please keep making those videos.
Thank you for simplifying the drafting method. It took me a minute to realize that you had the pattern sideways. :) at the start of the marking lines. You didn't rush through and your soft voice made it easy to understand. Again Thank You
Thanks a million!!! I've been looking for a bodice pattern that fits without much adjusting for a long time. Perfect. Anxiously awaiting the pants draft.
Thank you so much for this ! I really appreciate it ! Ive been out of school for so long I wanted a refresher without going back and this was VERY helpful ! Very Much appreciated
hi Christopher, I have been drafting pattern for 16 years now but I didn't understand exactly how it worked until yesterday that I watched your. thanks for the armholes and truing explanations.
I have done and redone the bodice draft but none fit as perfectly as yours the first time. Your method for making the armhole smaller was right on point. I want to thank you for making simple the drafting of the bodice. I am looking forward to drafting the women's pants.
Thanks Margaret. Don't hold you breath on the pant. It may take a while for me to simplify the process sufficiently. A sleeve and skirt are coming soon, though.
Hi Chris. Thank you for an excellent tutorial, as always. I am learning how to draft a bodice block in detail and your video ticks the box. Looking forward to many more video's that will increase my knowledge. Kind regards.
Love this tutorial! I’ve made myself a duct tape body form to my measurements, will be measuring and drafting tommorrow. I m sure it’s going to fit just fine. So easy to follow your instructions. Thankyou
Thanks much. Pants are notoriously difficult, even for professionals. I strongly advise either purchasing a pant pattern and adjusting it, or take a pant that fits you and rub the pattern off it.
Thank you so much for sharing this Professional video i can understand each step that you demonstrate looking forward to my first drafting i am sure i will succeed with your help many thanks.
Thank you so much. Very clear. When I use commercial patterns I always have to do a narrow back adjustment. Would I still need to do this on the slipper?
Possibly you will need to make the narrow back adjustment you mentioned. If you are particularly full busted, or narrow through the ribcage, it may be sufficient to simply shift the side seam even more to the back than I demonstrated. Try a half inch instead of a quarter.
Oh Chris!!! Thanks for making this soooooo easy. I didn't see you measure across back. I did it anyway. Great video...I look forward to more videos, especially pants draft.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I've been following other tutorials on the basic bodice and still couldn't get a proper fitting even though I used my own measurements. I have no idea why I haven't found you before. Again, thank you very much!
I am often asked to demonstrate a pant draft. I may do so if I can simplify the process, but I won't demonstrate something that I'm not confident will work for you. For now you're better off starting from an existing pattern, or if you have an old pant that fits you, rip it apart and trace off the pattern. Believe it or not, that's what a lot of professional pattern makers do.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I just discovered your fitted bodice sloper part 1 tutorial. Your teaching skills are amazing!!! This is the best I've seen. Would you be willing to share with us how to draft a bodice sloper for men, pants for men and women, and anything you would like to teach us? Once again, thank you for sharing your expertise!
Hi Chris, I can't believe I'm just now recently finding your pattern drafting videos. You are definitely a professional and I appreciate your knowledge and skill. Thanks for sharing. Are you also an instructor, you do so, so well.
Hi Chris, thank you so much for the tutorial. At 7:53 on the video you square a line at the bottom for the waist. The line that you draw looks like it is more than 90 degrees (it leans to the right). How did you determine how far over to take the line? I am not sure where I am meant to be positioning my ruler. Many thanks.
The line drawn at the waist level is square to center back. The image is slightly distorted due to the angle of the camera. It is first drawn to an arbitrary length. As you see in the video, I then mark the specific length determined by the waist measurement taken.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thank you for your response. I was hoping that's all it was but as a complete newbie to this I thought I'd better double-check :o)
Hi Christopher Could you explain after making a woven bodice. Ok i have a shell of my garment so I can play to fit as I like. But I don’t understand how to work after with my drafting bodice, let see on a existing pattern like ( simplicity etc) to make me fit on my size How do we do that. Or how do we draft the bodice and let say I want to make just a simple shirt ou of it.? Where do I begin to sketch the ease and the line. I’m sorry I really try to make my explaination so you will understand but I’m french and I have trouble to find my words. Hope you will be able to help me. I would really like to make some garments and I have all my drafting bodice to my size that I have made but don’t know how to use it. Thank you You are really a good teacher 🌹
Thank you for such an easy to follow tutorial. I have had the best success so far, but have you got any advice on why I have gapping in the back neck bodice?
If you've measured accurately, and followed the steps as demonstrated, you shouldn't have excess gapping. Double check your measurements. If you have a blouse that fits you well, compare the measurements to that.
Christopher, you're a godsend. My bodice drafted from your method fits very nicely. I have a question though... if the bust point is excessively low, how then should I measure the waist side seam. Thank you!
Hello Christopher, the French Curve you have at 13:56, what is the technical name and brand for this? Do you know or have a link where I may buy one from please? I am having difficulty buying this exact one! I really need to. Thank you.
What if the back bodice was shorter ,how would you draft it and sew it to the back bodice to match it up perfectly since the waist length would be different.Thank you.
You measure the front and back separately and sew them together. Many people need a "sway back" alteration in the back because they have too much length in the back bodice, which results in pooling of fabric at the waist. You don't want the back and front being equal in length y if you are shorter waisted in the back compared to the front. It's a common discrepancy, especially with women who are larger busted - they need more length in the front to accommodate a larger bust, not just width, but length. If you've ever done an FBA, you'd know that the pattern pieces "automatically" lengthen when you adjust for the larger bust. I don't do FBAs on larger busted people for whom I sew, I just measure around the apex and below the apex to add more length if needed. But an FBA expresses the length you need when you manipulate the pattern pieces to allow for the larger bust. You wouldn't match their back bodice to their front bodice just because they have a larger bust or a larger abdomen and need more length in the front.
Hi...Im new to sewing...i was trying to use your method of drafting but encountered a problem...what do i do if the measurement at the waist line is almost the same as on the bust line ( the step at 8:06) it appears i have no excess for a dart...in measuring the person's bust and waist was almost equal to the bust ( person has a tummy but small bust)
In this case, I only added ease to the bust and waist. It is generally not necessary elsewhere. If this were a longer garment, ease would also be added to the hip.
I have ended up with a lot of excess fabric at the top of the back in the neck area. How do I solve this? I also have excess fabric across the front above the bust across the chest.
Without seeing the garment it's hard to diagnose. It sounds like the shoulder may be too sloped. Open the shoulder seams from the armhole to close to the neck and try it on. If that fixes the issue, you can then alter the shoulder angle of the sloper to be more shallow.
Hi! I've tried several of your methods: the bodice sloper, skirt, and both the one and 2-piece sleeves. All of them worked really well! The really cool thing I find about your method is that it works effectively AND efficiently---- I've looked at a number of other methods before I sew yours, and they now seem unnecessarily complicated with either the measurements or the drafting. I'm really thankful you made these videos to share your knowledge with us! In the mean time, I DO wish you would make some more! Pants have always been a headache for me; I wonder if you would share your method on making pants :) . Also, attempting to make a bodice sloper for men, should I approach it the same way as with the women's sloper? Hope to hear back!
@@christophersartorial7671 That will be wonderful!! I just came from the despair of not being able to make a pair of pants right, and wanted to ask for some help lol. If you care to know, I was following the lesson on theUniversityofFashion, but what turned out was too big in all dimensions. I then thought, oh, maybe I could try combining your skirt sloper and then add the crotch separately using their method...And then the crotch just got me really confused. So I'm really happy so your reply! If you could, could you address the differences in treatment we should have for men's and women's pants please? Thank you so much! You are such a saver!
@@dianakang7016 Pant patterns are notoriously challenging, even for professionals. You're often better off starting with an existing pattern, or copying a pattern from a pant that fits you. If it's an old pant, rip it up and trace off the pattern. If you don't want to sacrifice it, try rubbing it off, that means pinning fabric to it, and using tailors wax (or a crayon) to mark the seams on the fabric overlay.
@@christophersartorial7671 One other challenge for my family is, I should say, we don't have the "typical" body shape, so it's even rare to find a pair that fits well AND look good in stores. And this, partially, is making me look into everything. I'll be looking forward to your professional method while I experiment! :)
Hi, Chris, great tutorial, I think I am ready to try drafting a pattern for my friend. Should she wear a light non-padded bra while I measure, since she is going to be wearing that under the finished garment or is the ease added, enough to accommodate? (Please excuse my English!)
Dear Christopher. Thanks a lot for all these methods and great tutorials, it's a breeze of fresh air for my sewing projects - as I have been able to modify existing patterns with confidence. I have a question : Would you apply the same methodology for men fitted bodice? I am really wanting to apply this method to men, and though it could be easily translated. Nevertheless, I am not sure if I should use the same standards while drafting the pattern. Notably, would you : . Work with the same measurements (considering the apex to be also the fullest part of the bust)? . Add the same amount of ease - for bust and waist? . Subtract a 1/4inch to the bust and waist and back while drafting? . Remove the extra length (about a 1/2inch ) of the sleeve with a dart? Many thanks for your suggestions.
Drafting a man's shirt is very similar. I'm hoping to demonstrate this soon. To answer your specific questions: Measurements would be the same. Chest is measured at the fullest position, although no apex point is typically noted. The amount of ease can vary enormously, as men's shirts can be close fitting or very roomy. The side seam is not shifted to the back, making chest, waist, and sweep equal front and back (to start). The extra fullness in the front armhole is not usually rotated into a dart. Instead the front is shortened slightly at armhole/chest level, making the front slightly shorter in length than the back. Don't shorten more than 1/2" or the front may pull up.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thanks a lot for this concise yet precise answer. I will attempt to draft this considering your indications - and other ressources. Looking forward to see you video on men bodice/shirt.
Sir, I’m super impressed by this video.it’s so precise and concise. I’ve searched UA-cam, trying to find one I could easily relate to. I think you should release your pattern book!
Thank you Christopher Sartorial!!! I began to sew 40 years ago. I made my clothes with the help of magazines patterns like Burda but with the age my body changed, magazines don't and I almost quit doing them. I've decided to make fitted clothes. After 2 months, hundreds of measurements in cm, inches, whatever.. 6 Bodice sloper drafting (one learn from a French Couture book, one from an American e.book and 4 from Brazilian UA-cam tutorials), It was difficult to swallow that the problem was in me, that I had "abnormal" measures... fortunately, I'm as normal as woman can be :). In one week I've already made a tunic, a collar shirt and a dress and I'm going to do more. I'm looking forward to more videos. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I cannot thank you enough for sharing your expertise and knowledge with us! I followed your guidelines for the fitted bodice sloper and I just now have the most perfectly fitting dresses! The fit is incredible! I could cry! Thank you!
Thank you so much Christopher! This was soo much fun putting this block together. I almost think I like drawing patterns better than sewing. It fit perfectly and I am an odd shape - shoulders are wide and arms are larger than most. I still can't believe how it worked. I made a woven top and still had room in the shoulders to move. I am excited to build many creations from this, It's great! Thanks again!
This is the best and most clear set of drafting instructions I have ever seen. PLEASE keep them coming. I am a beginner to sewing clothes and these have been invaluable to me!
I'm glad you're finding them useful Jackie. Good luck with both your sewing and pattern making.
The best and most professional video on drafting a bodice so far, looking forward to more great stuff, thanks!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been trying for 4 weeks now to make a sloper or dress block. None talk about darts in the drafting, and I dont know how to add them. Your's was the first, and only, video that I watched 1 time, followed the direction, and ended up with a useable piece. I only needed to adjust the back dart another +.25in. Again THANK YOU!
I'm very happy it worked for you.
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I must say thank you sir, your video is professionally done with easy to follow and understanding. I almost gave up hope as a beginner wanting to make my own clothes. I will definitely make a mock up and post my results. Once again thank you after I have brought books recommendations patterns and a bunch of tools based on other videos , only to be left stuck and confused without a single bodice block😢, I know the video I’m watching is old however I must say it’s still doing exactly what you put it up to do thank you so much. I truly hope you get this message sir.
You are definitely a God sent! I stumbled across your tutorial after jumping through hoops with many other confusing tutorials. I am so used to draping my patterns I was in such disbelief after finishing both front and back under your directions. There are no words to describe the genius that you are! Thank you for making a seemingly difficult task so easy🙏
Hands down the BEST pattern making video on youtube, stitched this for myself and it came out perfect!!!!!! Fit me to the T! So glad I found this may God reward you for your kindness!
I'm blushing! Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad to be of service, and blessings to you as well.
@@christophersartorial7671 hello from Curacao , i just find your videos and you are the best ,very proffesional and your explanation is very clear thank you for sharing with us , God bless you.
I want to ask you, if i can use your method in cm too in place of inches? So let me know as soon as possible. Thank you very much.
@@karinafermin7839 Hi Karina. Yes, the drafting method would be the same whether using Metric or Imperial.
Christopher, today is 4/6/18. I've spent all week up to today trying different bodice making tutorials and failed miserably until I found yours. Thanks for being patient and organized in your teaching method as well as in the measurement text. Next will be your front bodice tutorial. Again, thanks for taking the time to make this.
Hello
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Wow wow wow
Just found you here and can I just say…. I used this tutorial and made a block for myself today. Fit immediately. IMMEDIATELY!!!
This is so valuable and you’re so gracious to give this information to us. Thank you and I look forward to following your other tutorials. 😍😍
Ahh finally a perfect tutorial on how to create a bodice. Thanks for this! I love how everything is accurate.
I'm glad you like it, and I hope it works for you.
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YOUR TUTORIAL IS THE MOST INFORMATIVE OF THE 6-10 TUTORIALS I'VE WATCHED FOR CONSTRUCTING MY OWN GARMENT PATTERNS...THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!
Kind of you. I'm glad it's helpful.
You've absolutely earned a follower in me.
I promise to learn well and utilize what I learn from you.
Thank you
this video is kind of like the epitome of what the internet should be used for. Thank you so much, Mr. Sartorial! Very straight to the point and explained just enough to not confuse me as a novice!
Christopher, I'm a beginner and been searching for the simplest bodice pattern for about a month now. This is really good and easy to follow.. Thanks for taking your time to explain step by step.
The best drafting bodice video so far. Thanks Christopher.
Kind of you. Thanks.
it took me four trys, converting your easurments to metric and then comparing my draft from your way to my previous sloper and yay , its spot on except for the arm holes which are personal choice anyway. Excellent way of perfecting a sloper. Now to go make a armhole template then make up a muslin . thankyou for taking the time to show us
I'm glad it's working for you. The armhole depth is at the bust level for simplicity. As you stated, it can be raised or lowered based on preference or fashion.
That was me under a different Google account.
It almost brings tears to my eyes watching this video. I have almost given up because of the complicated videos and instructions available for free viewing. Its insane some of the techniques I have viewed before yours. I can not thank you enough for presented this in layman's terms. I cant wait to draft my bodice.
I'm glad to be of help. Let me know how it turns out.
Thank you Chris! I've tried making the basic bodice many times with different tutorials. They were ok. And then I made the bodice with your instructions and it fits perfectly! The fine details made a difference. You have the best tutorial for the basic bodice, thank you! :D
Kind of you. That's why I developed this method.
By far the best explanations i have found on on slopers...you are extremely knowledgeable. Thank you for the videos!
Thanks much Elizabeth.
Oh, you don't know how many of these I've had to watch. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I want to thank you so much for your videos. I used your drafting videos to make a safari vest that fits so well it makes me smile to look at it. But the most important thing is the confidence it has given me to sew. The things I made before your videos were confusingly off and very discouraging. Your videos have helped me progress in one of my favorite pastimes. Thank you so much!
Makes me happy!
@@christophersartorial7671 hope you’re good and keeping well. We’ve missed your videos… lots of love.
Thank you so much for this video! I was so confused before watching this as to the methodology behind certain measurements. You've explained everything so clearly that I'm actually able to firmly grasp the concept behind drafting a basic bodice and can work towards customizing beyond that. I wish you the best!
Thanks for commenting. Glad to be of service.
This has to be one of the best fitted bodice block tutorials that I have see on the internet , I really found your tutorial style clear to follow with great added information ….I will be watching all your tutorials ….will be making the blocks in a range of size in order to gain confidence in this method. This is how pattern cutting should to taught...im still learning a 62.Thank you .
Very kind of you Gerald. I'm not that much younger than you. I'm still learning new techniques.
Please make more video tutorials. I’ve watched video, read blogs and a few books, but I’ve found your video is simple to follow and to the point. No dramas.
Have missed your fabulous tutorials ~ Back again in May 2024 to rewatch the old ones ( yes, they’re that good!)
Thank you, Chris!! This was not only mesmerizing to watch, it enabled me to draft a perfecly-fitted bodice and understand why it worked, whereas the previous one I tried did neither of those things. Thank you for sharing your expertise and experience.
I'm glad it worked so well for you.
I need more of your tutorials please...I’ve never had a better fit in my life...
Nice to hear. I hope to make more soon.
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Thank you so much, Christopher for your straightforward and informative instructions. There are a lot of poorly communicated, vague, error-filled bodice sloper instructions on the Internet and I have just wasted a week attempting to make a sloper based on some those versions. Thanks to you, I now have a sloper I can actually use. Your videos will be my go-to default from now on. Happy New Year from New Zealand :-)
I'm very glad it worked for you. I made the video because like you, I saw many video demos that were either too complicated or simply didn't work well.
You have no idea how your tutorial has helped me... Thank you!!!!
I'm very glad to hear it.
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I'm going to give this tutorial a try! For the checklist girlies like myself, here is the written list of measurements he has you take:
-Back high point shoulder to waist
-Center back neck to waist
-Front high point shoulder to waist (over bust)
-Center front neck to waist
-Bust apex from waist
-Between bust apex points
-Bust circumference (plus 1.5” ease)
-Waist circumference (plus .5” ease)
-Across shoulders (from the back)
-Shoulder seam length (side of neck to shoulder seam)
-Shoulder slope (parallel surface out from neck, measure up from shoulder seam)
I would just like to say that over the last few weeks I have tried drafting my own pattern, and have viewed and tried quite a few. Yours is the easiest I have tried, and looking forward to trying your other patterns.
Thanks. My other videos follow more closely standard drafting methods, so I hope you're not disappointed.
Thank you. I know enough about pattern making to know I know nothing about pattern making. You make it look easy, best tutorial I've seen.
I appreciate it.
I’m goin out for paper to do this today. Thank you, finally it makes sense. Subscribed.
I hope it works for you.
Very good and understandable tutorial. There are some out there that are extremely complicated and impossible to understand (divide this by three, add a cm here etc - no explanation as to WHY which makes it impossible to alter later on), but yours works for me and is very comprehensible as to why you use which measurement where. That in turn enables me to make small changes if I need to. So thank you!
That's one of the reasons I made the video, to show that it doesn't have to be so complicated.
The best most simple tutorial I've seen. Thank you. I can't wait to create my perfect bodice sloped. Can't wait to see more.
Thanks! More coming up.
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Thank you so much for this video. It was nothing short of amazingly presented. So concise and clear; something that makes sense, is logical and I can remember. I've also taken notes. I've never thoroughly understood the drafting before, although I did some 40 years ago, and the other sloper videos presented are simply sloppy and confusing by comparison. I am very grateful to have found your videos.
Thanks for the kind words. After years of drafting patterns in the industry, I came to realize that drafting a bodice is not nearly as difficult as most textbooks describe. Apply the measurements in the right places and you'll create a good fitting bodice.
Absolutely the easiest bodice sloper drafting method. I did it straight onto some fabric (just used a bit of tracing paper for moving the front armhole dart) and sewed it up quickly, great fit. I didn't quite follow the front armhole needs to be smaller rule and ended up with 1/4" extra fabric...so follow that rule haha. I've tried other drafting methods and they're so convoluted! they require lots of tweaking and usually too tight. This will be so easy to adapt for patterns.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I've been working myself back up to Fashion Design and I've watched a lot of tutorials on the basics but yours is by far the best one I've come across. It's clear and concise and precise, not like a lot of other ones that add too much fluff at the beginning and too much mannerisms that are distracting. So, once again I Thank you.
LOL at the mannerisms! If all teachers did that in school I don't where the world will be heading. Hahaha!!!
Tekeleth Yahalom baht Israel THEE best!!!!!
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I can't thank you enough for these videos! I tried and failed drafting a sloper multiple times using more complicated instructions, but somehow this method fit me almost spot-on at first, and only took a few tweaks to get a perfect fit. Thank you so much. :)
I'm glad it's working well for you.
Thank you, Chris, for your concise, easily understood tutorials! Please keep adding more.
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Absolutely amazing!! Spent hours trying to make a bodice and messed up too many times to count because it was difficult to understand. Thank you so much yours was very easy and concise!! You are literally a life saver!!
That's why I made the video. I hope it works well for you.
Thank you, thank you very much. It was quite a search. Your tutorial is not only patiently explained, but it also gives me insight how to adapt the measurements due to the pattern.
I'm glad you found it useful.
This is the first time i come across your channel . i took courses before but no one teaches you anything and its all commercial here so have been trying to self study pattern making for awhile now and i failed alot to understand . also i watched many youtube videos and it was very complicated . This is the First video I watch in your channel , i didnt try it yet but you say all the information clearly and easy . i just have troubles from inches to cm . thank you really , you are very helpful and a wonderful teacher , please keep making those videos.
Great to hear from you Menna. I'm not sure what was wrong with the courses you took, but there are many good ones out there.
This is a fantastic tutorial! Thank you for sharing your expertise! This was such an in depth but accessible video!!
Thank you so much. Moving the shoulder dart to the side was exactly the information I needed!
This is by far the best I've seen, thank you very much.
Thanks. I hope you found it helpful.
Thank you for simplifying the drafting method. It took me a minute to realize that you had the pattern sideways. :) at the start of the marking lines. You didn't rush through and your soft voice made it easy to understand. Again Thank You
Thanks. I was taught to draft with the pattern oriented sideways, so I always do it that way.
Well explained, Excellent explanation. Very clear and precise. Thank you for wonderful tutorial. I can not wait to see for the next video.
Thank you very much! Your videos showed me the practical part of what I learned in my books
I'm glad to be of help.
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Thanks a million!!! I've been looking for a bodice pattern that fits without much adjusting for a long time. Perfect. Anxiously awaiting the pants draft.
Thank you so much for this ! I really appreciate it ! Ive been out of school for so long I wanted a refresher without going back and this was VERY helpful ! Very Much appreciated
This was so easy to follow! I was struggling with the patternmaking book I had from college to make my bodice and this was a lifesaver!
Thanks. I'm gad it worked for you.
hi Christopher, I have been drafting pattern for 16 years now but I didn't understand exactly how it worked until yesterday that I watched your. thanks for the armholes and truing explanations.
It took me many years to develop the techniques I now use.
I have done and redone the bodice draft but none fit as perfectly as yours the first time. Your method for making the armhole smaller was right on point. I want to thank you for making simple the drafting of the bodice. I am looking forward to drafting the women's pants.
Thanks Margaret. Don't hold you breath on the pant. It may take a while for me to simplify the process sufficiently. A sleeve and skirt are coming soon, though.
@@christophersartorial7671 HI Chris , all your videos are Amazing, I hope you make a women's pants pattern video soon 🙏 😊
Hi Christopher.. Am so thankful I found you. You are a really great teacher. Can't wait for more videos. Thank you so much. God bless you
Kind of you. Hopefully, more videos coming.
Hi Chris. Thank you for an excellent tutorial, as always. I am learning how to draft a bodice block in detail and your video ticks the box. Looking forward to many more video's that will increase my knowledge. Kind regards.
I'm glad you find them useful.
Very precise an well tempered a voice one can record in memory thanks for sharing we appreciate your approach much
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This I understand, and think it's possibly something I can do. Other videos have left me feeling very confused. Thank you.
Love this tutorial! I’ve made myself a duct tape body form to my measurements, will be measuring and drafting tommorrow. I m sure it’s going to fit just fine. So easy to follow your instructions. Thankyou
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the best demonstration of pattern making. Look forward to the pants sloper! Thank you so much ❤️
Thanks much. Pants are notoriously difficult, even for professionals. I strongly advise either purchasing a pant pattern and adjusting it, or take a pant that fits you and rub the pattern off it.
Thank you so much for sharing this Professional video i can understand each step that you demonstrate looking forward to my first drafting i am sure i will succeed with your help many thanks.
Chris you have become my new friend, now, I must work on the lapel jacket your way keep the good work 👏 🙌 👍
Thank you so much. Very clear. When I use commercial patterns I always have to do a narrow back adjustment. Would I still need to do this on the slipper?
Possibly you will need to make the narrow back adjustment you mentioned. If you are particularly full busted, or narrow through the ribcage, it may be sufficient to simply shift the side seam even more to the back than I demonstrated. Try a half inch instead of a quarter.
Thank you
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Have just found your channel, wow such concise uncomplicated instructions with many useful tips. Thank you so much. So very helpful
I'm glad you find my videos useful.
Oh Chris!!! Thanks for making this soooooo easy.
I didn't see you measure across back. I did it anyway.
Great video...I look forward to more videos, especially pants draft.
I subtract 1/2" from the across shoulder measurement for across the back, so no need to measure. I'm glad you liked it.
I just subscribed. This is the best video I’ve seen yet! Thank you!
Hi chris u have a great tutorials. hope u will upload more about other related to garment tips and techniques.. thank u so much.
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Wow, that was beautiful. Looking forward to part II now. Onwards!!...
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Thank you so much for sharing this. I've been following other tutorials on the basic bodice and still couldn't get a proper fitting even though I used my own measurements. I have no idea why I haven't found you before. Again, thank you very much!
Excellent video on drafting a bodice I've ever seen. Ive been looking for something like this!Thank you so so much and God bless you
Please can you put up a video for drafting pants? I'll be most grateful to have it. Thank you so much
I am often asked to demonstrate a pant draft. I may do so if I can simplify the process, but I won't demonstrate something that I'm not confident will work for you. For now you're better off starting from an existing pattern, or if you have an old pant that fits you, rip it apart and trace off the pattern. Believe it or not, that's what a lot of professional pattern makers do.
Christopher Sartorial Thank you so much, I'll do just that
Hi Christopher, sorry about my comment, I found the information at the beginning of your 1st video. Thank you again for your video.
The best I have ever seen so far 👏👏👏 thank you 😊
Thanks Fatima. More coming soon.
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Hi Christopher! How to sew the shoulder seams if the front is shorter then the back? Thank you so much!! I really appreciate it your tutorials!!!❤
@@DGT-sw1wl Thank you!!🤗
I really enjoy your teaching style. I hope you create more videos!
Thanks. I'm working on one now.
Hello, could you upload a video on how to move the arm hole dart to the shoulder slope?
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! I just discovered your fitted bodice sloper part 1 tutorial. Your teaching skills are amazing!!! This is the best I've seen. Would you be willing to share with us how to draft a bodice sloper for men, pants for men and women, and anything you would like to teach us? Once again, thank you for sharing your expertise!
I'm glad you like the videos, Mimi. I'm hoping to demonstrate a man's shirt draft soon.
I second that
Do fashion designers use maylines/parallel bars? I am architect student, this is my favorite drafting tool.
I'm not familiar with those tools. I may be using something similar though.
Hi Chris,
I can't believe I'm just now recently finding your pattern drafting videos. You are definitely a professional and I appreciate your knowledge and skill. Thanks for sharing. Are you also an instructor, you do so, so well.
I've only done a little teaching. I work full time in the industry, and freelance on the side, so little time for it. Perhaps when I retire.
Hi Chris, thank you so much for the tutorial. At 7:53 on the video you square a line at the bottom for the waist. The line that you draw looks like it is more than 90 degrees (it leans to the right). How did you determine how far over to take the line? I am not sure where I am meant to be positioning my ruler. Many thanks.
The line drawn at the waist level is square to center back. The image is slightly distorted due to the angle of the camera. It is first drawn to an arbitrary length. As you see in the video, I then mark the specific length determined by the waist measurement taken.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thank you for your response. I was hoping that's all it was but as a complete newbie to this I thought I'd better double-check :o)
Hi Chris...At 7:16, wen u say one quarter of the bust : Does'Bust' include the ease that u have mentioned earlier?
ok..I think i got the answer from part 2 ..It includes the ease . is that correct ? :-)
@@latasundar7597 Yes, you're correct.
Thank you very much. Now i have a better understanding of drafting patterns. Very explanatory and professional.
Hi Christopher
Could you explain after making a woven bodice.
Ok i have a shell of my garment so I can play to fit as I like.
But I don’t understand how to work after with my drafting bodice, let see on a existing pattern like ( simplicity etc) to make me fit on my size
How do we do that.
Or how do we draft the bodice and let say I want to make just a simple shirt ou of it.?
Where do I begin to sketch the ease and the line.
I’m sorry I really try to make my explaination so you will understand but I’m french and I have trouble to find my words.
Hope you will be able to help me.
I would really like to make some garments and I have all my drafting bodice to my size that I have made but don’t know how to use it.
Thank you
You are really a good teacher
🌹
Thank you for such an easy to follow tutorial. I have had the best success so far, but have you got any advice on why I have gapping in the back neck bodice?
If you've measured accurately, and followed the steps as demonstrated, you shouldn't have excess gapping. Double check your measurements. If you have a blouse that fits you well, compare the measurements to that.
Christopher, you're a godsend. My bodice drafted from your method fits very nicely. I have a question though... if the bust point is excessively low, how then should I measure the waist side seam. Thank you!
Hello Christopher, the French Curve you have at 13:56, what is the technical name and brand for this? Do you know or have a link where I may buy one from please? I am having difficulty buying this exact one! I really need to. Thank you.
The one I'm using is a 9" French curve by Lance #FC-1.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thank you very much!
What if the back bodice was shorter ,how would you draft it and sew it to the back bodice to match it up perfectly since the waist length would be different.Thank you.
You measure the front and back separately and sew them together. Many people need a "sway back" alteration in the back because they have too much length in the back bodice, which results in pooling of fabric at the waist. You don't want the back and front being equal in length y if you are shorter waisted in the back compared to the front. It's a common discrepancy, especially with women who are larger busted - they need more length in the front to accommodate a larger bust, not just width, but length. If you've ever done an FBA, you'd know that the pattern pieces "automatically" lengthen when you adjust for the larger bust. I don't do FBAs on larger busted people for whom I sew, I just measure around the apex and below the apex to add more length if needed. But an FBA expresses the length you need when you manipulate the pattern pieces to allow for the larger bust. You wouldn't match their back bodice to their front bodice just because they have a larger bust or a larger abdomen and need more length in the front.
Hi...Im new to sewing...i was trying to use your method of drafting but encountered a problem...what do i do if the measurement at the waist line is almost the same as on the bust line ( the step at 8:06) it appears i have no excess for a dart...in measuring the person's bust and waist was almost equal to the bust ( person has a tummy but small bust)
In that case, I would simply leave the front waist dart out. You may still need one in the back though.
I understand what's squaring up is but what does it mean to "True"?
Thank you for this video. Very detailed. You took your time to explain things and the reason for doing them.
I'm glad you like it.
Chris please do you add the ease to all the measurements or only to the bust and waist...kinda confuse a bit???
In this case, I only added ease to the bust and waist. It is generally not necessary elsewhere. If this were a longer garment, ease would also be added to the hip.
@@christophersartorial7671 I get it...thx very much
I have ended up with a lot of excess fabric at the top of the back in the neck area. How do I solve this? I also have excess fabric across the front above the bust across the chest.
Without seeing the garment it's hard to diagnose. It sounds like the shoulder may be too sloped. Open the shoulder seams from the armhole to close to the neck and try it on. If that fixes the issue, you can then alter the shoulder angle of the sloper to be more shallow.
Christopher Sartorial That’s fixed it, thanks!
Thank you so much sir! I need more your tutorials with basic block please.
l want to be learning your tutorials.
Hi I'm HappyDandong who runs sewing Channel. I got to know you by posting a recommendation videotaped . 😊😍
Welcome. Nice to connect with you.
Hi! I've tried several of your methods: the bodice sloper, skirt, and both the one and 2-piece sleeves. All of them worked really well! The really cool thing I find about your method is that it works effectively AND efficiently---- I've looked at a number of other methods before I sew yours, and they now seem unnecessarily complicated with either the measurements or the drafting. I'm really thankful you made these videos to share your knowledge with us! In the mean time, I DO wish you would make some more! Pants have always been a headache for me; I wonder if you would share your method on making pants :) . Also, attempting to make a bodice sloper for men, should I approach it the same way as with the women's sloper? Hope to hear back!
Thanks Diana. I'm hoping to get around to showing a pant and men's shirt draft.
@@christophersartorial7671 That will be wonderful!! I just came from the despair of not being able to make a pair of pants right, and wanted to ask for some help lol. If you care to know, I was following the lesson on theUniversityofFashion, but what turned out was too big in all dimensions. I then thought, oh, maybe I could try combining your skirt sloper and then add the crotch separately using their method...And then the crotch just got me really confused. So I'm really happy so your reply! If you could, could you address the differences in treatment we should have for men's and women's pants please? Thank you so much! You are such a saver!
@@dianakang7016 Pant patterns are notoriously challenging, even for professionals. You're often better off starting with an existing pattern, or copying a pattern from a pant that fits you. If it's an old pant, rip it up and trace off the pattern. If you don't want to sacrifice it, try rubbing it off, that means pinning fabric to it, and using tailors wax (or a crayon) to mark the seams on the fabric overlay.
Hi I'm HappyDandong who runs sewing Channel. I got to know you by posting a recommendation videotaped .
@@christophersartorial7671 One other challenge for my family is, I should say, we don't have the "typical" body shape, so it's even rare to find a pair that fits well AND look good in stores. And this, partially, is making me look into everything. I'll be looking forward to your professional method while I experiment! :)
Thank you so very much for this. Very insightful. Very much appreciated. Will be trying to put this into practice soon...
I hope it works well for you.
Hi, Chris, great tutorial, I think I am ready to try drafting a pattern for my friend. Should she wear a light non-padded bra while I measure, since she is going to be wearing that under the finished garment or is the ease added, enough to accommodate? (Please excuse my English!)
Yes, your friend should wear whatever she typically will wear under the garment. You will still need to add ease.
Dear Christopher.
Thanks a lot for all these methods and great tutorials, it's a breeze of fresh air for my sewing projects - as I have been able to modify existing patterns with confidence.
I have a question :
Would you apply the same methodology for men fitted bodice?
I am really wanting to apply this method to men, and though it could be easily translated.
Nevertheless, I am not sure if I should use the same standards while drafting the pattern.
Notably, would you :
. Work with the same measurements (considering the apex to be also the fullest part of the bust)?
. Add the same amount of ease - for bust and waist?
. Subtract a 1/4inch to the bust and waist and back while drafting?
. Remove the extra length (about a 1/2inch ) of the sleeve with a dart?
Many thanks for your suggestions.
Drafting a man's shirt is very similar. I'm hoping to demonstrate this soon. To answer your specific questions: Measurements would be the same. Chest is measured at the fullest position, although no apex point is typically noted.
The amount of ease can vary enormously, as men's shirts can be close fitting or very roomy.
The side seam is not shifted to the back, making chest, waist, and sweep equal front and back (to start).
The extra fullness in the front armhole is not usually rotated into a dart. Instead the front is shortened slightly at armhole/chest level, making the front slightly shorter in length than the back. Don't shorten more than 1/2" or the front may pull up.
@@christophersartorial7671 Thanks a lot for this concise yet precise answer. I will attempt to draft this considering your indications - and other ressources. Looking forward to see you video on men bodice/shirt.
@@Dubink Good luck. I forgot to mention that the back armhole dart should be extended into your back yoke seam.