DIY Pattern Drafting Metric 👗📐 | Make your own Perfect Fit Bodice Block Sloper
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- Draft your own perfect fit bodice block sloper to your measurements. 👗📐These metric drafting instructions are an amalgamation of several different drafting methods which together are designed to give you the perfect fit with minimal fitting alterations. I will go through taking your own measurements and the algebraic drafting process - don't worry - I've calculated all the formulas for you! Link to spreadsheet below ▼ click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.
→ Links ←
Written instructions: byilona.co.uk/?p=1644
Formulas: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Ruler: byilona.co.uk/product/simplif...
→ Follow me ←
Instagram: @byilonamillinery
Patreon: / byilonamillinery
Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/byilonamillinery
Website: byilona.co.uk
depop: depop.com/byilonamillinery/
→ Books ←
Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear 6th edition by Winifred Aldrich (2015)
Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina
→ Chapters ←
00:00 - Introduction
01:08 - Taking Measurements
10:18 - Tools & Materials
12:50 - Drafting
22:58 - Toile/mockup
27:06 - Fit Alterations
29:38 - Pattern Guides
→ Music ←
With a Stamp by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 licence. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Artist: www.twinmusicom.org/
#sewing #patternmaking #clothes - Навчання та стиль
Link to spreadsheet below ▼ click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.
→ Links ←
Written instructions: byilona.co.uk/?p=1644
Formulas: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mbO3qYslg2DYgL-sO44soH7mQkKOX2pn/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=114743988625500617205&rtpof=true&sd=true
Ruler: byilona.co.uk/product/simplif...
Do you have instructions for pear shaped please?
the links are broken :(
Link is not working 😢
Hi Lynn, thanks for pointing this out. I have updated the links, they should now work.
Hi Nazrin, thanks for pointing this out. I have updated the links, they should now work.
I do not have the body type you are talking about, but i love listening to you, so i am happily watching this video. 😂😂
This was the absolute BEST patterning tutorial I’ve ever seen. And I’m an experienced seamstress who has sewn for many years! You are very good at explaining and organizing information.
Hello! Thank you for your lovely comment. I really appreciate that you like the video 😊
You are the first person who us addressing the individuality of body shape.
Thank you so much
WHERE were you all my life??? Clear n Neat. Thank you SOOO MUCH. Power to the metric!!!
I wanted to say You've Sunk My Battleship! or BINGO! This was so helpful and after this I finally got a fitted back! I Cannot thank you enough for this video
This is the most detailed, easy to follow tutorial I've found. Also my body shape is very similar to yours and you described the same problems with store bought clothing I have. Thank You so much!
Now I'm off to the drawing board to get started 🙂
Fabulous. I just starting out learning about pattern drafting etc, and this really helps ❤
Wow, that was a very comprehensive guide. I'm glad my old shirts came in handy!
Hi, The internet thank you for contribution of shirts😉😊. Well I do at least. I watched you two dance earlier, thanks to a link from Ilona. You looked to have so much fun. Yours, Ann
I really find very interesting to this tutorial. I looked many tutorials and the way of teahing is perfect. The problem is in the pattern system technique. I will practice more the techniques that I have learned to improve it. I don't like fittings because sometimes the clients don't have time to check how clothes fit on them. However your tutorial was the best of bodice patterns making.
Finally found your video. Gorgeous and simple. Keep up the good work and wait for your following pattern-making tutorials. 😍
Thank you so much! I am glad you enjoyed this 😊
@@ByIlonaMillinery I have a question,CC3 = DD2 = Bu + ease, should it add a dart size? While i tried to follow your tutorial and video, but my pattern quite weird for the front . It' didn't work to make the dart width in the shoulder.
Fantastic! Seeing as well! 🎉
Thank you SO much for this!
Hello Regina! You are very welcome 😊 Let me know how this goes if you decide to try it!
The shoulder measurement always alludes me🥲
Thankyou Illona, the tips on measuring by yourself. I agree that masking tape can be very useful. I have been known to use it , with tissue as a temporary dressing when accidentally stabbing my self when sewing! As it is low tack it causes less damage if removed pronto. As I'm similarly shaped to you I really appreciate the self draft demonstration.
Hello Jacqueline, You are so welcome 😊I do hope you try this and it works for you 😃
Ahhhi didn't know kw you did sewing videos too!! So happy stumbled across this I live your videos
Hi Emily, I am so glad you like my videos! yes - I have a few sewing videos, but I am mainly here for all the hats 👒 Would you be interested in more sewing videos? If so, what would you like to see me do? 👗📐
You are so funny when it comes to measurement taking
Just came across your video,well done
Sounds good. Im in.
Updated:
Omg this is the BEST video I've seen. I actually do have a free torso sloper downloaded and started modifying the first mock up. I just kinda got lost and couldn't find the alterations I needed described anywhere. Coincidently they are the same you needed on your pattern so I finally know what I need to fix and how. Thank you.
Also if I where to draft this, does it work for C-D cup sizes without FBA?
Update: tried this technique of drafting but it stopped working for me at lenght a1d +1cm. It was 6cm longer than my shoulder lenght (mine is 11 or 12 cm, it ended up 17cm. Such a shame. I really hoped it would work
Great, thanks for sharing 👍
❤ nice
Thank you, Ilona for this video. I'm brand new to sewing and I found you video very easy to follow. I've just created my own bodice block, and while the first mockup isn't perfect its closer than I've gotten before! With a few simple adjustments I should be able to have my perfect fit. Thank you again! Quick question: Does this bodice block pattern accommodate a sleeve? Or do I need to adjust the ease to fit a sleeve in?
Hi, this video is syper helpful and I will definitely use it. I'm having trouble opening the page with the formulas. Could you share the link drive?
I am going to use this to attempt to pattern myself. I would love to see a video like this for he sway back patterning! I have the hardest time getting clothes to lay flat instead of gathering above the bum where the sway is most pronounced.
Hi Lissa! For a sway back alteration take a horizontal pie wedge out of the bottom of the centre back to shorten the back without shortening the sides- this should help.
@ByIlonaMillinery and then you just straighten the center back seam right?
Мне понравилось, как Вы объясняете. Спасибо. Супер. Вы позитивны.❤
Спасибо большое! Я очень рада что вам понравилось 😊
Thank you!!! And how can I make the sleeve?
Hola sube más videos de patrones de Ropa
عالیست 👌👏🌹❤👍🙏
I downloaded the spreadsheet but everything is in the wrong columns by a couple?
Love the idea of using an old man's shirt for the muslin.
Actual drafting starts at 13 minutes 😊
Would your system work for men's measurements? I want to sew a bespoke shirt for myself from scratch. I'm a total noob but determined. 😂 Thx for the video and reply!
Hi Ilona, thank you for this super helpful video. I've tried using this and the toile mostly fits really nicely however the shoulder part has gotten really messed up for me at both front and back. My shoulder length is 18cm so according to the instructions my final back shoulder length should be 19cm, but when I join up the points a1 and d2 the back shoulder line is way longer at 22cm! For the front shoulder, the distance between the A2 and A4 also ends up being 16cm on paper, which is shorter than my shoulder length. I've gone over each step again trying to work out where I've gone wrong but can't seem to work out where I've gone wrong, please could you help? I could share my completed spreadsheet with you if you happened to have the time and patience to troubleshoot...
Hello, thanks for getting in touch - gosh it really does sound complicated! I can't help you directly, however I recommend rather than going over your work, you start from the very beginning - including taking your measurements. When I first learnt to pattern draft, I had a very similar problem to what you are describing, and when starting again from scratch I realised I had taken my measurements wrong AND I had entered a number wrong into the formulas. Good luck & I hope you succeed! 😊🧵
I had the same problem. She forgot to put the back dart on the shoulder :) You measure then starting from the dart, not from point a1. If you look at the video, there are darts on the back. I hope this helps.
I have the same problem...
I have the same issue
Hi ilona! i just finished drafting the pattern but now i see that you also have a dart in the back shoulder area. is that a personal choice after a fitting? is it neccesarry?
Hi Sophie! Yes, it's a personal choice. With this draft, you will find the back shoulder 1cm longer than the front shoulder. This is to accomodate the curve of your upper back.
You can either ease the back shoulder into the front, or add the dart (the dart goes in the centre of the back shoulder perpendicular to it for 7.5cm)
Oh, I just learned I have large bust. My blouses always pop in the middle and that is such a hassle
This guide is very well made and comprehensive. However at 15:42 when you said that the length between a1 and d should be equal to the shoulder length + 1, you completely lost me, because there was already a 4-5 cm discrepancy. This sort of had a domino effect on everything else from then on, so I just stopped. Which is a shame because it was going so well up until that point.
I have the same problem
Hi, Ilona. I draft the pattern with the winifred Aldrich method and it says to leave a 5cm easy at the bust, you dismiss this right? it was too much?
Hi Isabel, the ease is totally up to you. If you want a loose blousy fit, add more ease. If you want super fitted, the minimum amount is 1cm. I hope this helps 😊🪡
I am confused with the hip measurement, i usually take it lower at the fullest part of my butt bc that's the widest part
Hello, will this tutorial work for the normal bust size?
Hello! You can try, but you will need to do a lot of extra fittings work. You might end up with gaping at the chest and arms, and the front will be too long at the bust line.
Ilona, would you be willing to make this for normal bust size? I am just starting sewing and what you're doing is EXACTLY what I was looking for ❤
@@QueenAnon Hello! It's great that you are starting sewing - good luck! 🧵I will add this to my do to list, but I am not sure when I will get round to it. For now, here is some information as to how it would be different: the difference between a "normal" bust in comparison to a "large" bust will be in the centre front length of the front bodice piece, the armscye construction, and also the width along the bust line.
Hello, how are you? I loved your video, it is true that I measure my body measurements 100 times because I always believe that they have been taken incorrectly when I compare them with a table of measurements, the horizontal measurements are more or less but the vertical measurements are very very different, the problem is that I'm 156 and the rage woman is possibly 168... I don't know if that would be too much of an indiscretion, please feel free to answer, what is your height? that will help me confirm the difference in sizes. Very many Thank you for your excellent work. (sorry, I don't speak English, this is an automatic translation)
Hey! I understand your struggle! My height is 158cm. But height isn't always an indicator. For example I know that my torso (back waist) measure is very short, but my legs (hip to floor) is average. The best thing is for you to look in the mirror. Are your legs super long, or short or average looking? You can also think about how shop bought clothes fit you. Eg, on me, tops are always too long and bunch up in the back, but trousers are always fine in length.
Thank ❤
❤Thank
I couldn't edit on the google sheet
Hi Dina, please click File → Make a copy. This will save a version of this file to your Google Drive and you will then be able to make edits without affecting the master.
Like
Please use white paper
✨🧵
Or instead of the larger average your numbers
Can you explain this in inches?
I'm from the itty bitty community but I still want to watch. 😂 I feel bad for women with larger breasts. I have heard about back pain and other issues. I have my own problems but weight on my back isn't one. It looks good women with larger one's but seems a hassle.
Lost you at 13.11 😔
Put number on sereen please
5:54 that chart is nonsensical. none of my measurements match anything and I'm average
Size 10 bust measurement at 84cm and waist at 64cm????? This chart must be from the 1950s