@@LockyourHubs4WDing oooooo mate, your take on a turbo replacement or proper intake manifold clean...i know a proper soot clean isnt the easiest job. My utes done 350k and just done new injectors, but need some more thorough V8 attention soon. BUT just keep doing what you do bloke. We'll all appreciate it.
To get those cone washers out stick a thin bladed slot screwdriver in the split in the cone washer & twist them out, works every time & no hammer needed.
Honestly, it's not that hard, just take your time. I sometimes take photos on my phone as I disassemble things (from multiple angles) to help with the reassembly.
Hot tip: if you don't have a bearing race driver take the old races, grind a slot and weld them together so as to form a smaller diameter. Stack two together and voila. DIY driver.
Good video mate really stepped it up and done heaps better then my one. Also when ur pull out the rotor and its not coming off back the handbrake adjust screw back a bit or u pull off the handbrake pin thing and stuff those disk things also i had to get a new hub because i took a tooth or 2 off my abs ring thing. Run into problems and u learn from it haha Can use the old bearing race with a cut in it to install the new ones. Cant wait to see more of ur vids
To get the axle out put two metric bolts in the two threaded holes in the axle flange (at the 9 & 3 O'clock position @2.31) & wind them in with a spanner to pull the axle out, easy peasy, no hammer needed.
M6 metric thread from memory. Though I've also come across several that have been so clogged up with junk i wasn't able to start the bolt, so I tend not to use them.
This video was a great help to me replacing the rear bearings and seals on my 2006 series 78 Troopie. You indicated that you had a problem with the thread of one of the axle retaining studs. Please can you let me know what the thread size is. Metric ? Thanks for a real informative video,
Thanks mate, great info, I picked up a few great points there. Just one question, why the gasket sealant on both edges of the rear seal? Aren’t they made to spin? The gasket goo is an adhesive?
Great pickup, they're not standard seals, they're double lipped. Both the outter and inner stay stationary and only the middle moves. They're great when conventional seals have worn a groove that can't easily be replaced like a rear spindle. Terrain Tamer sell them.
Where did you get the grunts calibrated? That was good to watch...there are details there that I didn't know about, so thanks. Please excuse my silly comment re grunts...I just can't help myself. I'm in that age bracket, so, really what do you expect?
Decent question! I uses a NATA cetified test laboratory to calibrate my grunts. It's important to maintain your calibration and get recertified annually.... :)
While in there. Should have changed the dog bones on the hand break. Too some after market 3mm bigger. It really makes a difference to hand break performance. Un-branded about $25 for set. Not perfect. But better then standard. Will stop a gentle breeze blowing it away on a flat road. :P
Great video! This might be a dumb question but after you've whacked the hub with a rubber mallet and made sure the locking nut no longer tightens wouldn't we want to leave it like so instead of loosening it up and then tightening the locking nut again? I guess I'm trying to comprehend why you'd loosen the nut after the bearings are seated well and then re-tighten it because wouldn't that make the wheel bearings come a little loose? Or once you've seated the wheel bearings well enough and backed off the lock nut and then torqued to spec they'll remain in that place?
Great question. The reason I back it off and retention is to make sure the bearing race isn't slightly off axis and wedged in there a little sideways as opposed to fully seated. The theory is if it's slightly wedged, relieving the pressure off of the nut might allow a second tightening to push the race straight, as opposed to further wedging the race in at an angle.
I've got a 85 troopy. I'm in the USA. Can I buy a kit for this (bearings race seals) ? can you provide details if yes. I can't imagine not making this a weekend project and doing it myself. Most amazing video ever. 100% details and clear and sharp video. thank you. Question 2) Is this the same process for both front and rear?
The kit is from Terrain Tamer here in Australia. There is a video on the channel that details how to rebuild the front of an 80 series which is almost identical to yours.
I first say great work. 2 questions when did Toyota start to use 5 lug hubs on land cruiser rear full float axles and are the bearing the same as those used in Hilux front hub , thanks for any help
If you're talking about standard factory lockers fitted to the 70 series, yes it's a decent idea for alignment purposes, if it's aftermarket like an ARB, it doesn't matter.
Excellent! Question though ... I have a 2020 VDJ79 with factory diff lock. I believe that the rear diff lock needs to be engaged before removing the axle. Is that correct?
I haven't personally done a 79 with a factory diff lock, however I have done an 80 with a factory diff lock and we didn't engage the locker before pulling the axle.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yep, if factory diff lock is installed, then must be engaged before removal of the half shaft. Otherwise there is a risk that the splined sleeve will drop preventing the shift from being reinstalled. So it would become a bigger job. Doesn't always occur and there are some people who have done this without engaging the lock and haven't had any problems. But the Toyota literature apparently specifies the lock must be engaged before removing the shaft.
What DIY mechanics do YOU want to learn about next?
Handbrake adjustment/rebuild/service!
Tall order - anything about working on a 4JX1...and anything about torsion bar suspension front ends.
GU patrol front swivel hub / wheel bearings rebuild, I’ll even volunteer my patrol
Two hours from you, and I’ll supply the parts
@@conellisgreatadventure8864 hmmmm, I've never pulled one apart, though I wouldn't think it would be much different to a 'Cruiser?
i got a 79 and come to your videos first to diagnose, and maintain shit. A true Aussie Mantor! Keep it up mate.
Thanks mate, appreciate the kind words! What other 79 maintenance would you like to see?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing oooooo mate, your take on a turbo replacement or proper intake manifold clean...i know a proper soot clean isnt the easiest job. My utes done 350k and just done new injectors, but need some more thorough V8 attention soon.
BUT just keep doing what you do bloke. We'll all appreciate it.
To get those cone washers out stick a thin bladed slot screwdriver in the split in the cone washer & twist them out, works every time & no hammer needed.
Whack it like it owes you money...hammer head falls off🤣🤣🤣
It'll happen !!! :)
Top video mate you make it look easy I just need the balls to have a go myself cheers
Honestly, it's not that hard, just take your time. I sometimes take photos on my phone as I disassemble things (from multiple angles) to help with the reassembly.
Love your work ,its good how you explain things not just skip over shit ,cheers
Thanks mate!
This is a mint video, im an apprentice for toyota, love to see how to videos of what I do at work, good video mate
Thanks mate, glad you liked the video!
Bloody Excellent Lad....Thank You for Your efforts.
Glad you liked it!
Hot tip: if you don't have a bearing race driver take the old races, grind a slot and weld them together so as to form a smaller diameter. Stack two together and voila. DIY driver.
Great idea!
Good video mate really stepped it up and done heaps better then my one.
Also when ur pull out the rotor and its not coming off back the handbrake adjust screw back a bit or u pull off the handbrake pin thing and stuff those disk things also i had to get a new hub because i took a tooth or 2 off my abs ring thing. Run into problems and u learn from it haha
Can use the old bearing race with a cut in it to install the new ones.
Cant wait to see more of ur vids
Thanks for the tips mate, much appreciated.
Great video thank you! Some good tips in here.
Glad you liked it! :)
To get the axle out put two metric bolts in the two threaded holes in the axle flange (at the 9 & 3 O'clock position @2.31) & wind them in with a spanner to pull the axle out, easy peasy, no hammer needed.
M6 metric thread from memory. Though I've also come across several that have been so clogged up with junk i wasn't able to start the bolt, so I tend not to use them.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing You can clean them out with a pick & WD40, beats flogging the flange.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing fill them with silicone, makes a plug thats easily removed with a pick :)
@@scod3908 great idea!
Excellent video !
Thanks!
Excellent tutorial thanks mate.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Could you do a tutorial on removing the rear brake shoes. It would be much appreciated.
Keep up the great work 🧑🔧
This video was a great help to me replacing the rear bearings and seals on my 2006 series 78 Troopie.
You indicated that you had a problem with the thread of one of the axle retaining studs. Please can you let me know what the thread size is. Metric ?
Thanks for a real informative video,
I'm glad it helped, sorry I don't remember the thread size
Thanks for taking the time to reply. All good keep up the good work.@@LockyourHubs4WDing
G'day, did you have to drop the diff oil prior to doing this?
Great video, cheers
No, not at all.
Excellent vid. Thanks and subbed
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks mate, great info, I picked up a few great points there. Just one question, why the gasket sealant on both edges of the rear seal? Aren’t they made to spin? The gasket goo is an adhesive?
Great pickup, they're not standard seals, they're double lipped. Both the outter and inner stay stationary and only the middle moves. They're great when conventional seals have worn a groove that can't easily be replaced like a rear spindle.
Terrain Tamer sell them.
Where did you get the grunts calibrated? That was good to watch...there are details there that I didn't know about, so thanks. Please excuse my silly comment re grunts...I just can't help myself. I'm in that age bracket, so, really what do you expect?
Decent question!
I uses a NATA cetified test laboratory to calibrate my grunts. It's important to maintain your calibration and get recertified annually.... :)
outstanding.
Thanks!
Great video
Thanks!
While in there.
Should have changed the dog bones on the hand break. Too some after market 3mm bigger. It really makes a difference to hand break performance. Un-branded about $25 for set.
Not perfect. But better then standard. Will stop a gentle breeze blowing it away on a flat road. :P
Hahahaha, I asked the owner about the park brake. He told me that's what first gear was for!
Since when do Landcruiser''s have handbrakes ? :) ..
Nothing stops a LandCruiser, not even the park brake!
Great video! This might be a dumb question but after you've whacked the hub with a rubber mallet and made sure the locking nut no longer tightens wouldn't we want to leave it like so instead of loosening it up and then tightening the locking nut again? I guess I'm trying to comprehend why you'd loosen the nut after the bearings are seated well and then re-tighten it because wouldn't that make the wheel bearings come a little loose? Or once you've seated the wheel bearings well enough and backed off the lock nut and then torqued to spec they'll remain in that place?
Great question.
The reason I back it off and retention is to make sure the bearing race isn't slightly off axis and wedged in there a little sideways as opposed to fully seated.
The theory is if it's slightly wedged, relieving the pressure off of the nut might allow a second tightening to push the race straight, as opposed to further wedging the race in at an angle.
Copper hammer and copper chizel..nice
Brass, though copper would work just as well.
Excellent
Thanks!
Tq mate
You're welcome!
I've got a 85 troopy. I'm in the USA. Can I buy a kit for this (bearings race seals) ? can you provide details if yes. I can't imagine not making this a weekend project and doing it myself. Most amazing video ever. 100% details and clear and sharp video. thank you.
Question 2) Is this the same process for both front and rear?
Forgot to add I have a FJ75
The kit is from Terrain Tamer here in Australia. There is a video on the channel that details how to rebuild the front of an 80 series which is almost identical to yours.
Hi, just wondering why you included 'HILUX' in the title of this informative video ... what Hilux has full-floating axles? Cheers, PJ
Good point! I'll have to adjust the title.
Excellent video cheers mate
Thanks!
I first say great work. 2 questions when did Toyota start to use 5 lug hubs on land cruiser rear full float axles and are the bearing the same as those used in Hilux front hub , thanks for any help
The five lug first came out in the 105 series and the 79 series
Do I need to lock the diff before removing the axle?
If you're talking about standard factory lockers fitted to the 70 series, yes it's a decent idea for alignment purposes, if it's aftermarket like an ARB, it doesn't matter.
Excellent! Question though ... I have a 2020 VDJ79 with factory diff lock. I believe that the rear diff lock needs to be engaged before removing the axle. Is that correct?
I haven't personally done a 79 with a factory diff lock, however I have done an 80 with a factory diff lock and we didn't engage the locker before pulling the axle.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I'm sure the diff lock needs to be engaged. I'll do some research and get back to you. 👍
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yep, if factory diff lock is installed, then must be engaged before removal of the half shaft. Otherwise there is a risk that the splined sleeve will drop preventing the shift from being reinstalled. So it would become a bigger job. Doesn't always occur and there are some people who have done this without engaging the lock and haven't had any problems. But the Toyota literature apparently specifies the lock must be engaged before removing the shaft.
Thanks, I must check the factory service manual for the 80 as well.
Only @ Short axle side where the locker sits
should there be an axle seal in the end of the spindle ?
There is! It's replaced in the video.
Land cruiser hub rebuild
I've already done that! 😄
Hilux isn’t a full float is it?
You're right! I should edit the title.
How do you find the Milwaukee impact wrench?
Almost as good as my Makita :)
What’s the best blue seal goop to use mate?
Permatex mate.