The wool thingee needs metal washers top and bottom. Your rebuild kit did not include those but they may have been attached to the old one you discarded.
Just found this video and your channel, you gained another subscriber. 😎 I am working on my 1978 HD Sportster XLCR that I found at an estate sale, wasn't smart enough to leave it there because the price was too good (???). It sat in a shed for 25+ years while the engine went to play 1/4 mile at a time. He rebuilt the engine and put it back in the original frame before he passed. So, a lot of small parts are missing and some assembly required, it is a learning experience. That is the history, now to the present. I am starting at the front of the bike and working to the back. New tire, wheel bearings cleaned and lubed, steering stem bearings cleaned and lubed, new fork oil. Front master cylinder was dry and crusty, got it apart and cleaned and put in a rebuild kit two nights ago. About to start on the wheel cylinders that are semi frozen. Most of this is new to me, my Panhead engined 1981 FX was in much better shape when I bought it 25 years ago. I have the HD shop manual for the Sportster but it isn't always clear to a mechanic impersonator like me. When you put the gasket on the cover it was upside down and you said to put the gasket plastic side up, gasket side down, confused me, I couldn't decide which way to install it since the original was mostly missing on mine. Could you clarify, does the plastic go against the cover or the body of the master cylinder? I have been engaging in overkill, I set up my 1/2" thick flat plate glass with fine sandpaper and carefully polished and flattened the gasket surfaces on the cover and reservoir, the cover wasn't even close. Trying to correct things to save problems later. Thanks for any help.
I'm not going to lie to you here, I just took this apart and put it back together the way it was. Follow what your manual says for sure. Don't be scared to buy a repop cover if yours is too corroded or ate away, brake fluid is hell on parts.
I found that aceton works well. Just place it there for a hour.. then later I take a sheet of sand paper like 800 grid roll it to tube size like inner diameter and just spin inside and clean it.. Also often find that repair kit piston is oversize and you need to sand it also .. Did that stuff yesterday.. so it still fresh in my head. by the way silicon based fluid is less aggressive and more friendly to rubber parts🖐
This one is just discolored. It didn't need to get sanded out. The other one with the chunky fluid, it's going to need a bit of work, lol. I can't talk to the piston size. They have always been correct for me. Either 5/8" or 9/16". And everything else, the caliper and brake line, require dot3 compatible brake fluid. So that's what I'm lubing things up with.
@@DWchopshop I see... I just quit using DOT 3 or dot4 or any dot5.1 ext just using dot 5 full silicon. Its much more expensive , but less hazard . Thanks for good content, keep wrenching!
Hello. I am from Portugal anda i have a '75 ironhead 1000. I have this master cylinder on my bike. I have try to repair whith the same kit that reains in the cylinder but it does´t work. So, where can i buy the kit? Thanks
estou copiando isso do google tradutor, peço desculpas se estiver errado. o cilindro é preso por um clipe C. você pode, mas este kit dos ciclos j e p, eles são enviados internacionalmente. você poderá baratear um kit semelhante se encontrar um local próximo que venda anéis de vedação resistentes ao petróleo.
Obrigado pela ajuda. Diga-me uma coisa, se eu tentar bombear com a tampa de fecho aberta, a bomba devia funcionar? é que coloquei os vedantes mas o óleo não chega a sair. Tem compressão mas não chega a sair o óleo .... Obrigado
I have a second question. The wiring is a mess on mine, I may have less hair before I am done. The front brake switch is in my master cylinder (minus the rubber boot) and I presume that there should be wires connected to it, no evidence of them left on mine. Could you show how they should be attached when you assemble yours so I can get mine working? It is the same master cylinder. Thanks again.
Alright, so this brake assy. is already back on and moving down the road. But your brake switch is just a simple switch. there is no positive or negative terminal, it doesn't matter which wire goes where. The OEM connections would be soldered in place, but a lot of people use small spade crimp connections. I prefer soldering myself.
The wool thingee needs metal washers top and bottom. Your rebuild kit did not include those but they may have been attached to the old one you discarded.
Just found this video and your channel, you gained another subscriber. 😎
I am working on my 1978 HD Sportster XLCR that I found at an estate sale, wasn't smart enough to leave it there because the price was too good (???). It sat in a shed for 25+ years while the engine went to play 1/4 mile at a time. He rebuilt the engine and put it back in the original frame before he passed. So, a lot of small parts are missing and some assembly required, it is a learning experience. That is the history, now to the present. I am starting at the front of the bike and working to the back. New tire, wheel bearings cleaned and lubed, steering stem bearings cleaned and lubed, new fork oil. Front master cylinder was dry and crusty, got it apart and cleaned and put in a rebuild kit two nights ago. About to start on the wheel cylinders that are semi frozen. Most of this is new to me, my Panhead engined 1981 FX was in much better shape when I bought it 25 years ago. I have the HD shop manual for the Sportster but it isn't always clear to a mechanic impersonator like me. When you put the gasket on the cover it was upside down and you said to put the gasket plastic side up, gasket side down, confused me, I couldn't decide which way to install it since the original was mostly missing on mine. Could you clarify, does the plastic go against the cover or the body of the master cylinder? I have been engaging in overkill, I set up my 1/2" thick flat plate glass with fine sandpaper and carefully polished and flattened the gasket surfaces on the cover and reservoir, the cover wasn't even close. Trying to correct things to save problems later. Thanks for any help.
I'm not going to lie to you here, I just took this apart and put it back together the way it was. Follow what your manual says for sure. Don't be scared to buy a repop cover if yours is too corroded or ate away, brake fluid is hell on parts.
I found that aceton works well. Just place it there for a hour.. then later I take a sheet of sand paper like 800 grid roll it to tube size like inner diameter and just spin inside and clean it.. Also often find that repair kit piston is oversize and you need to sand it also .. Did that stuff yesterday.. so it still fresh in my head. by the way silicon based fluid is less aggressive and more friendly to rubber parts🖐
This one is just discolored. It didn't need to get sanded out. The other one with the chunky fluid, it's going to need a bit of work, lol. I can't talk to the piston size. They have always been correct for me. Either 5/8" or 9/16". And everything else, the caliper and brake line, require dot3 compatible brake fluid. So that's what I'm lubing things up with.
@@DWchopshop I see... I just quit using DOT 3 or dot4 or any dot5.1 ext just using dot 5 full silicon. Its much more expensive , but less hazard . Thanks for good content, keep wrenching!
✌😎
Hello.
I am from Portugal anda i have a '75 ironhead 1000.
I have this master cylinder on my bike.
I have try to repair whith the same kit that reains in the cylinder but it does´t work.
So, where can i buy the kit?
Thanks
estou copiando isso do google tradutor, peço desculpas se estiver errado. o cilindro é preso por um clipe C. você pode, mas este kit dos ciclos j e p, eles são enviados internacionalmente. você poderá baratear um kit semelhante se encontrar um local próximo que venda anéis de vedação resistentes ao petróleo.
Obrigado pela ajuda.
Diga-me uma coisa, se eu tentar bombear com a tampa de fecho aberta, a bomba devia funcionar? é que coloquei os vedantes mas o óleo não chega a sair. Tem compressão mas não chega a sair o óleo ....
Obrigado
Wish you would have gave it a good cleaning
Customer wanted to keep the bike grungy. Not much I can do about that.
😎👍😎
Maybe you don't live in America..
Maybe you live in California..😄🤣😄
I have a second question. The wiring is a mess on mine, I may have less hair before I am done. The front brake switch is in my master cylinder (minus the rubber boot) and I presume that there should be wires connected to it, no evidence of them left on mine. Could you show how they should be attached when you assemble yours so I can get mine working? It is the same master cylinder. Thanks again.
Alright, so this brake assy. is already back on and moving down the road. But your brake switch is just a simple switch. there is no positive or negative terminal, it doesn't matter which wire goes where. The OEM connections would be soldered in place, but a lot of people use small spade crimp connections. I prefer soldering myself.