Thanks for posting this video. I just had the same issue on my 05 ultra classic and this was very helpful. Just completed it last night in about an hour or so. My master cylinder was nasty and filled with lots of sediment I think because I found the plunger seal had failed and allowed dirt in. I ended up flushing the whole system to be safe.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. It was clear and understandable. Now I've got to get up the nerve/confidence to tear into it. I think i'll make sure my experienced friend is in town the day I start.
This is CRAZY im not even sure why i watched this (tell i knew) , ive done this job 20 times on my 2 bikes both work great but i swear in a video some where when I 1st started rebuilding my brakes, that the cap seal was flipped over not the way you showed me, but boy does that make alot of since as to why ive popped couple of them things out....BIGG THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO, ILLL be spending tomoror rebuildin both bakes the correct way....OPPS....
I had a master cylinder kit and front brake switch replaced and still have issues with brake light on. Been working to figure this out forever. Probably kit was defective because lever doesn’t snap back like in your video. Great video! Thanks
Nice job and a real good video. I have the same brake light trouble on my Sportster - hoping the rebuild kit fixes it. I esp like how you bled the line. If I understand it correctly as long as the tube stays immersed in the brake fluid you can keep pumping the lever until the bubbles are gone. I always do the old open-pump-close-repeat thing: your way looks easier and quicker. Thanks again for the tips - stuff I would not have remembered to do (or thought of at all). I appreciate it!
Honestly it is really easy with the syringe. I did it last week for my clutch master cylinder and flushed out both front an rear breaks. Just put in half a syringe at a time and suck out half at a time from the reservoir and you will be impressed at how easy it is.
@@YogisCycleService Yeah you were right. I bought a 250ml syringe and it worked great. Pushing fluid up through the caliper and into the m/c makes so much sense and it's easier than the old way. You just go slow and when you're done you know for sure there can't be any air in the brake line. Now I just need to figure out why the new spring didn't fix my brake light the way it fixed yours in the video. The switch is new, the switch housing and brake lever are aligned but still the damn light stays on. Arrgh! But I'll figure it out eventually!
rcanoli99 awesome feedback thank you!! Hmmm. If you take the M/C off and use your finger to depress the button does that work? Maybe eliminate the variables step by step?
@@YogisCycleService Thanks for the thoughts - yes the brake switch works fine by hand. My setup is a bit different than the bike in your video. There's a pushrod that meets the nub on the brake switch and it was slipping up and down so I figured the spring was worn, not applying enough pressure to keep the pushrod aligned. But the new spring went in fine and the action at the lever feels alright. But the light is still stuck on. It might just be the alignment of the switch housing and brake I'll keep fiddling with it, eventually I'll get 'er working right. Thanks again for your advice I appreciate it!
Hey bro - I wanted to let you know how I finally solved the trouble. I installed a banjo pressure switch and bypassed the OEM brake switch completely. Now it works like it should so thank goodness that's over. Just have to tidy up the wires a bit. Thanks for your help!
Make things easier for anyone take an air chuck and blow into where the banjo bolt goes in on the master cylinder and the whole thing comes right out perfectly.
Dot 4 is hygroscopic, that means it absorbs moisture it dose not attract as some will say. This is why there are two different boiling points. Dry (no moisture) and wet full saturation. Dot 5 will not absorb moisture this leads to another issue. The moisture still gets in the system. The water is heavier than the fluid, it migrates to the brake calipers and over time can rust, or in cold weather freeze. Either issue is bad. On most Harleys the brakes are not being used to the point of vaporizing the water from heat. In a car yes and then you have no brakes. Important to change out that fluid no matter DOT4 or DOT5, also DOT5.1 is not a better DOT5 its a better DOT3/4. Sorry for getting all techey. Dot 3/4 will also remove paint. DOT5 is not as caustic to paint. You could have just opened the bleeder on the caliper to drain the fluid and then the line would be dry. Carb cleaner may have oils in it brake cleaner does not. Glad you washed it. Here is a little trick, when using a torx and your not sure about size, if you think you have the correct one, try one size up. If it fits use that. They do strip easy. Now you need to do the rear master cylinder. It is in the same shape as the front. And for those that have a hydro clutch do that one too. Every two years is recommended. Yea I know we dont. Mr Yogi, I only comment these things to help. It is in no way a one up thing. I have been turning wrenches for a long time. Just passing on some info that may help in the future.
Thank you for the information. I am doing a rebuild of the front brake system on my 03, RK. I had the brake lines changed awhile back to the chrome "skinny" braided lines. I also changed it from one line hitting a splitter to two separate lines, one for each caliper. My only question Im not sure what DOT fluid is in my system now. I will vacuum out the old fluid and clean it spotless so what flavor DOT should I use as the new stuff...????
@@raymondpontremoli2489 03 would be DOT5 You need to keep the same fluid because it has been absorbed into the rubber parts i.e. the seals in the master and caliper and lining of the brake lines. They will swell if the two types are mixed and that is bad. Go to a Bike shop and get fluid like Bel-Ray, Motul, any name brand. Might seem pricey but it is your brakes. Stay away from a auto parts store chain. There is a difference.
@@chuckhabrack3330 Im changing all the seals in the master cylinder and calipers. Im doing a complete rebuild. I am not however, changing the brake lines. I have no idea what fluid was used after he changed the lines...I called him and he doesn't remember....change the lines..??? really didn't want to do that...
@@raymondpontremoli2489 I will go on a short limb and say it was DOT 5. Harley was only DOT 5 till about 2005-6 then there was a mix of HD using both because Brembo brakes used DOT 4 and the rest used DOT 5. Another but not 100% way to tell is most DOT5 is purple. The other are clear/yellowish. YES some make DOT5 clear but if it is or has a purple look to it its is DOT 5.
Hey Yogi, question. Once you install the master brake cylinder on the bars. Do you add dot 5 into reservoir? Than bleed both sides of the front brakes until you see no air and purple coming thru?
superb gave me little insight yogi cycles please can you tele like you had mentioned earlier that this is a road king how much did the batwing faring cost in case I decide to fit one on my bike
Please may I have your number I can give w mine want to send some pictures of my bike on what’s app if you are ok with it my number in india +919823022221 Viraf Surty
@@virafsurty5023 Hey my man, I dont really like giving my phone number our but if you google Dragonfly Cycle Concepts you will see where I got my old fairing from. I was very pleased and they have a gallery there so you can see your make and model and all the info you probably need to know
Hello and thank you for the video.... I have a question regarding my 95 softail custom. Rear brake drags and I've had the caliper rebuilt, cylinder replaced and brake line replaced. Still dragging... Any suggestion?? Thank you for any ideas.
Guillermo Minoso wow well that sounds like you hit it all. There is another UA-camr called saddle tramp that I know has a video out there on a softail about the same era that had the same issue I believe and he walks through it step by step starting at the master cylinder and working back to the caliper to find where the breakdown is. I would suggest checking out that video and seeing if following those steps helps you isolate the issue. Since you replaced all of the components however you probably need to isolate each area to find the issue short of the brake lever pivot point but I doubt that’s the issue, but then again that’s the only spot maybe you haven’t checked yet.
@@YogisCycleService Thank you for the reply! I was thinking the same thing since a parking lot attendant backed a car into my bike and knocked it over on that side, since then I've had the problem. I'm also going to flush the brake fluid to eliminate that one as well. Thank you again for your interest in helping me.. Best regards!
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a similar situation with my 08 Dyna Street Bob. Before I tear into it, maybe you can help decide whether or not it’s worth rebuilding the cylinder? My front brake will not compress at all. I’m confident the strongest man in the world couldn’t compress it. Although, I loosened the banjo bolt and it compressed. I tried to open and bleed the brake system but I couldn’t get it to bleed. With the banjo bolt closed, the lever just will not compress. I’m at a loss. I don’t think it’s the brake cylinder. Could it be the line or the brake calipers?
That is a great question and honestly youre going to have to test each component to see where the clog is. If its in the master cylinder, the break lines or the caliper itself. If you loosened the bolt and it compressed I imagine the clog is somewhere after the master cylinder and is in either the line or the caliper. I imagine the next step is to disconnect the line from the caliper and see if when compressing the lever if you have pressure at the end of the line.
You’re correct. I went down the line and when I loosened the lower banjo bolt on the caliper, it started flowing. Everything works great. Flushed the lines and she’s good to go!
Nice video. I have question , how did u get the plunger into the cylinder with out ripping the plunger? I noticed as u were putting the plunger into the cylinder the video skipped as if u stopped it then it restarted and u had it in. I have a kit I bought from a well company but it seems that the plunger was to big for the cylinder and I tore the plunger. The bore is 11/ 16 and the kit says 11/16. Was there something u did to make it fit?
@Yogi's Cycle Service Thank you... I Didn't want to get confused seeing that the new spring and old look different... My new one I just got in my kit is that of your old spring
Ram Kav hey my man thanks for watching. I haven’t done the clutch side yet but I assume so yes. But a service manual and check it out to be sure. I am probably gonna do a video on flushing that side soon because I think I need to. Stay safe
My front brake handle bar is super stiff. Cant even squeeze it. I think the fluid is just garbage. I want to flush it but its an ABS Road King. Think I can use this process?
tangled Line hey my man thanks for watching. I have a video out there for flushing that works awesome on abs bikes because it’s a reverse flush. Try that and if that doesn’t work look to the calibers because maybe they need to be cleaned out from brake dust binding up the pistons.
@@tangledline Tangled I have a customer with the same symptom coming over tomorrow for us to fix it weather permitting. If the rain holds off we will be cleaning his calipers and flushing the full system front and back. That said I plan on recording it and putting it up in the next week or so. His issue is on the rear but should be the same process as the front.
@@YogisCycleService looking forward to it. On my end turns out my front line was either collapsed or crapped. Fluid came out of banjo top master...but not out the lines..so procrastinating on the line...lol
W B it has to go to the dealer if you get air bubbles in a abs system. Apparently from what I understand they need to bleed the lines and hook the abs module up to the computer to clear codes and reset the module. If you look at my channel for a video I have on reverse bleeding I show you how to flush and bleed lines without introducing air into the system and avoid taking it to the dealer. Yes I have reused those washers before but usually repair kits come with new ones and if you have now washers you mind as well use them. Yes those banjo bolt washers I call crush washers.
My 2013 ultra has the abs. Front brake would not actuate the calipers no matter how hard you squeeze. I tried to bleed down to the calipers one at a time (with a vacuum brake bleeder couldn’t get anything out so pulled banjo on hand brake and it would push fluid out easily. Next pulled right side banjo at caliper and squeezing and trying the vacuum nothing! Other side nothing. With both loose nothing! Puzzled. So I located the line to the rear abs box from hand brake cracked it loose and the got fluid out. Bled to there until I got new fluid. Tightened the banjo at the module then was able to bleed both calipers. But noticed now when I squeezed the brake lever it was slowly going all the way in. So bought a kit to rebuild it. Am I going to have to take this thing to a dealer to get it reprogrammed. I am afraid to turn on the bike because I have heard that sometimes the brakes will lock up and you can’t move the bike. If that happens I’m screwed. What’s your thoughts? Thanks Keith
I thought your supposed to put a piece of cardboard in the brake handle to slightly apply the brake when installing the M/C to clear the brake switch????
I see why you skipped the seating of the plastic boot part..man that was a bitch to get in there. Sticking brake light is fixed though, thanks for the video!
@@YogisCycleService i just rebuilt the reservoir and the front brake caliper on my 04 Dyna, but I learned my lesson about the cardboard under the brake lever on a 2011 sportster I had. Great video man, I always loosen the banjo bolt before loosening the mounting screws however. That being said, everyone does things their own way. Great content, think I'm gonna subscribe .
Joseph Woolverton agreed. Sorry this was one of my early videos when I was recording on a cell phone and didn’t have half of the stuff I use today for lighting or cameras.
There is no way I would let this guy work on my bike, he takes things lose in the wrong order and makes the work harder for himself and the work to take longer than what it should as well. Plus he is just redundant.
GaryLordsWayMinistry hey your call my man and I respect that but remember there are more then 1 way to skin a cat and bottom line is the bike was fixed and the customer was happy and at the end of the day that’s all I care about. Is it fixed and is the customer happy.
Pathetic. Using tools on the bike and not covering the tank and fender to protect them - inexcusable on a customer’s bike. Not having a simple syringe? Really? Spilling brake fluid all over trying to mop it up. WTF? This is just too sad to watch.
To the point, clear and exactly what I needed to see.
Awesome thank you
Awesome Video !!
Exactly the Info Needed to Cure the Brake Light Problem..
Thanks !!!
Awesome glad it helped!!
Thanks for posting this video. I just had the same issue on my 05 ultra classic and this was very helpful. Just completed it last night in about an hour or so. My master cylinder was nasty and filled with lots of sediment I think because I found the plunger seal had failed and allowed dirt in. I ended up flushing the whole system to be safe.
Awesome my man glad it helped and thank you for your comment.
Great video, just what I was looking for. Much appreciated.
Awesome!! Thank you for commenting
Thanks for taking the time to post this video. It was clear and understandable.
Now I've got to get up the nerve/confidence to tear into it. I think i'll make sure my experienced friend is in town the day I start.
D Bechtel awesome good luck and thank you!!
Thanks for a great rebuild prsentation
Thank you!
This is CRAZY im not even sure why i watched this (tell i knew) , ive done this job 20 times on my 2 bikes both work great but i swear in a video some where when I 1st started rebuilding my brakes, that the cap seal was flipped over not the way you showed me, but boy does that make alot of since as to why ive popped couple of them things out....BIGG THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO, ILLL be spending tomoror rebuildin both bakes the correct way....OPPS....
I had a master cylinder kit and front brake switch replaced and still have issues with brake light on. Been working to figure this out forever. Probably kit was defective because lever doesn’t snap back like in your video. Great video! Thanks
Great video - I appreciate attention to detail
Man, great video. This is the exact problem I am having. I can wait to do this next week to fix it!
Awesome! I hope it helps and thank you for watching!
Thank you. Great video
Great video.....thanks
Just want to say thank you for the video. Makes it easy for people like me.
Well awesome and thank you for watching!!!
Thanks just as I suspected it would be, now I'll tackle mine, my piston came with o ring already installed.
Nice job and a real good video. I have the same brake light trouble on my Sportster - hoping the rebuild kit fixes it.
I esp like how you bled the line. If I understand it correctly as long as the tube stays immersed in the brake fluid you can keep pumping the lever until the bubbles are gone. I always do the old open-pump-close-repeat thing: your way looks easier and quicker.
Thanks again for the tips - stuff I would not have remembered to do (or thought of at all). I appreciate it!
Honestly it is really easy with the syringe. I did it last week for my clutch master cylinder and flushed out both front an rear breaks. Just put in half a syringe at a time and suck out half at a time from the reservoir and you will be impressed at how easy it is.
@@YogisCycleService Yeah you were right. I bought a 250ml syringe and it worked great. Pushing fluid up through the caliper and into the m/c makes so much sense and it's easier than the old way. You just go slow and when you're done you know for sure there can't be any air in the brake line.
Now I just need to figure out why the new spring didn't fix my brake light the way it fixed yours in the video. The switch is new, the switch housing and brake lever are aligned but still the damn light stays on. Arrgh! But I'll figure it out eventually!
rcanoli99 awesome feedback thank you!! Hmmm. If you take the M/C off and use your finger to depress the button does that work? Maybe eliminate the variables step by step?
@@YogisCycleService Thanks for the thoughts - yes the brake switch works fine by hand. My setup is a bit different than the bike in your video. There's a pushrod that meets the nub on the brake switch and it was slipping up and down so I figured the spring was worn, not applying enough pressure to keep the pushrod aligned. But the new spring went in fine and the action at the lever feels alright. But the light is still stuck on. It might just be the alignment of the switch housing and brake I'll keep fiddling with it, eventually I'll get 'er working right.
Thanks again for your advice I appreciate it!
Hey bro - I wanted to let you know how I finally solved the trouble. I installed a banjo pressure switch and bypassed the OEM brake switch completely. Now it works like it should so thank goodness that's over. Just have to tidy up the wires a bit. Thanks for your help!
Thank you for the brake class. ☮️
Make things easier for anyone take an air chuck and blow into where the banjo bolt goes in on the master cylinder and the whole thing comes right out perfectly.
Might work. Might not. Corroded barrel will need pliers.
Very useful video thanks a punch!
Well done !!
Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!!
Dot 4 is hygroscopic, that means it absorbs moisture it dose not attract as some will say. This is why there are two different boiling points. Dry (no moisture) and wet full saturation. Dot 5 will not absorb moisture this leads to another issue. The moisture still gets in the system. The water is heavier than the fluid, it migrates to the brake calipers and over time can rust, or in cold weather freeze. Either issue is bad. On most Harleys the brakes are not being used to the point of vaporizing the water from heat. In a car yes and then you have no brakes. Important to change out that fluid no matter DOT4 or DOT5, also DOT5.1 is not a better DOT5 its a better DOT3/4. Sorry for getting all techey. Dot 3/4 will also remove paint. DOT5 is not as caustic to paint. You could have just opened the bleeder on the caliper to drain the fluid and then the line would be dry. Carb cleaner may have oils in it brake cleaner does not. Glad you washed it.
Here is a little trick, when using a torx and your not sure about size, if you think you have the correct one, try one size up. If it fits use that. They do strip easy.
Now you need to do the rear master cylinder. It is in the same shape as the front. And for those that have a hydro clutch do that one too. Every two years is recommended. Yea I know we dont.
Mr Yogi, I only comment these things to help. It is in no way a one up thing. I have been turning wrenches for a long time. Just passing on some info that may help in the future.
Thank you for the information. I am doing a rebuild of the front brake system on my 03, RK. I had the brake lines changed awhile back to the chrome "skinny" braided lines. I also changed it from one line hitting a splitter to two separate lines, one for each caliper. My only question Im not sure what DOT fluid is in my system now. I will vacuum out the old fluid and clean it spotless so what flavor DOT should I use as the new stuff...????
@@raymondpontremoli2489 03 would be DOT5 You need to keep the same fluid because it has been absorbed into the rubber parts i.e. the seals in the master and caliper and lining of the brake lines. They will swell if the two types are mixed and that is bad. Go to a Bike shop and get fluid like Bel-Ray, Motul, any name brand. Might seem pricey but it is your brakes. Stay away from a auto parts store chain. There is a difference.
@@chuckhabrack3330 Im changing all the seals in the master cylinder and calipers. Im doing a complete rebuild. I am not however, changing the brake lines. I have no idea what fluid was used after he changed the lines...I called him and he doesn't remember....change the lines..??? really didn't want to do that...
@@raymondpontremoli2489 I will go on a short limb and say it was DOT 5. Harley was only DOT 5 till about 2005-6 then there was a mix of HD using both because Brembo brakes used DOT 4 and the rest used DOT 5. Another but not 100% way to tell is most DOT5 is purple. The other are clear/yellowish. YES some make DOT5 clear but if it is or has a purple look to it its is DOT 5.
@@chuckhabrack3330 Awesome, thank you for the hints and advise. I will get the fluid you mentioned in the other reply...
Good job I will be doing mine shortly on a 95 roadking Thx
Lisa Kowalski thank you for watching and commenting!!
Hey Yogi, question. Once you install the master brake cylinder on the bars. Do you add dot 5 into reservoir? Than bleed both sides of the front brakes until you see no air and purple coming thru?
Also should dot 5 be filled all the way in the reservoir?
I think I’d test the brake to see if it worked. Glad the light is fixed, that’s the most important thing.
Albert Backauskas we did. We took it for a ride and worked perfectly. Thanks!
superb gave me little insight yogi cycles please can you tele like you had mentioned earlier that this is a road king how much did the batwing faring cost in case I decide to fit one on my bike
Viraf Surty I bought one a few years ago and I paid $825 for it. I was very happy with it too.
Yogi's Cycle Service I’m based in india let me find out if they can get one for me but I’m happy with my Road king with out one
Please may I have your number I can give w mine want to send some pictures of my bike on what’s app if you are ok with it my number in india +919823022221 Viraf Surty
@@YogisCycleService are you on what's app can you share your numbers you are on what's app I'm from India
@@virafsurty5023 Hey my man, I dont really like giving my phone number our but if you google Dragonfly Cycle Concepts you will see where I got my old fairing from. I was very pleased and they have a gallery there so you can see your make and model and all the info you probably need to know
Im doing mine this spring. Seal is leaking and the brake is not releasing. Looking at the caliper as well
Thanks dude. Got my brakes working.
Vincent Martinez awesome and thank you for commenting!!
Great Video thank you.! Can you tell me what size hose that is for bleeding the brakes.
Brent Manzella Yes great question and I will post a link later. For now 1/4 inch inner diameter three eights inch outer diameter tubing
Brent Manzella 10 foot of it was a couple dollars at Lowe’s hardware store
@@YogisCycleService Thank you
Awesome, I needed this👍🏻
Dagum, I coated with DOT 5 and did the little twist and still tore that first piece of rubber going in.
Dang man, sorry. I hope you were able to get it fixed
@@YogisCycleService got me another rebuild kit for a different dealer and it fit in no problem. Front brakes are working! Thank you!
@@TFitz sweet that’s awesome. Glad it helped!!
Thank you so much! Exactly the problem I have ! May be you could tell me what is the reference of the replace kit?
I think I have it listed in the comments. I believe there is a link there
It was very informative though thank you
Hello and thank you for the video.... I have a question regarding my 95 softail custom. Rear brake drags and I've had the caliper rebuilt, cylinder replaced and brake line replaced. Still dragging... Any suggestion??
Thank you for any ideas.
Guillermo Minoso wow well that sounds like you hit it all. There is another UA-camr called saddle tramp that I know has a video out there on a softail about the same era that had the same issue I believe and he walks through it step by step starting at the master cylinder and working back to the caliper to find where the breakdown is. I would suggest checking out that video and seeing if following those steps helps you isolate the issue. Since you replaced all of the components however you probably need to isolate each area to find the issue short of the brake lever pivot point but I doubt that’s the issue, but then again that’s the only spot maybe you haven’t checked yet.
@@YogisCycleService Thank you for the reply!
I was thinking the same thing since a parking lot attendant backed a car into my bike and knocked it over on that side, since then I've had the problem. I'm also going to flush the brake fluid to eliminate that one as well.
Thank you again for your interest in helping me..
Best regards!
Thank you for this tutorial. I have a similar situation with my 08 Dyna Street Bob. Before I tear into it, maybe you can help decide whether or not it’s worth rebuilding the cylinder? My front brake will not compress at all. I’m confident the strongest man in the world couldn’t compress it. Although, I loosened the banjo bolt and it compressed. I tried to open and bleed the brake system but I couldn’t get it to bleed. With the banjo bolt closed, the lever just will not compress. I’m at a loss. I don’t think it’s the brake cylinder. Could it be the line or the brake calipers?
That is a great question and honestly youre going to have to test each component to see where the clog is. If its in the master cylinder, the break lines or the caliper itself. If you loosened the bolt and it compressed I imagine the clog is somewhere after the master cylinder and is in either the line or the caliper. I imagine the next step is to disconnect the line from the caliper and see if when compressing the lever if you have pressure at the end of the line.
You’re correct. I went down the line and when I loosened the lower banjo bolt on the caliper, it started flowing. Everything works great. Flushed the lines and she’s good to go!
Nemat Moosavi awesome!! Glad you found it and sorry for my delay getting back to you
Thanks for this instructional. I need to do this on my bike. My brake light stays on until the pressure builds in the master cylinder.
Your video is excellent
Donald Dillon Thank you sir I appreciate that
Installed the original spring back in?
I took it out off camera and put the right one in. Don’t worry
Nice video. I have question , how did u get the plunger into the cylinder with out ripping the plunger? I noticed as u were putting the plunger into the cylinder the video skipped as if u stopped it then it restarted and u had it in. I have a kit I bought from a well company but it seems that the plunger was to big for the cylinder and I tore the plunger. The bore is 11/ 16 and the kit says 11/16. Was there something u did to make it fit?
Why did you use the old spring?
I switched it out off camera after I realized what I did. Good catch
@Yogi's Cycle Service Thank you... I Didn't want to get confused seeing that the new spring and old look different... My new one I just got in my kit is that of your old spring
Thank you for this video, Is it the same procedure for the clutch master cylinder? I need to replace the whole master cylinder on the left side.
Ram Kav hey my man thanks for watching. I haven’t done the clutch side yet but I assume so yes. But a service manual and check it out to be sure. I am probably gonna do a video on flushing that side soon because I think I need to. Stay safe
super helpful, thank you!
When I do mine, I"m going to crack the banjo bolt loose before I remove the caliper. And I'm going to use a syringe, and snap ring pliers.😉
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the view and the comment
Lol at the wife's Tupperware. Playing with fire 🤣
#truth. Lol
My front brake handle bar is super stiff. Cant even squeeze it. I think the fluid is just garbage. I want to flush it but its an ABS Road King. Think I can use this process?
tangled Line hey my man thanks for watching. I have a video out there for flushing that works awesome on abs bikes because it’s a reverse flush. Try that and if that doesn’t work look to the calibers because maybe they need to be cleaned out from brake dust binding up the pistons.
@@YogisCycleService Brother you are a life saver. Thanks man for quickly responding. Subscribed!
@@tangledline Tangled I have a customer with the same symptom coming over tomorrow for us to fix it weather permitting. If the rain holds off we will be cleaning his calipers and flushing the full system front and back. That said I plan on recording it and putting it up in the next week or so. His issue is on the rear but should be the same process as the front.
@@YogisCycleService looking forward to it. On my end turns out my front line was either collapsed or crapped. Fluid came out of banjo top master...but not out the lines..so procrastinating on the line...lol
tangled Line oh wow. Glad you figured it out
Why is it that the rear ABS can only be done by the dealer ? Also, it's ok to reuse the old banjo washer ? Is that the same as a crush washer ?
W B it has to go to the dealer if you get air bubbles in a abs system. Apparently from what I understand they need to bleed the lines and hook the abs module up to the computer to clear codes and reset the module. If you look at my channel for a video I have on reverse bleeding I show you how to flush and bleed lines without introducing air into the system and avoid taking it to the dealer. Yes I have reused those washers before but usually repair kits come with new ones and if you have now washers you mind as well use them. Yes those banjo bolt washers I call crush washers.
@@YogisCycleService
@@wb4514 yes the banjo washer is a crush washer. I would recommend replacing it if you’re working in there
My 2013 ultra has the abs.
Front brake would not actuate the calipers no matter how hard you squeeze. I tried to bleed down to the calipers one at a time (with a vacuum brake bleeder couldn’t get anything out so pulled banjo on hand brake and it would push fluid out easily. Next pulled right side banjo at caliper and squeezing and trying the vacuum nothing! Other side nothing. With both loose nothing!
Puzzled. So I located the line to the rear abs box from hand brake cracked it loose and the got fluid out. Bled to there until I got new fluid. Tightened the banjo at the module then was able to bleed both calipers. But noticed now when I squeezed the brake lever it was slowly going all the way in. So bought a kit to rebuild it. Am I going to have to take this thing to a dealer to get it reprogrammed. I am afraid to turn on the bike because I have heard that sometimes the brakes will lock up and you can’t move the bike. If that happens I’m screwed.
What’s your thoughts?
Thanks Keith
The washers on the brake line banjo bolt are crush washers and should be replaced each time the brake line is removed.
Yes good point thank you
is this bike ABS?
No it was not
Do you have a link to purchasing the rebuild kit?
Yes I can get one. Hang tight
For Harley (ONLY) Dual Disc models 1996 - 2017 (except 08-17 Dressers, 09-13 FL Trike, 04-17 XL) Does NOT fit single disc models. Replaces Harley OEM # 45072-96. www.amazon.com/Orange-Cycle-Parts-Cylinder-Rebuild/dp/B0747T8MJ7/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/135-9745907-3071053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0747T8MJ7&pd_rd_r=b35b377a-941e-11e9-a88d-27c34bac3539&pd_rd_w=YyoAi&pd_rd_wg=9n3Oc&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=GJ3F89NHRB0HJT1Q809S&psc=1&refRID=GJ3F89NHRB0HJT1Q809S
I thought your supposed to put a piece of cardboard in the brake handle to slightly apply the brake when installing the M/C to clear the brake switch????
Yes that is good practice to do
you put the same spring back in the MC
Yes and it was pulled back out and replaced off camera once I realized I grabbed the wrong one. Good catch
you used the old spring on the rebuild.
Yolanda Lockyer yes I caught that later off camera and swapped it out you are absolutely right and good catch
Good vid, just a little louder please,
Sorry. That was back in the early days when I just used a cell phone. Tried to get better since then. Thank you for your comment
I see why you skipped the seating of the plastic boot part..man that was a bitch to get in there. Sticking brake light is fixed though, thanks for the video!
Ha ha I didnt mean to but yeah it was a pain
Wife's Tupperware 😅😅😅 lol
thanks Yogi!
Ha ha that was one of my oldies. One of the first videos I ever made. Recorded off a cell phone. Didn’t even have a GoPro then
Did no one notice that he put the old spring in the new piston?
link please
You used the old spring lol 🤷♂️
Remove the bango before the torx. And you put the beveled seal in backwards, small end goes towards the piston cap. You charge? Scary.
And he used old spring.. rematch and take note new spring is different at push end lol
Don't forget the cardboard under the brake perch. Shearing the switch sucks...ask me how I know.
Kane theriot ah yes good call
@@YogisCycleService i just rebuilt the reservoir and the front brake caliper on my 04 Dyna, but I learned my lesson about the cardboard under the brake lever on a 2011 sportster I had.
Great video man, I always loosen the banjo bolt before loosening the mounting screws however.
That being said, everyone does things their own way. Great content, think I'm gonna subscribe .
Next time turn on a light so we can see what you're doing and speak a little louder
Joseph Woolverton agreed. Sorry this was one of my early videos when I was recording on a cell phone and didn’t have half of the stuff I use today for lighting or cameras.
Doesn't know the difference between a "gasket" and a "seal".
awaiting your reply
Use WATER when you spill brake fluid on the paint dude, it's basic knowlege.
Bjorn Andersen yes agreed thank you for the tip
%^^^%#^ the Harley Dealer
Rick Clark lol.
There is no way I would let this guy work on my bike, he takes things lose in the wrong order and makes the work harder for himself and the work to take longer than what it should as well. Plus he is just redundant.
GaryLordsWayMinistry hey your call my man and I respect that but remember there are more then 1 way to skin a cat and bottom line is the bike was fixed and the customer was happy and at the end of the day that’s all I care about. Is it fixed and is the customer happy.
And yet you’re here watching his video trying to learn how to do the job. Lol.
Pathetic. Using tools on the bike and not covering the tank and fender to protect them - inexcusable on a customer’s bike. Not having a simple syringe? Really? Spilling brake fluid all over trying to mop it up. WTF? This is just too sad to watch.
Appreciate your critique
great vid, ty