Great job keeping the content coming while the shop in under construction. I was the insurance guy for a number of years. My backyard mechanic and early body shop experience was invaluable in helping to understand the customer's and shop's concerns. I was the guy at the desk with the checkbook, not the estimator who visited the shops. I was one of the few paper shufflers who actually elected to attend training with my field guys and gals, because, unlike many of my peers, I felt it necessary to put eyes and hands on actual damaged cars from time to time. I also held I-Car certifications. Repair shops always know more than those in Ivory Towers.
My experiences with insurance companies left me wondering what the hell those adjuster people are required to know in order to do their job, tbh the last claim incident I had.. I knew how much it would cost to do the job, the persons who were asked to opine on the cost of the job just wrote it off as totaled instead of the truth. Which is about 3k of mostly cosmetic parts with a worst case of 5500 on a $17000+ vehicle. The adjuster and so called mechanic(s) who were asked to bid on it said 25,000 USD. The level of greed or incompetence on that was just mind blowing. I had the whole thing pulled apart over the winter previously due to it being sold with undiagnosed problems, I learned the internals of it over a few months during the winter in my home shop.
Hey Ray. As a wrench up here in Rust Country, USA (Syracuse, NY), I am totally jealous of the condition of the vehicles you get to work on! A 2018 Jeep up here would require half a can of PB Blaster, a torch, air tools and a ton of garage words just to get a hub assembly apart! As always, great to watch you work, my friend! I'm just jealous AF to see how easily many of your projects come apart!
Agreed. I'm a fellow Syracuse area sufferer. Just put new cable ends on my car 's battery cables. They were rotted between the wire and crimped on terminal. Replaced the failed starter too. Everything is now crimped, soldered and sealed with liquid electrical tape and heat shrink tubing. Also applied Barrier Bond rustproofing to the underside. Have already tried Fluid Film, Cosmoline, Crown, and Surface Shield. Fluid Film lasted 3 months. Cosmoline lasted through the winter, as did Crown. Just used Surface Shield on my daughter's car. It looks promising. Used the Barrier Bond on my car. Looks promising.
I am reminded of the service manual for an VW I had in the sixties, the ‘technicians’ wore white lab coats for the illustrations. As I was up to my elbows in dirt and grease.
I'm willing to bet that you left the cotter pins to the end because you knew there would be a bunch of us slowly freaking out because you didn't install them when expected. 😀
just like him doing an oil change. and right after emptying the oil, going to press the START button and fire up the engine. but not actually doing it! lol
I was freaking out about the red hanger thingy, thank you for fixing it, much appreciated. I am amazed at the plethora of tools you have, there is something for every need.
As a train fan, it is a nice subtle addition to your content to hear the horn in the background. Please keep that in the videos, and even capture a locomotive or 6 during your test drives. It would make good icing on the cake for a handful of us.
Hey Ray! Thanks for the upload... couple of things... "suggestions" as we all don't live in Arizona or Florida. Never pull the ABS sensor by the wire. Eric O was probably cringing! Also a little "spritz" of Fluid Film on that rotor hub to bearing face would prevent future "rust bonding" That new tie-rod link better have some mean teeth in it to keep that steering stabilizer in place. Not liking that design. Any slight loosing on that clamp bracket and that thing is going to be walking all over the place.
A lot of upgrades don't always seem like they are. The OEM engineers usually are pretty good with the stuff that stops and steers because they have the safety word to repel accountants.
Things are so much easier when you have a lift and the right set of quality tools. 2023 and we’re still using cotter pins, that were used on covered wagon wheels ;)
the rod ends when I was taught in the 80's was to count the turns when removing old parts put new rods at same amount of turns and wheel alignment will be real close. there is some variance between old and new different manufactures etc. but The wheel alignment guys always told me I basically did the wheel alignment for them in a lot the cases, so they got free money for a wheel alignment that basically was already done. Maybe a tweak here and there but it was always pretty close. I thought all mechanics did it that way. other than that pretty good content. keep it up.
Hiya Ray, super cool video job good job as it helped me straighten my wonky steering on my mobility scooter as I suffer with multiple sclerosis & have done so for the past 25 years approximately 2 weeks ago I had a run in with a massive truck & I came off worse out of the 2 of us so once again excellent video so please keep them coming GL&HF coming from Dulwich London England(✌peace✌)
I think you're equally as good as a videographer and editor as you are a mechanic. Your videos are as good or better than some channels that pay someone else to do that part of the production. Love the daughter unit X-Files thing btw...
Lotta guys just cuss waaay too much like their real tuff when they get bound up and cry about their job while only foreseeing the money from the customers pockets.
It’s great to see an auto body shop that knows what they’re doing. Of course, you can’t see the quality from a video that didn’t showcase (before and after and details) the repair, but it appears to have been very well done. I worked at a dealer that had a terrific body shop. It was rare to even see a slight paint mismatch. My brother used a different shop on the other side of town when he was in a very minor accident and they did a terrible job. They only had to replace the front bumper, the grille and repaint just a tiny spot of paint under the headlight on his new, black F150. The alignment of the bumper was off and the black paint didn’t even match. He took it to our shop to have it fixed again and you couldn’t tell it had ever happened. I had $4k in damage to my Mazda fixed at our shop and to this day, almost 10 years and 250k miles later, you still can’t see where it was ever repaired. My car was also pretty badly damaged in a front end collision when it was on a test drive when it was new. I’ve been through that car I don’t know how many times and I still can’t tell what is original and what was repaired. Collision repair is an art. Some are great and some are not so great.
Great job! I really enjoy the content you provide...FYI all former Dodge products are now - FIAT - fix it again tom or fix again on tues and thursday!!!
Hey Ray - you accidentally used the old nylock from the tie rod ball joint on the lower for the knuckle. So now there's no cotter pin in there. It will "probably" be fine, but it would be responsible to fix it.
Great Job Ray, You the man !! I love how you been adding new equipment to your shop. I really like how the "wife Unit works with you at the shop, she is a big plus to your new success. Very happy for you Ray and I continue to follow you. THUMBS UP !!
Ray, just letting you know, NEVER say that cotter pins aren't needed! Here is why I say that: I own a 1992 Ford Ranger. The suspension is a Twin I-Beam. If you know anything about how Ford used to do wheel bearings, they literally had the inner and outer races included in the front rotors. Well, one time, I was in town, getting ready to get some errands done, and I hear my right front wheel howling like no tomorrow. Limp the truck home, guess what I found? The whole rotor assembly somehow came loose from the knuckle, and the bearings became unusable (they weren't destroyed, given how much grease I put in the assembly when I installed it). Literally, I pull the cotter pin, pull the little light aluminum axle nut cover, take off the axle nut, and the whole thing landed in my hands. That little cotter pin held everything together, until I got home. Had it not been there, I don't know what would have happened. That's my little story for the day. Moral of that story: Never forget cotter pins! They may not just save your life, they may save your car or truck too!
It's a good rule of thumb that if there's a place for a Cotter pin then there needs to be a Cotter pin in that place when you do the job. Beats having to explain to the jury why you didn't put one in.
Fun Tip. If you buy locking lug nuts they usually have an order form to order new keys, so always order extra keys when you buy them. You can also order locking lug nuts with a specific key. At one time all 3 of my cars used the same locking lug nut key.
Ray, my son bought me some pass through sockets for Christmas years ago. I don't really use them alot, but, when I need them, they're extremely handy. Thanks for another Jeep video. Later
Mate I love your videos, I learn so much. I wish I could work on cars but I have pretty chronic arthritis (since my late teens) and I always drop bolts etc. I work on push bikes and I’m constantly dropping ship. The difference is I can sit whilst working on bikes. Keep up the good work brother
Since late teens, man that sucks. Have you looked into St John Wort? If it isn't known to you, it can relieve arthritis pain however it may not be compatible with you and you really need to get advice from a medical professional before taking. If it works for you then it will be a life changer and I really hope for your quality of life improvement that it does. I genuinely wish you well Alexander. 👍
St John’s Wort did nothing for my knees, but it worked wonders for my mom’s hands. Unfortunately, Vicodin is the only thing that helped my knees. And, unfortunately, that stuff is pretty much off limits to anyone in this country unless you have a bone sticking out of your leg.
Pain killing meds will block the pain, but do not stop the activity that causes pain. Medicate heavily and whack your hand with a hammer. You won't feel the pain, but your hand is still broken.
I live in the Deep South, so no cannabis for quite some time. I also have to be able to pass a company drug screen since I occasionally drive a commercial vehicle. I can get away with it with a prescription of opiates, but cannabis is also a no go for company policy.
Unfortunately, and according to about 4 orthopedists, the pain will never be completely alleviated without a surgery that may compromise my knee completely and may necessitate a replacement. Since I’m only 40, I’m not looking for a completely useless knee or a fake one. Both of my parents had replacements and you’re not the same. I still stoop, squat, kneel, twist and bend , just with pain. I’m not interested in losing that ability yet. Right now, I’m maintaining with an unhealthy diet of ibuprofen since the opiates are impossible to get. They don’t help much, but they do a little.
Anyone who has worked on Jeeps/Chrysler products knows this is NOT as easy as Ray makes it! Why Ray is pretty awesome at this! Thank you for another great video
2018+ is the JL, you can easily tell an JK from a JL because of the turn signals and sidemarkers being on the fender flares. 4-door makes it a JL Unlimited (JLU) Don't worry, I got them mixed up for a while too (and still do with YJ and TJ). Nice to see you working on so many Jeeps. if FCA keeps being $@#&s about their warranty on my new 2023, maybe you'll see me drive over there to see you instead someday.
Ray, Hello from Sunny Western Australia. Been watching your video's for a while now, its a pleasure just watching a mechanic who takes pride in his work and is more concerned about the client perception than the normal retail "roll in, roll out, charge 'em lots" mentality as you have mentioned in the past. My local speed-shop mechanic is the same, (I have a modified GC8 Subaru Impreza WRX) its not the time, its not the money, its the fact that when I roll my car into his shop and tell what I think I want fixed (which may be wrong, I'm a computer nerd!), and Tim and his team then does whatever needs to be done to make it right without ripping me off! Good job on going out on your own, if you do the client side right, you will never have a shortage of work!
X Files theme is absolutely perfect. It's a strange sight to see a little one so close to where mechanical work is being done. I know she's being watched, so no criticism, just appreciation of the in joke.
It is therapeutic to see someone working on cars instead of refusing to look at the car and diagnosing based on 2-year-old notes in a computer. If only all mechanics were this competent and honest.
good day to you Ray another outstanding video ive got to say your the best at what you do but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day Ray
Hey Ray! Howdy! Outsider looking in point of view, you have a real knack for upgrades. That was brilliant to look at that as an option AND save money too! That's what I try to explain to people. A mechanic can have experience but couple that with MECHANICAL APTITUDE and COMMON SENSE like you do and it's a win-win for all. I just love the way you do everything. I was playing with the layout of your shop in my head and I was wondering if you had the room for an alignment rack and a COATS machine for tires...(wish there was room for one more lift and a flat stall too but only so much room for now. I LOVE doing industrial planning for work spaces. I actually did consulting for Condo building Maintenance shops layout and equipping. It's a blast! You have to be having fun laying out YOUR OWN shop. No one can envision it like you can. No one else knows how you work. I can't wait to see what comes next. All the best, If I win the lottery, we are sitting down and building you from scratch the end all be all of service facilities. Nothing but the best of everything. Bless you and your family, the X files theme when they show up is always a high point! So cute! Be safe brother and may this year be the best of our lives so far!
From what I can see you did a near perfect job rebuilding that wall, though I question why the wasted effort of tearing it down and then rebuilding it. :P
I am one of those old school guys. Have you ever used a fork to remove the ball joints? I was going to say Cotter pin (key) but you got it at the end. I did notice that the tie rod end boot (Right side) needed to be adjusted. It was not in the grove all the way on the bottom. Another great video.
Great job Ray. Very informative video on how to upgrade/replace work on a vehicle model, l probably won't ever do any practical mechanical work on. Thanks.
Love the music at the end there noticed it right away, the fix was nice then again your fixes with all the explanations are always nice!!! Keep up the great work you do!!! 👍
great work as always, i correct ur pronunciation of some of the parts as we know them different here in scotland lol, u say "cotter pin" i say "split pin", u say "axle" i say "drive shaft", theres alot more but i still love the energy and the fact u like to make sure we can see what ur doing all the time, keep up the greatness
cotter pin - split pin : ok i can deal with that axle - drive shaft : no just no axel - the part of the drive-train that connects one wheel hub assembly to the corresponding one on the other side of a vehicle and transfers power from the drive shaft to the wheel hub assembly drive shaft - the shaft that transfers power from the gearbox to the axel
@@111smd thats a cv joint on the end of the drive shafts lol, an axle is the full assembly that the diff and half shafts are connected too lmao, thats what we know them as here, im also a fully qualified mechanic myself so its interesting to see how others do jobs and name parts
A half shaft is essentially a drive axle that spans roughly half the car, from the wheel to the transaxle or differential. These are equipped with Constant Velocity, or CV, joints.
@@111smd in most cases an axle is a solid assembly containing the drive components for the delivery of power to the wheels, Axles on the whole are mounted across the frame ( chassis), Drive shafts on the other hand are part of an independent suspension system that allows each wheel on each corner of the vehicle to move independently from it's partner wheel on the same axis, the drive to the wheel from the drive shaft is achieved by CV joints so as to allow the wheel to move in either and up and down plane or rotate to the left or right for steerage, So in an Axle the drive shaft/differential are housed internally, but on some models where exposed drive shafts are used they either mount into a transfer case or directly into the gearbox housing, most modern FWD cars use exposed drive shafts, as the motor/gearbox assembly is solidly mounted to the chassis, and can not "flex" with the travel required to take up suspension travel if you used a solid axle configuration . Vehicles like jeeps and other 4x4s use fixed solid axles linked to the gearbox via a transfer box and prop shafts ( prop shaft = propeller shaft, taken from the aviation industry) . these are the common names for the drive train components used here in the UK, and like many other thing within the automotive parts, the USA/Canada use completely different names for the same components including several body parts.
@@The_Scottish_titan On this Jeep they look like ordinary Hooke's Joints to me, fine off road in 4WD but on road they have the property of speeding up and slowing down every quarter turn, at any decent steering angle they'll have the wheel out of your hands. . . . . . . . . It's why CV joints as so called. . . . :-) The boots were not properly in their grooves on the tie rod ends, hopefully replaced properly out of shot as it's really doing my OCD in presently.
Nice Jeep, ❤ the X-files bits, but better with the black and white or ghosting. You have a great sense of humor. Fun watching you work. I’m am a big RIDGID and Milwaukee fan. I upgraded some tools based around. Watching you use them. Thanks for a great channel and the new space should make it more interesting. Oh and the wife unit thing is gold, as is the sound effects you make 😂😂❤
Good morning, always love your videos. The pliers you used to pull the cotter pins are not side cutter, that's a different tool. The one you were using is called end nippers. Have a great day.
I like how you put the X-Files theme on when your daughter is caught on camera. I grew up with my family owning a trucking company and my older brother and I played in the garage when our dad had us with him when he had to work on some of the trucks. I see nothing wrong with it since I grew up that way, although, I do see how some folks would RRRREEEEEEEE the heck out of it. Keep up the great vids and glad to see your family is happy and safe in your new adventure. Also on a side note, when you went live the other day and posted the link to the Wife Unit's channel, I hopped over and subscribed. Liking how her content is coming along. Much success to you both. Godspeed and much love from a fan.
You could have left the upper ball joint cotter pin out since it's likely that the alignment shop would have to loosen that joint to rotate the eccentric tapered collar as part of the alignment. When getting the Jeep back from alignment, you could look and see if the alignment shop had installed a new cotter pin. Did not see on-camera where you applied final torque to the hub's drive spline nut. Since that nut did not seem to have provision for a cotter pin nor staking, and it appeared to be made like a conventional nylock-style nut, it's likely the manufacturer recommends using a new nut each time it's removed.
Great job Ray Bottom ball joint nut should be tightened first and top last hence why tip one has that pinch insert Otherwise ball joints wear prematurely due incorrect assembly
Both upper & lower ball joint had castle nuts & split pins, you replaced the lower ball joint with a standard locking nut. just though i'd let you know. anyway great video as always. hello from Scotland.
i love all your videos! but as a family man...what always wins out to me is when you have started to do the x-files theme when your daughter appears! keep up the great work man!
Ray love how your ABS just popped out done one today with WD40 very gentle twists over 15min over in uk would not free up love your videos keep up the good work.
at the age of 4, in 1969, I also played garage hopscoth in MY dad's garage. Soon there after, I got a tad too curious about the pit in the garage bay....and that was the end of my trips to work with my dad......
306th! GOOD MORNING RAY! Jeeps are not my favorite vehicles. Four classmates were killed in a rollover accident in a 1960s Jeep, in 1974. Just my opinion. I know there are big Jeep fans everywhere. To each their own. Roger in Pierre South Dakota 😊
Ray do you always know ahead of time when a Kid Unit has been in the background or is it sometimes a surprise while editing? Also, will there be an alignment rack in the new space or not worth it?
A word to the wise, torque tie rods and ball joints with a torque wrench. My first job as a technician years ago was at a Pontiac and Buick dealer. I didn’t know at the time that they were involved with a massive lawsuit. They had rebuilt the front end on an Buick wagon, upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends. The tech didn’t torque the fasteners just like you have done numerous times. A few weeks after the work was done the vehicle owners went on a trip. While driving they hit a pot hole and one of the outer tie rods broke and they crossed into oncoming lane and was hit head on by a car. 4 of the family, wife and 3 kids were killed. During forensic investigations it was found that none of the fasteners were tortured to spec. The family of the car sued the dealer and the tech, the dealer lost and paid 7.3 million in damages, lost their GM association and had to close. The tech lost his case and was charged with 4 cases of involuntary manslaughter and sentenced to 5 years for each death. The dealership was sold and reopened with new ownership a couple weeks after the court decision as the old owner couldn’t afford liability insurance and all the GM backing. Also remember you have filmed your negligence and posted it for all to see. If you are a L.L.C. you do have a certain amount of personal protection by can still be liable for damages and ruin your life for many years. Just some words for thought. The extra 4 or 5 minutes it takes to torque fasteners can save you lots in the long run. When dealing with suspension parts it’s a no brainer to torque the fasteners.
Good advice. I can hear the attorney now... "Members of the jury, pay close attention to the hubris, sarcasm and utter disregard for safety in every "click" the defendant makes... though with his voice instead of a proper torque wrench."
Agreed. Ray des a lot of work and makes many customers happy. But the lack of a torque wrench on certain bolts seems pretty important (or it is to me). Wheel bearing bolts, wheel nut, some others as well. I can't make myself not use a torque wrench on these types of fasteners. And as you state, the liability risk is so high and the lack of a torque wrench is being filmed. Hearing the word click will always be amusing but there might be times hearing the actual click is a better idea.
Didn't know that if a part breaks as in the tie rod you would be liable instead of the maker of the part....... one in a million chance . I suspect there is more to this "story".
@@vilemerchant That's the problem here...there are different degrees of "broke". If the material of the parts failed, then that's a manufacturing defect. If the tie rod end dropped out of the spindle and the threads were intact then the jury could *reasonably* conclude that the fastener was incorrectly installed. If the tie rod end separated from the sleeve, and the sleeve is *reasonably* intact, the jury can infer that the fasteners that hold the assembly together were improperly assembled and/or torqued. In industrial settings, following the manufacturer's instructions and using *regularly calibrated* tools is an absolute necessity.
Gotta say, Ray, aside from the occasional country song, I really love your tunes. Sneak in a bit of metal every now and again and I'd just listen here instead of my stream at home.
I saw that too and said uh oh, those may not last very long ,especially off roading,oh well........BTW ,no set screws for stabilizer collar mount? I can see that sliding all over the rod. One last question I had was checking suspension travel on passenger side especially to make sure no binding or interference of new stabilizer location, just wanting to learn, no harm Ray.
I had to get a trailer for the key fob on my new Gladiator... Haven't lost it, yet anyway... LOL Been seeing that blue Jeep in the lot for a while. Nice to see it get done. Great job Ray...
Hey Ray did that stabilizer kit come with locking bolts that secured it from sliding on the bar? Looked like it had provisions for it on the video. Most company’s use lock bolts in the collar to keep it from sliding back and forth.
Great video Ray! I love cold steel work on the "nether-regions" and on a Jeep that is built with real metal parts and old school engineering is so rewarding to watch. Good call on the ungraded tie rod ! After the alignment, where do you get the new wheel and tire mounted and balanced? I know that's in your core DNA, are you going to buy a Hunter Road Force balancer so you can do your own wheel and tire work?
That Jeep is indeed a JL, not a JK. You can tell by the redesigned grill, the relocation of the windshield hinges, the relocation of the turn signals on the front fenders, and the vent on the sail panel. Not to mention the updated interior. It is an easy mistake to make though, as Jeep made both the JK and JL in 2018, the year they launched the JL. I was a car salesman in 2018 and a lifetime Jeep fanatic. It was part of my product training.
This looks familiar. Mid-summer 2022, while at a dead stop in front of my driveway, waiting for a car to pass before pulling in, a silly teen neighbor girl going too fast came into my lane and smashed the crap out of my F-150 with the outward-turned front driver's tire taking the brunt. It took over 9 hours, but we had to replace a broken knuckle, upper ball joint, tie-rod, and the lower control arm (bent) and complete a brake job (caliper, hose, rotors, pads) in 95+ degree temps in direct sunlight. Then we had to take the rim to a shop to be straightened, a repair shop for an alignment, and then submitted the mom with the bill for everything (excluding the front passenger brake job.)
You are suppsed to partially tighten the lower ball joint nut first (15lbft I think), then fully tighten the upper and then fully tighten the lower. This allows the alignment sleeve on the upper to move to the correct location before it's clamped in place. Tightening the top first and then the lower can put a lot of stress on the knuckle and ball joints.
Great job keeping the content coming while the shop in under construction. I was the insurance guy for a number of years. My backyard mechanic and early body shop experience was invaluable in helping to understand the customer's and shop's concerns. I was the guy at the desk with the checkbook, not the estimator who visited the shops. I was one of the few paper shufflers who actually elected to attend training with my field guys and gals, because, unlike many of my peers, I felt it necessary to put eyes and hands on actual damaged cars from time to time. I also held I-Car certifications. Repair shops always know more than those in Ivory Towers.
It's great to hear about someone who wants to do their job better than is expected.
As a consumer and a tradesman, I appreciate it.
My experiences with insurance companies left me wondering what the hell those adjuster people are required to know in order to do their job, tbh the last claim incident I had.. I knew how much it would cost to do the job, the persons who were asked to opine on the cost of the job just wrote it off as totaled instead of the truth. Which is about 3k of mostly cosmetic parts with a worst case of 5500 on a $17000+ vehicle. The adjuster and so called mechanic(s) who were asked to bid on it said 25,000 USD. The level of greed or incompetence on that was just mind blowing.
I had the whole thing pulled apart over the winter previously due to it being sold with undiagnosed problems, I learned the internals of it over a few months during the winter in my home shop.
So many Jeeps and PT Cruisers.... Good to see you providing service to the marginalized groups of society.
Hey Ray. As a wrench up here in Rust Country, USA (Syracuse, NY), I am totally jealous of the condition of the vehicles you get to work on! A 2018 Jeep up here would require half a can of PB Blaster, a torch, air tools and a ton of garage words just to get a hub assembly apart! As always, great to watch you work, my friend! I'm just jealous AF to see how easily many of your projects come apart!
I've moved allegiance to Gasoila Free All penetrating oil...spray it and watch the rust bubbles.
You should see the southwest cars, that brake rotor woulda flopped off as soon as he took off the brake components!
There are "Florida Book Hours" and "Rust Belt Book Hours" which are 2.5 times the Florida Book Hours.
Agreed. I'm a fellow Syracuse area sufferer. Just put new cable ends on my car 's battery cables. They were rotted between the wire and crimped on terminal. Replaced the failed starter too. Everything is now crimped, soldered and sealed with liquid electrical tape and heat shrink tubing. Also applied Barrier Bond rustproofing to the underside. Have already tried Fluid Film, Cosmoline, Crown, and Surface Shield. Fluid Film lasted 3 months. Cosmoline lasted through the winter, as did Crown. Just used Surface Shield on my daughter's car. It looks promising. Used the Barrier Bond on my car. Looks promising.
I am reminded of the service manual for an VW I had in the sixties, the ‘technicians’ wore white lab coats for the illustrations. As I was up to my elbows in dirt and grease.
I'm willing to bet that you left the cotter pins to the end because you knew there would be a bunch of us slowly freaking out because you didn't install them when expected. 😀
He only did the upper. He put the tire rod nut on the bottom ball joint. Got it wrong... Details.
yup
Yea. Did he forget the bottom one???
He didn't show it anyway not sure if he didn't put the bottom cotter pin in.
just like him doing an oil change. and right after emptying the oil, going to press the START button and fire up the engine. but not actually doing it! lol
Good morning, Ray. Can't wait for the first videos after Project Expansion is done.
Fantastic job I like how you explain everything as you go most shops wouldn't do that.
Even though I don't work om my car I have a much greater understanding of how different aspects of a vehicle work.Keep up the fantastic work.
I was freaking out about the red hanger thingy, thank you for fixing it, much appreciated. I am amazed at the plethora of tools you have, there is something for every need.
Ray has gone from the GM expert to the FCA expert! Love the new shop and content.
Fiat Peugeot.....Stalantis
A Stellantis "expert" exists in Bangladesh or Cambodia where those pieces of junk are created. Not Florida.
Those that can’t create can only distroy
@@cengeb True. Most of the cars he is working on are pre-Stelantis, which is the dumbest name for a company I have ever heard of.
@@bat__bat Not sure where all their cars are made. The vans are still made in Canada.
As a train fan, it is a nice subtle addition to your content to hear the horn in the background. Please keep that in the videos, and even capture a locomotive or 6 during your test drives. It would make good icing on the cake for a handful of us.
Hey Ray! Thanks for the upload... couple of things... "suggestions" as we all don't live in Arizona or Florida. Never pull the ABS sensor by the wire. Eric O was probably cringing! Also a little "spritz" of Fluid Film on that rotor hub to bearing face would prevent future "rust bonding" That new tie-rod link better have some mean teeth in it to keep that steering stabilizer in place. Not liking that design. Any slight loosing on that clamp bracket and that thing is going to be walking all over the place.
A lot of upgrades don't always seem like they are. The OEM engineers usually are pretty good with the stuff that stops and steers because they have the safety word to repel accountants.
straight forward repair, no suprises along the way, sounds like a good day in the office. great video as always
Really interesting and entertaining as always. Thanks, Ray. BTW, I loved the little X-files ‘daughter-unit’ cameo. She’s such a little sweetie! 🤭😄
So funny when she appears and that music plays.
The truth is out there
he missed some sound for his little boy at the beginning 🫣
i love it when this happens lmao
just love the music its always epic
Things are so much easier when you have a lift and the right set of quality tools. 2023 and we’re still using cotter pins, that were used on covered wagon wheels ;)
the rod ends when I was taught in the 80's was to count the turns when removing old parts put new rods at same amount of turns and wheel alignment will be real close. there is some variance between old and new different manufactures etc. but The wheel alignment guys always told me I basically did the wheel alignment for them in a lot the cases, so they got free money for a wheel alignment that basically was already done. Maybe a tweak here and there but it was always pretty close. I thought all mechanics did it that way.
other than that pretty good content. keep it up.
thank you Ray i am 71 and learn so much from your videos that I could a lot myself now keep them video coming dennis from Ontario Canada
That blue paint job is gorgeous
Needs to be finished
You read my noggin gorgeous deep blue
My first thought too!
As Ray would say, “It’s blue, so you know it’s good.” 😁❤️
Too bad it's a Jeep.
Hiya Ray, super cool video job good job as it helped me straighten my wonky steering on my mobility scooter as I suffer with multiple sclerosis & have done so for the past 25 years approximately 2 weeks ago I had a run in with a massive truck & I came off worse out of the 2 of us so once again excellent video so please keep them coming GL&HF coming from Dulwich London England(✌peace✌)
Not just entertainment, but educational. Excellent instructive techniques Ray.
Love the "XFiles" music when the little one appeared in the back ground! 😄 👍🏾💯 Thank you for another great video Ray n Fam! Keep pushin positive! 🎯
Loving the X Files when Child unit enter frame 😄
Any apprentice would be very lucky to be taught by you Ray.
I think you're equally as good as a videographer and editor as you are a mechanic. Your videos are as good or better than some channels that pay someone else to do that part of the production.
Love the daughter unit X-Files thing btw...
Another daughter unit sighting.
Lotta guys just cuss waaay too much like their real tuff when they get bound up and cry about their job while only foreseeing the money from the customers pockets.
X-files girl makes me laugh every time!
morning coffee with Ray, best way to start the day.
Morning Ray ..enjoying the videos with you and Wife Unit ..!! Lucky dude !
Victory guitar music was a nice touch at the end Ray.
First class kudo's to the auto body shop! (my family operated one from 1926-to-2006)
It’s great to see an auto body shop that knows what they’re doing. Of course, you can’t see the quality from a video that didn’t showcase (before and after and details) the repair, but it appears to have been very well done.
I worked at a dealer that had a terrific body shop. It was rare to even see a slight paint mismatch. My brother used a different shop on the other side of town when he was in a very minor accident and they did a terrible job. They only had to replace the front bumper, the grille and repaint just a tiny spot of paint under the headlight on his new, black F150. The alignment of the bumper was off and the black paint didn’t even match. He took it to our shop to have it fixed again and you couldn’t tell it had ever happened. I had $4k in damage to my Mazda fixed at our shop and to this day, almost 10 years and 250k miles later, you still can’t see where it was ever repaired. My car was also pretty badly damaged in a front end collision when it was on a test drive when it was new. I’ve been through that car I don’t know how many times and I still can’t tell what is original and what was repaired.
Collision repair is an art. Some are great and some are not so great.
Great job! I really enjoy the content you provide...FYI all former Dodge products are now - FIAT - fix it again tom or fix again on tues and thursday!!!
Hey Ray - you accidentally used the old nylock from the tie rod ball joint on the lower for the knuckle. So now there's no cotter pin in there. It will "probably" be fine, but it would be responsible to fix it.
Pro Tip: Never say, "this is going very very good" this tends to be what the pros call, foreshadowing.
Love the content, thanks for sharing Ray
In the ERs I used to cover, saying things like “it’s been a quiet night” would be good for a head slap. Usually disaster immediately followed.
Great Job Ray, You the man !! I love how you been adding new equipment to your shop. I really like how the "wife Unit works with you at the shop, she is a big plus to your new success. Very happy for you Ray and I continue to follow you. THUMBS UP !!
Ray, just letting you know, NEVER say that cotter pins aren't needed! Here is why I say that: I own a 1992 Ford Ranger. The suspension is a Twin I-Beam. If you know anything about how Ford used to do wheel bearings, they literally had the inner and outer races included in the front rotors.
Well, one time, I was in town, getting ready to get some errands done, and I hear my right front wheel howling like no tomorrow. Limp the truck home, guess what I found? The whole rotor assembly somehow came loose from the knuckle, and the bearings became unusable (they weren't destroyed, given how much grease I put in the assembly when I installed it). Literally, I pull the cotter pin, pull the little light aluminum axle nut cover, take off the axle nut, and the whole thing landed in my hands. That little cotter pin held everything together, until I got home. Had it not been there, I don't know what would have happened.
That's my little story for the day. Moral of that story: Never forget cotter pins! They may not just save your life, they may save your car or truck too!
It's a good rule of thumb that if there's a place for a Cotter pin then there needs to be a Cotter pin in that place when you do the job. Beats having to explain to the jury why you didn't put one in.
Glad to see Ray is uploading at the same normal time again, 6 a.m. E.S.T without the UA-cam Glitch.
Did I notice a really big crack in the windshield?? I wonder why it wasn't replaced when the rest of the body work was done? Repair nicely done!!
Fun Tip. If you buy locking lug nuts they usually have an order form to order new keys, so always order extra keys when you buy them. You can also order locking lug nuts with a specific key. At one time all 3 of my cars used the same locking lug nut key.
Ray, my son bought me some pass through sockets for Christmas years ago. I don't really use them alot, but, when I need them, they're extremely handy. Thanks for another Jeep video. Later
Mate I love your videos, I learn so much.
I wish I could work on cars but I have pretty chronic arthritis (since my late teens) and I always drop bolts etc. I work on push bikes and I’m constantly dropping ship. The difference is I can sit whilst working on bikes.
Keep up the good work brother
Since late teens, man that sucks. Have you looked into St John Wort? If it isn't known to you, it can relieve arthritis pain however it may not be compatible with you and you really need to get advice from a medical professional before taking. If it works for you then it will be a life changer and I really hope for your quality of life improvement that it does. I genuinely wish you well Alexander. 👍
St John’s Wort did nothing for my knees, but it worked wonders for my mom’s hands. Unfortunately, Vicodin is the only thing that helped my knees. And, unfortunately, that stuff is pretty much off limits to anyone in this country unless you have a bone sticking out of your leg.
Pain killing meds will block the pain, but do not stop the activity that causes pain. Medicate heavily and whack your hand with a hammer. You won't feel the pain, but your hand is still broken.
I live in the Deep South, so no cannabis for quite some time. I also have to be able to pass a company drug screen since I occasionally drive a commercial vehicle. I can get away with it with a prescription of opiates, but cannabis is also a no go for company policy.
Unfortunately, and according to about 4 orthopedists, the pain will never be completely alleviated without a surgery that may compromise my knee completely and may necessitate a replacement. Since I’m only 40, I’m not looking for a completely useless knee or a fake one. Both of my parents had replacements and you’re not the same. I still stoop, squat, kneel, twist and bend , just with pain. I’m not interested in losing that ability yet. Right now, I’m maintaining with an unhealthy diet of ibuprofen since the opiates are impossible to get. They don’t help much, but they do a little.
Anyone who has worked on Jeeps/Chrysler products knows this is NOT as easy as Ray makes it! Why Ray is pretty awesome at this!
Thank you for another great video
2018+ is the JL, you can easily tell an JK from a JL because of the turn signals and sidemarkers being on the fender flares. 4-door makes it a JL Unlimited (JLU) Don't worry, I got them mixed up for a while too (and still do with YJ and TJ). Nice to see you working on so many Jeeps. if FCA keeps being $@#&s about their warranty on my new 2023, maybe you'll see me drive over there to see you instead someday.
Ray, Hello from Sunny Western Australia. Been watching your video's for a while now, its a pleasure just watching a mechanic who takes pride in his work and is more concerned about the client perception than the normal retail "roll in, roll out, charge 'em lots" mentality as you have mentioned in the past.
My local speed-shop mechanic is the same, (I have a modified GC8 Subaru Impreza WRX) its not the time, its not the money, its the fact
that when I roll my car into his shop and tell what I think I want fixed (which may be wrong, I'm a computer nerd!), and Tim and his team then
does whatever needs to be done to make it right without ripping me off!
Good job on going out on your own, if you do the client side right, you will never have a shortage of work!
X Files theme is absolutely perfect. It's a strange sight to see a little one so close to where mechanical work is being done. I know she's being watched, so no criticism, just appreciation of the in joke.
It is therapeutic to see someone working on cars instead of refusing to look at the car and diagnosing based on 2-year-old notes in a computer. If only all mechanics were this competent and honest.
Enjoyed this Jeep! It's real purdy.
And enjoyed the new parts going on including the explanations of the master mechanic.
That is a Fiat pretending to be a Jeep. My '06 with the 4.0L in-line 6 is a Jeep.
Good Repair and upgrades to this jeep @Rainman Ray's Repairs
good day to you Ray another outstanding video ive got to say your the best at what you do but the most important thing is to have yourself a great day Ray
Ray, where’s the angry pliers? I miss them. Lol. I love the music when your little one walks in. Again, you rock!
Hey Ray! Howdy! Outsider looking in point of view, you have a real knack for upgrades. That was brilliant to look at that as an option AND save money too! That's what I try to explain to people. A mechanic can have experience but couple that with MECHANICAL APTITUDE and COMMON SENSE like you do and it's a win-win for all. I just love the way you do everything. I was playing with the layout of your shop in my head and I was wondering if you had the room for an alignment rack and a COATS machine for tires...(wish there was room for one more lift and a flat stall too but only so much room for now. I LOVE doing industrial planning for work spaces. I actually did consulting for Condo building Maintenance shops layout and equipping. It's a blast! You have to be having fun laying out YOUR OWN shop. No one can envision it like you can. No one else knows how you work. I can't wait to see what comes next. All the best, If I win the lottery, we are sitting down and building you from scratch the end all be all of service facilities. Nothing but the best of everything. Bless you and your family, the X files theme when they show up is always a high point! So cute! Be safe brother and may this year be the best of our lives so far!
Nice…I think this was the first repair I watched that didn’t involve brake kleen at some point!!
From what I can see you did a near perfect job rebuilding that wall, though I question why the wasted effort of tearing it down and then rebuilding it. :P
The done to code team turned up and said nuh nuh nuh, this will not do, and said Another!! Which kickstarted the reverse In structure time meld matrix
Even matched the paint perfectly. Ray is multi-talented
he didnt rebuild it.
@@stevie4146 Your humor meter seems to have shit the bed
@@stevie4146Look at the video, he clearly rebuilt it.
Gorgeous JLU Ray. Love that color. Thank you.
I am one of those old school guys. Have you ever used a fork to remove the ball joints? I was going to say Cotter pin (key) but you got it at the end. I did notice that the tie rod end boot (Right side) needed to be adjusted. It was not in the grove all the way on the bottom. Another great video.
It's a Joy watching you Work with Family around, your daughter looks like she is having Fun in Shop...
I love how you filmed this prior to wall being down. Great job as always Ray🇺🇸👍🏼✌️
Yeah it was a real flashback :)
and the crrazy stuff with the alignment that followed that this Ray does not know is coming his way.
Wall? What wall, I don't see no wall 🤪
The Berlin Wall? Dang
If I'm not mistaken the dampener shop should be half throw out to accommodate for left and right turn great job as always
Seems like your business has really taken off. So glad to see your move has paid off
Welcome back Kotter - Pins. Like the custom music added to the end Ray. You have a wonderful day
Great job Ray.
Very informative video on how to upgrade/replace work on a vehicle model, l probably won't ever do any practical mechanical work on.
Thanks.
Love the music at the end there noticed it right away, the fix was nice then again your fixes with all the explanations are always nice!!! Keep up the great work you do!!! 👍
great work as always, i correct ur pronunciation of some of the parts as we know them different here in scotland lol, u say "cotter pin" i say "split pin", u say "axle" i say "drive shaft", theres alot more but i still love the energy and the fact u like to make sure we can see what ur doing all the time, keep up the greatness
cotter pin - split pin : ok i can deal with that
axle - drive shaft : no just no
axel - the part of the drive-train that connects one wheel hub assembly to the corresponding one on the other side of a vehicle and transfers power from the drive shaft to the wheel hub assembly
drive shaft - the shaft that transfers power from the gearbox to the axel
@@111smd thats a cv joint on the end of the drive shafts lol, an axle is the full assembly that the diff and half shafts are connected too lmao, thats what we know them as here, im also a fully qualified mechanic myself so its interesting to see how others do jobs and name parts
A half shaft is essentially a drive axle that spans roughly half the car, from the wheel to the transaxle or differential. These are equipped with Constant Velocity, or CV, joints.
@@111smd in most cases an axle is a solid assembly containing the drive components for the delivery of power to the wheels, Axles on the whole are mounted across the frame ( chassis), Drive shafts on the other hand are part of an independent suspension system that allows each wheel on each corner of the vehicle to move independently from it's partner wheel on the same axis, the drive to the wheel from the drive shaft is achieved by CV joints so as to allow the wheel to move in either and up and down plane or rotate to the left or right for steerage, So in an Axle the drive shaft/differential are housed internally, but on some models where exposed drive shafts are used they either mount into a transfer case or directly into the gearbox housing, most modern FWD cars use exposed drive shafts, as the motor/gearbox assembly is solidly mounted to the chassis, and can not "flex" with the travel required to take up suspension travel if you used a solid axle configuration . Vehicles like jeeps and other 4x4s use fixed solid axles linked to the gearbox via a transfer box and prop shafts ( prop shaft = propeller shaft, taken from the aviation industry) . these are the common names for the drive train components used here in the UK, and like many other thing within the automotive parts, the USA/Canada use completely different names for the same components including several body parts.
@@The_Scottish_titan On this Jeep they look like ordinary Hooke's Joints to me, fine off road in 4WD but on road they have the property of speeding up and slowing down every quarter turn, at any decent steering angle they'll have the wheel out of your hands. . . . . . . . . It's why CV joints as so called. . . . :-)
The boots were not properly in their grooves on the tie rod ends, hopefully replaced properly out of shot as it's really doing my OCD in presently.
Daughter sound effects. Awesome. Puts a smile on everyone's faces 👍🏻
Nice Jeep, ❤ the X-files bits, but better with the black and white or ghosting. You have a great sense of humor. Fun watching you work. I’m am a big RIDGID and Milwaukee fan. I upgraded some tools based around. Watching you use them. Thanks for a great channel and the new space should make it more interesting. Oh and the wife unit thing is gold, as is the sound effects you make 😂😂❤
Small child alert makes me laugh every time !
Good job backing up videos for the down time so we have something to watch. Thanks Ray.
Good morning, always love your videos. The pliers you used to pull the cotter pins are not side cutter, that's a different tool. The one you were using is called end nippers. Have a great day.
Hello fellow Fulton. Scenery Hill, PA here.
Looked more like bull noses to me ( or at least that's what we call them in the UK), more of a joinery/ carpentry tool used for pulling out nails
I was going to call you out on the cotter pin 😂 excellent job Ray 👍🏻
I like how you put the X-Files theme on when your daughter is caught on camera. I grew up with my family owning a trucking company and my older brother and I played in the garage when our dad had us with him when he had to work on some of the trucks. I see nothing wrong with it since I grew up that way, although, I do see how some folks would RRRREEEEEEEE the heck out of it. Keep up the great vids and glad to see your family is happy and safe in your new adventure. Also on a side note, when you went live the other day and posted the link to the Wife Unit's channel, I hopped over and subscribed. Liking how her content is coming along. Much success to you both. Godspeed and much love from a fan.
The truth is out there!
@@imheck The cute it out there.
Absolutely fantastic ray hope the new shop brings dividends spot on mate love to c you wife a little girl at the shop 😘
You could have left the upper ball joint cotter pin out since it's likely that the alignment shop would have to loosen that joint to rotate the eccentric tapered collar as part of the alignment. When getting the Jeep back from alignment, you could look and see if the alignment shop had installed a new cotter pin.
Did not see on-camera where you applied final torque to the hub's drive spline nut. Since that nut did not seem to have provision for a cotter pin nor staking, and it appeared to be made like a conventional nylock-style nut, it's likely the manufacturer recommends using a new nut each time it's removed.
One doesn't leave out cotter pins...serious liability insurance issue.
You dont rotate the upper ball joint holder. You replace it with the proper offset size. Thats why it has a flat side to keep it from rotateing
Great job Ray
Bottom ball joint nut should be tightened first and top last hence why tip one has that pinch insert
Otherwise ball joints wear prematurely due incorrect assembly
Both upper & lower ball joint had castle nuts & split pins, you replaced the lower ball joint with a standard locking nut. just though i'd let you know. anyway great video as always. hello from Scotland.
and the steering angle limiter bolt was not reeeee installed
Great - the train whistle is the new "shop phone ring" noise to be imitated! 😄
Great video just a little weird to watch this one right after I watch the 1 where you tore the wall down
i love all your videos! but as a family man...what always wins out to me is when you have started to do the x-files theme when your daughter appears! keep up the great work man!
Idk what compelled you to drop in the X-Files bits... but I friggin love it 😆
Did i miss something Ray, or did you forget the lower cotter pin ? Great and informative video as usual.
@@chuckd5819 He did not show swapping the lock stop from the old upright to the new one either. But doesn't mean he did not
Looks like he used the nut for the tie rod end ( which did not have a castle nut ) on the lower ball joint instead.
As far as I could see the lower ball joint nuts were of the "nyloc" type.
@@SE-tt2sl @11:11, that is a castle nut.
@@REDBIRD-95 Sorry my bad, I should paid closer attention, although it is quite common to see nyloc nuts on ball joints now days.
Ray love how your ABS just popped out done one today with WD40 very gentle twists over 15min over in
uk would not free up love your videos keep up the good work.
6:30 that still looks like way too much pressure on the brake hose. 😆
He did it on purpose 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Way to go with the backburner content whilst the great wall destruction is starring at your soul! 😁
Hi Ray. I saw you remove two cotter pins, but only replace the lower one. Did you do the upper one while we weren't looking?
at the age of 4, in 1969, I also played garage hopscoth in MY dad's garage. Soon there after, I got a tad too curious about the pit in the garage bay....and that was the end of my trips to work with my dad......
Was the steering hard stop screw swapped over to the new knuckle?
306th! GOOD MORNING RAY! Jeeps are not my favorite vehicles. Four classmates were killed in a rollover accident in a 1960s Jeep, in 1974. Just my opinion. I know there are big Jeep fans everywhere. To each their own. Roger in Pierre South Dakota 😊
Ray do you always know ahead of time when a Kid Unit has been in the background or is it sometimes a surprise while editing? Also, will there be an alignment rack in the new space or not worth it?
Great job, attention to detail is spot on, I’m always learning, keep up the great work!
A word to the wise, torque tie rods and ball joints with a torque wrench. My first job as a technician years ago was at a Pontiac and Buick dealer. I didn’t know at the time that they were involved with a massive lawsuit. They had rebuilt the front end on an Buick wagon, upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends. The tech didn’t torque the fasteners just like you have done numerous times. A few weeks after the work was done the vehicle owners went on a trip. While driving they hit a pot hole and one of the outer tie rods broke and they crossed into oncoming lane and was hit head on by a car. 4 of the family, wife and 3 kids were killed. During forensic investigations it was found that none of the fasteners were tortured to spec. The family of the car sued the dealer and the tech, the dealer lost and paid 7.3 million in damages, lost their GM association and had to close. The tech lost his case and was charged with 4 cases of involuntary manslaughter and sentenced to 5 years for each death. The dealership was sold and reopened with new ownership a couple weeks after the court decision as the old owner couldn’t afford liability insurance and all the GM backing. Also remember you have filmed your negligence and posted it for all to see. If you are a L.L.C. you do have a certain amount of personal protection by can still be liable for damages and ruin your life for many years. Just some words for thought. The extra 4 or 5 minutes it takes to torque fasteners can save you lots in the long run. When dealing with suspension parts it’s a no brainer to torque the fasteners.
Good advice. I can hear the attorney now... "Members of the jury, pay close attention to the hubris, sarcasm and utter disregard for safety in every "click" the defendant makes... though with his voice instead of a proper torque wrench."
Agreed. Ray des a lot of work and makes many customers happy. But the lack of a torque wrench on certain bolts seems pretty important (or it is to me). Wheel bearing bolts, wheel nut, some others as well. I can't make myself not use a torque wrench on these types of fasteners. And as you state, the liability risk is so high and the lack of a torque wrench is being filmed.
Hearing the word click will always be amusing but there might be times hearing the actual click is a better idea.
Didn't know that if a part breaks as in the tie rod you would be liable instead of the maker of the part....... one in a million chance . I suspect there is more to this "story".
So the bolts didn't come undone, the tie rod just broke on its own and for that the tech got 20 years jail? Sounds intriguing.
@@vilemerchant That's the problem here...there are different degrees of "broke".
If the material of the parts failed, then that's a manufacturing defect. If the tie rod end dropped out of the spindle and the threads were intact then the jury could *reasonably* conclude that the fastener was incorrectly installed.
If the tie rod end separated from the sleeve, and the sleeve is *reasonably* intact, the jury can infer that the fasteners that hold the assembly together were improperly assembled and/or torqued.
In industrial settings, following the manufacturer's instructions and using *regularly calibrated* tools is an absolute necessity.
Gotta say, Ray, aside from the occasional country song, I really love your tunes. Sneak in a bit of metal every now and again and I'd just listen here instead of my stream at home.
Tire rod dust covers slipped off when you were tightening them
I saw that too and said uh oh, those may not last very long ,especially off roading,oh well........BTW ,no set screws for stabilizer collar mount? I can see that sliding all over the rod. One last question I had was checking suspension travel on passenger side especially to make sure no binding or interference of new stabilizer location, just wanting to learn, no harm Ray.
Ree... The door... Oh, oh you closed it, great job Rayman!
nice fast work! btw, not sure if you repositioned the front right tie rod rubber boot, as it came slightly off during electric wrenching?
At 28:56, yeah
I had to get a trailer for the key fob on my new Gladiator...
Haven't lost it, yet anyway... LOL
Been seeing that blue Jeep in the lot for a while. Nice to see it get done. Great job Ray...
Hey Ray did that stabilizer kit come with locking bolts that secured it from sliding on the bar? Looked like it had provisions for it on the video. Most company’s use lock bolts in the collar to keep it from sliding back and forth.
Correct
Yes, 2 threaded holes for a set screw.
Im not a Jeep kinda guy but that Blue is Poppin & the wheels go good with that Color & now we all know how to replace a Steering Knuckle Thanks Ray 👍😁
Did you remember the axle nut clicks?
I crackup every time you play the “Twilight Zone” music when your little sweet pea walks through the shop. Funny stuff!
Great video Ray! I love cold steel work on the "nether-regions" and on a Jeep that is built with real metal parts and old school engineering is so rewarding to watch. Good call on the ungraded tie rod ! After the alignment, where do you get the new wheel and tire mounted and balanced? I know that's in your core DNA, are you going to buy a Hunter Road Force balancer so you can do your own wheel and tire work?
Your definition of "Jeep" must be very loose. My '06 with the last year of the 4.0L in-line 6 is a Jeep, this is a Fiat pretending to be a Jeep.
@@mattbrown5511 The jl and jk's can be very capable vehicles, but I'm with you and the 4.0
@@mattbrown5511 True, but compared to say looking under a Ford Maverick...YIKES!
Love watching you work on Jeeps.
you forgot the anti rotation set screws on the stabiliser shock
Or didn't show it. Lot of stuff not shown on Ray's edited videos.
Very interesting Raymond,😉 good job🏆 BROTHER!👍👋🏻
( enjoy the way you explain everything so simple yet so complete)
That Jeep is indeed a JL, not a JK. You can tell by the redesigned grill, the relocation of the windshield hinges, the relocation of the turn signals on the front fenders, and the vent on the sail panel. Not to mention the updated interior. It is an easy mistake to make though, as Jeep made both the JK and JL in 2018, the year they launched the JL. I was a car salesman in 2018 and a lifetime Jeep fanatic. It was part of my product training.
The door handles don't have that rounded part either
That is a Fiat, not a Jeep. My '06 is a Jeep. Just look under the hood at the 4.0L in-line 6.
@@mattbrown5511 *rolls eyes*
Ok little Jimmy Hall, tell how I am wrong. Does it have a Chyrsler 4.0L in-line 6 or a Fiat engine? Is it owned by Fiat or not? (Rolls eyes).
This looks familiar. Mid-summer 2022, while at a dead stop in front of my driveway, waiting for a car to pass before pulling in, a silly teen neighbor girl going too fast came into my lane and smashed the crap out of my F-150 with the outward-turned front driver's tire taking the brunt. It took over 9 hours, but we had to replace a broken knuckle, upper ball joint, tie-rod, and the lower control arm (bent) and complete a brake job (caliper, hose, rotors, pads) in 95+ degree temps in direct sunlight. Then we had to take the rim to a shop to be straightened, a repair shop for an alignment, and then submitted the mom with the bill for everything (excluding the front passenger brake job.)
You are suppsed to partially tighten the lower ball joint nut first (15lbft I think), then fully tighten the upper and then fully tighten the lower. This allows the alignment sleeve on the upper to move to the correct location before it's clamped in place. Tightening the top first and then the lower can put a lot of stress on the knuckle and ball joints.
Correct