I bought a 6 year old old Mercedes and owned it for 4 months. It spent more time in the shop than on the road. Plus, my old GMC/ Ford tools didn’t work and I wasn’t prepared to buy specialty tools for it. Happy day when it went away. Happy New Years to all. Sunshine Coast,BC 🇨🇦
One thing I learned owning a Mercedes and being a DIY mechanic, you're typically going to have to disassemble the trunk just to change a front marker light.
No truer words could be said. There were so many electrical components in my C230 trunk that controlled the rest of the car, i.e. the battery, fuel relay, ambiguous relays that would fail, vacuum locking, system, some kind of communication network, and lot of other items for the audio system. It's a bitch when the trunk develops a leak.
be thankful that it is not a super car some of those you need to disassemble the entire car just to add gas - sarcasm for effect, but sometimes you need to disassemble the car for something like a light bulb
Lol...that's precision German design an engineering for you. Sometimes l wonder whether or not they over design some vehicles just to piss DIY ers off 😅
Ray, I believe you should recalibrate the suspension when you replace the air struts, Some vehicles let you do it by raising & lowering the vehicle from the vehicle suspension adjusting selector switch/lever, others require this to be done via the OBD tool. I would look into that first before recommending the right air strut be replaced.
@@Maroco918 A lot of Mercedes will need code clear and a bidirectional scanner to fill the airbags back up. VWs/Audis/Porsches don't care, they will lift themselves off the bump stops. Some Mercedes will try to air up when driving a few meters.
I have a 2008 version of that car and had the same strut blow out (all the way). The Arnott remanufactured strut was the way to go. Half the price and built better than original. That’s why the core charge was so high. After putting it in the car stayed all the way up. Everyone told me the pump release valve was shot, but after research I found the control wire was prone to fraying and, yup, the wire was broken. Spliced it and it’s been fine for 4 years.
If you have a scan tool with Mercedes bi directional control, the level can be calibrated on there. The other bag should not be replaced unless it is leaking.
Yes, but no :D It's generally recommended to change suspension components in pairs. The passenger side "bag" is also a strut that's worn way more than the left one. You'll probably feel that on a performance oriented car, you as a mechanic. The customer will only notice it drives a little weird :D Let's rephrase: If the car wasn't roached I'd try changing them in pairs if not cost prohibitive :)
@@tschuuuls486 I agree that struts should be re-paced in pairs. Even if one is good. Airbag part of it or not. The airbag is mostly controlling height. The strut part of it controlling bounce and road ride can be worn out even though the airbag is still working. So just going over a bump, you can have in bounce uneven. It may not handle right. Feel a little funny in handling even if the car is level. I also think people are being a little picky on the work. So long as the key is off, there shouldn’t be voltage at the plugs he messed with. No not really worth disconnecting the battery. I think we have a new BMW and Mercedes snobs around here. Back in Germany, these things are used as Taxi’s. It’s basically a ford here. Having worked on a ton of these things over the years. Never had any issues, other then Iike a few other cars out there, sometimes you have to remove other things to get to what you want to work on. I know some of these airbag cars have a switch to turn the system off so when you lift up on a rack or you tow, you don’t drain all the air out of the system.
@@jbdragon3295 that's because Ray made the rookie mistake of leaving the key in the vehicle. When doors are closed, key away from vehicle, the car will not self level. Because the key was left in the ignition,the car attempted to self level by releasing air.
Ray. I think the Mercs have to have their ride height recalibrated once you change a strut. Go into your diagnostics equipment, go to Special Functions and recalibrate Ride Height. Thanks for your great vids as always.
Instead of a pry bar and risk damage to the air bag you can put a ratchet strap round the bottom control arm and pull it down with your foot leaving both hands to locate the strut
Ray, that ferrule on the airline looks like it's broken. I have never seen one split like that. I would replace it. Also, compression fittings are NOT allowed to be used on brake lines UNLESS they are DOT certified. We use them all the time on air brakes, but you have to check the fittings to make sure they are DOT certified. Hydraulic brakes however, operate at a higher pressure. So you don't want to use them on hydraulic brakes.
Mercedes hood struts (if factory) have a red button on the inside of the driver's side strut. When the hoods up, push the button, wiggle a little to release, and the hood goes past the up mark and straight up and out of the way to service the engine bay. Reverse procedure to reset red button to lower hole so hood closes. And it locks it in the up position regardless of strut strength.
When you lift car and hear air , bag is bad. Replace and your good to go. Tip: next time upper control arm ball joint, separate and youll have clearance needed to remove shock. Saves time. Mercedes tech. How to...Great vid
Just finished the air shock vid.....I don't agree it needs another air shock on the passenger side. The reason why the car isn't level could be two reasons...1) the ride height sensors on the front suspension (there are two, one for each wheel) tell the air solenoid block just how much air to put in the shock to get the car level, one of these sensors might be bad....or 2) the suspension needs to be calibrated so the car is riding "level". Either of these can be diagnosed/validated and fixed thru a good diagnostic tool with enough fidelity to isolate the individual sensors and then the tool should be able to tell you if they are working properly. If this is the case, then the calibration should be just a few finger pushes away on the touch screen of your diagnostic tool. How do I know this......I own the 2011 version of this car and do as much maintenance that I care to. FYSA.
@@user-kw6fl4km2hThat means you don’t do much because a lot of engine repairs require you to drop the sub frame and remove the engine. I know a Mercedes dealer tech.
Back in the day Lincoln had air ride when you raised the car on the lift and you headr a boom like the first vid you exploded the air shock the air ride was trying to level the car
@@gregdiamond6023 Well......I've done the following to my cars and have never had to "drop the subframe and remove the engine" out of any of my MB cars;.... but alternators, thermostats, a waterpump or two, brakes, rotors, calipers, air struts, flex disks, filters and fluids, ...I guess this isn't much for some.
Holly crap! When I pull my fender liner out the only thing I see is the wiring for my fog lights. Look at all the stuff in there! So glad I own a Toyota!
Most "high end auto" owners are either too busy, or just "in over their heads"with the surprizing large repair bills they will be looking into, and just don't bother, till the wheels start to fall off
That's untrue, there are far more Toyotas, Volkswagens, and Chevrolets driving around in a dangerous state if for no other reason than more Toyotas are built than Rolls Royces and can be had cheaply by yobbos.
@@mumulester - as a proportion of vehicles, though, I see more poorly maintained higher end vehicles, especially when compared to the cost of repairs vs level of income.
It's usually good practice to replace shocks and struts in pairs, but as expensive as those are I can see why they would only want to change one out. My 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII had air ride but I converted it over to non air ride front and back and what an improvement over that junk air ride system it came factory with.
Rheeeeee! You're supposed to torque the rubber bushing nuts down with the car at "normal" ride height, or you'll shorten the life of the bushing as it will be twisted instead of unstressed at normal height.
Hi Ray, those suspension nuts for the tie rod, and lower strut to control arm are self locking and only 1 time use. They must be replaced, or the customer will start to notice knocking sounds. The lower strut to lower control arm joint must be torqued when the suspension is at the riding height. If not done, the rubber bushing will wear out prematurely. I have videos on my channel going through this procedure, although on a 4matic (AWD). I can also provide you any Mercedes procedures. Feel free to ask me if you plan on doing any other Mercedes repairs.
My assessment is, is that it's some type of internet radio ( Spotify or something). And this is one of rays playlists. I think it's funny that it's in so many videos. Regardless of anyone's opinion of the song I think it's funny. And maybe ray likes the song, who are we to judge another man's taste in music 😀 Have a fun day everyone.
Simple 15 minute job if done correctly, Disconnecting the upper ball joint saves you all that prying on shit. Step 1) Remove airline, electrical plug, and nuts. Step 2) raise car. Step 3) remove lower strut bolt. Step 4) use a damn wrench to loosen the sway bar link. Step 5) remove lower bolt on wheel well cover, reach behind it and pull the electrical pulg connector down where you can unplug it. Step 6 remove upper ball joint nut allowing the lower suspension to drop. Step 7 remove strut. Reinstall in reverse order. 1) Install strut in upper mount with lower end stradling lower suspension arm. (Do Not install lower bolt) 2) Reconnect upper ball joint then connect sway bar link (Leaving out lower strut bolt out allows enough movement to easily do this) A replacement Arnott strut is between $350 and $400 retail.
Most likely the height sensors need to be recalibrated, or the sensors may be damaged from raising the vehicle on a lift without first selecting 'service/lift mode'. The switch in the car Ray said was possibly an extra ride height switch is most likely the 'service/lift mode' switch🤣 Also, the reason the suspension vented each time Ray lifted the vehicle was because the system detected an unexpected increase in suspension height, so it tried to lower it back down to the set height by venting the air. This can be avoided by selecting 'service/lift mode' prior to raising the vehicle👍
It's usually good practice to change items in pairs. We all know that if we don't, the side not replaced usually breaks as it's weaker. This depends on the customer though. However Ray, I'm sure you'll advise accordingly 😉
it drives me crazy when people replace one headlight and not the other. ocd maybe but damn... you know they are the exact same part that has had the exact same use. the other side woll generally go bad in a matter of weeks..
@@ohioplayer-bl9em - Look at another way, if your light bulbs are swapped out out of sync and not in pairs then there is even less likely that bulbs will fail at the same time.
genrally you would replace both front struts but i suspect the merc air back struts are very expensive ,so i get its only one . i think you need to calibrate the new one via your scan tool . Oh and by the way the bonnet (hood) has 2 positions ,std (as you had it ) and service position (further back ) via the little tab on the side of the hinge
The rear air springs are around $800 for the pair. The front struts are over $1,000 each. Also the rear shocks are $500+ each. The rear air springs aren't that bad of a job if you get Arnott brand, but if you replace with OEM Bilstien B4 units you have to drop the sub-frame to replace them. These cars aren't that bad to work on, and aren't much more expensive than similar luxury vehicles of same year. The front struts for an 07 Yukon I had were $1500 and the rear s were around the same price.
For some MB models, there are aftermarket kits available to convert the air suspension from air to coil overs. I installed one once, it was a very straightforward job and the kit even included a box to disable the low air warning on the dash. Now, I am not a MB guy, and there is probably plenty of hate from the purists out there, but the owner of the car was happy to be done with strut failures and ruined tires from the body bottoming out and rubbing through on them.
On my Bentley, I have a "Jack Mode" function that must be used before placing the car on a lift. I think that bottom/left switch is the same on the Benz.
i thought that. suporting all the weight , then raising it, i thought might blow some seals inside. but then, merc,bm,porch ect owners, never raise the bonnett/hood..eh..i have an x5, do my own work..
Cheap fix is Jack vehicle up take air line off and hook a 15 psi air line fitting to the shock finger tight and spray in spray foam 1/4 can then put back on air line and wait for it to dry inside of the shock It usually holds for a year or 15k miles
I will never have to work on a Mercedes-Benz. But Ray, you make it interesting and enjoyable to watch. Please keep doing what you're doing, the entertainment is more than worth the cost of admission. As always thank you.
I've been watching your videos for a while, but now my 6 year old son loves to watch them with me. Very good and informative videos that can also be watched by kids
Ray, you ever think about becoming a teacher at a vocational school? We need great teachers so we can have great mechanics in the future. I believe you'd be a natural and a darn good instructor. Thanks for the info you share.
Ray, your patience amazes me,as a non-patient type person some of these repairs you do would have me slinging tools and or obscenities. Great job,and video.
Yes! I'd be hopeless as a car mechanic. Half if the jobs would be returned to the customer, with my excuse being 'you need an expert Mercedes-Benz mechanic on this, Sir'. Delete makers name to suit......
Ray. Hang on to that fitting if unused, you know that's the kind of crap that when dropped or placed carefully in a heavily protected 'secret spot' on the workbench, is never seen again.😁🎄👍🇺🇸😎
Most owners only want to replace the leaking part on these. These are anywhere from $1200-$1800 per strut. You can buy conversion kits to switch these over to a conventional suspension too. These are about $1200 per kit and a lot more work.
Since they are so expensive, wouldn't you want to verify a leak? I never saw this in the video. In other words, can you relearn a Mercedes airbag that simply LOOKS low? (Maybe it was learned in a weird way.) There is probably some way to pressure test these for leaks.
I'm declaring the song "What's Up" by Four Non Blondes the official Rainman Ray song because it always seems to be playing in the background every third or fourth video.
hey ray, you can adjust ride height with your bidirectional scan tool, or xentry. your supposed to calibrate the rest heights after air strut replacement. your snapon scanner should be able to do it.
My fist car was a 1973 330E Mercedes sedan. Dad said i could have it if I got it running in the late 90s. Was a clogged fuel line. Started right up. That sheep skin interior was so lux.
@robbobsjobs8456 That model was back when MB made solid, spartan, dead reliable cars that had vault like build quality, and were worth buying. Any Benz made after the late 1990s was junk.
@@watershed44 My 2002 C-Class that i drifted into a stone with dead on took it like a fucking champ, No broken headlights, or any stuff like that. One 36 dollar junkyard radiotor later and its back on the road looking and driving like it never was wrecked. So i dont agree with you at all that "Any Benz made after the late 1990s was junk" I think youre full of shit.
@@motokid1492 The W202 was mostly shit...build quality was way down from the W201 (aka 190 series) which was spartan, but a solidly built model . How do I know this? I worked at a large Mercedes store, and drove these models just about every day. You were fortunate if you had a good experience with your C class W202. Many owners did not.
There's a calibration procedure on the suspension with Mercedes. I don't know the procedure myself but I'm pretty sure that will have to be performed. Oh and RRREEEEEEEEE in advance. I'm confident you know what you're doing and I'm just firing keys hahaha! Love the channel, ray, and won't hesitate to help you what little (if any) I can. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time.
This guys an epic legend ! Proper organised …looking forward to watching this video now 🙏🏻 If I’m not mistaken it’s 6 am in Florida … 11am here in the uk Thanks for the video ray 👌🏻 hope you had a good Xmas 🎄
Not having worked on one of these cars, I am unable to offer advice as many commenters are doing. However one recurring advice was to use lift mode to clear your lift, which is ignoring the fact that the lift mode would not work with a leaking, non-functioning air strut. The car was unable to maintain any lift at all and would be in danger of over-working the air pump.
I'd suggest you chop off the last 6 to 8 feet of your busted retractable tape you threw out and keep that chunk around hanging somewhere just to use in place of, or as an easy to find measure for exactly things like that ride height. It may be stuffed as a retractable tape measure but a length short enough to support itself can still be very handy so before you chuck the rubbish away forever, salvage a usable chunk off it.
@@MazichMusic It doesn't matter whether junk or not. A short section is still handy to keep around for measurements up to whatever length you cut off. Your comment and that possible fact don't change that.
Tapes have that loose metal tab that gives an accurate inside or outside measurement. Great Idea to keep a flexible 2-yard stick or whatever length you need most often.
@@zenpistoler0 Exactly, thanks to that tab having that movement allowing for it's own thickness it can be more useful than that stick ruler he had. It can be hooked onto things to free up 1 hand and also even for short measures in confined spaces the rest can be simply folded out of the way. I kept one and was surprised just how often I found myself using it preference for anything else within it's length.
The passenger front struts on these cars are a known issue, usually going first. I would suggest replacing that strut too. Each strut has a sensor (you saw and mentioned) that keeps both sides at the same height (these rarely have issues) If you end up needing to do work on the rear air springs, if they are being replaced by Arnott you must replace both sides, as the arnott bags have a built in reservoir that will throw codes and have mismatch heights if not replaced ion a pair. The buttons on the console are the suspension settings. Far left raises the car, middle or right (depending on the market it was made for) is the sport adjustments. push it once, its sport mode 1 lowering and stiffening the car. push it twice sport mode 2, which enables active suspension lowering the car further as you pass 80mph,stiffens more and will raise and lower according to speed and cornering third time puts it back to normal ride height i.e. comfort mode. The nut coming loose on the wiper is also common. It was designed to do so. To change the wiper blades you pop the hood, raise it to normal height then on the hinge there is a push lever to allow you to raise it straight up into "service position" this allows the arms to move freely to change blades w/o damaging the motor or transmission of the wipers. Found this out the hard way trying to change out my blades in the rain with a howling , now ex, in the car complaining. Didnt raise the hood gave it a jerk and $300 and and hour of work later i had wipers again. Mercs get a bad rep for working on and i dont know why. Think of working on a 60's American car and everything is right where it should be.
mr husband unit, please consider removing metal (gold) rings when working on electrical components as unexpected shorts occur near exposed electrical wires. don't ask how i know, ok i'll tell you, a friend got his wedding ring stuck between the starter solenoid and battery cable terminals and fried his finger before he could get it under water to cool it down.
I think he continues to wear the ring just to piss off all the people who have pointed out the stupidity of wearing ANY jewelry while working on anything. He knows... and it's his finger to lose. Gonna hurt like a bitch too. Or so my Uncle says who pretty much lost his at work. They fired him for it as a bonus as a work rule violation.
The early (2001) S class mercs had a problem where the air connection for the front struts was sealed with epoxy, they would crack and leak, I ended up replacing both my fronts because of that. It does give a good ride thought. Would definitely recommend replacing the other one too.
I am surprised he did not replace them in pairs like you would for any other car. Yes i know they are expensive but as the owner that is the way i would have gone.
I never had a problem with the second strut going bad when just replacing one. It takes a while for it to settle “down” after you lift it. It will eventually settle to an even height on both sides
Having noted the driver side hood strut should have a red button to raise the hood higher into "maintenance position" (will keep saying it until Ray figures it out), when starting most MBs, you don't have to hold the key until it starts- turn the key to start and let go, it'll spin until it starts (or fails? mine's never failed but I've only had it a short time).
I got to replace the air struts on my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee this summer. This video gives me hope that I am gonna be able to do it. You make this look so easy to do. Love the video keep them coming
Its because he has a lift and the proper tools. Thats over half the battle. I have always dreamed of a lift amd the older I get the more I actually need one. Its harder and harder to lay on that hard garage floor. 45 isnt old but its definitely much different than 25... much different.
@@ohioplayer-bl9em I agree 100% I was a mechanic about 20 years ago. I still have 90% of my tools but a lift would make it a lot easier. The nice thing is my youngest son likes to work on vehicles also so he is gonna help me with the project
something W220 owners most likely have experienced. i have a 2003 S500 (ABC hydraulic suspension) , i have found that using an impact to remove the lug bolts will damage and crack them I had replaced 3 sets. they will crack and you won't know until they snap or the wheel falls off, that happened too. discount tire just broke 2 again impacting them off 3 days ago, not even on install, but on removal... I found Best practice is to loosen with breaker bar, remove with a ratchet, not an impact.
Don't you love the over engineering of Mercedes lol, I have to take off my intake and ECM in order to change my Coils and plugs lol. I despise the weird zip ties they use, they are the zip ties with a push pin attached, there is no saving those. I just bought a whole kit of them lol. Great Work Ray! P.S. The wipers are auto rain sensing wipers, sometimes the rain sensor thinks dust is rain and will turn them on for a few cycles. I also think that you should replace the other strut, its best to replace those in pairs. Hey Ray, If you go topside on that new strut, and disconnect the connector, and take 2 jumpers, 1 from the most bottom pin, and another from the middle pin, and connect to a 9 volt battery, you can release some of the air to try to manually level it. ( just an idea if your looking for any) I had to do this on my Daughters Airmatic a few years ago.
It's like if you have a bad brake caliber..you have new on one side and old on the other sooner or later the old will die..so my rule is do both no second trips..it works for me...everyone have a good day..
Ahh, general suspension work. German vehicles are quite interesting. We always made gravy when a BMW or Mercedes came in. The work was easy. The alignment was always the beast. You need to put weight bags in weird places and special tools to move caster and camber. Toe is always the same as an aftermarket shop. These vehicles are meant for high speed on the Autoban, therfore all the extra components.
Hello Ray. I’m glad your new Business appears to be doing well. Congrats on your new adventure in life. Nice to see your shop is growing and I hope it will continue growing. I guess you have to spend money to make the money. Congrats. Keep up the good work your videos are very educational and I’m learning lots from watching them.
Kind words man, one of the things I love about Ray's community is that all of us viewers love and support Ray's content and admire his ethics and personality. He is truly an awesome man, husband and mechanic.
Hi Ray, typically you need to recalibrate the ride height sensor when you make major suspension changes. That’s my experience as a Land Rover tech anyway. Also, if the car has more than 100k mi they should replace both sides.
On my Land Rover Discovery TD5 it's essential to disconnect the battery before unplugging the RHS or they loose calibration and need re setting. Not sure about Mercs though. Keep up the good work
Ray, that wire on the shock portion isn't a ride height sensor, rather it is the controller for the adjustable shock damping... you will notice near the raise lower button there is a suspension settings button with 2 leds just behind the shifter.
Now, if he did we would not see Ray work his process. Ray would miss out on a learning opportunity. Also, Ray would miss out on some $$. The owner most likely paid less for this repair had s/he taken it to the dealer.
@@rajbeekie7124 I.. TOTALLY agree 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm just not THAT brave 🤣. The lesson reinforced for me from this video is: the simpler the better 🤣.... Like the Jeep 👍. I'm old, I worked on Army vehicles in the 90's when you opened the hood.... And there was just an engine 🤣🤣🤣.
I'm not sure many people would take a 17 year old Mercedes to a dealer for a repair. A lot of old Mercedes, that now cost three or four grand, started life as 50 to 100 grand luxury cars. The price of genuine spares for luxury cars, not just Mercedes, only reflects the car's value for about two years.
The ring is called a "Ferrule" and usually come in brass or nylon, and deform to, as you said, provide both a washer/seal for the plastic line to the machined fitting inlet. I was surprised to see the cut in it, usually they are an entire ring solid... possible source of air leak?
@Ray for the strut ride height you may need to hook up your scan tool and see if there is an option to do a reset on it to allow it to auto level it self out.....
I appreciate even more than usual these ones when it's something that I have not ever done before myself. It's not just enjoyable, I actually get to learn stuff...
Ray, IIRC, there are certain models of Mercedes-Benz that you will DESTROY the air shocks if you raise it on the lift before pulling the fuse for the compressor. I was chewing the fat with the manager of a tire shop who told me one of his mechanics destroyed the air shocks when he forgot to pull the fuse. I'm uncertain as to which models this is applicable.
Holy crap they actually authorised this repair? Judging by the condition of the rest of the vehicle I was expecting them to continue the neglect and just refuse all repairs
Reading between the lines and paying attention to the visual cues I think that one of Rays customers in the same facility buys and stores wholesale cars with the object being to pass inspection for resale not to make the cars perfect, good to have a customer like this for steady work and why Ray is hinting at expansion so soon.
@@petermallow I suspect that is what the set up is there, Hack out the door auction junk re sale. I worked at such a place, then became a hauler of such garbage.
Went camping in the Everglades a few years back. The mosquitoes were BRUTAL!!!! I sprayed on so much OFF (R) that it was runny, and the lil vampires were still going for it!
In Northern Canada there are stories about mosquitoes carrying off small rodents. Oh and up there they view anybody using OFF as adding sauce to their meal.
I am very surprised that you took that car out, with the tyres in the condition they are in. The rear right looks ready to go any second (Judging from the first video).
I believe those are run flats, my BMW had them and aside from the fact that the wear was a lot like they were made from cheddar cheese and they cost $2,000 about every 14,000 miles to replace they did not run very well when flat. Max speed was about 35 (MPH) if you wanted to maintain any control. The wear pattern looks a lot like the car has a sport suspension as well, on my BMW the outside of the tires looked fine when you were standing next to the car but the inside edges were down to the steel and that was really only obvious when you laid on the ground or put it on the rack. But, I am sure Ray would not take the car out on the road with tires that bad if they were not run flat.
@@markwalker3499 my MB 4 matic came with Continental tires,at yearly inspection they said it needed new tires after 19,000 miles! What ? These tires only last 19k,they were like yes thats it! The car now has 73k and is on its 3rd set! Also it seems that brakes and tores go hand in hand on these cars! And no its not due to using cheap parts,the power stops have actually lasted longer than the originals!
😂😂 I agree with Reaper and Scotty. Enjoy it for 10 years and get rid off it. Owning a pit like that from 10 years Old to Twenty surely will empty all your savings!
@@kimwinthernielsen9434 My C-Class that ive had for a while now isnt that expensive. Scotty dosent like any fucking car. That man should start his own damn car company if he has so mutch to point out on every damn car he touches
Just wanted to let you know my wife loves the"wife unit" tee i gave her. Wore it all day on Christmas. When she read the shirt she said "damn straight"
the car can be low for a variety of reasons but you will need to set the ride height using a autel or similar tool. once you manually set it if it leaks down or is off then you have other problems. its not always the air strut either, it can be a distribution block leak, sensor malfunction or a leak in the line.
With new strut a suspension calibration is required on the Airmatic or any air suspension vehicle. Measuring takes place at center of the wheel/rim to top of the wheel arch/fender, and needs to be input into the vehicle via DAS or good bidirectional OBD II, vehicle will level itself after measurement has been put in.
when you were putting that connector together i was shouting at the screen as i have two vito van that i have worked on and some of the things on mercs are a pain in the a*se to work on with out taking one side of it apart .you learnt some thing new today .
All you had to do was disconnect the upper ball joint, drops really low. Calibrate the system and good to go. And Arnott struts are the go to for any european car.
Hi Ray, I am a long time fan, however have got a couple of suggestions on this video. First I’m not sure that the levelling issue on the front end means that you need to replace the other strut. Certainly on my ML Mercedes the ride height sensor is seperate to the AIRMATIC strut itself and thus what I below you have is a suspension calibration issue. What I have found is that simply raising and lowering the vehicle several times addresses any calibration issues else you need a scan tool capable of doing a Mercedes suspension calibration. My other suggestion is that I didn’t see you pull the AIRMATIC fuse whilst work on the Air Suspension components and finally! Cheers Drew
HEY, RAY: just take it over to Mercedes-Benz of Sarasota on Clark Road, and have one of their mechanics calibrate the air ride system. Only takes a few minutes, should be their smallest unit of labor (hopefully, 15 minutes). They'll connect an ATS gauge to it, to check the pressures, and test the system for leaks with CO2. They'll use an Autologic tablet (somewhat like the one you bought from SnapOn) to perform an automatic ride height calibration. Assuming your own tablet cannot perform the calibration (which is somewhat unlikely, but not impossible). Mention that you'd prefer to have things like this done by them instead of spending the money for the specialized equipment that you'd only have a use for very rarely or having it done by an independent "foreign car mechanic" that you cannot be responsible for... maybe they'll jump you right in ahead of other jobs, since it's like a quick in & out, and possibly - *possibly* , because it's an MB dealership, lol - give you a break on the bill.
I believe the button with the up arrow is used when lifting the vehicle . It locks the air suspension. At least that how it was on on vehicles I have had (German) that also had an air suspension .
So, the drivers side sensor was most likely knocked out of whack for the ride height to be that much off. Also NEVER enter calibration mode as these other comments are saying. If you dont understand what needs to happen in calibration mode DO NOT ENTER into that mode. 😅
Hei Ray The lump at lower part of strut is component that adjusts flow in strut. So it effects on how hard or soft the ride is. For Audi u can buy only bags but in MB airmatic u need to swap whole package.
That Benz looks brand new. If they detail it and clean up the plastic on the headlights, it'd look showroom new. I love this design, but won't own another Benz. Too expensive to maintain, but they are awesome cars. Look at Ray pumpin out the content every single day. Gott alove the HUSTLE, Mr. Ray. Hope you and the fam had a wonderful and blessed Christmas buddy. Same to all the FanRays here. HNY all
you could have put the hood into the maintenance position, which is in the straight up position. It is done with the locks at the hood hinge left and right side. no hood prop needed.
I bought a 6 year old old Mercedes and owned it for 4 months. It spent more time in the shop than on the road. Plus, my old GMC/ Ford tools didn’t work and I wasn’t prepared to buy specialty tools for it. Happy day when it went away. Happy New Years to all. Sunshine Coast,BC 🇨🇦
One thing I learned owning a Mercedes and being a DIY mechanic, you're typically going to have to disassemble the trunk just to change a front marker light.
No truer words could be said. There were so many electrical components in my C230 trunk that controlled the rest of the car, i.e. the battery, fuel relay, ambiguous relays that would fail, vacuum locking, system, some kind of communication network, and lot of other items for the audio system. It's a bitch when the trunk develops a leak.
Sometimes the trunk as well. lol
be thankful that it is not a super car some of those you need to disassemble the entire car just to add gas - sarcasm for effect, but sometimes you need to disassemble the car for something like a light bulb
Lol...that's precision German design an engineering for you.
Sometimes l wonder whether or not they over design some vehicles just to piss DIY ers off 😅
@@111smd 😅
Ray, I believe you should recalibrate the suspension when you replace the air struts, Some vehicles let you do it by raising & lowering the vehicle from the vehicle suspension adjusting selector switch/lever, others require this to be done via the OBD tool. I would look into that first before recommending the right air strut be replaced.
That year will auto calibrate in the first 15 yards of driving
I also did wonder about that as well as if it would auto calibrate and level out during the drive.
@@Maroco918 A lot of Mercedes will need code clear and a bidirectional scanner to fill the airbags back up. VWs/Audis/Porsches don't care, they will lift themselves off the bump stops. Some Mercedes will try to air up when driving a few meters.
@@Maroco918 in the star diagnosis program, there is an airmatic calibration procedure
It is part of procedure that you must recalibrate ride height so that the car knows how much it needs to raise and lower to ride properly
I have a 2008 version of that car and had the same strut blow out (all the way). The Arnott remanufactured strut was the way to go. Half the price and built better than original. That’s why the core charge was so high. After putting it in the car stayed all the way up. Everyone told me the pump release valve was shot, but after research I found the control wire was prone to fraying and, yup, the wire was broken. Spliced it and it’s been fine for 4 years.
Agree...I put Arnott on my 2011....~ 1/3 the price that MB wanted and they have a lifetime warranty.....Can't beat that with a stick !!
If you have a scan tool with Mercedes bi directional control, the level can be calibrated on there. The other bag should not be replaced unless it is leaking.
Yes, but no :D It's generally recommended to change suspension components in pairs. The passenger side "bag" is also a strut that's worn way more than the left one. You'll probably feel that on a performance oriented car, you as a mechanic. The customer will only notice it drives a little weird :D
Let's rephrase: If the car wasn't roached I'd try changing them in pairs if not cost prohibitive :)
@@tschuuuls486
I agree that struts should be re-paced in pairs. Even if one is good. Airbag part of it or not. The airbag is mostly controlling height. The strut part of it controlling bounce and road ride can be worn out even though the airbag is still working. So just going over a bump, you can have in bounce uneven. It may not handle right. Feel a little funny in handling even if the car is level.
I also think people are being a little picky on the work. So long as the key is off, there shouldn’t be voltage at the plugs he messed with. No not really worth disconnecting the battery. I think we have a new BMW and Mercedes snobs around here. Back in Germany, these things are used as Taxi’s. It’s basically a ford here. Having worked on a ton of these things over the years. Never had any issues, other then Iike a few other cars out there, sometimes you have to remove other things to get to what you want to work on.
I know some of these airbag cars have a switch to turn the system off so when you lift up on a rack or you tow, you don’t drain all the air out of the system.
@@jbdragon3295 mercs don't need a switch, they disable the airmatic when the key is off and the car is locked. VW Group cars have a jack mode.
@@tschuuuls486
Yet all the airbags in this case drained out when lifted.
@@jbdragon3295 that's because Ray made the rookie mistake of leaving the key in the vehicle. When doors are closed, key away from vehicle, the car will not self level.
Because the key was left in the ignition,the car attempted to self level by releasing air.
Loving the new nickname for the turn into lift bay 2. "The Corner of Death"
Ray. I think the Mercs have to have their ride height recalibrated once you change a strut. Go into your diagnostics equipment, go to Special Functions and recalibrate Ride Height. Thanks for your great vids as always.
Instead of a pry bar and risk damage to the air bag you can put a ratchet strap round the bottom control arm and pull it down with your foot leaving both hands to locate the strut
Ray, that ferrule on the airline looks like it's broken. I have never seen one split like that. I would replace it.
Also, compression fittings are NOT allowed to be used on brake lines UNLESS they are DOT certified. We use them all the time on air brakes, but you have to check the fittings to make sure they are DOT certified. Hydraulic brakes however, operate at a higher pressure. So you don't want to use them on hydraulic brakes.
Pretty sure it was discarded - the new strut came with a new compression fitting pre-installed
Mercedes hood struts (if factory) have a red button on the inside of the driver's side strut. When the hoods up, push the button, wiggle a little to release, and the hood goes past the up mark and straight up and out of the way to service the engine bay. Reverse procedure to reset red button to lower hole so hood closes. And it locks it in the up position regardless of strut strength.
Is this feature on the early 2000's C-Classes to ?
@@motokid1492 it was in my 95 c280. I'd say yes
The air line "collar" is called a "ferrule"
"Whats going on" HAS TO BE one of the most recurring songs on this channel
I know I comment on it quiet a bit...
When you lift car and hear air , bag is bad. Replace and your good to go. Tip: next time upper control arm ball joint, separate and youll have clearance needed to remove shock. Saves time. Mercedes tech. How to...Great vid
Just finished the air shock vid.....I don't agree it needs another air shock on the passenger side. The reason why the car isn't level could be two reasons...1) the ride height sensors on the front suspension (there are two, one for each wheel) tell the air solenoid block just how much air to put in the shock to get the car level, one of these sensors might be bad....or 2) the suspension needs to be calibrated so the car is riding "level". Either of these can be diagnosed/validated and fixed thru a good diagnostic tool with enough fidelity to isolate the individual sensors and then the tool should be able to tell you if they are working properly. If this is the case, then the calibration should be just a few finger pushes away on the touch screen of your diagnostic tool. How do I know this......I own the 2011 version of this car and do as much maintenance that I care to. FYSA.
@@user-kw6fl4km2hThat means you don’t do much because a lot of engine repairs require you to drop the sub frame and remove the engine. I know a Mercedes dealer tech.
For some reason this reminded me of the “drive by argument” from family guy… “oooh rainman….I disagree!”
Back in the day Lincoln had air ride when you raised the car on the lift and you headr a boom like the first vid you exploded the air shock the air ride was trying to level the car
I would bet there is a relife valve that didn't reset
@@gregdiamond6023 Well......I've done the following to my cars and have never had to "drop the subframe and remove the engine" out of any of my MB cars;.... but alternators, thermostats, a waterpump or two, brakes, rotors, calipers, air struts, flex disks, filters and fluids, ...I guess this isn't much for some.
Holly crap! When I pull my fender liner out the only thing I see is the wiring for my fog lights. Look at all the stuff in there! So glad I own a Toyota!
It never ceases to amaze me - the more expensive the vehicle, the less it's maintained.
eh, suspension isnt really a maintenance item. maybe bad driving habits or bad roads but thia is a mercedes, they fall apart on their own just fine
Most "high end auto" owners are either too busy, or just "in over their heads"with the surprizing large repair bills they will be looking into, and just don't bother, till the wheels start to fall off
@@nainnub1 No silly, they don't keep the car long enough for it to break, third owner at least.
That's untrue, there are far more Toyotas, Volkswagens, and Chevrolets driving around in a dangerous state if for no other reason than more Toyotas are built than Rolls Royces and can be had cheaply by yobbos.
@@mumulester - as a proportion of vehicles, though, I see more poorly maintained higher end vehicles, especially when compared to the cost of repairs vs level of income.
Must be satisfying to get customers that want to make thier cars good mechanically. No more "customer declined repairs"
It's usually good practice to replace shocks and struts in pairs, but as expensive as those are I can see why they would only want to change one out. My 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII had air ride but I converted it over to non air ride front and back and what an improvement over that junk air ride system it came factory with.
Rheeeeee! You're supposed to torque the rubber bushing nuts down with the car at "normal" ride height, or you'll shorten the life of the bushing as it will be twisted instead of unstressed at normal height.
Hi Ray, those suspension nuts for the tie rod, and lower strut to control arm are self locking and only 1 time use. They must be replaced, or the customer will start to notice knocking sounds.
The lower strut to lower control arm joint must be torqued when the suspension is at the riding height. If not done, the rubber bushing will wear out prematurely.
I have videos on my channel going through this procedure, although on a 4matic (AWD).
I can also provide you any Mercedes procedures. Feel free to ask me if you plan on doing any other Mercedes repairs.
all true. Additionally, you need to go into the computer to reset and learn the new reference heights
I never torqued up the arms when at the ride height as all parts have a warranty and eventually they will wear out anyway
@@bmwman1981 hopefully you don't work as a mechanic professionally and are running other people's cars.
@@bigqwertycat I have had no issues with bushes wearing out prematurely from tightening up in the rises position
A little loctite will work!
The knowledge of this community is impressive.
Everyone on a sofa is an expert
@@gordonm2821 I'm retired and no longer work in the industry. But when I was, I was an ASE certified Master Tech. What about you.
"I said hey, what's going on?"
He does it on purpose to get comments. I’ve caught on to Ray Rays little trick
It’s either every two episodes and it’s blaring in the background. That radio station is utterly burning that song into a institution 😅
Dreadfully overplayed song. Cannot stand it.
@@fredk.2001 agreed
My assessment is, is that it's some type of internet radio ( Spotify or something). And this is one of rays playlists. I think it's funny that it's in so many videos. Regardless of anyone's opinion of the song I think it's funny. And maybe ray likes the song, who are we to judge another man's taste in music 😀 Have a fun day everyone.
Simple 15 minute job if done correctly, Disconnecting the upper ball joint saves you all that prying on shit.
Step 1) Remove airline, electrical plug, and nuts.
Step 2) raise car.
Step 3) remove lower strut bolt.
Step 4) use a damn wrench to loosen the sway bar link.
Step 5) remove lower bolt on wheel well cover, reach behind it and pull the electrical pulg
connector down where you can unplug it.
Step 6 remove upper ball joint nut allowing the lower suspension to drop.
Step 7 remove strut.
Reinstall in reverse order.
1) Install strut in upper mount with lower end stradling lower suspension arm.
(Do Not install lower bolt)
2) Reconnect upper ball joint then connect sway bar link
(Leaving out lower strut bolt out allows enough movement to easily do this)
A replacement Arnott strut is between $350 and $400 retail.
Most likely the height sensors need to be recalibrated, or the sensors may be damaged from raising the vehicle on a lift without first selecting 'service/lift mode'.
The switch in the car Ray said was possibly an extra ride height switch is most likely the 'service/lift mode' switch🤣
Also, the reason the suspension vented each time Ray lifted the vehicle was because the system detected an unexpected increase in suspension height, so it tried to lower it back down to the set height by venting the air.
This can be avoided by selecting 'service/lift mode' prior to raising the vehicle👍
Details details
Excellent information 👍🏻
It's usually good practice to change items in pairs. We all know that if we don't, the side not replaced usually breaks as it's weaker. This depends on the customer though.
However Ray, I'm sure you'll advise accordingly 😉
it drives me crazy when people replace one headlight and not the other. ocd maybe but damn... you know they are the exact same part that has had the exact same use. the other side woll generally go bad in a matter of weeks..
that was probably a cost thing. I can imagine these things are crazy expensive
😊😊😊
@@ohioplayer-bl9em - Look at another way, if your light bulbs are swapped out out of sync and not in pairs then there is even less likely that bulbs will fail at the same time.
@@lg3988 I looked them up. $655 for the Continentals plus the $300 core. Yes,you get the core back but ,it's still $1000 plus labor
genrally you would replace both front struts but i suspect the merc air back struts are very expensive ,so i get its only one . i think you need to calibrate the new one via your scan tool . Oh and by the way the bonnet (hood) has 2 positions ,std (as you had it ) and service position (further back ) via the little tab on the side of the hinge
The rear air springs are around $800 for the pair. The front struts are over $1,000 each. Also the rear shocks are $500+ each. The rear air springs aren't that bad of a job if you get Arnott brand, but if you replace with OEM Bilstien B4 units you have to drop the sub-frame to replace them.
These cars aren't that bad to work on, and aren't much more expensive than similar luxury vehicles of same year. The front struts for an 07 Yukon I had were $1500 and the rear s were around the same price.
The lower shock absorber mount must be tightened with a loaded suspension. This is important for air suspension.
For some MB models, there are aftermarket kits available to convert the air suspension from air to coil overs. I installed one once, it was a very straightforward job and the kit even included a box to disable the low air warning on the dash. Now, I am not a MB guy, and there is probably plenty of hate from the purists out there, but the owner of the car was happy to be done with strut failures and ruined tires from the body bottoming out and rubbing through on them.
On my Bentley, I have a "Jack Mode" function that must be used before placing the car on a lift. I think that bottom/left switch is the same on the Benz.
i thought that. suporting all the weight , then raising it, i thought might blow some seals inside. but then, merc,bm,porch ect owners, never raise the bonnett/hood..eh..i have an x5, do my own work..
Cheap fix is Jack vehicle up take air line off and hook a 15 psi air line fitting to the shock finger tight and spray in spray foam 1/4 can then put back on air line and wait for it to dry inside of the shock
It usually holds for a year or 15k miles
I will never have to work on a Mercedes-Benz. But Ray, you make it interesting and enjoyable to watch. Please keep doing what you're doing, the entertainment is more than worth the cost of admission.
As always thank you.
Now more and interesting to watch, 20 years old Maserati next.
I've been watching your videos for a while, but now my 6 year old son loves to watch them with me.
Very good and informative videos that can also be watched by kids
First drive needs to be to a tire store!
Ray, you ever think about becoming a teacher at a vocational school? We need great teachers so we can have great mechanics in the future. I believe you'd be a natural and a darn good instructor. Thanks for the info you share.
needs ride height calibration. that will sort out unevenness
When replacing air struts/ bags, pull a vacuum on the air bladder. Compresses the strut and makes life easier.
Ray, your patience amazes me,as a non-patient type person some of these repairs you do would have me slinging tools and or obscenities. Great job,and video.
Yes! I'd be hopeless as a car mechanic. Half if the jobs would be returned to the customer, with my excuse being 'you need an expert Mercedes-Benz mechanic on this, Sir'. Delete makers name to suit......
Absolutely! I like to work on cars, but patience has ridded itself from me, lol.
I try not to get to that point if I do walk away from the job and recalibrate my mindset have a good day
Ray. Hang on to that fitting if unused, you know that's the kind of crap that when dropped or placed carefully in a heavily protected 'secret spot' on the workbench, is never seen again.😁🎄👍🇺🇸😎
Most owners only want to replace the leaking part on these. These are anywhere from $1200-$1800 per strut. You can buy conversion kits to switch these over to a conventional suspension too. These are about $1200 per kit and a lot more work.
Since they are so expensive, wouldn't you want to verify a leak? I never saw this in the video. In other words, can you relearn a Mercedes airbag that simply LOOKS low? (Maybe it was learned in a weird way.) There is probably some way to pressure test these for leaks.
@@fitybux4664 indeed
I'm declaring the song "What's Up" by Four Non Blondes the official Rainman Ray song because it always seems to be playing in the background every third or fourth video.
hey ray, you can adjust ride height with your bidirectional scan tool, or xentry. your supposed to calibrate the rest heights after air strut replacement. your snapon scanner should be able to do it.
Does he have a snapon scanner? Or did that belong to the last shop he worked at?
My fist car was a 1973 330E Mercedes sedan. Dad said i could have it if I got it running in the late 90s. Was a clogged fuel line. Started right up. That sheep skin interior was so lux.
@robbobsjobs8456
That model was back when MB made solid, spartan, dead reliable cars that had vault like build quality, and were worth buying. Any Benz made after the late 1990s was junk.
@@watershed44 My 2002 C-Class that i drifted into a stone with dead on took it like a fucking champ, No broken headlights, or any stuff like that. One 36 dollar junkyard radiotor later and its back on the road looking and driving like it never was wrecked. So i dont agree with you at all that "Any Benz made after the late 1990s was junk" I think youre full of shit.
@@motokid1492 The W202 was mostly shit...build quality was way down from the W201 (aka 190 series) which was spartan, but a solidly built model . How do I know this? I worked at a large Mercedes store, and drove these models just about every day. You were fortunate if you had a good experience with your C class W202. Many owners did not.
There's a calibration procedure on the suspension with Mercedes. I don't know the procedure myself but I'm pretty sure that will have to be performed. Oh and RRREEEEEEEEE in advance. I'm confident you know what you're doing and I'm just firing keys hahaha! Love the channel, ray, and won't hesitate to help you what little (if any) I can. If I'm wrong, it won't be the first time.
I've replaced one of these before, it was just over $1k for a Bilstein one. I can understand only doing one side on such an old car.
This guys an epic legend ! Proper organised …looking forward to watching this video now 🙏🏻
If I’m not mistaken it’s 6 am in Florida … 11am here in the uk Thanks for the video ray 👌🏻 hope you had a good Xmas 🎄
Did you get toys for Christmas? have a good day
Not having worked on one of these cars, I am unable to offer advice as many commenters are doing. However one recurring advice was to use lift mode to clear your lift, which is ignoring the fact that the lift mode would not work with a leaking, non-functioning air strut. The car was unable to maintain any lift at all and would be in danger of over-working the air pump.
I'd suggest you chop off the last 6 to 8 feet of your busted retractable tape you threw out and keep that chunk around hanging somewhere just to use in place of, or as an easy to find measure for exactly things like that ride height. It may be stuffed as a retractable tape measure but a length short enough to support itself can still be very handy so before you chuck the rubbish away forever, salvage a usable chunk off it.
Probably oneof the HF take measures that they used to give away free. Every one I every procured met the same end. Junk.
@@MazichMusic It doesn't matter whether junk or not. A short section is still handy to keep around for measurements up to whatever length you cut off. Your comment and that possible fact don't change that.
Tapes have that loose metal tab that gives an accurate inside or outside measurement. Great Idea to keep a flexible 2-yard stick or whatever length you need most often.
@@zenpistoler0 Exactly, thanks to that tab having that movement allowing for it's own thickness it can be more useful than that stick ruler he had. It can be hooked onto things to free up 1 hand and also even for short measures in confined spaces the rest can be simply folded out of the way. I kept one and was surprised just how often I found myself using it preference for anything else within it's length.
The passenger front struts on these cars are a known issue, usually going first. I would suggest replacing that strut too. Each strut has a sensor (you saw and mentioned) that keeps both sides at the same height (these rarely have issues) If you end up needing to do work on the rear air springs, if they are being replaced by Arnott you must replace both sides, as the arnott bags have a built in reservoir that will throw codes and have mismatch heights if not replaced ion a pair. The buttons on the console are the suspension settings. Far left raises the car, middle or right (depending on the market it was made for) is the sport adjustments. push it once, its sport mode 1 lowering and stiffening the car. push it twice sport mode 2, which enables active suspension lowering the car further as you pass 80mph,stiffens more and will raise and lower according to speed and cornering third time puts it back to normal ride height i.e. comfort mode.
The nut coming loose on the wiper is also common. It was designed to do so. To change the wiper blades you pop the hood, raise it to normal height then on the hinge there is a push lever to allow you to raise it straight up into "service position" this allows the arms to move freely to change blades w/o damaging the motor or transmission of the wipers. Found this out the hard way trying to change out my blades in the rain with a howling , now ex, in the car complaining. Didnt raise the hood gave it a jerk and $300 and and hour of work later i had wipers again. Mercs get a bad rep for working on and i dont know why. Think of working on a 60's American car and everything is right where it should be.
I believe that there is an air balancing that may be needed to get all the struts have that same amount of air. It can be done with some scan tools.
29:08 Going for a test drive on those nice bald tires. 😆 Good luck! Yikes...
mr husband unit, please consider removing metal (gold) rings when working on electrical components as unexpected shorts occur near exposed electrical wires. don't ask how i know, ok i'll tell you, a friend got his wedding ring stuck between the starter solenoid and battery cable terminals and fried his finger before he could get it under water to cool it down.
I think he continues to wear the ring just to piss off all the people who have pointed out the stupidity of wearing ANY jewelry while working on anything. He knows... and it's his finger to lose. Gonna hurt like a bitch too. Or so my Uncle says who pretty much lost his at work. They fired him for it as a bonus as a work rule violation.
I hope you got it torqued to the right specs for a German car, Good -n-Tight!
Classic
Gut und fest is german but not as funny, I still laugh at the one german word my daughter learned as a messy eating kid, waschlappen.
gas suspension,,interesting,,mmmm....
Every time I hear a lift I think of the old purse 3D commercials. "It's going up!"🤣🤣
Hey Ray Merry Christmas ⛄🎄 to you, the wife unit and the kid units ! And a Happy upcomingzee New Year !
From a Cobalt to a CLS, I like it. Keeps things spicy.
The early (2001) S class mercs had a problem where the air connection for the front struts was sealed with epoxy, they would crack and leak, I ended up replacing both my fronts because of that. It does give a good ride thought.
Would definitely recommend replacing the other one too.
I am surprised he did not replace them in pairs like you would for any other car. Yes i know they are expensive but as the owner that is the way i would have gone.
@@walterwhite2270 Lol, but.your not the owner, just a armchair critic. Send the money lol.
Cut the last yard or two off the dead tape measure.
Handy flexible measurer, or glue it to the bench for a handy measuring spot.
Yeah, and let's polish the headlights.
Ray great job. The Mercs air suspension has a setting to turn off the suspension when raising the car. That’s why the air dump.
I never had a problem with the second strut going bad when just replacing one. It takes a while for it to settle “down” after you lift it. It will eventually settle to an even height on both sides
Having noted the driver side hood strut should have a red button to raise the hood higher into "maintenance position" (will keep saying it until Ray figures it out), when starting most MBs, you don't have to hold the key until it starts- turn the key to start and let go, it'll spin until it starts (or fails? mine's never failed but I've only had it a short time).
I got to replace the air struts on my 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee this summer. This video gives me hope that I am gonna be able to do it. You make this look so easy to do. Love the video keep them coming
Its because he has a lift and the proper tools. Thats over half the battle. I have always dreamed of a lift amd the older I get the more I actually need one. Its harder and harder to lay on that hard garage floor. 45 isnt old but its definitely much different than 25... much different.
@@ohioplayer-bl9em
I agree 100% I was a mechanic about 20 years ago. I still have 90% of my tools but a lift would make it a lot easier. The nice thing is my youngest son likes to work on vehicles also so he is gonna help me with the project
Is that what happened to the other 10 percent of your tools? ;)
@@ohioplayer-bl9em At 52 the struggle is real! My knees don't allow me to do a lot of things anymore...
something W220 owners most likely have experienced. i have a 2003 S500 (ABC hydraulic suspension) , i have found that using an impact to remove the lug bolts will damage and crack them I had replaced 3 sets. they will crack and you won't know until they snap or the wheel falls off, that happened too. discount tire just broke 2 again impacting them off 3 days ago, not even on install, but on removal... I found Best practice is to loosen with breaker bar, remove with a ratchet, not an impact.
Don't you love the over engineering of Mercedes lol, I have to take off my intake and ECM in order to change my Coils and plugs lol. I despise the weird zip ties they use, they are the zip ties with a push pin attached, there is no saving those. I just bought a whole kit of them lol. Great Work Ray! P.S. The wipers are auto rain sensing wipers, sometimes the rain sensor thinks dust is rain and will turn them on for a few cycles. I also think that you should replace the other strut, its best to replace those in pairs. Hey Ray, If you go topside on that new strut, and disconnect the connector, and take 2 jumpers, 1 from the most bottom pin, and another from the middle pin, and connect to a 9 volt battery, you can release some of the air to try to manually level it. ( just an idea if your looking for any) I had to do this on my Daughters Airmatic a few years ago.
I refuse the consider a 'C' Series 'High End'!
It's like if you have a bad brake caliber..you have new on one side and old on the other sooner or later the old will die..so my rule is do both no second trips..it works for me...everyone have a good day..
Suspension components should be fastened while pre loaded I.e. vehicle on its wheels otherwise some bushes gets destroyed in the long run
Ahh, general suspension work. German vehicles are quite interesting. We always made gravy when a BMW or Mercedes came in. The work was easy. The alignment was always the beast. You need to put weight bags in weird places and special tools to move caster and camber. Toe is always the same as an aftermarket shop. These vehicles are meant for high speed on the Autoban, therfore all the extra components.
Hello Ray. I’m glad your new Business appears to be doing well. Congrats on your new adventure in life. Nice to see your shop is growing and I hope it will continue growing. I guess you have to spend money to make the money. Congrats. Keep up the good work your videos are very educational and I’m learning lots from watching them.
Kind words man, one of the things I love about Ray's community is that all of us viewers love and support Ray's content and admire his ethics and personality. He is truly an awesome man, husband and mechanic.
Doing suspension parts in pairs is best practice. Budget doesn't always allow for it
Hi Ray, typically you need to recalibrate the ride height sensor when you make major suspension changes. That’s my experience as a Land Rover tech anyway. Also, if the car has more than 100k mi they should replace both sides.
On my Land Rover Discovery TD5 it's essential to disconnect the battery before unplugging the RHS or they loose calibration and need re setting. Not sure about Mercs though. Keep up the good work
@@6970958 did not disconnect, no MB subscription to reset?
Ray, that wire on the shock portion isn't a ride height sensor, rather it is the controller for the adjustable shock damping... you will notice near the raise lower button there is a suspension settings button with 2 leds just behind the shifter.
Ray, this is a car I would have said "take it to a dealer". You are brave 👍👍🤣.
Now, if he did we would not see Ray work his process.
Ray would miss out on a learning opportunity.
Also, Ray would miss out on some $$.
The owner most likely paid less for this repair had s/he taken it to the dealer.
@@rajbeekie7124 I.. TOTALLY agree 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm just not THAT brave 🤣.
The lesson reinforced for me from this video is: the simpler the better 🤣.... Like the Jeep 👍. I'm old, I worked on Army vehicles in the 90's when you opened the hood.... And there was just an engine 🤣🤣🤣.
The dealer told the owner to take it to Ray's. Reputation is everything!
@@spaceflight1019 ❤️❤️❤️❤️..... 🤔 Really? 🤣
I'm not sure many people would take a 17 year old Mercedes to a dealer for a repair. A lot of old Mercedes, that now cost three or four grand, started life as 50 to 100 grand luxury cars. The price of genuine spares for luxury cars, not just Mercedes, only reflects the car's value for about two years.
The ring is called a "Ferrule" and usually come in brass or nylon, and deform to, as you said, provide both a washer/seal for the plastic line to the machined fitting inlet. I was surprised to see the cut in it, usually they are an entire ring solid... possible source of air leak?
@Ray for the strut ride height you may need to hook up your scan tool and see if there is an option to do a reset on it to allow it to auto level it self out.....
I appreciate even more than usual these ones when it's something that I have not ever done before myself. It's not just enjoyable, I actually get to learn stuff...
Love the videos ray can't wait to see the next one 🕐🕐
Ray,
IIRC, there are certain models of Mercedes-Benz that you will DESTROY the air shocks if you raise it on the lift before pulling the fuse for the compressor. I was chewing the fat with the manager of a tire shop who told me one of his mechanics destroyed the air shocks when he forgot to pull the fuse. I'm uncertain as to which models this is applicable.
Holy crap they actually authorised this repair? Judging by the condition of the rest of the vehicle I was expecting them to continue the neglect and just refuse all repairs
Clowns buy these things and are too broke to afford proper repairs...typicals. All silly fake imagine and flash.
Reading between the lines and paying attention to the visual cues I think that one of Rays customers in the same facility buys and stores wholesale cars with the object being to pass inspection for resale not to make the cars perfect, good to have a customer like this for steady work and why Ray is hinting at expansion so soon.
@@roadiemort3589 yes it seems logical the car came from an auction as did the cruisers and the cobalt
@@petermallow I suspect that is what the set up is there, Hack out the door auction junk re sale. I worked at such a place, then became a hauler of such garbage.
@@roadiemort3589 Yep, 1000 % correct my man.
Went camping in the Everglades a few years back. The mosquitoes were BRUTAL!!!! I sprayed on so much OFF (R) that it was runny, and the lil vampires were still going for it!
In Northern Canada there are stories about mosquitoes carrying off small rodents. Oh and up there they view anybody using OFF as adding sauce to their meal.
Curious, is it reccomended to do them in pairs?
any car over 100k, you dont ask the price,,looks like this guy did..
Changing only one strut is like changing one spark plug. I always replace both.
I am very surprised that you took that car out, with the tyres in the condition they are in. The rear right looks ready to go any second (Judging from the first video).
I believe those are run flats, my BMW had them and aside from the fact that the wear was a lot like they were made from cheddar cheese and they cost $2,000 about every 14,000 miles to replace they did not run very well when flat. Max speed was about 35 (MPH) if you wanted to maintain any control. The wear pattern looks a lot like the car has a sport suspension as well, on my BMW the outside of the tires looked fine when you were standing next to the car but the inside edges were down to the steel and that was really only obvious when you laid on the ground or put it on the rack. But, I am sure Ray would not take the car out on the road with tires that bad if they were not run flat.
@@markwalker3499 my MB 4 matic came with Continental tires,at yearly inspection they said it needed new tires after 19,000 miles! What ? These tires only last 19k,they were like yes thats it! The car now has 73k and is on its 3rd set! Also it seems that brakes and tores go hand in hand on these cars! And no its not due to using cheap parts,the power stops have actually lasted longer than the originals!
I worked in printing for 15 years and they called a hammer gentle persuasion
Phil
Scotty Kilmer would say endless money pit.🤣
😂😂 I agree with Reaper and Scotty. Enjoy it for 10 years and get rid off it. Owning a pit like that from 10 years Old to Twenty surely will empty all your savings!
@@kimwinthernielsen9434 My C-Class that ive had for a while now isnt that expensive. Scotty dosent like any fucking car. That man should start his own damn car company if he has so mutch to point out on every damn car he touches
Replace suspension components in pairs when economically feasible for maximum ride enjoyment.
Just wanted to let you know my wife loves the"wife unit" tee i gave her. Wore it all day on Christmas. When she read the shirt she said "damn straight"
Hydraulic brake lines on modern high end bicycles use that compression fittings like that.
the car can be low for a variety of reasons but you will need to set the ride height using a autel or similar tool. once you manually set it if it leaks down or is off then you have other problems. its not always the air strut either, it can be a distribution block leak, sensor malfunction or a leak in the line.
With new strut a suspension calibration is required on the Airmatic or any air suspension vehicle. Measuring takes place at center of the wheel/rim to top of the wheel arch/fender, and needs to be input into the vehicle via DAS or good bidirectional OBD II, vehicle will level itself after measurement has been put in.
when you were putting that connector together i was shouting at the screen as i have two vito van that i have worked on and some of the things on mercs are a pain in the a*se to work on with out taking one side of it apart .you learnt some thing new today .
Stay tuned for more adventures of Rainman Klaus' Repairs.
All you had to do was disconnect the upper ball joint, drops really low. Calibrate the system and good to go. And Arnott struts are the go to for any european car.
Hi Ray, I am a long time fan, however have got a couple of suggestions on this video. First I’m not sure that the levelling issue on the front end means that you need to replace the other strut. Certainly on my ML Mercedes the ride height sensor is seperate to the AIRMATIC strut itself and thus what I below you have is a suspension calibration issue. What I have found is that simply raising and lowering the vehicle several times addresses any calibration issues else you need a scan tool capable of doing a Mercedes suspension calibration. My other suggestion is that I didn’t see you pull the AIRMATIC fuse whilst work on the Air Suspension components and finally! Cheers Drew
HEY, RAY: just take it over to Mercedes-Benz of Sarasota on Clark Road, and have one of their mechanics calibrate the air ride system. Only takes a few minutes, should be their smallest unit of labor (hopefully, 15 minutes). They'll connect an ATS gauge to it, to check the pressures, and test the system for leaks with CO2. They'll use an Autologic tablet (somewhat like the one you bought from SnapOn) to perform an automatic ride height calibration. Assuming your own tablet cannot perform the calibration (which is somewhat unlikely, but not impossible).
Mention that you'd prefer to have things like this done by them instead of spending the money for the specialized equipment that you'd only have a use for very rarely or having it done by an independent "foreign car mechanic" that you cannot be responsible for... maybe they'll jump you right in ahead of other jobs, since it's like a quick in & out, and possibly - *possibly* , because it's an MB dealership, lol - give you a break on the bill.
I believe the button with the up arrow is used when lifting the vehicle . It locks the air suspension. At least that how it was on on vehicles I have had (German) that also had an air suspension .
So, the drivers side sensor was most likely knocked out of whack for the ride height to be that much off. Also NEVER enter calibration mode as these other comments are saying. If you dont understand what needs to happen in calibration mode DO NOT ENTER into that mode. 😅
Hei Ray
The lump at lower part of strut is component that adjusts flow in strut. So it effects on how hard or soft the ride is. For Audi u can buy only bags but in MB airmatic u need to swap whole package.
That Benz looks brand new. If they detail it and clean up the plastic on the headlights, it'd look showroom new. I love this design, but won't own another Benz. Too expensive to maintain, but they are awesome cars. Look at Ray pumpin out the content every single day. Gott alove the HUSTLE, Mr. Ray. Hope you and the fam had a wonderful and blessed Christmas buddy. Same to all the FanRays here. HNY all
you could have put the hood into the maintenance position, which is in the straight up position. It is done with the locks at the hood hinge left and right side. no hood prop needed.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for making this video.