this is the absolute best way to lay track. it is professional, unlike many who claim to do it correctly, and also, you do not need to replace ties as well when finished. i commend you very highly on your method and demonstration.
I just wanted to say that the explanation of your method helped me out enormously. Thank you very much and continue to have fun fun running trains. Cheers.
Nice tip. I've been a model railroader for about 35 years and a professional model maker for about 25 years and it never even occurred to me to stagger the joints like that .... you are never too old to learn.
Thank you for the kind words. Yes i know folks talk about soldering and electrical current but if there are no expansion joints then during summer and winter the solder will break and or tracks will kink and throw the tracks out of guage. Hope it turns out well for you.
@@westwonic i would say at least 5 but indo about 10 ties just to make the easement a smoother transition . My radius on this layout when i had it was a 36 inch radius curve
Just wanted to say a big 'thank you'. This method of offsetting rail joiners has worked great on my new layout, no kinks or derailments. It can be quite fiddly, but we'll worth the effort.
hi from John in the UK, just staring to think of laying my first ever track including gradient or helix. This is the best video on the subject that I have seen anywhere so far. Fantastic, now to look at your other videos.
I think the way you lay flex track is a great way and it works great I lay my flex now the way you do It works great even on straight track thanks for these video I learn alot
Russell I'm hopeless at soldering, so I am going to give your way a go. I have to work an 18" radius S shape section, so here goes. Thanks Russell, Alan
I like this idea. Very simple and easy. However I think I may still add solder for simple rigidness and electrical reasons after doing this method (having the nails in and track interlocked will be a great start though) on my broad curves on my layout. I don't have a helix but I run minimum of 22-24in curves and in most places I have 36-48in curves. All these curves would benefit from this method.
i may just try again but i have had horrible trouble with that and so has my club as well but dosent hurt to try on a section again. but in building that helix i havent had trouble with power loss and i do add feeder wire on every 3ft of flex track.. i live here in jacksonville florida now but it is some weird weather here as well..
@YTisawsum for the mainline i use atlas code 100 and sidings i use atlas code 83 and industrial i handlay track with code 70 or 83. once it is weathered up it looks good and would'nt matter what size u you use. its just your prefrence. code 100 is a lot more durable.
glad to see you could use the idea and that it works...i swear by it and i am so felt the same as you once i had done it...said i wold never go back to the old way...
@kanishirosouthwester No worries. The way that I look at mine is that its not going to be run all the time so if its a little steeper than MR standards so be it. The grade is only going to be for interchange with the upper and lower deck, not for continuous running.
@myoung4828 no soldering involved. if you solder the joints you leave no room for expansion or contraction during climate change and this would cause either a big gap or major kinks.
just depends on the climate in your area and where it is located .. my layout is i my garage and the humidity is horrible so it does expand and contract between summer and winter well what winter we do get. when i was lived in california i never had a problem with joints
@Jacko39769 the loose side is onthe out side but it does not matter cause if you choose to bend it the other way just flip the track around and it will do exactly the same thing. this method is done through out my whole layout and i wouldn't do it any other way.
mmm that's one way to put it except if you watch the video you dont put the pin in to hard as it explains only till it hits the top of the tie to keep it snug. rule 101 in any track laying you never put the pin in tight or it will cause the track to go out of gauge. this is why before putting ballast or anything else down on it you test it as we should always do.
no soldering the rail joiners as this leaves no room for the track to expand or contract. weather u are in a room or garage. if soldered it will kink during the contraction and expanding. hope this helps
Hi. I am a novice and while I think I understand most of your flex track demonstration, I have a couple questions. 1) is the movable rail still on the inside of both pieces you connect? ; 2) why do you trim the ties in the three places you show - I assume so the rail joiners will slide on but I want to verify. and 3) what do you do when you get to a point where you are done with flex track and need your last end to attach to piece of sectional track? Thank you in advance.
Hello there and thank you for looking at my videos and taking intrest. So the first question the moveable Rail can be on either side. Just depends what side you want it to be on. Second question I trim the 3 ties so that the rail joiners Wil fit and be in place with no bump. 3 question at the end of the track I use rail nippers or a dremel tool and cut off wheel to make the ends even so that you can connect any piece of track to it. I hope this helps and that if you need anymore help please ask. It why we are in the hobby to give back and help each other
Helps a lot. Thanks. One more question: Electrical continuity - as un-soldered rail joiners are notorious for loss of track power in sections of flex track rail, do you run feeders to each section of rail?
I wish I would have seen this last week. I work with N scale flex track and I would have loved to have done this. Great tip. Do you think this will work for n scale flex code 80?
@trainfrog1 this will work on any scale sorry it took so long to write back. we just completed a 20x20 ft layout in N scale for one of our members and i was in charge of the track laying and it worked just the same.
@kanishirosouthwester I there, I am mew to model rairoadling, loved you video, when you curv the flex track, can you curv it either way. I have heard that there is a loose side, which side does the loose side go on. Old Dave
i solder feeder wires to each section of flex track. i do this in the middle of the flex track section so it gives it an even amount of flow. hope this hepls
@AllenRockwell i never use to as well until a few good friends at the model railroad club i am at have taught me. they do this a lot especially with handlaying the track. thanks for the comments
Wow... I never thought about offsetting the joints. Just like the railroads do on a curve.They sure wouldnt have botrh joints acrosss from one another. This sure will help my kinking problem, do to temp. changes. Also, I forgot, do you put sliding rail on outside of curve or vise versa? Thanks...
Hi Guys thanks for the reply, the long peice of rail that was protuding how has he come up up that, has he keeped sliding it through as he has come around the curv. Robbo
Offsetting track like that looks good but does it work on smaller radii? I'm laying some five ft radius track but would the curvature to too acute for your method which I'd like to use. Tried soldering but didn't work out. Unless it's my MTH Mohawk...the front bogie is extremely sensitive to track changes and bounces offf the rails at the slightest thing. Loco works fine in reverse so could be the front pilot.
@sooline2551 thanks. hey i havent forgot about your layout help and i am gonna try and make a video and use my layout as an example to try and see if this helps you while trying to decide on the two levels
Yes this works on all scales. Just be sure to use decent radius and take your time to ensure all flashing of the spike your trimming is flat to get that smooth transition. Once u get it down you will never go back cause of the smooth transition and no kinks
I'm surprised: no soldering? Just those rail joints? Also, when you slide in the other track, it fits _exactly_... mine never do. One is always a bit longer or shorter then the other. What's the secret?
Appreciate that comment but no need since there are feeder wires ever 3 ft and when u solder the track they will crack and break casuing more pain after all the hard work is put in .. i have not had any issues nor any of my fellow modelers.. the trick is making sure u have feeder wires to support the electrical pick up ..
Thank you and yes It will stay flat and even. You qont see any lift. If u watch closely u wont see any lift in the wheels. Been doing this for a long time now. Doing it now on my new layout that I am building
Hello, My flex sits on 1/8 " cork, which is glued to 1" foam over a 1/2" plywood base. What method do you suggest to fasten the track down. ? I tried your method and it works great. More offset is required on tighter curves though. Perhaps 12-15 rails. Bob
Robert Schworm Hello and thank you for viewing my channel I appreciate it... and as for you question there are a couple of ways you could go .. first is that you can use your spike nails still to tack down the track work and still works second would be to use liquid nails and works really well. Just remember that when using liquid nails you need to weight it down until it sticks and then it will be fine .. hope this helps and hope it comes out well for you .. Sincerely Alex Rivera
When you lay the track with the joints alternating like this do you need to have the loose rail on the outside or inside of the track? Seems like that would be opposite the standard way with the loose rail on the inside.
Dave D can be on either side . just like the video shows the loose rail being on the side of the rail that is the shortest which then makes the rails offset .. hope that makes sense and helps
this is the absolute best way to lay track. it is professional, unlike many who claim to do it correctly, and also, you do not need to replace ties as well when finished. i commend you very highly on your method and demonstration.
well, well, well what a good idea
I just wanted to say that the explanation of your method helped me out enormously. Thank you very much and continue to have fun fun running trains. Cheers.
Thank u and i am so glad this was able to help u out
Nice tip. I've been a model railroader for about 35 years and a professional model maker for about 25 years and it never even occurred to me to stagger the joints like that .... you are never too old to learn.
Thank you. I will try this method. I don't want to solder my rails due to temperature issues in my train shed during summer and winter. Good job !
Thank you for the kind words. Yes i know folks talk about soldering and electrical current but if there are no expansion joints then during summer and winter the solder will break and or tracks will kink and throw the tracks out of guage. Hope it turns out well for you.
@@kanishirosouthwester Thanks for your quick reply. One query; what number of sleepers or dimension is the minimum for the rail joiner offset?
@@westwonic i would say at least 5 but indo about 10 ties just to make the easement a smoother transition . My radius on this layout when i had it was a 36 inch radius curve
@@kanishirosouthwester my radius is 24 inch, so I will go for 12 sleepers. Many thanks
Just wanted to say a big 'thank you'. This method of offsetting rail joiners has worked great on my new layout, no kinks or derailments. It can be quite fiddly, but we'll worth the effort.
hi from John in the UK, just staring to think of laying my first ever track including gradient or helix. This is the best video on the subject that I have seen anywhere so far. Fantastic, now to look at your other videos.
Just finished laying out my track. Your video was very helpful. Great advice on installing flex track..Thanks man...
You are the Third i know of that use this Method, but you have the first how to demonstration I`ve found:)
Thanks for sharing.
Great tutorial! This method makes perfect sense. I've never understood why anyone would assemble flex track with the rail joints next to each other.
Wow , been in this hobby for 50 years and this is what I should of been doin all the time ,, THANK YOU
I think the way you lay flex track is a great way and it works great I lay my flex now the way you do It works great even on straight track thanks for these video I learn alot
I like the train horn in the back ground. Its coming along really nicely. You are really good at explaining things.
You are a very good person to go to for info.. Thank you again. I love the video and what you can tell us about how YOU like to make it easier.
Great info video. That shoe\wed me something i've never thought of doing. Really nice work. Thank you Dennis
Thank you for your information. I think it will work better than any other track laying
Thanks for the tip. I am rebuilding my layout and this tip will help greatly. thanks for posting
Great idea about offsetting the track, been having a time with the corners on my layout.sometimes the simplest ideas are the best thanks very much
Thankyou for the tip. I am about to use flexitrack for the first time on my N Gauge layout, I now know how to go about it.
very intresting good idea which is handy since i just purchased a bunch of track to get started on my ho scale layout
Great info for beginners like me. I have been doing wrong sense I attempted an H.O. lay out.
I hope this helps as it has helped throughout my railroad lessons . Happy railroading
Great piece. I'm just starting to put my trackwork down and this makes SO much sense. Thanks in advance, I know I'll be pleased with the results.
This has to be the best way to lay track for smooth running thank you!
I hope this will help ..thank you for the reply.. best way i have ever learned as well
Offsetting the rails was genius! So smart.
I tried it and I'll never go back to the old ways I did it. You da man!
Cheers this will save me the problems that arise at the beginning of building a model layout
Great job Alex, I'm in the process of building my layout , my have to try this method and see how it works... Thanks!!
Just the method I was looking for while I'm constructing my helix. Great
Nice technique and video, thumbs up! I like the way the rail ends line up.
Awesome Tip! Starting my layout and this will be extremely helpful. Thanks
Russell I'm hopeless at soldering, so I am going to give your way a go. I have to work an 18" radius S shape section, so here goes.
Thanks Russell, Alan
I like this idea. Very simple and easy. However I think I may still add solder for simple rigidness and electrical reasons after doing this method (having the nails in and track interlocked will be a great start though) on my broad curves on my layout. I don't have a helix but I run minimum of 22-24in curves and in most places I have 36-48in curves. All these curves would benefit from this method.
You're right, I wish I had done this the first time around. Would've made track laying/running a hell of a lot easier. Nice video.
i may just try again but i have had horrible trouble with that and so has my club as well but dosent hurt to try on a section again. but in building that helix i havent had trouble with power loss and i do add feeder wire on every 3ft of flex track.. i live here in jacksonville florida now but it is some weird weather here as well..
@YTisawsum for the mainline i use atlas code 100 and sidings i use atlas code 83 and industrial i handlay track with code 70 or 83. once it is weathered up it looks good and would'nt matter what size u you use. its just your prefrence. code 100 is a lot more durable.
glad to see you could use the idea and that it works...i swear by it and i am so felt the same as you once i had done it...said i wold never go back to the old way...
I like your way of keeping it simple THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Glad this was helpful and hope this works for you
@kanishirosouthwester No worries. The way that I look at mine is that its not going to be run all the time so if its a little steeper than MR standards so be it. The grade is only going to be for interchange with the upper and lower deck, not for continuous running.
Great job Alex! I wish I had seen something like this before I did my layout, next time. 5* on you're explanation, very informative video.
thanks mate,makes me wonder why people cut the whole sleeper out to join when you just cut the tie to slip joiner under.Nice work.
Brilliant! I'll start doing that immediately! thank you for sharing this!!!!
thanks for the tip it will help me. I will use this trick along with the trick Cody from MR gave me to connect to sectional track.
@myoung4828 no soldering involved. if you solder the joints you leave no room for expansion or contraction during climate change and this would cause either a big gap or major kinks.
just depends on the climate in your area and where it is located .. my layout is i my garage and the humidity is horrible so it does expand and contract between summer and winter well what winter we do get. when i was lived in california i never had a problem with joints
@Jacko39769 the loose side is onthe out side but it does not matter cause if you choose to bend it the other way just flip the track around and it will do exactly the same thing. this method is done through out my whole layout and i wouldn't do it any other way.
Great job ... thanks for sharing. .keep up the great work
That is a Great tip! Thank you
Thanks!!! I’m just starting a modular layout and this will help because I’m doing all flex track also it looks realistic!!!
Columbus Ohio Trains
Glad this video can help and hope it works out . Cant wait for you to do a video and see the progress
That is a great idea it, Works perfect on my ho scale layout which has 26" radius curves
mmm that's one way to put it except if you watch the video you dont put the pin in to hard as it explains only till it hits the top of the tie to keep it snug. rule 101 in any track laying you never put the pin in tight or it will cause the track to go out of gauge. this is why before putting ballast or anything else down on it you test it as we should always do.
I will try this tomorrow over soldering. Thank you
Dave Ollie metal head you are most welcome.. Please let me know if I can help you out anymore. Let me know how this turns out for you..
no soldering the rail joiners as this leaves no room for the track to expand or contract. weather u are in a room or garage. if soldered it will kink during the contraction and expanding. hope this helps
Very nice. Thanks for posting.
Excellent tech.....!
Thanks for the tip!
yes this will work on all track. you will enjoy this after it being done.
great good method i like it .its my new standard.even for straight runs,.thanks for the heads up
Russell I do a 2 inch center line and usually works out great for spacing . if I an hearing you correctly it's from the spacing of the track correct
Yes that is correct
Great idea have to use this thanks for helping ...Alan
Hi. I am a novice and while I think I understand most of your flex track demonstration, I have a couple questions. 1) is the movable rail still on the inside of both pieces you connect? ; 2) why do you trim the ties in the three places you show - I assume so the rail joiners will slide on but I want to verify. and 3) what do you do when you get to a point where you are done with flex track and need your last end to attach to piece of sectional track? Thank you in advance.
Hello there and thank you for looking at my videos and taking intrest. So the first question the moveable Rail can be on either side. Just depends what side you want it to be on. Second question I trim the 3 ties so that the rail joiners Wil fit and be in place with no bump. 3 question at the end of the track I use rail nippers or a dremel tool and cut off wheel to make the ends even so that you can connect any piece of track to it. I hope this helps and that if you need anymore help please ask. It why we are in the hobby to give back and help each other
Helps a lot. Thanks. One more question: Electrical continuity - as un-soldered rail joiners are notorious for loss of track power in sections of flex track rail, do you run feeders to each section of rail?
really nice job. great instruction. thank you!
I wish I would have seen this last week. I work with N scale flex track and I would have loved to have done this. Great tip. Do you think this will work for n scale flex code 80?
Great Video! Laid lots track That’s new!
Thank you and appreciate the comment
@trainfrog1 this will work on any scale sorry it took so long to write back. we just completed a 20x20 ft layout in N scale for one of our members and i was in charge of the track laying and it worked just the same.
THANKS MAN, I`M TRYING THIS ON MY LAYOUT.
@retrainrun thanks totally appreciate the comment. still need to finish and then get really detailed like your layout.
@kanishirosouthwester I there, I am mew to model rairoadling, loved you video, when you curv the flex track, can you curv it either way. I have heard that there is a loose side, which side does the loose side go on.
Old Dave
i solder feeder wires to each section of flex track. i do this in the middle of the flex track section so it gives it an even amount of flow. hope this hepls
Thats a great idea. But will it work on peco n scale . It seems to be alittle harder.
Thanks Dana
This will work on Pecos N scale track. Should not be any harder than in H.O except that it is smaller in scale
@AllenRockwell i never use to as well until a few good friends at the model railroad club i am at have taught me. they do this a lot especially with handlaying the track. thanks for the comments
Wow... I never thought about offsetting the joints. Just like the railroads do on a curve.They sure wouldnt have botrh joints acrosss from one another. This sure will help my kinking problem, do to temp. changes. Also, I forgot, do you put sliding rail on outside of curve or vise versa? Thanks...
Thanks for posting...Works great!
Hi Guys thanks for the reply, the long peice of rail that was protuding how has he come up up that, has he keeped sliding it through as he has come around the curv.
Robbo
so simple yet so impressive
what kind of track do you use, thanx for the tips!
What spacing do you recommend for centerline to centerline on curve sections versus straight? I do not run any steam locomotives.
Offsetting track like that looks good but does it work on smaller radii? I'm laying some five ft radius track but would the curvature to too acute for your method which I'd like to use. Tried soldering but didn't work out. Unless it's my MTH Mohawk...the front bogie is extremely sensitive to track changes and bounces offf the rails at the slightest thing. Loco works fine in reverse so could be the front pilot.
I like this. Thanks. Question: is the moveable rail on the outside or inside?
Thank you for the comment. I like mine on the outside but it will work on either.... just make sure to trim off those plastic rail nails
@sooline2551 thanks. hey i havent forgot about your layout help and i am gonna try and make a video and use my layout as an example to try and see if this helps you while trying to decide on the two levels
This will work on Pecos track in N scale..should not be any harder than H.O. except that it is smaller scale
Thanks for the tutorial on doing the flex track. Will this method work with N scale flex track as well? I like your method.
Yes this works on all scales. Just be sure to use decent radius and take your time to ensure all flashing of the spike your trimming is flat to get that smooth transition. Once u get it down you will never go back cause of the smooth transition and no kinks
@@kanishirosouthwester thanks for the reply, I really do appreciate it and I'll try this on my next level.
awesome how to brother thank for the tips!!
I like the train horn in the background :-)
I would of never thought of doing that thanks :-)
I'm surprised: no soldering? Just those rail joints? Also, when you slide in the other track, it fits _exactly_... mine never do. One is always a bit longer or shorter then the other. What's the secret?
Excellent video! Thanks!
Awesome how to video on how to install flex track
Thank you and hope it helps you
I'm sure it will help a lot. Thank you
GREAT METHOD , BUT, WITH YOU ELECTRICAL CONNECTION, I DO BELIEVE YOU SHOULD SOLDER ON YOUR RAIL JOINERS.
Appreciate that comment but no need since there are feeder wires ever 3 ft and when u solder the track they will crack and break casuing more pain after all the hard work is put in .. i have not had any issues nor any of my fellow modelers.. the trick is making sure u have feeder wires to support the electrical pick up ..
What about the rail joiner ? Doesn't it lift that little bit of track and give a slight wobble to the cars
Hello great tips, just one question. When you install the rail joiners does the rail lift off the ties? Or does the track stay flat and even?
Thank you and yes It will stay flat and even. You qont see any lift. If u watch closely u wont see any lift in the wheels. Been doing this for a long time now. Doing it now on my new layout that I am building
@ballparkfrank10 yup i know the feeling and it has made it a lot easier.
Great tips; thanks.
excellent explanation, thank you
Also, do you solder your rail joiners?
Great info, thank you
Can it also be used on N-Gage as well as HO??
Yes this works on n scale as well.
Hello, My flex sits on 1/8 " cork, which is glued to 1" foam over a 1/2" plywood base. What method do you suggest to fasten the track down. ?
I tried your method and it works great. More offset is required on tighter curves though. Perhaps 12-15 rails.
Bob
Robert Schworm
Hello and thank you for viewing my channel I appreciate it... and as for you question there are a couple of ways you could go .. first is that you can use your spike nails still to tack down the track work and still works second would be to use liquid nails and works really well. Just remember that when using liquid nails you need to weight it down until it sticks and then it will be fine .. hope this helps and hope it comes out well for you ..
Sincerely
Alex Rivera
really good video thank you
i have peco n gauge code 55 will this technique work do you think?
Can I ask what kind of cork is it that you’re (were) using when you did this video?
I am using homosote for subroadbed and i use regular cork on top of that
that was every helpful, thank you
72zodiac
You are welcome. Hope yours turns out great and works for you
When you lay the track with the joints alternating like this do you need to have the loose rail on the outside or inside of the track? Seems like that would be opposite the standard way with the loose rail on the inside.
Dave D
can be on either side . just like the video shows the loose rail being on the side of the rail that is the shortest which then makes the rails offset .. hope that makes sense and helps