The BEST instructional video I've ever seen about building a railway helix. Simply explained with full details, good lighting so viewers can actually see what's being done and some good tips for soldering flexitrack joints on curves. Thanx.
Thanks for these videos! I’m about to have my first go using flexi track soon and a couple of your videos have some really good advice I’m definitely going to use! Cheers!
Nice tip on securing and laying track. I'll use your method, as post repair of helix track is defnitely something I want to avoid, and yours looks to be the best method I've seen to date - Thanks
Nicely done Jeff, thats how I do it ! I'm building my first helix and i'll be screwing down my rails as well, where I live the temp goes from 5 deg /c to around 38-40 so expansion is a must since the layout is in a big shed ,and a helix has a lot of track in it that does expand !. Thanks for posting, well done. Cheers Gregg.
John -- Thank you for the kind words! Many years ago there was an advertising campaign in the US that was hosted by the Natural Gas association. They were trying to get people to use more natural gas appliances instead of electric, fuel oil, and so on. "Now we're cooking with gas" was the commercial message that indicated success or the use of the best, latest equipment. Sorry for the confusion.
Would you consider putting a little hot glue on the bottom of the track to help hold it in place - besides using the 5/8" screws? I would think after a while, the screws could come loose and or track shift if it's not tight enough. And then too tight will cause the track to bend in the middle causing the rails to come together slightly in some areas??? Or am I making too much of a big deal? I love your helix design. Best I've seen.
Why do you use the screws to secure the track to the roadbed? Looks a bit obtrusive doesn't it? Or are you not worried about looks as the helix will probably be behind the scenes anyway?
No expansion problems at all. There's a bit of "give" or flex between the attachment screws, so if the track expands, it can flex laterally just a tiny amount. If the track is fully glued down, as some people do, that much flex may not be possible, though I have never glued track down like that so I can't say for sure.
I can only speak for my experience. I think the hot glue is unnecessary, and I don't use it. I have not had screws come loose during years of helix use. The ties are not screwed too tight because the plywood does not compress like cork or homasote, which could cause the effect you mentioned. The setup as shown seems to work very nicely, and trouble free, for me anyway. I hope this helps!
The screws used to fasten the track down are 5/8 inch long, #4 or #6, chosen so the pan head doesn't quite slip through the washer, while not protruding too far above the washer, either. Visit a hardware store and experiment. -Jeff Johnston
@Silver1Sprg - Going from roadbed to just track on wood is a matter of shimming the helix plywood roadbed to the correct track level. See the April 2008 Model Railroader for my article "Construct a Simple and Reliable Helix" that explains all about starting the grade. Good luck!
Elder: Yes, those screws are obtrusive, and that's addressed in the video (Or I thought it was ...), but since the helix will be concealed, that's not a problem. The system works very well for me. Obviously, the visible trackage on the layout does not use those screws and washers.
I'm getting ready to build my 7th layout. Never tried a Helix, but your video has inspired me to give it a try and I'll have a two level layout in a 10 x 11 foot room (HO). QUESTION: How do you START the Helix - going from roadbed to just track on wood, and getting the right grade. I know once the first level is done, the rest is easy. I need this answered, cause I'm a bit lost on how to start the grade. Thanks
Very cool & informative video. One question I was wondering in the consideration of building my own is if I should use a road bed of either foam or that spongy foam stuff. I realize the helix is enclosed but I was thinking the helix may act like a sound baffle similar to a speaker enclosure and help to amplify noise. So I was thinking of using foam roadbed to deaden the sound. Any thoughts or suggestions on noise from the helix? Does what you enclose it in muffle the sound good enough? Thx.
Do you have any problems with track expansion/contraction using welded rail on the helix? This looks like a great system. I'm in the beginning stages of building my layout. Hanging drywall on the walls now.
Skip - If you mean the subroadbed construction, sure, no reason why N scale would be any different. If you're referring to the method of securing the track with the screws and washers, I'm not sure. I've never worked with N scale track. It means you'd need to use some very small screws and washers, but as long as you choose hardware that wouldn't interfere with wheel flanges on the sides or low-hanging coupler trip pins, and the screws were long enough to hold the track in place, is may work.
Hi Jeff, I found very interesting your vid (I also watched the ones about your second level) because of the very simple and efective technique you use. Your vids are very well done with fine shoots and clear explanations. It was very funny for me hear that saying you used at 6:37. Please tell me how it is ?. Is "we're cooked with gases" or something like that. Can you tell me the right spelling, please. Thanks in advance. By the way, I'm from Chile and I model in N scale. Cheers, John.
Jeff, Thanks for your informative video. I have one question though. I live in Melbourne Australia and we have a temperature range from around 40f to 110f and I was wondering if you have any trouble with rail expansion and if all the rail joints in the whole helix are soldered. Cheers Steve.
Jeff, great video. My question is about wiring the helix. Do you have a set distancebetween feeders and how do you run the track bus in the helix? Thanks!
Greetings Ernie, thank you for the kind words. I use one set of feeders per level or loop. Every track joint is soldered so in my opinion anyway, any more than that is unnecessary. I have the power bus lines at the bottom level, and ran the feeders from the rails down the inside of the helix to the bus. I added the feeders as each level was built for ease of access before there was any track directly above. In retrospect (always the best vision) I could have run a power bus up the inside of the helix and reduced the length of the individual track feeder wires but oh well, the system as done works fine. I also was not overly concerned with wiring cosmetics inside the helix, shame on me for being lazy that way! I have a photo of the finished area but I'm not sure how to attach one here.
I notice you are soldering the inside and outside of the rails. I was told not to solder the inside of the rails to prevent the wheel flanges from hitting it. How do you prevent this from happening?
+Russell Scohy Hi, I solder the rail joiner connecting the rails, not the head of the rail, and I use just enough solder to accomplish the task of jointing the pieces solidly together. The solder does not need to be built up into a huge duck poop pile on top of the rail joiner, which is what you'd have to do to have any solder affect the flanges, as that pile of solder does nothing for the strength of the joint. You'd also be filing down the joint, as necessary, to clean up any excess. But if you just solder the rail joiner, there will be no such interfering excess to have to remove. Be sure to use flux as it makes the solder flow into the joint far more smoothly. Experiment and practice and you'll see how easy it is to achieve successful results.
The only constructive criticism I can can see is that you have your cordless drill clutch set to nine, with my cordless if I turn the clutch down to 1 or 2 it would tighten the screw to just about bite, Among other things I fit kitchens so the clutch is an integral part of the job. Great job though and I will use this info :)
Hi, I almost never use the clutch, it's normally operating on drill setting. After a lot of years using these things that's what I'm comfortable with. I prefer going by feel and sound when driving screws, and seldom have stripping problems.
The BEST instructional video I've ever seen about building a railway helix. Simply explained with full details, good lighting so viewers can actually see what's being done and some good tips for soldering flexitrack joints on curves. Thanx.
Thanks for these videos! I’m about to have my first go using flexi track soon and a couple of your videos have some really good advice I’m definitely going to use! Cheers!
Nice tip on securing and laying track. I'll use your method, as post repair of helix track is defnitely something I want to avoid, and yours looks to be the best method I've seen to date - Thanks
Nicely done Jeff, thats how I do it ! I'm building my first helix and i'll be screwing down my rails as well, where I live the temp goes from 5 deg /c to around 38-40 so expansion is a must since the layout is in a big shed ,and a helix has a lot of track in it that does expand !. Thanks for posting, well done.
Cheers Gregg.
G'day Jeff, finished my Helix and used your screw method as I mentioned in a earlier post,worked a treat!. Thanks again for the idea!
Cheers Gregg.
Thank you for a very informative video ! Saw it mentioned in the MRH magazine forum and am glad I found your UA-cam channel.
Morning Sir
Great vid very very helpful thanks for sharing :)
Cheers Mark
Great video thanks & a lovely guy that knows what he's doing.. Thanks again from the UK.!
Excellent ideas. I'm going to build a layout in my office and refer to your technique. Never built a helix, but finally ready to take the challenge.
John -- Thank you for the kind words! Many years ago there was an advertising campaign in the US that was hosted by the Natural Gas association. They were trying to get people to use more natural gas appliances instead of electric, fuel oil, and so on. "Now we're cooking with gas" was the commercial message that indicated success or the use of the best, latest equipment. Sorry for the confusion.
Superb!!! Good job!!
Gary
Watertown, NY
A really nice job Jeff!!
Just found your channel.
OUTSTANDING !!!
BEST HELIX VID I HAVE FOUND !!!
👍👍👍 AND SUBED !!!
HAVE TO BING WATCH YOUR VIDS !!!
Thanks for sharing your experience
Great videos I'm getting started with my Helix and your ideas, instructions will be very useful.
Would you consider putting a little hot glue on the bottom of the track to help hold it in place - besides using the 5/8" screws? I would think after a while, the screws could come loose and or track shift if it's not tight enough. And then too tight will cause the track to bend in the middle causing the rails to come together slightly in some areas??? Or am I making too much of a big deal? I love your helix design. Best I've seen.
Why do you use the screws to secure the track to the roadbed? Looks a bit obtrusive doesn't it? Or are you not worried about looks as the helix will probably be behind the scenes anyway?
Hi, I use about a 1/16" bit. Experiment with the screws you use, drill test holes and make sure the screw hangs in there securely.
Nice clean work
No expansion problems at all. There's a bit of "give" or flex between the attachment screws, so if the track expands, it can flex laterally just a tiny amount. If the track is fully glued down, as some people do, that much flex may not be possible, though I have never glued track down like that so I can't say for sure.
I can only speak for my experience. I think the hot glue is unnecessary, and I don't use it. I have not had screws come loose during years of helix use. The ties are not screwed too tight because the plywood does not compress like cork or homasote, which could cause the effect you mentioned. The setup as shown seems to work very nicely, and trouble free, for me anyway. I hope this helps!
The screws used to fasten the track down are 5/8 inch long, #4 or #6, chosen so the pan head doesn't quite slip through the washer, while not protruding too far above the washer, either. Visit a hardware store and experiment.
-Jeff Johnston
Many thanks for your reply Jeff. Now I understand better your saying. Cheers John, from Chile.
Good video. Will give it a try.
@Silver1Sprg - Going from roadbed to just track on wood is a matter of shimming the helix plywood roadbed to the correct track level. See the April 2008 Model Railroader for my article "Construct a Simple and Reliable Helix" that explains all about starting the grade.
Good luck!
Elder:
Yes, those screws are obtrusive, and that's addressed in the video (Or I thought it was ...), but since the helix will be concealed, that's not a problem. The system works very well for me. Obviously, the visible trackage on the layout does not use those screws and washers.
Well done!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us other enthusiasts.
And thank you for the kind words!
I'm getting ready to build my 7th layout. Never tried a Helix, but your video has inspired me to give it a try and I'll have a two level layout in a 10 x 11 foot room (HO).
QUESTION: How do you START the Helix - going from roadbed to just track on wood, and getting the right grade. I know once the first level is done, the rest is easy. I need this answered, cause I'm a bit lost on how to start the grade. Thanks
Very cool & informative video. One question I was wondering in the consideration of building my own is if I should use a road bed of either foam or that spongy foam stuff. I realize the helix is enclosed but I was thinking the helix may act like a sound baffle similar to a speaker enclosure and help to amplify noise. So I was thinking of using foam roadbed to deaden the sound. Any thoughts or suggestions on noise from the helix? Does what you enclose it in muffle the sound good enough? Thx.
What type of solider do you use to do track and DCC decoders? And what kind of soldiering iron do you recommend?
Greg
Screws and washer in HO Anybody with thoughts for N Scale
I was just planning on using latex glue ?
Do you have any problems with track expansion/contraction using welded rail on the helix? This looks like a great system. I'm in the beginning stages of building my layout. Hanging drywall on the walls now.
Jeff, do you have a video that demonstrates how you laid out the cuts for the helix arcs on the plywood sheet?
Trés bien merci beaucoup
Skip - If you mean the subroadbed construction, sure, no reason why N scale would be any different.
If you're referring to the method of securing the track with the screws and washers, I'm not sure. I've never worked with N scale track. It means you'd need to use some very small screws and washers, but as long as you choose hardware that wouldn't interfere with wheel flanges on the sides or low-hanging coupler trip pins, and the screws were long enough to hold the track in place, is may work.
Hi Jeff, I found very interesting your vid (I also watched the ones about your second level) because of the very simple and efective technique you use. Your vids are very well done with fine shoots and clear explanations.
It was very funny for me hear that saying you used at 6:37. Please tell me how it is ?. Is "we're cooked with gases" or something like that. Can you tell me the right spelling, please. Thanks in advance.
By the way, I'm from Chile and I model in N scale. Cheers, John.
Jeff, what size drill bit do you use to pre-drill the holes for the screws?
are these videos able to be purchased on DVD and what grade is ur helix set at for the climb and will it fit a model double stack train
Jeff, Thanks for your informative video. I have one question though. I live in Melbourne Australia and we have a temperature range from around 40f to 110f and I was wondering if you have any trouble with rail expansion and if all the rail joints in the whole helix are soldered. Cheers Steve.
Jeff, great video. My question is about wiring the helix. Do you have a set distancebetween feeders and how do you run the track bus in the helix? Thanks!
Greetings Ernie, thank you for the kind words. I use one set of feeders per level or loop. Every track joint is soldered so in my opinion anyway, any more than that is unnecessary. I have the power bus lines at the bottom level, and ran the feeders from the rails down the inside of the helix to the bus. I added the feeders as each level was built for ease of access before there was any track directly above. In retrospect (always the best vision) I could have run a power bus up the inside of the helix and reduced the length of the individual track feeder wires but oh well, the system as done works fine. I also was not overly concerned with wiring cosmetics inside the helix, shame on me for being lazy that way! I have a photo of the finished area but I'm not sure how to attach one here.
If you are a Trainorders member, I can post the photo to the Model Railroading section. Would that work?
Sorry Jeff, not a member, but you explained it very well and thatgives me my answer so thank you a bunch!
Jeff - What do cover the helix with, when finished i.e. Scenery
Thanks, Dave UK
I notice you are soldering the inside and outside of the rails. I was told not to solder the inside of the rails to prevent the wheel flanges from hitting it. How do you prevent this from happening?
+Russell Scohy Hi, I solder the rail joiner connecting the rails, not the head of the rail, and I use just enough solder to accomplish the task of jointing the pieces solidly together. The solder does not need to be built up into a huge duck poop pile on top of the rail joiner, which is what you'd have to do to have any solder affect the flanges, as that pile of solder does nothing for the strength of the joint. You'd also be filing down the joint, as necessary, to clean up any excess. But if you just solder the rail joiner, there will be no such interfering excess to have to remove. Be sure to use flux as it makes the solder flow into the joint far more smoothly. Experiment and practice and you'll see how easy it is to achieve successful results.
do u think it would work on N scale?
Hi Jeff. Is there a part three where we see trains going thru the helix? Ray L.
The only constructive criticism I can can see is that you have your cordless drill clutch set to nine, with my cordless if I turn the clutch down to 1 or 2 it would tighten the screw to just about bite, Among other things I fit kitchens so the clutch is an integral part of the job.
Great job though and I will use this info :)
Hi, I almost never use the clutch, it's normally operating on drill setting. After a lot of years using these things that's what I'm comfortable with. I prefer going by feel and sound when driving screws, and seldom have stripping problems.
Jeff, Do you have any noise problems when you attach the track directly to the plywood?
My entire layout is straight on plywood and noise not a problem.
I have some flex track code 100 not sure how to bend it well
About all you can do is give it a try with some scrap pieces of track. That will easily answer the question.
Great from Nigel in Wales.....not England......we are a bit ....about that
who is wach in 2015
xD