Thank you this program was very helpful I have not laid track cents 1979 now i want to put my HO track up again after finding it , I watch every video you put out so much information that i for got.
At last, some one else who cuts track correctly. Thank you for putting this out there. It's a pet peeve of mine that the wrong way is demonstrated in the media.
This is an exceptionally useful video! Thanks for explaining this! I'm getting close to laying track on a new HO layout and the timing couldn't be more perfect.
Many moons ago I laid foam roadbed on my plywood prairie with clear latex caulk. Then the same caulk for the track, tacked all in place with thumb racks. After cured I pulled all the tacks. That was it, no nails. My downfall was I soldered 100% so my once straight rails were no longer straight, but on 300+ feet of track with one power feed I had great continuity! Live and learn
I always try to join the l+r rails at different positions. It stabilizes curves, way less kinks. I do not solder them together in order to allow temperature to shrink/expand the different materials minimizing tensions.
I would agree with generally everything this man says about model railroading, but would specifically agree with the gluing technique. I used too much glue and it took up space between the ties which limited my ballasting...and what I have learned thus far is that ballasting can be everything...and weathering your track, and design, and grades, and ugh!
Hi Peter. Another excellent video. Could I just ask what glue do you use for the roadbed? I assume you have to weigh it down? Also how do you manage to curve it? I previously used cork as we tend to in the UK but have bought some of the foam type to try.
There is a lengthy discussion, both in the comments and in the description above, explaining in detail why it is NOT a good idea to attempt to stagger the rail joints in this way.
Peter ,Great video. Enjoyed watching you hard at work. At the joint sections I used 9" straight set track pieces and left the track free floating So when I had to pull a section apart, I wouldn't be cutting or damaging valuable rail. I will send U mail thru ur business address on my next or newest model Railroading idea and plan to see what u think.
Excellent question. Thank-you for asking. Easements are important, both visually and mechanically. Super-elevation is optional and purely visual. As with everything in life, people will disagree with me, but I'd go so far as to say that model trains always look toy-like when entering of leaving a non-easemented curve. Furthermore, the sideways force on the couplers is greatly increased and may be a source of operational problems. This is most prevalent with long cars on tight curves, although even short cars on large curves will track better with easements than without them. Super-elevation on the other hand is a two-edged sword. Model trains will look better with super-elevation, but will run just fine without it. It is important to ensure that the transition areas at both ends be smooth and gradual, otherwise it can cause derailments. I once heard someone say that he never bothers with easements but always includes super-elevation. This is the worst approach possible, since the easement is where the SE transition goes. Without easements (or with easements that are too short), SE is going to create problems without doing anything to improve the appearance. I recently published a video in which I describe my methods for super-elevation (Missabe & Western series).
I’ll have to try that adhesive. I’ve recently been using Gorilla Glue clear contact adhesive. It’s a water based, so foam safe, clear “goop” that comes in a tube. I favor it over caulk that’s become so popular in the last few years, mostly due to cure time. The Gorilla Glue clear contact sets up mostly in about 30 mins, at least to where I can remove the T-pins. What’s the “cure” or setup, or “go off” (for the Brits) time for that adhesive your using? And as always, good content, and thanks for your effort to share this, it’s is appreciated.
David curtis I doubt it, it’s not water soluble after dry. Track could be taken up and scrapped clean. It would come off with a little effort and roll up like a rubber cement however.
I,m using Peco flexi track code 75 and its very good,you don,t get a kink on the curves,the rails bend nicely but when I cut the rail I have trouble putting the rail joiners on so I have to file the end then it goes on easy enought.
I've also started using PECO flex-track since I made this video. Their code-83 rail matches micro-engineering perfectly, and therefore is a good match for the fast-track turnouts that I use for most of my new work.
I noticed on your roadbed you left gaps? Is this on purpose? Do you like the black foam roadbed over cork? And do you leave gaps with the cork as well? Is the sub roadbed plywood? And what glue did you use to hold down the Black foam roadbed?
I don't deliberately leave gaps in the roadbed. There is some inaccuracy in the material and a close fit is not necessary. Any gaps will be filled with ballast. When I made this video, I was still using basic wood glue, which is not the best. I have since done some experimenting with different types of adhesive for this application. Full results will be revealed in a future video.
Excellent video, I found it very useful and informative thank-you. Q. I see on all your builds you use some sort of 2" or 50mm foam base, but the only product I can find remotely similar over here in the UK is called Celotex but it is foil backed and I don't think yours is ? What is your product called please and do yo know if it available in the UK ? Many Thanks.
I know there is an equivalent product available in the UK because one of my British layout-design customers sent me some photos that showed it on his layout. It's blue, not pink. Try doing an internet search for "closed cell expanded foam" and see what comes up. The "closed cell" bit is important. Open cell is white beadboard, which is not really suitable for this application.
I find it is also important that when installing a turnout, be sure that the rail joiners can slide all the way back off the 4 ends so that the turnout can be removed for maintenance as needed. The same is true when installing a turnout into a rail section. Set the joiners back off into place, set the turnout into the rails, and slide the joiners half forward into place to lock the turnout into position. AND do not lock the turnout down to the roadbed if you ever hope of removing it. I recommend you PIN it down. Bob S
With such a wide radius l o n g 180 deg [+-] curve why not solder 4-5 3' flex sections together while straight, with sliding rails all on the inside of the curve, lay it onto the foam/cork, then only cut it once where track then continues on a tangent...Wouldn't this guarantee a smooooth curve and less futzing ?...
Absolutely! Easements are ALWAYS worth it on our too-sharp model curves. When I do the track design, I always put easements in. Unfortunately not all designers use them and when I'm building to someone else's plan I have to follow what they have designed. Sometimes there is room to add them but sometimes not. Adding about a 1/4" offset from the curve to the straight is generally enough and the natural springiness of the flextrack will take care of the rest. Of course this only works if there is about a foot or so of straight track before the first turnout. The worst case scenario is when I get a customer who says he wants superelevation on his curves but doesn't make any allowance for the easements. Superelevation simply doesn't work without easements.
Hi Peter a peace of advice please ? if you put two pieces of flexi track together say (one yard ) 90 cm approx making two yards or 180 cm would this make a half circle and what would be the smallest curve you could get if that is possible? or would it take three sections? and again what is the smallest half circle ?best wishes ken great videos love them all ??
Most brands of flex track will bend into a far sharper curve than what your trains will negotiate. Two lengths joined into a half-circle will give you a curve of less than 2' radius, which is too sharp for many HO-scale trains (although in most cases it will be great for N-scale). The answer to your question is that you need to find out what the minimum radius is for your most restrictive car or locomotive, and then keep all your main line curves above that. Bear in mind also, that trains generally don't look good on sharp curves.
@@mpeterll Many many thanks that was a very quick reply I can only build a layout 6ft 6 inches by 3ft 6 pos 9 inches must be 00 gauge at my age it is hard to work on train cargo trucks and things to small I was working on a fig of 8 or two loops dc as I would like to make manual points on pull levers. I am selling all my model boats too much travelling and cold weather on my hands? Thank-you so much for your advise it was well received I want a simple layout logging camp one end and mining camp at the other end must be steam engines small type still looking at the type of trains I kind of like western type steam trains real oldie ? best wishes Ken love watching you build? your knowledge is worth its weight in gold? WOW?
It's basically the same for any scale. Bigger rail needs more heat, and with N-scale the plastic ties are closer to the rail joint so you need to get in and out with the iron quickly.
Thank you for sharing. Why do you mix Peco and Atlas? Wouldn’t it be faster and better to use the same brand then rail fasteners would fit properly? For example: why do you cut the tie on the turnouts? Peco turnouts are designed so the joiners fit underneath the ties at the ends.
When I am sub-contracting for another builder, I have to use what I'm given. There are other reasons though. Often it is necessary to combine more than one manufacturer's turnouts, either because of supply shortages or to get the geometry required. SOME lines of Peco turnouts have the feature you describe. The N-scale code 80 for example. The HO code 83 turnouts need the end ties removed.
It's not a necessity. I just do it to minimize problems with one rail having all the play and the other being solid. The tornado was some distance away, although we did have a power outage and some trees down that night - no biggie. Instead be concerned for those who were right in its path - for them it was a catastrophe.
Most likely, you have burrs on the ends of the rails. When you cut the rail, do you squeeze from the sides, or from top and bottom? You should be squeezing from the top and bottom. Also, use a high quality rail nipper such as the one make by Xuron - and don't use it for anything else except rail. The first time it touches a piece of hard wire, it's ruined. I hope this helps.
It actually makes it nicer if you slide one rail about 3 inches up, and the other about 1inch off the end, and do this to the next one too. Cut the 4 rail spikes, 2 each side of the join, and feed the rail up the spikes, into the joiner. This way, there is no 2joins in the same place, and the spikes and ties keep everything parallel, beside the 4 spikes , where the joiner is.
You can do that with some brands of flex-track, but not all. Some bands (M.E. for example) grip the rails too tightly. Atlas rails slide so easily that it would work well - assuming you want to spend twice as long on each piece for no gain over what can be achieved by soldering before bending.
You need to cut the ties at the joints. Cut the chairs off and let the rail joiner slide over the tie. That you you can maintain perfect sleeper spacing and your not going back over it to fill in the gaps.
Nice video. Good suggestion for the craft store glue, I've been using Liquid Nails, this looks like it would be easier to place the glue. Xuron offers rail nippers intended to use to cut from rail head to base, the opposite from the nipper you used in the video. I have them both, offers a bit more convenience in laying track. I no longer cut the rail short at the joints. I let the extended rail (on a curve) stay, and then under cut the ties and slide the rail in the next piece of flex track forward and make the joint that way. I do this because I was having trouble avoiding kinks in curves with flex track. By not having the rail joints across from each other, the intact rail helps to hold the radius and limit the amount of kink in the joint. The process is a bit more time intensive, but the improvement of the tracking of your trains is well worth the time invested. Because you gut the ties off the end of the flex track, you probably will want to add ties back into those areas. I file the molded in spike detail off the top of my discarded ties, and slip them back under the rail joiners. Be careful, you might need to file a bit of depth off the replacement ties so they don't lift the rails and make a hump. Also, I add the ties as I'm laying the track and before any parallel track is laid. It is much easier to slide the ties in now than after the rest of the track is in place. Before installing turnouts, file the bottoms to knock off any casting errors that may exist. I don't find a lot of irregularities, but the few I do and eliminate, really help the performance of the final track work. Finally, because the track joints are no longer directly across from each other, I no longer solder every rail joint: instead I do every other joint staggering which joint gets soldered. I also leave about a ten thousandths of a gap between the rails in a non soldered joint to allow for expansion and contraction during weather changes.
Staggering the rail joints like you suggest is a bad idea. You end up with a much larger gap in the ties than necessary. Soldering the curves while the track is still straight is a much better way to go about it. Most of the other things you talk about are addressed in the second installment.
@David curtis If you solder your tracks as described, how many ties do you remove before installing the track on the layout. I would think that the tighter the radius of the curve, the more ties that would need to be removed, and the attention to restoring or maintaining proper track gauge would be involved.
I have not read all the comments, so forgive me if I repeat anything. One thing I do that is different is on the curve I do not trim the rails to equal length. I, therefore have one rail joiner being supported by solid rail. The only place I cut rails are at turnouts cross overs,and end of stub end sidings.
@bobrulejr.4057 There is a lengthy discussion, both in the comments and in the description above, explaining in detail why it is NOT a good idea to attempt to stagger the rail joints in this way.
Newbie here. When laying your turnout, have you thought about using the tip of the soldering iron to go through the roadbed so the hole will be precisley where it needs to be? Then use the drill bit to finish up.
Nope, I disagree. Unless you are going to offset the joints by several inches, all it does is increase the number of missing ties. Therefore it makes the situation much worse. In the days of short lengths of jointed rail, some real railroad companies staggered their joints (by half a rail length - not just a few feet). Soldering the joints before bending the rail gives you the equivalent of continuous welded rail - which is a far better way to avoid derailments. You have to cut the rail on curves anyway - on a 180-degree turnback curve in HO-scale, the outer rail will need to be more than 2" longer than the inner rail (basic rule of pi).
I am no expert. But I used DAP Alex Plus transparent silicone caulk. It is just over $ 2 / tube. So far it has worked well for me for gluing Styrofoam to plywood, cork to Styrofoam and track to cork (all purpose)
That is a common choice for gluing down track. I have also used it in the past - nothing wrong with it but I'd been asked to try the crafters' pick on the previous layout and I had some left over. It results in a stronger joint than the DAP, so if you think you might want to peel the track up and realign it, stay with DAP.
The only reason I've ever heard for keeping the sliding rail on the inside of curves is that it causes the ties to bunch up closer together, whereas having the sliding rail on the outside results in ties further apart. On a model, the rail is not subjected to anything like the same forces that the prototype rail is, model track will function perfectly well with ties twice as far apart as the prototype. Accurate tie spacing on a model is purely cosmetic. Long before a curve is sharp enough for the difference to be measurable (never mind noticeable), the sharpness of the curve will look absurd in most situations. Only on industrial spurs can such a sharp curve look reasonable, and the prototype spaces ties further apart on industrial spurs anyway. So, in conclusion, it really makes no difference whether the sliding rail is on the inside or outside of a curve.
@David curtis I'm a professional layout builder. We never solder track together, we solder power feed cables to every piece of track. It is the only right way to do it. Relying on the track can cause problems. Nickel silver track can cause a higher resistance and give trouble on DCC.
Soldering ALL the joints is a bad thing because you'll lose the ability for the rail to expand and contract, but it's a good idea to minimize the number of floating joints on curves. Soldering the track into 6' sections also reduces the number of feeders necessary.
He didn explain what side of the rail goes in or out, the bottom ties have spaces or slots to make up for the curve. The side with the cut outs will go out side. I also stagger my curves to avoid pinching.
No, don't ever try to stagger the joints. Unless you can stagger them by at-least 4" and then replace the ties without breaking any of the spikes, all you'll do is increase the distance without structural ties. Instead, solder the rail joiners while the track is still straight, and then bend it to shape for a perfect flowing curve with no kinks or "pinching".
@@mpeterll i staggered all my joints, my curves are perfect and reliable. I only remove the plastic bits that hold the rail to the ties where the joiners will be placed then slide the extended rail into the next section of track, i am using code 100 atlas. To each his own, thats just how i like to do it.
This is really helpful! I am using flex track for the first time as I return to the hobby after 50 years away...and this really helps. Wish me luck...
Thank you this program was very helpful I have not laid track cents 1979 now i want to put my HO track up again after finding it , I watch every video you put out so much information that i for got.
Excellent video. Excellent detailed narration. Thank you for that.
At last, some one else who cuts track correctly. Thank you for putting this out there. It's a pet peeve of mine that the wrong way is demonstrated in the media.
always good to watch others do track projects, get some helpful insights on making track laying easier. Thanks Peter
I would like to know what you charge to design a railroad?
@@rickrobinson6208 go to peters about section here on you tube, and email him
This is an exceptionally useful video! Thanks for explaining this! I'm getting close to laying track on a new HO layout and the timing couldn't be more perfect.
Just ordered my Hakko station, thanks for the tip, I'm constantly going through cheap irons.
Many moons ago I laid foam roadbed on my plywood prairie with clear latex caulk. Then the same caulk for the track, tacked all in place with thumb racks. After cured I pulled all the tacks. That was it, no nails. My downfall was I soldered 100% so my once straight rails were no longer straight, but on 300+ feet of track with one power feed I had great continuity! Live and learn
I'd suggest leaving expansion gaps about every 6'.
Thank you. I learn a lot !
2:44 "and then just let the end fly off into outer space." This made me actually lol, I don't know why haha.
Very good installation tips and perfect timing! Thank you for sharing!
I always try to join the l+r rails at different positions. It stabilizes curves, way less kinks. I do not solder them together in order to allow temperature to shrink/expand the different materials minimizing tensions.
Sure makes the process way easier with foam base and makes me want to lay some track now ha, Thanks Peter cheers ken uk
Nice tips, thanks!
I would agree with generally everything this man says about model railroading, but would specifically agree with the gluing technique. I used too much glue and it took up space between the ties which limited my ballasting...and what I have learned thus far is that ballasting can be everything...and weathering your track, and design, and grades, and ugh!
Hi Peter. Another excellent video. Could I just ask what glue do you use for the roadbed? I assume you have to weigh it down? Also how do you manage to curve it? I previously used cork as we tend to in the UK but have bought some of the foam type to try.
Nice video, I learned some more tricks.
There is a lengthy discussion, both in the comments and in the description above, explaining in detail why it is NOT a good idea to attempt to stagger the rail joints in this way.
As always very interesting and informative...thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
Nice video. What type of roadbed did you use? Also did you install any of the switches that you built and offer for sale?
Peter ,Great video. Enjoyed watching you hard at work.
At the joint sections I used 9" straight set track pieces and left the track free floating So when I had to pull a section apart, I wouldn't be cutting or damaging valuable rail.
I will send U mail thru ur business address on my next or newest model Railroading idea and plan to see what u think.
Thank you for the proper way of cutting track, i was cutting it wrong
Great video, your best one , show how to lay track, what type turnout are you using
Fantastic! Always enjoy your tutorials. What are your thoughts on easements and super elevating the corners on the mainline?
Excellent question. Thank-you for asking.
Easements are important, both visually and mechanically. Super-elevation is optional and purely visual.
As with everything in life, people will disagree with me, but I'd go so far as to say that model trains always look toy-like when entering of leaving a non-easemented curve. Furthermore, the sideways force on the couplers is greatly increased and may be a source of operational problems. This is most prevalent with long cars on tight curves, although even short cars on large curves will track better with easements than without them.
Super-elevation on the other hand is a two-edged sword. Model trains will look better with super-elevation, but will run just fine without it. It is important to ensure that the transition areas at both ends be smooth and gradual, otherwise it can cause derailments.
I once heard someone say that he never bothers with easements but always includes super-elevation. This is the worst approach possible, since the easement is where the SE transition goes. Without easements (or with easements that are too short), SE is going to create problems without doing anything to improve the appearance.
I recently published a video in which I describe my methods for super-elevation (Missabe & Western series).
I’ll have to try that adhesive. I’ve recently been using Gorilla Glue clear contact adhesive. It’s a water based, so foam safe, clear “goop” that comes in a tube. I favor it over caulk that’s become so popular in the last few years, mostly due to cure time. The Gorilla Glue clear contact sets up mostly in about 30 mins, at least to where I can remove the T-pins.
What’s the “cure” or setup, or “go off” (for the Brits) time for that adhesive your using? And as always, good content, and thanks for your effort to share this, it’s is appreciated.
David curtis I doubt it, it’s not water soluble after dry. Track could be taken up and scrapped clean. It would come off with a little effort and roll up like a rubber cement however.
I,m using Peco flexi track code 75 and its very good,you don,t get a kink on the curves,the rails bend nicely but when I cut the rail I have trouble putting the rail joiners on so I have to file the end then it goes on easy enought.
I've also started using PECO flex-track since I made this video. Their code-83 rail matches micro-engineering perfectly, and therefore is a good match for the fast-track turnouts that I use for most of my new work.
Peter, helpful video thanks, what is the manufacturer of the rail cutter you used, with flat one side?
I don't know. I've bought so many over the years I've lost track.
I noticed on your roadbed you left gaps? Is this on purpose? Do you like the black foam roadbed over cork? And do you leave gaps with the cork as well? Is the sub roadbed plywood? And what glue did you use to hold down the Black foam roadbed?
I don't deliberately leave gaps in the roadbed. There is some inaccuracy in the material and a close fit is not necessary. Any gaps will be filled with ballast. When I made this video, I was still using basic wood glue, which is not the best. I have since done some experimenting with different types of adhesive for this application. Full results will be revealed in a future video.
Excellent video, I found it very useful and informative thank-you.
Q. I see on all your builds you use some sort of 2" or 50mm foam base, but the only product I can find remotely similar over here in the UK is called Celotex but it is foil backed and I don't think yours is ? What is your product called please and do yo know if it available in the UK ? Many Thanks.
I know there is an equivalent product available in the UK because one of my British layout-design customers sent me some photos that showed it on his layout. It's blue, not pink. Try doing an internet search for "closed cell expanded foam" and see what comes up. The "closed cell" bit is important. Open cell is white beadboard, which is not really suitable for this application.
You can get various thicknesses from this company in the UK, David. www.panelsystems.co.uk/product/craftfoam-Blue
@@mpeterll closed cell OK got it thanks
@@bobfuller OK great I will take a look, thanks
Very intuitive, thank you very much.
Great job .. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
I find it is also important that when installing a turnout, be sure that the rail joiners can slide all the way back off the 4 ends so that the turnout can be removed for maintenance as needed. The same is true when installing a turnout into a rail section. Set the joiners back off into place, set the turnout into the rails, and slide the joiners half forward into place to lock the turnout into position. AND do not lock the turnout down to the roadbed if you ever hope of removing it. I recommend you PIN it down.
Bob S
With such a wide radius l o n g 180 deg [+-] curve why not solder 4-5 3' flex sections together while straight, with sliding rails all on the inside of the curve, lay it onto the foam/cork, then only cut it once where track then continues on a tangent...Wouldn't this guarantee a smooooth curve and less futzing ?...
Do you ever put easements in, or not find it worth the effort?
Absolutely! Easements are ALWAYS worth it on our too-sharp model curves.
When I do the track design, I always put easements in. Unfortunately not all designers use them and when I'm building to someone else's plan I have to follow what they have designed. Sometimes there is room to add them but sometimes not. Adding about a 1/4" offset from the curve to the straight is generally enough and the natural springiness of the flextrack will take care of the rest. Of course this only works if there is about a foot or so of straight track before the first turnout.
The worst case scenario is when I get a customer who says he wants superelevation on his curves but doesn't make any allowance for the easements. Superelevation simply doesn't work without easements.
great video.. just wondering if those as electro frog pts? if so did you drill the holes for the wires.
These are the insulfrog turnouts. They have small plastic inserts. No additional wiring necessary.
Hi Peter a peace of advice please ? if you put two pieces of flexi track together say (one yard ) 90 cm approx making two yards or 180 cm would this make a half circle and what would be the smallest curve you could get if that is possible? or would it take three sections? and again what is the smallest half circle ?best wishes ken great videos love them all ??
Most brands of flex track will bend into a far sharper curve than what your trains will negotiate. Two lengths joined into a half-circle will give you a curve of less than 2' radius, which is too sharp for many HO-scale trains (although in most cases it will be great for N-scale). The answer to your question is that you need to find out what the minimum radius is for your most restrictive car or locomotive, and then keep all your main line curves above that. Bear in mind also, that trains generally don't look good on sharp curves.
@@mpeterll Many many thanks that was a very quick reply I can only build a layout 6ft 6 inches by 3ft 6 pos 9 inches must be 00 gauge at my age it is hard to work on train cargo trucks and things to small I was working on a fig of 8 or two loops dc as I would like to make manual points on pull levers. I am selling all my model boats too much travelling and cold weather on my hands? Thank-you so much for your advise it was well received I want a simple layout logging camp one end and mining camp at the other end must be steam engines small type still looking at the type of trains I kind of like western type steam trains real oldie ? best wishes Ken love watching you build? your knowledge is worth its weight in gold? WOW?
Excellent clinic, Peter! Is this essentially the same procedure for N scale (my scale)?
It's basically the same for any scale. Bigger rail needs more heat, and with N-scale the plastic ties are closer to the rail joint so you need to get in and out with the iron quickly.
Nice Job
Greet from Germany
what size solder wire do you use
Ultra-fine
Nice Video. Great job
Thank you for sharing.
Why do you mix Peco and Atlas? Wouldn’t it be faster and better to use the same brand then rail fasteners would fit properly? For example: why do you cut the tie on the turnouts? Peco turnouts are designed so the joiners fit underneath the ties at the ends.
When I am sub-contracting for another builder, I have to use what I'm given.
There are other reasons though. Often it is necessary to combine more than one manufacturer's turnouts, either because of supply shortages or to get the geometry required. SOME lines of Peco turnouts have the feature you describe. The N-scale code 80 for example. The HO code 83 turnouts need the end ties removed.
great tips, thank you
I didn't know you should connect the sliding rail to the rigid. You survived the Tennessee tornado or not close?
It's not a necessity. I just do it to minimize problems with one rail having all the play and the other being solid.
The tornado was some distance away, although we did have a power outage and some trees down that night - no biggie. Instead be concerned for those who were right in its path - for them it was a catastrophe.
I have the hardest time fitting rail joiners, any tips?
Most likely, you have burrs on the ends of the rails. When you cut the rail, do you squeeze from the sides, or from top and bottom? You should be squeezing from the top and bottom. Also, use a high quality rail nipper such as the one make by Xuron - and don't use it for anything else except rail. The first time it touches a piece of hard wire, it's ruined.
I hope this helps.
Well done! Thanks.
Hello Peter, great tutorial! And you’re right, you do deserve the best of tools. Lol. See ya next time.
Nice work but I am not a fan of glueing track down as I sometimes change my mind on arrangement
Ahh a lesson.. thank you!
Well done mate
It actually makes it nicer if you slide one rail about 3 inches up, and the other about 1inch off the end, and do this to the next one too.
Cut the 4 rail spikes, 2 each side of the join, and feed the rail up the spikes, into the joiner.
This way, there is no 2joins in the same place, and the spikes and ties keep everything parallel, beside the 4 spikes , where the joiner is.
You can do that with some brands of flex-track, but not all. Some bands (M.E. for example) grip the rails too tightly. Atlas rails slide so easily that it would work well - assuming you want to spend twice as long on each piece for no gain over what can be achieved by soldering before bending.
You need to cut the ties at the joints. Cut the chairs off and let the rail joiner slide over the tie. That you you can maintain perfect sleeper spacing and your not going back over it to fill in the gaps.
Thank you
Aloominum?
nice video
would a 3/8" hole work for N scale turnouts?
I believe the issue is with the tortoise machine under the table which is the same size for all scales so I would go with 1/2:".
Nice video. Good suggestion for the craft store glue, I've been using Liquid Nails, this looks like it would be easier to place the glue. Xuron offers rail nippers intended to use to cut from rail head to base, the opposite from the nipper you used in the video. I have them both, offers a bit more convenience in laying track. I no longer cut the rail short at the joints. I let the extended rail (on a curve) stay, and then under cut the ties and slide the rail in the next piece of flex track forward and make the joint that way. I do this because I was having trouble avoiding kinks in curves with flex track. By not having the rail joints across from each other, the intact rail helps to hold the radius and limit the amount of kink in the joint. The process is a bit more time intensive, but the improvement of the tracking of your trains is well worth the time invested. Because you gut the ties off the end of the flex track, you probably will want to add ties back into those areas. I file the molded in spike detail off the top of my discarded ties, and slip them back under the rail joiners. Be careful, you might need to file a bit of depth off the replacement ties so they don't lift the rails and make a hump. Also, I add the ties as I'm laying the track and before any parallel track is laid. It is much easier to slide the ties in now than after the rest of the track is in place. Before installing turnouts, file the bottoms to knock off any casting errors that may exist. I don't find a lot of irregularities, but the few I do and eliminate, really help the performance of the final track work. Finally, because the track joints are no longer directly across from each other, I no longer solder every rail joint: instead I do every other joint staggering which joint gets soldered. I also leave about a ten thousandths of a gap between the rails in a non soldered joint to allow for expansion and contraction during weather changes.
Staggering the rail joints like you suggest is a bad idea. You end up with a much larger gap in the ties than necessary. Soldering the curves while the track is still straight is a much better way to go about it.
Most of the other things you talk about are addressed in the second installment.
@David curtis If you solder your tracks as described, how many ties do you remove before installing the track on the layout. I would think that the tighter the radius of the curve, the more ties that would need to be removed, and the attention to restoring or maintaining proper track gauge would be involved.
I have not read all the comments, so forgive me if I repeat anything. One thing I do that is different is on the curve I do not trim the rails to equal length. I, therefore have one rail joiner being supported by solid rail. The only place I cut rails are at turnouts cross overs,and end of stub end sidings.
@bobrulejr.4057 There is a lengthy discussion, both in the comments and in the description above, explaining in detail why it is NOT a good idea to attempt to stagger the rail joints in this way.
You should stagger the joints that way to try to run better and less derailments
Please see the description above.
Newbie here. When laying your turnout, have you thought about using the tip of the soldering iron to go through the roadbed so the hole will be precisley where it needs to be? Then use the drill bit to finish up.
what awful gaps between sleepers at the joints
Please see the next installment in this series.
@@mpeterll no need should have seen to it first time round and why on earth solder joins rai;ls cant expand or contract in joiners and so will buckle
@@rob235ioa1 Please feel free to publish your own series of video tutorials in which you do everything "correctly".
It is better to offset the rail joints I do not cut the rail it’s better offset on curves To prevent derailments
Nope, I disagree. Unless you are going to offset the joints by several inches, all it does is increase the number of missing ties. Therefore it makes the situation much worse. In the days of short lengths of jointed rail, some real railroad companies staggered their joints (by half a rail length - not just a few feet). Soldering the joints before bending the rail gives you the equivalent of continuous welded rail - which is a far better way to avoid derailments. You have to cut the rail on curves anyway - on a 180-degree turnback curve in HO-scale, the outer rail will need to be more than 2" longer than the inner rail (basic rule of pi).
There is a method of staggering the joints while keeping the ties, I did a video awhile back
I am no expert. But I used DAP Alex Plus transparent silicone caulk. It is just over $ 2 / tube. So far it has worked well for me
for gluing Styrofoam to plywood, cork to Styrofoam and track to cork (all purpose)
That is a common choice for gluing down track. I have also used it in the past - nothing wrong with it but I'd been asked to try the crafters' pick on the previous layout and I had some left over. It results in a stronger joint than the DAP, so if you think you might want to peel the track up and realign it, stay with DAP.
Always told keep moving rail on inside
The only reason I've ever heard for keeping the sliding rail on the inside of curves is that it causes the ties to bunch up closer together, whereas having the sliding rail on the outside results in ties further apart. On a model, the rail is not subjected to anything like the same forces that the prototype rail is, model track will function perfectly well with ties twice as far apart as the prototype. Accurate tie spacing on a model is purely cosmetic. Long before a curve is sharp enough for the difference to be measurable (never mind noticeable), the sharpness of the curve will look absurd in most situations. Only on industrial spurs can such a sharp curve look reasonable, and the prototype spaces ties further apart on industrial spurs anyway.
So, in conclusion, it really makes no difference whether the sliding rail is on the inside or outside of a curve.
Never solder track! Curves or straights! No need.
@David curtis I'm a professional layout builder. We never solder track together, we solder power feed cables to every piece of track. It is the only right way to do it. Relying on the track can cause problems. Nickel silver track can cause a higher resistance and give trouble on DCC.
worst thing you can do is to solder joints
Soldering ALL the joints is a bad thing because you'll lose the ability for the rail to expand and contract, but it's a good idea to minimize the number of floating joints on curves. Soldering the track into 6' sections also reduces the number of feeders necessary.
absolutely wrong way to cut track and track cutters are useless
Absolutely the correct way to cut rail. My guess is that you have the wrong rail cutters.
He didn explain what side of the rail goes in or out, the bottom ties have spaces or slots to make up for the curve. The side with the cut outs will go out side. I also stagger my curves to avoid pinching.
No, don't ever try to stagger the joints. Unless you can stagger them by at-least 4" and then replace the ties without breaking any of the spikes, all you'll do is increase the distance without structural ties. Instead, solder the rail joiners while the track is still straight, and then bend it to shape for a perfect flowing curve with no kinks or "pinching".
@@mpeterll i staggered all my joints, my curves are perfect and reliable. I only remove the plastic bits that hold the rail to the ties where the joiners will be placed then slide the extended rail into the next section of track, i am using code 100 atlas. To each his own, thats just how i like to do it.