you need to leave expansion joints every few lengths, I gap the rails with a business card. I have soldered joints on Peco flex track that has been down for over 10 years with no issues.
@@64BJH I agree. Soldered joints save a lot of problems. A small gab every 6 feet is enough. The problem with some of these comments you never get enough information to understand the comment. Some layouts are exposed to freezing or near freezing tempatrures and 110 degrees in the summer.
So i Am using peco c 55 left hand curve turnouts not sure if you know what they look like or not, I cant get the frog end to line up correct so I am wondering.... am I suppose to cut the flex track railing itself to make it line with the actual turnout and slide into the grove on the turnout? Appreciate any feedback.
I do have some Peco code 55 turnouts on my layout. It really does not matter though. It is the same for both straight turnouts and curved turnouts. Once you know where the turnout is going be places, pin it down temporarily. This is the way I would do it. Just trim the flex evenly first then use your rail joiners to hook up the turnout.(see video at 10:50) You might want to solder this particular connection, so it wont move when you install, but not required. Place the turnout where you want it to be and pin it temporarily. Now curve the flex track where you want it to go and line it up directly over your existing track where you want it to connect. Do a rough trim(make it slightly longer.) once you cut it, remove about 2 ties so you have room for the joiners to slide on. re lay it to see the connection point and make it with a pencil. Now using a straight edge(like in the video) trim it up nice and square. .file off the burs. join and glue track down, Your turnout is already connected and it is in the right place. It is much more difficult to try and connect a turnout, where your track is already glued in place. it is especially more difficult if it is curved track. I hope this helps.
I made it myself. Just got a cheap, small flat head screwdriver, and used a cutting wheel with a dremel. The slotted screw driver is called a joiner tool.
FYI: Peco code 55 has arrow heads on the bottom of the flex track to indicate the preferred side to be on the inside of a curve when bending.
That slotted screwdriver is a brilliant idea, gonna make one immediately, must have some old screwdrivers laying around somewhere.
nice video. appreciated the subtitles and the music. I am about to put flex around some broad curves and this will help
Nice, when I did mine, I staggered the rail joints to make sure there will be no buckling at the railheads, but nice job....
Atlas code 80 flextracks N scale .
I used flextracks Atlas and nails . Peco not have holes for nails . I used Atlas flextracks code 80 N scale .
Never solder the track together, even room temperature over time can split the track in half
you need to leave expansion joints every few lengths, I gap the rails with a business card. I have soldered joints on Peco flex track that has been down for over 10 years with no issues.
@@64BJH I agree. Soldered joints save a lot of problems. A small gab every 6 feet is enough. The problem with some of these comments you never get enough information to understand the comment. Some layouts are exposed to freezing or near freezing tempatrures and 110 degrees in the summer.
a small gap every 6 feet is enough
Ahhh...the music...how the music gets in my way...LOL.
Meeshka Bear ‘80s Porno music always makes me think of my first ex-wife... just kidding, but I’m glad for the mute button!
@@samiam619 😂
So i Am using peco c 55 left hand curve turnouts not sure if you know what they look like or not, I cant get the frog end to line up correct so I am wondering.... am I suppose to cut the flex track railing itself to make it line with the actual turnout and slide into the grove on the turnout? Appreciate any feedback.
I do have some Peco code 55 turnouts on my layout. It really does not matter though. It is the same for both straight turnouts and curved turnouts. Once you know where the turnout is going be places, pin it down temporarily. This is the way I would do it. Just trim the flex evenly first then use your rail joiners to hook up the turnout.(see video at 10:50) You might want to solder this particular connection, so it wont move when you install, but not required. Place the turnout where you want it to be and pin it temporarily. Now curve the flex track where you want it to go and line it up directly over your existing track where you want it to connect. Do a rough trim(make it slightly longer.) once you cut it, remove about 2 ties so you have room for the joiners to slide on. re lay it to see the connection point and make it with a pencil. Now using a straight edge(like in the video) trim it up nice and square. .file off the burs. join and glue track down, Your turnout is already connected and it is in the right place. It is much more difficult to try and connect a turnout, where your track is already glued in place. it is especially more difficult if it is curved track. I hope this helps.
Hi, where did you get the screwdriver (slotted) from thanks
I made it myself. Just got a cheap, small flat head screwdriver, and used a cutting wheel with a dremel. The slotted screw driver is called a joiner tool.
@@choochooguy thanks. Will have ago at making one
🙄 Spreading the liquid nail was my favorite part.
😂😂😂
Better hope you never need to get into that 2 gang wall switch. Otherwise, good video and I learned something. Thanx you. Now go fix that wall switch.
I see a lot of sincere detail work but did not see easements non the curves. Is it the camera angel?
No easements
WHAT IS THE OBSESSION WITH ANNOYING MUSIC?
mute the volume if you don't like it my friend.