Sometimes if the locos stagger theres two things to look at. Pickups for power to the loco, also check the phasing of the wheels is correct. If the phasing is out just a little bit the movement can be quite jerky
Excellent Mod! Will certainly be having a look at some of my older Poole chassis, same chassis is used in some of the small steam shunters as well. regarding loco gens I've always thought of it this way in general. 1st gen Poole has a solid coupling with a loop on the back, brass gear, 3 pole, 2nd gen Poole, sprung coupling, brass gear, 3 pole, 3rd Gen Poole sprung coupling, nylon gear, 5 pole (some nylon geared may have started with 3 pole but transitioned to 5 pole), 1st gen China spring coupling, 5 pole, blackened wheels, 2nd gen China Outside frame version (on the 08), and the new one which is dcc compatible also some with sound fitted. In the old days many modellers used to attach a match truck permanently to the shunter with extra pickups to cure the point issue. But as time went on they went to Electrofrog points to cure the issue. All the best Tony
Cheers Tony 👍, there is alot of different gens that is for sure 👍, im going to try and remember the order of gens for future videos, it might be even better to keep the central axle rigid but make the front and rear axles able to move instead. From what ive seen so far the newer (2nd gen china) does this. What i did in this video worked a treat for me on actually three of the 1st gen class 08's i have... All the best chap👍
This might not work for everyone but ive had good results, you might even get better results modding the forward and rear axles to float and keeping the central axle rigid 👍
nice job but once again showing the manufacturers could try harder and people should be spending their money competitively ie. paying for your services or not bothering with the main N gauge uk sellers. i run abit of kato and they always bring me joy to see them rolling over points slowly, so i know the issue isn't track driven but more the way the development of locos and track don't come together.
@@Galacticmaster recently ive delved into some older locos made by Atlas, US focused but they run amazing like the katos do aswell. In this day and age really anything can be made to run well, the older GF did well and still does hold its own in some aspects 👍
I will be sure to let you know once i service mine 👍, im pretty sure the centre axle is fixed and front and rear axles move... Will confirm that soon enough👍
Why didn’t you just put a stay alive in like everyone else you can make it any size they work great 5 minutes job done, by making the axle raise could enable it to jump track so you end up with the back and front axle on the opposite side of the rail from the middle, don’t use cotton buds on the commutator get your self a fibreglass pen and yes those bits don’t do the motor any good you had nothing holding it you should have just pulled it off.
😊sorry if I offend the author or anyone else but, as a loco builder of many years' experience, this guy sound far too unsure and experimental for my peace of mind. Do not copy him! Again, sorry!
Thats quite alright, your free to your own opinion 👍, i did this on one class 08 then because it worked so well i did my others, by all means this is done solely at everyones own risk but it worked for me 👍, definitely experimental but this Way Worked so thought id share, alternatively you could add a decoder and stay alive and keep the loco somewhat stock 👍
@RoyFearn rather than fire bullets, how would you suggest doing this? Edit: oh okay I’ve seen it now. My concerns are many, but the biggest one being changing the “bearing” seat depth will alter the gear mesh and at this scale 0.5mm is huge - equivalent to between 75mm or 3” full scale. That’s absolutely huge! Other concerns include the “bearing” finish that results and the consequent reduction in running life. I’m also surprised that the axles run in square cutouts in the frame plates, which is terrible engineering. But if it works, it works. Also, although shutters don’t often pull loads up inclines, but reducing axle load on the centre axle reduces traction which could be problematic in some situations. My solution _would absolutely_ be to fix the track, using electro frog points and ultimately going to DCC. But I really appreciate the author’s tips on dismantling and reassembling the Class 08. They’re really helpful.
Very helpful, I have just remotored one of my 08's to coreless, it still staggers along. Think the job was above my skill level.
Sometimes if the locos stagger theres two things to look at. Pickups for power to the loco, also check the phasing of the wheels is correct. If the phasing is out just a little bit the movement can be quite jerky
@@ThisWayWorksTWW the area where power pick looks to be the source of my trouble.
Excellent Mod! Will certainly be having a look at some of my older Poole chassis, same chassis is used in some of the small steam shunters as well. regarding loco gens I've always thought of it this way in general. 1st gen Poole has a solid coupling with a loop on the back, brass gear, 3 pole, 2nd gen Poole, sprung coupling, brass gear, 3 pole, 3rd Gen Poole sprung coupling, nylon gear, 5 pole (some nylon geared may have started with 3 pole but transitioned to 5 pole), 1st gen China spring coupling, 5 pole, blackened wheels, 2nd gen China Outside frame version (on the 08), and the new one which is dcc compatible also some with sound fitted. In the old days many modellers used to attach a match truck permanently to the shunter with extra pickups to cure the point issue. But as time went on they went to Electrofrog points to cure the issue. All the best Tony
Cheers Tony 👍, there is alot of different gens that is for sure 👍, im going to try and remember the order of gens for future videos, it might be even better to keep the central axle rigid but make the front and rear axles able to move instead. From what ive seen so far the newer (2nd gen china) does this. What i did in this video worked a treat for me on actually three of the 1st gen class 08's i have... All the best chap👍
Just got a series 1 the other day (08 113). Will have to check what you described here. Thanks.
This might not work for everyone but ive had good results, you might even get better results modding the forward and rear axles to float and keeping the central axle rigid 👍
nice job but once again showing the manufacturers could try harder and people should be spending their money competitively ie. paying for your services or not bothering with the main N gauge uk sellers. i run abit of kato and they always bring me joy to see them rolling over points slowly, so i know the issue isn't track driven but more the way the development of locos and track don't come together.
@@Galacticmaster recently ive delved into some older locos made by Atlas, US focused but they run amazing like the katos do aswell. In this day and age really anything can be made to run well, the older GF did well and still does hold its own in some aspects 👍
Please keep us updated if you do the mod on a china chassis so we know if it works 😁
I will be sure to let you know once i service mine 👍, im pretty sure the centre axle is fixed and front and rear axles move... Will confirm that soon enough👍
Why didn’t you just put a stay alive in like everyone else you can make it any size they work great 5 minutes job done, by making the axle raise could enable it to jump track so you end up with the back and front axle on the opposite side of the rail from the middle, don’t use cotton buds on the commutator get your self a fibreglass pen and yes those bits don’t do the motor any good you had nothing holding it you should have just pulled it off.
The loco is remaining on DC this time so i cant install a stay alive unfortunately 👍
Ｐｒⓞм𝕠𝕤𝐌 🤤
😊sorry if I offend the author or anyone else but, as a loco builder of many years' experience, this guy sound far too unsure and experimental for my peace of mind. Do not copy him! Again, sorry!
Thats quite alright, your free to your own opinion 👍, i did this on one class 08 then because it worked so well i did my others, by all means this is done solely at everyones own risk but it worked for me 👍, definitely experimental but this Way Worked so thought id share, alternatively you could add a decoder and stay alive and keep the loco somewhat stock 👍
@RoyFearn rather than fire bullets, how would you suggest doing this?
Edit: oh okay I’ve seen it now. My concerns are many, but the biggest one being changing the “bearing” seat depth will alter the gear mesh and at this scale 0.5mm is huge - equivalent to between 75mm or 3” full scale. That’s absolutely huge! Other concerns include the “bearing” finish that results and the consequent reduction in running life. I’m also surprised that the axles run in square cutouts in the frame plates, which is terrible engineering. But if it works, it works. Also, although shutters don’t often pull loads up inclines, but reducing axle load on the centre axle reduces traction which could be problematic in some situations.
My solution _would absolutely_ be to fix the track, using electro frog points and ultimately going to DCC.
But I really appreciate the author’s tips on dismantling and reassembling the Class 08. They’re really helpful.