Hi Chris, ah this video is one of the early ones i did. Ive been doing alot away from UA-cam, lots of model railway bits and bobs, i havent really got a good ammount to put in one video, ive been doing a small TT layout that will probably be the next video up here.. im pretty much going around a room and through a wardrobe with N gauge and its taking a while to put together so i will be flooding the channel soon enough with content and fixing and running locos again 👍
You mentioned that you had fitted new gears, could you explain where you obtained the gears. I want to get into n gauge and the problems with splitting gears worries me. But if I can change the gears it will encourage me to take the dive into n gauge, cheers Dale.
@@ThisWayWorksTWW Thank you for the prompt reply. I have two class 37s unused in their boxes must be 13 years old I will try them on a test track. Great videos by the way!
What kind of snags are you having? I just put the decoder within the battery box, two wires to the chassis(motor) isolate bogies from chassis, wire decoder to bogies for the track pick up👍
Nice video and a fair comparison. I found that the Farish 5-pole motors get really hot and bothered fairly quickly - I tried a coreless motor in a Farish 47 and it will now run all day without any issues. It ran for 2 four-hour sessions a couple of Saturdays ago - I don't think the original motor would have survived. The Class 20 weighs in at 92g, the 25 will be about 86g (with the original Farish motor). I'm impressed by your gears - you should have worked for Farish!
Ha my gears havent cracked yet surprisingly! I did weigh mine and at the time of filming the Class 25 came in at 76g and the class 20 came in heavier at 88g so similar weights to yours actually 👍 ive never done a continuous 4 hr stint but that is really interesting to hear about your experience with using coreless motors, i think il have to revisit this video in the future and try and do a better conparison, maybe il try a slightly larger coreless motor so the benefits of going coreless for me are more clear cut 👍
Unfortunately i have looked alot into this not found a suitable motor to replace the limas ringfield motors as of yet, i will keep looking though, if i do find something i will be sure to upload a video here, lets hope a coreless type motor appears on the market soon.
1. @5:09 Holy HSTs, Batman! How many have you got??!?? 2. I'm thinking of putting a video together on how to measure a loco's performance electrically, but I only have (sniff) 4 HSTs. I wonder if you would be interested in measuring some of yours - good and bad runners - to get some idea of what a "good" loco should read?
Tbh i dont have a dodgey HST atm!! Electronically anyways that is... Generally speaking they would all read differently and it would depend on where you measured really... Are you checking for amps? Resistance? Insulation? Generally speaking if you can go fast and slow then the loco works lol... The real way to see how good a loco is is probably to crawl them however the poole type chassis's alone vary greatly, in short if you have a hot to the touch loco then somethings wrong... I have absolutely no idea how many HST's i have, but i do know they all run like new now 😁
@@ThisWayWorksTWW One reads 106 ohms track-to-track, and won't go; another reads 85 ohms and sets off with about 8v across it, leaving only 4V for speed range; the third reads 45 ohms and sets off at 5.5v, and obviously runs the faster. I'm assuming that a well-fettled loco needs even less to pull off, leaving more for speed range, but whether that's 5.4v or 2.4v is something I can't find anywhere.
@@kitmoore9969 another quick test ive done in the past is use a one cell lipo, in my case it wasnt fully charged reading at 3v.. that was my minimum test voltage if the loco moved and crawled it was good. If it didnt move i took it apart and serviced it. Now i take them all apart and clean them up. Your resistance test will be different with different locos as they will be wound differently. It really is a tricky thing to test. Generally if my locos dont crawl, make a nasty noise, heat up il strip them down, hopefully this helps? Doing resistance check i dont think would be a consistent way of checking locos against each other as theres just to many variables to potentially mislead you 👍
Hi again is this the same 20 that you did the gear change on in your last video for the 20? I followed your instructions and got mine up and running great many thanks for info on that. Now I have another question, am I right in assuming that you have converted this loco to DCC ? As I like to do this to mine, but can’t find any vids to show how it is done
I have two that look very similar, the gear changed one is the sister Class 20 of the one in this video, i just mount the decoders between bogies on the underside of the loco, i can show you how i wired the decoder in a future video, its not pretty but it works 👍
Hi Sam, yes i suspect you are correct 👍, i havent got any scales to hand atm but i will weigh them and let you know, might even do another comparison video in the future, maybe a more scientific version 👍
Very interesting Rich? What are you up to now?
Hi Chris, ah this video is one of the early ones i did. Ive been doing alot away from UA-cam, lots of model railway bits and bobs, i havent really got a good ammount to put in one video, ive been doing a small TT layout that will probably be the next video up here.. im pretty much going around a room and through a wardrobe with N gauge and its taking a while to put together so i will be flooding the channel soon enough with content and fixing and running locos again 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW excellent
@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 I hope all is well your end? Your layout really is coming along lovely, loving the TMD area 👍
You mentioned that you had fitted new gears, could you explain where you obtained the gears. I want to get into n gauge and the problems with splitting gears worries me. But if I can change the gears it will encourage me to take the dive into n gauge, cheers Dale.
Things have changed a bit since this video. you can now readily obtain gears from "Farish N Spares" or "Bachmann" so no need to worry 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW
Thank you for the prompt reply. I have two class 37s unused in their boxes must be 13 years old I will try them on a test track. Great videos by the way!
@@DaleYates-m3p some of the Poole 47's ive fixed in videos are pretty much the same chassis, if you have any split gears the axles will be 16t gears 👍
Would love to know exactly how you fitted dcc on the 20. I've hit nothing but snags with mine and I'm no further forward with it.
What kind of snags are you having? I just put the decoder within the battery box, two wires to the chassis(motor) isolate bogies from chassis, wire decoder to bogies for the track pick up👍
Nice video and a fair comparison. I found that the Farish 5-pole motors get really hot and bothered fairly quickly - I tried a coreless motor in a Farish 47 and it will now run all day without any issues. It ran for 2 four-hour sessions a couple of Saturdays ago - I don't think the original motor would have survived. The Class 20 weighs in at 92g, the 25 will be about 86g (with the original Farish motor). I'm impressed by your gears - you should have worked for Farish!
Ha my gears havent cracked yet surprisingly! I did weigh mine and at the time of filming the Class 25 came in at 76g and the class 20 came in heavier at 88g so similar weights to yours actually 👍 ive never done a continuous 4 hr stint but that is really interesting to hear about your experience with using coreless motors, i think il have to revisit this video in the future and try and do a better conparison, maybe il try a slightly larger coreless motor so the benefits of going coreless for me are more clear cut 👍
Have you ever worked with a Class 101 DMBS (Graham Farish 8133). I can’t get mine working.
Do you do repairs?
Hi yes ive repaired all types of DMUs from Graham Farish new and old, yes i can do repairs. You can reach me at baylissbespokedesigns@gmail.com 👍
Is there a way to convert my old Lima 51 with a burnt out ringfield motor to a newer style of motor please, i am new to n scale. thankyou.
Unfortunately i have looked alot into this not found a suitable motor to replace the limas ringfield motors as of yet, i will keep looking though, if i do find something i will be sure to upload a video here, lets hope a coreless type motor appears on the market soon.
1. @5:09 Holy HSTs, Batman! How many have you got??!??
2. I'm thinking of putting a video together on how to measure a loco's performance electrically, but I only have (sniff) 4 HSTs. I wonder if you would be interested in measuring some of yours - good and bad runners - to get some idea of what a "good" loco should read?
Tbh i dont have a dodgey HST atm!! Electronically anyways that is... Generally speaking they would all read differently and it would depend on where you measured really... Are you checking for amps? Resistance? Insulation? Generally speaking if you can go fast and slow then the loco works lol... The real way to see how good a loco is is probably to crawl them however the poole type chassis's alone vary greatly, in short if you have a hot to the touch loco then somethings wrong... I have absolutely no idea how many HST's i have, but i do know they all run like new now 😁
I think really i know when a loco is bad if it runs loud,slow,hot or wont crawl... Any one of those symptoms and il service it 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW One reads 106 ohms track-to-track, and won't go; another reads 85 ohms and sets off with about 8v across it, leaving only 4V for speed range; the third reads 45 ohms and sets off at 5.5v, and obviously runs the faster.
I'm assuming that a well-fettled loco needs even less to pull off, leaving more for speed range, but whether that's 5.4v or 2.4v is something I can't find anywhere.
@@kitmoore9969 another quick test ive done in the past is use a one cell lipo, in my case it wasnt fully charged reading at 3v.. that was my minimum test voltage if the loco moved and crawled it was good. If it didnt move i took it apart and serviced it. Now i take them all apart and clean them up. Your resistance test will be different with different locos as they will be wound differently. It really is a tricky thing to test. Generally if my locos dont crawl, make a nasty noise, heat up il strip them down, hopefully this helps? Doing resistance check i dont think would be a consistent way of checking locos against each other as theres just to many variables to potentially mislead you 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW No, that's a good start ... it should crawl at 3v. Thank you very much!
Hi again is this the same 20 that you did the gear change on in your last video for the 20? I followed your instructions and got mine up and running great many thanks for info on that. Now I have another question, am I right in assuming that you have converted this loco to DCC ? As I like to do this to mine, but can’t find any vids to show how it is done
I have two that look very similar, the gear changed one is the sister Class 20 of the one in this video, i just mount the decoders between bogies on the underside of the loco, i can show you how i wired the decoder in a future video, its not pretty but it works 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW thanks for replying, I love to see how you did this conversion and look forward to seeing this done.. thanks
Good video. Did you weigh the 20 and the 25? I expect the 20 is heavier, with the die-cast metal body, and that's why it can pull more.
Hi Sam, yes i suspect you are correct 👍, i havent got any scales to hand atm but i will weigh them and let you know, might even do another comparison video in the future, maybe a more scientific version 👍
Just weighed both locos, class 25 comes in at 76g and the class 20 comes in heavier at 88g so yes more weight equals more traction... 👍👍