If I had a oil consuming Kia I would start with BG 44k in 10 gallons of top tier gas during the last 300 miles before an oil change. I would then flush the engine with BG EPR for 30 minutes at 1200 rpm. Next, I would drain the oil and start a berrymans B12 chemtool piston soak (2 cans) for 4 days with the oil plug out and periodic agitation. Afterwards, I would remove the berrymans with a extraction tool and rinse the cylinders with Marvel mystery oil to restore lubricity. I would pour the remaining MMO into the crankcase to rinse the oil pan of any solvent. Next, I would use a cheap synthetic oil and filter to rinse the engine for 40 minutes at operating temperature. For the actual cleaning, I would use a combination of VR&P and HPL Engine Cleaner at 5:1 ratio for the first oil change. Oil filter inspections would be performed at 150, 400, 1200, and 2000 miles (oem filter.) For the next 3 oil changes (or more), I would just use VR&P by itself for 4000 miles (wix xp filter.) For the last 600 miles before each oil change I would use gumout multi-tune with pea (1.5oz/gal) in top tier gas. Once 4 oil changes were performed then I would conduct an oil consumption test. For maintenance, I would permanently stick with 5w30 VR&P with a wix xp filter and use two 20oz bottles (600 miles) of techron before each oil change. The fuel injector cleaner is necessary because there is a ring of contaminates at the top of the cylinder that can affect rings with changes in driving behavior.
I did the Seafoam trick through the brake booster on my 97 Civic... I should've cleaned it at the shop but since it was easy I did it at home... I got pulled over literally just a few short blocks from my house, luckily he was a town cop and used to be in our Fire Dept. so I knew him, he thought my car was on fire so I told him that I just ran some cleaner through it and was going to go out and hit the back roads to clean it out. I found once out on the highway I quickly needed to get off that road before someone called it in, you couldn't hardly see anything behind me from all the smoke so I made the first turnoff and stayed out of sight until it cleared up.
Wow, anyone following this kitchen sink " Chemical cocktail " , could be putting their engine in serious jeopardy ! As one oil engineer told me, you are playing Russian Roulette when mixing chemicals like in this video. For those watching, the only thing in this video that will be safe, is to use the Valvoline Restore and Protect.
@@the_track_enthusiast , I understand, and i have been guilty of the snake oil trend. I had an engine blow up a several years ago. Yes it was noisy and was a known problem of engineering, so i just chalked it up to broken parts. Fast forward to this year and after talking to an expert on oil formulations for race engines, he said it could be because i ran too many additives for too long. What happens is, every single ounce of fluid put in the engine upsets the balance of the chemistry, and the more you use , the worse it is. So, i have the infamous Toyota 2AZFE engine now, with the low tension rings ( which most modern cars have now) and it is using oil, which i am told mostly because low tension rings should never be allowed to suffer from 10,000 mile or more oil changes. As luck would have it, Valvoline came out with this new oil. So i tried it and its actually working all by itself, Which is lucky because there must not be much if any cylinder wall damage, otherwise it won't work most likely cuz its not designed to fix mechanical damage obviously. My comment seemed harsh i'm sure, but i have done a lot of research into oil for the last 40 years. I can't tell you how to run your channel, but my suggestion would be to not use anything but the oil, but for the sake of experimentation, you could use 1 product at a time, and that would help you confirm or eliminate each product. Best of luck, have a safe Holiday season :)
My sister has a 2013 accent with this 1.6. 155K miles and she owned it since new. I was replacing a crank sensor for her and just decided to look at the oil. She was down 2 qts on a motor that only takes 3.5qts and the sludge I could see through the oil fill tube looked awful. Turns out she was at about 7K miles on whatever oil the quick lube place put in it. (as far as i know they were maintaining it well with 3K changes until this last one) I did an oil change with Valvoline restore and protect and bumped it up to 5w 30 from the 5w 20 they had been using. Changed it again at 1600 miles and she had only burned a tiny bit (like a tenth of a qt) will do the next one at 3K but I think it's great stuff for this engine. I didn't take pictures but it looks to me like its slowly cleaning some of the sludge off the small area i can see through the oil fill. Hope it goes well for your Kia too!
ATS has a pretty good two piece kit. One is a carbon cleaner, the other is a furl system cleaner. Both worked quite well on my 2013 audi q5 with 82k miles.
That's a kitchen sink lol I have experience with this engine also. Mine only burned a quart every 2-3k miles. The best result I had was with the liqui moly engine flush, but it has to be done with a super hot oil already before the liqui moly goes in. Liqui moly with cold oil did nothing
Nice thorough video but how would you go about it with a manual transmission? 183k 2014, just ran the cataclean, replaced spark plugs with nkg and STP engine flush. Check engine light is on 02 sensor code. Replaced battery and alternator earlier this year but now my lights flicker inside the car and headlights.
thanks ! I would look at the connection for the alternator. The check engine light you can turn off with a simple OBD code reader ( it worked for me with a unit for $19 from walmart ). As far as running the engine flush or ATF i’d just put it in neutral , put the parking brake on and just let the car idle for an hour or two with ATF in the crank case. My friends car is already within spec in under 800 miles with the Valvoline restore and protect
If I had a oil consuming Kia I would start with BG 44k in 10 gallons of top tier gas during the last 300 miles before an oil change. I would then flush the engine with BG EPR for 30 minutes at 1200 rpm. Next, I would drain the oil and start a berrymans B12 chemtool piston soak (2 cans) for 4 days with the oil plug out and periodic agitation. Afterwards, I would remove the berrymans with a extraction tool and rinse the cylinders with Marvel mystery oil to restore lubricity. I would pour the remaining MMO into the crankcase to rinse the oil pan of any solvent. Next, I would use a cheap synthetic oil and filter to rinse the engine for 40 minutes at operating temperature.
For the actual cleaning, I would use a combination of VR&P and HPL Engine Cleaner at 5:1 ratio for the first oil change. Oil filter inspections would be performed at 150, 400, 1200, and 2000 miles (oem filter.) For the next 3 oil changes (or more), I would just use VR&P by itself for 4000 miles (wix xp filter.) For the last 600 miles before each oil change I would use gumout multi-tune with pea (1.5oz/gal) in top tier gas. Once 4 oil changes were performed then I would conduct an oil consumption test.
For maintenance, I would permanently stick with 5w30 VR&P with a wix xp filter and use two 20oz bottles (600 miles) of techron before each oil change. The fuel injector cleaner is necessary because there is a ring of contaminates at the top of the cylinder that can affect rings with changes in driving behavior.
I did the Seafoam trick through the brake booster on my 97 Civic... I should've cleaned it at the shop but since it was easy I did it at home... I got pulled over literally just a few short blocks from my house, luckily he was a town cop and used to be in our Fire Dept. so I knew him, he thought my car was on fire so I told him that I just ran some cleaner through it and was going to go out and hit the back roads to clean it out. I found once out on the highway I quickly needed to get off that road before someone called it in, you couldn't hardly see anything behind me from all the smoke so I made the first turnoff and stayed out of sight until it cleared up.
You made me laugh out loud with the Diddy Freak Off joke. That was funny.
Wow, anyone following this kitchen sink " Chemical cocktail " , could be putting their engine in serious jeopardy ! As one oil engineer told me, you are playing Russian Roulette when mixing chemicals like in this video. For those watching, the only thing in this video that will be safe, is to use the Valvoline Restore and Protect.
It worked ! And this is used by tons of fleet mechanics BTW
@@the_track_enthusiast , I understand, and i have been guilty of the snake oil trend. I had an engine blow up a several years ago. Yes it was noisy and was a known problem of engineering, so i just chalked it up to broken parts. Fast forward to this year and after talking to an expert on oil formulations for race engines, he said it could be because i ran too many additives for too long. What happens is, every single ounce of fluid put in the engine upsets the balance of the chemistry, and the more you use , the worse it is. So, i have the infamous Toyota 2AZFE engine now, with the low tension rings ( which most modern cars have now) and it is using oil, which i am told mostly because low tension rings should never be allowed to suffer from 10,000 mile or more oil changes. As luck would have it, Valvoline came out with this new oil. So i tried it and its actually working all by itself, Which is lucky because there must not be much if any cylinder wall damage, otherwise it won't work most likely cuz its not designed to fix mechanical damage obviously. My comment seemed harsh i'm sure, but i have done a lot of research into oil for the last 40 years. I can't tell you how to run your channel, but my suggestion would be to not use anything but the oil, but for the sake of experimentation, you could use 1 product at a time, and that would help you confirm or eliminate each product. Best of luck, have a safe Holiday season :)
My sister has a 2013 accent with this 1.6. 155K miles and she owned it since new. I was replacing a crank sensor for her and just decided to look at the oil. She was down 2 qts on a motor that only takes 3.5qts and the sludge I could see through the oil fill tube looked awful. Turns out she was at about 7K miles on whatever oil the quick lube place put in it. (as far as i know they were maintaining it well with 3K changes until this last one) I did an oil change with Valvoline restore and protect and bumped it up to 5w 30 from the 5w 20 they had been using. Changed it again at 1600 miles and she had only burned a tiny bit (like a tenth of a qt) will do the next one at 3K but I think it's great stuff for this engine. I didn't take pictures but it looks to me like its slowly cleaning some of the sludge off the small area i can see through the oil fill. Hope it goes well for your Kia too!
I would think all this would actually cause more issues. 😳
Oh my that's a lot of chemicals.
ATS has a pretty good two piece kit. One is a carbon cleaner, the other is a furl system cleaner. Both worked quite well on my 2013 audi q5 with 82k miles.
You could have showed us the before and after of what the inside of the engine looks like by opening up the rocker cover
This is pretty aggressive but the results speak for themselves
Way too many flushes. Wasting $ and product. No need for all that. The 1st tyranny flush was still redish.
Total overkill, lol. I would have maybe done one flush and then switched to restore and protect.
tried that and it didn’t work.
Just use R+P and change often.
Nice video!
Thanks!🙏🏽
I poured BBs into my engine with lifter tick. I couldn't hear the ticking over the BBs bouncing around.
That's a kitchen sink lol I have experience with this engine also. Mine only burned a quart every 2-3k miles. The best result I had was with the liqui moly engine flush, but it has to be done with a super hot oil already before the liqui moly goes in. Liqui moly with cold oil did nothing
Nice thorough video but how would you go about it with a manual transmission? 183k 2014, just ran the cataclean, replaced spark plugs with nkg and STP engine flush. Check engine light is on 02 sensor code. Replaced battery and alternator earlier this year but now my lights flicker inside the car and headlights.
thanks ! I would look at the connection for the alternator. The check engine light you can turn off with a simple OBD code reader ( it worked for me with a unit for $19 from walmart ). As far as running the engine flush or ATF i’d just put it in neutral , put the parking brake on and just let the car idle for an hour or two with ATF in the crank case. My friends car is already within spec in under 800 miles with the Valvoline restore and protect
is the alternator an OEM unit ? new ?
@@the_track_enthusiast New altenator from autozone $400 this year or last. New AGM battery from this year from walmart.
id use 5w 40 just to use thicker oil to fill in the loose engine parts.
@salvationbygracethroughfaith modern engines after 2009ish. Have low tension oil rings and when they cardon up they stick which causes oil to burn ...
Id use 140w much much thicker oil to fill loose engine parts
You’d have fun with all the vvt codes that would pop up if you put that in it, the 1.6l gamma engine has a very sensitive vvt system