Except for fuel additives. I'm doing the fuel injector cleaning because i've removed injectors and cleaned them and it does work. Oil additives are a real joke.
@@billyjack8119 Use only fuel additives (gasoline) containing PEA every 3-5 thousand miles. Most total fuel system cleaners contain PEA. For diesel, Howes Diesel Defender during warm months and Howes Diesel Treatment in cold climates for anti-gel.
My son has a 2014 Volvo S60 that has the notorious oil burning piston rings. It was burning about a quart every 1,750 miles. We just completed the first full run of Restore & Protect and the last top off was only 8 ounces in 1,196 miles. Just changed it at an OCI of about 4,200 miles. So it went from burning a quart in 1,750 miles to the equivalent of about 12 ounces in 1,750 miles. I'm actually shocked in a good way, and even if we don't get any further improvement, it's a huge win. The stuff actually works
@@KarlwinsFive That's good to know. I was going to try the piston soak but then heard about the Restore and Protect. Thought the oil changes would be easier. So far, so good. 👍
Tried it in mine and it does work. 4000 miles into the restore and protect oil and oil burning went from a quart per 1000 miles to 1 quart per 2400 miles. Hoping for continuing improvements on the subsequent oil changes.
I've recently been switching everyone's vehicles I work on with Valvoline Restore and Protect. I actually switched my buddy's 2009 2.4 Camry to the new formula yesterday. All I can say is it has made a difference in everyone's vehicles. One of the most noticeable differences is it smooths out rough-sounding engines after one or two short drives. My buddy's Camry has the famous VVT rattle at startup, and it's burning oil. So far, the VVT startup rattle was a lot quieter already-kinda nuts. The Oil Geek Guy has some in-depth reviews, and ever since he did the engine oil expiration video, I always make sure to give my oil a good shake before pouring to ensure all the additive packs are mixed well and not sitting at the bottom of the container. You've got yourself a new sub; looking forward to more reviews and this final review cliffhanger. 😂👍🏻
The brief, variable valve timing clicking after a cold start in my girl friend's 2014 Honda CRV is now gone. The car has about 126,000 miles on it now. The first oil change with Vavoline's Restore and Protect got too dirty after 2,400 miles, which worried me. So I changed it. The car is now about a quarter of the way through its second change (7,500 mile oil life). The CRV used to use 1/2 quart of oil in 7,000 miles. Now the oil use is undetectable on the dipstick after 1,500 miles. 🤷♂️ It probably is a good idea to keep an eye on the oil after starting to use Restore and Protect for the first time in a high mileage engine. It gets black unexpectedly fast. In my low mileage Toyota, the Restore and Protect darkened normally, so I changed it at 5,000 miles.
Agreed in fact I bought a pack of oil filters to replace after 100 miles, 500 miles. From what I’ve been reading it tends to clog up the filter initially.
@@chriswyma145100% agree. I had to get a tire rotation and the shop checked the oil and they called me because they were concerned how dark the oil was.
@thestets63 Hmmm, interesting. I have extra filters to replace during my initial R&P use. I think I will be using one of my prepaid Blackstone Lab analysis if & when my oil goes dark. Most likely I will change it, too. Thing we DO KNOW is gas engine oil doesn't have same suspension properties the diesel engine oil has. Oil filters micron capture is ~30. There will be substantial amounts of garbage in dark oil; what effect on bearings would occur if dark oil is used for remainder of OCInterval. I will try to remember to post The lab result.
I'm anxious to see your results as I too have been considering the Valvoline blue restore. I drive Subarus and boxers are hard to piston soak. Currently I've found the very best piston soak involves having the engine out and doing a low and slow soak. It involves removing the oil pan and spark plugs. Rotate crank until TDC with valves closed on one cylinder. Fill that cylinder with Lucas oil (or motor honey). Put it's sparkplug in so as to cap the cylinder. Rotate engine upside down and generously fill the backside of just that cylinder's piston with B-12. It will not drain away through the rings because the cylinder below is filled with heavy oil. Leave soak for 24hrs. Next, catch the B-12 as you slowly rotate back upright. Now remove spark plug and drain the cylinder of heavy oil by flipping back upside down for a while. Rotate next cylinder to TDC valves closed and repeat all steps of the daylong procedure for each cylinder one at a time. It's a long process, but the B-12 being unable to drain off and the fact the soaking is actually at the oil drain holes of oil rings makes all the difference. Also, there is no danger to rubber seals. NOTE:If cam shaft is reasonably removeable then all cylinders could be done at once as all valves would remain closed. Now pour some fuel or solvent in all cylinders and drain them again to remove the residue of the heavy oil. Put in clean or preferably new spark plugs. Now, put oil pan back on and cap any openings of block, then put in oil and rotate the engine in stand 90 degrees at a time slowly and allow oil to seep into all bearing surfaces that have washed out from the proceedure. Reinstall engine. Change filter after first 500 miles as carbon bits will be weakened and broken up and come out rapidly.
2001 OBS V-8 5.3l Chevy Silverado 224,000 I had 1000 miles on my Val Restore Protect [ Lifter ] no longer clicking at start up, plus im getting alittle power ] notice it driving over the Rocky Mts on a non stop 500mile trip across Colorado. Going to changer out oil at 2,000miles and 5,000 on the next 3 oil changes using This GREAT Product.
Has to be over 20mins for best results with the algorithm. It's allot of hard work setting up the camera and editing, keeping the content interesting. A day in the life of Dave. Very interesting. That's Entertainment.
I love this series! Dave tries it so you dont have to! I have a 2001 corolla with 135k that started using about a quart every 2.5 to 3k. Two berrymans flush (not a soak) reduced it to bout a third of a quart per 3k. With all you've done i suspect you had a groove worn in the bore even before you started which is why nothing has really worked. When you bore scoped it way back when you could see the shadow on the thrust side of the bore. Thats the groove im talking about. I suspect the damage was done way before you even got the car! Youve managed to still get 200k out of it which is a testiment to 3k oil changes keeping it kind of where it was at or a little better! Keep up the good work!
I am using R&P 5W30 in a 2006 Toyota RAV4 with a 2AZ-FE right now. When purchased at 131k miles it was burning 1QT every 300 miles on highway, and 1QT every 600 miles around town. Did a 24-hour B12 Chemtool piston soak to decarbon/free up the stuck oil rings, then let the engine idle with 2 quarts of Chemtool that ran past the rings during the soak for a bit, and then a short OCI with a cheap oil, then put in Valvoline R&P 5W-30. But I won't know if it primarily benefitted from Chemtool soak, or R&P, or both. This 2AZ-FE has documented OCI of every 5000 miles for its entire life, all the way to 135k, with most being done at a Toyota dealership. The longest documented OCI ever was 6k miles. Just took a highway trip, and the results were amazing. It consumed 1/4th QT over 819 miles. Before the Chemtool and R&P oil, it would have consumed 2.75 quarts of oil on that distance. Using 800 miles per 1/4th QT, that's 3200 miles per quart of oil. An improvement of 5X. I am hoping if the Valvoline Restore and Protect does its job over time - it will at minimum keep the stuck ring deposit problem from returning, and might even see some improvement on consumption after 4 OCI's. 6/2/24 - 135832 miles B12 piston soak for 24 hours with manual cylinder rotation Run engine at idle for 5 minutes (with the residual B12 Chemtool in the crankcase, 2 cans worth) Drained oil, and changed with Kirkland 5W-30 and Wix XP filter. 6/30/24 - 135860 miles Changed oil and filter to remove any residual Chemtool and any debris that might have come loose from the Chemtool circulating in the system Oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with a Wix XP filter Installed new spark plugs - NGK iridium. 7/23/24 - 136149 miles Checked oil. No movement on dipstick, still touching full mark - 289 miles since oil change, all around town local driving. 8/3/2024 - 136314 miles Started 819 mile highway trip. Checked oil - level still touching full mark. 8/3/2024 - 137133 miles Completed 819 mile highway trip. Oil is 3/4 full between the marks, it consumed 1/4 quart on the trip. Did not bother topping up.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 11/25/2024 - 135389 miles. So, it has been driven 2529 miles since the piston soak and oil change. No oil has been added. It is currently right between the two marks on the dipstick (according to him), so around a half quart low. It is about to make a 1000 mile trip home, so I will have more data when it gets here. If the current consumption holds, it is burning 1 quart every 5000 miles which is fantastic. I will likely do another oil change with Valvoline R&P 5W30 over the holidays before he takes it back to college.
I've been following this from day one, can't wait to see if it works, trying to get my oil burner fixed or at least better. Keeping my fingers crossed this works 🤞
The Restore and Protect is incredible stuff. My first couple of oil changes looked like complete garbage, but fuel economy is up and oil consumption is down! 4.7L Jeep engine.
Great video. I was missing not seeing something new. Hope you are well. I appreciate your channel and all what you do. Greetings from Southern California
I have 2008 Camry it was burning 1 quarter every 300 miles I did berryman b12 chemtool now I drove 700 miles car burn less than 1/2 quarter with valvolin restore and protect. For me very good success
Thanks for bringing us along, Dave! I really hope You can solve the oil burning issues. I just bought a '99 corolla 5spd with 173k mi. from it's original owner. Thankfully, He kept it well maintained, so it's never leaked, or burn oil. When I got it home, I immediately ran the dynamic engine restoration system through it. But I took it a step further: For the first step, I drove it for an hr. both on freeways, & city roads, and driving it under the same conditions for 30mins. during the 2nd step bringing the revs all throughout the rev range(up to 5k at some points) during both phases of the flushing process. Thankfully, the flushing chemicals drained out with only a small amount of color change. Finished up the oil change with a toyota OEM filter, & Pennzoil High Mileage platinum synthetic. I then replaced the Transmission fluid with Amsoil synthetic api GL-4 75-90 along with a major tune up. It runs & shifts even better now! It still drives like new. Eventually, I plan on replacing the factory oil pan with an aftermarket oil pan which not only has better baffling than the OE pan, but will also bump up the capacity by 1.3qts. bringing the total oil capacity to 5.2qts. I love that little '99. IDC that it only generates 122bhp, the fact that it's so light compared to other cars on the road makes it so much fun to drive😆😆😆 I'm never getting a rid of that little gem. I also have an '02 camry with the 2AZ-FE engine(243k mi.), and it was burning a small amount when I bought it back in 2020. I did the exact same procedure with the camry as I just did with the corolla when I flushed the camry earlier this year. Now it only burns oil when I really lean into it, but when I drive it gently like a normal person, It doesn't burn at all. The camry also drives like new, having regained roughly 90% of it's original power output since the BG flush.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks Dave! You should try the GL-4 75-90 Synthetic Manual Trans fluid by Amsoil. I got them in qt sized bags, and it was so much easier to fill the Trans. My corolla shifts so good after changing it over. The bags cost a little more than the bottles, but it's worth the comvenience
In twenty sixteen my 01 Isuzu 3.5 developed a oil consumption issue, after looking into it was very likely clogged oil return holes in the oil control ring lands, Isuzu was aware of the problem and had updated the pistons with larger return holes, Jasper rebuilt engines had them seemed to resolve the issue, had I known about this oil I would have certainly tried it, looking forward to the next episode
I recently bought a 2008 Rav4 with a 2AZ-FE engine that was using about a quart every 1000 miles. First I replaced the PCV valve it was definitely in need of replacement but it still burned oil afterwards. Then I drove it a bunch and on a particular steep hill around here I stood on it pretty hard a few times as I drove though and it seems to have stopped burning oil (Hard pulls under load can help free rings up aka "The italian tuneup" now I have Restore and Protect in it to see if it burns oil anymore and if it stops hopefully keep it from starting again. Update 11/20/2024: Still burning oil but it hasn't gotten worse. Only 1700 miles into the first OCI with it. Getting up to 31mpg on the highway so it's still got great compression and hasn't scored the cylinder walls. Oil consumption absolutely will go up if you have a lot of high engine speed deceleration events (stop and go driving, lots of downhill coasting) because with the throttle plate closed cylinder vacuum will pull more oil up past the rings.
Finally! I agree with a commenter a few months back who said you should consider a road trip to the Car Care Nut in Chicago. Not close but there's no one better on YT when it comes to understanding and diagnosing issues with new and old Toyota engines 👍🏻 (Also would make for a great cross-over episode 😉)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY same 👍🏻. Also thought I'd share - I drive an 00's Corolla and put Restore & Protect in it 500 miles ago. At first I thought it was placebo, but I am now 100% positive I've got maybe 10-15% power back when accelerating. Kinda shocked how quickly I saw a change. Am gonna open up my filter after 2k. Food for thought - keep up the great vids 🤘🏻
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY if you watch his vids you'd know that your engine needs to be replaced. The cylinder walls and piston rings are gone. Wake up and smell the end of making $$ on these ridiculous videos giving people false hope.
Dave, I'm so excited that you decided to do another experiment. I'm looking forward to the results on this one. In the mean time I'm going to try the "Restore & Protect" in my 1ZZFE engine. I'm like you though, it'll take me 2 years to complete the full 4 oil change interval cycle. However, if it actually does make a difference it will be worth it. Can't wait to see your results in part 2.
I think you’re going to burn off the cheap oil. The Blue should be 100% in order to get the cleaning results. Note: it can clean so well as to clog the filter. But just change the filter and continue to the prescribed mileage. All the best to you!
Yes. As per Cummins and Valvoline, you're supposed to use 100% Restore and add Restore to top off for one oil change interval. Cummins warned us that it won't work properly if we mixed in regular oil to top off.
No way it'll clog anything after this guy did 59 oil changes and a BG Flush treatment. That engine is probably pristine inside other than the plugged up oil rings
We used the old Restore from the Cummins dealer to clean the rings of our Cumms ISX and it worked for the consumption. The issue with the Toyota Corolla is the rings will stick and score up the cylinder walls. The only way these can be fixed is new rings and hone/bore the cylinder if it's bad enough and use oversize pistons. I wish I were wrong, though as I hope it will fix your problem.
Thank you for all of your experiments and great videos! I have a 2006 Honda CRV using a quart every 500 miles and am going down the path of troubleshooting it. It is common in that car. Your videos are very helpful for me. I have only watched about 5 of the 30 videos so far, including the last one. I think you made some progress, but haven't seen which one did it. My car is getting an OEM Honda PCV today as a first step.
I watched the berrymans videos and others after those. I think it worked mostly because of the method used for the berrymans test. And I am sure it is a good product. But you didn’t use the same method with the products after that. However, maybe you have gotten the best gain out of that first berrymans test and you wont see anything better. You got quite a good gain and your oil usage now isnt that abnormal. Your videos are excellent and methods good. Very much appreciated thank you!
My 2012 scion XB died ( with a 2AZFE engine ) that was burning oil while I was waiting for your results. The engine blew up. Lost compression on one cylinder and it wasn’t worth fixing. Bought a new Camry hybrid 2024. It’s wonderful and I’ll maintain from new!
Out of curiosity, how many miles? I have a 2004 Camry with the same engine. It has about 210k miles. It does have a few small leaks, it loses some oil that way, but it bizarrely enough doesn't burn/consume oil enough to need topping up between changes. I wonder if the newer 2AZ-FEs and their lower tension rings are all the culprit.
@@MattExzy What happens is that eventually the stuck control ring and can stuck shifted over and it will wear away at the cylinder wall. First the oil burning will go up to about the level DIY Dave here is burning oil then it will wear it so much compression is lost. These are not machinable blocks, they are not meant to be punched and honed. If the cross hatch was worn away in a spot the warranty repair was a new short block instead of piston, rings, and squirter replacement.
I thought it was so awesome when Tribologist Lake mentioned you in a video. He has opened my eyes to the progression of oil science (and DIY mixing additives). IIRC, Lake was the individual who presented Costco's Kirkland oil analysis that showed variances.
Im just getttin ready to do this experiment with my 98 Corolla as well. I know your rolling the dice on your Cat, but Ive already put this on my maintenance list so its an acceptable risk. That Cummins Gen 2 is some powerful decarboning Mojo. The only chemical based cleansers after that are either DMSO or an EDTA based cleaner (Stihl Decarbonizer was the easiest to get retail but they discontinued it because of the mild life damaging properties)
I would like to share an experience I had with one of my long distance interstate trucks, here in Australia. When I bought my Mack new in 1999, I ran 20,000km oil changes and oil samples, on the branded Mack Bulldog (Castrol made) engine oil (mineral 15W40). At about 300,000 km the engine was beginning to use about 3 liters ever 3500km ( a weeks work). My application, was 65 ton B-double, each km, so the truck was high load application. I switched my oil brand to Cummins Premium Blue 15W40 mineral engine oil, and oil consumption dropped dramatically, down to 1 liter per 3500km. Had similar experiences with other vehicles from new. Worst engine oil consumption I had, was a second hand V8 Mack engine, that had 1.5 million km's and it was using 20 liters every 1000km. When it was pulled down for rebuild, it had every piston ring broken and 4 broken head studs (over 4 cylinder heads) and all the valve guides were shot, and the turbocharger was passing oil through its seal.
Wooo the saga continues! Congratulations to the continuing success of your happy family The Yamaha Ring Free (Yamalube, whatever it was called), did such an outstanding job cleaning the combustion chamber/piston tops, that I don't imagine this Valvoline Premium Blue Restore, will do much better, regarding carbon deposits. But I'm not really sure what the varying theories would be. I guess that there is oil being squirted on the underside of the pistons (and cylinder walls), and that it is possible the VPBR has some chemical in it, which will better-clean those piston rings, than the other prior oil additives. (Yamaha Ring Free only comes to mind, because it is one of the most-successful visual treatments that I can recall in this series) Maybe someone could speculate about oil drainback passageways opening more, or something. I don't remember if other "flush" products in the Corolla have (visually) removed much carbon (became black after the oil change interval). I don't really remember or understand the theory regarding what area(s) VPBR would target: -Generally camshaft-area sludge (I think you see a lot of this in specific car models, or when people leave oil in their car for tens of thousands of miles) -Internal oil passageways? Oil squirters? Oil lubrication holes (where oil comes out to touch bearings)? -Pistons/piston rings, maybe valve faces/seats/stem seals (I guess it can touch the backside of valves via the intake manifold/PCV) It'll be interesting to see how it performs, regardless of the layman theory. I think I am still ranking DMSO at the top of the mountain, regarding "get black stuff out of engines fast+cheap" (whether a good idea or not, who's to say). But that is my current expertise from reading a few hours of internet posts :D Long live the Corolla!
I have a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0L with 317k miles on it. I've put nearly 200k of those miles on it myself. It's always lost a bit of oil between oil changes, but as of the past year it's been using a lot of oil, even after fixing all the oil leaks. It was nearly a quart every 500 miles, and I change my oil religiously with full synthetic. I've used everything from pennzoil ultra platinum to Rotella T6, anything that flows well cold and tops the wear tests. I've also tried Marvel Mystery Oil here and there before oil changes. Under the valve cover is spotless. However, it was still losing oil. I am on my first oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect, and I must say I am so impressed with the oil. By the third trip, I noticed something different, there was a lot more pep while accelerating up the on ramp on my trip to work, and the engine was sooo smooth running. I could pass cars with much less effort. Once I needed to fill up, at about 350 miles, I checked the oil, it was so clean compared to normal, still golden and clear, but it also had only used about 1/3rd of a quart! I topped it off later and about 600 miles later it's only used 1/3rd of a quart again! Im about to get to the 1500 mile mark and I am hopeful I can get it down to about 1/3rd quart every 1000 miles, or even better. I expected to not see any differences until at least 2 oil changes or so in, since it claims to take 4, but halfway through the first one and It's already done more than I could have hoped for! I'm definitely sold on this oil, and I'm excited to see how it does as the miles go on!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I just went on a 1200 mile trip last night and here's the report so far. The 600 miles for every 1/3rd qt seems to be holding steady. After 1200 miles of highway driving, I used 2/3rd of a qt. So it's looking like I can go 1800 miles before needing to add a quart, which is much better! All the external leaks are fixed but I still need to do valve stem seals. I have the 1200 mile drive back on Saturday, so I'll give an update on how it's doing then!
I changed the oil before driving back (3k miles on the first oil change). The return trip used 1/3rd of a quart in 1200 miles! I would call that fixed!
Oils designed for diesel engines have ZDDP, an additive that acts as a corrosion inhibitor and a lubrication enhancer. It was common in heavier gasoline engine oils prior to catalytic converters. However, this additive can ruin catalytic converters, which is likely why Valvoline doesn't recommend it for gasoline engines.
Dave!!!!! We have the same car, manual tranny and all. 120k miles on mine, but mine was a city driven car. Burns quart every 550 miles, I sure hope this is works as a band aid!
My 2001 Rolla was severely neglected when I bought it. I was the 5th owner with 179,000 miles on it. It burned a quart per 1000 miles. 4000 miles into my restore and protect oil change it now burns 1 quart in 2400 miles. The stuff works and I hope to see continuing improvement with the next 3 oil changes.
@@totallyrandomstuffandrevie9609 How many oil filter changes did you do in between? The oil filter is quite small, so I feel like it would not be a bad idea to change it a few times while running that oil in the engine.
My 05 Infiniti FX45 has eaten a buttload of oil over the last five years. I've used Amsoil, RP, Schaeffer's, etc, all high-end boutique-style oils and none of them helped clean up the oil control rings. So Motor Oil Geek informed me about Valvoline specialty oil "Restore" but I couldn't find any, so I ran a cycle of Valvoline Premium Blue and consumption started slowing down. Current oil in the sump is Restore & Protect. Oil consumption appears to have completely ceased. I haven't had to add any oil over the last month of driving, and fuel economy improved slightly. The car's running better than ever.
I've run Schaeffers Supreme 9000 in three cars and I believe you have to use it before the problems start. My current daily has almost 157k on it, and has run Schaeffers from 1800 miles ( basically I broke it in on the factory oil, then switched. I got the car new with 32 miles on it and except for one change Schaeffers is all it had ). Never used oil, immaculate on the inside.
Valvaline restore needs multiple oil changes to take full effect. Its also good to open the oil filter to check for sludge build up, you might have to change the filter first time used as after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how bad the engine is. I always like to have my oil below the top line it's better to have low oil levels then high..
Hey thanks for the shout out. Look forward to seeing the results. I'm almost 2k miles in on using the Valvoline R&P. Still too soon to say there's been any discernible improvement. As I recall the Valvoline tech in the Motoroil Geek video mentioned it takes around 90hrs engine running time to see improvement.
F I WATCHED THIS CHANNEL LIKE A TV SHOW FROM EPISODE 7 TO 30 IN LESS THAN 6 HOURS!!! LOTS OF INFORMATION COMING THRU DAVE AND COMMENTS. I APPRECIATE IT.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Very grateful, i was searching for my own about oil leakage, and i found 2 products that i'll try my self: Marvel Mystery Oir and ATP 205 reseal, then i think ill do some ceratec, i will aplly in small amounts to see how it reacts with engine. CHEERS! THANKS FOR SHARING!
It wont help for long if it helps at all. After everything you have ran through this engine your engine is as clean as it will ever be short of tearing it apart hand cleaning with solvents and brushes. The problem is that the oil consumption issue was not caught soon enough. If it goes on too long or the previous owner did oil changes that where too far apart it damages the bores near the bottom of the rings travel. So even if you clean the ring groves in the piston you only get a temp. improvment because the damage to the bore has already been done. You can have great looking cross hatching but you will see dark shadow like area's inthe bore just the very top of it can be seen witht he pistons in the engine. If you have ever scene those penny rolling/pressing machines at fairs and museums and such they will be patches that size or smaller in one spot in one or more bores. If you have the nice metalic silver look of good cross hatching these patches will look like someone took took a soft pencil or soot and horizontaly in the bore scratched a shalow diamond shape or oval. It will look like staining almost but no amount of cleaning will remove it. I am not sure if it is more like wear or if it is more like micro welded ring material but it is obvious once you know what to look for. It just looks gray or shadow like. You can only see a little bit of it whent he piston is at BDC but when the piston is out of the bore it is obvious.
Just changed my 92k mile mx-5 to Valvoline 5w-30 Restore and Protect. The cost is similar so it’s worth a try. Also have a 2009 ScionxB coming to roost back home from a daughter and will use the same regiment on it. Good luck I hope something good happens!
My daughter currently has a 2009 scion Xb 160k on the clock. I have been testing out different oils to slow the consumption down. When I was using Mobil 1 the consumption rate was 1.5 qts every 2 weeks. I switched to liqui molly with molygen 5w20 and the consumption went down to about a 0.5 qt every 2 weeks. So I swapped to Royal Purple to see what the difference between the 2 oils. Royal Purple is about the same as the liqui molly consumption rates . I've just done the 2nd oil change with the royal purple so I'm going to see if it's the same. If not I'll use the Valvoline and see if it changes. I used to experience this in my 2014 Lexus then I changed from mobile1 to liqui molly and she burns 0 oil between oil changes now. Same goes for my MDX.
@@henrymatthews9365 to clarify for me, the Miata wasn’t burning oil but I was just wanting to prevent problems down the road. I just passed 3000 miles on that oil and replaced the oil filter to see what it looked like. It was very clean, I was afraid it would be clogged up. The 2009 Scion xb has 225k miles and burns a lot of oil. It is running rough and needed a lot of TLC so I’ve been fixing a lot of stuff. The motor looked pretty sludgy so I used the liqimoly engine flush first off then changed the oil to the VR&P. I will do the piston soak later when I get things running a little better.
Hello Dave! Glad your continuing with the oil burner project, I knew you wouldn't give up that easy! I switched to Valvoline last year 0w20 high mileage in both my Honda's, 2013 and my 2021 Accords and seen improvements in fuel mileage form 28 to 32 on the highway. never got more that 28 before that! The 21 only has 28xxxk and the 13 has 170xxx and still uses only >1QT OIL PER 1000 miles after I did the 505CRO treatment last March. I posted about this also. I also watched the Speed Lake stuf and that where I made a decision to switch to Valvoline oil. If this cleans your engine continue to use Valvoline High Mileage. sold @wally world here 12quarts for $58.00 garage box. That makes it cheaper than most premium oils for 12 quarts. Have a great day my friend!
Esters tend to have a fruity smell, most artificial smells are made from some form of ester. That said it is pure oil, no acetone and a quart is significantly weaker than a quart of HPL EC. This will not result in anything at all, but I look forward to the upload when you try it straight granted at this point I'm extremely confident this motor just needs work done and nothing will work. Remove the valve cover let us see what all these experiments have done to the varnish please.
It is mostly likely too far gone. With all these engines in the early low tension rings era it really depends on HOW The ring got stuck, if it gets stuck shifted to one side the ring will actually burnish away the cross hatch. Even if you rebuild the engine at that point with the new pistons and rings it's too late it will forever burn oil. Eventually the spot will wear down the cylinder wall so much you start losing compression. The Car Care Nut has videos that explain all this as well and he talks about his own experience rebuilding these engines for Toyota under the extended warranty they settled on as he rebuilds one. If the cross hatching was still there it could be rebuilt, if it was not the warranty was a new short block. And to be fair to Toyota they actually provided this coverage while every other maker that was having the exact same issues with low tension rings (Some GM ones grenaded inside their warranty from it) did not give extended coverage. I hope DIY Dave knows all this before going through a mechanical rebuild that's pointless. And the block is not suppose to be punched out and honed, Toyota does not supply oversized pistons for them as they are one time use. You'd have to go aftermarket and it would be completely at your own risk then.
I recall back in the day the IH 466 engines burned oil out of the factory, Chrome rings, hard liners, we were told by IH to use Bon Ami detergent in the intake, then do 3 oil changes in 100 hours, it stopped the burning, but if we didn't dump oil and filter we had bigger issues, bearings.
I have a 2002 camry that was using excessive oil. The oil cap seal seemed to be allowing excessive air surge. It was allowing more oil to get thru the PCV.
I used restore and protect on my mdx(which had a class action lawsuit about oil burning). My oil consumption has decreased from a quart every 1000 miles to half a quart every 3000. I am on my 3rd oil change. I have tried some things similar with no success. This new product worked wonders for me
The Restore & Protect smells like the old Texaco Havoline oil. On another note, i saw a different video about how Toyota fixed their oil consumption problem with new pistons.
That only works if you catch the problem in time and you do not have any bore damage. 99% of people would not even suspect the tell tale signs of bore damage because it is so subtle compared to what most people are used to looking for.
I would be replacing the radiator. When they go that bone colour or fade from black then they have a good chance of cracking and blowing out the top tank quickly.
Lake Speed Jr has been known to say not to mix different oils because some oils have additives that are incompatible with the additives in other oils. Maybe you might not have come across him saying that, but perhaps it might be worth keeping in mind. During summer the 10W-30 oil should be fine instead of 5W-30 oil. You might not want to use the thicker oil in winter, but the winter rating probably won't come into play with summer minimum nighttime temperatures where you are. If it does, then there's something seriously strange going on with the weather.
I have enjoyed 30 episodes, but I came to the party late, which is good because the series is getting more interesting with the Diesel Blue Restore. I am running the R&P in my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I am trying to gain back some power and MPG's lost over the years. So, I am doing one thing at a time and have already gain back some with Shell 91 Nitro, new plugs and had Synthetic oil and filters the entire life of the car. But here at altitude, we battle HP derating by at least 4% per 1000' of altitude and hills all over Denver. I don't know that I am using oil, but it was feeling down on power and definitely MPG's. I am slowly gaining it back. I have at least five more oil changes to go before I switch back to Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage. I am also experimenting with Complete fuel system cleaners that Lake Speed recommends that have PEA in them. Lots of interesting videos and reading based on that. Plus Italian tune-ups when I get the chance to really stretch the legs about as far as it will go. That has made a difference in the past. Love your series, looking forward to the next video.
You vidoes are entertaining, and I have watched several! One thing I would recommend: spend energy on finding the cause of the oil burn since your engine and piston rings are clean enough now. The residual oil on top of piston is something you should track to find where it comes from, and the source of the leak. Your P0420 code indicates your cat has been fouled by oil burning that you may need to replace it. There are quite a few on eBay for around $60, and you can replace it your self. You have nice music and scenic shots in your videos.
My Italian tune up completely fixed oil consumption. Go to the freeway and drive in 4th gear only, if that doesn't do it try 3rd gear. Should release those rings.
I'm in the process of doing this with my 98 Corolla. Previous owner did a deep piston soak and oil change before I took it on a solid hour drive on the PA turnpike through the mountains. Alternating heat and load is the key to getting these things to break up that bake in carbon (also accepting you are replacing that catalytic converter regardless). So much soot coming out of that tailpipe on downshift 😂
I'm starting to think worn valve guides can lead to oil consumption as well. You may want to perform a vacuum gauge test, check the fuel trims (lean), and run a dynamic (running) compression test to check how the engine is breathing. I'm not sure how to check worn valve guides without disassembly (wiggle test.) One article I skimmed suggests filling the crankcase with propane while the purge solenoid, pcv, and breather systems are disabled. A sudden increase in the negative short term fuel trims indicates the seals and guides are allowing oil through. The catch can should be keeping the intake runner low spots free of oil. If they still have oil then it could be oil coming from worn valve guides, in theory. During deceleration the vacuum increase is enough to suck oil past the good valve stem seals. When I looked at the valve stem seal replacement video it looked like the guide, spring, and lifter sit in a tub of oil by design. Dropping a cylinder on the highway could be an intake valve failing to seat, leading to a loss of compression. Update 8/25: There appears to be an oil additive called "Bar's Leaks Oil Seal Engine Oil Burning & Leak Repair", part number OS-1. It claims to work for worn valve guides, harden valve stem seals, oil consumption, and blue smoke from exhaust. The only requirement is that the engine doesn't need to add oil (1qt) more than once per day.
I was going to mention the very video from Oil Geek that you shared. So you' definitely got the science covered there. I got some of Valvoline's Restore and Protect while we were down in the Appalachia's in July. Being that I couldn't get it up here , in my area, at the time. Hope it works well with the cagers. Would be nice if they made something like that for motorcycles too. Looking forward to the results. But I would have been livid with the wife for messing up the whole rebuild time, during the only time, that there is time... say it one more time.
I was surprised to see you watch “oil geek” on UA-cam and you still don’t pre fill your oil filters before installation. He has a great video out about why you should do that and has all the science and oil analysis to back up the claims and debunk old rumors people say not to pre fill the filters.
Hey Dave! It's Blackysan here. I've been following your oil burning experiment series and I'm very sorry to hear that the B12 hasn't been able to help fix your engine. I noticed your motor oil from recent videos that got very dirty with just 300 miles. It's telling me there's a lot of blow-by gas mixed into the oil and makes it dark very quickly. Do u feel any pressure coming out from your oil cap while the engine is running? U can place your hand over it and feel, see if there's wet vapor sticking to your hand as well. If so and very severe? it means your piston wall could have been damaged allowed gas and oil escaped your piston rings. I know u r going to tear up the engine and find out but I have one final experiment to recommend for u to try it out before the engine tears down. My recommendation is to run DIESEL FUEL as motor flush before putting in new oil and filter when u do your oil change. Just putting enough diesel fuel past your bottom dot of your dip stick after draining your old oil then run the engine in idle for 10 mins. U can give a few revs to 2000 - 3000 rpm in between as well but mostly idling then draining the diesel fuel out and replace with new oil filter and oil after. Diesel fuel is a very strong carbon sludge cleaner and it won't hurt anything for just running it for 10 mins. I've been using diesel fuel to clean heavy sludge engines and engine parts for years and haven't given me any problems so far. The reason why I recommended the B12 over the diesel was because of the price of diesel fuel. Since B12 fixed my Scion tC so I don't have to use diesel as a motor flush. I believe the diesel and clean your oil control rings very well because there's a high chance of the oil getting past your rings because of piston wall damage (I suspected but could be wrong). I am 100% sure the diesel can clean out everything over at the oil control rings. Please consider giving it a try and report back. Best regards
Thanks Blackysan. I'll certainly take this into consideration. Thanks for the suggestion ... and for the B12 experiment ... you might already know, but it's one of my most watched videos :-)
My family lives in Greenville, South Carolina, and I never ever seen a blue sky down here they’re always filled with chemtrails. I don’t know why they hit the Carolinas so hard but they do.
That stuff works- far better than you’d expect. Depending on current mileage of your vehicle, I’d STRONGLY recommend changing out your oil filter in about 500 miles, cutting it open & seeing how much gunk from the deposits removed & will collect on the oil filter. Be forewarned: it’ll be A LOT more dirty to the point of being clogged than a filter changed using ‘normal’ oil at OEM intervals (5k miles or whatever). Depending on how dirty the filter is after, say, 500 miles, change it and do it again in 750 or 800 miles and so on.
great vids as always!! soooo VAL ( new) 5:59 R AND PRO. on my 2nd 3000-3500 oci.... went from 1/2 qrt every 400-500... to 700-800 by end of first change! 1500 imto 2nd change! I will update at end of mext change!
OK this third round of restored protect 530 is a little different… I changed a couple 100 miles early at 2800… Because I noticed it was smell of the fuel and it was very black… Shernoff not transparent… And doing its job well from the look at it… I believe the next round I will change it around 2500… The oil consumption was about roughly 7 to 800 w 1/2 a qrt… I noticed on the last let's say five hundred miles ago… That shortened … I put a half a quart at 5: 50 and 1/2 a quart around 500… So perhaps using up the oil slow down the availability of all the additives to stay at that high level of work… I don't know I'm reaching for the brass ring here in a great experience so far definitely working… See you on the next round💪🏻🎉
oh mann. if this oil is really magic as u said, u should be changing oil filter asap. the gunk will clog it and u gonna run no filter at all. edit : btw u can change oil filter without draining oil just gonna loose 1/3 quart
Dave, glad to be back on ye old experiment train. mmmmmm, science. I hate to pee in the punch bowl but I agree with the folks who don't think this oil will work. But I'd love to be wrong. And if you blow the engine or the rebuild fails, I have a really well maintained 2016 Corolla with only 46,000 on the clock that I'm ready to make a good deal on.
I drive here in Western Australia a 1995 Toyota Crown Royal Extra with a 1jzge engine with 78000klms on it or 40000mls , I purchased it from Yokohama Japan as 2nd hand import , I’m also a X Lexus quality controller , so older v6 v8 engines are incredibly reliable, but the v6 is well known for clogging up if not serviced .
I just found this rabbit hole my dad had a 2002 Toyota solara with 300k+ Miles original engine newer transmission tho it’s a 2azfe it does burn oil it it might be the many leaks around it but enjoyed all the steps you’ve taken to try to remedy the problem I hope you can find a easier solution than open heart surgery but if that’s what it takes it’ll be nice if you could find updated parts and rings that will out last the old ones
Dave, I just wanted to share an update on my experience thus far with the "Restore & Protect" in my 1zzfe engine. I'm 1,500 miles into the oil change interval and have topped off with little less that 1/2 quart. In the last oil change interval the engine was averaging 1 quart every 2,000 miles (or maybe even a little worse than that) so I feel like I may actually be seeing some improvement already. Of course it's still a little too early to have any definitive results but it does look promising at this point. Any way, I just wanted to share an update. Can't wait to hear your results with the "Premium Blue Restore".
It’s great oil, but Pennzoil Platinum uses natural gas which has fewer impurities so they can have a low TBN of 5.2 because the base oil is such high quality and has so much more adulterant absorption or nullification capabilities. I was using almost two quarts in about 4,000 miles, after it dropped to about less than 1/2 a quart in almost 5,000. I tried the Ultra Platinum because I wanted to see how clean I could get it and it has a TBN of 7.7 and the base is such good quality it should help clean and also to have extra protection to do a thorough carbon cleaning (which should be done with catalytic converter cleaner in the fuel to reduce the risk of carbon chunks burning holes in the catalyst) and then a can of BG EPR before using the High Mileage Platinum to continue the cleaning while treating the seals a bit too. I swear it runs smoother, has better acceleration, and gets better gas mileage. Evaporation, lubricity, longevity, and film strength are all better than most other oils(watch Project Farm) even much more expensive kinds. Chevron Delo Heavy Duty Full Synthetic can be used in gas engines and is a top tier oil; if you want to try something fool hearty, at least don’t go so far so fast and try some of that first
Fun fact: Dogs are great at reading body language so it's pretty easy to teach them sign language for specific tasks. One of my rescues is deaf but she knows about a dozen signs. Eg: Meal time, bed time, time for a walk, time for a drive, I love you, sit, stay, lay down, etc... I think she reads lips too. And, oh yeah, the Corolla is back!!!!
I’ve been having good luck keeping the oil usage to a minimum i my wife’s 2009 Rav4 by doing an every-other Berryman’s soak on cylinders 3/4 and adding 1 oz of Berryman’s to the 0w20 oil with each 5k mi oil change.
From engine oil, to mutts...to engine oil! Shell fuel + Valvoline = Brand new engine!!! Btw, beautiful place where you live at, sir! FINALLY!: ALWAYS, ALWAYS SHAKE, SHAKE, SHAKE THAT OIL CONTAINER!!! Absolutely necessary to mix in well the various additives that settle at the bottom!!!
Hi Dave . My wife has a Corolla exactly like yours. The only difference is that hers is Automatic. We also have the same problem with the oil consumption and I´ve been following all the videos and waiting for the final solution. Thanks in advance for such a fantastic job. However, my concern today is about the temperature my engine is working on. We have had this car for 12 years and as I remember, the cooling fans used to turn on when the temperature was about 92-93 C (199 F). I have noticed since about a year ago that the fans are kicking off when the ECT is 97 C (206 F). I changed the ECT sensor and no change, I´ve checked all the system and wiring and everything seems to be in order. I´ve performed several tests and nothing irregular found. Additionally, the coolant in the reservoir started to bubble at 96 C (204 F). I changed the radiator cap for OEM (0.9) but no solution. I even tried a different computer and no changes. Then I bought a new radiator cap (1.1) and at least it stopped the bubbling, but the fans are still turning on at 97C. I just wanted to know what temperature your car´s fans turn on. And any additional comments on this topic will be highly appreciated. Thanks so much. Ricardo from Bogotá, Colombia
Great content ! I have been following this show for a long time, hoping, that you counld find a way to fix my oil burning peugeot 308.But I thought I cant wait any longer two month ago, so I sent that EP6 engine back to the factory where it been manufactured and give it a overhaul.
Premium Blue Restore has the same approach as HPL oils just high ester, granted HPL also uses alkylated naphthalene. Esters is a type of synthetic oil which have high polarity, and are kinda a natural solvent but very expensive. The issue with them is they tend to reduce the effectiveness of anti-wear additives significantly at high concentration (30%+ of the base oil) since they both work by attaching themselves to metal. Carbon/sludge also attaches itself to metal as well and really thats half the charm it out competes sludge/carbon for bare metal.
What would be a good oil to use to free the rings on pistons in a high rpm motorcycle? I wish restore and protect from valvoline would be releases in 20w50 or 10w40 weights and also be wet clutch safe. But in the meantime, any suggestions? Or maybe additives?
Hi love your content, yesterday I watched a UA-cam vid by A Toolbox. The author stated that he used Vavoline Restore and Protect and it clogged his oil filter after 500 miles. FYI
Use a 5/40 or 15/40 vis oil , your engine has at least double the bearing and piston clearance at 200k miles than it did when it was new. This is one of the reasons they make higher vis oils!
I thought one of your Toyota videos showed cylinder wall damage ? That would cause excessive oil consumption. But it will be interesting to see if oil rings sticking is most of the oil consumption problem.
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the filter and cut it apart after a few hundred miles and make sure it isn't clogging up. Curious to see how it goes.
I feel like I've watched enough of the DIY Dave channel to get invited to Thanksgiving at his house.
Lake speed jr has really opened my eyes on oil additives. Not gonna waste money on them anymore like i have for years
Except for fuel additives. I'm doing the fuel injector cleaning because i've removed injectors and cleaned them and it does work. Oil additives are a real joke.
@@billyjack8119 Great choice.
Helix Ultra 0w30 in the case and Amsoil Diesel fuel additive.
The fuel additive is what you need.
@@billyjack8119 Use only fuel additives (gasoline) containing PEA every 3-5 thousand miles. Most total fuel system cleaners contain PEA. For diesel, Howes Diesel Defender during warm months and Howes Diesel Treatment in cold climates for anti-gel.
My son has a 2014 Volvo S60 that has the notorious oil burning piston rings. It was burning about a quart every 1,750 miles. We just completed the first full run of Restore & Protect and the last top off was only 8 ounces in 1,196 miles. Just changed it at an OCI of about 4,200 miles. So it went from burning a quart in 1,750 miles to the equivalent of about 12 ounces in 1,750 miles. I'm actually shocked in a good way, and even if we don't get any further improvement, it's a huge win. The stuff actually works
That's awesome :-) Thanks for posting ... and please keep us informed of any more improvement!
4 or 5 cyl?
@@foojub6907 It's the 5 cylinder motor
I was just gonna post about my 2015 Volvo V60, I have mostly solved my oil burning with b12 piston soak though. I kind of want to try this now
@@KarlwinsFive That's good to know. I was going to try the piston soak but then heard about the Restore and Protect. Thought the oil changes would be easier. So far, so good. 👍
Congratulations to your kids.
Its refreshing to see a new corolla video. Can't hardly wait for the results.
Thanks Joseph :-)
Tried it in mine and it does work. 4000 miles into the restore and protect oil and oil burning went from a quart per 1000 miles to 1 quart per 2400 miles. Hoping for continuing improvements on the subsequent oil changes.
Good to hear!
I've recently been switching everyone's vehicles I work on with Valvoline Restore and Protect. I actually switched my buddy's 2009 2.4 Camry to the new formula yesterday. All I can say is it has made a difference in everyone's vehicles. One of the most noticeable differences is it smooths out rough-sounding engines after one or two short drives. My buddy's Camry has the famous VVT rattle at startup, and it's burning oil. So far, the VVT startup rattle was a lot quieter already-kinda nuts. The Oil Geek Guy has some in-depth reviews, and ever since he did the engine oil expiration video, I always make sure to give my oil a good shake before pouring to ensure all the additive packs are mixed well and not sitting at the bottom of the container. You've got yourself a new sub; looking forward to more reviews and this final review cliffhanger. 😂👍🏻
Good info ... thanks for that!
The brief, variable valve timing clicking after a cold start in my girl friend's 2014 Honda CRV is now gone. The car has about 126,000 miles on it now. The first oil change with Vavoline's Restore and Protect got too dirty after 2,400 miles, which worried me. So I changed it.
The car is now about a quarter of the way through its second change (7,500 mile oil life). The CRV used to use 1/2 quart of oil in 7,000 miles. Now the oil use is undetectable on the dipstick after 1,500 miles. 🤷♂️
It probably is a good idea to keep an eye on the oil after starting to use Restore and Protect for the first time in a high mileage engine. It gets black unexpectedly fast. In my low mileage Toyota, the Restore and Protect darkened normally, so I changed it at 5,000 miles.
Agreed in fact I bought a pack of oil filters to replace after 100 miles, 500 miles. From what I’ve been reading it tends to clog up the filter initially.
@@chriswyma145100% agree. I had to get a tire rotation and the shop checked the oil and they called me because they were concerned how dark the oil was.
@thestets63 Hmmm, interesting. I have extra filters to replace during my initial R&P use. I think I will be using one of my prepaid Blackstone Lab analysis if & when my oil goes dark. Most likely I will change it, too.
Thing we DO KNOW is gas engine oil doesn't have same suspension properties the diesel engine oil has. Oil filters micron capture is ~30. There will be substantial amounts of garbage in dark oil; what effect on bearings would occur if dark oil is used for remainder of OCInterval. I will try to remember to post The lab result.
I'm anxious to see your results as I too have been considering the Valvoline blue restore. I drive Subarus and boxers are hard to piston soak. Currently I've found the very best piston soak involves having the engine out and doing a low and slow soak. It involves removing the oil pan and spark plugs. Rotate crank until TDC with valves closed on one cylinder. Fill that cylinder with Lucas oil (or motor honey). Put it's sparkplug in so as to cap the cylinder. Rotate engine upside down and generously fill the backside of just that cylinder's piston with B-12. It will not drain away through the rings because the cylinder below is filled with heavy oil. Leave soak for 24hrs. Next, catch the B-12 as you slowly rotate back upright. Now remove spark plug and drain the cylinder of heavy oil by flipping back upside down for a while. Rotate next cylinder to TDC valves closed and repeat all steps of the daylong procedure for each cylinder one at a time. It's a long process, but the B-12 being unable to drain off and the fact the soaking is actually at the oil drain holes of oil rings makes all the difference. Also, there is no danger to rubber seals. NOTE:If cam shaft is reasonably removeable then all cylinders could be done at once as all valves would remain closed.
Now pour some fuel or solvent in all cylinders and drain them again to remove the residue of the heavy oil. Put in clean or preferably new spark plugs. Now, put oil pan back on and cap any openings of block, then put in oil and rotate the engine in stand 90 degrees at a time slowly and allow oil to seep into all bearing surfaces that have washed out from the proceedure. Reinstall engine. Change filter after first 500 miles as carbon bits will be weakened and broken up and come out rapidly.
Interesting process!
2001 OBS V-8 5.3l Chevy Silverado 224,000 I had 1000 miles on my Val Restore Protect [ Lifter ] no longer clicking at start up, plus im getting alittle power ] notice it driving over the Rocky Mts on a non stop 500mile trip across Colorado. Going to changer out oil at 2,000miles and 5,000 on the next 3 oil changes using This GREAT Product.
It's amazing how you can stretch out 5 minutes of content. In to 22mins! lol
Thank God we can fast forward
Has to be over 20mins for best results with the algorithm.
It's allot of hard work setting up the camera and editing, keeping the content interesting.
A day in the life of Dave.
Very interesting.
That's Entertainment.
I love this series! Dave tries it so you dont have to! I have a 2001 corolla with 135k that started using about a quart every 2.5 to 3k. Two berrymans flush (not a soak) reduced it to bout a third of a quart per 3k. With all you've done i suspect you had a groove worn in the bore even before you started which is why nothing has really worked. When you bore scoped it way back when you could see the shadow on the thrust side of the bore. Thats the groove im talking about. I suspect the damage was done way before you even got the car! Youve managed to still get 200k out of it which is a testiment to 3k oil changes keeping it kind of where it was at or a little better! Keep up the good work!
Thanks :-) that is a definite possibility.
I am using R&P 5W30 in a 2006 Toyota RAV4 with a 2AZ-FE right now. When purchased at 131k miles it was burning 1QT every 300 miles on highway, and 1QT every 600 miles around town.
Did a 24-hour B12 Chemtool piston soak to decarbon/free up the stuck oil rings, then let the engine idle with 2 quarts of Chemtool that ran past the rings during the soak for a bit, and then a short OCI with a cheap oil, then put in Valvoline R&P 5W-30. But I won't know if it primarily benefitted from Chemtool soak, or R&P, or both. This 2AZ-FE has documented OCI of every 5000 miles for its entire life, all the way to 135k, with most being done at a Toyota dealership. The longest documented OCI ever was 6k miles.
Just took a highway trip, and the results were amazing. It consumed 1/4th QT over 819 miles. Before the Chemtool and R&P oil, it would have consumed 2.75 quarts of oil on that distance. Using 800 miles per 1/4th QT, that's 3200 miles per quart of oil. An improvement of 5X.
I am hoping if the Valvoline Restore and Protect does its job over time - it will at minimum keep the stuck ring deposit problem from returning, and might even see some improvement on consumption after 4 OCI's.
6/2/24 - 135832 miles
B12 piston soak for 24 hours with manual cylinder rotation
Run engine at idle for 5 minutes (with the residual B12 Chemtool in the crankcase, 2 cans worth)
Drained oil, and changed with Kirkland 5W-30 and Wix XP filter.
6/30/24 - 135860 miles
Changed oil and filter to remove any residual Chemtool and any debris that might have come loose from the Chemtool circulating in the system
Oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 with a Wix XP filter
Installed new spark plugs - NGK iridium.
7/23/24 - 136149 miles
Checked oil. No movement on dipstick, still touching full mark - 289 miles since oil change, all around town local driving.
8/3/2024 - 136314 miles
Started 819 mile highway trip. Checked oil - level still touching full mark.
8/3/2024 - 137133 miles
Completed 819 mile highway trip. Oil is 3/4 full between the marks, it consumed 1/4 quart on the trip. Did not bother topping up.
Excellent info!!! Thank you for documenting... and any future updates!!!!!
These logs are much appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 11/25/2024 - 135389 miles. So, it has been driven 2529 miles since the piston soak and oil change. No oil has been added. It is currently right between the two marks on the dipstick (according to him), so around a half quart low. It is about to make a 1000 mile trip home, so I will have more data when it gets here. If the current consumption holds, it is burning 1 quart every 5000 miles which is fantastic. I will likely do another oil change with Valvoline R&P 5W30 over the holidays before he takes it back to college.
Ugh! A cliffhanger! Glad to see you testing this option.
I've been following this from day one, can't wait to see if it works, trying to get my oil burner fixed or at least better. Keeping my fingers crossed this works 🤞
Thanks for hanging in there!!
The Restore and Protect is incredible stuff. My first couple of oil changes looked like complete garbage, but fuel economy is up and oil consumption is down! 4.7L Jeep engine.
Greetings from your neighbors here in Greer, SC! Appreciate all your tests and video work! I watch Lake Speed too.
You keep going Dave! I gave up and sold *my* oil burning car.
Thanks ... but now I feel like I let you down. :-(
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Not at all! I’ll still apply these lessons learned to other GDI cars.
Great video. I was missing not seeing something new. Hope you are well. I appreciate your channel and all what you do. Greetings from Southern California
Thanks Cesar :-)
I have 2008 Camry it was burning 1 quarter every 300 miles I did berryman b12 chemtool now I drove 700 miles car burn less than 1/2 quarter with valvolin restore and protect.
For me very good success
I did b12 inside catalytic converter now car smooth
That's awesome. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for bringing us along, Dave! I really hope You can solve the oil burning issues. I just bought a '99 corolla 5spd with 173k mi. from it's original owner. Thankfully, He kept it well maintained, so it's never leaked, or burn oil. When I got it home, I immediately ran the dynamic engine restoration system through it. But I took it a step further: For the first step, I drove it for an hr. both on freeways, & city roads, and driving it under the same conditions for 30mins. during the 2nd step bringing the revs all throughout the rev range(up to 5k at some points) during both phases of the flushing process. Thankfully, the flushing chemicals drained out with only a small amount of color change. Finished up the oil change with a toyota OEM filter, & Pennzoil High Mileage platinum synthetic. I then replaced the Transmission fluid with Amsoil synthetic api GL-4 75-90 along with a major tune up. It runs & shifts even better now! It still drives like new. Eventually, I plan on replacing the factory oil pan with an aftermarket oil pan which not only has better baffling than the OE pan, but will also bump up the capacity by 1.3qts. bringing the total oil capacity to 5.2qts. I love that little '99. IDC that it only generates 122bhp, the fact that it's so light compared to other cars on the road makes it so much fun to drive😆😆😆 I'm never getting a rid of that little gem. I also have an '02 camry with the 2AZ-FE engine(243k mi.), and it was burning a small amount when I bought it back in 2020. I did the exact same procedure with the camry as I just did with the corolla when I flushed the camry earlier this year. Now it only burns oil when I really lean into it, but when I drive it gently like a normal person, It doesn't burn at all. The camry also drives like new, having regained roughly 90% of it's original power output since the BG flush.
May your Corolla give you many years of pleasant drives!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks Dave! You should try the GL-4 75-90 Synthetic Manual Trans fluid by Amsoil. I got them in qt sized bags, and it was so much easier to fill the Trans. My corolla shifts so good after changing it over. The bags cost a little more than the bottles, but it's worth the comvenience
In twenty sixteen my 01 Isuzu 3.5 developed a oil consumption issue, after looking into it was very likely clogged oil return holes in the oil control ring lands, Isuzu was aware of the problem and had updated the pistons with larger return holes, Jasper rebuilt engines had them seemed to resolve the issue, had I known about this oil I would have certainly tried it, looking forward to the next episode
I recently bought a 2008 Rav4 with a 2AZ-FE engine that was using about a quart every 1000 miles. First I replaced the PCV valve it was definitely in need of replacement but it still burned oil afterwards. Then I drove it a bunch and on a particular steep hill around here I stood on it pretty hard a few times as I drove though and it seems to have stopped burning oil (Hard pulls under load can help free rings up aka "The italian tuneup" now I have Restore and Protect in it to see if it burns oil anymore and if it stops hopefully keep it from starting again.
Update 11/20/2024: Still burning oil but it hasn't gotten worse. Only 1700 miles into the first OCI with it. Getting up to 31mpg on the highway so it's still got great compression and hasn't scored the cylinder walls. Oil consumption absolutely will go up if you have a lot of high engine speed deceleration events (stop and go driving, lots of downhill coasting) because with the throttle plate closed cylinder vacuum will pull more oil up past the rings.
What I enjoy most about your videos. Wow, how I miss South Carolina
im from europe but i miss it when i watch his videos🥺
From EU also... It's so beautiful... I would just drive and drive.
Glad you like it ... I always wonder if I'm putting too much road footage in.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY No no dude... wow America.
Great informative video. Short runs that do not allow the engine to completely heat up is the enemy of an engine.
Finally! I agree with a commenter a few months back who said you should consider a road trip to the Car Care Nut in Chicago. Not close but there's no one better on YT when it comes to understanding and diagnosing issues with new and old Toyota engines 👍🏻 (Also would make for a great cross-over episode 😉)
👍I love the Car Care Nut.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY same 👍🏻. Also thought I'd share - I drive an 00's Corolla and put Restore & Protect in it 500 miles ago. At first I thought it was placebo, but I am now 100% positive I've got maybe 10-15% power back when accelerating. Kinda shocked how quickly I saw a change. Am gonna open up my filter after 2k. Food for thought - keep up the great vids 🤘🏻
@@ericvannielsen Great info. Please keep us posted!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY if you watch his vids you'd know that your engine needs to be replaced. The cylinder walls and piston rings are gone. Wake up and smell the end of making $$ on these ridiculous videos giving people false hope.
Dave, I'm so excited that you decided to do another experiment. I'm looking forward to the results on this one. In the mean time I'm going to try the "Restore & Protect" in my 1ZZFE engine. I'm like you though, it'll take me 2 years to complete the full 4 oil change interval cycle. However, if it actually does make a difference it will be worth it. Can't wait to see your results in part 2.
Excellent info! ... Thank you for documenting and sharing updates!!!
I think you’re going to burn off the cheap oil. The Blue should be 100% in order to get the cleaning results. Note: it can clean so well as to clog the filter. But just change the filter and continue to the prescribed mileage. All the best to you!
Yes. As per Cummins and Valvoline, you're supposed to use 100% Restore and add Restore to top off for one oil change interval. Cummins warned us that it won't work properly if we mixed in regular oil to top off.
No way it'll clog anything after this guy did 59 oil changes and a BG Flush treatment. That engine is probably pristine inside other than the plugged up oil rings
We used the old Restore from the Cummins dealer to clean the rings of our Cumms ISX and it worked for the consumption. The issue with the Toyota Corolla is the rings will stick and score up the cylinder walls. The only way these can be fixed is new rings and hone/bore the cylinder if it's bad enough and use oversize pistons. I wish I were wrong, though as I hope it will fix your problem.
Thanks for the info Chuck!
Thank you for all of your experiments and great videos! I have a 2006 Honda CRV using a quart every 500 miles and am going down the path of troubleshooting it. It is common in that car. Your videos are very helpful for me. I have only watched about 5 of the 30 videos so far, including the last one. I think you made some progress, but haven't seen which one did it. My car is getting an OEM Honda PCV today as a first step.
Thanks for watching, Bradley. ... Yes, so far the Berryman's had the best results if you want to check that out. All the best with your CRV!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thank you! I will check out the Berrymans video
I watched the berrymans videos and others after those. I think it worked mostly because of the method used for the berrymans test. And I am sure it is a good product. But you didn’t use the same method with the products after that. However, maybe you have gotten the best gain out of that first berrymans test and you wont see anything better. You got quite a good gain and your oil usage now isnt that abnormal. Your videos are excellent and methods good. Very much appreciated thank you!
My 2012 scion XB died ( with a 2AZFE engine ) that was burning oil while I was waiting for your results. The engine blew up. Lost compression on one cylinder and it wasn’t worth fixing. Bought a new Camry hybrid 2024. It’s wonderful and I’ll maintain from new!
Out of curiosity, how many miles? I have a 2004 Camry with the same engine. It has about 210k miles. It does have a few small leaks, it loses some oil that way, but it bizarrely enough doesn't burn/consume oil enough to need topping up between changes. I wonder if the newer 2AZ-FEs and their lower tension rings are all the culprit.
Sorry to hear about the Scion ... but congrats on the new Camry. May it run long and trouble free!
@@MattExzy What happens is that eventually the stuck control ring and can stuck shifted over and it will wear away at the cylinder wall. First the oil burning will go up to about the level DIY Dave here is burning oil then it will wear it so much compression is lost. These are not machinable blocks, they are not meant to be punched and honed. If the cross hatch was worn away in a spot the warranty repair was a new short block instead of piston, rings, and squirter replacement.
I thought it was so awesome when Tribologist Lake mentioned you in a video. He has opened my eyes to the progression of oil science (and DIY mixing additives). IIRC, Lake was the individual who presented Costco's Kirkland oil analysis that showed variances.
Tsb for premium blue restore has you change to a specific oil filter and change it multiple times during the use of that oil. FYI
Thanks for the heads up.
Beautiful love the historic places. Probably the first video on UA-cam that does something like this love it. Great video. Glad you used this oil.
Much appreciated!
Great work, Dave! Greetings from 🇰🇪 Kenyan. Same problem with my 2003 1 zz engine.
Thanks! Hopefully we'll get it figured out!
Im just getttin ready to do this experiment with my 98 Corolla as well. I know your rolling the dice on your Cat, but Ive already put this on my maintenance list so its an acceptable risk. That Cummins Gen 2 is some powerful decarboning Mojo.
The only chemical based cleansers after that are either DMSO or an EDTA based cleaner (Stihl Decarbonizer was the easiest to get retail but they discontinued it because of the mild life damaging properties)
I would like to share an experience I had with one of my long distance interstate trucks, here in Australia. When I bought my Mack new in 1999, I ran 20,000km oil changes and oil samples, on the branded Mack Bulldog (Castrol made) engine oil (mineral 15W40). At about 300,000 km the engine was beginning to use about 3 liters ever 3500km ( a weeks work). My application, was 65 ton B-double, each km, so the truck was high load application. I switched my oil brand to Cummins Premium Blue 15W40 mineral engine oil, and oil consumption dropped dramatically, down to 1 liter per 3500km. Had similar experiences with other vehicles from new. Worst engine oil consumption I had, was a second hand V8 Mack engine, that had 1.5 million km's and it was using 20 liters every 1000km. When it was pulled down for rebuild, it had every piston ring broken and 4 broken head studs (over 4 cylinder heads) and all the valve guides were shot, and the turbocharger was passing oil through its seal.
Wooo the saga continues! Congratulations to the continuing success of your happy family
The Yamaha Ring Free (Yamalube, whatever it was called), did such an outstanding job cleaning the combustion chamber/piston tops, that I don't imagine this Valvoline Premium Blue Restore, will do much better, regarding carbon deposits.
But I'm not really sure what the varying theories would be.
I guess that there is oil being squirted on the underside of the pistons (and cylinder walls), and that it is possible the VPBR has some chemical in it, which will better-clean those piston rings, than the other prior oil additives. (Yamaha Ring Free only comes to mind, because it is one of the most-successful visual treatments that I can recall in this series)
Maybe someone could speculate about oil drainback passageways opening more, or something.
I don't remember if other "flush" products in the Corolla have (visually) removed much carbon (became black after the oil change interval).
I don't really remember or understand the theory regarding what area(s) VPBR would target:
-Generally camshaft-area sludge (I think you see a lot of this in specific car models, or when people leave oil in their car for tens of thousands of miles)
-Internal oil passageways? Oil squirters? Oil lubrication holes (where oil comes out to touch bearings)?
-Pistons/piston rings, maybe valve faces/seats/stem seals (I guess it can touch the backside of valves via the intake manifold/PCV)
It'll be interesting to see how it performs, regardless of the layman theory. I think I am still ranking DMSO at the top of the mountain, regarding "get black stuff out of engines fast+cheap" (whether a good idea or not, who's to say). But that is my current expertise from reading a few hours of internet posts :D
Long live the Corolla!
I have a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0L with 317k miles on it. I've put nearly 200k of those miles on it myself. It's always lost a bit of oil between oil changes, but as of the past year it's been using a lot of oil, even after fixing all the oil leaks. It was nearly a quart every 500 miles, and I change my oil religiously with full synthetic. I've used everything from pennzoil ultra platinum to Rotella T6, anything that flows well cold and tops the wear tests. I've also tried Marvel Mystery Oil here and there before oil changes. Under the valve cover is spotless. However, it was still losing oil.
I am on my first oil change with Valvoline Restore and Protect, and I must say I am so impressed with the oil. By the third trip, I noticed something different, there was a lot more pep while accelerating up the on ramp on my trip to work, and the engine was sooo smooth running. I could pass cars with much less effort. Once I needed to fill up, at about 350 miles, I checked the oil, it was so clean compared to normal, still golden and clear, but it also had only used about 1/3rd of a quart! I topped it off later and about 600 miles later it's only used 1/3rd of a quart again! Im about to get to the 1500 mile mark and I am hopeful I can get it down to about 1/3rd quart every 1000 miles, or even better. I expected to not see any differences until at least 2 oil changes or so in, since it claims to take 4, but halfway through the first one and It's already done more than I could have hoped for! I'm definitely sold on this oil, and I'm excited to see how it does as the miles go on!
Great to hear! Please keep us posted!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I just went on a 1200 mile trip last night and here's the report so far. The 600 miles for every 1/3rd qt seems to be holding steady. After 1200 miles of highway driving, I used 2/3rd of a qt. So it's looking like I can go 1800 miles before needing to add a quart, which is much better! All the external leaks are fixed but I still need to do valve stem seals. I have the 1200 mile drive back on Saturday, so I'll give an update on how it's doing then!
I changed the oil before driving back (3k miles on the first oil change). The return trip used 1/3rd of a quart in 1200 miles! I would call that fixed!
@@reigndown Sounds good!
Oils designed for diesel engines have ZDDP, an additive that acts as a corrosion inhibitor and a lubrication enhancer. It was common in heavier gasoline engine oils prior to catalytic converters. However, this additive can ruin catalytic converters, which is likely why Valvoline doesn't recommend it for gasoline engines.
Dave!!!!! We have the same car, manual tranny and all. 120k miles on mine, but mine was a city driven car. Burns quart every 550 miles, I sure hope this is works as a band aid!
My 2001 Rolla was severely neglected when I bought it. I was the 5th owner with 179,000 miles on it. It burned a quart per 1000 miles. 4000 miles into my restore and protect oil change it now burns 1 quart in 2400 miles. The stuff works and I hope to see continuing improvement with the next 3 oil changes.
@@totallyrandomstuffandrevie9609 How many oil filter changes did you do in between? The oil filter is quite small, so I feel like it would not be a bad idea to change it a few times while running that oil in the engine.
My 05 Infiniti FX45 has eaten a buttload of oil over the last five years. I've used Amsoil, RP, Schaeffer's, etc, all high-end boutique-style oils and none of them helped clean up the oil control rings.
So Motor Oil Geek informed me about Valvoline specialty oil "Restore" but I couldn't find any, so I ran a cycle of Valvoline Premium Blue and consumption started slowing down. Current oil in the sump is Restore & Protect. Oil consumption appears to have completely ceased. I haven't had to add any oil over the last month of driving, and fuel economy improved slightly. The car's running better than ever.
Nice!!
I've run Schaeffers Supreme 9000 in three cars and I believe you have to use it before the problems start. My current daily has almost 157k on it, and has run Schaeffers from 1800 miles ( basically I broke it in on the factory oil, then switched. I got the car new with 32 miles on it and except for one change Schaeffers is all it had ). Never used oil, immaculate on the inside.
Valvaline restore needs multiple oil changes to take full effect. Its also good to open the oil filter to check for sludge build up, you might have to change the filter first time used as after 500 to 1000 miles depending on how bad the engine is. I always like to have my oil below the top line it's better to have low oil levels then high..
Hey thanks for the shout out. Look forward to seeing the results. I'm almost 2k miles in on using the Valvoline R&P. Still too soon to say there's been any discernible improvement. As I recall the Valvoline tech in the Motoroil Geek video mentioned it takes around 90hrs engine running time to see improvement.
Please keep us posted!
F I WATCHED THIS CHANNEL LIKE A TV SHOW FROM EPISODE 7 TO 30 IN LESS THAN 6 HOURS!!! LOTS OF INFORMATION COMING THRU DAVE AND COMMENTS. I APPRECIATE IT.
Wow! ... Your dedication is much appreciated :-)
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Very grateful, i was searching for my own about oil leakage, and i found 2 products that i'll try my self: Marvel Mystery Oir and ATP 205 reseal, then i think ill do some ceratec, i will aplly in small amounts to see how it reacts with engine. CHEERS! THANKS FOR SHARING!
It wont help for long if it helps at all. After everything you have ran through this engine your engine is as clean as it will ever be short of tearing it apart hand cleaning with solvents and brushes.
The problem is that the oil consumption issue was not caught soon enough. If it goes on too long or the previous owner did oil changes that where too far apart it damages the bores near the bottom of the rings travel. So even if you clean the ring groves in the piston you only get a temp. improvment because the damage to the bore has already been done.
You can have great looking cross hatching but you will see dark shadow like area's inthe bore just the very top of it can be seen witht he pistons in the engine. If you have ever scene those penny rolling/pressing machines at fairs and museums and such they will be patches that size or smaller in one spot in one or more bores.
If you have the nice metalic silver look of good cross hatching these patches will look like someone took took a soft pencil or soot and horizontaly in the bore scratched a shalow diamond shape or oval. It will look like staining almost but no amount of cleaning will remove it. I am not sure if it is more like wear or if it is more like micro welded ring material but it is obvious once you know what to look for. It just looks gray or shadow like. You can only see a little bit of it whent he piston is at BDC but when the piston is out of the bore it is obvious.
If that's the case, maybe he should try that drag strip old timers trick of putting that abrasive cleaning powder down the spark plug holes?
Just changed my 92k mile mx-5 to Valvoline 5w-30 Restore and Protect. The cost is similar so it’s worth a try. Also have a 2009 ScionxB coming to roost back home from a daughter and will use the same regiment on it. Good luck I hope something good happens!
I hope it works for you ... please let us know if it does!
My daughter currently has a 2009 scion Xb 160k on the clock. I have been testing out different oils to slow the consumption down. When I was using Mobil 1 the consumption rate was 1.5 qts every 2 weeks. I switched to liqui molly with molygen 5w20 and the consumption went down to about a 0.5 qt every 2 weeks. So I swapped to Royal Purple to see what the difference between the 2 oils. Royal Purple is about the same as the liqui molly consumption rates . I've just done the 2nd oil change with the royal purple so I'm going to see if it's the same. If not I'll use the Valvoline and see if it changes. I used to experience this in my 2014 Lexus then I changed from mobile1 to liqui molly and she burns 0 oil between oil changes now. Same goes for my MDX.
@@henrymatthews9365 to clarify for me, the Miata wasn’t burning oil but I was just wanting to prevent problems down the road. I just passed 3000 miles on that oil and replaced the oil filter to see what it looked like. It was very clean, I was afraid it would be clogged up.
The 2009 Scion xb has 225k miles and burns a lot of oil. It is running rough and needed a lot of TLC so I’ve been fixing a lot of stuff. The motor looked pretty sludgy so I used the liqimoly engine flush first off then changed the oil to the VR&P. I will do the piston soak later when I get things running a little better.
Hello Dave! Glad your continuing with the oil burner project, I knew you wouldn't give up that easy! I switched to Valvoline last year 0w20 high mileage in both my Honda's, 2013 and my 2021 Accords and seen improvements in fuel mileage form 28 to 32 on the highway. never got more that 28 before that! The 21 only has 28xxxk and the 13 has 170xxx and still uses only >1QT OIL PER 1000 miles after I did the 505CRO treatment last March. I posted about this also. I also watched the Speed Lake stuf and that where I made a decision to switch to Valvoline oil. If this cleans your engine continue to use Valvoline High Mileage. sold @wally world here 12quarts for $58.00 garage box. That makes it cheaper than most premium oils for 12 quarts. Have a great day my friend!
Thanks and all the best to you Rod:-)
Esters tend to have a fruity smell, most artificial smells are made from some form of ester.
That said it is pure oil, no acetone and a quart is significantly weaker than a quart of HPL EC.
This will not result in anything at all, but I look forward to the upload when you try it straight granted at this point I'm extremely confident this motor just needs work done and nothing will work.
Remove the valve cover let us see what all these experiments have done to the varnish please.
By the likes I'd say a lot of folks agree with you!
It is mostly likely too far gone. With all these engines in the early low tension rings era it really depends on HOW The ring got stuck, if it gets stuck shifted to one side the ring will actually burnish away the cross hatch. Even if you rebuild the engine at that point with the new pistons and rings it's too late it will forever burn oil. Eventually the spot will wear down the cylinder wall so much you start losing compression.
The Car Care Nut has videos that explain all this as well and he talks about his own experience rebuilding these engines for Toyota under the extended warranty they settled on as he rebuilds one. If the cross hatching was still there it could be rebuilt, if it was not the warranty was a new short block. And to be fair to Toyota they actually provided this coverage while every other maker that was having the exact same issues with low tension rings (Some GM ones grenaded inside their warranty from it) did not give extended coverage. I hope DIY Dave knows all this before going through a mechanical rebuild that's pointless. And the block is not suppose to be punched out and honed, Toyota does not supply oversized pistons for them as they are one time use. You'd have to go aftermarket and it would be completely at your own risk then.
I recall back in the day the IH 466 engines burned oil out of the factory, Chrome rings, hard liners, we were told by IH to use Bon Ami detergent in the intake, then do 3 oil changes in 100 hours, it stopped the burning, but if we didn't dump oil and filter we had bigger issues, bearings.
I have a 2002 camry that was using excessive oil. The oil cap seal seemed to be allowing excessive air surge. It was allowing more oil to get thru the PCV.
I used restore and protect on my mdx(which had a class action lawsuit about oil burning). My oil consumption has decreased from a quart every 1000 miles to half a quart every 3000. I am on my 3rd oil change. I have tried some things similar with no success. This new product worked wonders for me
Good info. Thanks for sharing!!
What's your oil change interval? You're on the 3rd one?
@@miltechmoto 3/4000 miles
Gonna be using it on my 2012 3.7L TL next oil change! Hoping for similar results.
Restore and Protect seems promising.
Also, for your engine codes - use Cataclean 👍
I love visiting these older small towns
The Restore & Protect smells like the old Texaco Havoline oil. On another note, i saw a different video about how Toyota fixed their oil consumption problem with new pistons.
That only works if you catch the problem in time and you do not have any bore damage. 99% of people would not even suspect the tell tale signs of bore damage because it is so subtle compared to what most people are used to looking for.
I would be replacing the radiator. When they go that bone colour or fade from black then they have a good chance of cracking and blowing out the top tank quickly.
Honey!!! Dave is back 🥲
😊
Lake Speed Jr has been known to say not to mix different oils because some oils have additives that are incompatible with the additives in other oils. Maybe you might not have come across him saying that, but perhaps it might be worth keeping in mind.
During summer the 10W-30 oil should be fine instead of 5W-30 oil. You might not want to use the thicker oil in winter, but the winter rating probably won't come into play with summer minimum nighttime temperatures where you are. If it does, then there's something seriously strange going on with the weather.
I have enjoyed 30 episodes, but I came to the party late, which is good because the series is getting more interesting with the Diesel Blue Restore. I am running the R&P in my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. I am trying to gain back some power and MPG's lost over the years. So, I am doing one thing at a time and have already gain back some with Shell 91 Nitro, new plugs and had Synthetic oil and filters the entire life of the car. But here at altitude, we battle HP derating by at least 4% per 1000' of altitude and hills all over Denver. I don't know that I am using oil, but it was feeling down on power and definitely MPG's. I am slowly gaining it back. I have at least five more oil changes to go before I switch back to Valvoline Extended Performance High Mileage. I am also experimenting with Complete fuel system cleaners that Lake Speed recommends that have PEA in them. Lots of interesting videos and reading based on that. Plus Italian tune-ups when I get the chance to really stretch the legs about as far as it will go. That has made a difference in the past.
Love your series, looking forward to the next video.
You vidoes are entertaining, and I have watched several! One thing I would recommend: spend energy on finding the cause of the oil burn since your engine and piston rings are clean enough now. The residual oil on top of piston is something you should track to find where it comes from, and the source of the leak. Your P0420 code indicates your cat has been fouled by oil burning that you may need to replace it. There are quite a few on eBay for around $60, and you can replace it your self. You have nice music and scenic shots in your videos.
I put shell rotella T6 5w40 or 10w30 in my 02 is300 and is250 no issues, if anything it protects better with the extra zinc and phosphorus
Be careful. ZDDP can foul catalytic converters. That's why modern lower viscosity oils have little or none.
My Italian tune up completely fixed oil consumption. Go to the freeway and drive in 4th gear only, if that doesn't do it try 3rd gear. Should release those rings.
I'm in the process of doing this with my 98 Corolla. Previous owner did a deep piston soak and oil change before I took it on a solid hour drive on the PA turnpike through the mountains. Alternating heat and load is the key to getting these things to break up that bake in carbon (also accepting you are replacing that catalytic converter regardless).
So much soot coming out of that tailpipe on downshift 😂
This should be a great experiment....... looking forward to the outcome....
I'm starting to think worn valve guides can lead to oil consumption as well. You may want to perform a vacuum gauge test, check the fuel trims (lean), and run a dynamic (running) compression test to check how the engine is breathing. I'm not sure how to check worn valve guides without disassembly (wiggle test.) One article I skimmed suggests filling the crankcase with propane while the purge solenoid, pcv, and breather systems are disabled. A sudden increase in the negative short term fuel trims indicates the seals and guides are allowing oil through. The catch can should be keeping the intake runner low spots free of oil. If they still have oil then it could be oil coming from worn valve guides, in theory. During deceleration the vacuum increase is enough to suck oil past the good valve stem seals. When I looked at the valve stem seal replacement video it looked like the guide, spring, and lifter sit in a tub of oil by design. Dropping a cylinder on the highway could be an intake valve failing to seat, leading to a loss of compression.
Update 8/25:
There appears to be an oil additive called "Bar's Leaks Oil Seal Engine Oil Burning & Leak Repair", part number OS-1. It claims to work for worn valve guides, harden valve stem seals, oil consumption, and blue smoke from exhaust. The only requirement is that the engine doesn't need to add oil (1qt) more than once per day.
I was going to mention the very video from Oil Geek that you shared. So you' definitely got the science covered there. I got some of Valvoline's Restore and Protect while we were down in the Appalachia's in July. Being that I couldn't get it up here , in my area, at the time. Hope it works well with the cagers. Would be nice if they made something like that for motorcycles too. Looking forward to the results. But I would have been livid with the wife for messing up the whole rebuild time, during the only time, that there is time... say it one more time.
I was surprised to see you watch “oil geek” on UA-cam and you still don’t pre fill your oil filters before installation. He has a great video out about why you should do that and has all the science and oil analysis to back up the claims and debunk old rumors people say not to pre fill the filters.
I would avoid mixing oil brands. LSJ has a good video on avoiding this because the chemistry will often compete with each other and increase wear.
Hey Dave! It's Blackysan here. I've been following your oil burning experiment series and I'm very sorry to hear that the B12 hasn't been able to help fix your engine. I noticed your motor oil from recent videos that got very dirty with just 300 miles. It's telling me there's a lot of blow-by gas mixed into the oil and makes it dark very quickly. Do u feel any pressure coming out from your oil cap while the engine is running? U can place your hand over it and feel, see if there's wet vapor sticking to your hand as well. If so and very severe? it means your piston wall could have been damaged allowed gas and oil escaped your piston rings. I know u r going to tear up the engine and find out but I have one final experiment to recommend for u to try it out before the engine tears down.
My recommendation is to run DIESEL FUEL as motor flush before putting in new oil and filter when u do your oil change. Just putting enough diesel fuel past your bottom dot of your dip stick after draining your old oil then run the engine in idle for 10 mins. U can give a few revs to 2000 - 3000 rpm in between as well but mostly idling then draining the diesel fuel out and replace with new oil filter and oil after. Diesel fuel is a very strong carbon sludge cleaner and it won't hurt anything for just running it for 10 mins. I've been using diesel fuel to clean heavy sludge engines and engine parts for years and haven't given me any problems so far. The reason why I recommended the B12 over the diesel was because of the price of diesel fuel. Since B12 fixed my Scion tC so I don't have to use diesel as a motor flush. I believe the diesel and clean your oil control rings very well because there's a high chance of the oil getting past your rings because of piston wall damage (I suspected but could be wrong). I am 100% sure the diesel can clean out everything over at the oil control rings. Please consider giving it a try and report back. Best regards
Thanks Blackysan. I'll certainly take this into consideration. Thanks for the suggestion ... and for the B12 experiment ... you might already know, but it's one of my most watched videos :-)
when are you going to up load the new video??.. im looking into getting this same oil for my truck. hope it works
Still in the middle of the experiment ... trying to get miles on it.
My family lives in Greenville, South Carolina, and I never ever seen a blue sky down here they’re always filled with chemtrails. I don’t know why they hit the Carolinas so hard but they do.
That stuff works- far better than you’d expect. Depending on current mileage of your vehicle, I’d STRONGLY recommend changing out your oil filter in about 500 miles, cutting it open & seeing how much gunk from the deposits removed & will collect on the oil filter. Be forewarned: it’ll be A LOT more dirty to the point of being clogged than a filter changed using ‘normal’ oil at OEM intervals (5k miles or whatever). Depending on how dirty the filter is after, say, 500 miles, change it and do it again in 750 or 800 miles and so on.
Good idea!
great vids as always!! soooo VAL ( new) 5:59 R AND PRO. on my 2nd 3000-3500 oci.... went from 1/2 qrt every 400-500... to 700-800 by end of first change! 1500 imto 2nd change! I will update at end of mext change!
OK this third round of restored protect 530 is a little different… I changed a couple 100 miles early at 2800… Because I noticed it was smell of the fuel and it was very black… Shernoff not transparent… And doing its job well from the look at it… I believe the next round I will change it around 2500… The oil consumption was about roughly 7 to 800 w 1/2 a qrt… I noticed on the last let's say five hundred miles ago… That shortened … I put a half a quart at 5: 50 and 1/2 a quart around 500… So perhaps using up the oil slow down the availability of all the additives to stay at that high level of work… I don't know I'm reaching for the brass ring here in a great experience so far definitely working… See you on the next round💪🏻🎉
love your series mate, well done!
Thanks! :-)
oh mann. if this oil is really magic as u said, u should be changing oil filter asap. the gunk will clog it and u gonna run no filter at all. edit : btw u can change oil filter without draining oil just gonna loose 1/3 quart
I would love to see how your Corolla responds with Rotella T4 15w-40
Dave, glad to be back on ye old experiment train. mmmmmm, science. I hate to pee in the punch bowl but I agree with the folks who don't think this oil will work. But I'd love to be wrong. And if you blow the engine or the rebuild fails, I have a really well maintained 2016 Corolla with only 46,000 on the clock that I'm ready to make a good deal on.
🤔👍😊
Video idea ! ... replace oil filter every xxxx miles. Cut open and show filter media after use.
I drive here in Western Australia a 1995 Toyota Crown Royal Extra with a 1jzge engine with 78000klms on it or 40000mls , I purchased it from Yokohama Japan as 2nd hand import , I’m also a X Lexus quality controller , so older v6 v8 engines are incredibly reliable, but the v6 is well known for clogging up if not serviced .
I just found this rabbit hole my dad had a 2002 Toyota solara with 300k+ Miles original engine newer transmission tho it’s a 2azfe it does burn oil it it might be the many leaks around it but enjoyed all the steps you’ve taken to try to remedy the problem I hope you can find a easier solution than open heart surgery but if that’s what it takes it’ll be nice if you could find updated parts and rings that will out last the old ones
Thanks for the kind comment! :-)
Dave... hope this valvoline oil helps you to fix you car oil ring issue... or at least make a final conclusion and a closure of this case
Thanks Cesar :-)
That banana smell you described....that is from the Ester base oil.
At this point id love to see a partial teardown and inspection of the piston oil control rings
Dave, I just wanted to share an update on my experience thus far with the "Restore & Protect" in my 1zzfe engine. I'm 1,500 miles into the oil change interval and have topped off with little less that 1/2 quart. In the last oil change interval the engine was averaging 1 quart every 2,000 miles (or maybe even a little worse than that) so I feel like I may actually be seeing some improvement already. Of course it's still a little too early to have any definitive results but it does look promising at this point. Any way, I just wanted to share an update. Can't wait to hear your results with the "Premium Blue Restore".
Thanks for the update!
It’s great oil, but Pennzoil Platinum uses natural gas which has fewer impurities so they can have a low TBN of 5.2 because the base oil is such high quality and has so much more adulterant absorption or nullification capabilities. I was using almost two quarts in about 4,000 miles, after it dropped to about less than 1/2 a quart in almost 5,000. I tried the Ultra Platinum because I wanted to see how clean I could get it and it has a TBN of 7.7 and the base is such good quality it should help clean and also to have extra protection to do a thorough carbon cleaning (which should be done with catalytic converter cleaner in the fuel to reduce the risk of carbon chunks burning holes in the catalyst) and then a can of BG EPR before using the High Mileage Platinum to continue the cleaning while treating the seals a bit too. I swear it runs smoother, has better acceleration, and gets better gas mileage. Evaporation, lubricity, longevity, and film strength are all better than most other oils(watch Project Farm) even much more expensive kinds. Chevron Delo Heavy Duty Full Synthetic can be used in gas engines and is a top tier oil; if you want to try something fool hearty, at least don’t go so far so fast and try some of that first
Fun fact: Dogs are great at reading body language so it's pretty easy to teach them sign language for specific tasks. One of my rescues is deaf but she knows about a dozen signs. Eg: Meal time, bed time, time for a walk, time for a drive, I love you, sit, stay, lay down, etc... I think she reads lips too.
And, oh yeah, the Corolla is back!!!!
Cool. Yeah, she seems to always know what's going regardless.
Dave, please give us some update. Has the oil consumption reduced? Thanks!
Working on it
I’ve been having good luck keeping the oil usage to a minimum i my wife’s 2009 Rav4 by doing an every-other Berryman’s soak on cylinders 3/4 and adding 1 oz of Berryman’s to the 0w20 oil with each 5k mi oil change.
999 likes had to hit the button ,wow what a dedicated long term oil experiment
THANK YOU 😊
can’t wait for the end results
From engine oil, to mutts...to engine oil! Shell fuel + Valvoline = Brand new engine!!! Btw, beautiful place where you live at, sir! FINALLY!: ALWAYS, ALWAYS SHAKE, SHAKE, SHAKE THAT OIL CONTAINER!!! Absolutely necessary to mix in well the various additives that settle at the bottom!!!
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Dave . My wife has a Corolla exactly like yours. The only difference is that hers is Automatic. We also have the same problem with the oil consumption and I´ve been following all the videos and waiting for the final solution. Thanks in advance for such a fantastic job. However, my concern today is about the temperature my engine is working on. We have had this car for 12 years and as I remember, the cooling fans used to turn on when the temperature was about 92-93 C (199 F). I have noticed since about a year ago that the fans are kicking off when the ECT is 97 C (206 F). I changed the ECT sensor and no change, I´ve checked all the system and wiring and everything seems to be in order. I´ve performed several tests and nothing irregular found. Additionally, the coolant in the reservoir started to bubble at 96 C (204 F). I changed the radiator cap for OEM (0.9) but no solution. I even tried a different computer and no changes. Then I bought a new radiator cap (1.1) and at least it stopped the bubbling, but the fans are still turning on at 97C. I just wanted to know what temperature your car´s fans turn on. And any additional comments on this topic will be highly appreciated. Thanks so much. Ricardo from Bogotá, Colombia
Can’t wait to see what your observations are.
I’m not far away from Y’all. Pickens SC
Mountain man, eh? :-)
Yes sir
Great content !
I have been following this show for a long time, hoping, that you counld find a way to fix my oil burning peugeot 308.But I thought I cant wait any longer two month ago, so I sent that EP6 engine back to the factory where it been manufactured and give it a overhaul.
The first number isn't a weight it's the oils ability to flow at cold temps. In SC it doesn't matter they're both a 30 weight oil
I started using the Restore & Protect in my oil burning Saturn, we’ll see how it does.
Please keep us posted! :-)
Premium Blue Restore has the same approach as HPL oils just high ester, granted HPL also uses alkylated naphthalene.
Esters is a type of synthetic oil which have high polarity, and are kinda a natural solvent but very expensive. The issue with them is they tend to reduce the effectiveness of anti-wear additives significantly at high concentration (30%+ of the base oil) since they both work by attaching themselves to metal. Carbon/sludge also attaches itself to metal as well and really thats half the charm it out competes sludge/carbon for bare metal.
What would be a good oil to use to free the rings on pistons in a high rpm motorcycle? I wish restore and protect from valvoline would be releases in 20w50 or 10w40 weights and also be wet clutch safe. But in the meantime, any suggestions? Or maybe additives?
🤔Interesting. Thanks for the info.
12:30 I-26 😂 Sounds like you’re in the WNC area. Really nice place to be!
I remember building a catch can for blow by in my 76 Ford 300cid. I should have added a medium to it.
Hi love your content, yesterday I watched a UA-cam vid by A Toolbox. The author stated that he used Vavoline Restore and Protect and it clogged his oil filter after 500 miles. FYI
Use a 5/40 or 15/40 vis oil , your engine has at least double the bearing and piston clearance at 200k miles than it did when it was new. This is one of the reasons they make higher vis oils!
yayyyy finally a new update
I thought one of your Toyota videos showed cylinder wall damage ? That would cause excessive oil consumption. But it will be interesting to see if oil rings sticking is most of the oil consumption problem.
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the filter and cut it apart after a few hundred miles and make sure it isn't clogging up. Curious to see how it goes.