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Great video. My wife has a 2017 VW Passat R-line with the 1.8L engine. I had been using Royal Purple 5w-40 European, since the first oil change at 5,000 miles. Between 30,000-35,000 miles I noticed it was beginning to burn oil. About half a quart per oil change. Around 45,000 miles my wife had informed me about a low oil warning on the dash. When I checked the dip stick, the oil wasn’t even reading on the stick. I was shocked at the amount of oil that was burned during the last 5,000 miles. I immediately switched to Amsoil 5w-40 European and used Amsoil’s engine flush. Currently the car is nearing 70,000 miles and burns around a half quart in between 5,000 mile oil change intervals.
@@3kkk514 as an European that is common problem for VW AUDI SKODA SEAT gasoline cars. But it should not be happening after 2016 models. Only thing you can do is to buy MAHLE piston rings. Just MAHLE. Search on Google also if you want. I don't if you are willing to rebuild the engine but if will consume more and more oil if you don't.
I agree that oil consumption is usually a design problem or lack of maintenance. I just changed the oil in my 2021 Subaru Forester at 1000 miles with Amsoil SS 0W20 and both differentials with Severe gear 75W90. I just removed the valve cover on my Honda GCV160 mower and found very little wear on the plastic cam lobe and rocker arms. Its 14 years old and has always had Amsoil 10W30 small engine oil and has no oil consumption. Same results with my pressure washer with the same Honda engine. Its about 12 years old.
I've found you pretty much can't fail if you change them often. I like to use mobil 1 0w-40 in my lawn equipment. Like my 4 stroke weed trimmer and blower use around 70cc of oil. Its so easy to dump it out every couple hours. Going on 7 years now and no issues.
I think its nuts that toyota says i only need to change my oil in my new tundra every 10k miles. No way! Every 5k for me and I always bring my own full synthetic oil.
Whats your sump capacity? European car makers engines have been spec’ing 10k/ 1 year OCI’s for 10+ years with synthetic at an 8-10 quart sump capacity with no issues.
5K should be max oil change interval for any Toyota. Even if you don’t have any oil burning issues and planning on keep it for a long time. I’m not buying the 10K or 20K oil change intervals from Amsoil or anyone else.
I use 10W-30 and 0W-20 Amsoil Signature series. I continue to use the rule of thumb of 3000 miles if autocross or track use x 1 day or change immediately after x2 track days. 5000 miles if normal driving with some pulls or Every 1 year (which ever comes first). I also use x2 filter Mags on oil filter, and use OEM filter only.
Completely agree with using Amsoil. I believe why using 0W20 is preferred is that the oil is used to cool the bottom of the pistons. 0W30 oil is thicker at operating temperatures therefore less oil is cooling the bottom of the pistons. The small holes are being plugged by sludge. If you have a car that is just starting to burn oil the engine flush and Amsoil oil may reverse this. Two types of driving conditions cause excessive sludge. High ambient temperatures and short trips in cold weather. In both conditions either use a better quality oil or shorten the drain intervals on cheaper synthetic oil. If one ignores the start of this oil burning irreparable damage will be done to the cylinder walls.
@@caseyalexander2244 High milage oils have more detergents and seal conditioners, the meet the new SP / GF-6A standards, there is nothing wrong with them.
@jefferysurratt5650 people use oil that they call it quality and then later switch to high mileage oil because someone says it has better additives. Where is the common sense, why not start with high quality oils instead of garbage oil and then switch to high mileage. Quality oil has more of everything that high mileage oil has only for few additives
I have a 99 Chevy Metro 1.0 Manual. The original owner used conventional oil but changed it every 3000 miles and he put it in the log book. It 175,000 it burned no oil. I am the second owner. I use full synthetic and change it every 5000 miles. It now has 275,000 on the same engine. It leaks a little bit of oil at the transmission/engine but it doesn't burn oil as there is no oil residue in the tailpipe. I gave it a 505 carbon clean and it runs like it's brand new. My dad had a 2003 Chevy Silverado and changed the oil at 7500 miles. He always used Mobil 1. I inherited it and now I change it every 5000 miles using Supertech "20,000" mile GL6 synthetic. At 165,000 miles it burns no oil. People are really telling on themselves. If you buy a used car, do yourself a favor and check the tailpipe for oil. One more thing. If your driving a long trip halfway across the country doing 90 mph in car with a high rpm motor, bring some oil with you and check it periodically. If you don't you might end up paying a heavy price.
My buddy had an 07 camry hybrid. The 2.4 hybrid used 5w20/0w20 and still had oil consumption. Used Castrol edge titanium/extended. Still had oil consumption. Was a head defect that was recalled. I agree, amsoil works wonders. I like to run engine flushes every so often. Also, ceratec,etc helps.
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera They never fixed it. All toyota 2 series 4 cylinder motors use oil. Even the 2ZR-FXE in the prius from 2010-2015. Looks like the parts are the same as the old corollas and camrys.
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera i did all that you mentioned and more. it doesn't change oil consumption. just makes the car not ping to death and eat the head gasket. i agree. i'll just keep adding oil. i disconnected the egr and did breather vents instead of a pcv valve and breather connected to the intake. keeps the car a lot cleaner.
Excellent video and teaching. Care Care Nut says low tension Toyota design on the 2.5 was the reason for oil consumption on the Camry 2AFRE. How often do you recommend using Amsoil's engine flush if you only use their oil?
@repairvehicle Presently, I have 221,000 miles on the vehicle. I was going to go with Valvoline R/P but decided to go 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Now that I've watched you, I'll be going Amsoil next oil change, I joined them to get the preferred discount.
Great video, my sister has a 2007 Toyota Camry that burns oil. She has the oil changed ever 5K & couldn't understand why, you video explains everything.
2007 Camry had engine design flaw, so it consumes oil. Whatever oil you use, that can't be fixed. Newer Camry doesn't have this problem. I never used Amsoil in my 2012 Camry, no oil consumption whatsoever. Just use Toyota recommended 0W20 oil.
I have a Honda Del Sol, Rebuilt engine running Smooth and strong... about 80k on the Rebuilt engine. No smoke, clean, clear radiator fluid and oil crank case is great too. 5w-30 Oil right now and since it was rebuilt... what oil would you recommend? Wondering if I could go down to lighter oil as in 0w-20 if I use Synthetic Amsoil. Right now using Regular Pennzoil, very regular oil changes. Just replaced new camshaft seal, front seal, valve cover seal and transmission shifter seal. Going to replace the oil pan seal soon and also replace right axle this week and the axle seal...
I run 0w40 fully synthetic in my old Volvo it likes that oil the most. Basically zero consumption. The valvetrain makes too much noise on 0w30 and people say you can run the Volvo D5 on anything from 0w30 to 5w40 depending on climate and usage aka Oil Temp. The cure for a developing noise with the hydraulic lifters is a thicker oil and it doesn't hurt the engine at all to go up in the viscosity. If you ignore that and keep running the engine on 0w30 all the time they will tick and rattle when hot and they can knock really bad on a cold start. Frequent oil changes with 0w40 or 5w40 help a lot.
Thicker oil is not better, you have engine problems. Watch this video Why oil pressure drops? Thicker oil is not solution is just a problem cover up. ua-cam.com/video/rAF-cNdT7SY/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle its a 17 year old diesel engine that was designed in the late 90s its build like a truck engine when you take it apart im gonna run an 0w40 or 5w40 in it regardless even if I rebuild the valvetrain with new lifters this summer or not. I'm having a hard time believing it was meant for 0w30 to begin with people in forums told me I could dump 10w40 in that engine in the summer and its perfectly fine to do that with this engine they dont seem to care much as long as they have oil in them. Volvo didn't put an oil pressure sensor on them (how smart 🙃) so no idea where the oil pressure is at haha. Its a very long lasting engine so I have no reason to believe its physically worn at all mine is too low miles to be considered worn these engines start showing signs of wear around 500.000 Kilometers mines at 247.000 I dont have engine problems, I have a developing lifter problem thats somewhat common on the D5 they seem to always make some noise unless they are brand new or very well taken care which mine was NOT it was neglected all its life with bullshit LongLife OCIs and 0w30 which is too thin for that engine to begin with. So thats why its slightly noisy now but really unless I told you "ok open your window and listen for that noise when I drive by that wall and it bounces back" people dont notice it. But that faint valvetrain noise gotten better actually since the car got to me and my better servicing. For now it has become quiet enough to just leave it you have to take my word for it here. Doing Lifters is a major job and no im not paying a shop to do that and if I decide to not DIY it and if it gets worse ill just sell the car. Like ok I could put 0w30 back it it next oil change like go with a good quality oil with high detergent package and also do an engine flush but diesels are not nearly as nasty as gasoline engines inside basically just black soot thats it no sticky varnish everywhere or gummed up piston rings. If 0w30 vs. 0w40 does anything in this engine it would be 0w40 raises oil pressure and forms a thicker oil film on components and by being thicker and raising oil pressure it quietens the lifters down. Im sure the bottom end and pistons dont give a shit if they get 0w30,0w40 or even 10w40 as long as there is oil pressure. This is an old diesel ive seen them opened up at 250k with only the piston skirt coating starting to wear off. They are just low stress engines that last mine makes 163hp... and its a 2.4L Diesel so 67hp per L of displacement no wonder I see these things psoted up for sale with 500.000km or so and good running engines. You say viscosity doesn't matter only oil quality matters I agree 100% but in my case I have a tolerant engine anyways like its as simple as it can be just a crankshaft, 5 Cylinders, two camshafts up top and no timing chain to be worried about. Redline is at 4500rpm but realistically 4000rpm is the most you see it rev to even during aggressive driving thats where the trans shift point seems to be makes sense. Yes I might go back to a high quality 0w30 just to see what its like.
Hi sir, i drive a 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 GX 4 speed auto that has the 5S-FE engine. The recommended oil in the owners manual is the 5w30. If i want to keep the engine long lasting which is the recommended engine oil please? Really appreciate your inputs. Thank you and have a great day.
My recommendation is to use this oil and I use exactly same oil in my 2011 Lexus. www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?zo=5257753
If there is wear and tear on the cylinder walls in a 2.5L you think flushing and switching to Amsoil might improve severe consumption? I went through 2 quarts on a 1200 mile trip. Could use the advise for the drive home. I found an Amsoil dealer near me. Thank you.
Hey sorry, had to get some things done. Read all the comments. I'll switch to Amsoil from now on. I had never heard of the low evaporate rate before. I'm really grateful to you for passing down the knowledge, and more than happy to spend the extra money on a much better oil. Thanks man!
ive used Amsoil in my 1999 vw passat !.8t 300.000 miles put amsoil ln 2003 vw passat same engine i think 220000 mile 2016 vw golf 1.8 tsi engine 95.000 2011 bmw x3 25i 90.000 miles AND 2006 sprinter van diesel 300.000 miles all my cars use Amsoil euro 5w40
Do you rec'd changing the oil filter every oil change if it's rated for 15k (wix)? I've heard that the filter actually becomes more efficient if left in after one oil change, and changed every other oil change. Is that BS? Perhaps it's most important to monitor the size of the 'chunks' that come out of the oil to determine if the filter can stay in another oil change?
Filter efficiency drops as it’s become clogged up with stuff. Changing filter every other oil change is not smart because you are contaminating fresh oil with stuff that is trapped and now being dislodged and circulating again causing severe wear. Every oil filter is rated for one oil change.
I’m an owner of 20k miles Lexus is300h 2021 engine 2AR-FSE, the manual recommends 0-W20, but dealership recommends 5-W30 because of “hot weather “ here in Thailand, which should I use? (Both fully synthetic)
Amsoil is great oil. If you are going to use it, get the Signature Series . The OE and XL are waste of time, might as well get any other full synthetic oil like penzoil or Mobil or valvoline.
I cannot justify paying the price premium for the Amsoil Signature over the Amsoil XL because I change my oil every 5000 miles. I'm quite happy with Amsoil XL boosted, it has served me well.
I have Scion tC 2005 with the 2.4L 4 cyl. with 2AZ-FE what should I use? My engine just started to burn rich and oil consumption started ( 130k miles )
1st. I would use this engine cleaner before oil change, follow instructions on the bottle www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753 2nd. If you want to lower oil consumption use this oil, Signature series www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2005/scion/tc/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
I drive a 2018 Tundra with the 5.7. I heard you mention that if the manufacturer recommends a certain oil, (0w-20 in my case) then you should use it. I hear a lot of Tundra guys switching to 5w-30 synthetic and claiming the 0w-20 is only to meet emissions standards. They claim the 5w-30 protects the engine better, and even quiets the noisy lifters down. Toyota originally recommended 5w-30 for the 5.7 Tundra, and still does for countries with less strict emission standards. And the Tundra has had zero design changes since they came out with the 5.7. I have been running the 0w-20, but what is the right oil for my 5.7? This is an often discussed topic, might make for a good video idea.
Toyota recommended 5w-30 none synthetic conventional oil until 2010. In 2011 they switched from 5w-30 to 0w-20 synthetic oil. 5w-30 conventional oil is garbage compared to 0w-20 synthetic oil. I have done video explaining in depth ua-cam.com/video/a_FCr7YktVc/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle Yeah but what about The heavier weight synthetic though. I’ve heard that too and I often wonder myself how much of that oil weight recommendation is based on emissions or cafe numbers
Thinner oil is needed due variable valve timing system. It has nothing to due with fuel economy. Thicker oil is number cause for variable valve timing system wearing out.
@@repairvehicle yeah we understand that part, the question we are asking is when the exact same car or truck specs 0w20 in the USA and then somewhere like Australia or middle east the exact same car or truck with the same engine has a range of oils based on temperature conditions say for instance it will recommend 5W30 as long as it doesn't get below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Well what are we to think of that? Or even the American owners manual will say "if 0w20 is not available X can be used but must be changed at the next oil change" now does it say that because it's a damage issue does it say that because it needs to be in compliance with emissions or a fuel economy Target, what's the trade off?
My car calls for either 5w-20 OR 0w-20 "for better fuel economy." I used 0w-20, drove 400 miles and spun a bearing. Engine was toast. Now I'm rebuilding the engine I swapped into my Gen 1 Scion tC and I've been only running 5w-20 and I'm obsessive about my oil changes, no more than 3500 miles at most, only twice. I don't know wtf happened to have be dealing with all this but I'm just about fed up with it. Been running royal purple solely since swap in 2017, I don't hot rod very often (but have and will continue to enjoy my vehicles and the FULL speedometer I paid for) and I drive both in town and freeway often, when I can actually drive the damn thing anyway. Not sure what more to do... I love rebuilding engines but this is ridiculous and expensive, especially being only a year into turning wrenches, in my garage and self-taught. I have no assistance, very little guidance and the internet lol. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm relying on it and a few others (I cross-check all over the place until I feel good about any given detail.)
@@repairvehicle 428. I had just changed my oil right before a 380 mile drive for my daughter's state championship tournament (they took first place and I wasn't able to be there when they lit up the school's torches and letter because I was on the side of the freeway.) I had no warning lights, no cel light, nada before it happened. Oil light didn't illuminate until AFTER the fact. I had enough time to say "that doesn't sound right, what the hell!!" Before my car just shut off and I had to battle the steering wheel to get onto the roadside. It started once after that but never again after. Pulled the oil pan and had quarter & dime sized chunks and glittery purple oil. Wasn't fun lol
I never could see how such thin oil can give adequate lubrication. The technology-lovers and the Japan-lovers would scream and curse at me for not being madly in love with the latest technology and the latest Japanese, but it looks like I was right and they were wrong.
@@leslie-tolman Oil pressure GAUGES are way better than oil idiot lights for that very reason - idiot lights come on after the fact. Gauges, if you actually look at them, usually give you a warning before disaster strikes by reading lower than normal. A light won't come on until such time that a gauge would read zero, and that is often too late. The damage has already been done.
My 2003 Camry uses quite a bit of oil, about 1 quart every 700 miles.. I haven't tried Signature Series yet.. I believe it may be piston rings or the valve stem seals
This is the correct viscosity for your engine www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2003/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
You have the same engine I have in my 04 Toyota. Switch over to Signature Series if you can right away or start with OE if you are skeptical and move up. It will cut your oil consumption rate. I was burning 1 quart every 1K miles. Now I’m using about 2 quarts every 3K miles using OE and XL . I drive the vehicle hard also. I just started using Signature Series and will see what my oil burning rate is in the next 8-10 weeks. If it’s the same, I will switch back to OE and continue 3K oil changes. The last time the oil changes were done every 5K was at the dealership up to 90K and one time afterwards with Mobil 1. I’ve been using Mobil 1 for the past 10 years mainly and started using Amsoil this year. Currently at 209K miles. Again, I was skeptical in using Amsoil. Definitely switch over if you are hesitant. It’s better than Mobil 1 or any other synthetic from Walmart. I would recommend using the Amsoil Power Foam if you can buy it. California is the only state that you cannot buy it. But when in Vegas, stop by the Amsoil Distribution Center and grab 2 while there.
@repairvehicle does Toyota have a problem with the 5.7L in the Tundra? Mine has used some oil (burning it) it’s not terrible, but more then I’d like. I have done a Amsoil flush and switch to Amsoil signature series 0W20. I’ve lost about a 1/4 quart in a 1000 miles. What’s your thoughts?
What was the mileage on the truck when bought it? What year is the truck. Tundra don't have issues with oil consumption unless oil changes were not done on time.
What about GDI engines? The oil industry specifically states there is a fuel dilution problem with these engines. They also produce soot, lots of it because of unburned fuel. My gm ectotec uses 5w20, but the dealer uses 0w20 when i get my oil changed. I live in Arizona, its hot, real hot. I have noticed more timing chan noise with the change, even though technically it shouldn't matter. It also uses about 1 quart every 5k. But runs fine. I change it every 6 months or every 5k. Not talking any chances.
Honda civic 2021 in tropic country is use 0w20 or 5w30 better ?, honda recommend 0w16 , 0w20, 5w30 and which use of Ams, Mobil, Shell, Motul, castrol better ? Pls
Hey Yukon, go thru and read my responses on this posting . I have several responses. This morning after checking my oil after topping off 1/2 quart signature series last week and driving 200 miles total till this morning, dip stick is still at the FULL LEVEL. I had to check a couple times to confirm. I’m nearly at 1400-1500 miles with Signatures Series and so far only top off 1/2 quart. Yes, Signature Series with Amsoil Preferred Customer membership is about $42. But you are getting Group 4 oil that outperforms. Otherwise buying cheap conventional Castro GTX and topping off every 500-1000 miles is your cheap conventional option that a lot of mechanics say to do. But you are not fixing the problem. If you have no gasket leaks, use the Amsoil Engjne Flush. But if you do have oil leaks, avoid or be cautious with using the Flush. That’s my opinion on the flush.
Hey boss. I have been using full synthetic mobil 1 oil change for 122k miles now. Would it be okay if I switch to Amsoil %100 full synthetic, or will it cause more damage/leaks then good?
What about Camry 2014 in the middle east we have extremely hot weather like 122 F. Can I still use 0W20. The Owners manual suggested using a range from 0W20 up to 20W50?
Thank you much for this video I have a 2007 RAV 4 2.4 ... its @ 264kms at the moment ..bought it with 241k ... it had short blk replacement when @ 100k.. I've had it for just abt a yr... I now have 5w50 german synthetic
@@repairvehicle I've ordered and received 0W 20 high-mileage synthetic from AMSOIL...I have noticed that the oil consumption is vastly reduced from about 6 liters between oil change(5000kms) to just about 1 and half liters...I spoke with Amsoil tech rep just after I ordered and he suggest I use the flush in my next oil change (within a week). I would like to know what your experience prompts you to forecast my switching to the 0W-20..? Please correct me if I am wrong ..from your video I understood that the 0w20 will enable better efficiency on the oil ring function,thus lengthening the life of my engine... I am just not clear on whether or not it will reduce my oil cunsumption. thoughts please
Hi. I have a 2007 Honda crv petrol 2.0 automatic, 128000 km. Can you tell me please if I should use 0W20 or 5w30 Mobil one or Castrol in Eastern Europe. Thank you
hello, i have 2013 jazz honda 1.5 liter. my manual says use 0w20 but i use now 5w30. climate here is 2 season only. summer and rainy. is amsoil 5w30 good for every 5000km 0r 1 year replacement whichever comes first. 😊
I have a 2000 Accord 2.3 ulev engine that uses 5W-30 and it burns a lot of oil. I can start using Amsoil oil brand, but do I also change the viscosity??? Also does it have to be Amsoil signature series or XL?
You can use xl or signature series. Keep in mind that when it comes to oil change never go beyond 1 year on oil. 4k miles or 1 year which comes first. www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2000/honda/accord/2-3l-4-cyl-engine-code-f23a5-y/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
Toyota doesn't care that they screwed a very loyal consumer base with their crap piston rings..nothing fixes this oil consumption issue except replacing the rings or the whole engine..can you say planned obsolescence !
Yeah i think mike is an idiot. The only reason engines get clogged and dirty because of carbon and start burning oil, is because the owner changes oil in longer intervals. Toyotas are the reliable car, most owners buy them because they dont care for maintenance or having to deal with random repairs 🙄
I'd like to run an engine flush but have always heard horror stories about how the owners ended up with engine damage afterwards, saying the debris or sludge ended up in the "valleys" or something similar. Do you think it could have been because they used an acetone based flush? So far my oil consumption is decreasing with regular oil change interval every 3,000-3,500 miles including P.I. Gasoline Additive at that time. I figure if this trend continues and am able to achieve only 1 quart if oil consumption every 3,000 miles, then there shouldn't be a need for an engine flush. My main concern is wanting to avoid fine particulate buildup collecting in areas of the engine which may interfere with performance as well as potential damage.
Have you gotten it down to 1 qt for every 3K miles?? I’m currently going thru 2 quarts every 3K miles. Haven’t done the engine flush yet, but it’s something I’m thinking of after 6 months of using Amsoil Oils and going thru OE, XL, and now Signature Series. If my oil burn rate is the same with Signature Series in 8-10 weeks, I’m will look into doing the Engine Flush as the final process of trying to get whatever gunk is still inside the engine. But if my oil burn rate decreases to 1 1/2 quart, I will just continue using Signature Series and keep doing it that way.
I'm at about 2.75 quarts per 3k miles, but that's because I've been using the AC a lot. It'll be interesting to see how much better the oil consumption is once Summer is over and I don't need the AC anymore. Just out of caution, I'm going to continue using Signature Series along with regular oil changes every 3k to 3.5k miles instead of an oil flush, as I figure even if it's the slow route to cleaning out buildup, better safe than sorry.
It is only recently 0w20 has come out on the market, before that 5w30 - 5w40 - 10w40 were the most common. We did have oil burner back in the day, but that was due to owener not changeing their oil on time. The conventional oil did it´s work just fine untill Turbo Chargers came on the market, then we started getting problems, conventional oil could not handle the high heat being produced , even with oil coolers the oil was breaking down too fast. It took a few years for the oil companies too catch up with the new turbo engines and fill their needs. The "EXTENDED OIL LIFE" came about do to enviormental issues, so the oil companies had to come up with a formula were their oil could protect the engine for longer periods, at least as long as the factory garantee was valid. Todays oils and filters will last a good 10,000km (6000mi) depending on driving condition and how worn the motor is. The secret to a loooong life for your engine, "KEEP YOUR OIL CLEAN!!" Use the oil drop test on a white piece of paper, when you see BLACK SPOTS in the oil it´s time to change the oil and filter.
According to the sae 0w-20 has been on the market since 2002. Almost every brand had turbocharged vehicles in 90s. www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2002-01-1636/
In diesel engines, will the EGR system have anything to do with the soot deposit on the piston rings, or is it only the valves in the EGR system that are affected with soot build up from the burning of the exhaust gasses?
Amsoil signature series has lowest oil evaporation rate and pennzoil platinum ultra old formulation from 2013 was very close to Amsoil. I cannot confirm if it's the same with latest pennzoil oil ultra platinum
I also used the engine flush per your rec'd. the asmoil is 0w20, I ordered it after you had rec'd the 5w-20... so it's probably not optimal, but hopefully better than the mobile 1 0w20 I was using before...
@@repairvehicle while I appreciate that you took the time to answer me I did watch the video as best I could. Car talk is not my typical language and this video was challenging for me to follow which is why I asked this question. If you could let me know what oil is best to use I would appreciate it as I need to add some as soon as possible.
For purposes are you using your acura? How often do you want to change oil? How many miles do you drive a year? Do you want best engine protection or just okay?
How about the Toyota 2KD-FTV Engine (2.5 D-4D). What kind of oil do you think it should use and how often? It sits in a Toyota Hiace 2007. I am not sure we can get that oil you are recommending here. My garage usually uses Mobil1. I don't drive the car much, so the mileage is not high for a 2007 model.
@@repairvehicle - I know. Here it is neither hot nor cold :-) We have a few days of snow during winther, but that is it. Our summers are not very hot. The average temperature is around 15 to 20 degrees celcius, with the occational days of closer to 30 degrees.
@@austinp3822 , there is a good chance oil can start leaking through the seals. Synthetic oil will remove buid up and expose dry seals and oil can start leaking. Some synthetic oils will for sure make worse in terms of leaking oil, other synthetic can help but not sure how much. Don’t have any experience to provide solid answer.
No leaks, no oil burning? Continue doing what you're doing. Don't change anything. Use the oil that was in the car if you know what it was, and change every 5k miles.
@@repairvehicle about 160k miles. Changed every 3k. but not sure how often it was changed before I bought used. Definitely black when I open the cap. engine oil turns black in less than 500 miles.
@@repairvehicle okay, have a daughter in high school. I bought her a 2007 Toyota Camry. 2.4. It was just $1,000 and it runs like it's brand new and looks brand new but I seem to have to add oil at least once a month or every other month. Which is about 800 mi of driven. I have been changing the oil myself. I've been thinking about using the thicker oil or a oil additive. But I would like to have your thoughts
@@repairvehicle The mileage is around 202k miles. It was around 190k when I bought it and it uses 5W30 castor oil. No I just checked the engine, it's not that clean on the inside. There is some dark stain marks. It's not sludge but it's just seem like stains because when I touch it, it feels like it's a part of the engine or it's etched into the engine on the inside
Wait so your saying that a thinner oil reduces oil consumption? I have an 02 Lexus IS300 and the owners manual says that I can run 5w30 or 10w30 5w30 is preferred, Toyota released tbs stating that 5w20 oil can also be used in my particular engine ( 2jz )
My Honda has been maintained religiously and with oil called for and synthetic still burns oil due have 240,000 on it now but uses less oil when I use 5/30 synthetic blend then when I use 0/20 full synthetic usually consumes it when I’m getting closer to the 3000 mile mark
Bmw doesn't recommend 0w-20. I don't have access to bmw owners manual, they might have other viscosity recommendations. If you can share your vin, I can look it up. With Highway driving oil will last much longer than city driving. Driving a lot of time in city will cause oil to go bad much quicker. Also, brand of oil plays very important role in oil life.
Part of the story that your not considering is newer cars have EGR systems that the older cars did not have. That’s really where part of the clogging is coming from
@repairvehicle Yes, it reduces oil burning significantly. The 2.4 2AZ-FE oil burning when down from a quart every 300-500 miles to 1/3 of a quart every 1,000 miles. My process of B12 soaked. 1)Drain oil and keep it unplug with an oil catcher underneath. )Remove spark plugs 3) Rotate Crankshaft to even out pistons 4)Pour in B12 into the pistons 5)Rotate Crankshaft 5 times on every refill of B12 6)Repeat steps 4 and 5 for 12-24 hours. Once done, put everything back and put in new oil. The first cranking will be a bit tough and generates lots of smoke.
hi hello any help please 🙏 i have sonata 2015 gdi my engine starts oil consumption 1 quarter every 600 mille whta i gonna do please i really appreciate give step.by step what ingonna do thanks i use castrol full synthetic 5w20
I would rebuild my engine specially if its a 10k engine like diesels. Why? because only you know how the engine has been treated! Unless you replace it with a brand new one!
Signature series oil if you have 4 cylinder www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2007/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle Basically Amsoil is the way to go! I just wanted to slow down the engine oil burn off on this crappy engine and if 0w/20 was another option to go with. Been using XL lately and will step it up to Signature Series soon. Thanks for confirming. Keep posting these amazing videos, very helpful!
To me it’s no big deal but a veichle shouldn’t burn oil with a dislike engine I have built 383 stroker motor and Chevy 400 small blocks they burn oil even having built them but they are higher Erving motors its understandable
You should not be using anything lighter or thicker to what the manufacturer recommends as you will starve your oil pump from circulating through your engines components.
Lighter, no but slightly thicker, sometimes. Many engines out there took 5w-20 just one model year before the manufacturer spec'd 0w-20. I think running 5w-20 or even a mixture to make 0w-25/5w-25 is fine, and actually better in the summer months or for work engines.
@caseyalexander2244 do not mix two together, terrible idea. Each oil formulation meets specific requirements, when two mixed together, now it doesn’t meet any requirements
@@repairvehicle my car is Corolla 2001 1nz engine, found out that the mechanic put 20w50 kindly advise on the best oil to use for next service, location Kenya, Africa
Please support this channel if you like this video
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Only this motor oil has been proven, use correct viscosity per owners manual www.amsoil.com/guides/?zo=5257753
Every car, truck and EV needs this ua-cam.com/video/H_bSDqnSh90/v-deo.html
Maintenance mistake made by diesel owners ua-cam.com/video/WBOBzA56jvw/v-deo.html
Why trucks don't come with this? ua-cam.com/video/hBbzJmCHtCo/v-deo.html
How to improve lights without cutting or drilling ua-cam.com/video/K4WbM97pkmE/v-deo.html
How to protect paint on the vehicle without wax ua-cam.com/video/I1fu9TsiYBc/v-deo.html
Great video. My wife has a 2017 VW Passat R-line with the 1.8L engine. I had been using Royal Purple 5w-40 European, since the first oil change at 5,000 miles. Between 30,000-35,000 miles I noticed it was beginning to burn oil. About half a quart per oil change. Around 45,000 miles my wife had informed me about a low oil warning on the dash. When I checked the dip stick, the oil wasn’t even reading on the stick. I was shocked at the amount of oil that was burned during the last 5,000 miles. I immediately switched to Amsoil 5w-40 European and used Amsoil’s engine flush. Currently the car is nearing 70,000 miles and burns around a half quart in between 5,000 mile oil change intervals.
Very impressive results with amsoil
My audi a4 b7 2.0.tfsi 200hp 500miles per 1 liter top up. 5w40
@@3kkk514 as an European that is common problem for VW AUDI SKODA SEAT gasoline cars. But it should not be happening after 2016 models. Only thing you can do is to buy MAHLE piston rings. Just MAHLE. Search on Google also if you want. I don't if you are willing to rebuild the engine but if will consume more and more oil if you don't.
I agree that oil consumption is usually a design problem or lack of maintenance. I just changed the oil in my 2021 Subaru Forester at 1000 miles with Amsoil SS 0W20 and both differentials with Severe gear 75W90. I just removed the valve cover on my Honda GCV160 mower and found very little wear on the plastic cam lobe and rocker arms. Its 14 years old and has always had Amsoil 10W30 small engine oil and has no oil consumption. Same results with my pressure washer with the same Honda engine. Its about 12 years old.
You doing excellent job maintaining your equipment.
I've found you pretty much can't fail if you change them often. I like to use mobil 1 0w-40 in my lawn equipment. Like my 4 stroke weed trimmer and blower use around 70cc of oil. Its so easy to dump it out every couple hours. Going on 7 years now and no issues.
PLASTIC cams and PLASTIC rockers???
@@michaelbenardo5695 Plastic cam gear and lobe with metal rocker arms.
@@michaelbenardo5695 cheap plastic no good like most new cars lol
I think its nuts that toyota says i only need to change my oil in my new tundra every 10k miles. No way! Every 5k for me and I always bring my own full synthetic oil.
Whats your sump capacity? European car makers engines have been spec’ing 10k/ 1 year OCI’s for 10+ years with synthetic at an 8-10 quart sump capacity with no issues.
10K is hell of a long time. 3K on troublesome engines that have oil burning issues. 5K oil changes on engines sounds about right.
Lol they have some out now for 20K intervals!! Crazy stuff!
5K should be max oil change interval for any Toyota. Even if you don’t have any oil burning issues and planning on keep it for a long time. I’m not buying the 10K or 20K oil change intervals from Amsoil or anyone else.
@@dashcamjourney4599 5k for sure
I use 10W-30 and 0W-20 Amsoil Signature series. I continue to use the rule of thumb of 3000 miles if autocross or track use x 1 day or change immediately after x2 track days. 5000 miles if normal driving with some pulls or Every 1 year (which ever comes first). I also use x2 filter Mags on oil filter, and use OEM filter only.
Oil consumption, the topic is oil consumption, what happened wirh rhe amsoil 0w20 , did it fix the oil consumption???
Peace
Yep I use 5w30 Amsoil. 2007 Chevy Impala 3.9liter v6. Uses less oil with Amsoil. And cut the noise from engine considerably.
Thank you for sharing
Completely agree with using Amsoil. I believe why using 0W20 is preferred is that the oil is used to cool the bottom of the pistons. 0W30 oil is thicker at operating temperatures therefore less oil is cooling the bottom of the pistons. The small holes are being plugged by sludge. If you have a car that is just starting to burn oil the engine flush and Amsoil oil may reverse this. Two types of driving conditions cause excessive sludge. High ambient temperatures and short trips in cold weather. In both conditions either use a better quality oil or shorten the drain intervals on cheaper synthetic oil. If one ignores the start of this oil burning irreparable damage will be done to the cylinder walls.
I'm with that 100%. I will add that going to 5w-20 can help high mileage engines, but whatever you do, stay away from high mileage oils.
why do you say to stay away from high mileage oils?@@caseyalexander2244
@@caseyalexander2244 High milage oils have more detergents and seal conditioners, the meet the new SP / GF-6A standards, there is nothing wrong with them.
@jefferysurratt5650 people use oil that they call it quality and then later switch to high mileage oil because someone says it has better additives. Where is the common sense, why not start with high quality oils instead of garbage oil and then switch to high mileage. Quality oil has more of everything that high mileage oil has only for few additives
I have a 99 Chevy Metro 1.0 Manual. The original owner used conventional oil but changed it every 3000 miles and he put it in the log book. It 175,000 it burned no oil. I am the second owner. I use full synthetic and change it every 5000 miles. It now has 275,000 on the same engine. It leaks a little bit of oil at the transmission/engine but it doesn't burn oil as there is no oil residue in the tailpipe. I gave it a 505 carbon clean and it runs like it's brand new. My dad had a 2003 Chevy Silverado and changed the oil at 7500 miles. He always used Mobil 1. I inherited it and now I change it every 5000 miles using Supertech "20,000" mile GL6 synthetic. At 165,000 miles it burns no oil. People are really telling on themselves. If you buy a used car, do yourself a favor and check the tailpipe for oil. One more thing. If your driving a long trip halfway across the country doing 90 mph in car with a high rpm motor, bring some oil with you and check it periodically. If you don't you might end up paying a heavy price.
My buddy had an 07 camry hybrid. The 2.4 hybrid used 5w20/0w20 and still had oil consumption. Used Castrol edge titanium/extended. Still had oil consumption. Was a head defect that was recalled. I agree, amsoil works wonders. I like to run engine flushes every so often. Also, ceratec,etc helps.
What’s your oil burn rate on your hybrid? That’s good you see that Amsoil is helping slow down the oil burning issue.
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera They never fixed it. All toyota 2 series 4 cylinder motors use oil. Even the 2ZR-FXE in the prius from 2010-2015. Looks like the parts are the same as the old corollas and camrys.
The only use oil when neglected
@@repairvehicle by toyota standards their definition of neglect is very low. lol
10k oil changes are the standard
@Hector Cortez-aponte-cabrera i did all that you mentioned and more. it doesn't change oil consumption. just makes the car not ping to death and eat the head gasket. i agree. i'll just keep adding oil. i disconnected the egr and did breather vents instead of a pcv valve and breather connected to the intake. keeps the car a lot cleaner.
Excellent video and teaching. Care Care Nut says low tension Toyota design on the 2.5 was the reason for oil consumption on the Camry 2AFRE. How often do you recommend using Amsoil's engine flush if you only use their oil?
How many miles on it?
@repairvehicle Presently, I have 221,000 miles on the vehicle. I was going to go with Valvoline R/P but decided to go 5w30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Now that I've watched you, I'll be going Amsoil next oil change, I joined them to get the preferred discount.
You can do before oil change once or every oil change
Great video, my sister has a 2007 Toyota Camry that burns oil. She has the oil changed ever 5K & couldn't understand why, you video explains everything.
Please subscribe
2007 Camry had engine design flaw, so it consumes oil. Whatever oil you use, that can't be fixed. Newer Camry doesn't have this problem. I never used Amsoil in my 2012 Camry, no oil consumption whatsoever. Just use Toyota recommended 0W20 oil.
2012 camry has same design as 2007
@@repairvehicle No sir. It has different engine.
Different engine, same piston design and rings
I have a Honda Del Sol, Rebuilt engine running Smooth and strong... about 80k on the Rebuilt engine.
No smoke, clean, clear radiator fluid and oil crank case is great too.
5w-30 Oil right now and since it was rebuilt... what oil would you recommend?
Wondering if I could go down to lighter oil as in 0w-20 if I use Synthetic Amsoil.
Right now using Regular Pennzoil, very regular oil changes.
Just replaced new camshaft seal, front seal, valve cover seal and transmission shifter seal.
Going to replace the oil pan seal soon and also replace right axle this week and the axle seal...
What is the reason you want to go lower number in viscosity?
Another fantastic (and educational) video..THIS is why I subscribed!
Thank you
I run 0w40 fully synthetic in my old Volvo it likes that oil the most. Basically zero consumption.
The valvetrain makes too much noise on 0w30 and people say you can run the Volvo D5 on anything from 0w30 to 5w40 depending on climate and usage aka Oil Temp.
The cure for a developing noise with the hydraulic lifters is a thicker oil and it doesn't hurt the engine at all to go up in the viscosity.
If you ignore that and keep running the engine on 0w30 all the time they will tick and rattle when hot and they can knock really bad on a cold start.
Frequent oil changes with 0w40 or 5w40 help a lot.
Thicker oil is not better, you have engine problems. Watch this video Why oil pressure drops? Thicker oil is not solution is just a problem cover up.
ua-cam.com/video/rAF-cNdT7SY/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle its a 17 year old diesel engine that was designed in the late 90s its build like a truck engine when you take it apart im gonna run an 0w40 or 5w40 in it regardless even if I rebuild the valvetrain with new lifters this summer or not. I'm having a hard time believing it was meant for 0w30 to begin with people in forums told me I could dump 10w40 in that engine in the summer and its perfectly fine to do that with this engine they dont seem to care much as long as they have oil in them.
Volvo didn't put an oil pressure sensor on them (how smart 🙃) so no idea where the oil pressure is at haha. Its a very long lasting engine so I have no reason to believe its physically worn at all mine is too low miles to be considered worn these engines start showing signs of wear around 500.000 Kilometers mines at 247.000
I dont have engine problems, I have a developing lifter problem thats somewhat common on the D5 they seem to always make some noise unless they are brand new or very well taken care which mine was NOT it was neglected all its life with bullshit LongLife OCIs and 0w30 which is too thin for that engine to begin with.
So thats why its slightly noisy now but really unless I told you "ok open your window and listen for that noise when I drive by that wall and it bounces back" people dont notice it.
But that faint valvetrain noise gotten better actually since the car got to me and my better servicing.
For now it has become quiet enough to just leave it you have to take my word for it here. Doing Lifters is a major job and no im not paying a shop to do that and if I decide to not DIY it and if it gets worse ill just sell the car.
Like ok I could put 0w30 back it it next oil change like go with a good quality oil with high detergent package and also do an engine flush but diesels are not nearly as nasty as gasoline engines inside basically just black soot thats it no sticky varnish everywhere or gummed up piston rings.
If 0w30 vs. 0w40 does anything in this engine it would be 0w40 raises oil pressure and forms a thicker oil film on components and by being thicker and raising oil pressure it quietens the lifters down.
Im sure the bottom end and pistons dont give a shit if they get 0w30,0w40 or even 10w40 as long as there is oil pressure. This is an old diesel ive seen them opened up at 250k with only the piston skirt coating starting to wear off. They are just low stress engines that last mine makes 163hp... and its a 2.4L Diesel so 67hp per L of displacement no wonder I see these things psoted up for sale with 500.000km or so and good running engines.
You say viscosity doesn't matter only oil quality matters I agree 100% but in my case I have a tolerant engine anyways like its as simple as it can be just a crankshaft, 5 Cylinders, two camshafts up top and no timing chain to be worried about. Redline is at 4500rpm but realistically 4000rpm is the most you see it rev to even during aggressive driving thats where the trans shift point seems to be makes sense.
Yes I might go back to a high quality 0w30 just to see what its like.
Hasn't the quality of synthetic oils gone up, buddy?! The additives in quality synthetic oils have been improved a lot!
Quality did not go up for fake synthetic oil, only true synthetic oils quality went up
Hi sir, i drive a 2001 Toyota Camry 2.2 GX 4 speed auto that has the 5S-FE engine. The recommended oil in the owners manual is the 5w30. If i want to keep the engine long lasting which is the recommended engine oil please? Really appreciate your inputs. Thank you and have a great day.
My recommendation is to use this oil and I use exactly same oil in my 2011 Lexus. www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?zo=5257753
If there is wear and tear on the cylinder walls in a 2.5L you think flushing and switching to Amsoil might improve severe consumption? I went through 2 quarts on a 1200 mile trip. Could use the advise for the drive home. I found an Amsoil dealer near me. Thank you.
Did you read comments in the video?
I was really tired last AM, I drove 18 hours straight. I'm up and having coffee I'll read more now, thanks for the response, get back to you.
Truck driver?
No, just came out to get a truck ready for transport out of state. Personal vehicle I've had a few months. I'm a classic car and truck restorer.
Hey sorry, had to get some things done. Read all the comments. I'll switch to Amsoil from now on. I had never heard of the low evaporate rate before. I'm really grateful to you for passing down the knowledge, and more than happy to spend the extra money on a much better oil. Thanks man!
ive used Amsoil in my 1999 vw passat !.8t 300.000 miles put amsoil ln 2003 vw passat same engine i think 220000 mile 2016 vw golf 1.8 tsi engine 95.000 2011 bmw x3 25i 90.000 miles AND 2006 sprinter van diesel 300.000 miles all my cars use Amsoil euro 5w40
Do you rec'd changing the oil filter every oil change if it's rated for 15k (wix)? I've heard that the filter actually becomes more efficient if left in after one oil change, and changed every other oil change. Is that BS?
Perhaps it's most important to monitor the size of the 'chunks' that come out of the oil to determine if the filter can stay in another oil change?
Filter efficiency drops as it’s become clogged up with stuff.
Changing filter every other oil change is not smart because you are contaminating fresh oil with stuff that is trapped and now being dislodged and circulating again causing severe wear.
Every oil filter is rated for one oil change.
I’m an owner of 20k miles Lexus is300h 2021 engine 2AR-FSE, the manual recommends 0-W20, but dealership recommends 5-W30 because of “hot weather “ here in Thailand, which should I use? (Both fully synthetic)
How often do you change your oil?
@@repairvehicle 8000 KM
Change it every 5000km or 6 months which comes first and use 0w-20
Amsoil is great oil. If you are going to use it, get the Signature Series . The OE and XL are waste of time, might as well get any other full synthetic oil like penzoil or Mobil or valvoline.
You are first one to say negative about oe and XL, many people very impressed with performance of these two and how much better than competitors.
@NEGATIVE PROTON wtf u talking about boi? I use amsoil OE 5w30 and change it regularly every 6 months. I have no problems.
I cannot justify paying the price premium for the Amsoil Signature over the Amsoil XL because I change my oil every 5000 miles. I'm quite happy with Amsoil XL boosted, it has served me well.
I have Scion tC 2005 with the 2.4L 4 cyl. with 2AZ-FE what should I use? My engine just started to burn rich and oil consumption started ( 130k miles )
1st. I would use this engine cleaner before oil change, follow instructions on the bottle www.amsoil.com/p/engine-and-transmission-flush-flsh/?zo=5257753
2nd. If you want to lower oil consumption use this oil, Signature series www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2005/scion/tc/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
I see the Toyota piston at 13.36 is made by the German company Mahle probably in their US factory.
Do you drain some oil out before adding the flush so its not over full? and how long do you run it?
how to flush engine, how to remove carbon build up
ua-cam.com/video/Nh2awTJpxbg/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle thank you good sir!
I drive a 2018 Tundra with the 5.7. I heard you mention that if the manufacturer recommends a certain oil, (0w-20 in my case) then you should use it. I hear a lot of Tundra guys switching to 5w-30 synthetic and claiming the 0w-20 is only to meet emissions standards. They claim the 5w-30 protects the engine better, and even quiets the noisy lifters down.
Toyota originally recommended 5w-30 for the 5.7 Tundra, and still does for countries with less strict emission standards. And the Tundra has had zero design changes since they came out with the 5.7. I have been running the 0w-20, but what is the right oil for my 5.7? This is an often discussed topic, might make for a good video idea.
Toyota recommended 5w-30 none synthetic conventional oil until 2010. In 2011 they switched from 5w-30 to 0w-20 synthetic oil. 5w-30 conventional oil is garbage compared to 0w-20 synthetic oil. I have done video explaining in depth ua-cam.com/video/a_FCr7YktVc/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle Yeah but what about The heavier weight synthetic though. I’ve heard that too and I often wonder myself how much of that oil weight recommendation is based on emissions or cafe numbers
Thinner oil is needed due variable valve timing system. It has nothing to due with fuel economy. Thicker oil is number cause for variable valve timing system wearing out.
@@repairvehicle yeah we understand that part, the question we are asking is when the exact same car or truck specs 0w20 in the USA and then somewhere like Australia or middle east the exact same car or truck with the same engine has a range of oils based on temperature conditions say for instance it will recommend 5W30 as long as it doesn't get below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Well what are we to think of that? Or even the American owners manual will say "if 0w20 is not available X can be used but must be changed at the next oil change" now does it say that because it's a damage issue does it say that because it needs to be in compliance with emissions or a fuel economy Target, what's the trade off?
What type of oil in other countries specified? Synthetic oil or conventional oil?
What is the oil change intervals in those countries?
New subscriber here.We dont have amsoil here can i use fullu synthetic motul or lqui moly oil?
here where?
@@repairvehiclewhere they dont sell amsoil.Türkiye istanbul.
My car calls for either 5w-20 OR 0w-20 "for better fuel economy." I used 0w-20, drove 400 miles and spun a bearing. Engine was toast. Now I'm rebuilding the engine I swapped into my Gen 1 Scion tC and I've been only running 5w-20 and I'm obsessive about my oil changes, no more than 3500 miles at most, only twice. I don't know wtf happened to have be dealing with all this but I'm just about fed up with it. Been running royal purple solely since swap in 2017, I don't hot rod very often (but have and will continue to enjoy my vehicles and the FULL speedometer I paid for) and I drive both in town and freeway often, when I can actually drive the damn thing anyway. Not sure what more to do... I love rebuilding engines but this is ridiculous and expensive, especially being only a year into turning wrenches, in my garage and self-taught. I have no assistance, very little guidance and the internet lol. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I'm relying on it and a few others (I cross-check all over the place until I feel good about any given detail.)
How many miles were on the oil when spun the bearing?
@@repairvehicle 428. I had just changed my oil right before a 380 mile drive for my daughter's state championship tournament (they took first place and I wasn't able to be there when they lit up the school's torches and letter because I was on the side of the freeway.) I had no warning lights, no cel light, nada before it happened. Oil light didn't illuminate until AFTER the fact. I had enough time to say "that doesn't sound right, what the hell!!" Before my car just shut off and I had to battle the steering wheel to get onto the roadside. It started once after that but never again after. Pulled the oil pan and had quarter & dime sized chunks and glittery purple oil. Wasn't fun lol
So, there's no indication, oil is the cause of failure.
I never could see how such thin oil can give adequate lubrication. The technology-lovers and the Japan-lovers would scream and curse at me for not being madly in love with the latest technology and the latest Japanese, but it looks like I was right and they were wrong.
@@leslie-tolman Oil pressure GAUGES are way better than oil idiot lights for that very reason - idiot lights come on after the fact. Gauges, if you actually look at them, usually give you a warning before disaster strikes by reading lower than normal. A light won't come on until such time that a gauge would read zero, and that is often too late. The damage has already been done.
My 2003 Camry uses quite a bit of oil, about 1 quart every 700 miles.. I haven't tried Signature Series yet.. I believe it may be piston rings or the valve stem seals
Or can I use 0w20 or 0w30 in my 2.4 2AZFE?
Use correct viscosity recommended for your engine, 0w-20 and 0w-30 not for your engine
This is the correct viscosity for your engine www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2003/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
You have the same engine I have in my 04 Toyota. Switch over to Signature Series if you can right away or start with OE if you are skeptical and move up. It will cut your oil consumption rate. I was burning 1 quart every 1K miles.
Now I’m using about 2 quarts every 3K miles using OE and XL . I drive the vehicle hard also.
I just started using Signature Series and will see what my oil burning rate is in the next 8-10 weeks. If it’s the same, I will switch back to OE and continue 3K oil changes.
The last time the oil changes were done every 5K was at the dealership up to 90K and one time afterwards with Mobil 1.
I’ve been using Mobil 1 for the past 10 years mainly and started using Amsoil this year.
Currently at 209K miles.
Again, I was skeptical in using Amsoil.
Definitely switch over if you are hesitant. It’s better than Mobil 1 or any other synthetic from Walmart.
I would recommend using the Amsoil Power Foam if you can buy it. California is the only state that you cannot buy it. But when in Vegas, stop by the Amsoil Distribution Center and grab 2 while there.
Thank you for sharing your experience!
@repairvehicle does Toyota have a problem with the 5.7L in the Tundra? Mine has used some oil (burning it) it’s not terrible, but more then I’d like. I have done a Amsoil flush and switch to Amsoil signature series 0W20. I’ve lost about a 1/4 quart in a 1000 miles. What’s your thoughts?
What was the mileage on the truck when bought it?
What year is the truck.
Tundra don't have issues with oil consumption unless oil changes were not done on time.
@@repairvehicle where are you located? I would like you to check over my Tundra.
Switching to Amsoil stopped the oil consumption problem I was having. Still using 0W-20. 5,000 mile oil changes no oil loss! Amsoil saved my engine!
What about GDI engines? The oil industry specifically states there is a fuel dilution problem with these engines. They also produce soot, lots of it because of unburned fuel. My gm ectotec uses 5w20, but the dealer uses 0w20 when i get my oil changed. I live in Arizona, its hot, real hot. I have noticed more timing chan noise with the change, even though technically it shouldn't matter. It also uses about 1 quart every 5k. But runs fine. I change it every 6 months or every 5k. Not talking any chances.
Chevy runs on 5w-30 vs 0w-20, why GM owners switching to 5w-30 oil?
ua-cam.com/video/Lw0sWPBUxQE/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/FZEHL2gB7zk/v-deo.html rated for high heat
Honda civic 2021 in tropic country is use 0w20 or 5w30 better ?, honda recommend 0w16 , 0w20, 5w30 and which use of Ams, Mobil, Shell, Motul, castrol better ? Pls
What is the name of tropic county?
Turbo engine?
@@repairvehicle In VN, normal engine not turbo
0w-20 use Amsoil and change it more often
Toyota 2AZ-FE 2.4L 4cyl known for oil consumption.
Would you suggest Amsoil for this engine?
Thanks and subscribed :)
What year and mileage?
Hey Yukon, go thru and read my responses on this posting . I have several responses.
This morning after checking my oil after topping off 1/2 quart signature series last week and driving 200 miles total till this morning, dip stick is still at the FULL LEVEL. I had to check a couple times to confirm. I’m nearly at 1400-1500 miles with Signatures Series and so far only top off 1/2 quart.
Yes, Signature Series with Amsoil Preferred Customer membership is about $42. But you are getting Group 4 oil that outperforms.
Otherwise buying cheap conventional Castro GTX and topping off every 500-1000 miles is your cheap conventional option that a lot of mechanics say to do. But you are not fixing the problem. If you have no gasket leaks, use the Amsoil Engjne Flush. But if you do have oil leaks, avoid or be cautious with using the Flush. That’s my opinion on the flush.
@@repairvehicle 2004 Rav4, 115,000 miles
Yes, I do recommend amsoil
@@repairvehicle Appreciate your replying 😃
Hey boss. I have been using full synthetic mobil 1 oil change for 122k miles now. Would it be okay if I switch to Amsoil %100 full synthetic, or will it cause more damage/leaks then good?
2017 chevy malibu lt 1.5l turbocharger
Is your engine clean on the inside when removed oil cap?
yes, very well maintained@@repairvehicle
you mean clean as this engine on the inside ua-cam.com/video/L68MSBhiwAU/v-deo.html
if its clean on the inside definitely switch to Amsoil.
What about Camry 2014 in the middle east we have extremely hot weather like 122 F. Can I still use 0W20. The Owners manual suggested using a range from 0W20 up to 20W50?
Use viscosity per owners manual, but with high detergent
5w30 for your Camry. Full synthetic.
My 2016 TRD V6 4x4 has 192k miles is it ok if i use 5w20 and 5w30?
Trd what? Tacoma?
Mixing two together?
@@repairvehicle is using 5w30 vs 0w20 ok in a toyota
No it’s not ok, use correct viscosity. Why do you want to use thicker oil?
@@repairvehicle better lubrication on high miles
Thank you much for this video I have a 2007 RAV 4 2.4 ... its @ 264kms at the moment ..bought it with 241k ... it had short blk replacement when @ 100k.. I've had it for just abt a yr... I now have 5w50 german synthetic
wrong oil will cause severe engine wear.
@@repairvehicle I've ordered and received 0W 20 high-mileage synthetic from AMSOIL...I have noticed that the oil consumption is vastly reduced from about 6 liters between oil change(5000kms) to just about 1 and half liters...I spoke with Amsoil tech rep just after I ordered and he suggest I use the flush in my next oil change (within a week). I would like to know what your experience prompts you to forecast my switching to the 0W-20..? Please correct me if I am wrong ..from your video I understood that the 0w20 will enable better efficiency on the oil ring function,thus lengthening the life of my engine... I am just not clear on whether or not it will reduce my oil cunsumption. thoughts please
Hi.
I have a 2007 Honda crv petrol 2.0 automatic, 128000 km. Can you tell me please if I should use 0W20 or 5w30 Mobil one or Castrol in Eastern Europe. Thank you
How cold it gets in the winter time and hot in the summer time?
@@repairvehicle
Thank you for the reply.
In winter around - 3 degree very rare more then that and in summer arround 27 up to 35. In Romania.
You can use 0w-20 year round but change it more often or use 0w-20 in colder months and 5w-30!in warmer months
@@repairvehicle
Thank you for your advice.
You are welcome
1) Use oil with low evaporation rate.
2) Use oil cleaners ie engine flush
3) Use oil with high detergents
wich oil have high detergent for my sonata gdi 5w20
@@ayoubnapster5675 Amsoil
for sonata 2015 gdi 5w20 witch low oil evaporation rate change for it please
There's no such thing as 2w50
This oil has low evaporation rate www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-20-synthetic-motor-oil-alm/?code=ALMQT-EA&zo=5257753
hello, i have 2013 jazz honda 1.5 liter. my manual says use 0w20 but i use now 5w30. climate here is 2 season only. summer and rainy. is amsoil 5w30 good for every 5000km 0r 1 year replacement whichever comes first. 😊
Direct injection?
@repairvehicle its a gasoline indirect injection naturally aspirated PGM-FI SOHC. 😊
If you are using Amsoil signature series then running 5w-30 makes no difference
I have a 2000 Accord 2.3 ulev engine that uses 5W-30 and it burns a lot of oil. I can start using Amsoil oil brand, but do I also change the viscosity???
Also does it have to be Amsoil signature series or XL?
How many miles on it?
How often do you change oil?
What are you changing viscosity?
@@repairvehicle it has 160k. Changing every 4k. I’ve been changing it with 5w-30 which is what it calls for
You can use xl or signature series. Keep in mind that when it comes to oil change never go beyond 1 year on oil. 4k miles or 1 year which comes first.
www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2000/honda/accord/2-3l-4-cyl-engine-code-f23a5-y/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
@@repairvehicle ok so I keep using 5W-30?
Where do you live, what state?
Toyota doesn't care that they screwed a very loyal consumer base with their crap piston rings..nothing fixes this oil consumption issue except replacing the rings or the whole engine..can you say planned obsolescence !
You are wrong
Yeah i think mike is an idiot. The only reason engines get clogged and dirty because of carbon and start burning oil, is because the owner changes oil in longer intervals. Toyotas are the reliable car, most owners buy them because they dont care for maintenance or having to deal with random repairs 🙄
I'm trying the Berryman's B-12 process for my 2009 Camry. I'll know shortly if it worked or not. 🤞
@@ScottOstr I hope it works. I also have an 09 Camry with 2AZFE engine
Watch this video to learn if it works
ua-cam.com/video/ussxoGWA-5I/v-deo.html
I'd like to run an engine flush but have always heard horror stories about how the owners ended up with engine damage afterwards, saying the debris or sludge ended up in the "valleys" or something similar. Do you think it could have been because they used an acetone based flush? So far my oil consumption is decreasing with regular oil change interval every 3,000-3,500 miles including P.I. Gasoline Additive at that time. I figure if this trend continues and am able to achieve only 1 quart if oil consumption every 3,000 miles, then there shouldn't be a need for an engine flush. My main concern is wanting to avoid fine particulate buildup collecting in areas of the engine which may interfere with performance as well as potential damage.
Acetone based for sure.
Is there any inherent risk in performing an engine flush on a vehicle with VVT?
No, as long as you follow instructions on the bottle.
Have you gotten it down to 1 qt for every 3K miles??
I’m currently going thru 2 quarts every 3K miles. Haven’t done the engine flush yet, but it’s something I’m thinking of after 6 months of using Amsoil Oils and going thru OE, XL, and now Signature Series.
If my oil burn rate is the same with Signature Series in 8-10 weeks, I’m will look into doing the Engine Flush as the final process of trying to get whatever gunk is still inside the engine. But if my oil burn rate decreases to 1 1/2 quart, I will just continue using Signature Series and keep doing it that way.
I'm at about 2.75 quarts per 3k miles, but that's because I've been using the AC a lot. It'll be interesting to see how much better the oil consumption is once Summer is over and I don't need the AC anymore. Just out of caution, I'm going to continue using Signature Series along with regular oil changes every 3k to 3.5k miles instead of an oil flush, as I figure even if it's the slow route to cleaning out buildup, better safe than sorry.
It is only recently 0w20 has come out on the market, before that 5w30 - 5w40 - 10w40 were the most common. We did have oil burner back in the day, but that was due to owener not changeing their oil on time.
The conventional oil did it´s work just fine untill Turbo Chargers came on the market, then we started getting problems, conventional oil could not handle the high heat being produced , even with oil coolers the oil was breaking down too fast.
It took a few years for the oil companies too catch up with the new turbo engines and fill their needs.
The "EXTENDED OIL LIFE" came about do to enviormental issues, so the oil companies had to come up with a formula were their oil could protect the engine for longer periods, at least as long as the factory garantee was valid.
Todays oils and filters will last a good 10,000km (6000mi) depending on driving condition and how worn the motor is.
The secret to a loooong life for your engine, "KEEP YOUR OIL CLEAN!!"
Use the oil drop test on a white piece of paper, when you see BLACK SPOTS in the oil it´s time to change the oil and filter.
According to the sae 0w-20 has been on the market since 2002. Almost every brand had turbocharged vehicles in 90s. www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2002-01-1636/
@@repairvehicle When your over 70 0w20 is pretty recent.
In diesel engines, will the EGR system have anything to do with the soot deposit on the piston rings, or is it only the valves in the EGR system that are affected with soot build up from the burning of the exhaust gasses?
Egr system has nothing to due with, because few gas engines have egr systems too.
What about older models like a 2001 Chevy Silverado v8 5.3l
What about it?
@@repairvehicle which oil lowers oil consumption
Amsoil signature series has lowest oil evaporation rate and pennzoil platinum ultra old formulation from 2013 was very close to Amsoil. I cannot confirm if it's the same with latest pennzoil oil ultra platinum
@@repairvehicle thanks
That was pretty damn good
Ok, just changed oil for the first time using ASMOil. Will follow up soon.
What do you have and mileage?
@@repairvehicle 2014 scion tc manual transmission (2arfe engine), 295,856 miles
@wes1934 which amsoil and viscosity?
I also used the engine flush per your rec'd. the asmoil is 0w20, I ordered it after you had rec'd the 5w-20... so it's probably not optimal, but hopefully better than the mobile 1 0w20 I was using before...
@@repairvehicle high mileage 0w20
If its already burning oil is synthetic a soil going to make a difference?
What did I say about synthetic oil ?
@@repairvehicle while I appreciate that you took the time to answer me I did watch the video as best I could. Car talk is not my typical language and this video was challenging for me to follow which is why I asked this question. If you could let me know what oil is best to use I would appreciate it as I need to add some as soon as possible.
Best oil to use? Oil that has lowest evaporation rate.
This video has additional details. How to lower oil consumption. How to prevent new car from burning oil?
ua-cam.com/video/SSR4y2BvQZ8/v-deo.html
how many miles should you go with the 0w 20 ?
It depends on the vehicle and how it’s being used? Also, depends on brand and type?
What tipe of oil for 2015 Acura RDX n how long change again ?
For purposes are you using your acura?
How often do you want to change oil?
How many miles do you drive a year?
Do you want best engine protection or just okay?
How about the Toyota 2KD-FTV Engine (2.5 D-4D). What kind of oil do you think it should use and how often? It sits in a Toyota Hiace 2007. I am not sure we can get that oil you are recommending here. My garage usually uses Mobil1. I don't drive the car much, so the mileage is not high for a 2007 model.
It depends where you live, in hot climate recommendation by Toyota sometime different vs colder climate.
@@repairvehicle - I know. Here it is neither hot nor cold :-)
We have a few days of snow during winther, but that is it. Our summers are not very hot. The average temperature is around 15 to 20 degrees celcius, with the occational days of closer to 30 degrees.
What kind of oil is available in your area?
@@repairvehicle - My garage is usually using Mobil1. I am in Europe. It is very expensive to change the oil and oil filter on my car here.
Full synthetic oil or conventional?
2000 Toyota Corolla 87k miles, no leaks, or oil burning yet, should I switch to 5w30 synthetic?
does your engine look like this on the inside ua-cam.com/video/L68MSBhiwAU/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle pretty close, some light stains. Car has been sitting for 2 years
@@austinp3822 , there is a good chance oil can start leaking through the seals. Synthetic oil will remove buid up and expose dry seals and oil can start leaking. Some synthetic oils will for sure make worse in terms of leaking oil, other synthetic can help but not sure how much. Don’t have any experience to provide solid answer.
@@repairvehicle ok thank you
No leaks, no oil burning? Continue doing what you're doing. Don't change anything. Use the oil that was in the car if you know what it was, and change every 5k miles.
I have a 98 honda civic that blows smoke like snoop dogg. is it too late to avoid re ringing my pustons or will AMSOIL fix the issue?
Mileage?
How often do you change your oil?
How much oil it burns?
When you remove oil cap, engine stained or covers in black carbon?
@@repairvehicle about 160k miles. Changed every 3k. but not sure how often it was changed before I bought used. Definitely black when I open the cap. engine oil turns black in less than 500 miles.
At this point Amsoil oil is not going to help much, engine is too neglected.
but if your engine is worn already, thicker oil is better to slow down the oil consumption right?
How do you know your engine is worn?
@@repairvehicle okay, have a daughter in high school. I bought her a 2007 Toyota Camry. 2.4. It was just $1,000 and it runs like it's brand new and looks brand new but I seem to have to add oil at least once a month or every other month. Which is about 800 mi of driven. I have been changing the oil myself. I've been thinking about using the thicker oil or a oil additive. But I would like to have your thoughts
@Dee--Jay how many miles on it? What brand of oil are you using? What viscosity are you using?
Is your engine looking like this
ua-cam.com/video/L68MSBhiwAU/v-deo.html
@@repairvehicle The mileage is around 202k miles. It was around 190k when I bought it and it uses 5W30 castor oil. No I just checked the engine, it's not that clean on the inside. There is some dark stain marks. It's not sludge but it's just seem like stains because when I touch it, it feels like it's a part of the engine or it's etched into the engine on the inside
Wait so your saying that a thinner oil reduces oil consumption? I have an 02 Lexus IS300 and the owners manual says that I can run 5w30 or 10w30 5w30 is preferred, Toyota released tbs stating that 5w20 oil can also be used in my particular engine ( 2jz )
It's not what I said
My Honda has been maintained religiously and with oil called for and synthetic still burns oil due have 240,000 on it now but uses less oil when I use 5/30 synthetic blend then when I use 0/20 full synthetic usually consumes it when I’m getting closer to the 3000 mile mark
My motor is clean on the inside cause I have opened it to do my valve clearances and my timing chains
Clean like brand new or coffee stained color? How often were you changing oil?
@@repairvehicle when new every time it called the light for it and now every 3000 miles
Lack of oil changes. Should have changed oil every 3k miles. Your engine has been neglected.
@@repairvehicle it’s been changed every 3000
Which is the service time/miles for a 0w20?
Will be the same for highway use and city basis use?
BimmerN53
What year is your bmw?
@@repairvehicle 2008
Bmw doesn't recommend 0w-20. I don't have access to bmw owners manual, they might have other viscosity recommendations. If you can share your vin, I can look it up. With Highway driving oil will last much longer than city driving. Driving a lot of time in city will cause oil to go bad much quicker. Also, brand of oil plays very important role in oil life.
I have a Toyota Avensis 2AZ FSE . I always experience high oil consumption ,yet no smoke or soaked plugs.
What can I do ....am in nigeria
Use high evaporation oil
Part of the story that your not considering is newer cars have EGR systems that the older cars did not have. That’s really where part of the clogging is coming from
Older cars have egr system too, going back to 2007 or even Older
There was EGR's even back on late 1970,s vehicles, possibly on most ever since then.
Can I use 0w-30 instead of 0w-20
In what?
@@repairvehicle 2014 Dodge Dart 2.4
@@rickyg4800 , why do you want to use thicker oil? How often do you change your oil?
@@repairvehicle I always have to add 1\2 a quart every month in this car first time using 0w-20 and never had issues in other cars using 5w-30
Every 5,000 to 6,000
hello i have 2KD diesel engine with 130K km consuming around 200-500 ml after 3300km trip is that normal? i mean still acceptable
Give me more details about your vehicle and maintenance
@@repairvehicle its toyota fortuner oil change every 10k km with filter
@@repairvehicle using 5w-30 castrol Magnatec
No it’s not normal, try different brand of oil
Hi can I used AMS oil 0w-20 in Toyota Prius 2005 full synthetic it's 5W-30 1.5 engine
Factory recommended viscosity is 5w-30. You can use Amsoil 5w-30, don't use 0w-20 in your prius. 0w-20 is for newer prius.
Thank you I will use AMS oil 5W 30 full synthetic thanks
Is there other issues I can ask you or only related to engine
@@lgmobile7587 go ahead and ask me
The best and cheapest solution to oil burning is pistons soak with Berryman B12. Seaform and MMO don't work.
You mean this way
ua-cam.com/video/ussxoGWA-5I/v-deo.html
Did it work for you?
@repairvehicle Yes, it reduces oil burning significantly. The 2.4 2AZ-FE oil burning when down from a quart every 300-500 miles to 1/3 of a quart every 1,000 miles. My process of B12 soaked. 1)Drain oil and keep it unplug with an oil catcher underneath. )Remove spark plugs 3) Rotate Crankshaft to even out pistons 4)Pour in B12 into the pistons 5)Rotate Crankshaft 5 times on every refill of B12 6)Repeat steps 4 and 5 for 12-24 hours. Once done, put everything back and put in new oil. The first cranking will be a bit tough and generates lots of smoke.
Why would it smoke? Must be plenty of b12 still in cylinder and can cause hydro lock damage
@repairvehicle Yeah, either make sure B12 drains all out or clean it up afterwards and add a little oil on all pistons so it can start easier.
hi hello any help please 🙏 i have sonata 2015 gdi my engine starts oil consumption 1 quarter every 600 mille whta i gonna do please i really appreciate give step.by step what ingonna do thanks i use castrol full synthetic 5w20
How often were you changing oil? What is the mileage?
4,000 miles 130.000 mills 5w20 castrol full synthetic high mileage
Does your engine has turbo?
Does your engine look like this engine on the inside? ua-cam.com/video/Ta1tUKqwjeQ/v-deo.html
no turbo on it sonata 2015 se 2.4 4cylinder i never open the engine
You have never removed oil cap either to look on the inside?
I would rebuild my engine specially if its a 10k engine like diesels. Why? because only you know how the engine has been treated! Unless you replace it with a brand new one!
My car is 2007 Camry 134000 miles and burn oil to fast which oil you recommend
Signature series oil if you have 4 cylinder www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2007/toyota/camry/2-4l-4-cyl-engine-code-2az-fe-4/?volume=us-volume&zo=5257753
So use a 0w/20 Synthetic on the 2az-fe engine to slow down oil consumption? That’s better than 5w/30? Just confirming.
Use required viscosity, but use oil with low evaporation rate to lower consumption.
@@repairvehicle Basically Amsoil is the way to go! I just wanted to slow down the engine oil burn off on this crappy engine and if 0w/20 was another option to go with.
Been using XL lately and will step it up to Signature Series soon. Thanks for confirming.
Keep posting these amazing videos, very helpful!
I don't see what the big deal is. Just top up some oil. it'll only cost a few more bucks.
To me it’s no big deal but a veichle shouldn’t burn oil with a dislike engine I have built 383 stroker motor and Chevy 400 small blocks they burn oil even having built them but they are higher Erving motors its understandable
You should not be using anything lighter or thicker to what the manufacturer recommends as you will starve your oil pump from circulating through your engines components.
Lighter, no but slightly thicker, sometimes. Many engines out there took 5w-20 just one model year before the manufacturer spec'd 0w-20. I think running 5w-20 or even a mixture to make 0w-25/5w-25 is fine, and actually better in the summer months or for work engines.
@caseyalexander2244 do not mix two together, terrible idea. Each oil formulation meets specific requirements, when two mixed together, now it doesn’t meet any requirements
👍
Left you a like for that list of comments :)
Gotta burn oil to make money
Once again full Syn oil is not 100 % syn. Oil such as amsoil.
Hi
Hello
@@repairvehicle my car is Corolla 2001 1nz engine, found out that the mechanic put 20w50 kindly advise on the best oil to use for next service, location Kenya, Africa
@earnestketer3694 do not use 20w-50
@@repairvehicle how about 10w30 or 15w40
@earnestketer3694 10w-30