Good video but I was wondering if you can advise me on how to change the drive belt on this CD player please? I think I need to remove the cd tray first but that alone seems quite a task. Any help would be great thanks.
This video was shot 7 years ago, so I do not really remember. But from what I can see the belt is easily accessible from the top. The motor just unclips. There should be a way o f separating the cogs so that you can insert a new belt. I can't tell you exactly, because I don't have one of these on hand. If there isn't, then mechanism removal is just 3 screws, but admittedly, there can be an issue with the laser ribbon cable unplugging.
I was looking at this and the old philips that used to cost 2k, in the end after hearing people that had both and the KI, they thought the KI was better, I settled for the 6000Ki, I think the electronics look better in that KI unit, the transport obviously is not, however, you can easily replace it for £15, but if that fails, you have a repair job to do.
I had a question in my email account from jonathan kline asking "Where did you find those replacement bulbs?" Well, from my local electronics shop called Altronics. But these are standard bulbs available in every electronics shop. Just measure the voltage that is supplying them because I no longer remember whether it was 5V or 12V. I think in one of these players I fitted some resistors to limit the current and LEDs instead of bulbs.
Another gorgeous vintage unit from Marantz, what do you think this or a CD 94 mk2? i know the mk2 has the dual S1 chips and the 4 belt CDM1 as compared to the 1 chip S1 and the mk2 CDM 1 transport of the 80 but the 80 appears heavier and copper shielding and maybe bslightly better caps etc, value your opinion.....
Pete, whereas I had both machines in my workshop, they were not here at the same time so it is very hard to make a proper comparison. CDM-1 in 94Mk2 is considered better because of its Carl-Zeiss optic lens, but the whole mechanism is not as reliable as CDM-1Mk2 (which is Japanese name for metal version of CDM-4 - the most reliable mech I have seen to date). Two DAC chips can certainly be better than one for reducing distortion but as always, it is all in implementation. 94 Mk2 certainly looks better on paper but it would be interesting to listen to both at the same time. As far as S1 and S2 chips, they are still only TDA-1541 which were more linear than others and were selected by hand during quality control. There must be thousands of TDA-1541 out there which are even more linear but owners simply do not know for they have been installed in ordinary, mid-range gear.
I have a CD 80 that I've had for about 15 years. Had been great but recently it has started producing pops and cracks and small noticeable gaps in playback when used as a transport. Once the unit has been on a while these disappear. Would this be power supply related or something else. The laser seems fine as it plays any disc and detects discs very quickly. I'd love to get it repaired
I have a similar problem with my Sony X7ESD but no time to sort it out. You're right that it's likely to be either a Power Supply problem or a poor filtering due to aged capacitors. Will let you know what it was when I fix mine :-) Luckily for me, I have 2 dozen of CD players to choose from! Including currently this Wadia 16.
@@hear-net-au I've had to revert to my Marantz CD52 mk2 SE for the time being. It's in perfect working order butt I'd prefer to be using the Cd80. If you find out let me know. Thanks
Thank you for generously sharing hrough UA-cam. I may need your assistance one day. Is there a email that I an contact you when the time comes. Thank you very much.
I have one! It''s been stored for a while now (in its original box and styrofoam). Before I fire it up again ... should I be worried at all about any of the electrolytics? And for the thrift store guy: you'll be pleased to hear that I paid £500 for mine in 1989. Gulp.
Fire it up and see what happens. I would not be worried ahead of time. The 3 CD-80s I worked on did not need any capacitors replacement. Having said that, I have just fixed CD-85 which is in many ways similar (same mechanism, DAC chip but wooden instead of the heavy cast side panels of the CD-80). It did need the replacement of capacitors in the power supply because it was spinning the CD the wrong way... Having replaced all of the caps on the PSU board, I just could not leave 20 more of the same ones on the servo/audio board. I do not re-cap stuff for the sake of it. But when I find even one of them leaky, all of this same type have to go (even though the player worked fine with the other caps doing only the supply filtering job). The trick is to get from eBay one of those $25 component testers which among other things check capacitor's ESR and voltage drop (following a pulse). An deterioration in either of these parameters, this and all of the caps of the same type and value need to go. But do not replace all the quality parts - like in the case of the CD-85 the ELNA Cerafine caps. They tested just fine.
Wow. 500 pounds. That's crazy. That being said, these CD players are still excellent, even after over 30 years later. You should have the Marantz version of this machine right? I believe these retailed for 800 USD. I can't imagine how much the MSRP would have been up here in Canada. The Philips axial capacitors on the board for the CDM1 MK II are known to go bad after some time. Usually if you find one of these CDM1 MK IIs that isn't reading discs, those caps will be the cause.
Not specifically but I would imagine, that - as was the case with TDA-1541A - where the best ones that were the most linear, were given a single crown and even better ones again double crown and then sold at higher prices, other manufacturers are doing the same thing. So I think this is Quality picking of better ones from the production run to be fitted in premium units.
Great find. I wish I was this lucky. Only ever happened to me once, when some guy on a local audio site gave me Lavry DA-10 DAC with only a minor fault.
@@1980sGamer Are you a subscriber? Most people do not subscribe, which is a pity, because I need about 200 more to be properly indexed (or so my friend who is into web optimisation says)
Good video but I was wondering if you can advise me on how to change the drive belt on this CD player please? I think I need to remove the cd tray first but that alone seems quite a task. Any help would be great thanks.
This video was shot 7 years ago, so I do not really remember. But from what I can see the belt is easily accessible from the top. The motor just unclips. There should be a way o f separating the cogs so that you can insert a new belt. I can't tell you exactly, because I don't have one of these on hand.
If there isn't, then mechanism removal is just 3 screws, but admittedly, there can be an issue with the laser ribbon cable unplugging.
beautiful unit
I was looking at this and the old philips that used to cost 2k, in the end after hearing people that had both and the KI, they thought the KI was better, I settled for the 6000Ki, I think the electronics look better in that KI unit, the transport obviously is not, however, you can easily replace it for £15, but if that fails, you have a repair job to do.
I had a question in my email account from jonathan kline asking "Where did you find those replacement bulbs?"
Well, from my local electronics shop called Altronics. But these are standard bulbs available in every electronics shop. Just measure the voltage that is supplying them because I no longer remember whether it was 5V or 12V. I think in one of these players I fitted some resistors to limit the current and LEDs instead of bulbs.
Size-wise they are 8mm long and 3mm wide glass bubbles.
@@hear-net-au Thank you very much.
Great job! Amazing unit!
Another gorgeous vintage unit from Marantz, what do you think this or a CD 94 mk2? i know the mk2 has the dual S1 chips and the 4 belt CDM1 as compared to the 1 chip S1 and the mk2 CDM 1 transport of the 80 but the 80 appears heavier and copper shielding and maybe bslightly better caps etc, value your opinion.....
Pete, whereas I had both machines in my workshop, they were not here at the same time so it is very hard to make a proper comparison. CDM-1 in 94Mk2 is considered better because of its Carl-Zeiss optic lens, but the whole mechanism is not as reliable as CDM-1Mk2 (which is Japanese name for metal version of CDM-4 - the most reliable mech I have seen to date). Two DAC chips can certainly be better than one for reducing distortion but as always, it is all in implementation. 94 Mk2 certainly looks better on paper but it would be interesting to listen to both at the same time. As far as S1 and S2 chips, they are still only TDA-1541 which were more linear than others and were selected by hand during quality control. There must be thousands of TDA-1541 out there which are even more linear but owners simply do not know for they have been installed in ordinary, mid-range gear.
Had mine since 1989 and has yet to have any problems, replaced the bulbs with LED's.
According to the schematic the bulbs are 12v 100mA. Which LED's did you use as I need to replace mine.
@@Chaggy1978 I used 5mm white diffused LED's with a 1k resistor and a 12v green strip further back and this really lights up the disc.
I have a CD 80 that I've had for about 15 years. Had been great but recently it has started producing pops and cracks and small noticeable gaps in playback when used as a transport.
Once the unit has been on a while these disappear.
Would this be power supply related or something else. The laser seems fine as it plays any disc and detects discs very quickly.
I'd love to get it repaired
I have a similar problem with my Sony X7ESD but no time to sort it out. You're right that it's likely to be either a Power Supply problem or a poor filtering due to aged capacitors. Will let you know what it was when I fix mine :-) Luckily for me, I have 2 dozen of CD players to choose from! Including currently this Wadia 16.
@@hear-net-au I've had to revert to my Marantz CD52 mk2 SE for the time being. It's in perfect working order butt I'd prefer to be using the Cd80. If you find out let me know. Thanks
Thank you for generously sharing hrough UA-cam. I may need your assistance one day. Is there a email that I an contact you when the time comes. Thank you very much.
ads@amnet.net.au
I have one! It''s been stored for a while now (in its original box and styrofoam). Before I fire it up again ... should I be worried at all about any of the electrolytics?
And for the thrift store guy: you'll be pleased to hear that I paid £500 for mine in 1989. Gulp.
Fire it up and see what happens. I would not be worried ahead of time. The 3 CD-80s I worked on did not need any capacitors replacement.
Having said that, I have just fixed CD-85 which is in many ways similar (same mechanism, DAC chip but wooden instead of the heavy cast side panels of the CD-80).
It did need the replacement of capacitors in the power supply because it was spinning the CD the wrong way... Having replaced all of the caps on the PSU board, I just could not leave 20 more of the same ones on the servo/audio board.
I do not re-cap stuff for the sake of it.
But when I find even one of them leaky, all of this same type have to go (even though the player worked fine with the other caps doing only the supply filtering job).
The trick is to get from eBay one of those $25 component testers which among other things check capacitor's ESR and voltage drop (following a pulse). An deterioration in either of these parameters, this and all of the caps of the same type and value need to go.
But do not replace all the quality parts - like in the case of the CD-85 the ELNA Cerafine caps. They tested just fine.
Wow. 500 pounds. That's crazy. That being said, these CD players are still excellent, even after over 30 years later. You should have the Marantz version of this machine right? I believe these retailed for 800 USD. I can't imagine how much the MSRP would have been up here in Canada. The Philips axial capacitors on the board for the CDM1 MK II are known to go bad after some time. Usually if you find one of these CDM1 MK IIs that isn't reading discs, those caps will be the cause.
Did you know whats the “Q-selection“ on the Dac chip means?
Not specifically but I would imagine, that - as was the case with TDA-1541A - where the best ones that were the most linear, were given a single crown and even better ones again double crown and then sold at higher prices, other manufacturers are doing the same thing. So I think this is Quality picking of better ones from the production run to be fitted in premium units.
I picked up the Philips variant of this player for $10 CA at a thrift store. Yes. I'm serious.
Great find. I wish I was this lucky. Only ever happened to me once, when some guy on a local audio site gave me Lavry DA-10 DAC with only a minor fault.
@@hear-net-au Only just seeing this now. Thanks UA-cam for not notifying me. That DAC looks super cool. Good job on fixing it. :)
@@1980sGamer Are you a subscriber? Most people do not subscribe, which is a pity, because I need about 200 more to be properly indexed (or so my friend who is into web optimisation says)
@@hear-net-au UA-cam is supposed to notify you if someone responds to your comment. I may have gotten one, but I just ended up missing it.
Marantz
philips copy
Not as much a copy as wholly owned subsidiary. Or a brand name acquired long time ago by Philips.