I never realized how in depth and complicated putting a logo on a guitar is.. it’s very interesting and now I have a new found appreciation every-time I look at the logos on my guitars haha
Thank you very much for creating this *long-length* video series. Please make more videos/video series like these to go along with your short videos. This is _definitely_ a thumbs up!
Thanks! We are working on several more. We are filming an aerosol spray finishing course next week with the help of Chris and Matt from Driftwood guitars, Erick is working on a DIY fretwork series, Brock is working on a scratch build electric guitar starting from lumber. These are all in various stages of doneness, but hopefully they will all be out by the end of the year.
This is BY FAR the best instructional video series on inlay work! Every tiny little detail that is shown and discussed, great video work - Excellent. As an amateur guitar builder (don't dare to call myself a luthier...), this is so helpful. Many thanks from the Netherlands!!
I am not sure I even know how to properly "thank you", Craig Lavin! This video is a gift, pure and simple. Offering your kindness, manner, and expertise is extraordinarily generous of you. As a Master Class, this is quite likely my favorite-ever presentation.
Greetings Craig, I like your work. I got a lot out of the materials portion of this series. Kirinite!... Yea! I process most of my inlay material from whole shell or scale scrap. Here's a tip back. For all who love inlay work a Taurus Ring Saw is an amazing tool.
Thanks Craig, great tips and tricks. Was great that you brought up blade dulling. I buy multiple dozens and change out blades as soon as i feel them dulling. Love the stickit on an exacto blade. I'll be using that tip.
WOW, Craig!!! I just stumbled upon this tonight - this is GREAT!!! Probably one of the best tutorials on doing an inlay I’ve ever seen! So many practical tips/techniques I'd never heard before…wish I’d known about these earlier when I was doing my instrument inlays! THANKS!
Thanks so much for this great video. I've done some inlay work using pre cut geometric pearl shapes and other shapes from SM. Never had the confidence to cut my own, but years ago I was given some old beautiful pearl sheets that now I may try cutting. I was told how dangerous it is the breathe in the dust. G10 is used heavily for knife making which I am also familiar with. I also do engine turning like you see on the plates of an old pocket watch. I always wanted to a engine turned guitar inlay.
Wow Craig, that is most interesting and nerve racking as hell. That is a true art to hand cut the pearl or any of the materials and i'm sure takes many tries to get good. Well explained vid for head stock inlay.
I don't do inlays, but this was very interesting to watch. What's more, sharing your artistry in such great detail is very generous and cool. Thank you!
I have drills much smaller! They are for drilling holes in circuit boards or cleaning out existing through plated ones, for hair thin wires. You need much higher speeds for tiny drills, and slower penetration, to not break or bend them: the one you used was bent and wobbled, and can cause trouble. My jewelers saw is a great one made in Germany, but yours looks much groovier with the rounded back.
I work as a traditional luthier's assistant and I was surprised to find that these saws come as hand tools too. Hadn't given it much thought, but of course the huge machine I use are a recent addition to this art. Since I don't have much money, a little saw like this would make much more sense for personal projects
I'll never work with inlays, but man your video was amazing. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge, and I have to say, your workshop looks like a very fun place to be/work!
Nice tutorial Craig. Good to see someone that likes to do detail work. You should mention the Opti-Visor you are using to see those tiny parts. I'd be lost without mine.
26:50 Out of curiosity, why did you put the dots in the holes first and then apply the CA over the top of them, instead of putting glue in the hole and then insert the dots? I would think you'd get better bonding if the glue was in the hole, instead of hoping it wicks down the side of the dots.
@@craiglavin1436 Good to know. I was thinking more about woodworking where you would coat your pieces first, before joining them. I hadn't considered the nature of the ca being that thin. Thanks for this series. I've followed StewMac since the 80s when I used to get the catalogs in the mail with all the tips and tricks. I started documenting all of those tips in a journal. Thank you so much for keeping up the great work
Thanks for the video. You cover a lot of information without ever being boring. Unfortunately I don't have the time to do this, but considering the tiny size of the drill bit I think I'd be unhappy about the amount of wobble in the chuck.
Another great tutorial. I wouldn't have considered doing a headstock inlay until now. My only criticism is the music in the background is a little intrusive. Thanks Craig.
Thanks Craig. Three amazing episodes. I took a risk and did my inlay on an existing headstock. It's turned out great. Not sure if I can share a picture ! I've gone for a logo that references a cocktail I quite like and think Bette Davis drank them as well !
A thin piece of model aircraft plywood glued onto the back of the pearl will help reduce part breakages and can be removed by soaking in a jar of acetone overnight. Cheers Andrew
@@craiglavin1436 I thought you might!! Cheers Andrew ps, I do it with a cnc machine takes longer but doesn't waste so much pearl, but also not creatively satisfying, but the end result is spot on.
Extremely usable information! I wish I would have seen this several inlays ago! I would like to add to the StewMac saw I have, where can I get a pearl saw like the one you were using?
I'm thinking Mr. Levin would not suffer a jacked up drill press featuring a huge margin of error for "drills where I thought it would drill but it didn't."
@@davidsaliba9209 Ok, first and foremost, this wasn’t some kind of accusation that this guy is a hack because it looked like the drill press had a smidge of runout. He’s a mind-boggling artist, full stop. That said, if you look at 13:31, and watch the jaws of the chuck against the still background of the template, you’ll see it’s got some movement. It clearly ain’t the end of the world and doesn’t stop this guy from producing top-level work, but I’m just saying that I noticed it.
@@jeffmansfield914 Hi Guys. The drill I have in my shop is way more stable than this one, and its not in production anymore. I didn't fly it out with me for the shoot. That said Stew Mac was kind enough to get this one added in for the shoot when I stated we needed one, and yes it was a bit wonky. All in a days work. This wasn't filmed in my shop, we "re created" it at the Stew Mac studios. We produced as good a product as we could with me using some tools for the first time ever. Hope you enjoy this service from Stew Mac and thanks for watching!
I did my first inlay with Mother of Pearl (MOP) and was quite impressed with my own results. The greatest frustration I found was using your recommendation to outline the MOP on my veneer, in my case rosewood, with a lead pencil (0.3mm lead). I had a tough time seeing the outline under the StewMac router base, even with my shop's LED lighting, and incandescent desk lamp and a good quality LED headlamp and head mounted magnifier. It occurs to me that lighting on the router base would help. Any suggestions?
So...StewMac, gonna source the drill press, bits, and that amazing jeweler's saw? That mini drill press would be great for so many around-the-shop functions.
@@craiglavin1436 Thank you!! That entire video is outstanding. The saw seems like a completely advanced version of the small hacksaw, plus the tensioning adjustment is excellent.
@@craiglavin1436 Micro Mark has moved on to some pretty amazing stuff!! They should contact you for your video. I had no idea things like that existed until I watched this video.
Kinda comical, But there's more than one way to skin a cat.I appreciate all the instruction,My skills must lack because i routed and glued the Abilone shell to the Headstock and did an overlay,Thank you,I wouldn't have even attempted such precision work without Thanking you for inspiring me to attempt it! An overlay gives you a second chance,and after it is glued up and sanded Down is Definately good enough for me!
Thanks for sharing your video! Great work! I would like to know if it's ok to apply some finish to the headstock (tru-oil or other)... would it stain the inlay? Thanks!
Depends on your inlay material, porous things drink in the color, non porous don't. If you finish has a color that will effect the inlay by tinting over it as a tinted finish.
@@craiglavin1436 Thanks Craig, for your answer! I guessed so, and then I thought to sand the inlay, but it will be inevitable to sand the wood too, so I don't know how they do it. Anyway, thanks again! Best regards!
Thank you Craig and team, that is a great series. I’m having trouble finding a router flexi-shaft that is compatible with the Stewmac router base, which one are you using in the video please?
how do you spell the material you mentioned as Keranite? I know that's not it - I can't locate anything even similar to that spelling and don't see that masecraft supply has it listed? Thanks. Great video and I'm on to watch the second and third video
Considering how much effort goes into doing inlays, make sure you spend an hour of design for every hour of production. I see so many gorgeous guitars-even from celebrated luthiers-where they just use terrible typography or lettering and then position it so poorly. It kills me.
It’s probably not important to try to impress the inlay art community. Ultimately, a design and inlay job should impress the creating artist and their client.
I cant find the green "curinite" (spelling???) anywhere (7:45) - anyone know how to spell that? I must not be close because google ins't bringing up anything.
At the chance of never getting answered, could you not do say a logo backwards so the face is in less danger of getting compromised during the template removal?
whats the Glue brand called? I searched for Testor Glue in amazon and it shows a color red tube, i think it got different types but i cannot find that color green tube
@@cabronismo oh okay. My bad. It’s a gooey type of quick set glue, different than standard super glue. Im not sure if Amazon shows availability to you, but I’ve found Starbond, Model Expo, and Gluemasters that have that type of glue.
Laser doesn't work but CNC does, and it's only saving time up until a certain complication level. At this stage yes, the more pieces the longer it takes to do either way.
clicked on this thinking, im not going to watch all of this, 30 min is too long. at best, ill ff through the slow parts. now, here i am, 30 min later, haveing watched every second. my only question, if i just carved out that entire "stew mac" i would be scared shitless to break it getting the paper off. why not just inlay it with the paper and sand it off once its secured in the wood?
Thanks so much Craig for sharing your decades of experience with us on this video series.
It's an honor can't wait to do more.
Craig's work is always stunning... And the videos were perfect.
How can I see some of craig's more intricate work?
How to dissolve the glue when you can't use acetone?
Craig, I've watched your master class in inlay and have to say you're the best instructor, at anything, I've ever seen in action. Loved it!
Thanks so much 🙂
I would follow a channel about this stuff religiously. Amazing!
Master Class in inlay artistry... worth its weight in gold! Thanks for doing these!
I never realized how in depth and complicated putting a logo on a guitar is.. it’s very interesting and now I have a new found appreciation every-time I look at the logos on my guitars haha
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
The logos on mass produced guitars are cut using machines so you get thousands of logos faster. This is more for custom/personalized jobs.
wow. now this is a experienced man with talent!!! just wow with detail and expertise 100-100
probably the best inlay lesson ive seein in YT, and believe me ive seen it all but this is the best and its in 3 parts !!!
WOW ! Your the first I've seen explain in such a way , that it makes it sooo interesting and obtainable ! great great teacher and vid. !
Studio workshop 🤣. But yes it's fun!
Thank you very much for creating this *long-length* video series. Please make more videos/video series like these to go along with your short videos. This is _definitely_ a thumbs up!
Thanks! We are working on several more. We are filming an aerosol spray finishing course next week with the help of Chris and Matt from Driftwood guitars, Erick is working on a DIY fretwork series, Brock is working on a scratch build electric guitar starting from lumber. These are all in various stages of doneness, but hopefully they will all be out by the end of the year.
This is BY FAR the best instructional video series on inlay work! Every tiny little detail that is shown and discussed, great video work - Excellent. As an amateur guitar builder (don't dare to call myself a luthier...), this is so helpful. Many thanks from the Netherlands!!
Glad it was helpful!
I am not sure I even know how to properly "thank you", Craig Lavin! This video is a gift, pure and simple. Offering your kindness, manner, and expertise is extraordinarily generous of you. As a Master Class, this is quite likely my favorite-ever presentation.
Thanks so much!
Wow. What a fantastic series on how to do inlay work. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise with us. It's greatly appreciated!
Fantastic! Thanks to Craig & the fine people at Stewmack. So informitive!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job on this video. Nice to see an extended length video series that goes in depth on the issue.
Wow...!😮
Craig is an amazing tutor.
So much detail and precision. And patience!!!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks
Greetings Craig, I like your work. I got a lot out of the materials portion of this series. Kirinite!... Yea! I process most of my inlay material from whole shell or scale scrap. Here's a tip back. For all who love inlay work a Taurus Ring Saw is an amazing tool.
This is its own little circle of hell for me... mad props to anybody who can do it.. it is just tooooo fine of work for this old man
Excellent video. Finally a detailed glimpse into the world of inlay. Thank you for answering so many of my questions without having to ask. 😊
18:08 I honestly did not expect to see this kind of content from StewMac...
Fantastic video. Very clear and easy to follow. Thanks Craig and StewMac for making this!!
This is so fantastic. I’ve always been afraid to do inlay work but you’ve explained it so well that I’m inspired to start experimenting.
Thanks Craig, great tips and tricks. Was great that you brought up blade dulling. I buy multiple dozens and change out blades as soon as i feel them dulling. Love the stickit on an exacto blade. I'll be using that tip.
WOW, Craig!!! I just stumbled upon this tonight - this is GREAT!!! Probably one of the best tutorials on doing an inlay I’ve ever seen! So many practical tips/techniques I'd never heard before…wish I’d known about these earlier when I was doing my instrument inlays! THANKS!
Thanks Kathy 🙂
Thanks so much for this great video. I've done some inlay work using pre cut geometric pearl shapes and other shapes from SM. Never had the confidence to cut my own, but years ago I was given some old beautiful pearl sheets that now I may try cutting. I was told how dangerous it is the breathe in the dust. G10 is used heavily for knife making which I am also familiar with. I also do engine turning like you see on the plates of an old pocket watch. I always wanted to a engine turned guitar inlay.
Wow Craig, that is most interesting and nerve racking as hell. That is a true art to hand cut the pearl or any of the materials and i'm sure takes many tries to get good. Well explained vid for head stock inlay.
I don't do inlays, but this was very interesting to watch. What's more, sharing your artistry in such great detail is very generous and cool. Thank you!
I have drills much smaller! They are for drilling holes in circuit boards or cleaning out existing through plated ones, for hair thin wires. You need much higher speeds for tiny drills, and slower penetration, to not break or bend them: the one you used was bent and wobbled, and can cause trouble. My jewelers saw is a great one made in Germany, but yours looks much groovier with the rounded back.
holy cow this is truly master work
This is an amazing video, I've been doing some simple inlay work for a few years and picked up some great tips here! Thanks!
You gents rock!
I work as a traditional luthier's assistant and I was surprised to find that these saws come as hand tools too. Hadn't given it much thought, but of course the huge machine I use are a recent addition to this art.
Since I don't have much money, a little saw like this would make much more sense for personal projects
I'll never work with inlays, but man your video was amazing. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge, and I have to say, your workshop looks like a very fun place to be/work!
Great job, Craig!
Love it Craig!
Thanks, Craig!
What a great presentation! Excellent job!
Thanks so much.
Great video! Now we need a video on how to fix inlay mistakes and accidents.
And coloring books that are recommended.
Thank you
I’ve got a vacuum pump to stabilize woods, bone, etc. Glad I have that since I’ve begun building guitars!
Nice tutorial Craig. Good to see someone that likes to do detail work. You should mention the Opti-Visor you are using to see those tiny parts. I'd be lost without mine.
Its been such a standard for most people we didn't even think about it. but yes I use 3x most times. Thanks!
20:32
"I don't want my blade b r e a k i n g..."
That little head move that he does shows ages of hurt from blades breaking and ruining everything.
26:50 Out of curiosity, why did you put the dots in the holes first and then apply the CA over the top of them, instead of putting glue in the hole and then insert the dots? I would think you'd get better bonding if the glue was in the hole, instead of hoping it wicks down the side of the dots.
it's super thin ca. It dries extremely fast. Safer to let it wick down than add it and have it flow under the piece. It's that thin.
@@craiglavin1436 Good to know. I was thinking more about woodworking where you would coat your pieces first, before joining them. I hadn't considered the nature of the ca being that thin. Thanks for this series. I've followed StewMac since the 80s when I used to get the catalogs in the mail with all the tips and tricks. I started documenting all of those tips in a journal. Thank you so much for keeping up the great work
@@timothymallon Thin CA is literally water thin. And it dries very fast as a thin coat. You need to experience it honestly. 🙂
@@craiglavin1436 I will. I have always wanted to try inlay and marquetry. Its always been fascinating to me. Thank you again
Excellent stuff. Many thanks.
Fantastic tutorial. Thx so much.
This video is such an inspiration! Thanks so much!
🙂
Thanks for the video. You cover a lot of information without ever being boring. Unfortunately I don't have the time to do this, but considering the tiny size of the drill bit I think I'd be unhappy about the amount of wobble in the chuck.
Another great tutorial. I wouldn't have considered doing a headstock inlay until now. My only criticism is the music in the background is a little intrusive. Thanks Craig.
This video is AWESOME! Thank you so very much.
Sir give us a class on patience! And then we can think about inlays!
Excellent
Thanks Craig. Three amazing episodes. I took a risk and did my inlay on an existing headstock. It's turned out great. Not sure if I can share a picture ! I've gone for a logo that references a cocktail I quite like and think Bette Davis drank them as well !
Awesome work! Thanks for the post!
Astonishing!
This is amazing stuff! Thanks
Excellent.
A thin piece of model aircraft plywood glued onto the back of the pearl will help reduce part breakages and can be removed by soaking in a jar of acetone overnight. Cheers Andrew
True. Not needed as you get better but for beginners a great tip.
@@craiglavin1436 You should try cutting my surname out in mop in one piece without breaking somewhere !!!!
@@andrewmazurkiewicz105 I'll pass 😂
@@craiglavin1436 I thought you might!! Cheers Andrew ps, I do it with a cnc machine takes longer but doesn't waste so much pearl, but also not creatively satisfying, but the end result is spot on.
This is fantastic.
This guy is awesome
Thanks 🙂
Good for you Craig. Thanks.
Extremely usable information! I wish I would have seen this several inlays ago! I would like to add to the StewMac saw I have, where can I get a pearl saw like the one you were using?
Green lion studios 🙂
this is gold.
That drill press had a case of the weeble-wobbles. 😳
Thank you for this excellent information!
I think it was more the bit than the press itself.
That's exactly it. It is the bit, not the drill.
I'm thinking Mr. Levin would not suffer a jacked up drill press featuring a huge margin of error for "drills where I thought it would drill but it didn't."
@@davidsaliba9209
Ok, first and foremost, this wasn’t some kind of accusation that this guy is a hack because it looked like the drill press had a smidge of runout. He’s a mind-boggling artist, full stop.
That said, if you look at 13:31, and watch the jaws of the chuck against the still background of the template, you’ll see it’s got some movement. It clearly ain’t the end of the world and doesn’t stop this guy from producing top-level work, but I’m just saying that I noticed it.
@@jeffmansfield914 Hi Guys. The drill I have in my shop is way more stable than this one, and its not in production anymore. I didn't fly it out with me for the shoot. That said Stew Mac was kind enough to get this one added in for the shoot when I stated we needed one, and yes it was a bit wonky. All in a days work. This wasn't filmed in my shop, we "re created" it at the Stew Mac studios. We produced as good a product as we could with me using some tools for the first time ever. Hope you enjoy this service from Stew Mac and thanks for watching!
I did my first inlay with Mother of Pearl (MOP) and was quite impressed with my own results. The greatest frustration I found was using your recommendation to outline the MOP on my veneer, in my case rosewood, with a lead pencil (0.3mm lead). I had a tough time seeing the outline under the StewMac router base, even with my shop's LED lighting, and incandescent desk lamp and a good quality LED headlamp and head mounted magnifier. It occurs to me that lighting on the router base would help. Any suggestions?
Great teacher...
Many many thanks
Thanks 🙂
So...StewMac, gonna source the drill press, bits, and that amazing jeweler's saw? That mini drill press would be great for so many around-the-shop functions.
Micro Mark sells the drill. Green Lion studios the saw. The bits Just Google mini drill bits. I think they are available from most hobby shops.
@@craiglavin1436 Thank you!! That entire video is outstanding. The saw seems like a completely advanced version of the small hacksaw, plus the tensioning adjustment is excellent.
@@craiglavin1436 Micro Mark has moved on to some pretty amazing stuff!! They should contact you for your video. I had no idea things like that existed until I watched this video.
Can you imagine how long it takes to earn this much experience and expertise??
40 years 12 hours every day prob
Yes, I've been doing inlays since 1976. It takes a decade to get good at intricate inlays.
Kinda comical, But there's more than one way to skin a cat.I appreciate all the instruction,My skills must lack because i routed and glued the Abilone shell to the Headstock and did an overlay,Thank you,I wouldn't have even attempted such precision work without Thanking you for inspiring me to attempt it! An overlay gives you a second chance,and after it is glued up and sanded Down is Definately good enough for me!
It's a great start, or finish! I do overlay as well, especially on finished Instruments 🙂.
Thanks for sharing your video! Great work! I would like to know if it's ok to apply some finish to the headstock (tru-oil or other)... would it stain the inlay? Thanks!
Depends on your inlay material, porous things drink in the color, non porous don't. If you finish has a color that will effect the inlay by tinting over it as a tinted finish.
@@craiglavin1436 Thanks Craig, for your answer! I guessed so, and then I thought to sand the inlay, but it will be inevitable to sand the wood too, so I don't know how they do it. Anyway, thanks again! Best regards!
Awesome stuff! This is some excellent content!! What if I enjoy the smell of CA?
The Ramones are to blame lol
Thanks Craig! you're the man!! 1st Like!
😀
Very nice
Quick question, what is the advantage of this over a cnc machine? Those can use lasers and be even more precise
That little MacGyver file jig, get down Craig!
Will any wood cement work? Testors is hard to come by in my parts. But I don’t want to ruin my ebony or pearl.
Nice marchetry. Have you ever seen the work of the late Phil Petillo?
Great info Craig….how about some links for the other materials you showed.
Masecraft Supply, eBay, Stew Mac . Duke of Pearl. Start with those.
All the StewMac tools are linked in the description.
yo this dude is the bob ross of inlaying, brilliant
Thank you Craig and team, that is a great series. I’m having trouble finding a router flexi-shaft that is compatible with the Stewmac router base, which one are you using in the video please?
These are Foredom flex shaft. The exact model can be found on the StewMac website.
Thanks Craig, the flex shaft Is on its way to the UK from Stewmac as I type.
@@peregrineguitars-bespokeac1509 You'll love it.
should get yourself a vinyl plotter, that would make cutting designs much more accurate and it would save you a ton of time too.
Thanks
Wooooaaaah Black Betty 8:24
Awesome
Good
how do you spell the material you mentioned as Keranite? I know that's not it - I can't locate anything even similar to that spelling and don't see that masecraft supply has it listed? Thanks. Great video and I'm on to watch the second and third video
Kirinite
kirinite.com/
Considering how much effort goes into doing inlays, make sure you spend an hour of design for every hour of production. I see so many gorgeous guitars-even from celebrated luthiers-where they just use terrible typography or lettering and then position it so poorly. It kills me.
The saddest is when frets cut through eyes or other important features. Yes design is first and foremost the most important step!
It’s probably not important to try to impress the inlay art community. Ultimately, a design and inlay job should impress the creating artist and their client.
I cant find the green "curinite" (spelling???) anywhere (7:45) - anyone know how to spell that? I must not be close because google ins't bringing up anything.
Kyrinite
thanks
At the chance of never getting answered, could you not do say a logo backwards so the face is in less danger of getting compromised during the template removal?
Shouldn't it be two empty frets at either side of the two doted fret?
My goat
How to dissolve the glue when you can't use acetone?
Lol yeah, you make that look so easy.
We're can I get kyronite
What is the red material, I believe he is saying Atlantine? Etlantine?
Found it, Atlante, its polyester.
whats the Glue brand called? I searched for Testor Glue in amazon and it shows a color red tube, i think it got different types but i cannot find that color green tube
Testors metal and wood.
You can usually find it anywhere they sell model cars and planes.
@@edwardmonsariste4050 im actually outside US and this type of glue is not available locally. Thus im replying on Amazon to order this brand
@@cabronismo oh okay. My bad. It’s a gooey type of quick set glue, different than standard super glue. Im not sure if Amazon shows availability to you, but I’ve found Starbond, Model Expo, and Gluemasters that have that type of glue.
@@edwardmonsariste4050 no issues mate, i msg Craig directly to ask for the exact brand and found it on amazon
I want to paint my "tree of life" witch product u recommend to paint the inlay let's say blue and brown
Can someone clarify the material "kironite"?? Spelling? Suppliers? I don't see this in a 'net search so my spelling is likely wrong.
Thanks
Kirinite
kirinite.com/
@@stewmac Got it. Thanks !
With all the technology wouldn't it be easier to cut these materials with a CNC?
Great video. Seems like a laser would save so much time.
Laser doesn't work but CNC does, and it's only saving time up until a certain complication level. At this stage yes, the more pieces the longer it takes to do either way.
clicked on this thinking, im not going to watch all of this, 30 min is too long. at best, ill ff through the slow parts. now, here i am, 30 min later, haveing watched every second.
my only question, if i just carved out that entire "stew mac" i would be scared shitless to break it getting the paper off. why not just inlay it with the paper and sand it off once its secured in the wood?
it's actually more scary to try to lift an inlay back out of a tight fitting pocket. :) Taking the paper off isn't too bad.
You can do it that way as well but often you can't really see the areas that need clean up/sanding unless the paper is off.
Blade breaks are inevitable so have plenty on hand....as the blade snaps @1840 .
Stupid question: how do you print on double sided tape?
You don't. You use it to hold your pattern down. Or hold your pieces to the pattern. All printouts are on regular grade recycled paper.
I think he put the paper template down, then tape, then the inlay. The tape is transparent so you can see through to the template
@@stringsalive20 That's exactly it.
@@stringsalive20 ah, ok, I was not aware of transparent doublesided tape