Thanks for the video, I really had no idea until I watched your vid, gave me the confidence to do the job myself. In fact I did it the hard way, on the vehicle, a bit fiddly but managable, so happy to start her up and no leaks. Range rover VM 2.4.
Great video. I just had to do all seals on my pump - because of bloody bio fuels: My pump held 200miles on the first HVO100 tank before it started to leak heavily on the rear o-ring. I took the high pressure part off and put a green Viton o-ring in (should be resistent to bio fuels). A little more delicate for the first time than doing it your way - but I'd liked to check the springs and other interiors too. Please keep on your great job - I've been enjoying dozens of your clips. Thank you so much :-)
Great video! I watched your one about finding timing from the pump last year when I bought my TDI, helped me sort it out, and now you've done these ones for the rear and front seals as I've discovered mine are leaking - what a bloody godsend you are! Thanks for making these videos and giving clear working explanations of quite finicky jobs. Legend!
Thanks for such a good video. After watching this I did mine in situ. Harder to keep the o ring from lifting out when in the car as even with inspection mirrors it’s difficult to keep in place on the underside. However I used thin nylon rope to ‘floss’ it in place whilst tightening it up. Your video really helped solve a last minute leak before a long journey. Grateful to you.
Interesting method Mike my VE pump was stripped down to replace all the seals etc....so the pump head was 'off' for all that stuff. Nice to see a different approach. My pump has 5 nozzles but I think that shouldn't make any difference to placing that seal in there.. On re assembly I used red rubber grease on the rubber parts..its what i had at the time...
As a few have found out there are a lot of small parts in the back of the pump - It is possible to do on the engine, but if the back seal leaks, then you can be sure the front is not far behind!
What did you do to make sure the springs in the pump are tight to the head ? Other video i saw had a way to make sure springs were tight before removing head for gasket ? May be i missed it ?
You only need to expose the O ring to replace it = no more. But on one, the head was rusted to the body and jumped out, needing the end of the pump disassembling and cleaning
Good instructions, just what i needed as my rear o ring is starting to leak. Can you measure the rear o ring and/or give me a link or part nr. For it please? Much appreciated!
Thanx for the reply. Most likely I have the right O- ring already. VITON 55X2.5 ID (can you confirm?) . I will try and fix it on the car in the near future.
I use Vaseline to act as a dressing for the rubber door seals. It stops the rattles when driving along, and keeps the rubber feeling soft and staying in shape.
Thanks for the video, I really had no idea until I watched your vid, gave me the confidence to do the job myself. In fact I did it the hard way, on the vehicle, a bit fiddly but managable, so happy to start her up and no leaks. Range rover VM 2.4.
Glad I could help
You just turned a 3 hour job into a 20 min breeze. Thanks for the great content.
Great to hear!
What size is the oring for the back? 60mm x 2.5mm?
Cheers Russell
No idea - I just buy the genuine Viton ones from Bosch
Great video. I just had to do all seals on my pump - because of bloody bio fuels: My pump held 200miles on the first HVO100 tank before it started to leak heavily on the rear o-ring. I took the high pressure part off and put a green Viton o-ring in (should be resistent to bio fuels). A little more delicate for the first time than doing it your way - but I'd liked to check the springs and other interiors too. Please keep on your great job - I've been enjoying dozens of your clips. Thank you so much :-)
Glad it helped
Great video! I watched your one about finding timing from the pump last year when I bought my TDI, helped me sort it out, and now you've done these ones for the rear and front seals as I've discovered mine are leaking - what a bloody godsend you are! Thanks for making these videos and giving clear working explanations of quite finicky jobs. Legend!
Glad it helped
Thanks for such a good video. After watching this I did mine in situ. Harder to keep the o ring from lifting out when in the car as even with inspection mirrors it’s difficult to keep in place on the underside. However I used thin nylon rope to ‘floss’ it in place whilst tightening it up. Your video really helped solve a last minute leak before a long journey. Grateful to you.
Glad it helped
Interesting method Mike my VE pump was stripped down to replace all the seals etc....so the pump head was 'off' for all that stuff. Nice to see a different approach. My pump has 5 nozzles but I think that shouldn't make any difference to placing that seal in there.. On re assembly I used red rubber grease on the rubber parts..its what i had at the time...
As a few have found out there are a lot of small parts in the back of the pump - It is possible to do on the engine, but if the back seal leaks, then you can be sure the front is not far behind!
What did you do to make sure the springs in the pump are tight to the head ? Other video i saw had a way to make sure springs were tight before removing head for gasket ? May be i missed it ?
You only need to expose the O ring to replace it = no more.
But on one, the head was rusted to the body and jumped out, needing the end of the pump disassembling and cleaning
will it be the same process for a pump that’s for an intercooled engine?
Should be
Is this the same process on a TD300 fuel pump assembly?
Thanks for the great video
If doing whilst on the vehicle do you need engine at TDC and stop solenoid out.
Much appreciated
Don't know - simpler to do on the bench and do the front and rear seals at the same time
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you appreciate the videos
Good instructions, just what i needed as my rear o ring is starting to leak. Can you measure the rear o ring and/or give me a link or part nr. For it please? Much appreciated!
injectionpumps.co.uk/product/bosch-ve-va-vp36-vp37-vp29-and-vp30-hydraulic-head-seal-in-viton/
Thanx for the reply. Most likely I have the right O- ring already. VITON 55X2.5 ID (can you confirm?) . I will try and fix it on the car in the near future.
Sorry I think the site mentioned 60 mm?
Yes the O-ring I have has an inner diameter of 55 and outer diameter of 60. Thickness is 2,5mm
Good video really easy to do, Thanks Danny
No problem 👍
I use Vaseline to act as a dressing for the rubber door seals. It stops the rattles when driving along, and keeps the rubber feeling soft and staying in shape.
And stops them sticking in winter!
The green O ring replacements are a better quality.
Actually looking at my order they were Viton, suitable for use with vegetable oils, biodiesel and higher temperatures
The 'rebuild' seal kit I bought had a mixture of black and green. Small seals where all green but the pump head seal was black...
All my seals and O rings were Viton