Probably the best DIY I've ever seen on UA-cam - straight to the point, no wasting time rambling on about unrelated stuff, fast fwd through the 'laboring' parts, give every bit of detail that's needed, perfectionist about the job at hand - I couldn't have asked for better!! Thank you!
I was going to post my own comments, but you just said exactly what I was thinking. Awesome video. Wish they were all like this. Thanks Thingsto Consider!
💯agree. No rambling and explaining things to make it sounding easier than it is, then cut to an already finished portion of the job (like cooking shows). Incredible detail at just the right pace.
This isn't a diy, you can see it's a professional shop, with proper tools and lifts. Stuff to make this job easier. Luckily this job doesn't require a lot of specialized tools.
This video was made by a real Acura mechanic. I worked on Honda’s for many years and this is the best video I have seen . Man hats of to you . Very very professionally done .
Just finished the TB kit replacement on my 2012 MDX, I do just fine on my own but can always learn new techniques and how to. Your video was key to getting this job done, I installed a Aisin TB kit. Not sure if the replacement seal on the water pump was a bit thinner than OEM but it leaked from LH lower side, made me take belt TB off again 😬. Luckily I had only partially reassembled it, took it apart for inspection and found new gasket slightly thinner. Set me back about 2 hours due to disassembly, inspection and reassembly. In all it took me about 6 hours of planning, watching and searching for best video, area cleaning, dissasembly, old and new parts inspection, belt tooth marking transfer onto new belt, installing new parts, trial and error reassembly, final clean up and inspection. Thank you.
Absolutely the best tech oriented video I've ever seen. Many thanks. Einstein once said if one can't explain something simply they don't know what they're talking about. Well you explained a highly technical issue super simply.
Great instructions. It helps a lot to complete my MDX timing belt and water pump job. I want to point out that this job can be done without removing the computer and the bottom engine mount support if I have the ratchets thin enough to remove the front 14mm bolt on the engine mount at 11:25. In my case, I used the 1/2" ratchet to crack loose this bolt then 1/4" ratchet to back the bolt out to the point hand loosen it.
Timing chains are not fool proof or maintenance free either. They also have a tensioner which can go bad, and plastic guides which can wear out or snap. In my honest opinion I’d rather pay a thousand dollars every 100,000 miles to have a timing belt replaced versus 3-4 thousand dollars all at once if the timing chain needed service.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 Agreed, but at my age (73) I won't live long enough to have to replace a timing chain. I will have to have the timing belt replaced on my wife's Acura however.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 true, BMW N20 engine (my other car a 2014 528i) has known issue with the guide breaking, clogging up the oil intake and destroying the engine (lawsuit) or dropping the chain, and supposedly they have fixed that a few years later. I don't think most car have issues, an would rather not ever have to deal with it like my 07 MDX - luckily I got it done for $350 labor (friend) and $200 parts (amazon ASIN kit with everything). Next time won't be so cheap...
Great video! A bit intimidating for me. I will likely hire this out and make sure to have the recommended items, per your video, updated at the same time. Thanks!
Yes we got the MDX timing belt done last week and also we reseal the oil pump and oil pan. If you follow this video it does help and have all tools available
@@JPHET37 amiga!!!! Ayudame por favor, tienes el manual de este motor? Tengo una camioneta igual a la que mencionas mxd 3.7 2007 se daño la bomba de agua y radiador, se dañaron las juntas de cabeza, ya repare pero tengo problemas con los aprietes de los tornillos de cabeza, de los porta balancines y de los tornillos de los engranes o poleas de los árboles de levas donde pasa la banda de tiempo. Podrías ayudarme con esa info? En mi país México me es costoso el manual que encontré por ebay
This is, by far, the best tutorial video on timing belt change video!!! Thank you for giving me the confidence to do it now. Could you also do a video on rear main seal change?
I've tried to do that in the past, but there is so much going on with the transmission removal, time constraints, camera placement, etc, Haven't been able to get to it yet. But, maybe some day.
"rear main seal change" mine started leaking after I changed to a (bad) aftermarket PCV valve, but I ended up using AT-205 (recommended by Scotty Kilmer) and it stopped the leak for $10 and after 2 years still fine.... might want to try that :)
I will not trust any seller for vital parts like these other than a dealership. I recommend buying them from a dealership and DIY if you want. but not from an unknown seller on Amazon or Ebay. I bought mine (AISIN) from rockauto.
@@heeaach Totally agree with using OEM parts only. I did this job on a V6 Accord with a Gates KIT. The included water pump failed within 20k miles. X2 on the job!
@@MrDgjones703 AISIN is still working good in my 2008 MDX till now. But next time, I will buy the parts from an ACURA dealership and take them to my independent mechanic to do them. This was the cheapest way to do a job like this. I am in Canada, the parts costed me about c$230 and the c$500 for the work.
FYI I just removed the bolts holding power steering pump to the engine and then moved it (still connected to low and high pressure hoses) on top of intake manifold. Saves the trouble of air getting into system. Saves you mucho tiempo.
They really do,it's literally engineered to give you cramps,back n forth with tools,switching bending,not being able to reach or see things at an exact out-of-veiw or touch ,you won't know until you attempt it and be like "THIS WAS MADE TO NOT BE EASY"
www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Timing-Belt-Kit-with-Water-Pump-Fit-for-HONDA-Acura-Accord-Odyssey-MDX-TL-V6/312758199666?fits=Year%3A2012%7CModel%3AMDX&epid=24035599958&hash=item48d1d76572:g:mJwAAOSwJYVd-uG9 This kit on ebay appears to be all OEM (original equipment manufactured) by Honda and has all the OEM part numbers listed. Its for a 2012 MDX. If I remember correctly, that is the year of the MDX in the video. I usually dont post years, but put everything into generation groups.
I like to make 2 marks on all belts and cam on each one. Then transfer the marks to the new belt exactly. It means you never install the belt then have it off a tooth. Plus the back cam is usually under pressure and will pop an inch or 2 once the belt comes off it you touch it at all. It will cut your hands. The sprocket. If your bare hand is on it when it happens. When you put the new belt on you can zipzie them in the correct sport then move the cam back the a wrench if need be. Not that bad a job. Not worth paying dealer 2k. Cost about 350 for all new parts and water pump.
Depends..........for me, about 4 hours assuming that I dont run into any problems (broken bolts, rust, etc)..... I have seen a few do it in 2.5 hours and some take up to 10 hours. Dealer flat rate is 5.4 hours.
No jack or support required.....the front engine mount, rear engine mount, and transmission mounts will support the engine. When the right side mount for the engine is removed, the engine will lower a very small amount.
Thank you sooo much for making this video! Where can I get that cap you put on the power steering pump at 1:06 from your video as well as the plug you placed on the power steering reservoir... These fluids are always messy and trying to find ways to contain/prevent them for getting all over the engine and floor!
I always save plastic/rubber caps and plugs from new parts. They are shipping caps and plugs. That is where those came from, so I don't have a part number to share. But there are cap and plug sets available for purchase. I hope this helps you.
Excellent video on the J series TB swap. Acura started using TB with Kevlar integrated into them in 2010. I assume it was all J series but not sure, it was in the white paper sales brochure listed with other upgrades for the MDX for that YM. I guess this is why you'll see some with 180K miles on them and still running. I went with the Gates Blue Kevlar my last change. I also had to replace both cams and a couple of rockers and I'm at 282K+. Great vehicle for me, MPG sucks but 4500lbs + is heavy. Do a video on upping the MPG would be great. I've heard the J series had an earlier spring loaded tensioner that wouldn't leak down like this ours, that's cool. I'm looking at making a stand alone PCV system to help control blowby and keep from the coking oil control rings issue I hear about. Buffed and Ceramic coated, looks new.
@@thingstoconsider5186 amigooo me puedes ayudar,? Tienes el. Manual del vehículo de este video? Tengo uno igual pero no tengo la. Información de los torques de apriete de los tornillos. Mi motor es 3.7 2007 mdx Encontré que las cabezas con tornillos usados van a 22 lbs más 90 grados más 90 grados Tornillos nuevos 22 más 90 más 90 más 90 Tornillos porta balancines 17 libras Pero no se si sean correctos , igual me faltan los aprietes de los tornillos de los árboles de levas donde van los engranes por donde pasa la banda de tiempo. Te agradecería muchísimo si me ayudas con esa información por favor. Saludos desde Mexico
@@dieandlife88 Lo siento, no tengo el manual de reparación. Por lo que recuerdo, el torque en la cabeza que enumeró suena correcto. No recuerdo los otros, pero es posible que desee consultar acurazine.com. Hay muchas especificaciones de torque enumeradas allí.
If only timing belt changes went as quickly as this! Wish they went with a timing chain instead... but then again I’m sure chains have their own unique problems as well 😭
Not sure? I am an Aucra tech, but do not deal with any of the pricing. Would vary depending on labor rate and what kind of parts you use. We use only OEM, which are expensive.
Got a crank pulley tip . (ASE Master) I couldn’t get the bolt lose with a 4 foot breaker bar and the special crank holding tool . I broke the socket , tool and partially rounded the bolt . I then got my rotary cut off tool . I scored the base of the bolt about a 1/16 of an inch at a 45 degree angle . Then scored all around diagonally across what looks like the washer base . This released the tension and an impact with little to no effort spun it lose . Or you could have easily used the breaker bar . Amazing . IMPORTANT ....REPLACE THE BOLT . Dealer item about 24.00 . Use care not to hit the balancer . It’s tight but doable .
on 1st generation. the CKP sensor is behind the lower timing cover next to the front of the crank, 2nd generation and later, was placed in the oil pan.
Any chance you know where to find the torque values for reinstalling the engine mount bracket? For some reason my manual doesn’t tell me what they are and for the life of me I can’t find anything on the internet.
@Benji Britt puedes ayudarme con los torques de este motor? No encuentro por ningún lado el manual de taller mas que por ebay pero es costoso al menos en mi moneda local que es Mexico :( saludos
I’ve called around to several shops and they are only changing the timing belt and tensioner? Any reason why they would skip the water pump and rollers ? Still getting quotes in the 900-1,200 dollar range.
Where I work, if its the first timing belt replacement (105k miles/7 years) They replace the T-belt, drive belt, water pump, coolant, and hydraulic tensioner. I still recommend the pulleys. Definitely if its the 2nd T-belt change. Other dealerships or repair facilities may opt to not replace depending on climate conditions? Of course its always been said to follow the instructions in the owners manual.......... But, for me personally, I recommend to replace them while the system is apart and easily accessible and the thought that the engine will most likely be driven another 105k miles with unknown time idling...a lot of stress on all the components.....Should not be any more labor to do the pulleys, just the cost of parts. The water pump will most likely cost more labor..........All that being said, if you live in an area with moderate temperatures and a qualified technician inspects the pulleys and water pump and determines that they do not need to be replaced, that would be their call.
Is the socket for removing the cam bolt a special geared socket that doubles the guns torque? How many ft/lb would you say your gun was set to? Thanks, awesome video. Planning on tackling this myself because of this video, 👏
When removing the Crank bolt, I was using a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter fitted to a 3/4 drive 19MM socket to add mass to help with removal. The Ingersol-rand Impact I was using (I'm guessing) is about 800-1000 ft lbs torque in reverse @ 90PSI. Hope this helps.
@@thingstoconsider5186 yes this helps immensely. Ill shop around for a impact with that amount of torque. I was going to ise the larger battery impact from milwaukee, but it maxes out at 450. Have you ever freed one with a long breaker bar? Im in a pipe trade so we break large pipe with linseed oil, just not sure of the ft/lb. Thanks 👍
@@M2uared The crank bolt can be removed with a good quality 1/2" drive breaker and a pipe attached over the breaker bar handle for leverage, but you will also need a crank pulley holder tool to wedge against the sub-frame after it is attached to the crank pulley to hold the crank while removing the bolt. The vehicle will need to be raised high enough off the ground so there is enough clearance for the length of the pipe. I would say a 3 to 4 foot pipe should work.
So I got it done. Not to big an issue with the crank bolt. More of an issue getting the adapter to hold the pulley to stay and not bind. Greatly appreciate the reply’s and the video. Thank you 🙏
Talk about royally complex. What in the world gave ahonda the idea to have a timing belt vs a chain? Disposable engines? Interference engines and timing belts, man!
Honest opinion, do you think I need to replace my timing belt & water pump for my mdx 2010. Had 33k miles on it ,it’s been 11 years old...Acura wants to change my TB but inspect only my water pump and other components if there was a problem, do I need to change the WP even it’s not leaking...thank you
For me personally,,,,,,at 11 years in the AZ heat,,,,,I would have the timing belt, drive belt, hydraulic tensioner, water pump, and coolant replaced,,,,,inspect the tensioner pulley and idler pulley.......this all going on the logic that it may be another 11 year before the timing belt is replaced again. If the water pump isnt replaced until then, it would have 22 years on it.
Great video, I’ve got 2012 mdx which has squeak coming from upper rear timing belt cover and no one knows why… if I sent you video of noise would you give me your 2 cents ?
@@thingstoconsider5186 so noise started and I figured it was pulley but I needed timing belt done. Had timing belt done, car started without serpentine belt on and noise still there my mechanic said…. He had someone look at it and they thought cam shaft starting to go. Took it to Acura who ripped apart timing belt but they claimed they couldn’t get crank shaft bolt off due to key put in backwards amd they didn’t know what noise was from . They gave up. Basically no one knows…, been driving it now about 10k miles on it and it’s getting worse. Noise now clearly comes from rear upper timing cover . I put my hand on it and you can feel the cut ration noise . I’ll try and load the latest video which has it louder and view of the upper timing cover …
@@shockerdcr I've never heard a noise like that from the camshaft itself. Not to say that it doesn't happen, but I have never heard it................... I have heard that noise before, but not from a 2012 MDX. I have heard it from a 2014 and up MDX and a TLX V-6. From the ones I have heard, the noise came from the timing belt rubbing on the crank guides. The noise would stop when the engine was cold and then get louder as the engine warmed up. To diagnose, we would remove all timing covers, reinstall the crank pulley, start the engine, and lightly spray the timing belt at the crank area with water (while making noise) to see if the noise would stop and go from there. I would say take back to whoever installed the timing belt if the crank pulley can't be removed. Also, I have another video that shows a worn cam lobe. On that particular MDX, the worn cam lobe was causing a loud tapping noise. However, all the rockers have rollers; if one of the rollers is locking up, I suppose it could make a noise like that? Sorry, I couldn't give you anything definitive, but I hope this helps.
5.4 labor where i work (5 hours 24 minutes). You would have to call to get the labor rate or how much per hour is being charged , from the shop you decide to do business with...Same with parts. I would recommend paying extra for all OEM parts.
There are a lot of variables for the answer to that question, but I will try to answer.....For me, including replacing the water pump with the timing belt, it takes about 3.5 to 4 hours. I have seen some people do it in 2 hours and have seen it take up to 10 hours. There would be additional time needed if you were to add seal replacement for the crank, cams, or oil pump. The times would change based on experience and whether or not you have air tools.
I've had nothing but great experiences @ Thunderbird Automotive on 35th ave. & Thunderbird...also if u have a Wilhelm auto near you they are a little more pricey but they do good work as ALL of their mechanics are ASE certified
Only if the serpentine drive belt is being reused. NOT absolutely necessary, But can help prevent noise from the drive belt once it is reinstalled. The idea is to install it in the same drive direction that it was originally.
HELP PLEASE HELP ME,I WATCHED ALL THE VIDEOS WHERE YOU GUYS CJANGE IT cause of that sound Honda makes when a failed tensioner happens my car made exactly that sound,I get all the way down there and the belt is NOT loose cause if tension..HELP HELP
If you are referring to a knocking noise that is loudest at the hydraulic tensioner during cold starts and goes away after the engine warms up, then the hydraulic tensioner is most likely the cause of the noise. If you remove all of the covers and rotate the crank manually, you should notice that the belt has excessive slack in some areas as the crank is being rotated by hand. You may also notice that the hydraulic tensioner is leaking. This is assuming that you have not replaced any components yet.
@@thingstoconsider5186 it's all replaced,just waiting to put belt on and pull the pin cause I'm beat,it was my first time so it took a long day of perfecting,all the parts looked old,the tensioner was rusty so I'm assuming it was reused,not original parts either so..Nissan water pump,gmb pulleys ..someone else told me you don't see until you do all the work n start the car,just praying it worked because the ticking IS prominent
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #107 РОДНОЙ ДОМ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3QKzKUlHM/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably the best DIY I've ever seen on UA-cam - straight to the point, no wasting time rambling on about unrelated stuff, fast fwd through the 'laboring' parts, give every bit of detail that's needed, perfectionist about the job at hand - I couldn't have asked for better!! Thank you!
I was going to post my own comments, but you just said exactly what I was thinking. Awesome video. Wish they were all like this. Thanks Thingsto Consider!
💯agree. No rambling and explaining things to make it sounding easier than it is, then cut to an already finished portion of the job (like cooking shows). Incredible detail at just the right pace.
Exactly this!
This isn't a diy, you can see it's a professional shop, with proper tools and lifts. Stuff to make this job easier. Luckily this job doesn't require a lot of specialized tools.
This video was made by a real Acura mechanic. I worked on Honda’s for many years and this is the best video I have seen . Man hats of to you . Very very professionally done .
Crank pulley bolt being "extremely tight" is an understatement ... great video
Just finished the TB kit replacement on my 2012 MDX, I do just fine on my own but can always learn new techniques and how to. Your video was key to getting this job done, I installed a Aisin TB kit. Not sure if the replacement seal on the water pump was a bit thinner than OEM but it leaked from LH lower side, made me take belt TB off again 😬. Luckily I had only partially reassembled it, took it apart for inspection and found new gasket slightly thinner.
Set me back about 2 hours due to disassembly, inspection and reassembly. In all it took me about 6 hours of planning, watching and searching for best video, area cleaning, dissasembly, old and new parts inspection, belt tooth marking transfer onto new belt, installing new parts, trial and error reassembly, final clean up and inspection. Thank you.
Awesome video. I really like that you showed the socket sizes and any bolts that were specific for a location.
Great video , no time wasted or unnecessary bullshit! Thank you!
Thanks for the no BS video. This is the second timing belt that I did on my MDX. It was worth the extra time to remove the PCM, no more scraped hands!
Absolutely the best tech oriented video I've ever seen. Many thanks. Einstein once said if one can't explain something simply they don't know what they're talking about. Well you explained a highly technical issue super simply.
I wish all videos were like yours. Thank you for this. Straight to the point.
Excellent work ! Your step by step demonstrations were great. I feel very comfortable doing this my self now. Thank you very much
Great instructions. It helps a lot to complete my MDX timing belt and water pump job. I want to point out that this job can be done without removing the computer and the bottom engine mount support if I have the ratchets thin enough to remove the front 14mm bolt on the engine mount at 11:25. In my case, I used the 1/2" ratchet to crack loose this bolt then 1/4" ratchet to back the bolt out to the point hand loosen it.
An excellent instructional video showing all the steps and tricks. But for me, it just reminded me to be sure my next car has a timing chain!
Timing chains are not fool proof or maintenance free either. They also have a tensioner which can go bad, and plastic guides which can wear out or snap. In my honest opinion I’d rather pay a thousand dollars every 100,000 miles to have a timing belt replaced versus 3-4 thousand dollars all at once if the timing chain needed service.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 Agreed, but at my age (73) I won't live long enough to have to replace a timing chain. I will have to have the timing belt replaced on my wife's Acura however.
@@neondiamondsaquaberry17 true, BMW N20 engine (my other car a 2014 528i) has known issue with the guide breaking, clogging up the oil intake and destroying the engine (lawsuit) or dropping the chain, and supposedly they have fixed that a few years later. I don't think most car have issues, an would rather not ever have to deal with it like my 07 MDX - luckily I got it done for $350 labor (friend) and $200 parts (amazon ASIN kit with everything). Next time won't be so cheap...
You are the Spielberg of this kind of video, hats off to a professional!
A video of installation of the new parts would have been great. Really liked this!
Great work thank you. I noticed you had the right tools for the job.
Great DIY video!!! Thanks for taking the time to make it!!!
Great video! A bit intimidating for me. I will likely hire this out and make sure to have the recommended items, per your video, updated at the same time. Thanks!
This was an awesome tutorial! Super informative! Thanks
My dad changed his 97 acura RL timing belt thanks to UA-cam videos car runs very smooth and more power. We going DIY on our 2007 Acura MDX
Giovanna Catzinsky How did the timing belt replacement go on the MDX? Did you do it yet? Thinking about doing mine.
Yes we got the MDX timing belt done last week and also we reseal the oil pump and oil pan. If you follow this video it does help and have all tools available
Giovanna Catzinsky oil pump service 🤔
@@JPHET37 amiga!!!! Ayudame por favor, tienes el manual de este motor? Tengo una camioneta igual a la que mencionas mxd 3.7 2007 se daño la bomba de agua y radiador, se dañaron las juntas de cabeza, ya repare pero tengo problemas con los aprietes de los tornillos de cabeza, de los porta balancines y de los tornillos de los engranes o poleas de los árboles de levas donde pasa la banda de tiempo.
Podrías ayudarme con esa info? En mi país México me es costoso el manual que encontré por ebay
Terrific detailed step by step tutorial video. Got mine done smoothly. Greatly appreciated.
Looks a lot space to work in there 👏
GREAT JOB GREAT VIDEO Could not have been better.!!!
Thanks for your time making video
Excellent video!!! 6:45 what was for lunch? Coleman cooler FTW!
awesome video, thanks for posting, saved me a lot of time
This is, by far, the best tutorial video on timing belt change video!!! Thank you for giving me the confidence to do it now. Could you also do a video on rear main seal change?
Make sure the timing marks line up. Its an interference engine.
I've tried to do that in the past, but there is so much going on with the transmission removal, time constraints, camera placement, etc, Haven't been able to get to it yet. But, maybe some day.
"rear main seal change" mine started leaking after I changed to a (bad) aftermarket PCV valve, but I ended up using AT-205 (recommended by Scotty Kilmer) and it stopped the leak for $10 and after 2 years still fine.... might want to try that :)
Thanks! Helped alot.
Great video!
Ty for making this vid
Now I know why it cost so much to get this repair great job
This is the 3rd timing belt I've done, and it is not an easy one. Nothing very complicated, but a lot going on for a simple belt.
Excellent video! 👍👍
Thanks
Excellent video. You can get the whole kit including the water pump on Amazon for under $200.
I will not trust any seller for vital parts like these other than a dealership. I recommend buying them from a dealership and DIY if you want. but not from an unknown seller on Amazon or Ebay. I bought mine (AISIN) from rockauto.
@@heeaach Totally agree with using OEM parts only. I did this job on a V6 Accord with a Gates KIT. The included water pump failed within 20k miles. X2 on the job!
@@MrDgjones703 AISIN is still working good in my 2008 MDX till now. But next time, I will buy the parts from an ACURA dealership and take them to my independent mechanic to do them. This was the cheapest way to do a job like this. I am in Canada, the parts costed me about c$230 and the c$500 for the work.
got the ASIN kit from amazon as well. I think the only thing I replaced out was the belt itself as it wasn't OEM if I recall..
FYI I just removed the bolts holding power steering pump to the engine and then moved it (still connected to low and high pressure hoses) on top of intake manifold. Saves the trouble of air getting into system. Saves you mucho tiempo.
Thanks for the tip
Thank you for your video bro I have same car I changed myself only one video all over UA-cam post some more about moter mounts will be helpful
Automakers design these timing belts so people will just say “screw it” and buy another car. Damn!
They really do,it's literally engineered to give you cramps,back n forth with tools,switching bending,not being able to reach or see things at an exact out-of-veiw or touch ,you won't know until you attempt it and be like "THIS WAS MADE TO NOT BE EASY"
I would NEVER do these cars for money and can see why Honda has the steel balls to charge 2grand
The new Hondas and Acuras are all chain driven so your point is disproven.
Great video. Would really love if you also posted the replacement part numbers
www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Timing-Belt-Kit-with-Water-Pump-Fit-for-HONDA-Acura-Accord-Odyssey-MDX-TL-V6/312758199666?fits=Year%3A2012%7CModel%3AMDX&epid=24035599958&hash=item48d1d76572:g:mJwAAOSwJYVd-uG9
This kit on ebay appears to be all OEM (original equipment manufactured) by Honda and has all the OEM part numbers listed. Its for a 2012 MDX. If I remember correctly, that is the year of the MDX in the video. I usually dont post years, but put everything into generation groups.
Hello sir, I like your style! Subscribing! Two thumbs up!
Excellent excellent excellent!
Thank you thank you thank you!
I like to make 2 marks on all belts and cam on each one. Then transfer the marks to the new belt exactly. It means you never install the belt then have it off a tooth. Plus the back cam is usually under pressure and will pop an inch or 2 once the belt comes off it you touch it at all. It will cut your hands. The sprocket. If your bare hand is on it when it happens. When you put the new belt on you can zipzie them in the correct sport then move the cam back the a wrench if need be. Not that bad a job. Not worth paying dealer 2k. Cost about 350 for all new parts and water pump.
He's a Genius.
Nice work. My wife needs hers done. Where do you work? Lol.
super awesome great video,Thanks for posting! Can you tell me the amount of time this procedure takes to do?
Depends..........for me, about 4 hours assuming that I dont run into any problems (broken bolts, rust, etc)..... I have seen a few do it in 2.5 hours and some take up to 10 hours. Dealer flat rate is 5.4 hours.
Almost identical to my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Great vid, shows what size sockets to use. Many don't do that.
Great video. When you removed the engine mount, I didn’t see if you supported the engine with a jack underneath. Do you not require to do this?
No jack or support required.....the front engine mount, rear engine mount, and transmission mounts will support the engine. When the right side mount for the engine is removed, the engine will lower a very small amount.
Thank you sooo much for making this video! Where can I get that cap you put on the power steering pump at 1:06 from your video as well as the plug you placed on the power steering reservoir... These fluids are always messy and trying to find ways to contain/prevent them for getting all over the engine and floor!
I always save plastic/rubber caps and plugs from new parts. They are shipping caps and plugs. That is where those came from, so I don't have a part number to share. But there are cap and plug sets available for purchase. I hope this helps you.
very detail! like your work. BTW, Do you have next video for putting new parts back?
May be a while.
Excellent video on the J series TB swap. Acura started using TB with Kevlar integrated into them in 2010. I assume it was all J series but not sure, it was in the white paper sales brochure listed with other upgrades for the MDX for that YM. I guess this is why you'll see some with 180K miles on them and still running. I went with the Gates Blue Kevlar my last change.
I also had to replace both cams and a couple of rockers and I'm at 282K+. Great vehicle for me, MPG sucks but 4500lbs + is heavy.
Do a video on upping the MPG would be great. I've heard the J series had an earlier spring loaded tensioner that wouldn't leak down like this ours, that's cool. I'm looking at making a stand alone PCV system to help control blowby and keep from the coking oil control rings issue I hear about. Buffed and Ceramic coated, looks new.
Robert Jackson
Thanks for the information.
@@thingstoconsider5186 amigooo me puedes ayudar,? Tienes el. Manual del vehículo de este video? Tengo uno igual pero no tengo la. Información de los torques de apriete de los tornillos.
Mi motor es 3.7 2007 mdx
Encontré que las cabezas con tornillos usados van a 22 lbs más 90 grados más 90 grados
Tornillos nuevos 22 más 90 más 90 más 90
Tornillos porta balancines 17 libras
Pero no se si sean correctos , igual me faltan los aprietes de los tornillos de los árboles de levas donde van los engranes por donde pasa la banda de tiempo.
Te agradecería muchísimo si me ayudas con esa información por favor.
Saludos desde Mexico
@@dieandlife88
Lo siento, no tengo el manual de reparación. Por lo que recuerdo, el torque en la cabeza que enumeró suena correcto.
No recuerdo los otros, pero es posible que desee consultar acurazine.com. Hay muchas especificaciones de torque enumeradas allí.
If only timing belt changes went as quickly as this! Wish they went with a timing chain instead... but then again I’m sure chains have their own unique problems as well 😭
Honda/Acura sucks with timing belt , especially on interference engine! common, everyone else has switch long ago... my next car won't have one.
Wow. Fantastic video. I just picked up a 2008 with 80k on it. How much was it compete that job?
Not sure? I am an Aucra tech, but do not deal with any of the pricing. Would vary depending on labor rate and what kind of parts you use. We use only OEM, which are expensive.
I need a new consul for my 2003 MDX
Hi, how much lavor do you charge, great video!!
Dealer charges 5.4 hours (5 hours 24 min) at 150 per hour. That changes from dealer to dealer
Got a crank pulley tip .
(ASE Master)
I couldn’t get the bolt lose with a 4 foot breaker bar and the special crank holding tool . I broke the socket , tool and partially rounded the bolt . I then got my rotary cut off tool . I scored the base of the bolt about a 1/16 of an inch at a 45 degree angle . Then scored all around diagonally across what looks like the washer base . This released the tension and an impact with little to no effort spun it lose . Or you could have easily used the breaker bar . Amazing . IMPORTANT ....REPLACE THE BOLT . Dealer item about 24.00 . Use care not to hit the balancer . It’s tight but doable .
Did Acura move the crank Position sensor on the 2nd gen. I didn’t see it next to the crank pulley
on 1st generation. the CKP sensor is behind the lower timing cover next to the front of the crank, 2nd generation and later, was placed in the oil pan.
This is. Big job - the kit is about $200 the dealer Schaefer me about $1100 it’s ok bc I want it done right
Any chance you know where to find the torque values for reinstalling the engine mount bracket? For some reason my manual doesn’t tell me what they are and for the life of me I can’t find anything on the internet.
For the engine mount bracket (3 bolts that attach bracket to the engine) the torque is 33 ft lbs.
@Benji Britt puedes ayudarme con los torques de este motor? No encuentro por ningún lado el manual de taller mas que por ebay pero es costoso al menos en mi moneda local que es Mexico :( saludos
From Arizona..or can I wait for more 2 years....
Do you need a special tool to hold the sprockets and remove the belt?
No. If the timing marks are lined up the cam gears should stay in place as long as you do not bump them or accidentally force them to move.
I’ve called around to several shops and they are only changing the timing belt and tensioner? Any reason why they would skip the water pump and rollers ? Still getting quotes in the 900-1,200 dollar range.
Where I work, if its the first timing belt replacement (105k miles/7 years) They replace the T-belt, drive belt, water pump, coolant, and hydraulic tensioner. I still recommend the pulleys. Definitely if its the 2nd T-belt change. Other dealerships or repair facilities may opt to not replace depending on climate conditions? Of course its always been said to follow the instructions in the owners manual.......... But, for me personally, I recommend to replace them while the system is apart and easily accessible and the thought that the engine will most likely be driven another 105k miles with unknown time idling...a lot of stress on all the components.....Should not be any more labor to do the pulleys, just the cost of parts. The water pump will most likely cost more labor..........All that being said, if you live in an area with moderate temperatures and a qualified technician inspects the pulleys and water pump and determines that they do not need to be
replaced, that would be their call.
Is the socket for removing the cam bolt a special geared socket that doubles the guns torque? How many ft/lb would you say your gun was set to? Thanks, awesome video. Planning on tackling this myself because of this video, 👏
When removing the Crank bolt, I was using a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter fitted to a 3/4 drive 19MM socket to add mass to help with removal. The Ingersol-rand Impact I was using (I'm guessing) is about 800-1000 ft lbs torque in reverse @ 90PSI. Hope this helps.
@@thingstoconsider5186 yes this helps immensely. Ill shop around for a impact with that amount of torque. I was going to ise the larger battery impact from milwaukee, but it maxes out at 450. Have you ever freed one with a long breaker bar? Im in a pipe trade so we break large pipe with linseed oil, just not sure of the ft/lb. Thanks 👍
@@M2uared The crank bolt can be removed with a good quality 1/2" drive breaker and a pipe attached over the breaker bar handle for leverage, but you will also need a crank pulley holder tool to wedge against the sub-frame after it is attached to the crank pulley to hold the crank while removing the bolt. The vehicle will need to be raised high enough off the ground so there is enough clearance for the length of the pipe. I would say a 3 to 4 foot pipe should work.
@@thingstoconsider5186 excellent. Shouldn’t be an issue then. Thank you for the advise! 🤟
So I got it done. Not to big an issue with the crank bolt. More of an issue getting the adapter to hold the pulley to stay and not bind. Greatly appreciate the reply’s and the video. Thank you 🙏
Talk about royally complex. What in the world gave ahonda the idea to have a timing belt vs a chain? Disposable engines? Interference engines and timing belts, man!
Facts
Honest opinion, do you think I need to replace my timing belt & water pump for my mdx 2010. Had 33k miles on it ,it’s been 11 years old...Acura wants to change my TB but inspect only my water pump and other components if there was a problem, do I need to change the WP even it’s not leaking...thank you
For me personally,,,,,,at 11 years in the AZ heat,,,,,I would have the timing belt, drive belt, hydraulic tensioner, water pump, and coolant replaced,,,,,inspect the tensioner pulley and idler pulley.......this all going on the logic that it may be another 11 year before the timing belt is replaced again. If the water pump isnt replaced until then, it would have 22 years on it.
@@thingstoconsider5186 thank you for your input, it’s highly appreciated,need to discuss this to my Acura Service Advisor 🙏😊
How much would be the estimate if you have change timing belt, pulleys and water pump replaced in acura dealer?
Where I worked,,,,,,,,,,It was 5.4 hours labor at a labor rate of $120.00 per hour = $648.00 plus tax and parts.
Great video! Is it possible to do all of this in just 1 hour?
Not likely.
why, what fool told you that they could do that?
👍
Do you have a part 2 putting it back together
Sorry, I don't.
@@thingstoconsider5186 that’s the main thing that would help even more lol I’m doing mine and I need a video on how it all goes back together
Great video, I’ve got 2012 mdx which has squeak coming from upper rear timing belt cover and no one knows why… if I sent you video of noise would you give me your 2 cents ?
ua-cam.com/video/W2H4-Bk2PZ4/v-deo.html
Hi, I listened to a video on your channel. If that's the noise you a referring to, Have you tried removing the drive belt to isolate it?
@@thingstoconsider5186 so noise started and I figured it was pulley but I needed timing belt done. Had timing belt done, car started without serpentine belt on and noise still there my mechanic said…. He had someone look at it and they thought cam shaft starting to go. Took it to Acura who ripped apart timing belt but they claimed they couldn’t get crank shaft bolt off due to key put in backwards amd they didn’t know what noise was from . They gave up. Basically no one knows…, been driving it now about 10k miles on it and it’s getting worse. Noise now clearly comes from rear upper timing cover . I put my hand on it and you can feel the cut ration noise . I’ll try and load the latest video which has it louder and view of the upper timing cover …
@@thingstoconsider5186 here’s link to today video of it
ua-cam.com/video/VT12d9zFPjg/v-deo.html
@@shockerdcr
I've never heard a noise like that from the camshaft itself. Not to say that it doesn't happen, but I have never heard it................... I have heard that noise before, but not from a 2012 MDX. I have heard it from a 2014 and up MDX and a TLX V-6. From the ones I have heard, the noise came from the timing belt rubbing on the crank guides. The noise would stop when the engine was cold and then get louder as the engine warmed up. To diagnose, we would remove all timing covers, reinstall the crank pulley, start the engine, and lightly spray the timing belt at the crank area with water (while making noise) to see if the noise would stop and go from there.
I would say take back to whoever installed the timing belt if the crank pulley can't be removed.
Also, I have another video that shows a worn cam lobe. On that particular MDX, the worn cam lobe was causing a loud tapping noise. However, all the rockers have rollers; if one of the rollers is locking up, I suppose it could make a noise like that? Sorry, I couldn't give you anything definitive, but I hope this helps.
Great video, but I'll pass looks intimidating 😫😫
What is cost have this done asking because looking at buying MDX what mileage does this need to be done at.
5.4 labor where i work (5 hours 24 minutes). You would have to call to get the labor rate or how much per hour is being charged , from the shop you decide to do business with...Same with parts. I would recommend paying extra for all OEM parts.
It fits on base trim of mdx ?
All engines are the same for the 2013 MDX. Hopes this answers your question.
Step One: Disassemble Vehicle
Do you think $800 parts and labor is a fair price to charge someone to do this job?
Yes, I think so, assuming Honda replacement parts are being used.
How long does the job usually take?
There are a lot of variables for the answer to that question, but I will try to answer.....For me, including replacing the water pump with the timing belt, it takes about 3.5 to 4 hours. I have seen some people do it in 2 hours and have seen it take up to 10 hours. There would be additional time needed if you were to add seal replacement for the crank, cams, or oil pump. The times would change based on experience and whether or not you have air tools.
Thingsto Consider thanks so much I have a shop resource with all the tools I need and lift. I really appreciate the video.
Anyone know of any place or anyone in phoe nix Arizona that do a good job and know their stuff? I need to do for my 2008 acura mdx.
I've had nothing but great experiences @ Thunderbird Automotive on 35th ave. & Thunderbird...also if u have a Wilhelm auto near you they are a little more pricey but they do good work as ALL of their mechanics are ASE certified
Why mark serpentine belt?
Only if the serpentine drive belt is being reused. NOT absolutely necessary, But can help prevent noise from the drive belt once it is reinstalled. The idea is to install it in the same drive direction that it was originally.
HELP PLEASE HELP ME,I WATCHED ALL THE VIDEOS WHERE YOU GUYS CJANGE IT cause of that sound Honda makes when a failed tensioner happens my car made exactly that sound,I get all the way down there and the belt is NOT loose cause if tension..HELP HELP
If you are referring to a knocking noise that is loudest at the hydraulic tensioner during cold starts and goes away after the engine warms up, then the hydraulic tensioner is most likely the cause of the noise. If you remove all of the covers and rotate the crank manually, you should notice that the belt has excessive slack in some areas as the crank is being rotated by hand. You may also notice that the hydraulic tensioner is leaking. This is assuming that you have not replaced any components yet.
@@thingstoconsider5186 it's all replaced,just waiting to put belt on and pull the pin cause I'm beat,it was my first time so it took a long day of perfecting,all the parts looked old,the tensioner was rusty so I'm assuming it was reused,not original parts either so..Nissan water pump,gmb pulleys ..someone else told me you don't see until you do all the work n start the car,just praying it worked because the ticking IS prominent
I think I will just pay to get this done fuck all that
What does this usually cost? Ballpark figure
At the time of this video, it was $648.00 for labor plus tax and the cost of the parts.
This is a pretty tedious job
It's tedious $1300 hundreds service at most mechanic shop. My dads a weekend mechanic cost him only $200 for parts
should have used timing chain instead...save people time and money
Spent too much on tools and it’s every 60k
ALLLLL this bullshit just because the timing belt is made of rubber and not metal chain that can last forever...