Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
Thank you Sir: you are so detailed. I installed my Senville 24,000 BTU unit last year and still I am searching for more split AC videos wanting to learn more. I look back into college and said to my wife: "Boy I spent a lot of time learning English Literature, I should have learned HVAC." God bless you for sharing your technical know-how.
@@stuzman52, you Sir can actually join the faculty or teaching staff of a community college where they teach HVAC courses. Your brevity, accurateness and attention to detail is what makes a real instructor. Enjoy your weekend.
Probably the best, most detailed video of this process I could find! Very helpful and I feel much more confident in my ability to perform this on mine. Thanks.
Thank you very much Mike for the comment and dropping in. It's not too bad to install one of these units. Just take your time, watch the details and you'll be fine.
Finally somebody does it right, pleasure to watch. Thank you for showing how it needs to be done. No need to buy Hilmor tools for regular guys, there are cheaper copies
You are exactly right and I've found that a lot of people want to throw things together quickly. They never have time to do it right the first time, but always have time the second time around :)
Hi, when you are de-burring copper tubing before flaring, tipping tubing down at an angle downward works great, but, I also put a vacuum hose next to it to suck out the filings also. Great talking to you again Terry THANKS FRIEND
Enjoyed the mini split series. I installed a Pioneer 10 years ago and now it’s dead and needs to be replaced. The new model is a nice upgrade over the old unit. I have a problem with my installation. The new unit copper line stub outs are shorter than the older model and the 1/2 suction does not protrude enough through my masonry house to be able to make a 90 turn down into the plastic duct. Talked with Pioneer and they recommend the alternate install with the line set connection being made inside behind the evaporator unit. I’m not happy about that because it makes the indoor unit mounting very challenging and also covers up the flare fittings. Your line set bending instructions are helpful as I plan out a difficult set of copper bends to connect to unit, penetrate the wall and turn down into the plastic duct. During my previous install, I hand bent the copper into the duct because the suction line was 3/8 and easier to work as compared the 1/2 inch line on the new model. Because the line set connection will be buried behind the indoor unit, I am more concerned about a leaky fitting. I was going to dispense with the nitrogen leak test and just pull a vacuum using a manifold gauge set. Now I’m not sure. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and if I need to follow your video on leak testing I’ll have quite an investment in additional tooling. The local HVAC guy I use wanted $250 to leak check and get my system functional after I completed the installation. $500 for the complete install. If I add the cost of a micron gauge, nitrogen gauges, valve core removal tools, the cost become prohibitive for a DIY install, especially if I never use the tools again.. Looking for an opinion about just pulling a vacuum test with a manifold gauge and pump and calling it good if no leak is apparent?
You are correct Rob that having all the tools to do a proper installation can become expensive especially if you don't foresee using them again. You can pull a vacuum alone and hopefully, you want see a rise in pressure on the gauge. I can tell you a story about pulling a vacuum on a vehicle of mine for the a/c system. It pulled down to around 29" Hg and I left it for 24 hours to see if the pressure would rise. After 24 hours, the gauge didn't move so I assumed all was good. After two months, I noticed that the a/c system wasn't blowing cold air. Looking into it, I found the new compressor had a very small leak where the two halves bolted together. I did a video on my channel showing it. So, to get to the point, if you have a fairly large leak, your vacuum gauge should be able to pick it up. But if you have a very small leak, the gauge may now show it. If you do use a vacuum alone, be sure that your flairs created are good, use some blue Nylog on the end of the flares and be sure to use a torque wrench on the nuts for the flares. This way you'll have a better chance for a leak proof system. Good luck on your installation Rob!
My thought is now completing the physical installation of the equipment. Since the flare fitting has to be made in the garage behind the evaporator unit, that I get a HVAC tech to leak test and do a proper vacuum evacuation and releasing the refrigerant to get unit up an running. Might be $250 well spent to assure that unit was properly installed. I would need to invest close to $600 in tools and supplies to perform a though installation. I have viewed many videos where people did a DIY installation with just a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. I wonder how many have experienced issues later on related to the short cutting of leak detection and proper evacuation?
@@robyoung1798 I'm sure that most probably turned out okay if their flares were made correctly and torqued properly. On the other hand, there's some that would have leaks down the road. Some on this channel have admitted to small leaks that showed up a month or so later after their installation. And I would guess that the ones that you see on UA-cam if they did have a leak later, of course are not going to tell you about it 😊 In any event Rob, good luck on your installation and hope all works out!
You my friend are the best Teacher and very gifted in explaining sometimes complex formulas. I am hooked on your site, keep up the good work, its some of the best on youtube by far.
I couldn't figure out how I was going to bend a 5/8 inch suction line where it came through the outside wall on a LG 24.000 unit. After much angst and realizing that all the fancy benders I own won't really get up close I used a spring that was about 16 - 20 inches long that fit the INSIDE diameter with just a little play. Stuck the spring in the tubing and just grabbed it and bent the nicest 90 degree you can get and it was not the least bit distorted. You then just pull the spring out maybe twist it a little to cause it to give up a little diameter dimension and you saved yourself a whole lot of time and money with no cursing at kinks. Best thing ever and simple. Makes the big suction line bending a breeze. Check out the long plastic lines they sell that fit the tubing ID if you really want to go pro.
Thanks James for the comment and your experience in using a spring that fits inside the tubing. Never tried that method before on the inside, but will keep it in mind :)
There is such a thing as spring benders that help prevent you from bending wrong. Most mini split indoor units already have them on there just so that it prevents most DIYers from bending wrong.
@@rondail5675 I could be wrong Ron, but I thought that MrCool units were tailored for the DIY. From what you're saying, it sounds like they want a qualified HVAC technician for the warranty to be valid. Bummer....
Thank you very much Wyatt and line set is a term that's used commonly in the HVAC industry for the refrigerant lines from the evaporator to the condenser. Having the right tools for the job helps make it a lot easier. Thanks for dropping in!
I just installed 2 units myself. It seems that these line sets are rather easy to hand bend. Sure, if you want to follow the line set cover, you will end up needing 90 degree bends. Otherwise, I prefer the bends to be at bigger angles to be less restrictive of refrigerant flow.
Fab video. It was the first one I saw that made me think I could do this. I only add this thought. When I cross referenced your radius bends with the install instructions for my Mitsubishi H2i minisplit, I found that Mitsubishi wanted 4 inch radius bends. I did some fast research and rediscovered spring benders. I put the 3-in1 radius bender back in the box and tried the spring benders. By the way the set of benders I bought were older Craftsman on ebay. I already recalled my satisfaction for owning a Craftsman socket set for over 50 years. Now some folks on the internet complained of difficulty getting the springs off the tubing after making bends. I found no such trouble with the Craftsman 1/4" and 3/8" springs. They actually have wiggle room when you slide them on. Real nice and easily made bends. Also whenever possible I sub two 45 degrees bends for a 90. Only 90s I make on the first of 4 installs at my home were for where the tubing exits the room and where it exits the exterior wall. Hopefully I have the same luck moving forward. Yes I was able to tuck the spring onto the tube and make bends while tuibg exits the walls. I can not speak for newer spring benders as far as how they slide onto tubing or how they slide off after making a bend. If this helps someone great. By the way for where tubing mates with another tube, I purposely overshoot the length needed. Then I measure from flare to the overshooting tube. This tells me where to cut and flare. Plus with a little slack, I can have a mulligan should I have an issue with leaking or a poorly made flare.
Neat and clean with accurate description. I guess the thumbs down are from HVAC techies who hate to see these a video well done to describe the job precisely.
You got that right! I contacted four local HVAC technicians about doing the refrigeration-portion of my mini-split install and none of them were interested. They wanted to whole job or nothing...nothing is fine with me! Knowledge is power!
The bender I was using is very good and does a great job in bending the tubing. The instructions were clear and hopefully the video is clear in using it. Good luck Joseph on your installation!
A great number of Mini Splits come with 10 feet, 15 feet or sometimes 25 feet of tubing with factory flares on each end. In most cases the linset can only be cut back a foot or two from its original length because the tubing is formed in the shape of a spiral to prevent collapse (kinking) and aid in bending and routing of the line set. So, if you have a 25 foot lineset, you may only be able to lop off a foot on each end before you meet up with the formed spiral which cannot be flared. In many cases you'll see the excess tubing coiled up behind the Condenser unit. However, if you use your own copper and are making your own set then of course you can make it any length you want but you do lose the ease of bending it and forming it over the factory supplied lineset and of course you don't get the coveted factory insulation and machine flared ends that's so important to most DIY'ers.
In the cases that you describe where the tubing is coiled, most of these units have the line set precharged with refrigerant in which case the manufacturer, (Mr. Cool as an example) doesn't want it to be cut. Otherwise, the refrigerant will come out of the lineset. In my case, the line set is not precharged and came with a 5m lineset. As you said, cutting off a foot or two isn't going to hurt the unit's efficiency. And as for the factory flared ends, I've seen some that needed to be cut off and flared again. Thanks for the comment!
@@stuzman52 Question: My condenser is precharged for up to 25' of line set. I had an HVAC guy tell me that those type of systems are designed for that length of line set and you cannot cut off much length? I probably only need 10'.
Most line sets for this type of a/c require a 15' line set at the minimum. Did you check to make sure it was able to be cut at the length you required? Thanks for sharing.
Yes, you are correct about the line-set being a minimum length. In my case, it was 12'. That's why you don't see the line-set coming straight down the wall to the outside unit which would have been about 8' long. That's the need for the 90 degree turn to create the extra length running down horizontally to the outside unit. Great question and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 You're welcome. One thing, I'm installing a Senville and I noticed the instructions say 4"(10cm) min refrigerant line bends. I notice yours are less, is there a problem with making them less? Efficiency?
@@mosfet500 I didn't actually measure the radius of the bends, but can say that I haven't had any issues with the unit. There wasn't any mention of minimum radius' of bends in my installation manual for the unit. Good luck with the installation of your unit!
You Sir, and your Assistant, have put together a fantastically detailed instructional video on installing a mini-split system. I am in the process of doing the same. My question today is, did you bend the copper lines from the evaporator unit before pushing them through the wall or did you bend them afterwards. If so, how did you bend them without crimping them? Thanks
Thanks for watching and sharing a comment! The line-set from the evaporator is placed through the hole in the wall being straight. You will hand bend these lines one at a time. Place your hand as far back into the opening to allow for the bend to be as close to the wall coming down. You're trying to get part of the radius to be as close to the wall as possible. You will find that the smaller tubing will bend easily without collapsing. When working with the larger line such as the 1/2", bend this line very slowly as it will have a tendency to collapse. Just be the lines slowly and you should be fine. Have a great day!
Excellent attention to the details of installation of mini split. what are the pros & cons of cutting a section of tubing out and silver soldering the ready made flared ends?
Thank you Mike! You can do that, but you'll want to allow nitrogen to flow inside the lines to prevent oxidation while you're silver soldering. To me, it's just extra work and when properly torqued, the fittings should be fine.
Hi Arieldny and sorry for the delay as UA-cam did not contact me. Not sure about being smart as researching the work as much as possible before doing the job :)
Hi Jason and thank you very much! Maybe they're talking about the O.D. of the line-set. Not sure on that one. Also, to help enrichen your installation, be sure to check out this video of a professional tech who does a step-by-step install of a mini-split. Good luck with your install. ua-cam.com/video/JQkth-AM5CE/v-deo.html
Nice work Terry. We had two heat pumps installed last year. Beats lighting the fire in winter and helps us stay cool in summer. Not something we're allowed to do ourselves here but always handy to know how to do it. Ours use R32 refrigerant which seems to be the latest and greatest stuff. Cheers
Heat pumps are nice for sure Jonathan and it sure beats keeping a fire stoked to stay warm. Around here, R410A is still pretty prominent, but with our EPA, I'm sure that will change in the future. Thanks for dropping in!
You're welcome James and I'm working on a video now which shows the difference between a micron gauge and a vacuum gauge as used on a manifold gauge set. I believe that you will find it very useful. Have a good weekend!
Great video, thanks a lot. I have never heard of preload when tightening line set. Is it required? Did I understand it that you tighten with one torque, then unscrew and then retighten with more torque?
Hi Andrey and thanks for sharing a comment! Yes, you are correct and most of the manuals state to tighten the torque to some setting, loosen the fitting and then re-tighten to a higher torque setting. Have a great day!
Very informative video !! Also I was looking at installing a 3 zone mini split in my house and was curious about installing them on interior walls ??? I believe it can be done but will be hard. Do you have any advice in this
Yes, it will be more involved installing your unit on an indoor wall. You'll have to consider the number of bends, the length of the tubing. All units are filled with refrigerant to a specified maximum length of tubing. Most that I've seen is around 5 m or about 15 feet. You'll have to add refrigerant to the system for the added length of tubing. This info should be in the manual for your unit. Good luck on your installation and have a great day!
We do our bends with plastic ratchet bender. No need to remove insulation and just do 1/2 pipe or larger, the 1/4 follows by hand, just takes 10 min or so.. Other thing I recommend: don't let the grass grow behind the unit. I'd sit the whole thing on large paver stones
Nice work. I’m in the process of installing a Pioneer minisplit in my garage. I plan on making the two 90 degree +/- bends by hand. Seemed to work out on the Samsung minisplit I installl in our home. Your bend on the stubouts from the indoor unit look good. I assume they were done by hand? Thanks for the videos, they’ve been very helpful. I appreciate your attention to detail.
The unit is still holding up very well Terry! I would say on the average, I've been in the garage 2 to 3 times a week this summer. Last year during the winter, my step-son worked on his Toyota and said that he had to turn it off because it got to hot inside the garage. The temps outside were in the upper 30's. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment!
Wow I never heard of a line set before . Just awesome job Terry so precise and neat . Man you have some tools - never seem a torque wrench like that either. I just bought a 1/2 conduit bender , now I have to see if I can figure it out 😂😂 is all your conduit in your garage 1/2 ? .
Thank you Steve! And just think of the other tools that's never been seen :) Most of the conduit in the garage was 1/2", but there was some 3/4" also. Ah, you'll be bending conduit in no time as it's pretty easy stuff. Most 1/2" benders will be a take-up of 5" to deduct for 90 degree stub. Your bender should come with instructions on how to use it. Once you get it figured out, make a video to show other folks how to use it. :))
Most of the time I see a mini split installation , the workmanship makes me puke. This guy is exactly how I like to see work done. When he is done no one can say anything bad and they fume inside knowing they will never be as attentive to detail as this guy is. Great job, you're hired.
..you're just showing off your awesome array of tools, and I love it. I was trying to find out how you connect the wiring from the compressor to the inside unit. Some use conduit, some don't. Thumbs up anyway.
You're correct Mark that people will connect the wiring between the two units in different ways which all are okay. In my case, I used the control wiring without any raceway and used a romex connector to secure the cable within the inside unit. If you're asking about the actual wiring hookup on the terminals, you can download the manual for the unit that you're interested in and it will have all of the info there. Thanks Mark for the comment!
Good day Stuzman...quick question did you braze the 2 24" lineset 1/4" and 3/8" that were cut back together or were they compression fitting fitted back together??? Or was the 2 cut pieces used as a reference for a fresh 1 piece for the linsets.... Also how did you get the lineset insulation back on the linsets after the bends?
Shawn, everything that you mention is shown in the video. The 24" lengths were not used. No brazing was done and no compression fittings were used. The tubing had flared connections on both ends. The tubing was shortened leaving the flaring on one end of each tubing. The tubing was cut to length at the outdoor unit and those ends were flared. And the insulation just slid back on after the bends. All in the video...
Is there any reason your copper lines can’t be cut and soldered for tight 90 turns? I see most minis are retrofit but if I had a new construction install, I’d like my lines out instead of drilling a 4” hole?
Hi. I in the process of installing my own mini split but got stuck on how to bend the 5/8" copper line. Is the pipe bender something you rented or bought? Also because I wasn't able to finish the install I taped the copper ends to prevent any moisture or debree getting in. Would it be okay to leave it like thisfor few days until I am able to find a 5/8 pipe bender and finish the install? Thank you for the detailed video. Albert
The tubing bender shown in the video is a bought item which can bend 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" tubing. The tubing should be fine plugged up, but keep it inside so there isn't wide temperature changes. You don't want condensation to start forming inside the tubing. Good luck on your install Albert!
hey @stuzman, thanks for the video! you’ve given me the confidence to tackle these lineset bends i’ll need to do. on a side note, may i ask where you got the electrical connector for your black control cable? looks like it fits perfectly
Thank you neppy5 and glad you found the video helpful. I got the 1/2" strain relief connector from work. You should be able to get it from one of the big box stores or from Amazon. Here is a link to homedepot that shows several styles. www.homedepot.com/s/1%252F2%2522%2520strain%2520relief%2520connector?NCNI-5
@@stuzman52 perfect! thanks so much stuzman, I like your channel, you deal with interesting topics and approach it with a very methodical engineering mindset, good stuff
The 30A/250VAC fusible two pole disconnect I used was picked up from Home Depot, but Lowes has similar ones. Here is one from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-AC-Disconnect-30-Amp-2-Pole-Fusible-NEMA-3R-DPF221RP/202106492 As for the fuses, I used 15A/250VAC dual-element time delay fuses, part number FRN-R-15. I believe I picked these up at Lowe's, but here is a link to Amazon for reference www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-FRN-R-15-Fusetron-Time-Delay/dp/B00004WA2V/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MZDR2WS6ELNT&keywords=frn-r-15&qid=1566170131&s=gateway&sprefix=frn-r-15%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3 As for feeding the disconnect, 12AWG THHN wire was used as the wiring was inside of conduit. And the disconnect was fed from a 20A/240VAC 2-pole circuit breaker. Keep in mind this is for the Pioneer 12KBTU 240VAC unit as I don't know what unit you plan to install. So, if you have a different size unit, these items could be the wrong size.
@@uwsome1 I assume Derek that you're talking about the disconnect next to the outside unit. If so, I picked it up at Home Depot. If that's not the part you're referring to, just clarify your description a little better and I'll try to help you.
@@uwsome1 If I understand you correctly Derek, are you referring to the strain relief connector that is securing the control cable going into the condenser unit control cover?
Very well done. My unit should be here in a few days. I was 'chatting' online with the vendor about the flare nut sizes and bending. one thing he said was they recommend no more than 3 bends, max of 4. I planned on more with 25ft lines. Any thoughts on this? Thanks
For every bend, there is a small pressure drop and they can add up which degrades performance. If you can, I would rethink the installation to try and keep the bends down if possible.
How do I account for the line sets being a different length where I start at. I think my smaller 1/4” line is 1.5” longer than my other line? Do I just add that to the end measurement?
I'm not sure if you're talking about the 1/4" is too long and if it is, cut the line and re-flair it. Or if you're talking about you need to make an adjustment in your measurement because you're bending the tubing.
@@stuzman52 my bad I wasn’t very clear lol I meant the lineset coming from the inside air handler outside the wall where u connect flared ends but after watching ur video a couple more times I understood how u we’re getting ur measurements. I had mine figured out and called pioneer to ask a question and they told me not to do any 90s if I could avoid it which sounded crazy to me. Your install looks the best for sure
@@Michiganbreadboyz_bt8919 Thanks for the comment! I remember calling them and asking what was the minimum length for the line-set. He said it should be no shorter than 10' and it could have 90s, but keep them to a minimum. I guess it depends on who you talk to that you might get a different answer. Have a great day!
You are correct Dave that a bender will not fit in such a tight space. You'll have to bend the lines by hand SLOWLY so they don't kink. Have a great day!
Good Job , i' m sure he will install mini-split heat pump for the NASA space program ! They get the budget for sotch a précision calculation for bending tubes with a un match accuracy ...
Basically went for the lower price James although you can get a higher seer unit, the cost will go up. I'm very happy with its performance and have no regrets picking the unit. As for the factory warranty, I'm not sure about that, but I do have a universal certification for section 608 and a certification for section 609.
I've put in 5 of these so far. The first four I did. To get factory warranty it required you to take pressure and voltage readings and send in to them and also they required you to provide your state license number. The last one I did they didn't require you to provide a license number for the factory warranty.
27:42 - isnt that line supposed to come from the bottom to drain away all of the rain from the unit, so why does the unit has the main connection points going upwards ????
I remembered that you wanted to see the line set installation, so you might can say the video was for you. Annual perfection trophy WOW! Never had one of them :) Yes, this unit uses R410A. Thanks for dropping in!
I have a question on Tightening torques. I see you tighten and and then retighten again with added force. If installation manual shows 2 values like this: 13.0- 18.0 ft-lbs does it mean 13 is a first and then 18 ? Thanks
In some of the installation manuals depending on the make, model of your unit, it will actually tell you to loosen the fitting and retighten it to a higher torque value. If it doesn't say to loosen the fitting, then the torque setting that you mention means that you can tighten it to a range of 13-18 ft-lbs. and you're done.
great video thanks I just had 2 of these put in my 1890 house I used the down stairs for the first time it ran all day and I canme home and every thing was wet all the condensation instead of going out side down the tube it came inside. the carpet , bed every thing was just soaking wet what did the man do wrong thanks I called him and he is to come out today to fix it. thanks
It could be that the condensate line going outside from the indoor unit has a kink in it. Another possibility is that the louvre door on the indoor unit could be at too steep of a vertical angle. This could cause the air being blow out to actually pick the condensate inside the pan of the indoor unit onto its surroundings. I'm sure that the technician will get you all taken care of.
@stuzman : This was very comprehensive. Thanks for that. I have a question. My unit has a 3/8" and a 5/8" line set. The tool you have used doesn't work with 5/8" tube. And when I look for such a tool on Amazon, I find very expensive solutions, a huge price jump from the imperial brand tool that you have shown. Do you have any suggestion for a tube bender that can work with both 3/8" and 5/8" tubes ? :)
Yes, they get a little pricey for the larger sizes. The best that I could find is one that can do from 1/4" to 7/8" and includes a plastic case to house all of the benders. www.amazon.com/Bender-Refrigeration-Ratcheting-Tubing-benders/dp/B07W4JW827
Can you tell me how do you bend the lines that come out of the inside unit through the wall. The tube bender is too big for that, I do not want to kink them, I have one 1/2 " line. Thank you
They sell these mini splits under the suggestion that they are user-friendly and rather simply DIY projects. I have found the whole project to be EXTREMELY difficult and very time consuming. Plus, like clockwork, I keep returning to hardware stores and online ordering to be MANY specialized tools which I have never before needed in my life. Plus, in my own case, I have faced a mountain of obstacles that are not encountered in any of the installation videos I have seen. I am quite handy and experienced with tools, and have countless tools, but I doubt I will ever again use these many hundreds dollars worth of new special tools acquired for this installation. It has been a long time, and still nowhere close to finished.
I don't know the manufacturer, but here's the link to where they were purchased. On the website, they're listed as item 'B'. www.mcmaster.com/zip-tie-anchors/cable-tie-mounts-6/
Hi Thomas and hope you're doing well! Since I installed this unit, it's still running good, and I haven't done a single thing to it other than clean the filter covering the indoor head. Have a great day!
My 10 and 14 yearold girls just flared some practice line sets with the yellow jacket non concentric tool. Also it seems lowes sell a similar tool for only 40 some dollars instead of the yellow jackets 170 price if your only doing a couple of lines..
The minimum tubing length for the charge installed in the outside unit would be 10 feet. Any shorter than this would require some recovery of the refrigerant. The maximum length of the tubing would be up to 15 feet. After that, more refrigerant would need to be added. These lengths were published in the installation manual. In my case, I used 12 feet of the line set, so all is good. It's a good question to keep in mind and one should use their manual to determine if other manufacturer's lengths may vary.
This is something I hear a lot but doesn't need to be done. 10ft is the minimum line set length, not due to refrigerant charge, but for compressor discharge during heat mode. If it isn't long enough you'll end up hearing it inside.
Holy crap, you kind of remind me of myself sometimes. The habits of keeping the tubes closed is rather old school. Tipping the line set down, the small details of it all. You didn’t mention it BUT the open endwrenches were flare wrenches, specifically designed for flare nuts... after many years of having a whole set of them, I noticed I never had a need for them. Removing the line set just to flare them was a bit over the top, ... remember this is soft copper and they are very flexible lines, especially in those diameters. I must say I did lIke the pad and stand, but all those modifications and replacing hardware and supports... spells “The anal retentive mechanic”. I think I’ll need to re evaluate my own behaviors. All in all a great install... Keep in mind, I had no criticism of any work done, but no employer would allow you to take all those steps, and start screaming” pick up the pace, why are you taking so long?
Sorry for the late reply as I just noticed your comment now. UA-cam hasn't sent me any notifications in months. Just wanted to say thank you for your comment and you're right that no employer would have someone spend so much time on a system. However, since it's my own unit, I like to have things as right as I can. Thanks again for dropping in and sharing a comment!
There was no mention of an oil return for my unit in the manual. You could ask Craig over at www.acservicetech.com and see what he says about it. He also has a UA-cam channel where you could ask him there also. His channel is located at ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.html?disable_polymer=1
It depends on the height difference btw inside and out if you need one. However there is no mention of needing one in the Pioneer install manuals. But they do have a maximum height diff btw inside and outside units.
I wanted to prepare and finalise my self install on my Mini Split System Installation (needing longer line set and additional freon put into the system by a HVAC Tech) awaiting the HVAC tech appointment next week. Would you happen to know if its ok to uncap my line set and install on one end to the (Head Unit ) and not finish the startup till the xtra freon is installed? Would there be any issue with existing moisture in the lines from sitting for a week or so?
I would just leave it capped G man until the HVAC guy got there. Never a good idea to keep a system open for that period of time to moisture. Hope all goes well with the installation!
@@stuzman52 Hello Stuzman. My plan was not to leave it open to the air but take the caps off and immediately make the connection at the indoor head unit pipes and then finish bending and routing the pipes thru to the outside wall , tie wrapping everything down and make the final cut to length of the lineset at the outside compressor, flare those ends and screw on permanently or temporarily till the AC Tech comes over to install more freo because of the longer lineset I had to use. What do you think considering all these points?
G man Since you’ll be doing a fair amount of work before the tech comes, go ahead and do it as you describe. Although your system isn’t open to the atmosphere, you’ll still have moisture in the line set for about a week. You should be okay, until he comes. If you’ve got a vacuum pump, you could pull it down until he comes. Either way you should be okay.
@@stuzman52 I actually have a friend with the vacuum pump. Your saying pulling a vacuum isn't just to check for leaks but it also sucks out all the moisture in the lines.
Very nice documentation on your install. Can I ask what brand of line hide you used and whether you were disappointed at all with its fitment? I also want to hide two linesets on vinyl siding, both with horizontal AND vertical runs. My home's siding has no flats like yours does, it has two bevels and I'm concerned that after attaching the horizontal runs to one of the bevels, they are not going to square up with the vertical run's elbows. Any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated?
Hello pepaudio! I was quite happy with the duct used to hide the line set which came from Amazon. The only thing that I did different was to replace all the screws with stainless steel. I'm not sure about how to handle your situation with your siding other than making a spacer to allow for the discrepancy. Here is a link to the duct that I used and good luck on your installation. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWNQL4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!
Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
This is the BEST install I have ever witnessed and Im a service technician
Thank you very much and have a great evening!
Thank you Sir: you are so detailed. I installed my Senville 24,000 BTU unit last year and still I am searching for more split AC videos wanting to learn more. I look back into college and said to my wife: "Boy I spent a lot of time learning English Literature, I should have learned HVAC." God bless you for sharing your technical know-how.
Thank you Freddy and it's never too late to learn new things.
@@stuzman52, you Sir can actually join the faculty or teaching staff of a community college where they teach HVAC courses. Your brevity, accurateness and attention to detail is what makes a real instructor. Enjoy your weekend.
Thank you Freddy and I was thinking about teaching at the local community college. Have a great day!
Probably the best, most detailed video of this process I could find! Very helpful and I feel much more confident in my ability to perform this on mine. Thanks.
Thank you very much Mike for the comment and dropping in. It's not too bad to install one of these units. Just take your time, watch the details and you'll be fine.
Finally somebody does it right, pleasure to watch. Thank you for showing how it needs to be done. No need to buy Hilmor tools for regular guys, there are cheaper copies
Thank you very much and have a great day!
Thank you for all the time you put intro producing this video.
You are welcome Robert and hope the video helps you out! Have a great day!
Really appreciate you taking time to make a video of your detailed hard work. This helped tremendously! Thank you!
Thank you Vic and glad the video helped!
Great video. I love people like yourself that are very attention to detail oriented. Unfortunately people like yourself are becoming pretty rare.
You're right that's it's hard to find folks who watch the details. Thanks for dropping in Ozzie to share your thoughts!
Finally! A very detail oriented video. Thank you
You are quite welcome Keith and have a great evening!
It's surprising what you can do with a little knowledge, good tools and attention to detail. Nice one again!
You are exactly right and I've found that a lot of people want to throw things together quickly. They never have time to do it right the first time, but always have time the second time around :)
Hi, when you are de-burring copper tubing before flaring, tipping tubing down at an angle downward works great, but, I also put a vacuum hose next to it to suck out the filings also. Great talking to you again Terry THANKS FRIEND
Ronald Cach You too Ronald and hope you’ve been well! 😀
You are the best tech on UA-cam. Thanks
Hey Cary! Not sure about being the best tech on UA-cam, but I do appreciate the comment. Have a great day!
Man, you've got some good tools. I don't think anyone can do as nice a job without nice tools.
Thank you gussy and I always say if you're going to do a job, get the tools needed to make the job right!
Great explanation of how to use the bending tool! Thanks!
Thank you very much and have a great day!
Enjoyed the mini split series. I installed a Pioneer 10 years ago and now it’s dead and needs to be replaced. The new model is a nice upgrade over the old unit.
I have a problem with my installation. The new unit copper line stub outs are shorter than the older model and the 1/2 suction does not protrude enough through my masonry house to be able to make a 90 turn down into the plastic duct.
Talked with Pioneer and they recommend the alternate install with the line set connection being made inside behind the evaporator unit. I’m not happy about that because it makes the indoor unit mounting very challenging and also covers up the flare fittings. Your line set bending instructions are helpful as I plan out a difficult set of copper bends to connect to unit, penetrate the wall and turn down into the plastic duct.
During my previous install, I hand bent the copper into the duct because the suction line was 3/8 and easier to work as compared the 1/2 inch line on the new model. Because the line set connection will be buried behind the indoor unit, I am more concerned about a leaky fitting. I was going to dispense with the nitrogen leak test and just pull a vacuum using a manifold gauge set. Now I’m not sure. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and if I need to follow your video on leak testing I’ll have quite an investment in additional tooling. The local HVAC guy I use wanted $250 to leak check and get my system functional after I completed the installation. $500 for the complete install.
If I add the cost of a micron gauge, nitrogen gauges, valve core removal tools, the cost become prohibitive for a DIY install, especially if I never use the tools again.. Looking for an opinion about just pulling a vacuum test with a manifold gauge and pump and calling it good if no leak is apparent?
You are correct Rob that having all the tools to do a proper installation can become expensive especially if you don't foresee using them again. You can pull a vacuum alone and hopefully, you want see a rise in pressure on the gauge. I can tell you a story about pulling a vacuum on a vehicle of mine for the a/c system. It pulled down to around 29" Hg and I left it for 24 hours to see if the pressure would rise. After 24 hours, the gauge didn't move so I assumed all was good. After two months, I noticed that the a/c system wasn't blowing cold air. Looking into it, I found the new compressor had a very small leak where the two halves bolted together. I did a video on my channel showing it. So, to get to the point, if you have a fairly large leak, your vacuum gauge should be able to pick it up. But if you have a very small leak, the gauge may now show it. If you do use a vacuum alone, be sure that your flairs created are good, use some blue Nylog on the end of the flares and be sure to use a torque wrench on the nuts for the flares. This way you'll have a better chance for a leak proof system. Good luck on your installation Rob!
My thought is now completing the physical installation of the equipment. Since the flare fitting has to be made in the garage behind the evaporator unit, that I get a HVAC tech to leak test and do a proper vacuum evacuation and releasing the refrigerant to get unit up an running. Might be $250 well spent to assure that unit was properly installed. I would need to invest close to $600 in tools and supplies to perform a though installation.
I have viewed many videos where people did a DIY installation with just a set of gauges and a vacuum pump. I wonder how many have experienced issues later on related to the short cutting of leak detection and proper evacuation?
@@robyoung1798 I'm sure that most probably turned out okay if their flares were made correctly and torqued properly. On the other hand, there's some that would have leaks down the road. Some on this channel have admitted to small leaks that showed up a month or so later after their installation. And I would guess that the ones that you see on UA-cam if they did have a leak later, of course are not going to tell you about it 😊 In any event Rob, good luck on your installation and hope all works out!
You my friend are the best Teacher and very gifted in explaining sometimes complex formulas. I am hooked on your site, keep up the good work, its some of the best on youtube by far.
Thank you very much and glad to hear that you like the videos. Take care and have a great day!
Your instructions are very detailed and perfect Thank you both!
Thank you very much Rudra and have a great weekend!
Very glad you made this video...very helpful
I couldn't figure out how I was going to bend a 5/8 inch suction line where it came through the outside wall on a LG 24.000 unit. After much angst and realizing that all the fancy benders I own won't really get up close I used a spring that was about 16 - 20 inches long that fit the INSIDE diameter with just a little play. Stuck the spring in the tubing and just grabbed it and bent the nicest 90 degree you can get and it was not the least bit distorted. You then just pull the spring out maybe twist it a little to cause it to give up a little diameter dimension and you saved yourself a whole lot of time and money with no cursing at kinks. Best thing ever and simple. Makes the big suction line bending a breeze. Check out the long plastic lines they sell that fit the tubing ID if you really want to go pro.
Thanks James for the comment and your experience in using a spring that fits inside the tubing. Never tried that method before on the inside, but will keep it in mind :)
There is such a thing as spring benders that help prevent you from bending wrong. Most mini split indoor units already have them on there just so that it prevents most DIYers from bending wrong.
I watched this 4 times. Very patient and thorough instructions!!
You had to break a record Ron to watch it four times 😊 Glad to hear that you liked the video.
@@stuzman52 , yeah, I ordered my NOT-DIY kit 3 weeks ago. I don't want any problems cause MrCool will not warranty my self-installed system.
@@rondail5675 I could be wrong Ron, but I thought that MrCool units were tailored for the DIY. From what you're saying, it sounds like they want a qualified HVAC technician for the warranty to be valid. Bummer....
Like Steve, I've never heard of a "line set". I always learn something here. Nice tubing bender and torque wrench. Wow, nice work Terry.
Thank you very much Wyatt and line set is a term that's used commonly in the HVAC industry for the refrigerant lines from the evaporator to the condenser. Having the right tools for the job helps make it a lot easier. Thanks for dropping in!
great explanation of how to use that style of bender!
Thank you very much Eli!
Thank you for the great video. Just finished instilling my mini split and your measurements worked perfect.
Glad to hear the video worked good for you Mike and thanks for dropping in and leaving a comment!
I just installed 2 units myself. It seems that these line sets are rather easy to hand bend. Sure, if you want to follow the line set cover, you will end up needing 90 degree bends. Otherwise, I prefer the bends to be at bigger angles to be less restrictive of refrigerant flow.
Your electrical work looks professionally done. Thanks so much for the educational video on the line set installation.
Thank you very much!
Fab video. It was the first one I saw that made me think I could do this. I only add this thought. When I cross referenced your radius bends with the install instructions for my Mitsubishi H2i minisplit, I found that Mitsubishi wanted 4 inch radius bends. I did some fast research and rediscovered spring benders. I put the 3-in1 radius bender back in the box and tried the spring benders. By the way the set of benders I bought were older Craftsman on ebay. I already recalled my satisfaction for owning a Craftsman socket set for over 50 years. Now some folks on the internet complained of difficulty getting the springs off the tubing after making bends. I found no such trouble with the Craftsman 1/4" and 3/8" springs. They actually have wiggle room when you slide them on. Real nice and easily made bends. Also whenever possible I sub two 45 degrees bends for a 90. Only 90s I make on the first of 4 installs at my home were for where the tubing exits the room and where it exits the exterior wall. Hopefully I have the same luck moving forward. Yes I was able to tuck the spring onto the tube and make bends while tuibg exits the walls. I can not speak for newer spring benders as far as how they slide onto tubing or how they slide off after making a bend. If this helps someone great. By the way for where tubing mates with another tube, I purposely overshoot the length needed. Then I measure from flare to the overshooting tube. This tells me where to cut and flare. Plus with a little slack, I can have a mulligan should I have an issue with leaking or a poorly made flare.
Thank you Paul for sharing your experiences!
Tools and knowledge makes a job. Thanks great video. From my hill top in. Sc
Neat and clean with accurate description.
I guess the thumbs down are from HVAC techies who hate to see these a video well done to describe the job precisely.
Thank you Sebastian!
You got that right! I contacted four local HVAC technicians about doing the refrigeration-portion of my mini-split install and none of them were interested. They wanted to whole job or nothing...nothing is fine with me! Knowledge is power!
Great Job,those pro grade tools are real nice and show how it should be done.
Thank you Matt! Having some good tools make a job a lot easier for sure. 😊
Really Great detail. I ordered the same tubing bender and am patiently awaiting Home Depot to bring in my ac unit so I can try it out.
The bender I was using is very good and does a great job in bending the tubing. The instructions were clear and hopefully the video is clear in using it. Good luck Joseph on your installation!
A great number of Mini Splits come with 10 feet, 15 feet or sometimes 25 feet of tubing with factory flares on each end.
In most cases the linset can only be cut back a foot or two from its original length because the tubing is formed in the shape of a spiral to prevent collapse (kinking) and aid in bending and routing of the line set.
So, if you have a 25 foot lineset, you may only be able to lop off a foot on each end before you meet up with the formed spiral which cannot be flared. In many cases you'll see the excess tubing coiled up behind the Condenser unit.
However, if you use your own copper and are making your own set then of course you can make it any length you want but you do lose the ease of bending it and forming it over the factory supplied lineset and of course you don't get the coveted factory insulation and machine flared ends that's so important to most DIY'ers.
In the cases that you describe where the tubing is coiled, most of these units have the line set precharged with refrigerant in which case the manufacturer, (Mr. Cool as an example) doesn't want it to be cut. Otherwise, the refrigerant will come out of the lineset. In my case, the line set is not precharged and came with a 5m lineset. As you said, cutting off a foot or two isn't going to hurt the unit's efficiency. And as for the factory flared ends, I've seen some that needed to be cut off and flared again. Thanks for the comment!
@@stuzman52 Question: My condenser is precharged for up to 25' of line set. I had an HVAC guy tell me that those type of systems are designed for that length of line set and you cannot cut off much length? I probably only need 10'.
@@MrMike27m The best answer Mike is to call the manufacturer and ask them.
@@MrMike27m manufacturers I've seen publish minimum lene set lengths. Check the installation manual
Great job! Love the attention to detail!
Thank you very much Thomas! As for the detail, I'm not sure if it's from my OCD or engineering background :)
Great job!!! Excellent video. Very detailed and explained very well. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks, I learn a lot about these tips. I'm getting ready to do my mini-spilt unit here next week, waiting on this tool.
Thanks for the comment and good luck on your install!
Looking good Terry and getting closer to your shop completion!
Thank you Bob and it's getting one step closer for sure :)
Most line sets for this type of a/c require a 15' line set at the minimum. Did you check to make sure it was able to be cut at the length you required? Thanks for sharing.
Yes, you are correct about the line-set being a minimum length. In my case, it was 12'. That's why you don't see the line-set coming straight down the wall to the outside unit which would have been about 8' long. That's the need for the 90 degree turn to create the extra length running down horizontally to the outside unit. Great question and have a great day!
Thanks, nice job on the lines.
Thank you very much and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 You're welcome. One thing, I'm installing a Senville and I noticed the instructions say 4"(10cm) min refrigerant line bends. I notice yours are less, is there a problem with making them less? Efficiency?
@@mosfet500 I didn't actually measure the radius of the bends, but can say that I haven't had any issues with the unit. There wasn't any mention of minimum radius' of bends in my installation manual for the unit. Good luck with the installation of your unit!
what hacks downvoted smh...great video pure craftsmanship
Thank you Shawn!
Thank you so much that’s just fantastic work you really nailed it and made this feel approachable to me
Thank you Jack and if you take your time and do some research, any job is not that bad.
You Sir, and your Assistant, have put together a fantastically detailed instructional video on installing a mini-split system. I am in the process of doing the same. My question today is, did you bend the copper lines from the evaporator unit before pushing them through the wall or did you bend them afterwards. If so, how did you bend them without crimping them? Thanks
Thanks for watching and sharing a comment! The line-set from the evaporator is placed through the hole in the wall being straight. You will hand bend these lines one at a time. Place your hand as far back into the opening to allow for the bend to be as close to the wall coming down. You're trying to get part of the radius to be as close to the wall as possible. You will find that the smaller tubing will bend easily without collapsing. When working with the larger line such as the 1/2", bend this line very slowly as it will have a tendency to collapse. Just be the lines slowly and you should be fine. Have a great day!
Great work Terry ! Stay cool !!
N Smith Thank you very much Norman! You stay cool too! 😀
Beautiful work
Hey Jonathan! Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment!
Excellent attention to the details of installation of mini split. what are the pros & cons of cutting a section of tubing out and silver soldering the ready made flared ends?
Thank you Mike! You can do that, but you'll want to allow nitrogen to flow inside the lines to prevent oxidation while you're silver soldering. To me, it's just extra work and when properly torqued, the fittings should be fine.
Thank you for the great video.
Thank you very much!
sir i wished i could work right by your side! you are very good and smart man!
Hi Arieldny and sorry for the delay as UA-cam did not contact me. Not sure about being smart as researching the work as much as possible before doing the job :)
Your video series is the best I’ve seen. I am installing a pioneer and the nuts on my line set says 5/8 and they def are not.
Hi Jason and thank you very much! Maybe they're talking about the O.D. of the line-set. Not sure on that one. Also, to help enrichen your installation, be sure to check out this video of a professional tech who does a step-by-step install of a mini-split. Good luck with your install. ua-cam.com/video/JQkth-AM5CE/v-deo.html
Did you just put a square on that copper Terry!!!??? You da man 💪
Thanks Chris! Just keeping it real 😊
Nice work Terry. We had two heat pumps installed last year. Beats lighting the fire in winter and helps us stay cool in summer. Not something we're allowed to do ourselves here but always handy to know how to do it. Ours use R32 refrigerant which seems to be the latest and greatest stuff. Cheers
Heat pumps are nice for sure Jonathan and it sure beats keeping a fire stoked to stay warm. Around here, R410A is still pretty prominent, but with our EPA, I'm sure that will change in the future. Thanks for dropping in!
Thanks so much. About to try a fujitsu mini split install
You're welcome James and I'm working on a video now which shows the difference between a micron gauge and a vacuum gauge as used on a manifold gauge set. I believe that you will find it very useful. Have a good weekend!
Fantastic tutorial video!!!! Thank you!!!!
Thank you Nelson!
Great video, thanks a lot. I have never heard of preload when tightening line set. Is it required? Did I understand it that you tighten with one torque, then unscrew and then retighten with more torque?
Hi Andrey and thanks for sharing a comment! Yes, you are correct and most of the manuals state to tighten the torque to some setting, loosen the fitting and then re-tighten to a higher torque setting. Have a great day!
Very informative video !! Also I was looking at installing a 3 zone mini split in my house and was curious about installing them on interior walls ??? I believe it can be done but will be hard. Do you have any advice in this
Yes, it will be more involved installing your unit on an indoor wall. You'll have to consider the number of bends, the length of the tubing. All units are filled with refrigerant to a specified maximum length of tubing. Most that I've seen is around 5 m or about 15 feet. You'll have to add refrigerant to the system for the added length of tubing. This info should be in the manual for your unit. Good luck on your installation and have a great day!
We do our bends with plastic ratchet bender. No need to remove insulation and just do 1/2 pipe or larger, the 1/4 follows by hand, just takes 10 min or so..
Other thing I recommend: don't let the grass grow behind the unit. I'd sit the whole thing on large paver stones
Always more than one way to skin a cat!
stuzman. Agreed! Take whatever time is needed to do a nice job, you can drive off in confidence, with a happy customer.
System still working good no problem
Still working good Wallace, both in heat or cool modes.
Can you bend the line set by hand to fit in the lin set cover is the bender really necessary?
Very neat job
Thank you Manny!
Nice work. I’m in the process of installing a Pioneer minisplit in my garage. I plan on making the two 90 degree +/- bends by hand. Seemed to work out on the Samsung minisplit I installl in our home.
Your bend on the stubouts from the indoor unit look good. I assume they were done by hand?
Thanks for the videos, they’ve been very helpful. I appreciate your attention to detail.
Yes, the stubs from the indoor unit were bent by hand.
Wow, What a true craftsman! Thanks for such a great lesson on HVAC!
Thank you John for dropping by and leaving a comment!
AWESOME JOB!
Thank you very much Chris and have a great day!
Nice Job!!! Just curious one year later how is your Pioneer doing and how often do you run it? Again super nice job and thanks for posting.TM
The unit is still holding up very well Terry! I would say on the average, I've been in the garage 2 to 3 times a week this summer. Last year during the winter, my step-son worked on his Toyota and said that he had to turn it off because it got to hot inside the garage. The temps outside were in the upper 30's. Thanks for dropping in and sharing a comment!
Wow I never heard of a line set before . Just awesome job Terry so precise and neat . Man you have some tools - never seem a torque wrench like that either. I just bought a 1/2 conduit bender , now I have to see if I can figure it out 😂😂 is all your conduit in your garage 1/2 ? .
Thank you Steve! And just think of the other tools that's never been seen :) Most of the conduit in the garage was 1/2", but there was some 3/4" also. Ah, you'll be bending conduit in no time as it's pretty easy stuff. Most 1/2" benders will be a take-up of 5" to deduct for 90 degree stub. Your bender should come with instructions on how to use it. Once you get it figured out, make a video to show other folks how to use it. :))
bom dia instalação feita com capricho parabéns
Muito obrigado pelo seu comentário!
Most of the time I see a mini split installation , the workmanship makes me puke. This guy is exactly how I like to see work done. When he is done no one can say anything bad and they fume inside knowing they will never be as attentive to detail as this guy is. Great job, you're hired.
Thank you James for the kind words!
..you're just showing off your awesome array of tools, and I love it. I was trying to find out how you connect the wiring from the compressor to the inside unit. Some use conduit, some don't. Thumbs up anyway.
You're correct Mark that people will connect the wiring between the two units in different ways which all are okay. In my case, I used the control wiring without any raceway and used a romex connector to secure the cable within the inside unit. If you're asking about the actual wiring hookup on the terminals, you can download the manual for the unit that you're interested in and it will have all of the info there. Thanks Mark for the comment!
Great job as usual
Thanks Kevin!
Good day Stuzman...quick question did you braze the 2 24" lineset 1/4" and 3/8" that were cut back together or were they compression fitting fitted back together??? Or was the 2 cut pieces used as a reference for a fresh 1 piece for the linsets.... Also how did you get the lineset insulation back on the linsets after the bends?
Shawn, everything that you mention is shown in the video. The 24" lengths were not used. No brazing was done and no compression fittings were used. The tubing had flared connections on both ends. The tubing was shortened leaving the flaring on one end of each tubing. The tubing was cut to length at the outdoor unit and those ends were flared. And the insulation just slid back on after the bends. All in the video...
Is there any reason your copper lines can’t be cut and soldered for tight 90 turns? I see most minis are retrofit but if I had a new construction install, I’d like my lines out instead of drilling a 4” hole?
If you prefer to have 90 degree elbows to be soldered, you can do that.
Hi. I in the process of installing my own mini split but got stuck on how to bend the 5/8" copper line. Is the pipe bender something you rented or bought?
Also because I wasn't able to finish the install I taped the copper ends to prevent any moisture or debree getting in. Would it be okay to leave it like thisfor few days until I am able to find a 5/8 pipe bender and finish the install?
Thank you for the detailed video.
Albert
The tubing bender shown in the video is a bought item which can bend 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" tubing. The tubing should be fine plugged up, but keep it inside so there isn't wide temperature changes. You don't want condensation to start forming inside the tubing. Good luck on your install Albert!
hey @stuzman, thanks for the video! you’ve given me the confidence to tackle these lineset bends i’ll need to do.
on a side note, may i ask where you got the electrical connector for your black control cable? looks like it fits perfectly
Thank you neppy5 and glad you found the video helpful. I got the 1/2" strain relief connector from work. You should be able to get it from one of the big box stores or from Amazon. Here is a link to homedepot that shows several styles. www.homedepot.com/s/1%252F2%2522%2520strain%2520relief%2520connector?NCNI-5
@@stuzman52 perfect! thanks so much stuzman, I like your channel, you deal with interesting topics and approach it with a very methodical engineering mindset, good stuff
@@neppy5 Thank you very much and good luck with your installation of your mini-split.
What kind of disconnect did you use for the outdoor compressor? Amps rating,Make and part number or link would be greatly appreciated. Thank you much
The 30A/250VAC fusible two pole disconnect I used was picked up from Home Depot, but Lowes has similar ones. Here is one from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-AC-Disconnect-30-Amp-2-Pole-Fusible-NEMA-3R-DPF221RP/202106492 As for the fuses, I used 15A/250VAC dual-element time delay fuses, part number FRN-R-15. I believe I picked these up at Lowe's, but here is a link to Amazon for reference www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-FRN-R-15-Fusetron-Time-Delay/dp/B00004WA2V/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MZDR2WS6ELNT&keywords=frn-r-15&qid=1566170131&s=gateway&sprefix=frn-r-15%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3 As for feeding the disconnect, 12AWG THHN wire was used as the wiring was inside of conduit. And the disconnect was fed from a 20A/240VAC 2-pole circuit breaker. Keep in mind this is for the Pioneer 12KBTU 240VAC unit as I don't know what unit you plan to install. So, if you have a different size unit, these items could be the wrong size.
Ive seen a lot of UA-cam Minisplit installs , I would pay you what ever you wanted to install mine , Excelent job You have mad skills .
Thank you Derek! I appreciate the kind words!
@@stuzman52 where did you get that part that goes into the electrical panel for the wires from the indoor unit ?
@@uwsome1 I assume Derek that you're talking about the disconnect next to the outside unit. If so, I picked it up at Home Depot. If that's not the part you're referring to, just clarify your description a little better and I'll try to help you.
@@stuzman52 not the disconnect. white plastic part next to the disconnect on the condenser where the control wires go into the condenser
@@uwsome1 If I understand you correctly Derek, are you referring to the strain relief connector that is securing the control cable going into the condenser unit control cover?
Very well done. My unit should be here in a few days. I was 'chatting' online with the vendor about the flare nut sizes and bending.
one thing he said was they recommend no more than 3 bends, max of 4. I planned on more with 25ft lines. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
For every bend, there is a small pressure drop and they can add up which degrades performance. If you can, I would rethink the installation to try and keep the bends down if possible.
makes sense, will try my best. Thanks. Mr Cool flex lines would have been a plus I guess
How do I account for the line sets being a different length where I start at. I think my smaller 1/4” line is 1.5” longer than my other line? Do I just add that to the end measurement?
I'm not sure if you're talking about the 1/4" is too long and if it is, cut the line and re-flair it. Or if you're talking about you need to make an adjustment in your measurement because you're bending the tubing.
@@stuzman52 my bad I wasn’t very clear lol I meant the lineset coming from the inside air handler outside the wall where u connect flared ends but after watching ur video a couple more times I understood how u we’re getting ur measurements. I had mine figured out and called pioneer to ask a question and they told me not to do any 90s if I could avoid it which sounded crazy to me. Your install looks the best for sure
@@Michiganbreadboyz_bt8919 Thanks for the comment! I remember calling them and asking what was the minimum length for the line-set. He said it should be no shorter than 10' and it could have 90s, but keep them to a minimum. I guess it depends on who you talk to that you might get a different answer. Have a great day!
How did you bend the tubing coming thru the wall? That 90 degree bend is impossible to get a bender on it.
You are correct Dave that a bender will not fit in such a tight space. You'll have to bend the lines by hand SLOWLY so they don't kink. Have a great day!
Good Job , i' m sure he will install mini-split heat pump for the NASA space program ! They get the budget for sotch a précision calculation for bending tubes with a un match accuracy ...
Any particular reason you chose Pioneer? How is it performing? Was the factory warranty voided since you did it yourself?
Basically went for the lower price James although you can get a higher seer unit, the cost will go up. I'm very happy with its performance and have no regrets picking the unit. As for the factory warranty, I'm not sure about that, but I do have a universal certification for section 608 and a certification for section 609.
I've put in 5 of these so far. The first four I did. To get factory warranty it required you to take pressure and voltage readings and send in to them and also they required you to provide your state license number. The last one I did they didn't require you to provide a license number for the factory warranty.
Can you tell me where you purchased the mounting frame for the outdoor compressor unit? Great video. Thanks for posting!
Here you go.... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
27:42 - isnt that line supposed to come from the bottom to drain away all of the rain from the unit, so why does the unit has the main connection points going upwards ????
I asked and received. Great job Terry nice and neatly done. I may nominate you for my annual perfection trophy! 😁 Is that unit 410a?
I remembered that you wanted to see the line set installation, so you might can say the video was for you. Annual perfection trophy WOW! Never had one of them :) Yes, this unit uses R410A. Thanks for dropping in!
I have a question on Tightening torques. I see you tighten and and then retighten again with added force. If installation manual shows 2 values like this: 13.0- 18.0 ft-lbs does it mean 13 is a first and then 18 ? Thanks
In some of the installation manuals depending on the make, model of your unit, it will actually tell you to loosen the fitting and retighten it to a higher torque value. If it doesn't say to loosen the fitting, then the torque setting that you mention means that you can tighten it to a range of 13-18 ft-lbs. and you're done.
@@stuzman52 Than you for your reply! your videos are super helpful in repairing my system.
@@kirill_gusev You are welcome Kirill and Merry Christmas to you and your family!
@@stuzman52 Thank you again! I'm still in disbelieve but my system is up and running! Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.
awesome job. a pro.
Thank you very much Angel!
@@stuzman52 I cant find anyone to install in an r.v. Austin area if anyone knows anyone as good as this guy message me.
great video thanks I just had 2 of these put in my 1890 house I used the down stairs for the first time it ran all day and I canme home and every thing was wet all the condensation instead of going out side down the tube it came inside. the carpet , bed every thing was just soaking wet what did the man do wrong thanks I called him and he is to come out today to fix it. thanks
It could be that the condensate line going outside from the indoor unit has a kink in it. Another possibility is that the louvre door on the indoor unit could be at too steep of a vertical angle. This could cause the air being blow out to actually pick the condensate inside the pan of the indoor unit onto its surroundings. I'm sure that the technician will get you all taken care of.
@stuzman : This was very comprehensive. Thanks for that. I have a question. My unit has a 3/8" and a 5/8" line set. The tool you have used doesn't work with 5/8" tube. And when I look for such a tool on Amazon, I find very expensive solutions, a huge price jump from the imperial brand tool that you have shown. Do you have any suggestion for a tube bender that can work with both 3/8" and 5/8" tubes ?
:)
Yes, they get a little pricey for the larger sizes. The best that I could find is one that can do from 1/4" to 7/8" and includes a plastic case to house all of the benders. www.amazon.com/Bender-Refrigeration-Ratcheting-Tubing-benders/dp/B07W4JW827
@@stuzman52 Thanks. I got one by Hilmor.
Abhinav Gaur Great picking from Hilmor! I have a few tools from them and they are top notch.
Can you tell me how do you bend the lines that come out of the inside unit through the wall. The tube bender is too big for that, I do not want to kink them, I have one 1/2 " line. Thank you
You'll do that by hand and you will do it with very small bends. Just take your time and it should be fine.
They sell these mini splits under the suggestion that they are user-friendly and rather simply DIY projects. I have found the whole project to be EXTREMELY difficult and very time consuming. Plus, like clockwork, I keep returning to hardware stores and online ordering to be MANY specialized tools which I have never before needed in my life. Plus, in my own case, I have faced a mountain of obstacles that are not encountered in any of the installation videos I have seen. I am quite handy and experienced with tools, and have countless tools, but I doubt I will ever again use these many hundreds dollars worth of new special tools acquired for this installation. It has been a long time, and still nowhere close to finished.
Who makes the black brackets that you have inside the duct for holding the line set?
I don't know the manufacturer, but here's the link to where they were purchased. On the website, they're listed as item 'B'. www.mcmaster.com/zip-tie-anchors/cable-tie-mounts-6/
@@stuzman52 Thank you
I echo all the other comments on the quality of this video, nice job sir! What flaring/cutting kit were you using, thanks.
The flaring kit that was used is from Hilmor. The link is here www.trutechtools.com/1937685
Professional 👍👍👍
Thank you El, I appreciate it!
my most favorite part of making the perfect hose flare, is looking over at the work bench to find the fitting i forgot to put on.
Happens to all of us! Have a good one!
@@stuzman52 happens to all of us, once. and some of us, many times
How is that Pioneer mini split performing after 4 years?
Hi Thomas and hope you're doing well! Since I installed this unit, it's still running good, and I haven't done a single thing to it other than clean the filter covering the indoor head. Have a great day!
My 10 and 14 yearold girls just flared some practice line sets with the yellow jacket non concentric tool. Also it seems lowes sell a similar tool for only 40 some dollars instead of the yellow jackets 170 price if your only doing a couple of lines..
Yes, the non-concentric flaring tools will also work.
Thanks for your reply. Do you know if parts are readily available?
Which parts are you referring to James?
Any part that may break.
you might have to recover some refrigerant depending on minimum pipe length.
The minimum tubing length for the charge installed in the outside unit would be 10 feet. Any shorter than this would require some recovery of the refrigerant. The maximum length of the tubing would be up to 15 feet. After that, more refrigerant would need to be added. These lengths were published in the installation manual. In my case, I used 12 feet of the line set, so all is good. It's a good question to keep in mind and one should use their manual to determine if other manufacturer's lengths may vary.
This is something I hear a lot but doesn't need to be done. 10ft is the minimum line set length, not due to refrigerant charge, but for compressor discharge during heat mode. If it isn't long enough you'll end up hearing it inside.
Holy crap, you kind of remind me of myself sometimes. The habits of keeping the tubes closed is rather old school. Tipping the line set down, the small details of it all. You didn’t mention it BUT the open endwrenches were flare wrenches, specifically designed for flare nuts... after many years of having a whole set of them, I noticed I never had a need for them. Removing the line set just to flare them was a bit over the top, ... remember this is soft copper and they are very flexible lines, especially in those diameters. I must say I did lIke the pad and stand, but all those modifications and replacing hardware and supports... spells “The anal retentive mechanic”. I think I’ll need to re evaluate my own behaviors. All in all a great install... Keep in mind, I had no criticism of any work done, but no employer would allow you to take all those steps, and start screaming” pick up the pace, why are you taking so long?
Sorry for the late reply as I just noticed your comment now. UA-cam hasn't sent me any notifications in months. Just wanted to say thank you for your comment and you're right that no employer would have someone spend so much time on a system. However, since it's my own unit, I like to have things as right as I can. Thanks again for dropping in and sharing a comment!
Installation manual of my unit calls for an oil return bend. Is this not required for Pioneer units? Any guidance on creating a bend?
There was no mention of an oil return for my unit in the manual. You could ask Craig over at www.acservicetech.com and see what he says about it. He also has a UA-cam channel where you could ask him there also. His channel is located at ua-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.html?disable_polymer=1
It depends on the height difference btw inside and out if you need one. However there is no mention of needing one in the Pioneer install manuals. But they do have a maximum height diff btw inside and outside units.
I wanted to prepare and finalise my self install on my Mini Split System Installation (needing longer line set and additional freon put into the system by a HVAC Tech) awaiting the HVAC tech appointment next week. Would you happen to know if its ok to uncap my line set and install on one end to the (Head Unit ) and not finish the startup till the xtra freon is installed? Would there be any issue with existing moisture in the lines from sitting for a week or so?
I would just leave it capped G man until the HVAC guy got there. Never a good idea to keep a system open for that period of time to moisture. Hope all goes well with the installation!
@@stuzman52 Hello Stuzman. My plan was not to leave it open to the air but take the caps off and immediately make the connection at the indoor head unit pipes and then finish bending and routing the pipes thru to the outside wall , tie wrapping everything down and make the final cut to length of the lineset at the outside compressor, flare those ends and screw on permanently or temporarily till the AC Tech comes over to install more freo because of the longer lineset I had to use. What do you think considering all these points?
G man Since you’ll be doing a fair amount of work before the tech comes, go ahead and do it as you describe. Although your system isn’t open to the atmosphere, you’ll still have moisture in the line set for about a week. You should be okay, until he comes. If you’ve got a vacuum pump, you could pull it down until he comes. Either way you should be okay.
@@stuzman52 I actually have a friend with the vacuum pump. Your saying pulling a vacuum isn't just to check for leaks but it also sucks out all the moisture in the lines.
G man Exactly G man, you’re not only pulling the air out but also the moisture that’s in the air. 👍
Where did you get the zip tie brackets to hold the line set & wire in the duct?
The zip tie brackets were purchased from this website www.mcmaster.com/zip-tie-holders and is listed as item B
Recently installed warm air.Had HVAC guy check refrigerant said good
Very nice documentation on your install. Can I ask what brand of line hide you used and whether you were disappointed at all with its fitment?
I also want to hide two linesets on vinyl siding, both with horizontal AND vertical runs. My home's siding has no flats like yours does, it has two bevels and I'm concerned that after attaching the horizontal runs to one of the bevels, they are not going to square up with the vertical run's elbows. Any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated?
Hello pepaudio! I was quite happy with the duct used to hide the line set which came from Amazon. The only thing that I did different was to replace all the screws with stainless steel. I'm not sure about how to handle your situation with your siding other than making a spacer to allow for the discrepancy. Here is a link to the duct that I used and good luck on your installation. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWNQL4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In new house construction can these line sets be run in the exterior wall?
Shouldn't be any problem as they are insulated along with the insulation in the walls if there is any.