I follow this fella to the "T" and it is definitely worthwhile. He is exceptionally knowledgeable so much so I went as far as purchasing (or replacing inferior equipment I have had) every piece of equipment he shows in this video. Yes, it cost quite a bit for a residential DIY fanatic (me) but I like to have the right tools. Couple that with his definitive explanation and now I have a well-running Dual mini-split system and a happy wife. He has been incredibly generous with his time and is very patient in his explanations, and no I am not related to him. I have found that it is not necessary to jump around to different UA-cam HVAC presentations as you will not find any better than Mr. Stuzman.
Thank you very much Norman and the most important info that I picked up in this comment is that the wife is happy! And when you can do that, you're making lots of progress in life :)) Have a great day Norman and glad to hear that your unit is working well!
Thank you! I've spent many hours trying to learn best practices for muni split install and line set bending/flaring etc and your videos are hands down the most informative. Somehow you manage to cover everything. Great job.
Mr Stuzman. I can't thank you enough for your mini split videos. I have watched all four and after watching I decided to install a 18Kbtu mini split heat pump myself in my garage workshop. I followed all your processes from bending and flaring the line set, torquing the flare nuts and pressure testing with nitrogen. I was able to vacuum my system down to a stable 198 microns. Using the two core removal tools proved to be good advice. The system is working great. Thank you for your expertise in showing your install process. I appreciated it very much. Thank your wife for the excellent camera work too.
It's really great Carl to hear that you did a great job with the installation of your mini-split. I'll tell the wife about her filming and wish the best for you and your family! Have a great day!
*It’s: Pretty. Quiet. **Fastly.Cool** in my room. Works wellLittle of hassle to install was TOTALLY worth it. I’m loving it so far. I recommend watching the installation video and taking it slow~*
I've installed 3 mini splits by myself (I got EPA's HVAC license priort to). Your instruction was the best out there. Thank you for the clear & concise instructions that helped me save hundreds of $$$ and do the job right.
Thank you very much for watching the video and for leaving a comment! I'm glad to hear that you are have successful installations. Keep up the good work!
Man, you're a genius. First helped a few years ago to repair Jetta VR6 Secondary Air Injection (reused that part after soaking it... still working years later).. and the door latch repair.... and now Mini-Splits. You're the man!
I viewed the entire playlist; Mini-Split Heat Pump Install, Pressure Test and Vacuum. I wanted to thank you for the very professional, educational, and enjoyable series of videos. The subject matter, camera work, and detailed information included in the videos is first rate. I can tell that you are passionate about the projects that you tackle and way you present the information makes it easy to follow and understand. I’m currently installing a mini-split in my garage. Your videos convinced me of the importance of pressure testing with nitrogen and using a micron gauge instead of relying on the compound gauge to determine when a sufficient vacuum level had been reached. I spent more money on tools than I had planned, but It’s like they say: “The cheap comes out expensive”. Better to do it right the first time than to have to do it over. Thank again and keep up the good work!!
Thank you Edward for the comment and glad to hear that you found the videos informative. Just trying to get information out there for viewers like yourself who wants to install their own unit. It sounds like you're way ahead of the game to do the job right. Good luck on your install.
wyattoneable It’s not bad at all Wyatt, and I know that you could do the same thing with no problems. I just picked things up over the years; nothing special. 😀👍
I follow several HVAC channels as I am fanatic when it comes to technical DYI information. I must say you are by far The best of the best when it comes to doing everything by the book and technically correct. My hats off to you for a museum quality installation and excellent quality video and narration.
Humm! This is the first video I've watched. You did a fantastic job, but Craig over at A/C svc may have you beat. Lol. Seriously though, I just subscribed and I'm looking forward to watching more of your content.
Great video. I was able to piece this process together a few years back when I installed one at my house, but this video perfectly explains the procedure all in one concise video.
Excellent tutorial! I’m preparing for a dual zone mini-split installation. Your tutorial has confirmed my decision go acquire a micro gage to perform the mini-split vacuum.
I do have a couple of follow up questions. 1) I have purchased a dual zone Gree heat pump. After reviewing installation guides and on line tutorials I have concluded that given that the install will have line sets less than 25 feet, adding refrigerant will not be required.....is this correct? 2). This installation will be a swap out of an older existing mini-split. I am assuming that there will be special processes in handling the refrigerant lines and disposal of the heat pump. Is this correct?
I am planning on installing a mini split for my 2nd story and wanted to know about making line sets. I stumbled across your video, and in the beginning thought you were too detailed. But after watching the entire series, i understand why. You Sir, are a dedicated individual. UA-cam could use more individuals like you that are more geared towards making sure your viewers understand the process and not trying to make Discovery Channel entertainment.
Thank you fatnate1000 and I always believe that if one wants to do a job, I'll try to make it detailed so that an individual can see the steps involved. Yes, if I was to make a three minute, what would be the point of making the video if you don't know how to do the job. Thanks again for watching the series as I appreciate it!
Ok, I feel like an idiot. But it's my first mini split install. I pressure tested and evacuated my first lineset, then released the refrigerant into that lineset. I thought, Oh boy let's try it out. Head unit blows hot air, condenser fan is running , but no cooling going on. Ok, I figure I must need to hook up the other linesets to lower refrigerant pressure. I'm rewatching Stuzman doing his release of refrigerant and then I see him open another valve on the pressure side of compressor. I think, wow, I didn't open the valve on high side. I open it, then turn system on and to my amazement, the head unit starts blowing cool air!! What a Newb I am!! I'm glad I rewatched his video. He saved my day. Now to hook up the other two head units to the compressor. I'm really jazzed!!! Thank you Mr Stuzman!
Your timing couldn't be better.I'm a homeowner installing a 3 head unit. Got an est. of 15K. Thanks to your videos you saved me about 5K inc. tool purchases!
I don't know if you still monitor this video, Mr Stuzman, but I want you to know that it's very nice to view a thoughtful/helpful (and extremely practical) video made by a fellow southerner. I really wish there were many many more like it. A whole lot less BS and a whole lot more down to earth information is what folks struggling to make ends meet actually need to keep from being taken advantage of by those who would prey on people in need. Our 12-year old Mitsubishi mini split went down after a nearby lightning strike, so we've been without AC for most of the summer. Considering that the insurance company offered us just over $300 to have repair work performed - and the local HVAC thieves wanted as much as $10K to replace our (single zone) mini split system - we decided to buy our own system and give it a go: we didn't have much choice. The point being that your video has gone an awful long way toward giving us the confidence to test out our own new system before possibly wasting the expensive refrigerant that came with our 24K BTU condenser unit! Thank you, sir, I have both liked and subscribed to your channel.
10K to install a single stage unit is pretty high. Good for you to install the system yourself and save some money. Since your last unit was taken out by a lightning strike, you may want to consider installing a suppression unit on the voltage input side of the system. Good luck with your install. Thanks for watching and sharing a comment. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for the reply, Terry. I'd like to ask you a question, sir. Why is your BluVac micron gauge mounted the way that it is? Is that a special adapter you're using to get more clearance for the gauge?
@@OldSchoolLFCGeezer The bent tubing that you see attached to the micron gauge comes with the micron gauge. If you're referring to the valve underneath it, that was installed to keep refrigerant oil from contaminating the sensor located in the micron gauge. Otherwise, when the refrigerant oil gets on the sensor, it would have to be cleaned. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi Terry ~ Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. By the way, I wanted to ask for your thoughts on my vacuum procedure. Late Thursday night, after completing a successful nitrogen pressure test, I set everything up exactly as you did in this video. The only things different in my setup were the absence of the bent 45-degree tubing I already asked about and the fact that I used a CPS VG200 micron gauge. It took roughly 10 minutes to get the vacuum in the setup down to 180 microns. About 20 minutes later, however, the vacuum had changed to 340 microns. As this reading was below the 500 micron limit, I went ahead and released the refrigerant stored in our new outdoor condenser unit. So far, the system seems to be working well, but I still wanted to ask you if the 160 micron reduction in vacuum that I observed (over 20 minutes) was a cause for concern?
@@OldSchoolLFCGeezer No, there is no need for concern on 160 micron level. It's normal for the system to pull to a lower level while the vacuum pump is running. And then when you close the valve and turn off the vacuum pump, the micron level will rise. The key is that it doesn't continue rising after a few minutes which signifies a leak. Another video that you may find interesting about a rising vacuum level is this video. ua-cam.com/video/cI6pSBaskjc/v-deo.html Have a great weekend!
Thanks again Stutzman. Here's what I did to vacuum my last mini install. I nitrogen tested my system, - tested good. I then slowly released the nitrogen until my gauge read low. I immediately put the valve removal tool on the mini port and the micron gauge directly on the valve removal tool.(mini core was already out). I vacuumed the system down to ~110 microns and shut the core tool valve off and let it sit for ten minutes - still held 110 microns. I then put the valve in and let a little refrigerant into the lines to build pressure, when everything was good I let all the refrigerant in tested for valve leaks and then removed the valve removal tool. My thinking is that the fewer connections the better, my system vacuumed to ~110 microns.
Sounds like you did a great job! Yes, you want the fewest connections when you're pressure testing or pulling a vacuum. Keep up the good work and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thanks. I think one thing I would change is that instead of replacing the valve at max vacuum I'd bring up the pressure slightly so that the it's just slightly positive 410A side so it's pretty much in balance. I did check the Appion valve tool and with vacuum it's showing ~18 microns with the valve opened. By the way the CPS Vg-200 meter is good for 450 psi with a burst of 3k psi, so even if it was full pressure from the mini it still wouldn't have a problem although I don't like to test that. As always you've been great help and I very much appreciate your videos and input.
Nice! Exactly how I installed mine.... tools too but I snagged a cheap US made vacuum pump 😉. You did your homework and to anyone watching this is how it’s done
Great video ! This is the only way to perform the vacuum procedure. After valving off the core removal tool, I’ve never before seen the micron gauge continue to decrease. I’ve always had it increase slightly as the vacuum equalises throughout the lineset
I have never installed an AC unit and been reading up on them. I am not an installer and have considered doing my own as the cost locally are really high >$30k for 2k home. I am an engineer so technical but there are so many things one does not know that they don't even know they don't know. The video was very detailed and you really like to be precise and that was great to see. I may just take the task on for at least my home office. I hope I have the patience to do it right like you did. I wish you were nearby and I would be your customer.
Thank you Barry for the comments! As you are an engineer, you know that any project is all about the details. I'm quite sure that if you were to install your own unit, you would research those details that you weren't sure about, and you would have an installation that you would be happy with. Thanks again Barry and have a great weekend coming up!
I just wanted to thank you for the great instructional videos. I completed my first mini split install (Mitsubishi) , following your detailed steps. These are appreciated!
one of the few diy vids that actually does it right. Gotta love the guys using dial gauges in other vids and saying they work good enough, yeah they work good enough to get the job done and get out of there before the compressor blows. Really tho anyone not using a micron meter might get lucky but it's just that, luck, cause you really don't know..
I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump or micron gauge. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor and regular gauges.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential. Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
@@Northeaster-b3w I wouldn't let you install a heat pump in a dog house. Yes your setup may let you know if there's major leaks, BUT that's all. Most heat pump manufacturers call for 500 microns or less, (which you can't even read with a dial guage) and there's a reason for that. There could be moisture in the system for example and you would never know it without the micron guage. When your cousin tony's compressor dies after 2 years you'll be like, man we won't be getting that brand again! When in reality it's actually your fault because you were just rolling dice hoping for the best. I installed ny first pump with dial guages 4 or 5 years ago and it's still going strong, but I realized later that I got lucky, simple as that..
@@neallyons9515 I do appreciate you saying that you have previously installed them with dial gauges and have since learned better. Learning is the reason I re-searched youtube, after not having installed any in about 3 years now. The 7 that I have installed have all been running between 3 and 7 years, but as I have 2 more to do soon, I wanted to see if any better videos existed than what was out there several years ago. I am glad I did. I am considering buying the CPS digital/micron gauge but will likely not put in many more after these two. As mentioned, I have only done this for family members for free.. they know our setup is crude and I will talk to them about the option of chipping in a bit to cover the costs of the gauges if they want to ensure success or if they prefer to do as we have before. I agree that I do not know how complete of a vacuum I have achieved, when using the dial gauges. But, the compressor is strong enough to pull the dial gauges down quickly and then I leave it running for a good length of time after that, knowing that it is continuing to pull finer amounts out the longer it is left on. re: possible moisture left in there, I doubt that would be the case, as I have purged the lines (and indoor coil) with nitrogen (cracking the opposite line fitting and letting all of the air out followed by a couple of minutes of nitrogen before tightening the fitting and pressure testing.) Then this is all vacuumed out, without letting air back in.... I release enough of the nitrogen to be at a few psi and then I turn the compressor on, and slowly open the valve. So, i could have some small amounts of nitrogen in there (knowing this is not ideal either..) but there is no chance of moisture being in there. If I do decide to buy a micron gauge, It looks like it's best to then buy 2 core removal tools and the reviews on cheaper ones are not great... the ones linked in this video have great reviews but at about $53 USD or $90 Cdn for me, two of these plus the CPS micron gauge( least expensive one i have seen with good reviews) adds another $220 Cdn so all totalled it would be pushing $500 Cdn for this added ability. If i have 5 more to do, it would be an easier choice. Still I would then be increasing chances of success and would have them for the future, if any of the others need work/ recharging, etc.
@@Froggability I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential. Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
Great video. It would be a good idea to exercise the valves of these 2 Core Removal Tools during the vacuum process. There are some air sealed inside these valves.
Hi Stuzman....I hope all is well. It's been 3 years since you helped direct me on some questions that I had on installing a mini split at my previous home. I have since moved to Colorado...and am installing 4 more Bosch mini splits. I made a stupid mistake the other day when trying to commission the first one... I vacuumed it down to 150 microns...and it held 170 for about an hour. I normally always break the vacuum with nitrogen, check for pressure leaks, and vacuum down again. Well...I ran out of Nitrogen so...I just followed the normal procedure. Unfortunately...I didn't check all the connections immediately after releasing the refrigerant. The line set connection to the indoor unit on the low pressure side blew out refrigerant. I didn't realize it until I started troubleshooting the next day when it stopped blowing warm air. The indoor unit is supposed to display a code for low refrigerant...but it did not. I put my pressure gauge on the service valve...and it was minimal if at all while running the AC. My plan was to recapture what refrigerant was remaining in the compressor...but since there was no pressure to speak of...all I could think to do was to close the ports to hopefully protect the compressor from air in system? I am getting my nitrogen refilled to hopefully not repeat same mistake. I don't mind buying refrigerant and scale and trying to correct my mistake. Curious as to your thoughts if I should have a service call to retest and refill...or make the investment? Thank you...
Hi Steve! Since you probably won't make this mistake again, you probably wouldn't use the scales again and it may be an issue to buy R410a if that's what your system is using if you don't have a certification license. Maybe the service call would be the best. Have a great day Steve!
Is that the pioneer stand? I am about to order my unit and tools..Thanks for the videos you do it right with no missed steps...Its worth it to me to spend the extra money on the tools and learn.. Its still way cheaper than hiring a guy who may or may not do it right.
Hi Dave! The stand was ordered from Amazon and is located here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I made some modifications to the stand where one was to shorten the legs. Yes, it helps to have the correct tools to do the job and you are correct that it's not a guarantee that a professional will do the job correctly. For the same size unit as mine, my neighbor says that a contractor wants $5000 to install it. That's a pretty hefty price. Have a great day and good luck on your install.
One more question if you please... I purchased a Senville 18K BTU Heat Pump H.S. pressure is 550 psig; L.S. pressure is 340 psig. When you performed a leak test, the lines were pressurized to 200 psig. Was that for a reason? I see others going up to 300 psig. Thanks! JT
No particular reason on the 200psig. Even at this pressure, you'll still be able to see a leak. In your case, I wouldn't push the pressure near the maximum of your lowest test pressure that was used at the factory. In your case, I would go for about 250psig and you'll be fine. At 300psig, you'll be getting pretty close to 340psig. At 250psig, you'll be allowing yourself a little margin of safety. Good luck on your installation!
Loving what your doing I actually run the same setup . However knock the second t off BluVac is pressure rated and refrigerant doesn’t effect the gauge at all just clean out with alcohol if any issues . The extra removal tool is just extra connections for leaks .
The only thing I may add is I would put the service valve cap on loose to check for leaks out of Schraeder port. Seems easier to check for leaks when I can maybe just see a few bubbles.
Great video, I am watching it again and again, and the more I understand the procedure the more questions I get :) 1. In the video about nitrogen test you used yellow jacket. Am I right we can just use the same micron gauge for the nitrogen pressure test? 2. I watched another video about triple evacuation - so one difference I found important: they first create a vacuum, and then introduce nitrogen, while you just introduce nitrogen into unpressurized lines. I would guess vacuum-then-nitrogen is cleaner. Any comments, please? Thanks again
In regards to your question #1, no, the micron gauge should not be used to measure the pressure of nitrogen in the system as the micron gauge is designed to measure vacuum. And you'll find that it can't measure pressure above atmospheric pressure. On mine it won't register any pressure until it gets to below 20,000 microns which is about 0.38psig. As for triple evacuation where one begins the evacuation with nitrogen is not really needed as it takes hours to assume that the nitrogen will absorb the moisture. Or that it really doesn't absorb the moisture but displaces it. The vacuum pump will lower the pressure, boil the water vapor at a lower temperature and then the pump will evacuate the water vapor. Here is an article where this is discussed it and in my opinion, triple evacuation is not really needed. hvacrschool.com/triple-evacuation-and-nitrogen-facts/
Great. I never saw you check the pressure on the high or low side after refilling the system however. I would think that you would do that when you first turned the system on for at least a few minutes. If you had lost some refridgerant, your low-side pressure would be too low, wouldn't it?
It's not necessary as the amount of refrigerant in taking off a line is minimal which is not going to effect the low side pressure to the point where the unit will not work.
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
Enjoyed the video. If the unit was empty would weigh the refrigerant in using the liquid line port off the compressor or would you add it on the suction line port where the line set attaches. Trying not to flood the compressor. Thank you
You'll only have one port to add the refrigerant. I would just put the refrigerant in as a liquid without the unit running. It's the same procedure when charging a vehicle. It's charged with a liquid without the engine running. As the liquid goes into the system, it will flash into a gaseous state. And since the unit is not running, you don't have to worry about flooding the compressor.
No problem at all at applying a very small amount of Nylog blue to the seal on the schrader valve. Also, you could apply a small amount of Nylog to the cone of the flaring tool as a lubricant when making your flares. And you could apply a small amount around the flare fitting. And be sure to torque the flares and not use an adjustable wrench to be sure that they're not over tightened.
@@stuzman52 Did a pressure test this morning (250 psi for 3 hours; rock solid! Pulled vacuum down to 64 microns in about 25 minutes (new pump and oil). Will see what the vacuum level is tomorrow. Maybe even do a test run! Thanks for the videos!
@@stuzman52 Up and running! I have a brand new Appion MegaFlow suction hose (p/n MH380006EAB) 5/16" one end / 1/4" other end. I will never use it since the pump I got has just 1/4" fittings. If you could use it, it's yours - no charge. Look at as a token of my appreciation for the excellent mini-split videos you posted! Let me know...
Love these videos of yours! Quick question about the mounting system that you have attached the condenser to; could you provide a source url etc., for the frame & is that a regular paving stone you have it anchored to?
Glad to hear Tim that you're enjoying the videos. As for the outdoor unit stand, it was ordered from Amazon where the link is here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I shortened the legs a little, replaced all the fasteners with stainless steel and repainted the assembly. As for the pad, I poured a concrete slab for it. Have a great day Tim!
Hi...thank you for your videos. I definitely learned a bunch and you have helped instill some confidence in doing this. My question is this...Why wait to reinstall the valve core after releasing the refrigerant? I have experimented with mine doing a couple of "dry" runs before releasing refrigerant. I do seem to lose some vacuum, it looks to go up to about 3k microns. I guess it just seems like it is lower risk than after you release the refrigerant if you have issues with replacing the valve core? I guess if the system requires 500 microns or below before releasing the refrigerant, then that would explain that. I am installing a Mitsubishi, and the instructions do state to release the refrigerant after holding 500 microns or below for an hour. Mine has held 400 or so for 24 hours. Thanks again.
Hi Steve! In the second video of where I am comparing a micron gauge with a vacuum gauge, I explained the reason that you're describing along with a lot of other questions that I've received. It's always better to install the valve core while the unit is under refrigerant pressure. It's to ensure that you don't break the vacuum. It's always better to lose a very small amount of refrigerant than having air pressure come back into the system while it's under a vacuum. Good luck on your installation!
@@stuzman52 Thank you! I completed the install last night. All went well, I followed the procedure of installing the valve core after releasing refrigerant. No issues. I pressure tested and held a vacuum around 350 microns for 24 hours just to be confident I had it right before releasing. I installed one a few years ago, but definitely didn't pay this much attention to detail. I have the tools now, and with knowledge and confidence, the next one should be much easier. Thank you again Sir....
Sounds like you did a great job Steve and I commend you for taking the little extra time to ensure a successful installation. You're quite welcome and glad to get the information out there for the folks who want to do a job that's right! Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi again! Installing two more over next couple of weeks. I have a question...I am probably overly concerned about not having a truly sealed system. I had an issue on an install I did some time ago. Anyway...I ran a pressure test with nitrogen at 150psi and got a good hold. I then ran a couple of vacuums with a nitrogen purge in between. Now I am running the final vacuum and got it down to 240 microns I believe. It's been several hours, and it has crept up to 340 microns. I would think that if it was a truly "sealed" system...it wouldn't rise at all? How long should I let it sit to make sure I have a very well sealed system? Thank you....
The pressure rise that you see is normal. You have to keep in mind that it's impossible to get 100% of the air out of a system. The micron gauge is measuring air pressure so if it ever read 0 microns, (which it won't), all of the air would be out. When you see the pressure rising, it's because the air molecules are expanding which raises the pressure slightly. If the temperature changes to a higher temp, you'll see this effect also. If you ever had a leak in the system, the pressure would continuously rise and never would stop. That's what you're looking for to see if there's a leak. You can give the system one hour to check for this pressure rise. At some point, it will level off. When you don't see any climb anymore and it's under 500 microns, then you're good to go.
so i could prolly just use some 1/4 ball valve on the micron cage when i dont have 2 core tools and a hose before micron cage would ruin the readings too much ?
Nicely done. What steps are different if a previously running system had to be completely evacuated, tested and refilled. In other words, how do you refill with refrigerant if completely empty including the outdoor unit?
In a nutshell, the refrigerant would have to be recovered unless it leaked out. And if there was a leak, the system would be filled with nitrogen to find the leak. After the leak was repaired, a retest with nitrogen would be required to verify that the leak is fixed. Next, a vacuum would be pulled down to at least 500 microns and finally, the refrigerant would be weighed back into the system. The weight would come from the manufacturer.
@@stuzman52 Thanks! Our mini-split A/C wouldn't hold a refrigerant charge for a season. I had to take matters in my own hands today. Making sure copper tubing joints are properly formed and fitted, pressure test with nitrogen (150 psi per mfg specs) for over 24 hrs, vacuum test to lower than EPA requirements (300 micron) and maintain it for 1-1/2 hrs. Then and only then was I assured that the system will not leak and I precisely weighed in the proper amount of refrigerant per manufacturer specs. It takes knowledge, craftsmanship, and patience. [I had to cut out and replace every flare joint made by the HVAC contractor]. Doesn't anyone take pride in their work anymore?
David Grisco Always glad to hear success stories David! As you may know, my field is electrical engineering and over the years I’ve seen all kinds of folks. It doesn’t matter if you got degrees, credentials, licenses or many years of experience. You can find poor workmanship with the above criteria. It all boils down to the individual which is what he thinks of himself and his craftsmanship in his field. Today, it’s becoming rarer to find individuals that want to excel in their field. Glad to hear that you got your unit fixed! 😀👍
@@stuzman52 Ah, electrical engineer...that education/training explains your thoroughness. Quality engineer myself; it's all about the process, measurement, and verification. I still find it mind-boggling that there are so many individuals who are just flat out incompetent. I now feel confident with a future mini-split installation in a pole barn.
Thanks great video, Also watched nitrogen test video. Excellent. Just one question. Are the procedures the same for a multizone mini split? I have 4 zones on the outside unit but only using 2 zones. Best regards.
Hi, I'm somewhat of a newbie. Love the video. I saw you draw the vacuum and seal it, but I didn't see the 410A going in. Can you help me understand when/where that happened? Thanks!
Ok, I can infer now that the system has been pumped down before this video was done. So I have two questions, if you have a minute- If it's been stored for a while, how can you know how much refrigerant is in it? And second, whe you pump it down and vacuum it, are you vacuuming just the low side? I only see people talking about leaks in the low side. Does the high side never have leaks, or are they super rare or something? Thanks!
Sure Jennifer, if you take a look at the timeline at 7:00 you'll see that I used an allen wrench to open the valves. This allows the refrigerant to go into the line-set.
I am interested to know how you routed the compressor's condensate drain to prevent a large winter ice block forming under the (and maybe in!) compressor in the winter? Good video. Doug
In a case like that, I would remove the valve core and installed it one more time and recheck for bubbles. If there were still bubbles, then I would replace the valve core with another one. :)
Thanks for sharing. Best video out there on evacuating a mini split. QUESTION: Is the core removal on the CORE REMOVAL TOOL, overkill? How much refrigerate would be lost otherwise? (I'm not against overkill. I just wonder if pros do it, or just overkill?)
It's a standard practice in the field which allows the vacuum pump to pull a deep vacuum without the restriction of the valve core and it does speed up the evacuation process. I have seen others in the field not do this in order to save time, but in my opinion, it's a better method when doing a evacuation.
You can use a one stage vacuum pump. It will just take a longer time to reach a deeper vacuum. But a micron gauge will let you know when you reach at least 500 microns.
Great video, thank you. My service rep messed up and released / vacuumed out some of the refrigerant. He was not sure how to recharge. Anything special about recharging this vs other split systems? He's familiar w/ them just not all the w/ mini splits. Thanks again...
With mini-splits, you have to recover the refrigerant and then weigh it back in. They are not like typical units where you can check the refrigerant amount by measuring the superheat or subcooling.
@@stuzman52 Perfect. Thank you so much. He will recover all the 410a then add back the 40.6 ozs per the OEM sheet. This will be a complete refill. He stated the unit needs to be running but, w/o any 410a in it at all, I was concerned about running w/o any in. 108 here w/ 95% humidity... Mama getting anxious.. ;)
@@patmac Pat, your tech should be able to get a large amount of refrigerant into the system before it's turned on. Then it could be turned on to finish up the charge.
@@stuzman52 Thanks man. Really appreciate your reply. He got in about a pound before turning on. After starting and running at lowest temp, it took the remainder. 40.6 oz total. So appreciate your help. Owe ya... PS He used this gas/atomizer thnigamajig to help speed up the liquid recharge. Never seen one but cut his install time down 75%... Cool..
@@patmac Good to hear that all went well Pat. Since the R410a is a mixture of two refrigerants, it has to go into the system with the tank upside down. Of course, you can't just let liquid refrigerant constantly go into the compressor while running or else the compressor can lock up. The atomizer turns the liquid refrigerant into a mist where it can go into the system faster. Have a great day!
Hi, thank you very, VERY much for sharing your knowledge. I'm also a DIY fanatic like Norman below, and I would like to get some HVAC tools and equipment to install 5 mini-split units that run with 410A. What suggestions do you have for a vacuum pump (say a two stage, 6 cfm), vacuum gauge, and manifold? A list of tools would be great. THANK YOU in advance.
Thank you Jarrett! Yellow Jacket or Hilmor offer professional tools in all categories of refrigeration. You can go to their websites to see what they offer and good luck with your installations.
Mr Stuzman. Any idea as to why the blue hose did not do the trick? Thinking about buying a black hose from amazon, along with the other tools you have shown. Do you think a black hose might be worth it? Thanks James, and also for the outstanding video.
Yes, after the video was shot, I investigated the hose and it was fine. The fitting that I had on the vacuum pump where the hose secured to was the wrong type. A simple change of the fitting took care of the issue. Not sure of what black hose you're referring to, but if you're looking for a vacuum rated hose, then it should be fine. And thanks for liking the video!
@@stuzman52 The blue hose you used made by Appion also makes a lower price red and higher price black hose, But if the fitting is the problem I'll probably go with the blue. Let me tell you this, I don"t know what UA-cam's policy is, but if you start a support site. although I don't have much, I'll be glad to contribute because you're worth it.
Sir, can you please give me the Brand names and part numbers of the valve core tools and the connectors that you used to attach to the service valve and also did you remove the schrader valves from the yellow line when you were pulling down the vacuum in the third video . Extremely well done videos , thanks.
Sorry Douglas Knutsen as UA-cam did not contact me. It's getting a little late Douglas, but if you send me a private message with your email address, I'll look up the parts and answer your questions tomorrow. And thank you very much!
One quick question. When you put the valve core back into the service port, Wouldent there be a small air pocket in the valve core removal tool that gets into the system??
To install the valve core under vacuum with minimum contamination, I'd say put the gauge on side port 2 and the vacuum hose on extremity 2 instead of 1, and keep pulling while you open 1 and install the core. Better to install it without vacuum. Crack the gas service valve until the gauge reads ATM, close the valve, remove the gauge and install the core.
Hello Stuzman for the video explanation. Could you please tell me why we do not conduct Nitrogen pressure testing on a mini-split system as we do in case of regular HVAC systems at the time of installation? I recently purchased a Mitsubishi MUZ-GE24NA and its installation manual requires to perform only the vacuum procedure and nothing is mentioned on the pressure test. Thanks
Yes, Abhinav, the manuals for mini-split units are written towards people, (DIYers) who do an installation themselves. The manufacturer realizes that most DIYers will not have a supply of nitrogen, pressure regulator, etc. for the test. So, they will mention to pull a vacuum on the system and if you see the pressure rise, then you have a leak. The issue is that under a vacuum, you can have a very small leak and will never know it. Once I had a system under a vacuum for 24 hours and never saw the gauge pressure rise. After about one month when the cooling was insufficient, I found a leak. So, to be sure there isn't a leak, the valid test is to pressurize the system with a high pressure of nitrogen. Also, the reason that you see nitrogen pressure testing on standard HVAC units is because most of these units are installed by professional a/c service techs who will have that test equipment. Great question and thanks for the comment!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for your prompt response. Listening to you and another great channel called "AC Service Tech LLC", I finally understood why Testing for leaks under high pressure and under high vacuum are testing different design aspects of the system. Furthermore, your video where you have explained the difference between a Vacuum Gauge and a Micron Meter was amazing which clarified a lot of things, that's why the question. :)
Because I will be installingt but three or four mini-splits in my lifetime, could I use a simple analog vacuum gauge and shoot for 30 inches of vacuum for a r410a system? I love this concept overall and need to approach it more economically. Thanks!
You can use an analog gauge, but you'll never know how deep a vacuum the system is being pulled. An analog gauge will tell you that you're producing a vacuum, but won't tell you how much. A micron gauge will tell you how much vacuum is being produced. Since you want to save money, let the vacuum pump run for about an hour. That should give you a pretty good vacuum if you don't have any leaks.
Did you see how your microns went up to the 6ks by the time you finished? That means you have a leak somewhere. If you go down to 250-500 microns, once you stop the vacuum the microns should not go above 1000, if it increases like it did on your video then it means you have a leak, moat likely a flare connection is loose.
The reason I used a second valve core removal tool was to protect the micron gauge from the high pressure from the system when the refrigerant was allowed into the system. I'm not sure of what the maximum pressure of the micron gauge I was using so I was just playing it safe. Also Ben, I'm working on a video which compares the micron gauge against a vacuum gauge which you may find useful when it's released.
I created two other videos to address quite a few questions from the three other videos. The first part talks about pressures, microns and vacuums which is more of an educational video. The link to this video is here: ua-cam.com/video/SsUYJ1b9sk8/v-deo.html The second video compares a vacuum gauge against a micron gauge and I answered the most asked questions in this video. It's located here: ua-cam.com/video/N-QwtqSw1Xk/v-deo.html Have a great day David!
The Daikin unit I am putting in my shop per the manual says a minimum of 10 ft of line set. I am going to be pushing that-it may only be 9 ft as inside unit is close to condenser. What is the reason for the minimum? Is it because of the factory precharge? Thanks and enjoyed your videos.
Yes Ted, you are correct! The manufacturer wants a minimum length based on the precharge that's in the outdoor unit. The same holds true for a maximum length of line-set too. Glad to hear that you liked the videos.
Nice set of videos... I am assuming that for a typical instillation of a mini split the condenser is precharged with enough refrigerant, is there a run length that would require larger tubing OR an increase in refrigerant charge? also, when checking that system at any future date, there appears to be no high side port, how is that done?
That is correct that this unit along with other manufacturers comes precharged with the correct amount of refrigerant stored in the condenser. The unit is charged for a maximum line-set length of 25'. You can go as short as 10' in the line-set length without any issues. If you go shorter or longer than indicated, then you'll have to evacuate the refrigerant and adjust the amount according to the installation manual. For example, 0.16 oz/ft if the length exceeds 25'. As for the size of the tubing, that is shipped with the unit and it's size is based on the BTU rating of the unit. And as for their being no high side, if there is a suspicion that the low side is reading too low indicating maybe a low charge, then the system must be evacuated and recharged by weight, same as on an automobile.
I have a pre-charged line set that has been vacuumed and filled with R-410a refrigerant from the factory, but I need to shorten its length. Since the lines are factory pre-charged, is there anything special I need to do aside from vacuuming the lines and checking the microns before releasing the R-410a refrigerant from the condenser?
If you can recover the refrigerant from the lines, everything will be as you mentioned except maybe doing a pressure test of the line set before evacuating.
You can't connect the micron gauge to the high side as there is no port to connect anything to. If you were working on a unit where there are two ports, the difference in pressure would be negligible. You always want to connect the micron gauge as close as possible to the unit which will be the furthest away from the vacuum pump.
I've never done it that way. I dont mess with those core removers. I use my gauges with a micron gauge. Then rather then the micron gauge to vacuum leak test I use nitrogen and bubbles on all the connections. Could even do a pressure test with digital gauges.
hello sir i am from Indonesia. i would like to ask you about vacuum procedure. what about if on ac system no more gas or refrigerant. when we do vacuum should we open service valve fully open and high pressure valve also fully open as well? my unit was no more refrigerant at all. so if you don't mind answer my question. 🙏
Rachel, it sounds like you have lost all of your refrigerant most likely from a leak in the system. You would have to pressurize the system with nitrogen and then find the leak. Repair the leak and then repressurize to verify that the repair is done correctly. Afterwards, you would have to weigh the refrigerant back into the system if it's a mini-split unit.
There isn't a vacuum mode whether it's a new install or an installation that's already been installed. In your case where the system has been installed, the refrigerant is already in the lines. The recommended procedure is to recover the refrigerant with a machine that will pump it into a tank. Once the refrigerant has been removed from the system, then a vacuum pump can be installed on the system to remove the air. And after the system has been pulled into a vacuum, the refrigerant is weighed back into the system. Have a great day!
Thanks for the quick response! I wasn’t sure if these systems had internal electronic metering valves. I can’t find anything in the manual i downloaded.
I've never done one with multiple zones, but each zone should have a separate valve. I would suspect that you would pressure test and vacuum each zone separately.
That would be a valve core removal tool. The port on mini-splits are 5/16" so a valve core removal tool for that one would be used. Here is a listing for it www.amazon.com/Appion-MGAVCR-Vacuum-Rated-Removal/dp/B008HQ2EZ8/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=appleton+valve+core+removal+tool&qid=1638742856&sr=8-19
Having pressure on the valve core would ensure there wouldn't be any chance of the atmosphere coming back into the system. It's a standard practice to install the valve core while under pressure.
No one else put a vacuum on this thing, so nice to see someone do it right... But honestly, why remove the valve core in the first place? I can't imagine it saves that much time when vacuuming.
I follow this fella to the "T" and it is definitely worthwhile. He is exceptionally knowledgeable so much so I went as far as purchasing (or replacing inferior equipment I have had) every piece of equipment he shows in this video. Yes, it cost quite a bit for a residential DIY fanatic (me) but I like to have the right tools. Couple that with his definitive explanation and now I have a well-running Dual mini-split system and a happy wife.
He has been incredibly generous with his time and is very patient in his explanations, and no I am not related to him. I have found that it is not necessary to jump around to different UA-cam HVAC presentations as you will not find any better than Mr. Stuzman.
Thank you very much Norman and the most important info that I picked up in this comment is that the wife is happy! And when you can do that, you're making lots of progress in life :)) Have a great day Norman and glad to hear that your unit is working well!
Thank you! I've spent many hours trying to learn best practices for muni split install and line set bending/flaring etc and your videos are hands down the most informative. Somehow you manage to cover everything. Great job.
Thank you very much Douglass and good luck on your install! Have a great day!
Mr Stuzman. I can't thank you enough for your mini split videos. I have watched all four and after watching I decided to install a 18Kbtu mini split heat pump myself in my garage workshop. I followed all your processes from bending and flaring the line set, torquing the flare nuts and pressure testing with nitrogen. I was able to vacuum my system down to a stable 198 microns. Using the two core removal tools proved to be good advice. The system is working great. Thank you for your expertise in showing your install process. I appreciated it very much. Thank your wife for the excellent camera work too.
It's really great Carl to hear that you did a great job with the installation of your mini-split. I'll tell the wife about her filming and wish the best for you and your family! Have a great day!
*It’s: Pretty. Quiet. **Fastly.Cool** in my room. Works wellLittle of hassle to install was TOTALLY worth it. I’m loving it so far. I recommend watching the installation video and taking it slow~*
Yep, pretty good system and thanks for the comment! Have a great day!
I've installed 3 mini splits by myself (I got EPA's HVAC license priort to). Your instruction was the best out there.
Thank you for the clear & concise instructions that helped me save hundreds of $$$ and do the job right.
Thank you very much for watching the video and for leaving a comment! I'm glad to hear that you are have successful installations. Keep up the good work!
Man, you're a genius. First helped a few years ago to repair Jetta VR6 Secondary Air Injection (reused that part after soaking it... still working years later).. and the door latch repair.... and now Mini-Splits.
You're the man!
Thank you very much Dottor and glad that you found the videos helpful!
Really? Genius? That makes me a Genius too!!
I viewed the entire playlist; Mini-Split Heat Pump Install, Pressure Test and Vacuum. I wanted to thank you for the very professional, educational, and enjoyable series of videos. The subject matter, camera work, and detailed information included in the videos is first rate. I can tell that you are passionate about the projects that you tackle and way you present the information makes it easy to follow and understand. I’m currently installing a mini-split in my garage. Your videos convinced me of the importance of pressure testing with nitrogen and using a micron gauge instead of relying on the compound gauge to determine when a sufficient vacuum level had been reached. I spent more money on tools than I had planned, but It’s like they say: “The cheap comes out expensive”. Better to do it right the first time than to have to do it over. Thank again and keep up the good work!!
Thank you Edward for the comment and glad to hear that you found the videos informative. Just trying to get information out there for viewers like yourself who wants to install their own unit. It sounds like you're way ahead of the game to do the job right. Good luck on your install.
That's a whole new discipline (home air conditioning) and a whole new set of tools and skills to master. Your pretty talented Terry.
wyattoneable It’s not bad at all Wyatt, and I know that you could do the same thing with no problems. I just picked things up over the years; nothing special. 😀👍
I follow several HVAC channels as I am fanatic when it comes to technical DYI information. I must say you are by far The best of the best when it comes to doing everything by the book and technically correct. My hats off to you for a museum quality installation and excellent quality video and narration.
Thank you very much T C! I appreciate it!
Humm! This is the first video I've watched. You did a fantastic job, but Craig over at A/C svc may have you beat. Lol.
Seriously though, I just subscribed and I'm looking forward to watching more of your content.
Great video. I was able to piece this process together a few years back when I installed one at my house, but this video perfectly explains the procedure all in one concise video.
Scott Merrick Thank you Scott and glad you liked the video!
Excellent tutorial! I’m preparing for a dual zone mini-split installation. Your tutorial has confirmed my decision go acquire a micro gage to perform the mini-split vacuum.
Good luck Carlos with your installation!
I do have a couple of follow up questions. 1) I have purchased a dual zone Gree heat pump. After reviewing installation guides and on line tutorials I have concluded that given that the install will have line sets less than 25 feet, adding refrigerant will not be required.....is this correct? 2). This installation will be a swap out of an older existing mini-split. I am assuming that there will be special processes in handling the refrigerant lines and disposal of the heat pump. Is this correct?
I am planning on installing a mini split for my 2nd story and wanted to know about making line sets. I stumbled across your video, and in the beginning thought you were too detailed. But after watching the entire series, i understand why. You Sir, are a dedicated individual. UA-cam could use more individuals like you that are more geared towards making sure your viewers understand the process and not trying to make Discovery Channel entertainment.
Thank you fatnate1000 and I always believe that if one wants to do a job, I'll try to make it detailed so that an individual can see the steps involved. Yes, if I was to make a three minute, what would be the point of making the video if you don't know how to do the job. Thanks again for watching the series as I appreciate it!
Ok, I feel like an idiot. But it's my first mini split install. I pressure tested and evacuated my first lineset, then released the refrigerant into that lineset. I thought, Oh boy let's try it out. Head unit blows hot air, condenser fan is running , but no cooling going on. Ok, I figure I must need to hook up the other linesets to lower refrigerant pressure. I'm rewatching Stuzman doing his release of refrigerant and then I see him open another valve on the pressure side of compressor. I think, wow, I didn't open the valve on high side. I open it, then turn system on and to my amazement, the head unit starts blowing cool air!!
What a Newb I am!!
I'm glad I rewatched his video. He saved my day. Now to hook up the other two head units to the compressor. I'm really jazzed!!! Thank you Mr Stuzman!
Good for you Bobby and don't knock yourself! Hell, me and countless others have done things that we would never admit 😊 Have a great evening!
Your timing couldn't be better.I'm a homeowner installing a 3 head unit. Got an est. of 15K. Thanks to your videos you saved me about 5K inc. tool purchases!
Bill Broadway Glad to help out Bill!
I don't know if you still monitor this video, Mr Stuzman, but I want you to know that it's very nice to view a thoughtful/helpful (and extremely practical) video made by a fellow southerner. I really wish there were many many more like it. A whole lot less BS and a whole lot more down to earth information is what folks struggling to make ends meet actually need to keep from being taken advantage of by those who would prey on people in need. Our 12-year old Mitsubishi mini split went down after a nearby lightning strike, so we've been without AC for most of the summer. Considering that the insurance company offered us just over $300 to have repair work performed - and the local HVAC thieves wanted as much as $10K to replace our (single zone) mini split system - we decided to buy our own system and give it a go: we didn't have much choice. The point being that your video has gone an awful long way toward giving us the confidence to test out our own new system before possibly wasting the expensive refrigerant that came with our 24K BTU condenser unit! Thank you, sir, I have both liked and subscribed to your channel.
10K to install a single stage unit is pretty high. Good for you to install the system yourself and save some money. Since your last unit was taken out by a lightning strike, you may want to consider installing a suppression unit on the voltage input side of the system. Good luck with your install. Thanks for watching and sharing a comment. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for the reply, Terry. I'd like to ask you a question, sir. Why is your BluVac micron gauge mounted the way that it is? Is that a special adapter you're using to get more clearance for the gauge?
@@OldSchoolLFCGeezer The bent tubing that you see attached to the micron gauge comes with the micron gauge. If you're referring to the valve underneath it, that was installed to keep refrigerant oil from contaminating the sensor located in the micron gauge. Otherwise, when the refrigerant oil gets on the sensor, it would have to be cleaned. Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi Terry ~ Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. By the way, I wanted to ask for your thoughts on my vacuum procedure. Late Thursday night, after completing a successful nitrogen pressure test, I set everything up exactly as you did in this video. The only things different in my setup were the absence of the bent 45-degree tubing I already asked about and the fact that I used a CPS VG200 micron gauge. It took roughly 10 minutes to get the vacuum in the setup down to 180 microns. About 20 minutes later, however, the vacuum had changed to 340 microns. As this reading was below the 500 micron limit, I went ahead and released the refrigerant stored in our new outdoor condenser unit. So far, the system seems to be working well, but I still wanted to ask you if the 160 micron reduction in vacuum that I observed (over 20 minutes) was a cause for concern?
@@OldSchoolLFCGeezer No, there is no need for concern on 160 micron level. It's normal for the system to pull to a lower level while the vacuum pump is running. And then when you close the valve and turn off the vacuum pump, the micron level will rise. The key is that it doesn't continue rising after a few minutes which signifies a leak. Another video that you may find interesting about a rising vacuum level is this video. ua-cam.com/video/cI6pSBaskjc/v-deo.html Have a great weekend!
I live in upstate SC. I sure wish you were close by! I'd hire you to install mine! Your workmanship and work ethic is top shelf! God Bless!
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful! Be sure to have a super great day!
Impressive, you are a detail oriented master craftsman with a great ability to clearly explain details. Fantastic set of videos. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much Douglas for the kind words!
These videos were very informative and well put together. Valuable resource for anyone installing one of these!
Thank you Mike for the kind words!
Dude... that was an excellent how to... Very well done! THANK YOU!
Thank you very much TG and have a great day!
Thanks again Stutzman.
Here's what I did to vacuum my last mini install.
I nitrogen tested my system, - tested good. I then slowly released the nitrogen until my gauge read low.
I immediately put the valve removal tool on the mini port and the micron gauge directly on the valve removal tool.(mini core was already out). I vacuumed the system down to ~110 microns and shut the core tool valve off and let it sit for ten minutes - still held 110 microns. I then put the valve in and let a little refrigerant into the lines to build pressure, when everything was good I let all the refrigerant in tested for valve leaks and then removed the valve removal tool.
My thinking is that the fewer connections the better, my system vacuumed to ~110 microns.
Sounds like you did a great job! Yes, you want the fewest connections when you're pressure testing or pulling a vacuum. Keep up the good work and have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Thanks.
I think one thing I would change is that instead of replacing the valve at max vacuum I'd bring up the pressure slightly so that the it's just slightly positive 410A side so it's pretty much in balance.
I did check the Appion valve tool and with vacuum it's showing ~18 microns with the valve opened. By the way the CPS Vg-200 meter is good for 450 psi with a burst of 3k psi, so even if it was full pressure from the mini it still wouldn't have a problem although I don't like to test that.
As always you've been great help and I very much appreciate your videos and input.
@@mosfet500 Thanks for your comment and sharing your experiences with your mini-split. Have a great day!
Nice! Exactly how I installed mine.... tools too but I snagged a cheap US made vacuum pump 😉. You did your homework and to anyone watching this is how it’s done
Thank you Chris and not many people willing to take the extra steps as you did to do it right!
Yeah I got a robinair on eBay for $75 guy only used it a couple times tired of renting them!
Great video ! This is the only way to perform the vacuum procedure. After valving off the core removal tool, I’ve never before seen the micron gauge continue to decrease. I’ve always had it increase slightly as the vacuum equalises throughout the lineset
Thanks Glen for the comment and have a great day!
Great detailed series of videos! I am now ready to tackle this, just need wife's approval to buy more tools. Thank you!
Thanks JG! I'm sure the wife will understand! Have a great day!
I have never installed an AC unit and been reading up on them. I am not an installer and have considered doing my own as the cost locally are really high >$30k for 2k home. I am an engineer so technical but there are so many things one does not know that they don't even know they don't know. The video was very detailed and you really like to be precise and that was great to see. I may just take the task on for at least my home office. I hope I have the patience to do it right like you did. I wish you were nearby and I would be your customer.
Thank you Barry for the comments! As you are an engineer, you know that any project is all about the details. I'm quite sure that if you were to install your own unit, you would research those details that you weren't sure about, and you would have an installation that you would be happy with. Thanks again Barry and have a great weekend coming up!
I just wanted to thank you for the great instructional videos. I completed my first mini split install (Mitsubishi) , following your detailed steps. These are appreciated!
Glad to help William and thanks for watching!
one of the few diy vids that actually does it right. Gotta love the guys using dial gauges in other vids and saying they work good enough, yeah they work good enough to get the job done and get out of there before the compressor blows. Really tho anyone not using a micron meter might get lucky but it's just that, luck, cause you really don't know..
You are correct Neal! Without a micron gauge, you never know how much vacuum is pulled on a system.
I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump or micron gauge. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor and regular gauges.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential.
Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
@@Northeaster-b3w I wouldn't let you install a heat pump in a dog house. Yes your setup may let you know if there's major leaks, BUT that's all. Most heat pump manufacturers call for 500 microns or less, (which you can't even read with a dial guage) and there's a reason for that. There could be moisture in the system for example and you would never know it without the micron guage. When your cousin tony's compressor dies after 2 years you'll be like, man we won't be getting that brand again! When in reality it's actually your fault because you were just rolling dice hoping for the best. I installed ny first pump with dial guages 4 or 5 years ago and it's still going strong, but I realized later that I got lucky, simple as that..
@@neallyons9515 I do appreciate you saying that you have previously installed them with dial gauges and have since learned better. Learning is the reason I re-searched youtube, after not having installed any in about 3 years now. The 7 that I have installed have all been running between 3 and 7 years, but as I have 2 more to do soon, I wanted to see if any better videos existed than what was out there several years ago. I am glad I did.
I am considering buying the CPS digital/micron gauge but will likely not put in many more after these two. As mentioned, I have only done this for family members for free.. they know our setup is crude and I will talk to them about the option of chipping in a bit to cover the costs of the gauges if they want to ensure success or if they prefer to do as we have before.
I agree that I do not know how complete of a vacuum I have achieved, when using the dial gauges. But, the compressor is strong enough to pull the dial gauges down quickly and then I leave it running for a good length of time after that, knowing that it is continuing to pull finer amounts out the longer it is left on.
re: possible moisture left in there, I doubt that would be the case, as I have purged the lines (and indoor coil) with nitrogen (cracking the opposite line fitting and letting all of the air out followed by a couple of minutes of nitrogen before tightening the fitting and pressure testing.) Then this is all vacuumed out, without letting air back in.... I release enough of the nitrogen to be at a few psi and then I turn the compressor on, and slowly open the valve. So, i could have some small amounts of nitrogen in there (knowing this is not ideal either..) but there is no chance of moisture being in there.
If I do decide to buy a micron gauge, It looks like it's best to then buy 2 core removal tools and the reviews on cheaper ones are not great... the ones linked in this video have great reviews but at about $53 USD or $90 Cdn for me, two of these plus the CPS micron gauge( least expensive one i have seen with good reviews) adds another $220 Cdn so all totalled it would be pushing $500 Cdn for this added ability. If i have 5 more to do, it would be an easier choice. Still I would then be increasing chances of success and would have them for the future, if any of the others need work/ recharging, etc.
Great work Terry. Having nice cool air in the workshop would be a wonderful thing. Enjoy
Badgertronix Thanks Jonathan and should be more comfortable for sure. 😀
Thanks to your UA-cam channel I just put mine in today , Not all in one day it took me a while , its done Thanks
Good for you Derek! Glad to hear that the videos helped you out!
great job! i have to laugh at other "installers" that don't even own a micron gauge, and they're trying to teach others. Thanks so much
Thanks Neal for leaving a comment!
Or they don't even own a vacuum pump, heaps of countries just "purge" no vac
@@Froggability I think this video and use of correct equipment are top notch. That said, as a DIY guy, and not thinking I would install more than 1 or 2 units, for myself, i chose not to buy a fancy vacuum pump. Instead I unscrewed the intake valve on my air compressor and screwed in a couple of fittings to connect to a cheap set of gauges. I do purge with nitrogen and bubble test and then vacuum down to almost neg 30 " HG with my old compressor.. I don't let all of the nitrogen out before vacuuming- i vacuum it out so no air and moisture can enter. Having now installed 7 in the last few years, and with 2 more to put in soon (all for family for free) I could now have justified the real vacuum pump and micron gauge, but I have gotten by fine with only the manifold gauges. A micron gauge would be sweet to have, but if you clearly have no leaks in the bubble / pressure test and then you vacuum it all out, you will be fine with only rudimentary gauges. The expensive tools are great if you want to do a bunch, but not essential.
Great video Mr. Stuzman. Many DIYers will benefit and step up to do this now.. I even had two units need recharging (one developed a pinhole leak in the factory brazing around the reversing valve after 3 years and one had a faulty expansion valve). I was able to buy a bottle of R410 at a decent price on-line and ship from USA to Canada no issue. Brazed in new parts each time, pressure/bumble test, vacuum and weighed out refrigerant charge on a good (borrowed) set of scales as i charged unit... that was several years ago and still going strong. Its not rocket science- watch good videos like this one, but basic tools and save some cash!
Great video. It would be a good idea to exercise the valves of these 2 Core Removal Tools during the vacuum process. There are some air sealed inside these valves.
Yes, that is a good point Fentago. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks Stuzman, I really enjoy your presentation - big help!
Glad to hear that you found the video helpful! Have a great day!
Thank you for taking the time to make this and sharing . Very informative!
steve bates And thank you Steve for taking the time to watch the video! 😀
Excellent Instructor !!!!! Helped me do my AC install. Great Video. THANKS
You're quite welcome Bob!
Best mini split videos on you tube. Thank you so much for posting them. They were a great help!
Thank you very much Patrick and glad to hear that the videos were helpful!
Hi Stuzman....I hope all is well. It's been 3 years since you helped direct me on some questions that I had on installing a mini split at my previous home. I have since moved to Colorado...and am installing 4 more Bosch mini splits. I made a stupid mistake the other day when trying to commission the first one...
I vacuumed it down to 150 microns...and it held 170 for about an hour. I normally always break the vacuum with nitrogen, check for pressure leaks, and vacuum down again. Well...I ran out of Nitrogen so...I just followed the normal procedure. Unfortunately...I didn't check all the connections immediately after releasing the refrigerant. The line set connection to the indoor unit on the low pressure side blew out refrigerant. I didn't realize it until I started troubleshooting the next day when it stopped blowing warm air. The indoor unit is supposed to display a code for low refrigerant...but it did not. I put my pressure gauge on the service valve...and it was minimal if at all while running the AC. My plan was to recapture what refrigerant was remaining in the compressor...but since there was no pressure to speak of...all I could think to do was to close the ports to hopefully protect the compressor from air in system? I am getting my nitrogen refilled to hopefully not repeat same mistake.
I don't mind buying refrigerant and scale and trying to correct my mistake. Curious as to your thoughts if I should have a service call to retest and refill...or make the investment? Thank you...
Hi Steve! Since you probably won't make this mistake again, you probably wouldn't use the scales again and it may be an issue to buy R410a if that's what your system is using if you don't have a certification license. Maybe the service call would be the best. Have a great day Steve!
Nice video Terry and now you have a nice cool garage that'll make it more enjoyable to work in ...nice & cool in summer & warm in winter!
Hayward's Automotive Thanks Bob and should be much more comfortable now. 😀
Great technique, sanitary install, knows how to use wrenches, like the attention to details like nylog on caps.
Thank you Russell for the comment and be sure to have a great day!
Great video, I really like how Americans do things, Here in Australia we do everything half assed.
Thank you Ryan and trust me, we have our share of half-asses over here too 😊Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 haha, yeah I bet.
Great video thanks! I followed your instructions step by step and had a perfect install.
Thank you very much Maurice and I appreciate the comment. I apologize for the delay as UA-cam did not notify me as it should have.
This guy has done this before A professional nice job
One or twice before Gary... :)
best explanation , tools and procedure . i will follow your videos , thank you
Thank you Frank and best wishes on your install!
Best video on the this subject i have seen.
Well I have been thinking of installing a mini split and your video has shown me that with afew more tools it can be done.
It's not a bad job at all. As you said, just a few tools, take your time and you should have a great installation.
Is that the pioneer stand? I am about to order my unit and tools..Thanks for the videos you do it right with no missed steps...Its worth it to me to spend the extra money on the tools and learn.. Its still way cheaper than hiring a guy who may or may not do it right.
Hi Dave! The stand was ordered from Amazon and is located here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I made some modifications to the stand where one was to shorten the legs. Yes, it helps to have the correct tools to do the job and you are correct that it's not a guarantee that a professional will do the job correctly. For the same size unit as mine, my neighbor says that a contractor wants $5000 to install it. That's a pretty hefty price. Have a great day and good luck on your install.
One more question if you please...
I purchased a Senville 18K BTU Heat Pump
H.S. pressure is 550 psig; L.S. pressure is 340 psig.
When you performed a leak test, the lines were pressurized to 200 psig. Was that for a reason? I see others going up to 300 psig.
Thanks! JT
No particular reason on the 200psig. Even at this pressure, you'll still be able to see a leak. In your case, I wouldn't push the pressure near the maximum of your lowest test pressure that was used at the factory. In your case, I would go for about 250psig and you'll be fine. At 300psig, you'll be getting pretty close to 340psig. At 250psig, you'll be allowing yourself a little margin of safety. Good luck on your installation!
Loving what your doing I actually run the same setup . However knock the second t off BluVac is pressure rated and refrigerant doesn’t effect the gauge at all just clean out with alcohol if any issues . The extra removal tool is just extra connections for leaks .
Yes, Matthew, you can use the setup as you're referring to.
The perfect vacuum I ever seen. Thanks for sharing sir.
Sorry alb for the delay as UA-cam did not notify me. Thank you very much for your comment!
The best mini split video on UA-cam!! Where are you located? Are you available for hire? Thanks Rich
Thank you very much Richie! I just work on my own stuff and now retired.
The only thing I may add is I would put the service valve cap on loose to check for leaks out of Schraeder port. Seems easier to check for leaks when I can maybe just see a few bubbles.
Great video, I am watching it again and again, and the more I understand the procedure the more questions I get :) 1. In the video about nitrogen test you used yellow jacket. Am I right we can just use the same micron gauge for the nitrogen pressure test? 2. I watched another video about triple evacuation - so one difference I found important: they first create a vacuum, and then introduce nitrogen, while you just introduce nitrogen into unpressurized lines. I would guess vacuum-then-nitrogen is cleaner. Any comments, please? Thanks again
In regards to your question #1, no, the micron gauge should not be used to measure the pressure of nitrogen in the system as the micron gauge is designed to measure vacuum. And you'll find that it can't measure pressure above atmospheric pressure. On mine it won't register any pressure until it gets to below 20,000 microns which is about 0.38psig. As for triple evacuation where one begins the evacuation with nitrogen is not really needed as it takes hours to assume that the nitrogen will absorb the moisture. Or that it really doesn't absorb the moisture but displaces it. The vacuum pump will lower the pressure, boil the water vapor at a lower temperature and then the pump will evacuate the water vapor. Here is an article where this is discussed it and in my opinion, triple evacuation is not really needed. hvacrschool.com/triple-evacuation-and-nitrogen-facts/
Looks like a beautiful installation..
Thank you for the comment! Unit still works great today. Have a great day!
Excellent step by step video! Thanks a lot sir!
You are quite welcome Mathieu and thanks for leaving a comment!
Great. I never saw you check the pressure on the high or low side after refilling the system however. I would think that you would do that when you first turned the system on for at least a few minutes. If you had lost some refridgerant, your low-side pressure would be too low, wouldn't it?
It's not necessary as the amount of refrigerant in taking off a line is minimal which is not going to effect the low side pressure to the point where the unit will not work.
Mr....... you are very neat and you do an excellent job extremely neat thank you ,keep them coming
Thank you very much Ali!
Perfect Work! Greatings from Brazil
Willian Portela Thank you very much!
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
Thanks Emily for the comment and have a great day!
Enjoyed the video. If the unit was empty would weigh the refrigerant in using the liquid line port off the compressor or would you add it on the suction line port where the line set attaches. Trying not to flood the compressor. Thank you
You'll only have one port to add the refrigerant. I would just put the refrigerant in as a liquid without the unit running. It's the same procedure when charging a vehicle. It's charged with a liquid without the engine running. As the liquid goes into the system, it will flash into a gaseous state. And since the unit is not running, you don't have to worry about flooding the compressor.
I'm certain I'm not the only 60 year old that has a difficult time reading blue letters😂. The video is excellent as always 👍👍👍
Thanks Tom!
Would you recommend, or see a problem with applying, a small amount of NYLOG BLUE to the Schrader Valve? Thanks!
No problem at all at applying a very small amount of Nylog blue to the seal on the schrader valve. Also, you could apply a small amount of Nylog to the cone of the flaring tool as a lubricant when making your flares. And you could apply a small amount around the flare fitting. And be sure to torque the flares and not use an adjustable wrench to be sure that they're not over tightened.
@@stuzman52 Did a pressure test this morning (250 psi for 3 hours; rock solid! Pulled vacuum down to 64 microns in about 25 minutes (new pump and oil). Will see what the vacuum level is tomorrow. Maybe even do a test run! Thanks for the videos!
All sounds good! Good luck on your installation!
@@stuzman52 Up and running! I have a brand new Appion MegaFlow suction hose (p/n MH380006EAB) 5/16" one end / 1/4" other end. I will never use it since the pump I got has just 1/4" fittings. If you could use it, it's yours - no charge. Look at as a token of my appreciation for the excellent mini-split videos you posted! Let me know...
Love these videos of yours! Quick question about the mounting system that you have attached the condenser to; could you provide a source url etc., for the frame & is that a regular paving stone you have it anchored to?
Glad to hear Tim that you're enjoying the videos. As for the outdoor unit stand, it was ordered from Amazon where the link is here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192298O0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I shortened the legs a little, replaced all the fasteners with stainless steel and repainted the assembly. As for the pad, I poured a concrete slab for it. Have a great day Tim!
Thanks for the video, one question, can I put the valve core back in before release the refrigerant?
Not the best idea as you will allow the atmospheric pressure back into the system. Always best to install the valve core while system is pressurized.
Hi...thank you for your videos. I definitely learned a bunch and you have helped instill some confidence in doing this.
My question is this...Why wait to reinstall the valve core after releasing the refrigerant? I have experimented with mine doing a couple of "dry" runs before releasing refrigerant. I do seem to lose some vacuum, it looks to go up to about 3k microns. I guess it just seems like it is lower risk than after you release the refrigerant if you have issues with replacing the valve core? I guess if the system requires 500 microns or below before releasing the refrigerant, then that would explain that. I am installing a Mitsubishi, and the instructions do state to release the refrigerant after holding 500 microns or below for an hour. Mine has held 400 or so for 24 hours.
Thanks again.
Hi Steve! In the second video of where I am comparing a micron gauge with a vacuum gauge, I explained the reason that you're describing along with a lot of other questions that I've received. It's always better to install the valve core while the unit is under refrigerant pressure. It's to ensure that you don't break the vacuum. It's always better to lose a very small amount of refrigerant than having air pressure come back into the system while it's under a vacuum. Good luck on your installation!
@@stuzman52 Thank you! I completed the install last night. All went well, I followed the procedure of installing the valve core after releasing refrigerant. No issues. I pressure tested and held a vacuum around 350 microns for 24 hours just to be confident I had it right before releasing. I installed one a few years ago, but definitely didn't pay this much attention to detail. I have the tools now, and with knowledge and confidence, the next one should be much easier.
Thank you again Sir....
Sounds like you did a great job Steve and I commend you for taking the little extra time to ensure a successful installation. You're quite welcome and glad to get the information out there for the folks who want to do a job that's right! Have a great day!
@@stuzman52 Hi again! Installing two more over next couple of weeks. I have a question...I am probably overly concerned about not having a truly sealed system. I had an issue on an install I did some time ago. Anyway...I ran a pressure test with nitrogen at 150psi and got a good hold. I then ran a couple of vacuums with a nitrogen purge in between. Now I am running the final vacuum and got it down to 240 microns I believe. It's been several hours, and it has crept up to 340 microns. I would think that if it was a truly "sealed" system...it wouldn't rise at all? How long should I let it sit to make sure I have a very well sealed system?
Thank you....
The pressure rise that you see is normal. You have to keep in mind that it's impossible to get 100% of the air out of a system. The micron gauge is measuring air pressure so if it ever read 0 microns, (which it won't), all of the air would be out. When you see the pressure rising, it's because the air molecules are expanding which raises the pressure slightly. If the temperature changes to a higher temp, you'll see this effect also. If you ever had a leak in the system, the pressure would continuously rise and never would stop. That's what you're looking for to see if there's a leak. You can give the system one hour to check for this pressure rise. At some point, it will level off. When you don't see any climb anymore and it's under 500 microns, then you're good to go.
so i could prolly just use some 1/4 ball valve on the micron cage when i dont have 2 core tools and a hose before micron cage would ruin the readings too much ?
If you could rig it up, I'm sure it would work. Have a great day!
Nicely done. What steps are different if a previously running system had to be completely evacuated, tested and refilled. In other words, how do you refill with refrigerant if completely empty including the outdoor unit?
In a nutshell, the refrigerant would have to be recovered unless it leaked out. And if there was a leak, the system would be filled with nitrogen to find the leak. After the leak was repaired, a retest with nitrogen would be required to verify that the leak is fixed. Next, a vacuum would be pulled down to at least 500 microns and finally, the refrigerant would be weighed back into the system. The weight would come from the manufacturer.
@@stuzman52 Thanks! Our mini-split A/C wouldn't hold a refrigerant charge for a season. I had to take matters in my own hands today. Making sure copper tubing joints are properly formed and fitted, pressure test with nitrogen (150 psi per mfg specs) for over 24 hrs, vacuum test to lower than EPA requirements (300 micron) and maintain it for 1-1/2 hrs. Then and only then was I assured that the system will not leak and I precisely weighed in the proper amount of refrigerant per manufacturer specs. It takes knowledge, craftsmanship, and patience.
[I had to cut out and replace every flare joint made by the HVAC contractor].
Doesn't anyone take pride in their work anymore?
David Grisco Always glad to hear success stories David! As you may know, my field is electrical engineering and over the years I’ve seen all kinds of folks. It doesn’t matter if you got degrees, credentials, licenses or many years of experience. You can find poor workmanship with the above criteria. It all boils down to the individual which is what he thinks of himself and his craftsmanship in his field. Today, it’s becoming rarer to find individuals that want to excel in their field. Glad to hear that you got your unit fixed! 😀👍
@@stuzman52 Ah, electrical engineer...that education/training explains your thoroughness. Quality engineer myself; it's all about the process, measurement, and verification. I still find it mind-boggling that there are so many individuals who are just flat out incompetent. I now feel confident with a future mini-split installation in a pole barn.
David Grisco It amazes me also of why an individual doesn’t try to be the best they can. I guess it’s a different world nowadays. 😀
Clean work. Great job
Thank you Eric!
Thanks great video, Also watched nitrogen test video. Excellent.
Just one question. Are the procedures the same for a multizone mini split? I have 4 zones on the outside unit but only using 2 zones. Best regards.
Yes, Derick. You would do the same procedure for each zone that you're using.
Thank you, appreciate it. Here goes🙂
Hi, I'm somewhat of a newbie. Love the video. I saw you draw the vacuum and seal it, but I didn't see the 410A going in. Can you help me understand when/where that happened? Thanks!
Ok, I can infer now that the system has been pumped down before this video was done. So I have two questions, if you have a minute- If it's been stored for a while, how can you know how much refrigerant is in it? And second, whe you pump it down and vacuum it, are you vacuuming just the low side? I only see people talking about leaks in the low side. Does the high side never have leaks, or are they super rare or something? Thanks!
Sure Jennifer, if you take a look at the timeline at 7:00 you'll see that I used an allen wrench to open the valves. This allows the refrigerant to go into the line-set.
I am interested to know how you routed the compressor's condensate drain to prevent a large winter ice block forming under the (and maybe in!) compressor in the winter? Good video. Doug
The condensate line under the compressor was cut off at the top of the mounting bracket. It's about 12" off from the concrete pad.
you are awesome!!. you have explained it so well!
Thank you very much!
I'm curious, what steps would you have taken if you had seen bubbles coming from the valve core after you reinstalled the valve core? at 9:49
In a case like that, I would remove the valve core and installed it one more time and recheck for bubbles. If there were still bubbles, then I would replace the valve core with another one. :)
Thanks for sharing. Best video out there on evacuating a mini split. QUESTION: Is the core removal on the CORE REMOVAL TOOL, overkill? How much refrigerate would be lost otherwise? (I'm not against overkill. I just wonder if pros do it, or just overkill?)
It's a standard practice in the field which allows the vacuum pump to pull a deep vacuum without the restriction of the valve core and it does speed up the evacuation process. I have seen others in the field not do this in order to save time, but in my opinion, it's a better method when doing a evacuation.
excellent video. step by step. i have a question. can i use 1 stage pump to vacuum a mini split or do i need the 2 stage? thank you.
You can use a one stage vacuum pump. It will just take a longer time to reach a deeper vacuum. But a micron gauge will let you know when you reach at least 500 microns.
Great video, thank you. My service rep messed up and released / vacuumed out some of the refrigerant. He was not sure how to recharge. Anything special about recharging this vs other split systems? He's familiar w/ them just not all the w/ mini splits. Thanks again...
With mini-splits, you have to recover the refrigerant and then weigh it back in. They are not like typical units where you can check the refrigerant amount by measuring the superheat or subcooling.
@@stuzman52 Perfect. Thank you so much. He will recover all the 410a then add back the 40.6 ozs per the OEM sheet. This will be a complete refill. He stated the unit needs to be running but, w/o any 410a in it at all, I was concerned about running w/o any in. 108 here w/ 95% humidity... Mama getting anxious.. ;)
@@patmac Pat, your tech should be able to get a large amount of refrigerant into the system before it's turned on. Then it could be turned on to finish up the charge.
@@stuzman52 Thanks man. Really appreciate your reply. He got in about a pound before turning on. After starting and running at lowest temp, it took the remainder. 40.6 oz total. So appreciate your help. Owe ya... PS He used this gas/atomizer thnigamajig to help speed up the liquid recharge. Never seen one but cut his install time down 75%... Cool..
@@patmac Good to hear that all went well Pat. Since the R410a is a mixture of two refrigerants, it has to go into the system with the tank upside down. Of course, you can't just let liquid refrigerant constantly go into the compressor while running or else the compressor can lock up. The atomizer turns the liquid refrigerant into a mist where it can go into the system faster. Have a great day!
Hi, thank you very, VERY much for sharing your knowledge. I'm also a DIY fanatic like Norman below, and I would like to get some HVAC tools and equipment to install 5 mini-split units that run with 410A. What suggestions do you have for a vacuum pump (say a two stage, 6 cfm), vacuum gauge, and manifold? A list of tools would be great. THANK YOU in advance.
Thank you Jarrett! Yellow Jacket or Hilmor offer professional tools in all categories of refrigeration. You can go to their websites to see what they offer and good luck with your installations.
Mr Stuzman. Any idea as to why the blue hose did not do the trick? Thinking about buying a black hose from amazon, along with the other tools you have shown. Do you think a black hose might be worth it? Thanks James, and also for the outstanding video.
Yes, after the video was shot, I investigated the hose and it was fine. The fitting that I had on the vacuum pump where the hose secured to was the wrong type. A simple change of the fitting took care of the issue. Not sure of what black hose you're referring to, but if you're looking for a vacuum rated hose, then it should be fine. And thanks for liking the video!
@@stuzman52 The blue hose you used made by Appion also makes a lower price red and higher price black hose, But if the fitting is the problem I'll probably go with the blue. Let me tell you this, I don"t know what UA-cam's policy is, but if you start a support site. although I don't have much, I'll be glad to contribute because you're worth it.
@@jwkearney1808 Thank you very much Jw, but if you're subscribed and follow the channel, that will be enough thanks for me :)
Sir, can you please give me the Brand names and part numbers of the valve core tools and the connectors that you used to attach to the service valve and also did you remove the schrader valves from the yellow line when you were pulling down the vacuum in the third video . Extremely well done videos , thanks.
Sorry Douglas Knutsen as UA-cam did not contact me. It's getting a little late Douglas, but if you send me a private message with your email address, I'll look up the parts and answer your questions tomorrow. And thank you very much!
One quick question. When you put the valve core back into the service port, Wouldent there be a small air pocket in the valve core removal tool that gets into the system??
To install the valve core under vacuum with minimum contamination, I'd say put the gauge on side port 2 and the vacuum hose on extremity 2 instead of 1, and keep pulling while you open 1 and install the core. Better to install it without vacuum. Crack the gas service valve until the gauge reads ATM, close the valve, remove the gauge and install the core.
Hello Stuzman for the video explanation. Could you please tell me why we do not conduct Nitrogen pressure testing on a mini-split system as we do in case of regular HVAC systems at the time of installation? I recently purchased a Mitsubishi MUZ-GE24NA and its installation manual requires to perform only the vacuum procedure and nothing is mentioned on the pressure test.
Thanks
Yes, Abhinav, the manuals for mini-split units are written towards people, (DIYers) who do an installation themselves. The manufacturer realizes that most DIYers will not have a supply of nitrogen, pressure regulator, etc. for the test. So, they will mention to pull a vacuum on the system and if you see the pressure rise, then you have a leak. The issue is that under a vacuum, you can have a very small leak and will never know it. Once I had a system under a vacuum for 24 hours and never saw the gauge pressure rise. After about one month when the cooling was insufficient, I found a leak. So, to be sure there isn't a leak, the valid test is to pressurize the system with a high pressure of nitrogen. Also, the reason that you see nitrogen pressure testing on standard HVAC units is because most of these units are installed by professional a/c service techs who will have that test equipment. Great question and thanks for the comment!
@@stuzman52 Thank you for your prompt response. Listening to you and another great channel called "AC Service Tech LLC", I finally understood why Testing for leaks under high pressure and under high vacuum are testing different design aspects of the system. Furthermore, your video where you have explained the difference between a Vacuum Gauge and a Micron Meter was amazing which clarified a lot of things, that's why the question. :)
Abhinav Gaur Glad to help Abhinav and AC service tech is a great channel where you have access to a wealth of information!
Because I will be installingt but three or four mini-splits in my lifetime, could I use a simple analog vacuum gauge and shoot for 30 inches of vacuum for a r410a system? I love this concept overall and need to approach it more economically. Thanks!
You can use an analog gauge, but you'll never know how deep a vacuum the system is being pulled. An analog gauge will tell you that you're producing a vacuum, but won't tell you how much. A micron gauge will tell you how much vacuum is being produced. Since you want to save money, let the vacuum pump run for about an hour. That should give you a pretty good vacuum if you don't have any leaks.
@@stuzman52 Thanks for the advice. I will go with a good digital micron guage.
Nice video, I''ve never put nylog on the port caps but may try it
Thanks Richard and never hurts using the Nylog on any threads. Have a great Thanksgiving!
love the work of fakum and I like
Thank you very much!
My favorite video, I thank you...
You're welcome...
Great video. Very nice Job.
Thank you very much!
Did you see how your microns went up to the 6ks by the time you finished? That means you have a leak somewhere. If you go down to 250-500 microns, once you stop the vacuum the microns should not go above 1000, if it increases like it did on your video then it means you have a leak, moat likely a flare connection is loose.
Thanks for your great videos! Why can't you attach the micron gauge directly to the first valve core removal tool?
The reason I used a second valve core removal tool was to protect the micron gauge from the high pressure from the system when the refrigerant was allowed into the system. I'm not sure of what the maximum pressure of the micron gauge I was using so I was just playing it safe. Also Ben, I'm working on a video which compares the micron gauge against a vacuum gauge which you may find useful when it's released.
@@stuzman52 Is this video out yet? I would love to see.
I created two other videos to address quite a few questions from the three other videos. The first part talks about pressures, microns and vacuums which is more of an educational video. The link to this video is here: ua-cam.com/video/SsUYJ1b9sk8/v-deo.html The second video compares a vacuum gauge against a micron gauge and I answered the most asked questions in this video. It's located here: ua-cam.com/video/N-QwtqSw1Xk/v-deo.html Have a great day David!
@@stuzman52 Thank You! Answered a lot of questions.
You're quite welcome David!
The Daikin unit I am putting in my shop per the manual says a minimum of 10 ft of line set. I am going to be pushing that-it may only be 9 ft as inside unit is close to condenser. What is the reason for the minimum? Is it because of the factory precharge? Thanks and enjoyed your videos.
Yes Ted, you are correct! The manufacturer wants a minimum length based on the precharge that's in the outdoor unit. The same holds true for a maximum length of line-set too. Glad to hear that you liked the videos.
Nice set of videos... I am assuming that for a typical instillation of a mini split the condenser is precharged with enough refrigerant, is there a run length that would require larger tubing OR an increase in refrigerant charge? also, when checking that system at any future date, there appears to be no high side port, how is that done?
That is correct that this unit along with other manufacturers comes precharged with the correct amount of refrigerant stored in the condenser. The unit is charged for a maximum line-set length of 25'. You can go as short as 10' in the line-set length without any issues. If you go shorter or longer than indicated, then you'll have to evacuate the refrigerant and adjust the amount according to the installation manual. For example, 0.16 oz/ft if the length exceeds 25'. As for the size of the tubing, that is shipped with the unit and it's size is based on the BTU rating of the unit. And as for their being no high side, if there is a suspicion that the low side is reading too low indicating maybe a low charge, then the system must be evacuated and recharged by weight, same as on an automobile.
Watched it over and over great video greeting from NJ
Thank you Kevin and greetings back at you from NC.
I have a pre-charged line set that has been vacuumed and filled with R-410a refrigerant from the factory, but I need to shorten its length.
Since the lines are factory pre-charged, is there anything special I need to do aside from vacuuming the lines and checking the microns before releasing the R-410a refrigerant from the condenser?
If you can recover the refrigerant from the lines, everything will be as you mentioned except maybe doing a pressure test of the line set before evacuating.
What would be the difference if you placed the micron guage the furthest away in theory in the system, which I would think be the high side
You can't connect the micron gauge to the high side as there is no port to connect anything to. If you were working on a unit where there are two ports, the difference in pressure would be negligible. You always want to connect the micron gauge as close as possible to the unit which will be the furthest away from the vacuum pump.
I've never done it that way. I dont mess with those core removers. I use my gauges with a micron gauge. Then rather then the micron gauge to vacuum leak test I use nitrogen and bubbles on all the connections. Could even do a pressure test with digital gauges.
Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
hello sir i am from Indonesia. i would like to ask you about vacuum procedure. what about if on ac system no more gas or refrigerant. when we do vacuum should we open service valve fully open and high pressure valve also fully open as well? my unit was no more refrigerant at all. so if you don't mind answer my question. 🙏
Rachel, it sounds like you have lost all of your refrigerant most likely from a leak in the system. You would have to pressurize the system with nitrogen and then find the leak. Repair the leak and then repressurize to verify that the repair is done correctly. Afterwards, you would have to weigh the refrigerant back into the system if it's a mini-split unit.
@@stuzman52 thanks sir
@@rachelbenzema7822 You're very welcome Rachel!
Is there a vacuum mode when pulling a vacuum when this isn’t a new install? Is there internal valves that need opening for the vacuum?
There isn't a vacuum mode whether it's a new install or an installation that's already been installed. In your case where the system has been installed, the refrigerant is already in the lines. The recommended procedure is to recover the refrigerant with a machine that will pump it into a tank. Once the refrigerant has been removed from the system, then a vacuum pump can be installed on the system to remove the air. And after the system has been pulled into a vacuum, the refrigerant is weighed back into the system. Have a great day!
Thanks for the quick response! I wasn’t sure if these systems had internal electronic metering valves. I can’t find anything in the manual i downloaded.
What is the procedure for doing a mini split with multiple zones? I plan on doing one with 3 separate line sets
I've never done one with multiple zones, but each zone should have a separate valve. I would suspect that you would pressure test and vacuum each zone separately.
Any problems with the Pioneer split unit since installation Mr. Stuzman? I have been looking around for who makes the most reliable units.
None at all! It's been working great since I installed it last year.
@@stuzman52 thanks
Did you choose the Pioneer because you like the reliability and reviews?
Great video.
Can you tell me where to buy nitrogen gas. All i see for sale online is empty tanks
Check with Air Gas Supply as it's a national chain.
What is that valve/adaptor assembly called with the port for the micron guage and special shraedor valve R&R tool?
That would be a valve core removal tool. The port on mini-splits are 5/16" so a valve core removal tool for that one would be used. Here is a listing for it www.amazon.com/Appion-MGAVCR-Vacuum-Rated-Removal/dp/B008HQ2EZ8/ref=sr_1_19?keywords=appleton+valve+core+removal+tool&qid=1638742856&sr=8-19
@@stuzman52 !! Thank-you !!
POR FAVOR, INDIQUE DONDE COMPRÓ LA BASE O SOPORTE PARA EL CONDENSADOR. GRACIAS
Todo el sistema incluye la unidad exterior y la unidad interior. Fue comprado en Amazon ¡Que tengas un gran día!
@@stuzman52 www.amazon.com/-/es/Senville-soporte-decorativa-acondicionadores-acondicionado/dp/B085ZN1WTG/ref=sr_1_54?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2LT90QY36MPJP&keywords=mini+split+air+bracket&qid=1653636463&sprefix=soporte+para+aire+mini+spli%2Caps%2C327&sr=8-54 LO ENCONTRÉ! MUCHAS GRACIAS!
Also, why not replace the valve stem while the system is under a vacuum? Why did you wait to release the refrigerant and then replace the core?
Having pressure on the valve core would ensure there wouldn't be any chance of the atmosphere coming back into the system. It's a standard practice to install the valve core while under pressure.
No one else put a vacuum on this thing, so nice to see someone do it right... But honestly, why remove the valve core in the first place? I can't imagine it saves that much time when vacuuming.
Thanks Sevalecan and removing the core does save some time, but not a necessary thing to do.