My laser is DIY attached to the tool carriage of my CNC machine. To keep from burning up my spoilboard, I took a piece of hard board (1/4" polished MDF - the stuff they make pegboards out of) and used spray adhesive to laminate a thin steel sheet on top. I made some plywood bumpers and attached those to the edges of the board so that by simply pushing it all the way back and to the right, it will perfectly align with the tool head home/zero. I 3d printed a spacer for the X & Y end stops that slip over them to move zero to the laser (it sits slightly forward of the spindle zero.) I use mending plates like this guy and magnets to keep them from sliding around between jobs. This way, I only lay out what I need when I need them - those points are sharp and dangerous so I don't want a bunch of them exposed unnecessarily. The mending plates do work well. I keep a box of them next to the machine for this express purpose.
Thanks a ton for this! First I had to Google how the part translates to German. Then I found a cheap source with a good size. For a k40, I just need 5 pcs. I spray painted them with black bbq paint, burned the paint in in the grill and just lay them on my existing expanded metal sheet bed. No need to screw down. Worked perfect. No burnmarks on the back at all! This is the end of honeycomb! Thanks again! Great video!
@@scyberjan Building Supply Stores are what we call them in US... the actual name for them are called Truss Plates... try this link Amazon de - www.amazon.com/s?k=truss+plates&crid=2VB689UZM7VVO&sprefix=truss+plates%2Caps%2C139&ref=nb_sb_noss
I might actually try this- was into construction for almost 20 Years until I got injured and used these for their purpose a lot- the spikes aren't all perfectly the same height, though they're pretty close. If I try this I'll do a light wet sand over the top of the pikes to even them out a bit. Really good idea! Thanks, I'd never have thought of this!
As arminth suggested, I painted mine "engine" black to cut down on reflections. I did not screw them down to a board, as my CO2 laser would make a mess of the wood in the open spaces. It does a good job of resisting the burns on the backside, I used Rustoleum High Heat Ceramic coating spray paint. It is advertised to be resistant to heat damage up to 2,000 degrees. You spray a couple coats, then set the paint by baking in the oven. I also tested to see if my cleaner of choice, LA Awesome would clean them with the paint on- and it does, without harming the paint, so far. Thanks for this solution, I have tried so many other things for a bed, this seems the most useful.
I picked up a can of engine paint to do the suggestion, I do believe its a great idea but i've cut on mine so much already it's pretty much black already, LOL guess I'll save the paint
The reflexions of the laser will be very bad for your eyes. That's why these honeycomb alu beds have a 2cm height and their honeycomb structure to avoid reflecting light from spreading all around! Be careful with these new gadgets!
Yes I've got some low profile magnet that would sit below the top going to try that and "Armint" suggested painting the plates with high temp black paint thinking it would cut down on burn marks on bottom of materials. Will try both and post results soon!
I made something like that with a Metal base out of 1/8 steel where I put 8X12 mm magnets as spacers and on top of it I put a Rigid screen that is used for fireplace Rigid screen doors.
I don't know about 9 months ago but they do sell steel honeycomb beds for laser printers for the purpose of using magnets. I have one on the way to me now, 400mm X 400mm for $60 it's a little pricey but they had a discount for $10 off
How is your bed working with magnets? Please let us know and please share a link where you got it. I am assuming amazon, but everything I am seeing there is aluminum.
Brilliant idea and so much cheaper than the honeycomb (which is a rip off) ... just a pity I can't use it as my laser design has the the ability to slide sheets through it!
the welded mesh is called expanded steel... you can find it at big box stores around chimney/masonry stuff or in the small section of steel that they'll have
I'm curious..... is this just because you need content for UA-cam or a sincere search for a laser bed because you can buy one really reasonably priced.
not 100% sure what you asking? I need a laser bed for cutting with the ability to use magnets to pin down materials. Hexagon or extruded laser beds are made from aluminum with ferrous metal only on the perimeter and expanded steel is not flat enough. I've never seen a bed for less than $15 that would work this well.
@@craigmorrisworkshop9514 Just a guess as to what the "viewer" was trying to say... His mother bought him some new underwear and he thinks the world should acknowledge his superiority. It's just a guess, you understand. 😐 I absolutely love the cleat idea!!! My next chore is selected. I did my part by subscribing and liking...now you have to create more content!!!
Do not do this with high powered lasers, not only can the laser be partially reflected towards the operator but also the fumes that can be produced from the high temperature laser. The metal he is using has a coating on it that when heated to a burning temperature which a laser can do produces fumes that are carcinogenic and exposure to them can lead to some nasty side affects. But uncoated metals are safe but should use perforated material to avoid reflecting the laser.
@@jeffallen3382You can etch Stainless Steel with 10W diode lasers, which requires heating the material to 1500°C (2732°F). 20W and 40W are common now.
Wearing glasses or behind safety colored glass what would be the issue? Id be hard pressed to call it reflective either, you'd get more refraction from plexy, or glass which people cut or etch all the time
My laser is DIY attached to the tool carriage of my CNC machine. To keep from burning up my spoilboard, I took a piece of hard board (1/4" polished MDF - the stuff they make pegboards out of) and used spray adhesive to laminate a thin steel sheet on top. I made some plywood bumpers and attached those to the edges of the board so that by simply pushing it all the way back and to the right, it will perfectly align with the tool head home/zero. I 3d printed a spacer for the X & Y end stops that slip over them to move zero to the laser (it sits slightly forward of the spindle zero.) I use mending plates like this guy and magnets to keep them from sliding around between jobs. This way, I only lay out what I need when I need them - those points are sharp and dangerous so I don't want a bunch of them exposed unnecessarily. The mending plates do work well. I keep a box of them next to the machine for this express purpose.
Thanks a ton for this! First I had to Google how the part translates to German. Then I found a cheap source with a good size. For a k40, I just need 5 pcs. I spray painted them with black bbq paint, burned the paint in in the grill and just lay them on my existing expanded metal sheet bed. No need to screw down.
Worked perfect. No burnmarks on the back at all!
This is the end of honeycomb!
Thanks again! Great video!
Awesome,
I'm going to do your high-temp black paint trick... Like "this is the end of honeycomb!"
I need to know: Woher bekomme ich die?
@@scyberjan Building Supply Stores are what we call them in US... the actual name for them are called Truss Plates... try this link Amazon de - www.amazon.com/s?k=truss+plates&crid=2VB689UZM7VVO&sprefix=truss+plates%2Caps%2C139&ref=nb_sb_noss
Welches ist denn deine günstige Quelle? Ich finde nicht mal ne vernünftige Übersetzung. Nur knotenblech und son Kram.
Just use 3/8' SS ball bearings and your done!
I might actually try this- was into construction for almost 20 Years until I got injured and used these for their purpose a lot- the spikes aren't all perfectly the same height, though they're pretty close. If I try this I'll do a light wet sand over the top of the pikes to even them out a bit. Really good idea! Thanks, I'd never have thought of this!
Such a simple idea and worked well too, and as you said, only drawback, it's sharp, nice one.
Great idea! For UK viewers I found these are called truss plates and I found 10 for 10 pounds on Amazon.
As arminth suggested, I painted mine "engine" black to cut down on reflections. I did not screw them down to a board, as my CO2 laser would make a mess of the wood in the open spaces. It does a good job of resisting the burns on the backside, I used Rustoleum High Heat Ceramic coating spray paint. It is advertised to be resistant to heat damage up to 2,000 degrees. You spray a couple coats, then set the paint by baking in the oven.
I also tested to see if my cleaner of choice, LA Awesome would clean them with the paint on- and it does, without harming the paint, so far. Thanks for this solution, I have tried so many other things for a bed, this seems the most useful.
I picked up a can of engine paint to do the suggestion, I do believe its a great idea but i've cut on mine so much already it's pretty much black already, LOL guess I'll save the paint
@@craigmorrisworkshop9514 Question why do reflections matter? What happens if the surface is reflective?
Excellent idea...Thanks for share it...!!!
Nice design. It might be great cutting out small parts that fall through grids, no more searching for them in your waste cutoffs.
The reflexions of the laser will be very bad for your eyes. That's why these honeycomb alu beds have a 2cm height and their honeycomb structure to avoid reflecting light from spreading all around! Be careful with these new gadgets!
Great Idea, Off to the hardware store to get some, thanks Graig you have saved me heaps
No Worries, glad it helped
Good idea. I was going to mention the galvanized coating but you covered it. I'm going to do this on my K40 which is exhausted to the outside.
hell of a backscratcher there!
install magnets on the steel spikes, making it magnetic, and that will attract your work "clamping" magnets better.
Yes I've got some low profile magnet that would sit below the top going to try that and "Armint" suggested painting the plates with high temp black paint thinking it would cut down on burn marks on bottom of materials. Will try both and post results soon!
I like the idea! Thanks for the video and the idea, I'll be visiting Home Depot tomorrow :)
Great it's been about a week or so worth of cutting and i'm still very happy with performance, please let me know how it works for you!
@@craigmorrisworkshop9514 yes I’ve done the exact same setup as you. I’ve cut out several 3mm red oak plywood with no issues. Works great! 👍
Smart idea. Been looking for a cheaper honeycomb alternative. Looks like I found one. Thanks for the video!
You bet!
😊
I made something like that with a Metal base out of 1/8 steel where I put 8X12 mm magnets as spacers and on top of it I put a Rigid screen that is used for fireplace Rigid screen doors.
What a superb idea! 👍
Good Idea, i need something for my D1.
I don't know about 9 months ago but they do sell steel honeycomb beds for laser printers for the purpose of using magnets. I have one on the way to me now, 400mm X 400mm for $60 it's a little pricey but they had a discount for $10 off
Awesome, that seems reasonable... let me know how it works out
How is your bed working with magnets? Please let us know and please share a link where you got it. I am assuming amazon, but everything I am seeing there is aluminum.
@@cn8tion sorry I never got back to you. The steel bed is working out great. It may be too late now but I replied with the link from amazon
Brilliant idea and so much cheaper than the honeycomb (which is a rip off) ... just a pity I can't use it as my laser design has the the ability to slide sheets through it!
Great video , thanks I'm going to make one !
But how would you clean this if you screw them down?
laser cutting plywood is such a mess - my honeycomb looks like a sticky serve stove.
Thank's :) i have to do this...
I use a baking rack without the non-stick coat.
Within the first minute of watching this I was thinking use Neodymium magnets....then you said it
Is the galvanized dangerous, causing zinc oxide poisoning ? My laser box does have exhaust to outside...
What was the down side of the baking racks?
Just use 3/8' SS ball bearings and your done!
how do i find steel mesh like the one used in the welded bed? cant find the name
the welded mesh is called expanded steel... you can find it at big box stores around chimney/masonry stuff or in the small section of steel that they'll have
excelente idea, muchas gracias por tus aportes
Sabes como se llaman en español?
Good idea.
Thanks!
Good stuff
Appreciate it
Super pomysł. Dzięki Wielkie !!
LOL had to translate "Great idea. Thanks a lot"... Your welcome hope it works out for you
Excellent Idee! 👍 Thanks!
You bet!
I'm curious..... is this just because you need content for UA-cam or a sincere search for a laser bed because you can buy one really reasonably priced.
not 100% sure what you asking? I need a laser bed for cutting with the ability to use magnets to pin down materials. Hexagon or extruded laser beds are made from aluminum with ferrous metal only on the perimeter and expanded steel is not flat enough. I've never seen a bed for less than $15 that would work this well.
@@craigmorrisworkshop9514 Just a guess as to what the "viewer" was trying to say...
His mother bought him some new underwear and he thinks the world should acknowledge his superiority.
It's just a guess, you understand. 😐
I absolutely love the cleat idea!!! My next chore is selected. I did my part by subscribing and liking...now you have to create more content!!!
@@dantco Good call, think you nailed it... thanks for sub, I do have a few other things I think others will like, i'll get on it
Do not do this with high powered lasers, not only can the laser be partially reflected towards the operator but also the fumes that can be produced from the high temperature laser. The metal he is using has a coating on it that when heated to a burning temperature which a laser can do produces fumes that are carcinogenic and exposure to them can lead to some nasty side affects. But uncoated metals are safe but should use perforated material to avoid reflecting the laser.
It's not getting that hot!
@@jeffallen3382You can etch Stainless Steel with 10W diode lasers, which requires heating the material to 1500°C (2732°F). 20W and 40W are common now.
Using beds with reflective surfaces when working with lasers is not a good idea.
Wearing glasses or behind safety colored glass what would be the issue? Id be hard pressed to call it reflective either, you'd get more refraction from plexy, or glass which people cut or etch all the time
I worry about the galvanizing giving off poisonous gas that could burn your lungs,
Surface is reflective and dangerous. Better you paint it and make a new video with painting in it.