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Excellent idea...Thanks for share it...!!!

My laser is DIY attached to the tool carriage of my CNC machine. To keep from burning up my spoilboard, I took a piece of hard board (1/4" polished MDF - the stuff they make pegboards out of) and used spray adhesive to laminate a thin steel sheet on top. I made some plywood bumpers and attached those to the edges of the board so that by simply pushing it all the way back and to the right, it will perfectly align with the tool head home/zero. I 3d printed a spacer for the X & Y end stops that slip over them to move zero to the laser (it sits slightly forward of the spindle zero.) I use mending plates like this guy and magnets to keep them from sliding around between jobs. This way, I only lay out what I need when I need them - those points are sharp and dangerous so I don't want a bunch of them exposed unnecessarily. The mending plates do work well. I keep a box of them next to the machine for this express purpose.

But how would you clean this if you screw them down? laser cutting plywood is such a mess - my honeycomb looks like a sticky serve stove.

Galvanised is a biiiiiiiig no no around lasers! highly toxic sh*t coming off those. DO NOT USE THEM!

I worry about the galvanizing giving off poisonous gas that could burn your lungs,

Great idea! For UK viewers I found these are called truss plates and I found 10 for 10 pounds on Amazon.

how do i find steel mesh like the one used in the welded bed? cant find the name

The reflexions of the laser will be very bad for your eyes. That's why these honeycomb alu beds have a 2cm height and their honeycomb structure to avoid reflecting light from spreading all around! Be careful with these new gadgets!

Nice design. It might be great cutting out small parts that fall through grids, no more searching for them in your waste cutoffs.

Such a simple idea and worked well too, and as you said, only drawback, it's sharp, nice one.

Just use 3/8' SS ball bearings and your done!

I might actually try this- was into construction for almost 20 Years until I got injured and used these for their purpose a lot- the spikes aren't all perfectly the same height, though they're pretty close. If I try this I'll do a light wet sand over the top of the pikes to even them out a bit. Really good idea! Thanks, I'd never have thought of this!

What a superb idea! 👍

hell of a backscratcher there!

Those teeth are going to bend over time

Brilliant idea and so much cheaper than the honeycomb (which is a rip off) ... just a pity I can't use it as my laser design has the the ability to slide sheets through it!

What was the down side of the baking racks?

Within the first minute of watching this I was thinking use Neodymium magnets....then you said it

I don't know about 9 months ago but they do sell steel honeycomb beds for laser printers for the purpose of using magnets. I have one on the way to me now, 400mm X 400mm for $60 it's a little pricey but they had a discount for $10 off

excelente idea, muchas gracias por tus aportes

I use a baking rack without the non-stick coat.

Is the galvanized dangerous, causing zinc oxide poisoning ? My laser box does have exhaust to outside...

Good Idea, i need something for my D1.

Thank's :) i have to do this...

Great video , thanks I'm going to make one !

Do not do this with high powered lasers, not only can the laser be partially reflected towards the operator but also the fumes that can be produced from the high temperature laser. The metal he is using has a coating on it that when heated to a burning temperature which a laser can do produces fumes that are carcinogenic and exposure to them can lead to some nasty side affects. But uncoated metals are safe but should use perforated material to avoid reflecting the laser.

Using beds with reflective surfaces when working with lasers is not a good idea.

Great Idea, Off to the hardware store to get some, thanks Graig you have saved me heaps

Good idea. I was going to mention the galvanized coating but you covered it. I'm going to do this on my K40 which is exhausted to the outside.

I'm curious..... is this just because you need content for UA-cam or a sincere search for a laser bed because you can buy one really reasonably priced.

I made something like that with a Metal base out of 1/8 steel where I put 8X12 mm magnets as spacers and on top of it I put a Rigid screen that is used for fireplace Rigid screen doors.

Good stuff

Good idea.

As arminth suggested, I painted mine "engine" black to cut down on reflections. I did not screw them down to a board, as my CO2 laser would make a mess of the wood in the open spaces. It does a good job of resisting the burns on the backside, I used Rustoleum High Heat Ceramic coating spray paint. It is advertised to be resistant to heat damage up to 2,000 degrees. You spray a couple coats, then set the paint by baking in the oven. I also tested to see if my cleaner of choice, LA Awesome would clean them with the paint on- and it does, without harming the paint, so far. Thanks for this solution, I have tried so many other things for a bed, this seems the most useful.

Surface is reflective and dangerous. Better you paint it and make a new video with painting in it.

Smart idea. Been looking for a cheaper honeycomb alternative. Looks like I found one. Thanks for the video!

install magnets on the steel spikes, making it magnetic, and that will attract your work "clamping" magnets better.

Super pomysł. Dzięki Wielkie !!

Excellent Idee! 👍 Thanks!

Thanks a ton for this! First I had to Google how the part translates to German. Then I found a cheap source with a good size. For a k40, I just need 5 pcs. I spray painted them with black bbq paint, burned the paint in in the grill and just lay them on my existing expanded metal sheet bed. No need to screw down. Worked perfect. No burnmarks on the back at all! This is the end of honeycomb! Thanks again! Great video!

I like the idea! Thanks for the video and the idea, I'll be visiting Home Depot tomorrow :)