OH Mr Pete. if only 0.1 % of your subscribers make the part it will still be 284 people that make this offset ! Then think about the guys, like me, that think oh but wait if i do it this way i could make something like that for my Myford or Boxford lathe ! ;) Rest assured your videos are not going unheeded and are and will be a valuable resource for generations to come! These millennials only know how to use software and do 3d printing but there will always be a need to do a little turning / milling and who will teach this ? Your videos will be a machinists bible for people of the future to refer too !
I went to machinist school at Chanute AFB in 1964 & spent 4 years in the Air Force. I loved every minute of it. In the early 80s I picked up a 9" Atlas lathe from a marina that was well cared for which included a lot of accessories. A few years later I ran across the milling machine accessory which comes in handy from time to time so this video was very interesting. I also picked up a Dayton Mill/Drill in the mid 90s which isn't anywhere near as versatile as a Bridgeport but I manage to get by with it. My last 17 months in the Air Force was spent at Edwards AFB where I get to do a lot of experimental projects. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks & keep up the good work.
Thanks for another great video Mr. Peterson. I always stick around for extra credit, just as I did in Junior High and High School. Of course, that was only in my shop classes, not useless stuff like math and English!
I originally came across your fantastic YT Chan about oh, 1.5 week ago when attempting to find more resource info pertaining to specifically an SB 16” Lathe from ‘round the early 40’s.. possibly late 30’s, that I’ve been recently semi-restoring back to at least being fully functional, after it having sat idle for the better part of @ 4 decades! She’s a true beast & weighs in a close match to my ‘55 Buick!😂 It was saved from becoming another batch of Toyota’s & is a fairly close match to the SB lathe that I originally learned on, back in metal shop classes in HS in the late 80’s… in the early 90’s, when attending community college courses for cert’d automotive tech training, & welding courses, there was also one of these SB 16” lathes that had been getting used primarily for the purpose of polishing crankshaft journals/bearing-ways & camshaft lobes/bearing-ways… that is, until I had access to THAT unit! Had several other auto students’ routinely standing around, watching… mesmerized by whatever I was creating with that unit (all projects done on that one, under the guise of being a ‘required reproduced part’ for whatever engine I had in that schools’ shop), managed to fix up several oddball vintage/antique pieces of “Industrial Archeology” equipment I owned back then, with that old SB beast. Anyways… short story, long (lol), after having been away from routinely working in/for a machine shop for over 15 years now, with only minor tinkering here & there on any conventional lathe &/or mill, I’ve once again found myself working in one… to some degree. This shop I’m in is mostly setup for auto repair with gradually adding more & more vintage machine shop equipment/tooling…. I’ve been watching & listening to MANY of your videos over these past several days now, refreshing my memory on many practices, steps &, setups.. all info you’ve shared is highly appreciated! Did I already mention “short story, LONG” ?? Let me finish this longwinded rant with the question that originally was floating around in my head, to cause this whole msg in the first place: Other then essentially scaling-up the dimension’s you’ve surmised/deduced for this adaptor plate, for placement on the cross-feed of this 16”, would the actual SB milling attachment itself be the same model/variant ‘or’, should I seek out obtaining some overall larger variant of this attachment for such milling application? As there isn’t yet any mill in this shop I’m working in. This SB 16” is equipped with telescopic taper attachment as well… Thanks in advance for any input/advise
Thank you for joining me on my channel. I am glad you like my videos. Yes, those big south bend lanes are very heavy. My first car was a 51 Buick with a straight eight. As you can see from the catalog page they made that attachment in several sizes. I doubt you will ever find one of the other ones, I have never seen one in my whole life. But you are to have a pretty big heavy one for that machine
We love you Mr Pete. It doesn't matter if anyone ever makes this part. The point is you inspire people to dust of grandpa's lathe or grab a lathe from a yardsale and at least try. I own a 618 ( bronse bushings) and a Benchmaster vertical with horizontal attachment. One day I will build stuff. For now a bushings here or there or something to that effect.
Same! Well said! This guy used his entire career to teach people how to do important things, and a lot of that was online and for free. What a world where a fellow would give this (and the work, and the editing, and the prep, and the prework) to humanity! Thank you Mr Pete. We are grateful.
That's going to be a handy attachment. It's a wonder the milling attachment didn't come with it in the first place. But then they'd lack one more thing to sell you, lol You mention lighting Mr. Pete and it reminded me to compliment you on how you make your videos. Not just the lighting, but camera angles and presentation. And you do a great job of editing too, inserting clips, still, links, etc even from other videos. I know that's very time consuming so thank you for all of the work you put into your videos. I've made a few videos, no where near as good as yours, and I know that videoing a project makes the project easily twice as long as if you were doing it sans-camera. Then you add your edit time and your rehearsal and research, I can only imagine how much time you invest in making these. I'm glad you enjoying making them for us as we are glad that you do it for us!
I really enjoyed this comment. And yes, it is very difficult to make videos. I spend almost all of my time, thinking, machining, video, taping, and editing. Very labor-intensive. Thank you for noticing the lighting and the camera angles, etc. That is all by design. I do put a lot of thought in it, and there was a big learning curve. And I’m still learning every day, but I enjoy it.
Love it. I think the real benefit is in moving jaws (cutting loads) over top or closer to the center of the compound post. The real weakness of milling attachments is flexibility and overhang. As bad and exactly the same as way overing hanging a cutter.
Very fortuitous you should be doing this Lyle, I have a Boxford lathe, (British SouthbendCopy). Milling attachments for Southbends are like hens gold teeth here in the uk with prices to match but there’s plenty of Myford attachments around. You’ve given me the idea of making a Southbend conversion plate to mount a Myford mill attachment, perfect…..👍🏻 Thankyou for all your time and trouble to make these vids and I bet for every person that comments I there are 100 others who appreciate them.
Mr. Pete thank you again for the amazing service you do for us guys and gals just starting out . I my self have a 9a southbend with the mill attachment and that plate will come in handy.i my self will work on making one to . Again thank you for making these videos.
Hi Mr. Pete , love your videos . My Atlas/Craftsman 6" has a milling attachment , to make it easier to hold small parts I mounted a block on the back of a vice that bolts down in the milling attachment jaws , I also made a face plate with the block . The extender plate looks nice , I'm gonna make one . Thanks .
I will be one of those making this unless i can find one in garage. Ive wanted a mill for a long time. I also learned of the milling attachment from the old catologs/price guides/salesmans item i own, i asked my father about milling in it and he had no idea. Dad had passed on a lathe with lots of tooling from his shop that closed. In boxes i found this milling vise complete and almost unused, hopefully i find an offset and save myself a day. I had been thinking of adding a verticle t-slot fixture among other ideas but havent finished drawing the print in my head. Im 40yrs old, only know manual machines (no desire for CNC machines although familiar with coding and it seems quite easy and also quite boring to do on a computer) anyway, thanks for all the videos you post. I watch nothing online but i actively seek dying knowledge so it may live in me and be passed to those like us. Around 6 minutes in you are talking about the length of time it takes and make senseless parts you suppose. I assume you are being humble and i like that. We know there is never a senseless part. Even if part is a complete failure, it could never be senseless. The knowledge and wisdom gained through failure is priceless. This knowledge can be gained in no other way, watching the same failure be done by another can only provide an incomplete lesson. For the lesson to be fully conceptualized it must be fully yours. YOURE THE BEST MR. PETE! KEEP PASSING ON THE KNOWLEDGE! Mankind has worked hard for millenia to gain our collective knowledge, my biggest fear is losing said knowledge to a computer. Without the computer most my colleagues are useless in machine trades, same with most other professions. This knowledge must be preserved.
Thank you very much for a great comment. Good luck with that milling attachment. I enjoyed your philosophy regarding failures and senseless parts. I totally agree. And I also worry about the lost knowledge and skills. Thanks for watching on. Continue watching.
OMG! Love, love, LOVE the extra filming and lighting tips at the end of the video- I think a guy like you could just make a second channel of just HOW TO FILM machining videos as MOST of the guys on You Tube now, Big or small have all learned-from and copied you anyways - GREAT TIPS old man! EXCELLENT! as always
Thanks for the video! The videos that have chips and swarf are my favorite. My theory is the interest in machining videos is directly proportional to the amount of chips and swarf produced. Don't forget the Dip (:--).
Absolutely fascinating as always Mr. Pete! It must come from years of practise, but one thing I always really enjoy about your demonstrations is the practicality on display. This is the simplest and best way to produce that very complicated part. No question. I am sure there was lots of geometry and indicating you could have done, but this is just the _best_ way! Brilliant, instructional video--as much about the proper _mentality_ of machining as it is about this specific operation
Great video! A threaded fixture plate for my lathe is on the project list and making the round dovetail had me thinking. Thankfully you did all the hard work for me! The fixture plate is for a future engine cylinder line boring project using the lathe.
Nice idea on the attachment. The milling attachment for a lathe is a nice feature that will come in handy. I have a tabletop Enco mill and a full size Sharp VH-25 combination mill in my shop and just last week used my lathe milling attachment on my Atlas because I could not figure an easy way to hold a large T shaped bracket that needed slots lengthened on the mills. On the lathe attachment it was easy to hold and slot
I have been following you since Adam Booth's visit, I find you as amusing as Mr. Jim Miller my shop teacher from high school. Many great memories with that gentleman, I expect that you are a traveler from your many references.
The drive belt on the SB looks like a misaligned illusion in the begging even though I know its definitely not. Thanks for all the info. The school cross slide needs a moment of silence from all machinist lol.
Should have added this to my first comment, but I hadn't thought of it yet...this could also be used to adapt an Atlas milling attachment to the South Bend. The mounting shapes don't need to be for the same lathe. I have an Atlas milling attachment and both an Atlas 6" and a South Bend 9" lathe. Double duty!
Thank you for another great video. I was just thinking of an offset for my milling attachment a few days ago. I may have to adapt this project for my lathe.
I finally completed a number of other projects on my Atlas/Craftsman 101 lathe and am now in the material buying stage of a mill attachment for that lathe. I am basing my mill attachment on both your video as well as the video made by another UA-camr, Don's Engine, who has been very kind sharing information about his build with me. I have 2 questions Mr. Pete: 1. The Atlas/Craftsman cross slide parts are not the strongest ever built. I wonder if they can support the changes required by the offset. Thoughts? 2. I wonder if it might make sense to build the offset into the base of my mill from the very beginning, instead of an additional adapter plate? This could save some material and work. As always, thank you so very much for what you do.
Lyle, do you have a use for some more plastic for machining? Its left from off cuts, and if you can use some, the shipping will be on your nickel. I have some 3/8" and up, but not all sizes. Let me know what you need. After I ship it and you receive it, you can pay the shipping, not before. Also, there's no cost for the materials. I'll let you know the shipping prior to shipping it. I've donated a bunch of this type of material to a local technical college, and the instructor says he follows your videos.
I picked up one of these right after I got my SB 9A, Tried to use it once but couldn't hold the work where I needed it. Than I picked up a Van Norman #10 mill and haven't had it out of the box again. Just had a thought, maybe build a adapter to mount it on my mill for holding work at an angle. Another project. ; )
Don't know that happened to my comment, but I do enjoy and appreciate your videos. I have a generic Palmgren 250 milling attachment for my 9". Not very accurate but lets me do a little milling or slotting on tubing. As a photographer and photo major, the lighting is very important. I was also photographing hallmark inside tubes for a collection. Tough lighting but with today's led lights and some reflectors (white cardboard) you can get a lot of soft even light on things. Thanks again keep up the good videos and work.
Nice.Thanks for he videos!Question for you: How do you keep the smoke for heavy turning and milling steel in your basement from smelling up your home? ... My South Bend makes some smoke in the shop when I get going good and hard on it! (: I could see that as a problem if it were in my basement.
@@mrpete222 HA!!! YES!A true machinist,I say! What do you use that smells the best and smokes the least?Ive tried commercial thread cutting oil, chainsaw bar oil because I like the way it sticks, motor oil because its readily available,It all makes smoke and stinks. Thanks in advance!
Nice job Mr Pete 👍 I really like these projects you come up with. I have a question are those 3 jaw chucks with the bolt on jaw better than one Peace type ? Thanks JM
I see two tapped holes for the milling attachment but shouldn't the offset base have two clearance holes so it can be firmly bolted to the cross slide? Otherwise I see it not being very rigid.
Yes, that would be a good idea. It would be an improvement and be more rigid I am sure. Thanks for the idea. Although South Bend apparently didn’t see that need
Looks like another project for my Heavy 10" South Bend. Not Only does it give you Extra Travel, but if turned 90° to the cross slide it would also move the centerline of the Milling Attachment back over the Cross Slide cutting down on the Excessive Overhang. Along with making one with the 1 1/2" offset as shown, I might actually make one closer to 4 inches offset Just For That Very Reason, as my ways are worn enough there's only so much adjusting I can do on the gib to tighten it up mid-travel without binding at the ends. With the amount of overhang the Milling Attachment has, it TILTS Over Big Time when making all but the lightest of cuts.
This is timely! My lathe is a rather poor copy of a Colchester (as so many import lathes are) and long story short, I need to replace the cross-slide table with something stronger in design. I'm going with a design closer to the Hardinge design, with that round, dovetailed tenon you show here, and an eccentric bolt for locking angular position of the compound. I'll have to figure out (or possible send out drawings and hire) how to make that round dovetail tenon *without* an operable lathe.
@@mrpete222 I'm going to have a go at it with a rotary table on the mill just to see if I can fudge it. Even if the surface finish is suboptimal, it may get the lathe up and running so I can turn a replacement.
You have talked quite a bit about RPM lately. Going from high to lower for wood to metal, but how do you determine RPM from job to job and metal to metal?
You'll probably want to look up "feeds and speeds" rather than rely on some random bloke in the youtube comments however in brief: You lookup a suitable chart / datasheet which will give you values for different combinations of workpiece material and cutter material (HSS / Carbide tools), the 2 numbers you care about are "surface cutting speed" and either "feed per tooth" or "feed per revolution" depending on whether you're on a mill or using a lathe. Surface cutting speed is how fast you should be physically pushing the cutting edge of the tool through the material, typically given in feet per minute, and then feed per X is how big of a "bite" you should be taking every time you go around. Now you get to do some math. On a lathe you divide the surface cutting speed by the part diameter to give you RPM, and then set the gears for the leadscrew to give you an appropriate longitudinal feed per revolution. For example a 3 inch mild steel part with HSS tooling, you'd be targeting a cutting speed of about 150 fpm, so if we divide that by the diameter (in feet) you'll get 150 / (0.25 x 3.14) = 191 RPM, so you'd set the lathe to about 200 RPM, then the same chart will tell you to aim for about a 10 thou chip load (feed per rev) you you'd adjust the gearing on the leadscrew to suit. Milling is a little different because you're spinning the tool not the workpiece, and because you can have multiple cutting edges on the tools. In this case you divide surface cutting speed by the tool diameter to give tool RPM, and then calculate the traverse speed of the mill based on the RPM and number of flutes to give an appropriate feed per tooth. Luckily there are plenty of online tools and spreadsheets and similar that will calculate all this for you, and once you've got some experience you'll be able to have a reasonably good guess at ballpark values depending on what you are trying to do.
@@pypes84 Sometimes relying on some bloke on you tube works out. It did this time for me. Thank you for your answer, you have given me a place and way to start figuring it out for myself, thank you.
My Logan 9" has the same type of attachment (round dovetail) for the compound. I made a round dovetail just as you did, but used cast iron instead, and tapped it and bolted it to the bottom of one of these: "ACTOOLS Lathe Milling Vertical Slide & 50 mm Self Centering Vise Vice-Engineering Tools" which is $130 on Amazon from India (or Ebay same thing). I did use my compound set to the right angle to whittle it away, but your method with the tool cut to the right angle looks faster. The vise is horrible by the way, I replaced with a 2" toolmaker vise, but otherwise it works fine and MUCH cheaper than a factory Logan or SB milling attachment. I found it to be quite square, only problem is the metric leade screw.
There’s a time to use a hammer and sharp chisel and a time to precision scrape and fit a boring machine bed to perfection. Mr. Rucker knows when and how to do both.
@@mrpete222 I just looked and you ain't kidding. $400-500 for this thing? Limited utility, I guess it's collectors value? I'm keeping it, I have the 9A it fits on :p
A form tool for a short taper? You better go back to Tips 701 and revise it for a 4th way to cut a taper. I would think that the Compound Rest Method would be ideal for this job. Measuring an outside angle is easier so would it be better to measure the end of the lock pin? After all that is the angle of the mating part.
have seen a few Atlas, never a South Bend. i have one about 1/2 made for my lathe. At my current rate it will be done in 2048, mine will mount on the t slots in the front of the carriage
Let's back up for a minute and think about what that dovetail is for. It's where the set screws seat and the angle keeps the peg from climbing up. And, any scuffs from the set screws won't keep the peg trapped in the bore, or let it scuff the bore when you remove it. So, I don't think the angle is especially important as long as the set screws seat on the angled section, not the cylindrical parts. I would think the important part is that the size of the cylindrical part is what's critical as that locates the whole milling attachment. If it's sloppy, it has a chance of shifting under cuts. So, I'd pay a lot more attention to keeping the fit of that to a max of a thousandth or two.
If a dovetail requires a precise diameter, you must measure and spec by the pitch diameter, not the outside or inside diameters of the ends. You can measure the pitch diameter by mic'ing the span with pin gauges or precision dowel pins in the inside corner of the dovetail. This is similar to the critical dimension of a screw thread being the pitch diameter, not the major or minor diameter, which is awkward to measure, such as with the three-wire method. But this is the only way to arrive at a precise result that guarantees a fit to the standard. You can think of dovetails as screw threads with zero pitch.
saw this in real life a few months ago, a guy was asking $500 for the milling attachment and it came with the offset plate! He had acquired a 9" south bend unit and had parted parts out and sold them and according to him he made quite some $$ there. Only thing remaining were the milling attachment and the V way with the stubby feet. it was a 36" long bed that I was able to get it for free as he was getting rid of it.
When the video started and we saw the part I said let's make it a one-piece unit out of gray iron. Well then I priced a piece of new gray bar, you can buy the adapter for less money, yikes.
Hi Mr Pete I have a request i bought some sweatshirts of yours and would like to get a couple T shirts but it said there out of the type you picked for long time now can you fix it so we can get some souvenirs i will remove this comment in a day Thanks JM
Simple, grab a young dude and ask him to watch a Mr. Pete video with you. After you finish, hopefully with lots of questions, you’ll have a good friend.
1 1/2" but why not make it 2" ? Seems like you have enough length on the plate for the offset. Perhaps you wont have enough travel then on the other side ?
@@mrpete222 Hi Mr. Pete, I was contacted by Tom Lipton today, he is still with us! the internet rumor mill really sucks some times! Have a good day, Craig.
so many clever ideas here. Thank you, as always, Mr Pete!
😀
OH Mr Pete. if only 0.1 % of your subscribers make the part it will still be 284 people that make this offset ! Then think about the guys, like me, that think oh but wait if i do it this way i could make something like that for my Myford or Boxford lathe ! ;) Rest assured your videos are not going unheeded and are and will be a valuable resource for generations to come! These millennials only know how to use software and do 3d printing but there will always be a need to do a little turning / milling and who will teach this ? Your videos will be a machinists bible for people of the future to refer too !
Thank you very much for the encouragement
Sounds like a machinist who knows his math, but good point. Thanks for speaking up.
@@michaelcerkez3895 Naa i just use a calculator :D
I went to machinist school at Chanute AFB in 1964 & spent 4 years in the Air Force. I loved every minute of it. In the early 80s I picked up a 9" Atlas lathe from a marina that was well cared for which included a lot of accessories. A few years later I ran across the milling machine accessory which comes in handy from time to time so this video was very interesting. I also picked up a Dayton Mill/Drill in the mid 90s which isn't anywhere near as versatile as a Bridgeport but I manage to get by with it. My last 17 months in the Air Force was spent at Edwards AFB where I get to do a lot of experimental projects. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks & keep up the good work.
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Thanks for another great video Mr. Peterson. I always stick around for extra credit, just as I did in Junior High and High School. Of course, that was only in my shop classes, not useless stuff like math and English!
lol
I originally came across your fantastic YT Chan about oh, 1.5 week ago when attempting to find more resource info pertaining to specifically an SB 16” Lathe from ‘round the early 40’s.. possibly late 30’s, that I’ve been recently semi-restoring back to at least being fully functional, after it having sat idle for the better part of @ 4 decades! She’s a true beast & weighs in a close match to my ‘55 Buick!😂 It was saved from becoming another batch of Toyota’s & is a fairly close match to the SB lathe that I originally learned on, back in metal shop classes in HS in the late 80’s… in the early 90’s, when attending community college courses for cert’d automotive tech training, & welding courses, there was also one of these SB 16” lathes that had been getting used primarily for the purpose of polishing crankshaft journals/bearing-ways & camshaft lobes/bearing-ways… that is, until I had access to THAT unit! Had several other auto students’ routinely standing around, watching… mesmerized by whatever I was creating with that unit (all projects done on that one, under the guise of being a ‘required reproduced part’ for whatever engine I had in that schools’ shop), managed to fix up several oddball vintage/antique pieces of “Industrial Archeology” equipment I owned back then, with that old SB beast. Anyways… short story, long (lol), after having been away from routinely working in/for a machine shop for over 15 years now, with only minor tinkering here & there on any conventional lathe &/or mill, I’ve once again found myself working in one… to some degree. This shop I’m in is mostly setup for auto repair with gradually adding more & more vintage machine shop equipment/tooling…. I’ve been watching & listening to MANY of your videos over these past several days now, refreshing my memory on many practices, steps &, setups.. all info you’ve shared is highly appreciated! Did I already mention “short story, LONG” ?? Let me finish this longwinded rant with the question that originally was floating around in my head, to cause this whole msg in the first place: Other then essentially scaling-up the dimension’s you’ve surmised/deduced for this adaptor plate, for placement on the cross-feed of this 16”, would the actual SB milling attachment itself be the same model/variant ‘or’, should I seek out obtaining some overall larger variant of this attachment for such milling application? As there isn’t yet any mill in this shop I’m working in. This SB 16” is equipped with telescopic taper attachment as well… Thanks in advance for any input/advise
Thank you for joining me on my channel. I am glad you like my videos. Yes, those big south bend lanes are very heavy. My first car was a 51 Buick with a straight eight. As you can see from the catalog page they made that attachment in several sizes. I doubt you will ever find one of the other ones, I have never seen one in my whole life. But you are to have a pretty big heavy one for that machine
We love you Mr Pete. It doesn't matter if anyone ever makes this part. The point is you inspire people to dust of grandpa's lathe or grab a lathe from a yardsale and at least try. I own a 618 ( bronse bushings) and a Benchmaster vertical with horizontal attachment. One day I will build stuff. For now a bushings here or there or something to that effect.
Thank you very much, that encourages me as well
Same! Well said! This guy used his entire career to teach people how to do important things, and a lot of that was online and for free. What a world where a fellow would give this (and the work, and the editing, and the prep, and the prework) to humanity! Thank you Mr Pete. We are grateful.
'Almost went to the doctor - almost' The tea cup kids these days would be panicking. Thanks for all great videos & advice!
That's going to be a handy attachment. It's a wonder the milling attachment didn't come with it in the first place. But then they'd lack one more thing to sell you, lol
You mention lighting Mr. Pete and it reminded me to compliment you on how you make your videos. Not just the lighting, but camera angles and presentation. And you do a great job of editing too, inserting clips, still, links, etc even from other videos. I know that's very time consuming so thank you for all of the work you put into your videos.
I've made a few videos, no where near as good as yours, and I know that videoing a project makes the project easily twice as long as if you were doing it sans-camera. Then you add your edit time and your rehearsal and research, I can only imagine how much time you invest in making these. I'm glad you enjoying making them for us as we are glad that you do it for us!
I really enjoyed this comment. And yes, it is very difficult to make videos. I spend almost all of my time, thinking, machining, video, taping, and editing. Very labor-intensive. Thank you for noticing the lighting and the camera angles, etc. That is all by design. I do put a lot of thought in it, and there was a big learning curve. And I’m still learning every day, but I enjoy it.
Nicely done on the round dovetail. The rotary table and a dovetail cutter would work.
That would’ve been a good idea Randy. It never occurred to me thank you
Love it. I think the real benefit is in moving jaws (cutting loads) over top or closer to the center of the compound post. The real weakness of milling attachments is flexibility and overhang. As bad and exactly the same as way overing hanging a cutter.
Very fortuitous you should be doing this Lyle, I have a Boxford lathe, (British SouthbendCopy). Milling attachments for Southbends are like hens gold teeth here in the uk with prices to match but there’s plenty of Myford attachments around. You’ve given me the idea of making a Southbend conversion plate to mount a Myford mill attachment, perfect…..👍🏻 Thankyou for all your time and trouble to make these vids and I bet for every person that comments I there are 100 others who appreciate them.
Thanks
Great project! I was also unaware of the offset base, but I do have the milling attachment for my SB 9A.
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Very good Safety Tip covering the end mill to avoid injury. My father had a saying regarding machines, "Don't fear them respect them".
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A very good show sir and the lighting tips were great thank you
Mr. Pete thank you again for the amazing service you do for us guys and gals just starting out . I my self have a 9a southbend with the mill attachment and that plate will come in handy.i my self will work on making one to . Again thank you for making these videos.
👍👍👍
Hi Mr. Pete , love your videos . My Atlas/Craftsman 6" has a milling attachment , to make it easier to hold small parts I mounted a block on the back of a vice that bolts down in the milling attachment jaws , I also made a face plate with the block . The extender plate looks nice , I'm gonna make one . Thanks .
👍👍👍
Thanks teach, I love your videos, they are clear and complete, and super interesting to me.
Thanks
@@mrpete222 You are welcome sir.
Much respect, thanks for reminding everyone how sharp a stationary is thus dangerous as is.
I will be one of those making this unless i can find one in garage. Ive wanted a mill for a long time. I also learned of the milling attachment from the old catologs/price guides/salesmans item i own, i asked my father about milling in it and he had no idea. Dad had passed on a lathe with lots of tooling from his shop that closed. In boxes i found this milling vise complete and almost unused, hopefully i find an offset and save myself a day. I had been thinking of adding a verticle t-slot fixture among other ideas but havent finished drawing the print in my head. Im 40yrs old, only know manual machines (no desire for CNC machines although familiar with coding and it seems quite easy and also quite boring to do on a computer) anyway, thanks for all the videos you post. I watch nothing online but i actively seek dying knowledge so it may live in me and be passed to those like us. Around 6 minutes in you are talking about the length of time it takes and make senseless parts you suppose. I assume you are being humble and i like that. We know there is never a senseless part. Even if part is a complete failure, it could never be senseless. The knowledge and wisdom gained through failure is priceless. This knowledge can be gained in no other way, watching the same failure be done by another can only provide an incomplete lesson. For the lesson to be fully conceptualized it must be fully yours. YOURE THE BEST MR. PETE! KEEP PASSING ON THE KNOWLEDGE! Mankind has worked hard for millenia to gain our collective knowledge, my biggest fear is losing said knowledge to a computer. Without the computer most my colleagues are useless in machine trades, same with most other professions. This knowledge must be preserved.
Thank you very much for a great comment. Good luck with that milling attachment. I enjoyed your philosophy regarding failures and senseless parts. I totally agree. And I also worry about the lost knowledge and skills. Thanks for watching on. Continue watching.
Another Tubalcain production. Great stuff!
I love your videos. Thanks for all your time. I hope your Thanksgiving is wonderful.
Before I inherited my Father-in-law's Atlas lathe, I remember hearing him tell me "The main thing you do with a lathe is make tools for the lathe."
lol
Great video. Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
OMG! Love, love, LOVE the extra filming and lighting tips at the end of the video- I think a guy like you could just make a second channel of just HOW TO FILM machining videos as MOST of the guys on You Tube now, Big or small have all learned-from and copied you anyways - GREAT TIPS old man! EXCELLENT! as always
Love your vids. got me a southbend a while back. I can't wait to get it up and running again.
Thanks for the video! The videos that have chips and swarf are my favorite. My theory is the interest in machining videos is directly proportional to the amount of chips and swarf produced. Don't forget the Dip (:--).
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Absolutely fascinating as always Mr. Pete!
It must come from years of practise, but one thing I always really enjoy about your demonstrations is the practicality on display. This is the simplest and best way to produce that very complicated part. No question. I am sure there was lots of geometry and indicating you could have done, but this is just the _best_ way!
Brilliant, instructional video--as much about the proper _mentality_ of machining as it is about this specific operation
Thank you very very much, I appreciate your comment
Great video! A threaded fixture plate for my lathe is on the project list and making the round dovetail had me thinking. Thankfully you did all the hard work for me!
The fixture plate is for a future engine cylinder line boring project using the lathe.
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Thank you! I always wondered what the two threaded holes in my SB Light 10’s cross slide were for. Now I know.
That round dovetail came out sweet using the form tool, I didn't notice any chatter when you were taking the cuts.
Nice idea on the attachment. The milling attachment for a lathe is a nice feature that will come in handy. I have a tabletop Enco mill and a full size Sharp VH-25 combination mill in my shop and just last week used my lathe milling attachment on my Atlas because I could not figure an easy way to hold a large T shaped bracket that needed slots lengthened on the mills. On the lathe attachment it was easy to hold and slot
Good crew at that Florida Flywheelers show!
A “bad” Mr. Pete video is better than a “good”, well most other videos 💁🏼♂️ throughly enjoyed your little side comments in this one 😄
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I have been following you since Adam Booth's visit, I find you as amusing as Mr. Jim Miller my shop teacher from high school. Many great memories with that gentleman, I expect that you are a traveler from your many references.
Thanks
The drive belt on the SB looks like a misaligned illusion in the begging even though I know its definitely not. Thanks for all the info. The school cross slide needs a moment of silence from all machinist lol.
Magnificent video and great idea.Thank you.
I'll be one of the two! Thanks again for sharing.
Should have added this to my first comment, but I hadn't thought of it yet...this could also be used to adapt an Atlas milling attachment to the South Bend. The mounting shapes don't need to be for the same lathe. I have an Atlas milling attachment and both an Atlas 6" and a South Bend 9" lathe. Double duty!
Great idea, I never thought of it. That might be a possible video for me someday. But only if a lot of people wash watch this one
Thank you for another great video. I was just thinking of an offset for my milling attachment a few days ago. I may have to adapt this project for my lathe.
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Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
I finally completed a number of other projects on my Atlas/Craftsman 101 lathe and am now in the material buying stage of a mill attachment for that lathe. I am basing my mill attachment on both your video as well as the video made by another UA-camr, Don's Engine, who has been very kind sharing information about his build with me. I have 2 questions Mr. Pete:
1. The Atlas/Craftsman cross slide parts are not the strongest ever built. I wonder if they can support the changes required by the offset. Thoughts?
2. I wonder if it might make sense to build the offset into the base of my mill from the very beginning, instead of an additional adapter plate? This could save some material and work.
As always, thank you so very much for what you do.
There is a tremendous lack of rigidity in smaller machines. But my offset base is designed for the South Bend machine
No point telling my friends, Mr. Pete - they already like your videos! 👍
lol
Mr Pete. I hope you are feeling better.
Paul
Thank you for this video. You are the best!
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Lyle, do you have a use for some more plastic for machining? Its left from off cuts, and if you can use some, the shipping will be on your nickel. I have some 3/8" and up, but not all sizes. Let me know what you need. After I ship it and you receive it, you can pay the shipping, not before. Also, there's no cost for the materials. I'll let you know the shipping prior to shipping it. I've donated a bunch of this type of material to a local technical college, and the instructor says he follows your videos.
Thank you for the offer. I already have a good supply of plastic, Delran etc.
Mr Pete: Don't really think this is worthy of actually using, but I'm going to show y'all anyway because it's still important. Love it.
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always great Lyle.......best regards, Paul
I picked up one of these right after I got my SB 9A, Tried to use it once but couldn't hold the work where I needed it. Than I picked up a Van Norman #10 mill and haven't had it out of the box again. Just had a thought, maybe build a adapter to mount it on my mill for holding work at an angle. Another project. ; )
Don't know that happened to my comment, but I do enjoy and appreciate your videos. I have a generic Palmgren 250 milling attachment for my 9". Not very accurate but lets me do a little milling or slotting on tubing.
As a photographer and photo major, the lighting is very important. I was also photographing hallmark inside tubes for a collection. Tough lighting but with today's led lights and some reflectors (white cardboard) you can get a lot of soft even light on things.
Thanks again keep up the good videos and work.
Thanks for the tip. I have no training in photography or lighting. I am just operating by the seat of my pants
@@mrpete222 You must have pretty good pants :)
Thank you . Where did you get that wonderful T shirt ?
Me. Pete, about 3 min in, couldn't you have rotated the milling attachment 180º to get the extra travel?
Nice.Thanks for he videos!Question for you: How do you keep the smoke for heavy turning and milling steel in your basement from smelling up your home?
... My South Bend makes some smoke in the shop when I get going good and hard on it! (: I could see that as a problem if it were in my basement.
I love the smell of cutting oil smoke. and I am most happy when it permeates the entire household
@@mrpete222 HA!!! YES!A true machinist,I say!
What do you use that smells the best and smokes the least?Ive tried commercial thread cutting oil, chainsaw bar oil because I like the way it sticks, motor oil because its readily available,It all makes smoke and stinks. Thanks in advance!
Extra Credit was wonderful....
Nice job Mr Pete 👍 I really like these projects you come up with.
I have a question are those 3 jaw chucks with the bolt on jaw better than one Peace type ? Thanks JM
I don’t know if they’re better, just different. I prefer the one piece jaws
@@mrpete222 all right thank you Mr Pete
As a want a be machinist and a retaired Television engineer. Your tutorial on lighting was excellent. I just wish u tubers would learn.
Thanks
I am going to make a similar mount for my 9a , thank you for this..
I see two tapped holes for the milling attachment but shouldn't the offset base have two clearance holes so it can be firmly bolted to the cross slide? Otherwise I see it not being very rigid.
Yes, that would be a good idea. It would be an improvement and be more rigid I am sure. Thanks for the idea. Although South Bend apparently didn’t see that need
Looks like another project for my Heavy 10" South Bend.
Not Only does it give you Extra Travel, but if turned 90° to the cross slide it would also move the centerline of the Milling Attachment back over the Cross Slide cutting down on the Excessive Overhang.
Along with making one with the 1 1/2" offset as shown, I might actually make one closer to 4 inches offset Just For That Very Reason, as my ways are worn enough there's only so much adjusting I can do on the gib to tighten it up mid-travel without binding at the ends. With the amount of overhang the Milling Attachment has, it TILTS Over Big Time when making all but the lightest of cuts.
I LIKED THE TIP ON LIGHTING
Could you treat this as if you were cutting threads? That is, set your compound to 30 degrees (29.5?) and feed the form tool with the compound?
Thanks for the video.
This is timely! My lathe is a rather poor copy of a Colchester (as so many import lathes are) and long story short, I need to replace the cross-slide table with something stronger in design. I'm going with a design closer to the Hardinge design, with that round, dovetailed tenon you show here, and an eccentric bolt for locking angular position of the compound. I'll have to figure out (or possible send out drawings and hire) how to make that round dovetail tenon *without* an operable lathe.
That is a tough one
@@mrpete222 I'm going to have a go at it with a rotary table on the mill just to see if I can fudge it. Even if the surface finish is suboptimal, it may get the lathe up and running so I can turn a replacement.
Thank you Mr Pete.
Thanks for sharing 👍
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I made a round dovetail for attaching an angle plate a few years ago.
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I made one years ago for my SB13 and used it all the time until I finally picked up a SB 7" shaper.
You have talked quite a bit about RPM lately. Going from high to lower for wood to metal, but how do you determine RPM from job to job and metal to metal?
You'll probably want to look up "feeds and speeds" rather than rely on some random bloke in the youtube comments however in brief:
You lookup a suitable chart / datasheet which will give you values for different combinations of workpiece material and cutter material (HSS / Carbide tools), the 2 numbers you care about are "surface cutting speed" and either "feed per tooth" or "feed per revolution" depending on whether you're on a mill or using a lathe. Surface cutting speed is how fast you should be physically pushing the cutting edge of the tool through the material, typically given in feet per minute, and then feed per X is how big of a "bite" you should be taking every time you go around.
Now you get to do some math. On a lathe you divide the surface cutting speed by the part diameter to give you RPM, and then set the gears for the leadscrew to give you an appropriate longitudinal feed per revolution. For example a 3 inch mild steel part with HSS tooling, you'd be targeting a cutting speed of about 150 fpm, so if we divide that by the diameter (in feet) you'll get 150 / (0.25 x 3.14) = 191 RPM, so you'd set the lathe to about 200 RPM, then the same chart will tell you to aim for about a 10 thou chip load (feed per rev) you you'd adjust the gearing on the leadscrew to suit.
Milling is a little different because you're spinning the tool not the workpiece, and because you can have multiple cutting edges on the tools. In this case you divide surface cutting speed by the tool diameter to give tool RPM, and then calculate the traverse speed of the mill based on the RPM and number of flutes to give an appropriate feed per tooth.
Luckily there are plenty of online tools and spreadsheets and similar that will calculate all this for you, and once you've got some experience you'll be able to have a reasonably good guess at ballpark values depending on what you are trying to do.
@@pypes84 Sometimes relying on some bloke on you tube works out. It did this time for me. Thank you for your answer, you have given me a place and way to start figuring it out for myself, thank you.
My Logan 9" has the same type of attachment (round dovetail) for the compound. I made a round dovetail just as you did, but used cast iron instead, and tapped it and bolted it to the bottom of one of these: "ACTOOLS Lathe Milling Vertical Slide & 50 mm Self Centering Vise Vice-Engineering Tools" which is $130 on Amazon from India (or Ebay same thing). I did use my compound set to the right angle to whittle it away, but your method with the tool cut to the right angle looks faster. The vise is horrible by the way, I replaced with a 2" toolmaker vise, but otherwise it works fine and MUCH cheaper than a factory Logan or SB milling attachment. I found it to be quite square, only problem is the metric leade screw.
Thank you, I just looked at one of those on Google. Very interesting, I have never seen one
I saw Mr Rucker with a hammer and chisel, didn't know his middle name was Buba
Lol great comment! Rucker IS a hack
There’s a time to use a hammer and sharp chisel and a time to precision scrape and fit a boring machine bed to perfection. Mr. Rucker knows when and how to do both.
@@jacobpoucher Na Mr Rucker is a good ole boy from Georgia He could fix anything
@@bulldawg6259 lol 🙄
Companies had casting for a top slide with tee slots in it long time ago. Might still be around. Someone else had to have seen it.
I bought milling attachment and offset at a school auction in central Illinois
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great video, what kind of height gauge do you use. thank you
I favor of the Mitutoyo
So that's what that thing is... apparently I have one of those SB milling attachments. Had no idea what it was until now.
Sell it on eBay they are they are worth lots of money
@@mrpete222 I just looked and you ain't kidding. $400-500 for this thing? Limited utility, I guess it's collectors value? I'm keeping it, I have the 9A it fits on :p
THANK YOU MR PETE
I just purchased a milling attachment from a gentleman who was the original owner. It has the South Bend offset plate
Awesome, I had never seen an offset plate except in the catalog
I like your videos Mr Pete. However I never tell all my two friends about you. They all watch you too! Cheers
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A form tool for a short taper? You better go back to Tips 701 and revise it for a 4th way to cut a taper. I would think that the Compound Rest Method would be ideal for this job.
Measuring an outside angle is easier so would it be better to measure the end of the lock pin? After all that is the angle of the mating part.
have seen a few Atlas, never a South Bend. i have one about 1/2 made for my lathe. At my current rate it will be done in 2048, mine will mount on the t slots in the front of the carriage
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Let's back up for a minute and think about what that dovetail is for. It's where the set screws seat and the angle keeps the peg from climbing up. And, any scuffs from the set screws won't keep the peg trapped in the bore, or let it scuff the bore when you remove it.
So, I don't think the angle is especially important as long as the set screws seat on the angled section, not the cylindrical parts. I would think the important part is that the size of the cylindrical part is what's critical as that locates the whole milling attachment. If it's sloppy, it has a chance of shifting under cuts. So, I'd pay a lot more attention to keeping the fit of that to a max of a thousandth or two.
If a dovetail requires a precise diameter, you must measure and spec by the pitch diameter, not the outside or inside diameters of the ends. You can measure the pitch diameter by mic'ing the span with pin gauges or precision dowel pins in the inside corner of the dovetail. This is similar to the critical dimension of a screw thread being the pitch diameter, not the major or minor diameter, which is awkward to measure, such as with the three-wire method. But this is the only way to arrive at a precise result that guarantees a fit to the standard. You can think of dovetails as screw threads with zero pitch.
I like it!!
My light 10 came with a shop built offset plate, the milling attachment and offset is worth more than the entire lathe.
Yes
Still waiting for the Atlas gear cutting attachment video!
I am working on it right now. I finished part three out of six parts. Not sure when it will premiere
@@mrpete222 that’s so cool!
Couldn't the round dovetail be generated with the top slide instead of forming, at least for the finishing cut.
Sure
saw this in real life a few months ago, a guy was asking $500 for the milling attachment and it came with the offset plate! He had acquired a 9" south bend unit and had parted parts out and sold them and according to him he made quite some $$ there. Only thing remaining were the milling attachment and the V way with the stubby feet. it was a 36" long bed that I was able to get it for free as he was getting rid of it.
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Rather than making a 60° form tool, I would have ground one a bit more acute and used the compound to form the dovetail angle.
I would be temped to make the new one out of thicker steel so I could increase the “offset”. (More than 1 1/2”)
I think you'll find everyone likes your videos Mr. Pete
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When the video started and we saw the part I said let's make it a one-piece unit out of gray iron. Well then I priced a piece of new gray bar, you can buy the adapter for less money, yikes.
@ 8:30 ROFL
Hi Mr Pete I have a request i bought some sweatshirts of yours and would like to get a couple T shirts but it said there out of the type you picked for long time now can you fix it so we can get some souvenirs i will remove this comment in a day Thanks JM
I haven’t looked at the T-shirt website in a long time. Are you saying that my shirts are not available?
@@mrpete222 yes sir that's what I am saying T-shirts not available
Rimshot!
What if...? I like your videos, but I don’t have any friends. 🙄
My friend is named Buba Mr Pete make fun of him
Simple, grab a young dude and ask him to watch a Mr. Pete video with you. After you finish, hopefully with lots of questions, you’ll have a good friend.
Mr.pete I have an original I would love to donate to you if you are interested in it.
Yes, I would like that. Please find my mailing address and the following video of mine.
Christmas special MrPete shop courses videos
Wow! I've seen a lot of chewed up compounds but your sample is the worst I've seen.
Believe it or not, that did not come from my high school, lol
1 1/2" but why not make it 2" ? Seems like you have enough length on the plate for the offset. Perhaps you wont have enough travel then on the other side ?
Nice picture of you and Tom Lipton. I was saddened to hear about his no longer being with us.
Did Tom die? If so I am shocked and saddened
@@mrpete222 I really don't know for sure, but that is the scuttlebutt on several chats online. Of course the internet isn't a place for trusted news.
@@mrpete222 Hi Mr. Pete, I was contacted by Tom Lipton today, he is still with us! the internet rumor mill really sucks some times!
Have a good day,
Craig.