Drives me a little crazy. You provide such sensible tips, I get mad at myself for not thinking of them myself. Thank goodness your out there so I can get a little smarter.
Well I have to make a small gear for my old self loading boat rack for a tin boat. Uses a winch to spin the shaft. Do wind up the ropes to flip the boat on, one fiber gear broke, I’ll try this one day and make a new gear! Thanks
That was a great idea drilling a hole through the shaft for a locking pin should the need arise. I'm really looking forward to seeing it in action as it looks like a well thought out design.
Lyle - Another good, informative video. Comment on concentricity is technically correct. However, we're talking about home shop level construction and usage here and and not 'flight/space' quality hardware. Different skill levels and usage - plus as Clint Eaatwood said 'a man has to know his limitations'. In my home shop I sure don't hit the level I had to worry about as an engineering manager of flight and space hardware. I'm nowhere as good as the tool makers and technicians I traveled with in my working career. Keep up the great work.
@bcbloc02 Would a keyway be prudent on both ends milled inline with one another allow for the blank gear to have it's teeth cut at the orientation as the original?
The through hole for the Tommy bar was a great idea Mr. Pete, along with using less material with the collar you pinned on. With the keyway you cut, could it be possible to make keys with one half fitting the shaft and the other half fitting the gear? It would be tedious but once made save them as part of the kit. Or make the keyway deeper so a half key would slide in containing a pin to fit the keyway on the gear. Great video series and I hope we get the opportunity to see you cut some gears with it. Thank you for sharing sir. Joe
Thanx Mr Pete. This article will surely benefit guys like me and many others whom dont have access or own any device that makes indexing and gearcutting easier. This is direct and simple and you can be sure i will start making mine soon ive seen all videos up to now and find them relative to myself in terms of skill and availability of equipment to make the article this is definately on my to do list😅
What you made with the hole that goes through the housing and shaft for the screwdriver is called a Tommy hole and bar. It’s used for the same exact purpose you made yours for.
I enjoy single point threading, do it every chance I get. When I learned the Bruce Witham method it increased my confidence and accuracy exponentially.
I seems to me that you will not have enough tool clearance from the fixture when cutting small gears like you have fitted……. Does the “blank” end of the shaft need to be extended? I would love to see you cut that gear.
I'm enjoying watching the use of the diamond tool holder. I have considered getting one for myself. Curious to know if something similar would work on my Southbend Shaper. I have also considered building my own. gear cutting fixture for my little Atlas Mill. I have an indexing head but have not tried it on the Atlas. I may not have enough head room to use the Indexing head. This is certainly a great project for the Hobby Machinist. Thanks for bringing us along.
I don't know if someone has already suggested this but, if you have only one index shaft but require different keyway widths for the different gears, you might want to consider cutting additional keyways of different widths in the index shaft, spacing them about 60 degrees from each other. This way the index shaft can be used with up to six different "keyway widths" gears.
@dennisa2839 Also, would it be prudent to add a matching keyway at the opposite (blank gear) end so that the keyway for the new part matches the old part?
A great project would be a cross drilling fixture; something good for a a variety of shaft sizes (unlike the ones you showed years and years ago). I'm hunting for a good design right now, so when I get the shop cleaned up I can make one.
What I find particularly interesting is to see you recognize and then overcome problems on the fly. The too narrow thread on the blueprint is something that I think would trip-up almost every beginner who tackled this project. Also, that perfect solution to removing a tight nut from both ends by drilling a hole and then using a pin (screwdriver!) to lock the shaft. Those kinds of common-sense and practical examples of emergent problem-solving is what we miss on so many handicraft videos. One question I do have is in regards cutting thread. I think you prefer using a die to make a thread whereas Keith Rucker always cuts his threads using his lathe and its screw-thread advance feature. Is there a reason you choose one method over the other? It goes without saying, but I will say it anyway--brilliant work as ever Mr. Pete!!!
Mr. Pete. Thanks for your excellent machinist mentorship ! When manually threading with either a tap or die, it is always important to break the chips by alternating forward and back. When you just drive the die all the way on with the lathe, aren't you risking thread damage by having no means to clear the chips?
Lyle. How about a 5/8" hole and a 3/4" counterbore for the colar you pinned to the shaft ? I am still looking forward to you knurling that conical knob.
I just watched your gear cutting video where you used this fixture. I had a thought that if you made a point on this shaft, it would save a lot of time and math later on to center the cutter on the blank. Just a thought.
Will tightening the two nuts on the ends of the shaft put to much thrust on the roll pin and set screw ? Any give in those will cause the shaft to lock up and unable to rotate. Leaving the nuts not fully tightened will allow the sample and the new blank being cut to rotate. I hope I am wrong.
We're does a person get those tool holders and bits ...thks again for the content I will be making 1 of those this summer when I get moved into my new shop ...
The reason for the more complicated methods and drawing of the shafts and holder, was to insure concentricity of the gear blank as the teeth are being cut .... your method does NOT insure that concentricity, but am sure you will show us by testing the runout of both the exterior of the blank, and also on the face of the blank . Rather than grinding the shaft for that insurance, I would have bored and set a bearing in each end of the holder, and turned the steps on the shaft for bearing fit, gear bores fit, and thread diameters, all in a single setup, thus insuring concentricity that is needed for any high speed gearing . . cannot wait to see the indicator runout test ....no cheating!
yes and no, I'd say. I would have used a ground rod, like drill rod. Then the collar could have been face cut to be true to the shaft. Lastly, how true does this need to be? Your cutting gears using an old lathe. I don't think these parts will wind up super precise no matter what you do using this setup. This isn't quite a new Pfauter.... Most folks over-tolerance stuff...
@@67L-88 I agree completely, but in a teaching session, it needs to be discussed so a student doesn't apply these methods to build wood or metalworking spindle
Thanks Mr. Pete for the Video. I really like you thinking on the modification.
Drives me a little crazy. You provide such sensible tips, I get mad at myself for not thinking of them myself. Thank goodness your out there so I can get a little smarter.
Your wisdom is incredible. I enjoyed the video, eagerly waiting for the last part. Big Thank You Mr. Pete.
Glad you enjoyed it
The tool is looking good. the extra hole to hold the shaft to remove the nuts was a great idea.Thanks
I always love your instructional videos Mr. Pete.
Looking forward to part 6. Thank You
Always great seeing your projects
That extra hole was a clever improvement.
Thanks MrPete. I enjoy watching all your videos. Thank you for all the time and work you put into making them.
Good Morning - great job on this project!
We give you thanks for all you do for us faceless admirers - you help us more than you will ever know - our respects to you dear sir.
You are so welcome
Mr Pete your forward thinking and deviation from drawings and years of experience and explanations is commendable !!
Yes Mr Pete we are enjoying it
Mr Pete, thanks for showing us to plan ahead with our projects. John
Mr Pete, I’m learning more from your videos than I will ever use. There are some very easy and practical ideas in this video, as usual.
Nice project, filmed like by a professional.
It still looks like fun doing one myself.
Thanks! 👍
Well I have to make a small gear for my old self loading boat rack for a tin boat. Uses a winch to spin the shaft. Do wind up the ropes to flip the boat on, one fiber gear broke, I’ll try this one day and make a new gear! Thanks
Can't wait to see you put this in action when it's complete. Great project!
Yes indeed. I want to see it in operation also.
Mr. Pete, Nice tool for gear cutting. Looks like it could be used on a Mill as well as a lathe with no modifications.
Just my idea too.
That was a great idea drilling a hole through the shaft for a locking pin should the need arise. I'm really looking forward to seeing it in action as it looks like a well thought out design.
Maybe cut different sized keyways around the shaft for whatever may be needed in the future?
I like your common sense deviations from the prints. Looking forward to the next part!
You took the idea right out of my head with the cross hole to hold the shaft to loosen the nuts. Great series, can't wait for the next installment.
Thanks 👍
As always the first channel I watch and I enjoy every minute. I just love watching a project from start to finish.
What a nice useful lathe attachment with an great upgrade option. Nice use of a great oil can and a beautiful scribe. 👍👍👍👍😀😀😀😀.
👍👍👍👍👍
Lyle - Another good, informative video. Comment on concentricity is technically correct. However, we're talking about home shop level construction and usage here and and not 'flight/space' quality hardware. Different skill levels and usage - plus as Clint Eaatwood said 'a man has to know his limitations'. In my home shop I sure don't hit the level I had to worry about as an engineering manager of flight and space hardware. I'm nowhere as good as the tool makers and technicians I traveled with in my working career. Keep up the great work.
Absolutely wonderful and can't wait to make mine !! I see so many uses and space saving for this !! Thanks !
Another fine job! Thanks for all your hard work and dedication Mr. Pete.
Thanks for watching
Great project, and I really like your teaching style.
Thank you very much!
Better to have a keyway and not need it than to need it and not have it!
lol
@bcbloc02 Would a keyway be prudent on both ends milled inline with one another allow for the blank gear to have it's teeth cut at the orientation as the original?
@@ianhelsbyservices Putting them in time to allow for an indexing reference certainly would not hurt.
Excellent video.See you in the next one.Thank you.
Hmmm.... Now I gotta make one just because.. Great work Mr Pete. Don
The through hole for the Tommy bar was a great idea Mr. Pete, along with using less material with the collar you pinned on. With the keyway you cut, could it be possible to make keys with one half fitting the shaft and the other half fitting the gear? It would be tedious but once made save them as part of the kit. Or make the keyway deeper so a half key would slide in containing a pin to fit the keyway on the gear. Great video series and I hope we get the opportunity to see you cut some gears with it. Thank you for sharing sir.
Joe
Thanx Mr Pete. This article will surely benefit guys like me and many others whom dont have access or own any device that makes indexing and gearcutting easier. This is direct and simple and you can be sure i will start making mine soon ive seen all videos up to now and find them relative to myself in terms of skill and availability of equipment to make the article this is definately on my to do list😅
What you made with the hole that goes through the housing and shaft for the screwdriver is called a Tommy hole and bar. It’s used for the same exact purpose you made yours for.
😄😄
Thank you Mr Peterson. Thought you make a locking button like on a angle grinder but this is more simple.
Great stuff. Thanks.
I enjoy single point threading, do it every chance I get. When I learned the Bruce Witham method it increased my confidence and accuracy exponentially.
👍👍
Thanks for the video
I'm thinking that some "washers" made of gasket material or something similar would augment the grip in lieu of a key or pin.
Interesting and informative as always Mr. Pete. Looking forward to the next installment.
I think maybe steps on the each end would make one shaft fit a lot of hole sizes. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I seems to me that you will not have enough tool clearance from the fixture when cutting small gears like you have fitted……. Does the “blank” end of the shaft need to be extended? I would love to see you cut that gear.
I'm enjoying watching the use of the diamond tool holder. I have considered getting one for myself. Curious to know if something similar would work on my Southbend Shaper. I have also considered building my own. gear cutting fixture for my little Atlas Mill. I have an indexing head but have not tried it on the Atlas. I may not have enough head room to use the Indexing head. This is certainly a great project for the Hobby Machinist. Thanks for bringing us along.
👍👍
I don't know if someone has already suggested this but, if you have only one index shaft but require different keyway widths for the different gears, you might want to consider cutting additional keyways of different widths in the index shaft, spacing them about 60 degrees from each other. This way the index shaft can be used with up to six different "keyway widths" gears.
@dennisa2839 Also, would it be prudent to add a matching keyway at the opposite (blank gear) end so that the keyway for the new part matches the old part?
A great project would be a cross drilling fixture; something good for a a variety of shaft sizes (unlike the ones you showed years and years ago). I'm hunting for a good design right now, so when I get the shop cleaned up I can make one.
What I find particularly interesting is to see you recognize and then overcome problems on the fly. The too narrow thread on the blueprint is something that I think would trip-up almost every beginner who tackled this project. Also, that perfect solution to removing a tight nut from both ends by drilling a hole and then using a pin (screwdriver!) to lock the shaft. Those kinds of common-sense and practical examples of emergent problem-solving is what we miss on so many handicraft videos.
One question I do have is in regards cutting thread. I think you prefer using a die to make a thread whereas Keith Rucker always cuts his threads using his lathe and its screw-thread advance feature. Is there a reason you choose one method over the other?
It goes without saying, but I will say it anyway--brilliant work as ever Mr. Pete!!!
Thank you for watching. I like to use a dye for threading most of the time. It takes 1 tenth the amount of time.
Excellent as usual.
Mr. Pete. Thanks for your excellent machinist mentorship ! When manually threading with either a tap or die, it is always important to break the chips by alternating forward and back. When you just drive the die all the way on with the lathe, aren't you risking thread damage by having no means to clear the chips?
Show us how to machine a knurled knob made of Aluminum , with a steel threaded shank pinned . Thank you Mr. Pete.
Very good again.
Lyle.
How about a 5/8" hole and a 3/4" counterbore for the colar you pinned to the shaft ?
I am still looking forward to you knurling that conical knob.
I just watched your gear cutting video where you used this fixture. I had a thought that if you made a point on this shaft, it would save a lot of time and math later on to center the cutter on the blank. Just a thought.
Did I miss something? Do you need to make a whole new shaft for every gear ID that you want to cut? Same question for the reference gear.
Will tightening the two nuts on the ends of the shaft put to much thrust on the roll pin and set screw
? Any give in those will cause the shaft to lock up and unable to rotate. Leaving the nuts not fully tightened will allow the sample and the new blank being cut to rotate. I hope I am wrong.
I wonder if making it to accept different size arbors to accept smaller gears to be replicated would be a good idea.
best vidya out there!
Thanks
We're does a person get those tool holders and bits ...thks again for the content I will be making 1 of those this summer when I get moved into my new shop ...
Mr. Pete mentions his diamond tool bit holder, but not where one is purchased Any help out there ?
There will be a complete video on these diamond tools in the future
Awesome. More to look forward to.
Eccentric Engineering in Melbourne Australia.
@@fnordfnordsson4385 Thank you for the information. Joe
12:18 Ok, Katie Scarlett!!! 😂🤣
Tighter than cramp
The reason for the more complicated methods and drawing of the shafts and holder, was to insure concentricity of the gear blank as the teeth are being cut .... your method does NOT insure that concentricity, but am sure you will show us by testing the runout of both the exterior of the blank, and also on the face of the blank . Rather than grinding the shaft for that insurance, I would have bored and set a bearing in each end of the holder, and turned the steps on the shaft for bearing fit, gear bores fit, and thread diameters, all in a single setup, thus insuring concentricity that is needed for any high speed gearing . . cannot wait to see the indicator runout test ....no cheating!
yes and no, I'd say. I would have used a ground rod, like drill rod. Then the collar could have been face cut to be true to the shaft. Lastly, how true does this need to be? Your cutting gears using an old lathe. I don't think these parts will wind up super precise no matter what you do using this setup. This isn't quite a new Pfauter.... Most folks over-tolerance stuff...
@@67L-88 I agree completely, but in a teaching session, it needs to be discussed so a student doesn't apply these methods to build wood or metalworking spindle
Roll up your sleeves when working on machines young man...
And then freeze to death
All that work no demo.im sad treacher
Use a Belleville washer on end!!!!
Thanks for being a great teacher, Pete. 🧰(It's a toolbox, you gotta look real close.) :)
Thanks for the video