Thanks for the video. It’s nice to see you use the lathe to drill and tap that hole. With the right attachments, the lathe can be the most versatile tool in the shop.
perfect timing, Mr Pete! i need to modify the tee nut for my SB 10 but needed to wait for my 2J to be serviced. Bridgeport is now all fixed and now with this awesome explainer we're ready to go! thanks a ton!!
Thank Mr. Pete, I have one to make for my lathe. Your video's are very useful. Thank you again for making these video, I know how much effort it take to do something like these. Thanks again.
Nice Video Mr Pete…. Your show and tell compound sure has seen some action! As always, thank you for sharing your time and many talents. All the best, Chuck
nice video. for those who don't have access to a milling machine, just get some 1/4 inch cold roll, cut and stack to make the T, solder together, then drill and tap.
That's a nugget of info I've been looking for. The "newer" SB 9's have 1/4" steps in the compound while my older 9 has 5/16 steps in the same place. All I have to do is wait for it and you cover a subject right close to what's on my mind. Thanks! Duane
Thanks Mr. Peterson for another great video! Although this is a pretty basic operation, I remember how much I struggled the first time I made one of these. Hopefully this will help some "Nooby" out there!
I use the a big tap wrench and let the handle sit on the carraige. Then turn the chuck with my left hand. PS you can use the aloris tool holder to cut a t-nut. Clamp blank in tool holder and clamp it with grub screws. Set height with the tool holder wheel. Chuck up an endmill. Line up carraige for DOC and lock it. Send cross slide over slowly to make cut
I’ve noticed most of the lantern tool posts don’t have T- nuts only a flat piece of steel with the bolster so I guess my question is a T-nut necessary. I’m not sure the quick change system would have any more stress than the original. I realize that’s what they send you and ask you to do but is it required. Just thinking out loud
sir, may i ask a question? i have met some machinists who insist all the screw hole in the t nut should be a blind hole. exactly as you explain the situation, an over tide squeeze will damage the dove tail on the machine. if the t nut material is thin, they say weld the screw on the t nut would be a better solution. would you comment on this issue?
I'm sure others might chime in, maybe even Mr. Pete, but I'll just tell you from what i know. Although I've never seen a t nut with a blind hole (I'm sure they do exist though), most t nuts will have a through hole but when tapped they won't let the tap run all the way through. They'll only run a bit of the tapered end of the tap out the bottom hole and stop there for the exact purpose I'm sure some are made with blind holes like you mentioned and what Mr. Pete mentioned in his video which is specifically to avoid being able to run the stud through the bottom of the t nut and force it into the mill table or lathe which can damage things if over tightened as it acts kind of like a jack.
@SweetTooth i believe you probably saw it before, t bolts instead of t nuts were used when fixing material on the milling machine table. technically, it is different, but the idea is same. the machinists i mentioned are coming from a oem tablesaw manufacturer here in asia. they have some issues their customer over tide the t nuts, jack and damage the rail on the table. that's some expensive $$$ to fix. i believe TE CO do have a specific product of blind hole t nuts and t bolts? but according to that machinist from tablesaw company, he said people don't like the idea and think using t bolts is cheap. this is the point that makes me confused.
@@luderickwong yeah. I don't know why they wouldn't like t bolts. I have several sizes of t bolts and i love them since it skips needing to threat a stud into a t nut and it also saves from worrying about the stud going though the t nut and damaging the table. The only reason i could see maybe why some people prefer t nuts instead of t bolts is because with t bolts, you're stuck with specific stud sizes where t nuts you can use any stud size or screw length you want... But I'm sure blind hole t nuts like you mentioned must exist. Maybe te-co sells them like you said. I'm sure you could find them from certain retailers.
Mr Pete.. Thanks for this video! Just bought myself a quick change tool post and it has an oversized t-nut provided in this kit! Question, how would mill this t-nut to fit my 1935 south bend 9C without a mill? Sorry for the new be questions? lol
You do not really need a tee nut. Consider just using a piece of steel that will fit in the lower part of your compound slot. Since it is a fine thread, you do not need all that much engagement.
Mr. Peterson I believe you mentioned in one of your videos that you were going to do one on the "Dimond Tool Holder". I would be very interested in your evaluation of these tools. They seem to be pretty expensive, are they worth the money? Thanks for your many videos..............
Mr. Pete. Mr. Pete. Aren't you using your adjustable wrench backwards???😮 Some T nuts have deformed thread at the bottom of tapped hole which helps prevent the protrusion concern and caution that you gave us. Commercial T nuts are hardened. I assume that this is to prevent wear. Infrequent tool post changes don't require this feature. My first import tool post T nut was hardened. I couldn't machine it to fit my lathe with my HSS tooling. I opted to machine it at work. 😅
I just did a T nut for my lathe on my last video and I did a climb cut as well but one of my viewers said I should’ve done a conventional cut because I could’ve broken the end mill. Can you explain why you would or would not do a climb cut? I had been under the impression a climb cut was just fine, and Joe Pie does climb cuts all the time.
It depends on how rigid your machine is! A climb cut will pull the work into the cutter, exerting large forces as a result. If any part of your mill flexes, it can cause the cutter to dig in suddenly and start breaking things. Have you noticed that the hand wheel gets “light” as you turn it when climb cutting? That’s the force of the cut trying to advance the work faster than you are intending. Climb cutting is OK on a rigid setup like Joe Pi has, and can produce a very fine finish, but be very careful on a light duty mini-mill or a mill/drill setup. The frame may not have enough rigidity to withstand the forces involved.
@@DavidWilliams-rn6uq Its a bridgeport. The roughing mill I used went through the cuts like the steel was soft butter and I ran the power auto feed on it. I guess I need to be careful with what I'm doing.
Gotcha - you are fine, then. Your BP setup should be just as capable as Joe Pi’s machine. I think most people are assuming hobby mills are the little ones.
@@DavidWilliams-rn6uq Yeah Id go nuts with hobby machines. I'm trying to get a business going as well. One of my subs watched my video making my T nut last week and I was climb milling and he said I was lucking I didn't break the end mill. I've watched a bunch of videos on it so I think I got it figured out. Everything turned out ok and I had no issues milling the T nut. 😀😃😄😁👌
A hacksaw and a file, maybe? It will be ugly, but you could use it to clamp the tool post temporarily to use it to do the trick another commenter mentioned. Clamp the stock in the tool post, put a mill in the Chuck, and you have a crude milling attachment.
Interesting, I’ve just gone through every single page in my copy of HTRAL and that chart is decidedly NOT included in my copy of the book. That, or i am truly blind.
Thanks for the video. It’s nice to see you use the lathe to drill and tap that hole. With the right attachments, the lathe can be the most versatile tool in the shop.
You bet
Great video, Mr Pete! I've always admire the lathe work and it is always good to have someone like you to show us the ropes...
Glad you enjoyed it
perfect timing, Mr Pete! i need to modify the tee nut for my SB 10 but needed to wait for my 2J to be serviced. Bridgeport is now all fixed and now with this awesome explainer we're ready to go! thanks a ton!!
👍👍
Thank Mr. Pete, I have one to make for my lathe. Your video's are very useful. Thank you again for making these video, I know how much effort it take to do something like these. Thanks again.
👍👍
Keep them coming Mr. Pete I am learning so much from watching you.
I trust you and yours will have a blessed Easter, Mr Pete. Greetings from down under.
Great video that’s exactly the next thing I have to do! Thanks, Mr. P
always worth the break for time with MR. Pete
👍
Nice Video Mr Pete…. Your show and tell compound sure has seen some action! As always, thank you for sharing your time and many talents. All the best, Chuck
😄😄😄
According to Jim Farley, there’s going to be some big changes at Ford motor. Lots of layoffs.
Thanks again Mr Pete. Learning every time I watch one of your videos.
Glad to hear it
nice video. for those who don't have access to a milling machine, just get some 1/4 inch cold roll, cut and stack to make the T, solder together, then drill and tap.
Thanks for this mate, I love these chip making films.
Glad you like them!
That's a nugget of info I've been looking for. The "newer" SB 9's have 1/4" steps in the compound while my older 9 has 5/16 steps in the same place.
All I have to do is wait for it and you cover a subject right close to what's on my mind. Thanks! Duane
👍👍
I enjoy all of your videos mr. Pete I look forward to them
Good Morning Mr Pete!!!
The Tennessee Mole Man
👍🇺🇸🍊🍊🍊
Thanks Mr. Peterson for another great video! Although this is a pretty basic operation, I remember how much I struggled the first time I made one of these. Hopefully this will help some "Nooby" out there!
👍👍👍
Good one Mr. Pete....Enjoyed Your weather must be warming up...studio G back in action 👍
ATB...Dean
Yes, it is warming up a little bit an Illinois. But one day it’s hot and the next day it’s cold.
Thanks Mr Pete enjoy your time effort u put in these videos
Thanks
Mr. Pete, Thanks again for a very informative video.
👍👍
I use the a big tap wrench and let the handle sit on the carraige. Then turn the chuck with my left hand.
PS you can use the aloris tool holder to cut a t-nut. Clamp blank in tool holder and clamp it with grub screws. Set height with the tool holder wheel. Chuck up an endmill. Line up carraige for DOC and lock it. Send cross slide over slowly to make cut
Great idea, thanks. Potential future video.
The nut you want to machine is needed to attach the toolpost to the compound.
Great video as always I recently made one for my Lathe to. I thought everybody had a Bridgeport Milling Machine at home.
👍👍
It´s a very good video,mrpete.Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Sounds like you are feeling good.
I am!
Thanks for sharing @Mr Pete. Great project. I was concerned that you threaded all the way through the T-Nut until I saw the stud.
😄
I’ve noticed most of the lantern tool posts don’t have T- nuts only a flat piece of steel with the bolster so I guess my question is a T-nut necessary. I’m not sure the quick change system would have any more stress than the original. I realize that’s what they send you and ask you to do but is it required. Just thinking out loud
It is the length of thread engagement that is important
sir, may i ask a question? i have met some machinists who insist all the screw hole in the t nut should be a blind hole. exactly as you explain the situation, an over tide squeeze will damage the dove tail on the machine. if the t nut material is thin, they say weld the screw on the t nut would be a better solution. would you comment on this issue?
I'm sure others might chime in, maybe even Mr. Pete, but I'll just tell you from what i know.
Although I've never seen a t nut with a blind hole (I'm sure they do exist though), most t nuts will have a through hole but when tapped they won't let the tap run all the way through. They'll only run a bit of the tapered end of the tap out the bottom hole and stop there for the exact purpose I'm sure some are made with blind holes like you mentioned and what Mr. Pete mentioned in his video which is specifically to avoid being able to run the stud through the bottom of the t nut and force it into the mill table or lathe which can damage things if over tightened as it acts kind of like a jack.
@SweetTooth i believe you probably saw it before, t bolts instead of t nuts were used when fixing material on the milling machine table. technically, it is different, but the idea is same. the machinists i mentioned are coming from a oem tablesaw manufacturer here in asia. they have some issues their customer over tide the t nuts, jack and damage the rail on the table. that's some expensive $$$ to fix. i believe TE CO do have a specific product of blind hole t nuts and t bolts? but according to that machinist from tablesaw company, he said people don't like the idea and think using t bolts is cheap. this is the point that makes me confused.
@@luderickwong yeah. I don't know why they wouldn't like t bolts. I have several sizes of t bolts and i love them since it skips needing to threat a stud into a t nut and it also saves from worrying about the stud going though the t nut and damaging the table. The only reason i could see maybe why some people prefer t nuts instead of t bolts is because with t bolts, you're stuck with specific stud sizes where t nuts you can use any stud size or screw length you want...
But I'm sure blind hole t nuts like you mentioned must exist. Maybe te-co sells them like you said. I'm sure you could find them from certain retailers.
Mr Pete.. Thanks for this video! Just bought myself a quick change tool post and it has an oversized t-nut provided in this kit! Question, how would mill this t-nut to fit my 1935 south bend 9C without a mill? Sorry for the new be questions? lol
You do not really need a tee nut.
Consider just using a piece of steel that will fit in the lower part of your compound slot. Since it is a fine thread, you do not need all that much engagement.
Thanks, pete, you make everything eàs6!
👍👍
It would have been neat to see you make the whole t-nut on the SB. You have a milling attachment for it, don't you?
MJ
Nicely done. How many of those T-Nuts have you made?
A lot
@@mrpete222 LOL
Mr. Peterson
I believe you mentioned in one of your videos that you were going to do one on the "Dimond Tool Holder". I would be very interested in your evaluation of these tools. They seem to be pretty expensive, are they worth the money?
Thanks for your many videos..............
Sorry, I have not made that video yet, but I intend to. I actually love those diamond tool holders and think they are well worth it.
I have to do the same exact thing for my new lathe.
Mr. Pete. Mr. Pete. Aren't you using your adjustable wrench backwards???😮
Some T nuts have deformed thread at the bottom of tapped hole which helps prevent the protrusion concern and caution that you gave us. Commercial T nuts are hardened. I assume that this is to prevent wear. Infrequent tool post changes don't require this feature. My first import tool post T nut was hardened. I couldn't machine it to fit my lathe with my HSS tooling. I opted to machine it at work. 😅
I noticed the lots of the import tee nuts are staked at the bottom
Thanks for the video,I'm gonna stick to my !intern tool post cause I've got 2 cigar boxes full of mostly ground high speed🤗🤗😎
I have to admit, I still love to use high-speed, steel tool, bits same as you
My machinist dad would scold me every time I held and turned his adjustable wrench backward like you did on that tap.
I just did a T nut for my lathe on my last video and I did a climb cut as well but one of my viewers said I should’ve done a conventional cut because I could’ve broken the end mill. Can you explain why you would or would not do a climb cut? I had been under the impression a climb cut was just fine, and Joe Pie does climb cuts all the time.
It depends on how rigid your machine is! A climb cut will pull the work into the cutter, exerting large forces as a result. If any part of your mill flexes, it can cause the cutter to dig in suddenly and start breaking things.
Have you noticed that the hand wheel gets “light” as you turn it when climb cutting? That’s the force of the cut trying to advance the work faster than you are intending.
Climb cutting is OK on a rigid setup like Joe Pi has, and can produce a very fine finish, but be very careful on a light duty mini-mill or a mill/drill setup. The frame may not have enough rigidity to withstand the forces involved.
@@DavidWilliams-rn6uq Its a bridgeport. The roughing mill I used went through the cuts like the steel was soft butter and I ran the power auto feed on it. I guess I need to be careful with what I'm doing.
Gotcha - you are fine, then. Your BP setup should be just as capable as Joe Pi’s machine. I think most people are assuming hobby mills are the little ones.
@@DavidWilliams-rn6uq Yeah Id go nuts with hobby machines. I'm trying to get a business going as well. One of my subs watched my video making my T nut last week and I was climb milling and he said I was lucking I didn't break the end mill. I've watched a bunch of videos on it so I think I got it figured out. Everything turned out ok and I had no issues milling the T nut. 😀😃😄😁👌
Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
I don't have a milling machine, so I just turned it to size in the lathe and ignored the T part. It's just a block, but it works.
Yes, many people do that it shows that you have a shorter length of thread engagement
Can you repair that damaged compound top with weld or is it made from cast iron?
Cast iron
Making a T nut is easy, especially if you have a mill. I would like to make one of those tool posts too but I have no reference.
Thank you Sir.
How would one go about fixing that compound
You won’t fix it, it is scrap metal
How do I mill out those corners if I don’t have a mill?
A hacksaw and a file, maybe? It will be ugly, but you could use it to clamp the tool post temporarily to use it to do the trick another commenter mentioned. Clamp the stock in the tool post, put a mill in the Chuck, and you have a crude milling attachment.
salut mr.pete
je les fabriquer un pour mon atlas 10''
je pré fer aloris que la chandelle p auto
merci pour tout mrpete222
*grin* but Mr. Pete I don't have a Starrett center finder !!! I shot milk out my nose with your "I don't have a mill". Thanks for that :)
😄😄
Thanks again
Interesting, I’ve just gone through every single page in my copy of HTRAL and that chart is decidedly NOT included in my copy of the book. That, or i am truly blind.
Quite well. 👍👍
Very helpful thank you
👍👍👍
That compound must have come out of a school machine.
lol