Insulating A Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2020
- We started the insulating by mounting some floor batons to provide the structure in between which we put EPS board, we also used EPS in the ceiling to maximise head room and also used some in the walls followed up by recycled plastic bottle insulation in the walls and reflectix or double bubble foil insulation as a vapour barrier.
Camera Kit Used Throughout My Series:
Panasonic GH5
Olympus M.ZUIKO 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6
DJI Phantom 4 Pro +
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Absolutely first class job, one of the best insulated vans I’ve seen. Great video guys. Sound advice!
If Greg is applauding these guys then I will lol
Well Greg this means a lot! Thanks so much!
It is so easy converting a sprinter for someone else, they decide what they want and what goes where. It is literally the hardest thing about a van build is the layout.
Yeah making sure you nail the layout for yourself is probably the most time wasting part of anyones conversion
Watching the insulation go through the saw is mesmerising.
Enjoyed watching this video
Thanks. I don't want to do it myself but still great to see the work that goes into it
Brilliant love this...👍
I’m a new subscriber and really enjoying this build so far. Thank you.
thanks for subbing!
yay good one
we used lead flashing which is self adhesive on the large panels, it worked out cheaper
@Yoz Travels Never had that problem in my van. I tried moving a pad once just days after sticking it to cut out my ceiling fan no way its coming off. Once its gone thru a summer its baked on for life. Even if a pad came off its trapped behind PIR boards so no going any where.
Not much worries about kickback on the table saw cutting that stuff.
haha indeed
Good idea with the cheaper foam, I have wondered if that celotex stuff is a bit of an over kill sometimes what with the two sides of foil covering it, not sure its necessary when you have vapour barriers, ply wood and the final floor layer.
The PIR board is definitely a better insulator but as mentioned we had a budget and it will be more than adequate for this van
Thanks for this vid - perfect timing! I'm re-converting a part-converted van which had used eps on the floor but without any battens! Some great tips here. When's part 2??? 😁
in about 20 minutes haha
Is it me or does this lad look and sound like Will young if not I THINK ID BETTER LEAVE RIGHT NOW great job by the way 👍😂
oh god, this is not the first time someone mentioned this. I think ID better leave right now
Hue, I only paid £12 for the 25mm and £22 for the 50mm from Jewsons. Always good to shop around, I paid nearly the same for the u-therm insolation to go over it all for the vapour barrier 😐 Looking good so far👍
Hi Chris, we looked in many builders merchants and couldn't find a price that low. I will definitely check Jewsons out cheers for the recommendation!
I would never use those foam boards to save a couple of quid when Kingspan or unbranded PIR sheets £11.00 for 25mm . Cuts easy with a stanley knife. Its also worth paying £20 for a box of Stick Pins. Works out cheaper than cans of foam and glue These are super strong sticky metal spikes for the ceiling boards so you just push the boards up. No need for props or loads of glue and hope it doesn't all come crashing down by morning.
For sound deadening use a roll of roof flashing cut into squares. Its incredibly dense sticky rubber type stuff and 1/4 the price of acoustic pads.
When you laid those batons ns on the floor you really should have put extra bits in 90 degrees around the wheel arches. Later you find out you got saggy bits and no where to fix things properly like batteries, water tanks, gas cupboards in the garage.
How and where are your finding 25mm PIR board for £11?
In regards the batons around the wheel arch that is a good point but those areas were under the bed in areas that will never have heavy loads on and with the 300mm baton spacing with the ply floor and then the LVT floor they wont sag
All that work and ur only saving 16 a sheet anyway great channel
May seem like a little but when you save a little here and there over the build it adds up quickly. Plus we tried to save some money without massive reductions in quality
great stuff but why not use a stanley blade to cut ?
Was much faster and more accurate for us to cut the insulation with the saws
Hey, great video. We're converting a Sprinter LWB at the moment. What wood did you use for the floor batons?
Awesome, good luck with the build! We used roofing battens, but you can also used just a plaing sawn timber, just try to make sure its the same height off the floor as the insulation board
I wonder about the need for sound deadening, does it make much difference when the van is being insulated and then wood panelled? Just curious.
its makes a big difference. Just buy a roll of roof flashing instead its basically the same thing but 1/4 price. One roll covered all panels in my van with a decent size pad in each.
Hi Errol, I honestly was on the fence before but now I am a convert! makes a difference for sure. The only time you don't need it is when you get the van spray foam insulated in closed cell PU foam
Just any old screws to drill the plywood into the van? And do you complete the electrics post insulation and before cladding, and just have the electric wiring running behind all the cladding? (i.e. an electric fan and spotlights) Thanks for your help :)
Hi Joss, to attach the ply into the steel ribs of the van you will need self tapping screws that you pre drill or even better self drilling and tapping screws. I use these quite a bit:
www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-self-drilling-low-profile-wafer-screws-4-8-x-22-x-200-pack/7483H?tc=GT7&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqdP9BRDVARIsAGSZ8AmSmKpFHqDQTpX4fA_IkZzIKEqIiMuycl_QqyzSROATX4ukrzzzVgYaAuPOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
So for me when laying the cables if you can pre plan where the cables will need to go/come out of the wall then thats half the battle. to get them there you can either run them cleverly through the van through conduit that runs along edges and corners that you can't see or get bashed by gear and people. Or you can insulate then run conduit over the top but before the vapour barrier in which the cables go and have the cables come out the wall at strategic points. Hope this helps
@@HughTube hi man, thanks a lot for that info, I've been trying to piece together how people do it. It's been a big help :) your UA-cam videos are v informative, so thank you!
What kind of adhesive do you use to stick the batons down to the floor of the van with please?
I would recommend sikalfex 522
So are you going to use the silver insulation as a water barrier - spilled water ? or plastic under floor boards ? .. or nothing? Smart move to use "Rattle trap" sound dampening.
To be honest it will help with that but the underlay we fitted also acted as a waterprrof layer under the floor so we went a bit over kill haha
Just thought I’d mention celotex let’s off toxic gasses
Great stuff. Is that a high top van? Lwb?
Yes and yes!
Just wondering, is there an issue with screwing through the Vapour barrier to fasten floor down?
no this should be fine as it should be pinning the vapour barrier between itself and the subfloor very tightly creating basically an air tight seal
@@HughTube ok, yeh that makes sense. Thanks mate, and great work. Thanks
isnt that polystrene sheeting very flammable though ?
It is considered flammable but it is behind a vapour barrier and there are no wires running through it so it is fine
Do you have to insulate the van? What if u were just using it as a mobile barber shop to cut hair
if you're not sleeping in it then you don't need to insulate your van. If you keep your kit in the van over night though I would recommend a rainproof vent to allow air flow. this will help reduce moisture in the air and condensation forming. any steel that isn't coated or stainless will be more prone to rust like some high carbon scissors or blades in shavers especially straight razors which are high carbon and very prone to rust.
👍
high Hugh, hope your doing well! great video! great channel. I'm also doing a sprinter. when you insulated, what did you do with the factory fit wire loom covering, that runs along the the van (think that's the name) will it just remain in place, not sure what to do with it in mine? Also would be wicked if you ever decided to do a video about hiding wiring if its done outside the insulation :). all the best mate
Cheers matey! we wrapped it in automotive carpet to hide the metal and make it more uniform.
@@HughTube thanks dude!
I'd never use chemically pressure treated timber in an enclosed space like the living area of a van.
It isn't an issue as it is divided off from the living area by the vapour barrier.
@@HughTube You know as well as I do that vapour barriers are never 100% sealed. I wouldn't put myself at such risk, let alone a paying customer.
agree to disagree
@gaz trent She's obviously read it somewhere and regurgitated the misinformation lets hope she doesn't read up on fire retardant material and foam or we will never hear the last of it
You said customers van, so you doing it as a business now?
Hi Malcolm, yes but not just solely camper vans
@@HughTube I'll mention you on some van build pages on fb then what area are you located? some people ask for particular areas?
Cardboard box packing waste of time for insulation.
Its likely more dense than the packing stuff, its also used in house cavities.
I would disagree, it is an effective insulator
Did you just glue the wood frame to the floor? I'm buying a long wheelbase in the next few months and need to learn all about insulation 👍