I just ordered a whole lot of AK interactive stuff, and abteilung 502 paints thanks to you. I never really wanted to paint the "clean" schemes that Warhammer usually portrays, I fkn love your style man.
My painting has dramatically increased, as has my motivation having learned from your channel. So helpful and inspirational, thank so much, would love to see some more fundamentals with more natural pieces!
Since getting back into the 40k world, nothing has clicked in terms of feel or what speaks to my taste in painting minis and terrain. Your work is a revelation.
@@vampireslayera mix the pigment in thinner and paint it on like paint then the thinner dries and its dry pigment again. i have some videos on it if ya wanna check out
Not only are your tutorials superb, but thanks to you I now use the word "chunder" in conversation as often as I can. Thank you for expanding my painting knowledge and vocabulary!
I found these tutorials last year right when I was getting into painting and holy shit did it ever help me find a style I like. Thank you so much for exposing me to alternative miniature styles! It's helped me improve my painting SO much : , )
Short but sweet! I've been using Airbrush thinner with my pigments lately, but more for detailed work like on like boots and armor panels at the base of the model. Mix the thinner + pigment, brush it in. Once the thinner dries it seems to stay stuck pretty good. Also have decent luck using the lusterless line of varnishes if you need to varnish, maintains the powder effect (but again, in small applications). Need to try it on terrain panels/larger applications.
From one painter to another, allow me to offer up some words of wisdom: it takes (and wastes...) a lot more of your own time to ape another painter's style than it does to understand the thought processes, learn the essentials of their technique, and incorporate it, with all of your other learned lessons, into your own style... Look at real-life references, and consider how you could achieve that look with your available tools and paints... Play with odd approaches, materials, and techniques... At the end of the day, all art is the theft of ideas, good art just gets more granular and diverse about where it's stealing from.
Did you say "where pipes go into book bags"? lol, got an image of some teenage mechanicum kid going to classes 🤖😉 That aside, just ordered all the enamel washes you recommended plus a handful of Abteilung 502 paints as well as some Ad Mech models to get my new army started. Very very excited to start this and if it goes well, this just might be the shot in the arm I need to get back to painting every day like I had been.
Absolutely love your tutorials. I wanted to ask, is there a reason to mix your own oil wash over using one of AK's pre-mixed enamel washes? Dark Brown seems very versatile as an all-over unifying wash, but are enamels unsuitable for this?
For some reason I find Vallejo pigments harder to use (dry) than MIG or AK pigments. They don’t seem to adhere as well off my brush - almost like the granules aren’t as fine. Weird.
At what point in the painting process would you apply freehand for decals, etc? I want to add some scriptures and runes on my Word Bearers but am unsure if they should be applied before or after weathering or anything else.
Great vid. Question: are you wearing a respirator when applying enamel colors by brush and/or using white spirit? Just wondering if that is necessary...
Zatcaskagoon Miniatures so...how bad is it to use enamels/white spirit in a not too well ventilated room for a couple of hours? Didn’t feel dizzy or something...only used with brush, not airbrush...
So, how is the pigment holding onto the model during gameplay? I don't think 'just hold it by the base' really covers it for regular play. Or is this tutorial specifically only about shelf models?
Ask yourself, how do you handle a minature? Pick it up by the head, shoulders, weapon or by the rim of the base? Do you ever grab it by the legs or really touch the surface of the base often?
@@GrimdarkCompendium I'd say it varies from model to model, tanks you might touch all over, a small Guardsman maybe the base and/or head. But I see your point
My challenge with pigments is just that the dust gets everywhere if you don't fix them. I of course totally agree that they do not look as good if you fix them. They most certainly lose that dry look.
I’ve been following your guide for the Sacred Rose sisters of battle and been having trouble with the step where you use pigments on the robes and wondered if you could help me figure out what I’m doing wrong? I try to apply the pigment heavily to the raised areas I want to ‘highlight’ but the pigments tend to end up migrating into the folds of the cloak and collecting, which is the made worse when I try to work it in to the folds more as you direct on the video. It almost feels like the pigments are clumped together too big to stay on the raised areas. For what it’s worth I’m using the same pigment as you did. Any ideas?
Just an idea, but maybe apply a thin layer of fixer or Vallejo airbrush thinner at the raised areas so the weathering powder sticks there, cleaning up any excess with a bit of solvent and q-tip / pinch off a cotton ball where necessary...
Pigment powders are a mystery to me, if they are not sealed in, won't they just fall off or rub off when the model is touched or moved about as a play piece?
@@catalyst1051 yes, it CAN fall off a little bit, but the amount depends on how much pigment and how thick and also how you handle the miniature after. Just like an unvarnished mini can chip just by touching it, pigments, if touched directly, will rub off slightly.
They're fantastic unless the model will be handled a lot such as gaming. It's not so much that they'll fall off but they will endlessly rub off on your fingers, it doesn't really ruin the effect on the model but it's unpleasant to get pigment on your fingers when you're having a game. No amount of careful handling seems to avoid it totally. And a tiny bit on your fingers will go a long way! I still use them on gaming models but only sealed in with varnish or lots of fixer, it ruins the dry effect and makes them look muddy instead. I wouldn't hesitate to use them unsealed on a display model though.
Why do you protect your latest paint contest text from copying on your website? Everyone, who wants to share it in local community groups (and translate it in my case) should literally reprint it ((
0:14 - Introduction
1:12 - Using Agrellan Earth
2:50 - Using Vallejo Thick Mud
4:29 - Priming
5:16 - Pigment Powder application
8:22 - Using the Airbrush to reduce pigment powder
8:36 - Q-tip & mineral spirits refinement
I just ordered a whole lot of AK interactive stuff, and abteilung 502 paints thanks to you. I never really wanted to paint the "clean" schemes that Warhammer usually portrays, I fkn love your style man.
My painting has dramatically increased, as has my motivation having learned from your channel. So helpful and inspirational, thank so much, would love to see some more fundamentals with more natural pieces!
Thank you! I think I'll do a few more videos, one for skin at the least.
Since getting back into the 40k world, nothing has clicked in terms of feel or what speaks to my taste in painting minis and terrain. Your work is a revelation.
Ty ty. I appreciate you.
if you use vallejo airbrush thinner you can apply the dry pigment wet and they will look completely dry once the thinner dries.
as in mix it with the thinner, or put the thinner on then the pigment?
@@vampireslayera mix the pigment in thinner and paint it on like paint then the thinner dries and its dry pigment again. i have some videos on it if ya wanna check out
@@redbeardboss I want to see these videos please
@@eddystansberry6655 they are.on my channel but just mix the pigment with the thinner and paint it on
Not only are your tutorials superb, but thanks to you I now use the word "chunder" in conversation as often as I can. Thank you for expanding my painting knowledge and vocabulary!
Haha
I found these tutorials last year right when I was getting into painting and holy shit did it ever help me find a style I like. Thank you so much for exposing me to alternative miniature styles! It's helped me improve my painting SO much : , )
Short but sweet!
I've been using Airbrush thinner with my pigments lately, but more for detailed work like on like boots and armor panels at the base of the model. Mix the thinner + pigment, brush it in. Once the thinner dries it seems to stay stuck pretty good. Also have decent luck using the lusterless line of varnishes if you need to varnish, maintains the powder effect (but again, in small applications). Need to try it on terrain panels/larger applications.
Really want to try out pigments on some of my models. Thanks for the tutorial
They are awesome, you should!
Lovely piece thanks for the tips
Amazing magician is back with another master class ...hope you and family are well n safe..not the zombie apocalypse we were expecting but...hey..😊👍
I appreciate you.
Don't know if you've tried it, but using enamel thinner as a pigment fixer retains the dusty look very well.
Awesome, thank you.
Love your style man, going to try it out on my sector mechanicus set.
You’re just so good. I love your style. I try to replicate it but I don’t have your skills. Still, you are an inspiration, thank you.
From one painter to another, allow me to offer up some words of wisdom: it takes (and wastes...) a lot more of your own time to ape another painter's style than it does to understand the thought processes, learn the essentials of their technique, and incorporate it, with all of your other learned lessons, into your own style... Look at real-life references, and consider how you could achieve that look with your available tools and paints... Play with odd approaches, materials, and techniques...
At the end of the day, all art is the theft of ideas, good art just gets more granular and diverse about where it's stealing from.
Absolutely amazing! Thank you very much!
Did you say "where pipes go into book bags"? lol, got an image of some teenage mechanicum kid going to classes 🤖😉
That aside, just ordered all the enamel washes you recommended plus a handful of Abteilung 502 paints as well as some Ad Mech models to get my new army started. Very very excited to start this and if it goes well, this just might be the shot in the arm I need to get back to painting every day like I had been.
How do you do fine detail with 🐖 mint powders? I know a smaller brush will help but I want fine dusty detail on small models boots n such.
How would you go about painting a red cloth?
Absolutely love your tutorials.
I wanted to ask, is there a reason to mix your own oil wash over using one of AK's pre-mixed enamel washes? Dark Brown seems very versatile as an all-over unifying wash, but are enamels unsuitable for this?
For some reason I find Vallejo pigments harder to use (dry) than MIG or AK pigments. They don’t seem to adhere as well off my brush - almost like the granules aren’t as fine. Weird.
At what point in the painting process would you apply freehand for decals, etc? I want to add some scriptures and runes on my Word Bearers but am unsure if they should be applied before or after weathering or anything else.
Great vid. Question: are you wearing a respirator when applying enamel colors by brush and/or using white spirit? Just wondering if that is necessary...
Yes. Use one
@@GrimdarkCompendium Any chance of a gear/workstation setup tutorial? If you have one and I missed it apologies in advance!
@@jason2089 I do not but that is a good idea.
Zatcaskagoon Miniatures so...how bad is it to use enamels/white spirit in a not too well ventilated room for a couple of hours? Didn’t feel dizzy or something...only used with brush, not airbrush...
@@michaelinOZ should be alright with a brush. If you start spraying please use a respirator.
So, how is the pigment holding onto the model during gameplay? I don't think 'just hold it by the base' really covers it for regular play. Or is this tutorial specifically only about shelf models?
If you dont like using any fixers or sealants for your pigment powders, how do you keep them there yourself if you plan to handle the model a lot?
Ask yourself, how do you handle a minature? Pick it up by the head, shoulders, weapon or by the rim of the base? Do you ever grab it by the legs or really touch the surface of the base often?
@@GrimdarkCompendium I'd say it varies from model to model, tanks you might touch all over, a small Guardsman maybe the base and/or head. But I see your point
My challenge with pigments is just that the dust gets everywhere if you don't fix them. I of course totally agree that they do not look as good if you fix them. They most certainly lose that dry look.
Anyone knows how much time does it take to dry after the reductive technic applied onto the streaking grime?
Thank you so much for your tutorials, patreon it will be, you deserve it. How do you fix the pigments then when you are finished?
The thick mud looked white?
I’ve been following your guide for the Sacred Rose sisters of battle and been having trouble with the step where you use pigments on the robes and wondered if you could help me figure out what I’m doing wrong?
I try to apply the pigment heavily to the raised areas I want to ‘highlight’ but the pigments tend to end up migrating into the folds of the cloak and collecting, which is the made worse when I try to work it in to the folds more as you direct on the video. It almost feels like the pigments are clumped together too big to stay on the raised areas. For what it’s worth I’m using the same pigment as you did. Any ideas?
Just an idea, but maybe apply a thin layer of fixer or Vallejo airbrush thinner at the raised areas so the weathering powder sticks there, cleaning up any excess with a bit of solvent and q-tip / pinch off a cotton ball where necessary...
What does 'chunder' mean in the US? In the UK it means vomit.
Haha same. I mean it in terms as more of a texture than the literal term.
@@GrimdarkCompendium haha gross!
Pigment powders are a mystery to me, if they are not sealed in, won't they just fall off or rub off when the model is touched or moved about as a play piece?
i also have this some thought process.. anybody care to clarify for Brown and I?
@@catalyst1051 yes, it CAN fall off a little bit, but the amount depends on how much pigment and how thick and also how you handle the miniature after. Just like an unvarnished mini can chip just by touching it, pigments, if touched directly, will rub off slightly.
They're fantastic unless the model will be handled a lot such as gaming. It's not so much that they'll fall off but they will endlessly rub off on your fingers, it doesn't really ruin the effect on the model but it's unpleasant to get pigment on your fingers when you're having a game. No amount of careful handling seems to avoid it totally. And a tiny bit on your fingers will go a long way!
I still use them on gaming models but only sealed in with varnish or lots of fixer, it ruins the dry effect and makes them look muddy instead. I wouldn't hesitate to use them unsealed on a display model though.
Dope asf
Neat
neato!
Thumbs up for brazenly leaving your logo up for a long time to hit that 10 minute mark.
Why do you protect your latest paint contest text from copying on your website? Everyone, who wants to share it in local community groups (and translate it in my case) should literally reprint it ((
BTW I really adore your content
Chunder means throwing up. A Tactical Chunder is making yourself throw up so you can drink more alcohol.
Haha. I know.. sometimes I just say weird shit.
: )