@@The.LastMelon Well I had to go out and get groceries now and then, we can't get delivery and apparently bathrobes "Aren't appropriate" in my local supermarket.
Hey! I'm from Hungary, i don't own a drybrush, i don't have the living space to set up a booth, i don't have a yard to use rattlecans, i paint exclusively with brushes. I also don't have access to craft stores, there are some rather expensive artist stores for canvas painting and regular hardware stores where any kind of gardening type material comes in 20kg bags. Usually ordering most of these things online will double their cost due to shipping. This is not a complaint though, just because conditions aren't ideal is no reason not do something, its more to highlight that "all these things that are around us" doesn't work in every context. But! I do love painting terrain regardless, and i thought i would share my technique here. I started out by watching a GW guide with washes that put me off of painting any terrain for years but about half a year ago a friend of mine gave me half his garden of morr set. I didn't really know what to do with it, but i really liked how it looked, so i started looking and i found a video where a dude took a black primed wall section, put a generous amount of medium grey paint on a huge flat brush, dabbed some of it off and swirled it around the wall. He didnt dab it into all the recesses and the resut due to the not completely flat brick wall was some amazingly varied texture. He then went in with a light grey, dry brushed it and for his part he was done. I wasn't though. I needed some big brushes so went to the artist store where they sold these black cow ear-hair brushes, they were not cheap but not GW expensive and were very soft, so i got some and i picked up a brush from the hardware store that was designed to touch up wall painting (so still a rather large brush). I dabbed it into some Abaddon Black and worked it into the recesses and everything. You might point out that GW paint is expensive, but its actually less so due to being available right here and it took less than a pot to fully paint the set. Then i applied the technique and got the same results, i kinda liked it, the metal bits, skulls, ground parts and small plants around it gave it some variety. So i ordered an administratum building cause i mostly play 40k and did the same thing, however this time due to not painting all the trims (bleh) i didn't get so much variety. I looked at my washes and almost threw up from the thought. Instead i got out some drab green and brown paints, took the smaller cow brush, wiped it decently and dabbed on some dirt and moss, which was not enough, it kinda made it worse by removing some definition so i needed more chaos. I picked up some Skrag brown and another orange and i dabbed it all over the underlying metallic railing that i did paint a steel color. The machines on the walls i painted bronze though so i picked up some Nyhilak oxyde and smushed it all over, at this time intentionally streaking it to double as both leaked out cooland and verdigris. This was too stark though so i dabbed on some dark brown in and around them like grease which very nicely muted things down (also went back and did it a bit on the orange bits). For one final touch i dabbed Abaddon black all over the blown away parts to make them look charred. imgur.com/a/eMaWRKr I thought i would share this, regardless if you thought it was blasphemy, cause i strongly think that not having the best tools available should not be that strong an inhibiting factor by itself and yes, you do have to scale your expactations accordingly, but i'm fine with mine. Hope you don't mind!
I loooove your results! Definitely helped me finally decide on how to tackle my own terrain. As a side note: I realised that the name of a certain manufacturer of oil paints seems to pose a challenge to my non-German-speaking fellow hobbyists. Instead of "AB-telong" I seem to hear frequently, it's pronounced "ab-TAI-lung" instead. And that's the end of this service announcement.
This is perfect timing for me as I'm just about starting a Horus Heresy board build. Thanks for taking the time to make such an informative video for what is a daunting project.
This is still no silver bullet but i came up with a way to save some time on having to pick out all the intricate metal trim. Use alcohol or enamel based metal paint and apply it with a large drybrush or airbrush. Obviously, avoid overspilling where you can but don't worry too much about making mistakes - just smash it on as quick as you can. After it dries, take some alcohol or mineral spirits and wipe away where it is unwanted. Maybe this sounds like throwing two stones to kill one bird but since most of the metal parts protrude you will find that the overspill isn't that bad and i feel like this is quicker and easier than having to precisely pick out the individual parts. To do this, you would have to apply the metal before any oil washes but the oil wash Vince used in the example work okay for adding a rusty tone to the metal so you can save a bit more time by just slathering the whole thing with the one oil wash or use a different color oil/enamel wash to pick out the metals if you prefer.
I'm such a massive fan of painting terrain as a way to refresh my creative juices and just into a flow state. I tend to do my metallics before the oil wash and use far brighter colours than I would on models that I want it to go with and that ties them all together. I've got two old gw pots with oil washes of paynes grey and a mix of browns just for when I need to do terrain
I had to do a ton of these really quickly and felt similar about picking out all the metal bits and came up with this method. I primed with brown and then used a dry brush to pick out all the metal bits, sacrificing accuracy for speed at this stage. I then applied some chipping medium to all the metal parts and also randomly to other sections of the buildings. Then I sprayed a coat of dark grey over the entire building, applied another layer of chipping medium, and then some lighter grey to the intended grey sections. I then used a bit of wet sponge to re-expose the metal and some of the brown and darker grey and then finished by applying some washes and some final scratches/rust. The end result is obviously not as nice as using Vince's method but gives a reasonable result in exchange for minimal brushwork which might be handy to you if you have to mass produce a bunch of these at short notice.
The one place I thought perhaps you could have listened more to your own advice-fighting the impulse to regularity-is that the lower floor seems to follow the pattern of the upper floor, when I think my sense of ruined buildings is that I expect more damage-and perhaps more adventurous greenery?-at the top, but more staining and streaking at the bottom, especially in and across that stone area immediately below the upper floor. That said, utterly inspirational as always! Thanks for not stopping in those places where, well, you could stop, but…! :)
Really like the look of the finished building! Could you provide a rough list of the colors used (I saw Ice Yellow, Shadow Brown, some pigments, Vallejo Steel). Many thanks in advance and maybe some more terrain videos.
Sure, any colors that are close will work, but titanium white, ice yellow, cement green, rotbraun, light brown and then the pigments are iron oxide and brown.
I have been sitting on my original Kill Team starter box terrain like this for years due to decision paralysis. I have painted a few walls to test schemes - never been happy. Then Vince comes along, apron waiving in the wind like a cape to save the ever loving day out of this terrain.
Tbh this is very close to my method for doing terrain like this, except I started doing either airbrush, or on our rare good days, rattlecan spraying the metalics first. I find it easier to paint my grey/stone colour over the walls then. YMMV of course! Also if you're too nervous to do an oil wash, you can do pretty much exactly the same thing with an acrylic wash (with cheaper artist paints, not mini paints I mean) -- except it needs more direction, as it's not something you then wipe away like an oil wash. Lovely video as always - for someone who doesn't like doing terrain, you do it really well :D Love it!
18:00 “there you go you have a great looking piece of terrain” . No , no , mine is still bare plastic. Yours is looking great! But thanks to you maybe mine will in the near future. This is the look I was looking for, thank you for all your great videos, my painting has evolved greatly since I started watching.
Brilliant, thanks! I wish you did this on the mausoleum kit for AoS. I’ve been stuck with it for a while since I want a quick and easy way to paint it 😭
Vince Venturella, the only man who can cook umber perfectly. Seriously though, I absolutely did what you said and tried to paint my terrain GW-perfect, and this just looks so much better. Excited to try this style!
Do you have to? No. AN oil wash doesn't damage acrylic paint any more than a normal wash, but it is a lot of liquid, which can soften paint (same as any liquid you put over acrylic paint that sits there for a while). If you keep your brush touch light and don't cover areas you've already touched, you are generally fine. That being said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with giving it a nice varnish multiple times in the process, it can only help lock in your work and prevent any challenges.
Ahh i got everything right until the oil wash. Used the same products as you, same method, no pressure or anything, however I did not only wipe the wash off but everything - including primer! It look soooo cool before... where did I go wrong Vince?
Hard to say, the paint might not have been set or cured completely. I am not sure that's definitely unusual. You could always varnish a couple of times first, that can help prevent that if its happening as a fail safe.
@@VinceVenturellathank you for the reply. I just tried again, only letting the oil wash sit for 30 minutes and the same happened 🥲 I’m so gutted… my guess is that the primer isn’t strong enough? I’m using army painter matte black through an air brush. Usually great stuff so I’m unsure. The paint was 2 days old so I’m sure it was completely dry. Thanks again, I’ll just have to keep trying 😭
@@VinceVenturella I would like to add to my previous comment that only two strokes with the sponge takes off primer, base coat and second coat of color. Insane!!
@@Doetzidoetz Is your workspace a high humidity area? It could be that having an effect. You may want to do the varnish thing first for sure. Whatever area you removed paint I say just hit with some strong weathering, sounds like a an area where there is some black scarring from an artillery hit. ;)
Hi Vince, i have two questions. 1. At 1:18 you show two paints ice yellow and another that I can’t quite make out, which white is it? 2. At the 1:18 are you combining both paints and if so is it 50/50?
This was a fantastic video Vince. Superb colour scheme and a great finish. Very "grimdark"! When I finally get my table and terrain built, this is the scheme and route I'm going to take. Keep up the incredible work!
I took fairly easy mode/lazy mode to the metalics. I just airbrushed it. Any overspray? Meh, so be it. But I had thinned contrast skeleton horde after the whole walls sections so it hid any thing too crazy bad. It's a good wait to practice trigger discipline. But I'll revisit it and add the oil wash as that'll really help it blend it all together.
Great video, will be painting my Sector Imperialis with these techniques! One suggestion though: would be nice to have a longer showcase of the finished model at the end of the video (like you have now at 18:26), where you'd show it from many different angles in all its glory - and for longer than a couple of seconds. Btw I recently got back into the hobby after a 15-year break, and I'm so glad I found your channel. Your videos are very inspiring and educative!
I worked about 7 hours on my rampart terrain. It looks really great and i havent even yet applied the wash :) could you make a video about sector mechanicus / cobalt foundry / industrial terrain?
would just like to add that you can easily avoid speckling with spray cans. it all depends on humidity, temperature, quality of the spray and distance you're spraying from. and ofc shake them good :D. for those of us that don't have the option of getting an airbrush, we have to learn to make spray priming need perfect!
If you keep the can moving past the target and start your spray before the target you'll avoid a solid 70% of speckling issues. It's surprising how many people point at target, spray, let off, without any appreciable movement when rattle canning.
Watching this for the fifth time - I have the paints I was interested and a bunch of other cool new things that looked fun and interesting to try out at the hobby store - have the Command edition expanded terrain stuff coming that I got for 62 bucks that I am going to try this and a ton of other stuff on. I myself love painting terrain and wish it was not so expensive to get. Will probably ha e to order some of those Archon kits and some scenery forge molds soon
I was just about to finish some terrain that came inside my kill team box, but somehow I got mind blocked, this is just what I needed. Thank you. And yes, the metal frame parts suck.
Hi there - apologies if you're sick of answering this question, maybe I missed it during the video. Prior to applying oils, do you varnish the base coat stage? I've done a quick search of comments below and it seems a 50/50 on yes/no. Presumably if the spirits (I only have sansodor spirits, are those the same?) don't damage the acrylic then I don't need to worry. I wasn't sure if sansodor would thing the oils well enough.
You can varnish or not, you don’t need to varnish before you apply oils, but it can help. It’s 50/50 because it’s not necessary but it can, especially when glossy, help washes flow.
Vince I have a question on streaking. We always only see the dark streak on a lighter surface. Yet in the world streaking happens the opposite way too. Is the clean streak on a dirty surface not done in the hobby because it doesn't read right, or is it an oversight on our part? Great video I've watched it several times.
You can absolutely do lighter streaking as well (though it tends to only show on darker surfaces). You can make your own with oil paints (this is a classic scale modeling thing), or you can get one of the variant lighter color streaking grimes.
What kit is the terrain piece from?? That is a great piece. Great video and advice. I have to get my airbrush out of the basement and in the same room as my other painting area...
Well this will be useful if I ever decide to break into that giant Imperial City box I bought about 20 yrs ago. Thankfully I don't think it has the crazy window grating of modern kits. Thanks as always for the helpful tips.
Any reason not to do basic drybrush/stippling/airbrushing -> make the metal metal and give it the heaviest rust highlights -> dunk (paint carefully I mean) the entire thing in oil wash?
Just started working on terrain that is on my knight bases, this REALLY helped. going for a "mars ruin" that my knights are stomping through. any suggestions on scorch marks on the top/edges of the blasted parts of the ruin/flowing out of windows?
This may be the place to ask... I have figures with holes in the bottom of one foot. At Wonderfest someone sold plastic bases with short pegs sticking out. Clearly, they're meant to go together... but eBay bases are pegless; where can I find them?
Did you do anything specifically to 'seal' (activate?) the pigment, or did you simply let one of your coats of varnish take care of that? Also, thanks very much for this video!! I've got some terrain coming up. The advice you share help give me the courage to try new things!
Super nice weathering. If there only was a magic way for painting all that metal :P I hate those big windows, the brush never catches all the nooks and crannies.
Would there be much difference if I colored the metal trims first and then did the oil wash? I assume it's better to wash all at once but I don't know if you think there is a reason not to.
Hello, thanks for the cool video. I wonder how do these mission model paints works for you with GW shades, agrax earthshade in particular? Because in my case the wash sometimes reacts with a paint, up to the point when the wash strips the paint.
The airbrush part seems pretty hard without … an airbrush. 😅 Any suggestion for technique on that? Medium brush and pretty diluted standard acrylic paint?
@VinceVenturella I was curious about the pieces you were painting in this video you made. Specifically the cathedral terrain, is this from a specific game or is there a website that I can order them from?
It's so good Vince. Kinda sad that all terrain i painted for the club is really colorful, so i can't really try this technic, wouldn't really fit in overall aesthetic
I was just thinking the other day how much I'd love a terrain focussed honby cheating, since I want to fill a table at some point. Would you do anything differently for mdf? Maybe add structure by hand? I am unsure wether I like mdf buildings with structure paste on them or not. But without it all feels so flat
It can be nice to add a little texture here and there depending on the structure in question, here is a video where i tackled MDF - ua-cam.com/video/xiTlYHXs5kU/v-deo.html
@@VinceVenturella very cool, thank you! How would you go about concrete? E.g. 'normal city ruins'. Very cool advice for my envisioned zone mortalis/necromunda board on the rusted metal video
Vince, what are your go to paints and inks for terrain? I have some large pieces and I don't want to use up all my expensive Scale 75 paints and AP inks airbrushing them onto terrain.
Mission Models brings you some good size paint for the money, I also like Vallejo Game Air, it's thin but you can get a lot sprayed through quickly for inks, it's all Daler Rowney FW Ink.
Every time you bust out the pigment pallet I get stressed out because I know it would be a matter of when, not if, I accidentally elbowed that all over the floor if I kept my pigments like that.
very helpful! I am embarking on a quest to make the full city in the new warhammer quest. This will save me alot of time. One question I do have is when purchasing or printing terrain what little details do you suggest to add on a simple piece to make if feel more GW with all the details other than skulls and metal? Thank you again for all you do for the hobby!
Just what i needed, especially after thinking - "ill save some money and go mdf, this stuff is a bargain!" - and having the construction take sooooo long - so quick painting is now deffo order of the day. Terrain deffo also feels like those projects that you can happily go some of the way, play with it, then revisit as time allows
Hi Vince, I've watched this a few times already, but, what do you do for priming the inside of the building? It's hard to get a zenithal highlight when that floor/ceiling is in the way. Do you just leave let it stay pure black? I know we're not going to be really looking at the inside too much when we're playing, but I wasn't sure if there was an easy trick. Maybe dry brushing downwards?
I was thinking the same thing. I have a decent sized pile of terrain hiding in a corner of my basement. I have been avoiding it because I don’t know what to do with it.
List of Vince's other Oil paints links: Not sure on the best "recipe" Vince lists out for oils but this seems to have some good details (please reply if others have better ones?) ua-cam.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 82 - How to Use Oil Paints on Miniatures: ua-cam.com/video/pRakFgYa7_s/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 89 - How to Use Oil Washes ua-cam.com/video/oQmhcSRsiPo/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 212 - Panel Lining with Oils ua-cam.com/video/vnPV-_c9hG8/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 244 - Using Oils for Skin Tones ua-cam.com/video/PDWLDBw62A0/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 248 - Painting Miniatures with Oils ua-cam.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/v-deo.html Hobby Cheating 268 - How to Paint Easy Black Armor with Oils ua-cam.com/video/PE89Dzo3BBo/v-deo.html
I varnished actually before and after. Now, as a point of fact, you don't have to varnish before an oil wash. It won't damage the acrylic paint, but it is a lot of liquid that can soften paint. So I often do just to make everything flow better and keep the work easy.
You didn't mention it in the video so I'm assuming you didn't, but are you just raw dogging the oil wash onto the paint? A lot of the time I see people do a varnish coat to protect the paint under but it looks like that's not necessary here?
Yep, no need to varnish if the acrylic paint is dry (white spirits don't interact with Acrylic paint). In this case, I wanted the staining, so no varnish helps that.
It looka like an MDF or chipboard base. (Probably mdf because chipboard might warp with that much texture.) Then he used different textures of sands and tile grouts, and hit some of the spots with crackle paint to get a good variation in the textures. It looks like he used similar techniques to his basing videos
Vince is dressed nicer to go outside and prime than I've dressed since March 2020
It's how I dress every day. Nothing has changed for me in that regard. :)
I know right?
Wait, you guys got dressed?
@@The.LastMelon Well I had to go out and get groceries now and then, we can't get delivery and apparently bathrobes "Aren't appropriate" in my local supermarket.
@@sodaaddict2225 You have to be Jeff Bridges to pull that off apparently
30 years into tabletop hobby, THIS is the BEST terrain how-to EVER! Quick, easy way with guaranteed success. Great stuff man!
The burnt umber joke happened so fast and was an absolute belter! I just wanted to give appreciation to that! Great video too :)
I’ve referenced this video about 15 times over the past couple of years. Thanks so much for all of your valuable lessons. 🙏
"I have lots of videos on doing streaking." Vince Venturella, 2021.
Vince, save those for your OnlyFans!
I've got to compete with Miniac's Onlyfans somehow. ;)
Lmao
First video in the series starting outside and then that quote. Is he going for a reboot of The Fabulous Furry Freak Brothers?
@@VinceVenturella you can never compete with my lanky luminescent body
8:20: “we could stop here, but we won’t”.
By now, I’m looking for these!
Yep, I always want to give people the chance to go as far as they like. :)
@@VinceVenturella Vince always gives people a safe word.
Hey! I'm from Hungary, i don't own a drybrush, i don't have the living space to set up a booth, i don't have a yard to use rattlecans, i paint exclusively with brushes. I also don't have access to craft stores, there are some rather expensive artist stores for canvas painting and regular hardware stores where any kind of gardening type material comes in 20kg bags. Usually ordering most of these things online will double their cost due to shipping.
This is not a complaint though, just because conditions aren't ideal is no reason not do something, its more to highlight that "all these things that are around us" doesn't work in every context.
But! I do love painting terrain regardless, and i thought i would share my technique here. I started out by watching a GW guide with washes that put me off of painting any terrain for years but about half a year ago a friend of mine gave me half his garden of morr set. I didn't really know what to do with it, but i really liked how it looked, so i started looking and i found a video where a dude took a black primed wall section, put a generous amount of medium grey paint on a huge flat brush, dabbed some of it off and swirled it around the wall. He didnt dab it into all the recesses and the resut due to the not completely flat brick wall was some amazingly varied texture. He then went in with a light grey, dry brushed it and for his part he was done.
I wasn't though. I needed some big brushes so went to the artist store where they sold these black cow ear-hair brushes, they were not cheap but not GW expensive and were very soft, so i got some and i picked up a brush from the hardware store that was designed to touch up wall painting (so still a rather large brush). I dabbed it into some Abaddon Black and worked it into the recesses and everything. You might point out that GW paint is expensive, but its actually less so due to being available right here and it took less than a pot to fully paint the set. Then i applied the technique and got the same results, i kinda liked it, the metal bits, skulls, ground parts and small plants around it gave it some variety.
So i ordered an administratum building cause i mostly play 40k and did the same thing, however this time due to not painting all the trims (bleh) i didn't get so much variety. I looked at my washes and almost threw up from the thought. Instead i got out some drab green and brown paints, took the smaller cow brush, wiped it decently and dabbed on some dirt and moss, which was not enough, it kinda made it worse by removing some definition so i needed more chaos. I picked up some Skrag brown and another orange and i dabbed it all over the underlying metallic railing that i did paint a steel color. The machines on the walls i painted bronze though so i picked up some Nyhilak oxyde and smushed it all over, at this time intentionally streaking it to double as both leaked out cooland and verdigris. This was too stark though so i dabbed on some dark brown in and around them like grease which very nicely muted things down (also went back and did it a bit on the orange bits). For one final touch i dabbed Abaddon black all over the blown away parts to make them look charred.
imgur.com/a/eMaWRKr
I thought i would share this, regardless if you thought it was blasphemy, cause i strongly think that not having the best tools available should not be that strong an inhibiting factor by itself and yes, you do have to scale your expactations accordingly, but i'm fine with mine. Hope you don't mind!
Great to share and a good point that it's different circumstances for everyone. :)
You know things are serious when Vince busts out the "Look, fam..."
Had to dial everyone in. :)
This radiates "So anyway, I started blasting."
Very much so. :)
Fantastic as always Vince! I'd be interested in seeing what you could do with some AOS / fantasy / medieval type terrain, a different beast indeed!
Well, I have some more terrain coming next month, and I am sure I will hit more fantasy stuff over time. :)
I loooove your results! Definitely helped me finally decide on how to tackle my own terrain.
As a side note: I realised that the name of a certain manufacturer of oil paints seems to pose a challenge to my non-German-speaking fellow hobbyists. Instead of "AB-telong" I seem to hear frequently, it's pronounced "ab-TAI-lung" instead. And that's the end of this service announcement.
Great tip! I am sure I will still get it wrong. :)
This is perfect timing for me as I'm just about starting a Horus Heresy board build. Thanks for taking the time to make such an informative video for what is a daunting project.
Glad I could help!
This is still no silver bullet but i came up with a way to save some time on having to pick out all the intricate metal trim. Use alcohol or enamel based metal paint and apply it with a large drybrush or airbrush. Obviously, avoid overspilling where you can but don't worry too much about making mistakes - just smash it on as quick as you can. After it dries, take some alcohol or mineral spirits and wipe away where it is unwanted. Maybe this sounds like throwing two stones to kill one bird but since most of the metal parts protrude you will find that the overspill isn't that bad and i feel like this is quicker and easier than having to precisely pick out the individual parts.
To do this, you would have to apply the metal before any oil washes but the oil wash Vince used in the example work okay for adding a rusty tone to the metal so you can save a bit more time by just slathering the whole thing with the one oil wash or use a different color oil/enamel wash to pick out the metals if you prefer.
Good call. :)
I'm such a massive fan of painting terrain as a way to refresh my creative juices and just into a flow state. I tend to do my metallics before the oil wash and use far brighter colours than I would on models that I want it to go with and that ties them all together. I've got two old gw pots with oil washes of paynes grey and a mix of browns just for when I need to do terrain
Totally agreed.
Your terrain videos are just the best. So much good advise. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
I had to do a ton of these really quickly and felt similar about picking out all the metal bits and came up with this method.
I primed with brown and then used a dry brush to pick out all the metal bits, sacrificing accuracy for speed at this stage. I then applied some chipping medium to all the metal parts and also randomly to other sections of the buildings. Then I sprayed a coat of dark grey over the entire building, applied another layer of chipping medium, and then some lighter grey to the intended grey sections. I then used a bit of wet sponge to re-expose the metal and some of the brown and darker grey and then finished by applying some washes and some final scratches/rust.
The end result is obviously not as nice as using Vince's method but gives a reasonable result in exchange for minimal brushwork which might be handy to you if you have to mass produce a bunch of these at short notice.
Solid method, I like it.
Love the video! Helped me paint my Warcry pretty quickly. Also i found out that orange contrast, direct from the pot make for a great rust effect.
Awesome, and totally agree.
The one place I thought perhaps you could have listened more to your own advice-fighting the impulse to regularity-is that the lower floor seems to follow the pattern of the upper floor, when I think my sense of ruined buildings is that I expect more damage-and perhaps more adventurous greenery?-at the top, but more staining and streaking at the bottom, especially in and across that stone area immediately below the upper floor.
That said, utterly inspirational as always! Thanks for not stopping in those places where, well, you could stop, but…! :)
Great point honestly, I will have to think on that more in the future. :)
Yes! Thanks 🙏 I’ve been stuck on what to do with my terrain for ages!
Happy to help!
Really like the look of the finished building!
Could you provide a rough list of the colors used (I saw Ice Yellow, Shadow Brown, some pigments, Vallejo Steel).
Many thanks in advance and maybe some more terrain videos.
Sure, any colors that are close will work, but titanium white, ice yellow, cement green, rotbraun, light brown and then the pigments are iron oxide and brown.
I love the dapper painter!
I have been sitting on my original Kill Team starter box terrain like this for years due to decision paralysis. I have painted a few walls to test schemes - never been happy. Then Vince comes along, apron waiving in the wind like a cape to save the ever loving day out of this terrain.
Awesome, happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella That Rustoleum ivory spray you used, was it the Gloss variety? Seems like that is all I can seem to find.
Tbh this is very close to my method for doing terrain like this, except I started doing either airbrush, or on our rare good days, rattlecan spraying the metalics first. I find it easier to paint my grey/stone colour over the walls then. YMMV of course! Also if you're too nervous to do an oil wash, you can do pretty much exactly the same thing with an acrylic wash (with cheaper artist paints, not mini paints I mean) -- except it needs more direction, as it's not something you then wipe away like an oil wash.
Lovely video as always - for someone who doesn't like doing terrain, you do it really well :D Love it!
Thank you, very happy to help. :)
lobbing the Agrax 'No, throw that away' the comedic timing!
On the first take the lid was open.
Glad you enjoyed. :)
Such a constant work. Vince Venturella is definitely master of hard work...
Thank you, very much apprecaited. :)
18:00 “there you go you have a great looking piece of terrain” . No , no , mine is still bare plastic. Yours is looking great! But thanks to you maybe mine will in the near future. This is the look I was looking for, thank you for all your great videos, my painting has evolved greatly since I started watching.
That's awesome to hear!
Brilliant, thanks! I wish you did this on the mausoleum kit for AoS. I’ve been stuck with it for a while since I want a quick and easy way to paint it 😭
Agreed same here.
Well, bright side, the same techniques would work for sure. :)
Vince Venturella, the only man who can cook umber perfectly. Seriously though, I absolutely did what you said and tried to paint my terrain GW-perfect, and this just looks so much better. Excited to try this style!
Glad I could help! :)
I have one question... I have to seal the acrylic colours with varnish before the oil wash?
Do you have to? No. AN oil wash doesn't damage acrylic paint any more than a normal wash, but it is a lot of liquid, which can soften paint (same as any liquid you put over acrylic paint that sits there for a while). If you keep your brush touch light and don't cover areas you've already touched, you are generally fine. That being said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with giving it a nice varnish multiple times in the process, it can only help lock in your work and prevent any challenges.
@@VinceVenturella ok! Thanks for the tip Vince!
Ahh i got everything right until the oil wash. Used the same products as you, same method, no pressure or anything, however I did not only wipe the wash off but everything - including primer! It look soooo cool before... where did I go wrong Vince?
Hard to say, the paint might not have been set or cured completely. I am not sure that's definitely unusual. You could always varnish a couple of times first, that can help prevent that if its happening as a fail safe.
@@VinceVenturellathank you for the reply. I just tried again, only letting the oil wash sit for 30 minutes and the same happened 🥲 I’m so gutted… my guess is that the primer isn’t strong enough? I’m using army painter matte black through an air brush. Usually great stuff so I’m unsure. The paint was 2 days old so I’m sure it was completely dry. Thanks again, I’ll just have to keep trying 😭
@@VinceVenturella I would like to add to my previous comment that only two strokes with the sponge takes off primer, base coat and second coat of color. Insane!!
@@Doetzidoetz Is your workspace a high humidity area? It could be that having an effect. You may want to do the varnish thing first for sure. Whatever area you removed paint I say just hit with some strong weathering, sounds like a an area where there is some black scarring from an artillery hit. ;)
@@VinceVenturellalow humidity :/ but I will try the varnish and great idea with the weathering, if all fails: Typhus corrosion 🫡 thanks again!
Hi Vince, i have two questions.
1. At 1:18 you show two paints ice yellow and another that I can’t quite make out, which white is it?
2. At the 1:18 are you combining both paints and if so is it 50/50?
Any kind of ivory, or similar warm white will work for that step. Yes, generally, but the exact ratio isn't too important.
Really like the zen terrain painting. Much appreciated, thanks for sharing and please stay safe.
Thanks 👍
This was a fantastic video Vince. Superb colour scheme and a great finish. Very "grimdark"! When I finally get my table and terrain built, this is the scheme and route I'm going to take. Keep up the incredible work!
Thanks again! Always happy to help.
I took fairly easy mode/lazy mode to the metalics. I just airbrushed it. Any overspray? Meh, so be it. But I had thinned contrast skeleton horde after the whole walls sections so it hid any thing too crazy bad. It's a good wait to practice trigger discipline.
But I'll revisit it and add the oil wash as that'll really help it blend it all together.
Yep, it's a good way to tie it together.
That's it, I'm getting myself an oil wash. I usually use the magic that is streaking grime as an overall wash, but some variation can't hurt.
It's a great tool, especially for stuff like terrain, I wouldn't want to work without it.
Great video, will be painting my Sector Imperialis with these techniques! One suggestion though: would be nice to have a longer showcase of the finished model at the end of the video (like you have now at 18:26), where you'd show it from many different angles in all its glory - and for longer than a couple of seconds.
Btw I recently got back into the hobby after a 15-year break, and I'm so glad I found your channel. Your videos are very inspiring and educative!
Excellent idea, I will have a longer showcase at the end in the future. :)
I worked about 7 hours on my rampart terrain. It looks really great and i havent even yet applied the wash :)
could you make a video about sector mechanicus / cobalt foundry / industrial terrain?
I'll see what else I can do. :)
Love it! Vince, you're a genius. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked it! :)
I just started Warhammer and I got really intimated by painting my terrain and this was seriously so helpful! Thank you!
Glad I could help!
@@VinceVenturella It's even better because I'm literally painting the Battle Sanctum for my Sisters army too! It's PERFECT!
would just like to add that you can easily avoid speckling with spray cans. it all depends on humidity, temperature, quality of the spray and distance you're spraying from. and ofc shake them good :D.
for those of us that don't have the option of getting an airbrush, we have to learn to make spray priming need perfect!
If you keep the can moving past the target and start your spray before the target you'll avoid a solid 70% of speckling issues. It's surprising how many people point at target, spray, let off, without any appreciable movement when rattle canning.
Great tip! :)
Fantastic. I cant help but feel just a bit of Nihilak oxide would have added so much !
A great call for sure.
I really love the color choices on this - I guess I am going to be ordering some more paints to add to my collection.
Glad you enjoyed. :)
Watching this for the fifth time - I have the paints I was interested and a bunch of other cool new things that looked fun and interesting to try out at the hobby store - have the Command edition expanded terrain stuff coming that I got for 62 bucks that I am going to try this and a ton of other stuff on. I myself love painting terrain and wish it was not so expensive to get. Will probably ha e to order some of those Archon kits and some scenery forge molds soon
This has been helpful, was buried it two tables of terrain for an upcoming event I was commissioned for.
Awesome, happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella it’s for motor city mayhem in Detroit this weekend . We have a streaming table. Hope we get some eyes on it.
I was just about to finish some terrain that came inside my kill team box, but somehow I got mind blocked, this is just what I needed.
Thank you.
And yes, the metal frame parts suck.
Awesome, happy to help.
Hi there - apologies if you're sick of answering this question, maybe I missed it during the video.
Prior to applying oils, do you varnish the base coat stage? I've done a quick search of comments below and it seems a 50/50 on yes/no. Presumably if the spirits (I only have sansodor spirits, are those the same?) don't damage the acrylic then I don't need to worry. I wasn't sure if sansodor would thing the oils well enough.
You can varnish or not, you don’t need to varnish before you apply oils, but it can help. It’s 50/50 because it’s not necessary but it can, especially when glossy, help washes flow.
Vince I have a question on streaking. We always only see the dark streak on a lighter surface. Yet in the world streaking happens the opposite way too. Is the clean streak on a dirty surface not done in the hobby because it doesn't read right, or is it an oversight on our part? Great video I've watched it several times.
You can absolutely do lighter streaking as well (though it tends to only show on darker surfaces). You can make your own with oil paints (this is a classic scale modeling thing), or you can get one of the variant lighter color streaking grimes.
What kit is the terrain piece from?? That is a great piece. Great video and advice. I have to get my airbrush out of the basement and in the same room as my other painting area...
It's the Sisters of Battle piece from the kit with the big statue of Saint Celestine.
There are some honestly beautiful quotes in this video!
Glad you enjoyed. :)
thanks for the great video!
is there a reason why you use contrast instead of oils for the streaks?
Just the speed in this case, but ther eis no reason you can't use oils (or both). :)
Well this will be useful if I ever decide to break into that giant Imperial City box I bought about 20 yrs ago. Thankfully I don't think it has the crazy window grating of modern kits. Thanks as always for the helpful tips.
Glad I could help!
Any reason not to do basic drybrush/stippling/airbrushing -> make the metal metal and give it the heaviest rust highlights -> dunk (paint carefully I mean) the entire thing in oil wash?
Nope, you could certainly do that as well, I don't generally like to fully wash my metals, thats a personal thing, but you certainly could.
Hi Vince! I was wondering if you applied varnish before oil washes. Thank you so much.
Not always. You can, nothing wrong with it, but it's not strictly necessary.
@@VinceVenturella Don’t spirits damage previous work or the plastic itself?
Thank you for this. I was struggling with how to make my terrain interesting. Its so boring on the table.
Glad it was helpful!
Well now I am EXITED to paint some terrain😮 well done Vince
Great job! liked and subscribed. I would just like to see a final clear shot, perhaps on a turn table.
Yes, most of the time I will include a final shot now. My apologies on that, but glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :)
Wow, that was excellent. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Just started working on terrain that is on my knight bases, this REALLY helped. going for a "mars ruin" that my knights are stomping through. any suggestions on scorch marks on the top/edges of the blasted parts of the ruin/flowing out of windows?
Well, just some simple black pigment and then some agrax around that area can make it feel like a scorch pretty quick.
This may be the place to ask... I have figures with holes in the bottom of one foot. At Wonderfest someone sold plastic bases with short pegs sticking out. Clearly, they're meant to go together... but eBay bases are pegless; where can I find them?
I have never seen this, I am honestly not sure, I would have guessed ebay, but you could also look at something like Michigan Toy Soldier.
Always appreciate your knowledge Vince... keep fighting the good fight brother.
Thank you, I will - Always happy to help. :)
Did you do anything specifically to 'seal' (activate?) the pigment, or did you simply let one of your coats of varnish take care of that? Also, thanks very much for this video!! I've got some terrain coming up. The advice you share help give me the courage to try new things!
Nothing special to seal the pigment, I just let all the other steps take care of that.
Amaaaaazing tutorial. Great ideas for some terrain I have sitting around!
Glad you liked it!
Hi Vince. Quick question I guess your base for the building is MDF? How do you stop it from warping with all the basing material going on.
Just plasticard, no issue because of the size of the building, it kept it flat.
I really liked the look of this technique!
Thanks!
Super nice weathering. If there only was a magic way for painting all that metal :P I hate those big windows, the brush never catches all the nooks and crannies.
Indeed, you always see spots you miss later, fortunately, you can just cover them later with rust :)
Would there be much difference if I colored the metal trims first and then did the oil wash? I assume it's better to wash all at once but I don't know if you think there is a reason not to.
Nope, that would be fine, I don't like to wash the metal, but no reason you couldn't it would work just fine.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you for your kind reply!
Hello, thanks for the cool video.
I wonder how do these mission model paints works for you with GW shades, agrax earthshade in particular? Because in my case the wash sometimes reacts with a paint, up to the point when the wash strips the paint.
I don't use them much, but never really had an issue with reactivation, but I often use them on terrain and that's varnished.
The airbrush part seems pretty hard without … an airbrush. 😅 Any suggestion for technique on that? Medium brush and pretty diluted standard acrylic paint?
Sure, large flat brush and diluted paint or ink.
@@VinceVenturella cheers!
Hi Vince, Great Tutorial.
Can you make tutorials for medieval terrain like Timber framing houses aswell?
Sure, I will add it on the list. :)
@VinceVenturella I was curious about the pieces you were painting in this video you made. Specifically the cathedral terrain, is this from a specific game or is there a website that I can order them from?
It's the Sisters of Battle terrain from Games Workshop 40K
Thank you
It's so good Vince. Kinda sad that all terrain i painted for the club is really colorful, so i can't really try this technic, wouldn't really fit in overall aesthetic
Nothing wrong with colorful terrain. :)
Hey Vince, what did you use for the 'base' of your terrain piece there, in the video? Is it posterboard and vallejo texture paint, or?
If I was to guess I would think EPVC for the base - all the benefits of MDF with none of the downsides
Just plasticard and a little basing paste, nothing complicated. :)
Terrain. I will be honest...I LOVE IT! Great video...so many good tips.
Thanks 👍
I was just thinking the other day how much I'd love a terrain focussed honby cheating, since I want to fill a table at some point.
Would you do anything differently for mdf? Maybe add structure by hand? I am unsure wether I like mdf buildings with structure paste on them or not. But without it all feels so flat
It can be nice to add a little texture here and there depending on the structure in question, here is a video where i tackled MDF - ua-cam.com/video/xiTlYHXs5kU/v-deo.html
@@VinceVenturella very cool, thank you!
How would you go about concrete? E.g. 'normal city ruins'.
Very cool advice for my envisioned zone mortalis/necromunda board on the rusted metal video
Vince, what are your go to paints and inks for terrain? I have some large pieces and I don't want to use up all my expensive Scale 75 paints and AP inks airbrushing them onto terrain.
Mission Models brings you some good size paint for the money, I also like Vallejo Game Air, it's thin but you can get a lot sprayed through quickly for inks, it's all Daler Rowney FW Ink.
Every time you bust out the pigment pallet I get stressed out because I know it would be a matter of when, not if, I accidentally elbowed that all over the floor if I kept my pigments like that.
I've ben going on several years now. I am very careful with it, but there is always a stressor. :)
Sometimes, if you're a wuss like me, you can get the GSW “liquid pigments” (huh?) to do something useful.
Great Video ! What about varnish ? The usual mat varnish before the steel ?
Yep, I did my standard mix of satin and ultra matter varnish to lock it all in.
Green Grey? Didn't she become Dark Phoenix?
This is a great tutorial. I like messy, grungy paint styles; and oil washes are so cool.
Thank you, very happy to help. ;)
Hey Vince, what starting colors variations would you use for Underhive themed terrain? Specifically the stack-able columns from the new kits.
Probably something similar, but I also like various browns, cement green or any yellow/white, very light browns, anything like that.
very helpful! I am embarking on a quest to make the full city in the new warhammer quest. This will save me alot of time. One question I do have is when purchasing or printing terrain what little details do you suggest to add on a simple piece to make if feel more GW with all the details other than skulls and metal? Thank you again for all you do for the hobby!
Glad I could help!
Just what i needed, especially after thinking - "ill save some money and go mdf, this stuff is a bargain!" - and having the construction take sooooo long - so quick painting is now deffo order of the day. Terrain deffo also feels like those projects that you can happily go some of the way, play with it, then revisit as time allows
Always a new thing to learn. But today i'll take home that Vince loves streeking! 😉
I do indeed. ;)
Thanks for a fantastic video, super clear and practical
Never used pigments before, but going to try on some similar terrain. Do you need to seal the pigments after application?
It's not an essential item if you really work them in. But if you want to give it a good varnish, that can make sure it's all sealed in.
Thanks Vince... where was this when I truly butchered my kill zone terrain a year or so ago...
Sorry, I will try to back date all future videos by a year. ;)
Question for you sir, did you add a varnish at the end to seal in the pigments?
I did not, but when you work them in this hard, they aren't really going to come off.
Hi Vince, I've watched this a few times already, but, what do you do for priming the inside of the building? It's hard to get a zenithal highlight when that floor/ceiling is in the way. Do you just leave let it stay pure black? I know we're not going to be really looking at the inside too much when we're playing, but I wasn't sure if there was an easy trick. Maybe dry brushing downwards?
Just cheat a little and rotate the light to get some grey under there, it shouldn't be that dark. (Light bounces more than spray paint. :)
Great video, lots of knowledge packed in. Is that a GW kit or a print? The detail is really nice.
A GW Terrain kit from 40K
Dang Vince, this looks niceeeeeeeeee :-)
Thank you brother, very much appreciated. :)
i know I am quite off topic but does anyone know of a good place to stream new series online ?
@Joe Miles flixportal :)
@Emerson Garrett Thanks, signed up and it seems to work :) Appreciate it !!
@Joe Miles Glad I could help :)
Terrain just warms my cold heart. Awsome video. What do you think about the mission model paints?
They are okay, basically, there are a few I like, but they don't grab me in a big way.
You are a saviour, I just have a pile of terrain waiting to be painted!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I was thinking the same thing. I have a decent sized pile of terrain hiding in a corner of my basement. I have been avoiding it because I don’t know what to do with it.
I wonder if adamantium rusts? This has to be the third time I've watched this this since yesterday, trying to soak up all the advice!
I'm just assuming all future metals oxidize in some way, mainly because it looks cool.
List of Vince's other Oil paints links:
Not sure on the best "recipe" Vince lists out for oils but this seems to have some good details (please reply if others have better ones?)
ua-cam.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 82 - How to Use Oil Paints on Miniatures:
ua-cam.com/video/pRakFgYa7_s/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 89 - How to Use Oil Washes
ua-cam.com/video/oQmhcSRsiPo/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 212 - Panel Lining with Oils
ua-cam.com/video/vnPV-_c9hG8/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 244 - Using Oils for Skin Tones
ua-cam.com/video/PDWLDBw62A0/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 248 - Painting Miniatures with Oils
ua-cam.com/video/-ha32I_iJPM/v-deo.html
Hobby Cheating 268 - How to Paint Easy Black Armor with Oils
ua-cam.com/video/PE89Dzo3BBo/v-deo.html
That bit of colour in the gray is fantastic! Did you not have to varnish prior to or after the oil wash ?
I varnished actually before and after. Now, as a point of fact, you don't have to varnish before an oil wash. It won't damage the acrylic paint, but it is a lot of liquid that can soften paint. So I often do just to make everything flow better and keep the work easy.
Brilliant this. Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
Thanks for this Vince. I'm curious, would you recommend varnishing before the oil wash for this application?
You certainly can, it can only help, but you don't have to. I think if you want to be safe, it's never a bad idea.
Awesome video. Thank you 👍
Glad you liked it! :)
You didn't mention it in the video so I'm assuming you didn't, but are you just raw dogging the oil wash onto the paint? A lot of the time I see people do a varnish coat to protect the paint under but it looks like that's not necessary here?
Yep, no need to varnish if the acrylic paint is dry (white spirits don't interact with Acrylic paint). In this case, I wanted the staining, so no varnish helps that.
great tutorial as always, would be great to see how you based the building? You might already have a video on this?
So I basically just cut a little piece of plasticard to shape and then glued it on, nothing more complicated than that. :)
It looka like an MDF or chipboard base. (Probably mdf because chipboard might warp with that much texture.) Then he used different textures of sands and tile grouts, and hit some of the spots with crackle paint to get a good variation in the textures. It looks like he used similar techniques to his basing videos
Great tutorial Vince. Fantastic work and great coaching!
Glad it was helpful!
this is absolutely amazing
Thanks!