Thank you for a very helpfully video. I'm going to be replacing the seals on my Tilt Rams at the weekend, and this video is very usefully. Thanks again.
Thank you for a very informative video I am a motor mechanic in Australia and I'm quite confident I can do this after watching your video. Greetings from West Australia
Dear Paul, the stand has the following dimensions: height 520 mm, internal width 110 mm, external width 250 mm, length 500 mm. The height is of course the less significant because it is related to the actual height of the trailer. Have a nice day.
Hi Steve, great Video. I am wondering, could you make a diagram of the plate including the correct thread size for the centre bolt you used to remove the Hinge Pins. I would like to make one myself. My boat is moored in the water and I don't know what size thread and bolt I need.
Hi. You have to disassemble the outdrive. I have never done it, no need to do. If you deem it necessary you had better get a workshop manual such as Clymer or Seloc. You can buy easily on the web. Everything is explained in there. Good luck.
Yes I need replacement this H bracket. Some reason my reverse lock don’t works properly and my out drive go up to much and damage my fork. Must stop works long time ago and I don’t see in time 😔 bay the way grate movie about reverse lock. If it’ possible I will be have later more questions about this lock. Thank you for your help
Hi Waye. Sorry for late answering. The thread size of the bolt for clamping hinge pins is 5/16". The tool is very easy to make. Mine is a piece of steel 20 mm wide, 10 mm thick, 60 mm long, with a smooth hole Ø 8.0 mm in center to house the 5/16" bolt, and two threaded holes M6 at the side, at a center distance of 40 mm, to house the extraction screws. Don't forget to put a spacer between the extraction screws and the drive to protect it from being scratched or damaged while you turn the screws. The whole operation is in my video approximately at minute 3:56.
I found that the threads on my pins are M8 1.25. Very close to 5/16 in diameter. The 5/16 would thread in a little bit but then bind. I had to order a new part to figure out the correct threads, as the old ones had been messed up from previous work on the drive.
Hi Michael. I will post a picture of the tool next week. I have to go to the boat next Saturday and I will take a picture of it on that occasion. The dimensions have already been communicated in the comments to this video. Thank you. Best regards
Hi Thorsten. Sorry I completely missed this comment when you did it. I apologize for this. 40 mm is the distance between the 2 threaded holes. From the midline of the tool to each threaded hole is 20 mm. Best regards.
hi I am trying to replace my prop shaft also a volvo penta and I am getting stuck at putting the new prop shaft in with lining up the gears inside with the shaft coming down where they meet. does the verticle shaft coming down the the prop shaft have to be removed in order to get the prop shaft in. thanks in advance great video thanks for sharing
Hi. Thank you for your comment. There is no need of removing the vertical shaft in order to repalce the propeller shaft. If you are going to carry out these maintenance jobs, my strong advice is to get a shop manual. I have a Clymer and it is done pretty well. Any maintenance job is explained step by step. I know that also Seloc is a good shop manual. Good luck!
what is the top rubber bellow called on the out drive and would I need to remove to whole outdrive like you did in this video the replace the rubber bellow mine is all cracked and letting water into the boat
Is this pretty much the same for a 280? I need to remove mine because it isn't shifting into forward or reverse.. I wish I could fox it without having to remove it off the boat lol
Hi Capt. Steve, I have twin 280 stern drives. My first service of the drives, the boat is only recently purchased, I had no trouble removing the stbd. drive but could not removed the port side which seemed to be seized. Is there anyway of overcoming this next time it is slipped? Thanks for the Great video. I'm a retired mechanical fitter in Australia.
Dear Rick, the important thing is is to properly grease all matching metal surfaces so to prevent corrosion which makes very difficult any subsequent removal. I never economize on grease. Use water resistant grease but in any case any grease is always better than no grease at all. Best wishes.
Thanks for your prompt reply Capt. Steve. It seems that I may have to remove the shield and all the connecting components to access the seized spline. Does that sound practicable or is there an easier way. I'm trying to cut down the out of water time as the daily hardstand rate can become pretty expensive if out for any length of time. Your services and videos are very much appreciated. Cheers, Rick.
I don't think you can. You have to remove the trim cylinder pins. If you use the tilt the pins are always under pressure and you cannot remove them. Use a rope ad I did in the video. Pretty simple procedure.
My steering pin has the two allen head bolts but, not the the two 1/4 inch threads two the sides. Just the two allen bolts. Is there another way to get that pin out?
Hi Lisa. The homemade tool is a simple wooden trolley to hold the drive when you remove the lateral pins. I often take my time make proper tools when carrying out specific jobs because I have always believed the the right tool is the first key to succeding in what you are doing. All the best.
I say this with constructive criticism. No offense! Always remove the transmission first and only prior to attempting to remove the entire stern drive. This opens up the area to easier access to the shift cable bracket, the S hose clamp, the drive shaft bellows, etc, not to mention how much less weight you will need to deal with. When going back together, install the Intermediate housing/lower unit, and the transmission last!
Thank you for a very helpfully video. I'm going to be replacing the seals on my Tilt Rams at the weekend, and this video is very usefully. Thanks again.
Thank you for a very informative video I am a motor mechanic in Australia and I'm quite confident I can do this after watching your video. Greetings from West Australia
Sure you will. Thank you and all the best!
Thank´s a lot! Your videos are very good. I have the workshop manual, but the video is so much better!
Grazie Stefano, filmati didattici ottimi !!
Dear Paul, the stand has the following dimensions: height 520 mm, internal width 110 mm, external width 250 mm, length 500 mm. The height is of course the less significant because it is related to the actual height of the trailer.
Have a nice day.
What size lumber did you use to build this?
Awesome .my hinge pins have crust in them couldn't really tell if threaded until now. Mind your head mate lot's of pointy's above you.
Hi Steve, great Video. I am wondering, could you make a diagram of the plate including the correct thread size for the centre bolt you used to remove the Hinge Pins. I would like to make one myself. My boat is moored in the water and I don't know what size thread and bolt I need.
Hi Steve, thanks for posting. Could you list the bolt and thread size for the tool you made to pull the pivot pins? Thanks!
I am having trouble finding that thread size too.
Hello again Capt Steve. How I can remove fork H from the middle section 🤔😔. Thank you for your comment
Hi. You have to disassemble the outdrive. I have never done it, no need to do. If you deem it necessary you had better get a workshop manual such as Clymer or Seloc. You can buy easily on the web. Everything is explained in there. Good luck.
Yes I need replacement this H bracket. Some reason my reverse lock don’t works properly and my out drive go up to much and damage my fork. Must stop works long time ago and I don’t see in time 😔 bay the way grate movie about reverse lock. If it’ possible I will be have later more questions about this lock. Thank you for your help
Hi Waye. Sorry for late answering.
The thread size of the bolt for clamping hinge pins is 5/16". The tool is very easy to make. Mine is a piece of steel 20 mm wide, 10 mm thick, 60 mm long, with a smooth hole Ø 8.0 mm in center to house the 5/16" bolt, and two threaded holes M6 at the side, at a center distance of 40 mm, to house the extraction screws.
Don't forget to put a spacer between the extraction screws and the drive to protect it from being scratched or damaged while you turn the screws. The whole operation is in my video approximately at minute 3:56.
I found that the threads on my pins are M8 1.25. Very close to 5/16 in diameter. The 5/16 would thread in a little bit but then bind. I had to order a new part to figure out the correct threads, as the old ones had been messed up from previous work on the drive.
hi sorry for my blindness but if the whole pice ist 60 mm long how to get 40mm from the center?? if only 30mm left?
Steve great video help. For the custom tool to remove the pins holding the stern drive on, can you share a pix and some measurements in support of it?
Hi Michael. I will post a picture of the tool next week. I have to go to the boat next Saturday and I will take a picture of it on that occasion. The dimensions have already been communicated in the comments to this video. Thank you. Best regards
Hi Thorsten. Sorry I completely missed this comment when you did it. I apologize for this.
40 mm is the distance between the 2 threaded holes. From the midline of the tool to each threaded hole is 20 mm. Best regards.
Grate video. I have AQ231A and 290DP if I want removal my engine, I need removal my stern drive the same??
Hi. You don't need to remove the drive but I would suggest doing so because it is a good chance to check/replace the gimbal bearings.
hi I am trying to replace my prop shaft also a volvo penta and I am getting stuck at putting the new prop shaft in with lining up the gears inside with the shaft coming down where they meet. does the verticle shaft coming down the the prop shaft have to be removed in order to get the prop shaft in. thanks in advance great video thanks for sharing
Hi. Thank you for your comment.
There is no need of removing the vertical shaft in order to repalce the propeller shaft. If you are going to carry out these maintenance jobs, my strong advice is to get a shop manual. I have a Clymer and it is done pretty well. Any maintenance job is explained step by step. I know that also Seloc is a good shop manual. Good luck!
what is the top rubber bellow called on the out drive and would I need to remove to whole outdrive like you did in this video the replace the rubber bellow mine is all cracked and letting water into the boat
Is this pretty much the same for a 280? I need to remove mine because it isn't shifting into forward or reverse.. I wish I could fox it without having to remove it off the boat lol
It is similar but not the same. The main difference is that outdrive 280 has internal power trim, while outdrive 290 has external hydraulic trim.
Hi Capt. Steve, I have twin 280 stern drives. My first service of the drives, the boat is only recently purchased, I had no trouble removing the stbd. drive but could not removed the port side which seemed to be seized. Is there anyway of overcoming this next time it is slipped? Thanks for the Great video. I'm a retired mechanical fitter in Australia.
Dear Rick, the important thing is is to properly grease all matching metal surfaces so to prevent corrosion which makes very difficult any subsequent removal. I never economize on grease. Use water resistant grease but in any case any grease is always better than no grease at all. Best wishes.
Thanks for your prompt reply Capt. Steve. It seems that I may have to remove the shield and all the connecting components to access the seized spline. Does that sound practicable or is there an easier way. I'm trying to cut down the out of water time as the daily hardstand rate can become pretty expensive if out for any length of time. Your services and videos are very much appreciated. Cheers, Rick.
Great vid. I cant lift the stern drive manually. Is it ok if I tilt it up using tilt. If not how do I lift the stern drive manually?
I don't think you can. You have to remove the trim cylinder pins. If you use the tilt the pins are always under pressure and you cannot remove them. Use a rope ad I did in the video. Pretty simple procedure.
My steering pin has the two allen head bolts but, not the the two 1/4 inch threads two the sides. Just the two allen bolts. Is there another way to get that pin out?
Probably someone has replaced it with a non original part. Difficult to remove without the extraction threads. You can make them with a battery drill.
Can the gimbal bearing be removed through the outdrive side or motor side?
I don't know. I have never done it. Sorry.
Hi Steve, what is the thread size and bolt size for the pivot pins? It would save me a lot of trouble if I knew the exact size! Thanks, nate
It is 1/4".
Aloha Capt. Steve. Can you tell me what the "homemade tool" is? Thank you
Hi Lisa. The homemade tool is a simple wooden trolley to hold the drive when you remove the lateral pins.
I often take my time make proper tools when carrying out specific jobs because I have always believed the the right tool is the first key to succeding in what you are doing.
All the best.
Capt. Steve ...thank you 😁
I say this with constructive criticism. No offense!
Always remove the transmission first and only prior to attempting to remove the entire stern drive.
This opens up the area to easier access to the shift cable bracket, the S hose clamp, the drive shaft bellows, etc, not to mention how much less weight you will need to deal with.
When going back together, install the Intermediate housing/lower unit, and the transmission last!