Thanks, and yes my motor is UART version which is fully programable so I did the "soft tune" which re-configures the pedal assist in all levels really smoothing things out.
Why fluff around with that controller? I use a Phaserunner controller on my Bafang BBSHD and plan to use it on an Ultra next. It seems to be capable of 5kW which makes 1000w seem quite pathetic.
When you run an external controller you don't get the feedback form the peddles, basically just throttle control at that point. I also don't want too much power as I want the biek to still feel like a mountain bike, not a motor bike and I want to get some sort of decent distance from it. But an interesting way to go for sure.
The Phaserunner on a BBSHD is more the “electric motorcycle” experience. With a good torque sensor properly tuned, it’s more the “Superman on a bike” experience.
@@Excaliburt I bet, I like the feel of being on an actual Mountain Bike and having to do some of the work. When on MTB trails having all that power is kind of too much. I find I generally run lower power settings on tight trails because of this usually 2 or 3 out of 5. I always have my throttle which I can twist for full power on demand when needed even when in lower settings which can get me out of trouble if I picked a wrong gear or get caught on a steeper section than anticipated.
I got an empty Bafang frey am 3.0 frame that came with the ultra - can I just buy an ultra motor new and fit it and be done? Or do I need to calibrate it?
Thanks sooooo frikin much!!!! I was about to change my hall sensors, repack my battery change the battery connections..... But no I need to recalibrate my controller. Did you get instructions on how to use the new display to calibrate the battery? Thanks in Advance :)
Yes I did get instructions on how to sue the lcd screen to calibrate the motor. Unfortunately it didn't work for me so I am back to either a problem with the new controller or the motor itself.
@@getfitover40 here is a reply I got from my controller supplyer: "To be honest, the UART motor has no need to connect the Besst tool to calibrate it. According to one of our US customer, you can try to open the motor stator, adjust/rotate the rotor manually till you find the matching position that the motor won't shudder"
@@uxplore1 My controller burned out in a similar area and I kind of did what you did but took it into a place that actually replaced the tiny resistors, after I did get power to my screen but then had something else wrong with the controller as the hall sensor showed an error. I know the hall sensor is ok because when I put the new controller in I do not get an error.
It was a bit of a project for me, at a certain point once you are invested into it with time and money you need to go all the way, selling a partially finished not working bike would be a bad idea as I would get very little of my investment from it. The only thing to do at that point is get it working.
Great job Michael!
Thanks!
What fixed it for me is a clutch derailleur for my M620 motor since then it's way better but not perfect i just do paved paths
Nice video mate. I think you can configure the different levels the pedal assist kicks in.
Thanks, and yes my motor is UART version which is fully programable so I did the "soft tune" which re-configures the pedal assist in all levels really smoothing things out.
Curious where I can buy that plate if you have a link.
Nice video, thanks. I’ve done projects that turned out like that, so I feel your pain.
Not everything goes as planned :) But you usually learn something new...
You did a great job on the vid!
Thanks, I was more or less just video documenting as I went along.
Why fluff around with that controller? I use a Phaserunner controller on my Bafang BBSHD and plan to use it on an Ultra next. It seems to be capable of 5kW which makes 1000w seem quite pathetic.
When you run an external controller you don't get the feedback form the peddles, basically just throttle control at that point. I also don't want too much power as I want the biek to still feel like a mountain bike, not a motor bike and I want to get some sort of decent distance from it. But an interesting way to go for sure.
The Phaserunner on a BBSHD is more the “electric motorcycle” experience. With a good torque sensor properly tuned, it’s more the “Superman on a bike” experience.
@@Excaliburt I bet, I like the feel of being on an actual Mountain Bike and having to do some of the work. When on MTB trails having all that power is kind of too much. I find I generally run lower power settings on tight trails because of this usually 2 or 3 out of 5. I always have my throttle which I can twist for full power on demand when needed even when in lower settings which can get me out of trouble if I picked a wrong gear or get caught on a steeper section than anticipated.
Dear what price this ebike ?
Where did you buy this motor?
No grease?
I got an empty Bafang frey am 3.0 frame that came with the ultra - can I just buy an ultra motor new and fit it and be done? Or do I need to calibrate it?
New motor will come calibrated. Just install it in the frame.
Is your motor Canbus?
No it is UART
Thanks sooooo frikin much!!!! I was about to change my hall sensors, repack my battery change the battery connections..... But no I need to recalibrate my controller. Did you get instructions on how to use the new display to calibrate the battery? Thanks in Advance :)
Yes I did get instructions on how to sue the lcd screen to calibrate the motor. Unfortunately it didn't work for me so I am back to either a problem with the new controller or the motor itself.
@@getfitover40 here is a reply I got from my controller supplyer: "To be honest, the UART motor has no need to connect the Besst tool to calibrate it.
According to one of our US customer, you can try to open the motor stator, adjust/rotate the rotor manually till you find the matching position that the motor won't shudder"
@@getfitover40 I just fixed my shorted controller. I DONT know what i was doing but it worked. ua-cam.com/video/5TzwVqcB-io/v-deo.html
@@uxplore1 My controller burned out in a similar area and I kind of did what you did but took it into a place that actually replaced the tiny resistors, after I did get power to my screen but then had something else wrong with the controller as the hall sensor showed an error. I know the hall sensor is ok because when I put the new controller in I do not get an error.
Put some grease on those gears! Corn head grease.
OUCH, bummer putting a hole through that wire, that cough is nasty bro, damn it gets worse 😂 unlucky, all this calibration crap 😂
Why not just sell that bike and get a new Frey AM1000?
It was a bit of a project for me, at a certain point once you are invested into it with time and money you need to go all the way, selling a partially finished not working bike would be a bad idea as I would get very little of my investment from it. The only thing to do at that point is get it working.
Voltage =BHP Amps=TORQUE