Scottish winter climbing: Orion Face Direct (V, 5)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- In one legendary week on Ben Nevis in 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith climbed six first winter ascents on consecutive days, including the mini Alpine-route, Orion Face Direct. They also made the first one-day winter ascent of Point Five Gully, went for a long walk and got arrested over an incident with some dominoes! Exactly 50 years later Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner pay tribute to Smith and Marshall by setting out to repeat all the routes that were climbed in that famous week. This film tells the story of the original events and follows MacLeod and Turner as they discover exactly what an achievement it was.
This short film about Orion Face Direct is an extract from The Pinnacle, a film by Hotaches
www.hotaches.co...
We're the BMC. Climb walls, rock, hills, ice or mountains? Join us. www.thebmc.co....
Climbed it in 2013 as a team of 3 , we went wrong pitch 8 , the leader climbed a vertical ice wall with a gap in it , I fell off leaving axes above me on the stretchies , twice , a mate had to throw them down to me , I needed a sling over the shoulder and tug to get over the bulge , we then saw the easy proper pitch 8 , no more than grade 4 and 70 angle ( LOL ) , so much drag with 60m out that the leader , on a good peg belay did not even know I had fallen the best route of many I have ever done , finished in a storm and darkness and with damaged ankle from the falls and a ton of co codamol washing inside me to kill the pain
Climbed the route in 2005?, looking back now I just can't believe I used to climb to that standard. 'The' route of my climbing career in the UK. The following day three climbers had a real epic on it , I know at least one died and at the same time a chap died whilst trying to absiel off tower ridge. The route is really committing, I loved that. . Im in awe of the original climbers. Thanks for sharing. Excellent
Fantastic video. A bit of history, a bit of climbing, and good editing👌.
It is good, isn't it. Well done Hotaches.
Its an excerpt from the film "The Pinnacle". Definitely worth watching the entire thing
Climbed it 10 years ago, someone else mentioned below that watching this they can't believe they used to climb at this standard, my thoughts too. What a route, didn't feel too bad on the day but looking back at these videos it looks scary as hell!
I love it. I watched a few videos from Himalayan expeditions but I more enjoyed these” little ones”! I just feel to be like real-in even if I don’t do climbing .... it would be interesting to see how those “older” chaps were climbing without all the modern gears.... thank you for sharing! Really lovely stuff and the music has complete the feelings of the video.
Magnifico vídeo con una canción preciosa para una espectacular escalada,enhorabuena 👍🏻
Just amazing, always something I'd love to do.
Thanks, glad you liked it!
@@teamBMCTV e3covid 3 4 3 r r 4
Beautifull video for a beautifull rute! ♥️
Yep, it's a dream route.
Leashless. Respect for cojones. But I am SO not climbing Orion Direct leashless. One momentary slip, and you're looking at climbing Orion leashless *with one axe*. Which is right up there among my top ten things that are altogether not funny.
There again, given how much wreckage from past fails there seems to be at least low down on the route, maybe Dave and Andy were thinking that if they dropped one of their own axes, next minute they'd probably find someone else's...
The original climb done without specialist tools BTW.
“So there’ll be no falling off”. Lack off real protection on Scottish winter routes scares the cr@p out of me.
Great climb! I liked hearing what the old guard had to say, they were very interesting. That song nearly put me to sleep though.. Ride of the Valkyries would be more fitting ✋😌
what's with the overhanging camera angle? You can clearly see from a distance it's more like 80 degrees
That's what happens when you are filmed from an ab rope.
Thanks
Marshall and Smith, minimum gear, maximum balls.
Yep, imagine being on that face before modern gear...
Nice video, can you please share the title of the song, thanks.
I would love to know what this song is. It's great. Please let us know BMC.
Song is ua-cam.com/video/ze_aM2jKMM0/v-deo.html I was wondering too, it’s great.
Does anybody know the song or artist? Went well with the bit and was quite enjoyable
ua-cam.com/video/ze_aM2jKMM0/v-deo.html
😯 👏 👍🏻
Just my pen’orth- could do without the twee music. These are almost always better with just original sound imho