Scott was my nephew and we started ice climbing together almost 30 years ago. Ive never seen this video before and it brought back so many memories. The wild thing is I know that's not the craziest thing he's done and got away with. This video took me back and brought back so many memories. I miss that kid. NWS! Thanks for putting this up!
Scott was such an incredible person. I had the honor to spend an expedition in Pakistan with him and Kyle when they attempted Ogre II for the first time. We all attempted the Ogre II on the same weather window. Him and Kyle on one line, Jesse and I on a different line. None of us made to the summit but it was an incredible experience. It was the kind of climb alpinists like us can only dream of!
The sad thing is he’ll never get the message. He’s since passed away in a climbing accident. You can only pull that kinda shit so many times before the inevitable happens. Reminds me Marc Andre Leclerc.
Climbing is no joke snowflake. I e had many good people die close to me so don’t act like you shit about ANYTHING. Who the hell says wanker other than British people?? , and NOBODY gives a crap what you turds think lol Try again snowflake 😘
@@barryodonnell4860He died in a storm. Seems like half of Texas died in a storm a couple years ago. Get off the high horse. Also, we get it, you saw the alpinist and know about one climber. Very cool and insightful of you. 👍
Holy smokes ... I'll need a whole bottle of CBD to calm my nerves down!! What an incredible climber, belayer and footage!! Raw footage gives a better sense of time, difficulty, mood ... I hope you'll post more of these!! Thank you so much!!
God I mis Scott… one of a kind person. Didn’t know him personally, but one of my friends was close with him, and I remember starting out ice climbing he was such a huge inspiration to me.
You’re absolutely right, I’m Canadian but I may not have thought of that in the moment either. It’s something I’ll definitely take into consideration though and now I’m going to make a point MASTER the double rope system, not just “pretty much” know it.
Because the single not being lowered on would always be decreasing in length as it is taken in as opposed to the one being lowered on getting longer and longer as he is lowered equaling a lot longer distance to fall. All of that was pretty much a moot point as he stood a staggeringly high chance of hitting the ledge and shattering his legs or worse. @@aspzx
Yikes!!! That is one of the scariest things I've ever seen. One Thing that could have made it a little safer would have been if Scott had put a friction hitch on the ropes going back down to the belayer and clipped that into his harness. That way if the tool failed the friction hitch could isolate out the slack an make the whipper onto the cams smaller. I would have probably just left the cams... they are way cheaper than hospital bills!
I was thinking the same thing, leave the damn cam! It was keeping the rope from going anymore horizontal and in a situation like that, everything helps. Lol just wild.
Nice stuff. I'd love a go at Zion ice. The comments below regards better use of the double rope lowering off with backup line being taken in are valid. I've done it. However it is risky and deserves practice to smooth out the inevitable confusions and mishandlings. A better option for steep ice retreats is to carry either a Specter. Bulldog or even a Fiffi du Glace to do the lower off manouver on, and always clip in with a locker so you can flick it outward without fear of opening the gate, assuming you want to bother retrieving it. This also allows one to down climb with a top rope, and not load the anchor solely. I'm getting on now, and climb infrequently, so always assume I might have to back out of almost anything, thus I usually climb with a 3rd tool, a small hammer/pick to drive stuff home, spare 'disposable' rap-tat, and a few small maillons to link sketchy retreat anchors together. Also , and this is the most important point perhaps. A lower off is DOUBLE the load on the anchor. Abseiling off combined anchors or threads puts HALF the lower-off load on the things that are keeping you from falling. I've seen some of the other vids of Scott Adamson, and he is clearly a force of nature with guts, talent and very good technique. But... that knowing that 'today is not the day for this climb' is most definatly a sense/talent/skill to be carefully nurtured and trained. To be not afraid to back off is by far the most important survival skill in the climbing tool bag, and a big 'Well Done' to him for making the call. Hat's off also to all concerned, the belayer, the camerman, for keeping cool and collected, and thanks for posting the vid. A gem Mr Alstrin. (ps: Come to the UK and climb/film some Dry Ice... AKA chalk. You'd love it ) 😘
Few people mentioned here that he should have not clipped both ropes to the tool. That is correct but he should have also pulled out more slack on the rope clipped to the tool (so that it reaches the ledge), tie it off on a tool and abseil down himself while the belayer had him on a backup through the cams on a single rope. That way there is much less force on the tool itself, the angle of load on the tool is straight down, and the belayer has to deal with only one rope.
Really interesting: you as a filmer seem to be as committed as the climber. You both accepted the (probably fatal?) risk of the climb. You didn’t even talk to him, didn’t offer him help. You just held your camera at him, observing it with a 100% commitment. Neither did he want your help or your saving rope, he was going for it with full consequences. Crazy and beautiful video. Not saying that you did bad or good with your behavior it is simply just fascinating to observe.
We can't actually tell how close horizontally they were-it looks to be a minimum of 4 meters, but that's just spitballing. Besides, you don't know how sketchy a rope transfer can be unless you've actually done it. I have, and it is often super sketchy with just one person on the rope.
I climbed a few frozen waterfalls in Norway last year and it was one of the scariest but most wonderful things I've ever done, can highly recommend :) The stuff in this video is pretty insane though 😅 And what we did was relatively safe, even the most experienced ice climbers I've met told me most of this sport is only for insane people :D
@@B0K1T0 I‘m also a little bit into alpinism and usually waterfall ice is thick enough to set ice screws. Not comparable with the thin ice layer in the video above!
@@OGJacksoon yeah that was my point exactly, but maybe that didn't came out well through my comment 😅 But what I meant was that I was aware I just had a little taste of this crazy world, although was already pretty intense for me.
I tried climbing for three straight years. I loved it. I'm not really afraid of heights in general. But I could never get used to being very high up when climbing. I tried lol. Those heights we're just too much for my brain....
Serious question: Why didn't he just anchor to the camera-man and lower off camera man anchor? Obviously the camera person was anchored. A safer, although not textbook solution, would be to go in direct to your ice tools, pull up a bite of slack and toss to camera person. Camera guy just hard points the rope to his anchor/belay loop/ really anything, and climber is lowered to safety. A hell of a lot safer than lowering off ice tools. Only problem I see with this proposed solution is that maybe camera man too far away using zoom lens, and there is no way to get a rope or leash to climber
THAT WAS HARD TO WATCH I did a fife rest on my tool once on a pillar and strongly did not like that. Lowering off a tool is definitely a strategy that would make me so nervous so I would also be saying "lower me the F down!" haha
I gave this a thumbs-up for being a phenomenal video documenting a fantastic ice climb and ice climber! Having said that And after 45 years of avid rock climbing myself Just how is this not foolhardy risk? Like ALL of it?
Great shoot. I think it missed out a little by doing only closeup while he was doing that crazy run out above the ledge, and then we got the situation after he put some pro in. Though I don't know about that pro. I wouldn't trust most stuff that looked like that.
That was pretty fucking insane. Amazing footage! Could you not have helped him bail? Without any other choice, it would have been better to rap using one of the ropes from the tool, while on belay on the other. I would definitly have left the cam and gone down using that when reaching it...
It's a long time before he gets any gear in, and there doesn't look to be much point trying for a screw in that ice. If he comes off before he gets the placement, he's looking at a broken leg followed by a bounce off the ledge below him. Ugh.
Why not to rappel on just one rope to have way less slack in the case the ice tool fails?!? It's a little more complicated for the belayer but totally doable
dude clip only one rope to the ice axe to lower. Then the friend will protect you if the ice axe rips while lowering. The way you do it clipping both ropes to it, you will for sure hit the deck if it rips... nice to have such steel nerves but it is even nicer to know what you are doing, specially when playing with fire (or thin ice in this case)
There is so much about this that makes no sense to me ! The obvious, why did he clip both double ropes to the tool ? LAME ! Why was he climbing an unprotectable smear when he traversed right under a solid column ? I could go on and on...
the only options (not including help from the camera person) were downclimbing or what he did. the ice was too thin to use ice screws and there was no other option to place gear. he maybe could've tried to venture to the crack on the left.
Scott was my nephew and we started ice climbing together almost 30 years ago. Ive never seen this video before and it brought back so many memories. The wild thing is I know that's not the craziest thing he's done and got away with. This video took me back and brought back so many memories. I miss that kid. NWS! Thanks for putting this up!
Scott was such an incredible person. I had the honor to spend an expedition in Pakistan with him and Kyle when they attempted Ogre II for the first time. We all attempted the Ogre II on the same weather window. Him and Kyle on one line, Jesse and I on a different line. None of us made to the summit but it was an incredible experience. It was the kind of climb alpinists like us can only dream of!
Best advertise for Grivel Tech MACHINE ever
Incredible footage. The dude had nerves and calves of steel.
don't forget the arms !!! 🥶
Ive seen a lot of climbing footage at this point but this was truly nuts! What a legend!
Have you seen this guy in Desert Ice? Dude.
God Damn dude. I been ice climbing for almost 30 years. That is by far the sketchiest and balliest bail I've ever see. My hat is off to you my friend.
The sad thing is he’ll never get the message. He’s since passed away in a climbing accident. You can only pull that kinda shit so many times before the inevitable happens. Reminds me Marc Andre Leclerc.
Spoken line a true wanker. Well done.
Climbing is no joke snowflake. I e had many good people die close to me so don’t act like you shit about ANYTHING. Who the hell says wanker other than British people?? , and NOBODY gives a crap what you turds think lol
Try again snowflake 😘
@@barryodonnell4860He died in a storm. Seems like half of Texas died in a storm a couple years ago. Get off the high horse.
Also, we get it, you saw the alpinist and know about one climber. Very cool and insightful of you. 👍
It was a storm. On a mountain but yes, a storm.
One of the finest climbers/alpinists of his generation in his element, thanks for this video
Holy smokes ... I'll need a whole bottle of CBD to calm my nerves down!!
What an incredible climber, belayer and footage!! Raw footage gives a better sense of time, difficulty, mood ... I hope you'll post more of these!!
Thank you so much!!
God I mis Scott… one of a kind person. Didn’t know him personally, but one of my friends was close with him, and I remember starting out ice climbing he was such a huge inspiration to me.
He was a legend.
Americans don’t understand safe double rope use. Lowering off one while taking in the other would have been far less risky.
such a good point
You’re absolutely right, I’m Canadian but I may not have thought of that in the moment either. It’s something I’ll definitely take into consideration though and now I’m going to make a point MASTER the double rope system, not just “pretty much” know it.
Why would it have been less risky?
Because the single not being lowered on would always be decreasing in length as it is taken in as opposed to the one being lowered on getting longer and longer as he is lowered equaling a lot longer distance to fall. All of that was pretty much a moot point as he stood a staggeringly high chance of hitting the ledge and shattering his legs or worse. @@aspzx
Quite right but he is still bad arse cool head !!!!!
You can keep all the bolted “dry tool” routes…this is REAL ice climbing! What a great display of both physical ability and mental strength!
RIP to this badass, climb on in the sky. NWS 🤙🏼
?
@@noiseforthealgorithm4668 Scott Adamson is dead in mountain in 2016.
oh..sorry to hear...Rip@@RobouVideos
bloody hell Chris, you kept your cool there filming. Great piece of history right there
Ice climbers are CRAZY!
This sport definitely does not seem safe! 😳
God damn I was chalking up just sitting here... and my calfs were sooooooo pumped!! You da Man!!
Yikes!!! That is one of the scariest things I've ever seen. One Thing that could have made it a little safer would have been if Scott had put a friction hitch on the ropes going back down to the belayer and clipped that into his harness. That way if the tool failed the friction hitch could isolate out the slack an make the whipper onto the cams smaller. I would have probably just left the cams... they are way cheaper than hospital bills!
I was thinking the same thing, leave the damn cam! It was keeping the rope from going anymore horizontal and in a situation like that, everything helps. Lol just wild.
ya... get to the cams, go in direct, whip out the tool then lower off the cams..
Then you’re littering. Nobody needs to see old climbing gear left behind. Leave no trace
@@LightYagamiVSL not a big deal
Nice stuff. I'd love a go at Zion ice. The comments below regards better use of the double rope lowering off with backup line being taken in are valid. I've done it. However it is risky and deserves practice to smooth out the inevitable confusions and mishandlings. A better option for steep ice retreats is to carry either a Specter. Bulldog or even a Fiffi du Glace to do the lower off manouver on, and always clip in with a locker so you can flick it outward without fear of opening the gate, assuming you want to bother retrieving it. This also allows one to down climb with a top rope, and not load the anchor solely. I'm getting on now, and climb infrequently, so always assume I might have to back out of almost anything, thus I usually climb with a 3rd tool, a small hammer/pick to drive stuff home, spare 'disposable' rap-tat, and a few small maillons to link sketchy retreat anchors together. Also , and this is the most important point perhaps. A lower off is DOUBLE the load on the anchor. Abseiling off combined anchors or threads puts HALF the lower-off load on the things that are keeping you from falling. I've seen some of the other vids of Scott Adamson, and he is clearly a force of nature with guts, talent and very good technique. But... that knowing that 'today is not the day for this climb' is most definatly a sense/talent/skill to be carefully nurtured and trained. To be not afraid to back off is by far the most important survival skill in the climbing tool bag, and a big 'Well Done' to him for making the call. Hat's off also to all concerned, the belayer, the camerman, for keeping cool and collected, and thanks for posting the vid. A gem Mr Alstrin. (ps: Come to the UK and climb/film some Dry Ice... AKA chalk. You'd love it ) 😘
thanks for the info
The camera guy could have bailed him out? IDK but why not? What's to prove at that point?
Few people mentioned here that he should have not clipped both ropes to the tool. That is correct but he should have also pulled out more slack on the rope clipped to the tool (so that it reaches the ledge), tie it off on a tool and abseil down himself while the belayer had him on a backup through the cams on a single rope. That way there is much less force on the tool itself, the angle of load on the tool is straight down, and the belayer has to deal with only one rope.
Really interesting: you as a filmer seem to be as committed as the climber. You both accepted the (probably fatal?) risk of the climb. You didn’t even talk to him, didn’t offer him help. You just held your camera at him, observing it with a 100% commitment. Neither did he want your help or your saving rope, he was going for it with full consequences. Crazy and beautiful video. Not saying that you did bad or good with your behavior it is simply just fascinating to observe.
We can't actually tell how close horizontally they were-it looks to be a minimum of 4 meters, but that's just spitballing. Besides, you don't know how sketchy a rope transfer can be unless you've actually done it. I have, and it is often super sketchy with just one person on the rope.
One of the most intense videos I’ve seen
Incredible footage!!! - reminds me of a section on the Canadian Rockies route "Slipstream" .
best video on youtube right now
Thanks!
Now that was gripping!
Awesome footage.....great coolness from all involved......so ballsy 👍👍👍👍
I’m not an expert on ice climbing but trying to climb up such a thin layer of ice without having possibilitys to place some solid gear is crazy
It is crazy but insanely impressive mentally. Love to see it
I climbed a few frozen waterfalls in Norway last year and it was one of the scariest but most wonderful things I've ever done, can highly recommend :)
The stuff in this video is pretty insane though 😅
And what we did was relatively safe, even the most experienced ice climbers I've met told me most of this sport is only for insane people :D
@@B0K1T0 I‘m also a little bit into alpinism and usually waterfall ice is thick enough to set ice screws. Not comparable with the thin ice layer in the video above!
@@OGJacksoon yeah that was my point exactly, but maybe that didn't came out well through my comment 😅 But what I meant was that I was aware I just had a little taste of this crazy world, although was already pretty intense for me.
What a scary movie, impressive.
absolutely gripping!
I tried climbing for three straight years. I loved it. I'm not really afraid of heights in general. But I could never get used to being very high up when climbing. I tried lol. Those heights we're just too much for my brain....
Pure mastery
Serious question: Why didn't he just anchor to the camera-man and lower off camera man anchor? Obviously the camera person was anchored. A safer, although not textbook solution, would be to go in direct to your ice tools, pull up a bite of slack and toss to camera person. Camera guy just hard points the rope to his anchor/belay loop/ really anything, and climber is lowered to safety. A hell of a lot safer than lowering off ice tools. Only problem I see with this proposed solution is that maybe camera man too far away using zoom lens, and there is no way to get a rope or leash to climber
To qualify the ice.....is it safe or a gamble??? The eternal challenge of the climber !
RIP Scott
Can't stop watching....
that was crazy, man take this 👍🏼
THAT WAS HARD TO WATCH
I did a fife rest on my tool once on a pillar and strongly did not like that. Lowering off a tool is definitely a strategy that would make me so nervous so I would also be saying "lower me the F down!" haha
Sketchy and scary. God damn man. 🙌🏽
I gave this a thumbs-up for being a phenomenal video documenting a fantastic ice climb and ice climber!
Having said that
And after 45 years of avid rock climbing myself
Just how is this not foolhardy risk? Like ALL of it?
Someone’s gotta push the limits
Rest in Power
Most fuking crazy ice climbing video ever. Holy
Crazy climb. To see this thin ice without any protection and thinking it is climbable needs an real brave climber
Why didn't the cameraman just lower him the static line???
As the camera guy I never interfere or help the climber unless asked.
Literally on thin ice!
Oh NOW it’s sketchy
Good climber insane method
RIP scott
Great shoot. I think it missed out a little by doing only closeup while he was doing that crazy run out above the ledge, and then we got the situation after he put some pro in. Though I don't know about that pro. I wouldn't trust most stuff that looked like that.
"sweet let's top rope this thing!"
Thick ice for Camden Me which sits a mile from the Atlantic.
I think I'd just bail off the videographers line at that point. Happy to see him clip that equalized piece. Ughhh, hairy!
good lord.
That was pretty fucking insane. Amazing footage! Could you not have helped him bail? Without any other choice, it would have been better to rap using one of the ropes from the tool, while on belay on the other. I would definitly have left the cam and gone down using that when reaching it...
It's a long time before he gets any gear in, and there doesn't look to be much point trying for a screw in that ice. If he comes off before he gets the placement, he's looking at a broken leg followed by a bounce off the ledge below him. Ugh.
Looking at all the ice screws racked on his harness, I'm thinking that's pretty optimistic. Ice is soooo thin.
That looks like a pretty hard route
Why not to rappel on just one rope to have way less slack in the case the ice tool fails?!? It's a little more complicated for the belayer but totally doable
dude clip only one rope to the ice axe to lower. Then the friend will protect you if the ice axe rips while lowering. The way you do it clipping both ropes to it, you will for sure hit the deck if it rips... nice to have such steel nerves but it is even nicer to know what you are doing, specially when playing with fire (or thin ice in this case)
dude i thought the comments were exaggerating but holy shit lolll
rip
Holy shit
I've only been ice climbing once,but that looked way sketchy.
Basically free soloing.
balls of steel
wow
Solved the situation and had the courage to back down - that was good. But why didn't you see that there weren't enough backup options?
Good thing its shitty sandstone and you can dig that ice pick about 2 inches into the sandstone on each pick! hahahahaha
this is psycho. what did i just watch
More or less suicidal.
man.,..there was a much safer way
Please elaborate
Was down climbing not possible? I think it would be much safer to carefully downclimb
Ever try editing ?
Never heard of it
How did he get his 10,000 lb balls up there?
🤣🙈
There is so much about this that makes no sense to me ! The obvious, why did he clip both double ropes to the tool ? LAME ! Why was he climbing an unprotectable smear when he traversed right under a solid column ? I could go on and on...
Yeah...... because they obviously didn't see the column...... god I hate what has happened to climbing and "climbers"....
if the axe falls the belay breaks for sure, and the two are dead! never do that
Hi amazing .
Can anyone explain to me the latest technique used to lower yourself? was there no other way?
the only options (not including help from the camera person) were downclimbing or what he did. the ice was too thin to use ice screws and there was no other option to place gear. he maybe could've tried to venture to the crack on the left.