West Coast Mountain Guides - Orion Face Direct, Ben Nevis
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2017
- Alan Kimber, IFMGA Mountain Guide and founder of West Coast Mountain Guides talks us through a winter ascent of one of the finest (and longest) winter ice climbs in the UK, Orion Face Direct. It's a 9 pitch route that takes a direct line right to the summit of Ben Nevis, in the Scottish Highlands.
We guide Orion Direct on our Advanced Winter Climbing Courses, CIC Hut Weeks and Private Mountain Guiding. For further information, please visit: www.westcoast-mountainguides....
A nice route for Scotland - - much longer and more serious than I always imagined climbing in the British Isles to be - I knew Scotland was really the home of climbing in the region but I never imagined such long Alpine ice routes - In fact, it was a couple of old Scottish fellas who established the first routes at what is now my local crag. According to the guidebook they put them up way back in the early 70s. You can still see a couple of old knife blades they used at the cruxes of two of their climbs - both under quite difficult roofs and both rated at 10a. The consensus these days is that they are 10d or 11a and all trad with some freaky run outs!........anyway, cheers and well-done ladies!
Haha, Scotland has a fair few hidden gems and surprises up its sleeve. Creag Meagaidh also boasts its share of long and committing ice routes too, comparable to those found on Ben Nevis.
Id love to have ago at ice climbing one day, looks amazing!
Looked like a good day out. Chuckled at the critical comments, anyone who climbs a long route and does everything perfectly is a fibber. Easy to criticise.
8:36 reminded me of having my collarbone broken on Hogmanay by falling ice. It was invigorating descent.
Nice one.
Greetings from the Canadian Rockies and great looking route! Just wanted to mention that right around the 10:07 mark that the knob on your screw at the anchor was still open. I know it sounds pedantic, but apparently in a fall the knob can act as a cheese grater and do a number to your rope. For an accident report see: coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/01/be-attentive-when-placing-ice-screws.html?m=1
Climb safe out there everyone!
Hi, thanks for the observation. Yep, I would agree with you that making sure that the handle is folded out the way once the screw has been placed is important.
If this was in France it would be bolted
Could use a little technique course in swing, kicking and placing screws
2:47 😬