How To Fix Noisy Whirlpool Washer: Spin Cycle Noise Solution Guide
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- Опубліковано 27 січ 2024
- In this detailed video, I solve an uncommon problem with older Whirlpool washers - a terrible noise during the end of the spin cycle. Watch as I meticulously dismantle the machine, uncovering the root cause: damaged ears on the spin tube which led to a stripped spin block. Step by step, I guide you through the diagnosis and the intricate process of replacing both the spin tube and drive block. This repair guide is a must-watch for DIY enthusiasts and homeowners facing similar washer issues. Whether you're a seasoned repair expert or new to appliance maintenance, this video offers valuable insights and practical tips to tackle this challenging repair.
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Thanks for watching! - Навчання та стиль
Attention Chip...
Thanks for posting all these great videos! I've really learned a lot about my washing machine and the tools and techniques you use to repair them by watching your videos. Your workshop setup is great, too.
I've got a head-scratcher of a problem with my old-school Kenmore 90 Series top-load, direct drive washer I'm hoping you may be able to help me out with. When the machine starts to spin, there's a rapid clicking noise that starts out fairly loud, but gets quieter and slower over the first 20 seconds or and disappears entirely as the machine comes up to full speed. The clicking is speed-related, in that it's a slower tempo on slow spin than on fast spin. I've checked everything I can think of and still can't figure it out. Machine otherwise runs exactly as it should through all agitate speeds, drain, and both spin speeds.
Background: Machine is over 25 years old and, until recently, had been running like a champ. I had to replace a lid switch a year or so ago, but otherwise no issues. Couple months ago it started sounding really bad and eventually gave out completely (motor bearing failed). Since then, my repair project has turned into more of a restoration project as I'd rather get this old school machine renewed than buy a new one full of electronics. Things I've replaced in the last couple months:
-motor & starting capacitor (new OEM)
-drain pump (new OEM--the old one was leaking out the shaft and I think that's what killed the motor bearing)
-motor coupling
-clutch assembly & corresponding brake cam lever
-springs (all 4)
-wear pads (both sets of 3)
-agitator dogs
-rebuilt transmission with OEM neutral drain kit (while watching your video on how to do this step-by-step, thanks a ton!)
Model # is 110.26914691
Any ideas/thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Mike in Guam
I would suspect the clicking sound is the centrifugal switch in the motor. A single-phase AC motor has a centrifugal switch inside its case, which is attached to the engine shaft. When the engine is off and motionless, the switch is closed.
When the engine is switched on, the switch drives electricity to the capacitor and the extra coil winding in the motor, increasing its starting torque. As the motor’s revolutions increase per minute, the switch opens, as the motor no longer needs a boost.
A centrifugal switch solves a problem associated with single-phase AC electric motors. They do not develop enough torque on their own to start turning from a dead stop.
A circuit switches on the centrifugal switch, providing the requisite boost to start the motor. The switch turns off the boost circuit once the motor reaches its running speed, and the motor runs normally. It sounds like your motor is spinning up to speed but when the start winding kicks out it slows enough to reengage the centrifugal switch and that’s what you are hearing. Something is causing a drag on the motor or you may have gotten a bad motor. When I encounter this problem most of the time changing the motor fixes the problem. Thanks for watching!
@@HarperandKnowles Chip, thanks for the speedy response and advice. I've already checked the motor start switch for proper operation during all the agitate speeds with a clamp-on ammeter on the various wires for the different speed winding and start winding. In those cases, the start winding is only drawing current briefly (~1 second) during motor start, as you'd expect, then going to 0 amps. Next time I have the case off, I'll check the start winding during the beginning of the spin cycle to see if it's being intermittently engaged during spin-up. I'd guess if it was something in the motor I would see this during agitate too (same speed, different direction of rotation)? I've inspected the whole spin mechanism and can't see any obvious problem that would be causing drag there: brakes are not sticking, drive block slots are not worn and are solidly engaged with spin tube ears, new clutch, new motor coupling, rebuilt transmission, no obstructions between the spin drum and tub. I even tried pulling the drain pump off the motor shaft to rule that out--no change in the noise.
Thanks again for all your help!
Got my gas dryer going again. Thanks for your help.
Good deal Kevin, that motor worked!
Another great video.
I was in Mamou Friday replacing a drain pump on a washer. At the time I didn’t realize how close I was to you.
Hey hey! Grand Mamou! Just down the road about 23 miles. Where are you from?
@@HarperandKnowles I live just outside of Lafayette near Milton, LA.
If you ever find yourself in Oakdale stop by the shop and see me. Thanks for reaching out!
@@HarperandKnowles Thank you Chip. Next time I am up that way I will definitely stop to say hello.
Shane Scott
Another great video
Thanks man!
yo sir your videos are amazing, thank you for all the free knowledge
do you think this clutch will slip under heavy loads? is it meant to sound like this at the end when you spin it up dry?
Oh, yeah. It is designed to slip until the basket matches the motor speed.
yeah sounds like it needs some more attention these are not normal sounds for an fsp direct drive + that spin brake is not working
Thanks for watching!
You forgot to put in retaining skrews in the motor mount clip/braket.
No, I never put those back in. They are there for shipping. Never had one come loose without them and they are annoying on service calls in tight places. Thanks for watching!
This Lady reminds me of myself. We are attached to our old machines, like my old Kitchenaid. Mine is still outside due to the mysterious leak. I finally got the spanner you suggested. I hope it fits. I also got a new spin block. After seeing this upload I fear the leak is coming from the upper seal of the spin tube. Is it possible to replace the upper seal without having to remove the whole assembly from the bottom of the machine? Do you have upload for how to relace the seals and how to make a bypass lid switch? Thank you
Here is one for replacing seals. How To Fix Leaks in Your Washing Machine: Identifying & Replacing Defective Seals
ua-cam.com/video/0yNdX69zU7s/v-deo.html and here is one for bypasses. How To Create Lid & Door Switch Bypasses for Washer/Dryer Diagnostics
ua-cam.com/video/o4oVvEAp__U/v-deo.html. Thanks for watching!
that is exactly my machine last week I changed the transmission out on it and repaired the old one witha nes neutral drain gear kit and new oil as aspare...
but my drum is stuck and I could not get it out....
If you watch this video Easy DIY Fix: Learn My Secrets Of Doing A Gearbox Swap To Restore A Broken Washing Machine
ua-cam.com/video/Ck1e3j7XCl4/v-deo.html at about the 6:03 mark I explain how to remove a tub. I also have other videos where I use a special made puller to get them out.
Good thinking on repairing the old transmission, even though you put in a new one. That new one might fail quickly because unfortunately, new factory transmissions from Whirlpool for these washers are of lower quality. The story I've heard floating around is that the tooling or whatever that they use to cast them is aged and they don't want to invest in re-upping the tooling since this design hasn't been made in years. I'm not sure how true this is but it's what I've heard from several sources. Anyhow, I hope you have better luck with your new trans than I did, mine started leaking oil after just over a year. Seems that it's always better to repair an older trans so that you're just replacing the worn parts but keeping the actual gearcase which, presumably, was made better back in the day.