Honda CR-V Serpentine Belt Installation 2007 - 2011 in a half hour with no special tools
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- How to install a serpentine belt in a 2007 - 2011 Honda CR-V using no special tools in about a half hour and under $30. Mine is a 2009 CR-V. I used a Goodyear 4070690 Gatorback Poly-V Belt obtained from Amazon Prime which was a perfect fit.
I hope this video will save you time and money!
Robert-Thank you for posting this. Very well done. This was my first serpentine belt job on my wife's 2011 CRV. Two quick points-first, if you buy the belt locally, most auto parts stores will lend you the tensioner tool. I'm a little leery of relying on the ratchet-even if it's a 1/2"!- and with the amount of force involved, use a 6-point instead of a 12-point #14 combination wrench if one's available. Second, my son and I were finagling around with it for a little while, and getting frustrated. We noticed that the water pump pulley isn't flanged, so we put the belt around the alternator pulley, my son pulled back on the tensioner, and the belt slipped right over the water pump pulley -Done! Great video, thanks again for posting. Seamus
Awesome tip! My son and I are getting ready to do his on his 2004 CR-V
Excellent video. I've made my living as a mechanic for the last 31 years. This is the calm and concise demeanor that adds credibility to our profession. Keep up the good work.
Good comment
very nice comment!
14mm wrench and a 1/2" ratchet -- that my friend is pure genius! Thank you for taking the time to post this, probably saved me from an aneurysm! :~)
Team awesomeness!
I have changed a bunch of serpentine belts over the years. This is by far the most difficult belt I have ever done (2009 CRV) Getting the tensioner tool over the bolt it so difficult because the frame rail is so close. Thank you for the video.
I followed your excellent instructions and changed the serpentine belt for the first time on my 125K miles 2002 CRV. I tried to put the belt around the last pulley (alternator) from the top but it was difficult because I didn't want to damage the belt by poking it too hard with a screw driver. Just like another commentator below, I ended up routing the belt on the crank pulley from below while my wife was pulling on the wrench from the top. It took 5 seconds to put the belt on. I highly recommend that one should borrow a second hand (from wife, kid, neighbor...) for 5 seconds to make this job a piece of cake. Thanks again for your great video.
This video was great, but I ran into the same problem as you. I couldn't slide the belt onto the alternator because it was too tight, nor the smooth water pump pulley because the car body was in the way. Your comment had me go grab my wife to pull the tensioner then I just slid the belt onto the huge crank pulley. It still took a lot of muscle and both hands but it slid right on. Thanks for your comment!
Love the trick with the 1/2" ratchet on the combination wrench! Very tight working quarters and that worked great thank you!
Agreed! Nice method - thank you.
Yup, just got mine off pretty easily .
Nice presentation. I did a friend's CR-V last year and if I remember correctly it was the water pump pulley that slid the last part of the belt in. Also, in case this might be helpful, the following belts should also fit this CR-V:
Bando 7PK1755
ACDelco 7K690
Gates K070690
Cheers!
I always was a bit slow - it took me about 90 minutes to change out my 2007 Honda CR-V serpentine belt. But I saved $210 by doing it myself instead of allowing the Honda dealership to do it. Thanks Robert.
I just finished my belt. Argued with using a specific belt wrench but after 2 hours I got nowhere. Thought I'd give the 2 wrench method a last try. 5 mins later done. You saved me on a very important day
As long as I have used UA-cam, I had not left any comments beyond giving thumbs up or down. That is till now. I am happy to make this my inaugural comment. This video was a concise account of the steps necessary to get the job done. I can’t wait to change the belt on my CRV. Thanks so much!
rolds13 Thanks for the kind words, glad it was of use.
This is one of the best do it yourself videos I’ve seen. Clear voice instructions, excellent camera work and lighting, helpful diagram to show position of belt and very useful tips for installation, even included the part number and where to purchase. Thank you for making this well thought out video.
So well done! The alternator on my 2009 CRV crapped out last night when I was 50 miles from home. Had to go back with my flatbed trailer to haul it home. Your video will be a great help in installing a new Alternator. Lots of great tips...Thank you so much!
Great Video.... This worked for us. Put the belt on the Water Pump pulley last. (smooth outer edge). One person releases the tension and on slips the belt on the Pump pulley. No idler lips the overcome.
You're the man:
a) For the video itself
b) For doing the installation and videoing at the same time.
Good work!
One-handed at that!
Thank You for the great video, very helpful! I had trouble keeping the belt aligned on the A/C Comp. pulley while attempting to pull it over the alternator pulley as recommended in the video (trying to do it alone while holding the tensioner off). Finally gave up on that and lined up all the upper pulleys up then had the wife hold the tensioner off while I slipped it around the crank pulley from below... mucho easier!
The open-end wrench & ratchet approach is perfect for the CR-V. I replaced the alternator today and while attempting to remove the belt started off trying to use a serpentine belt tool but wasn’t making any headway due to the location of the CR-V’s tensioner. I pulled up your video in the garage and had the belt off in no time. Thank you!
My man, i spent like 30 minutes trying to use a 14 mm and another bigger wrench for leverage. I soon i saw your video, and i said Hallelujah!!!
I was able to put back the belt over the pulley under one minute. Im so grateful for your video. Thanks again, amigo!!!!
Woot!
Excellent instructional video. My experience was not as easy as others. My new belt was quite stiff, and had bends from being in the packaging. Things that I did differently, after first following the video instructions, without success. To gain a bit more access I removed the bracket for the power steering reservoir. Once I had the belt around all of the lower pulleys including the alternator, I placed a piece of folded cardboard (8x8 in) between the pulleys and the inner fender. Since I was working alone, I used a ratchet strap hooked to a point in front of the vehicle, to pull the wrenches on the tensioner to hold it open. I brought all of the slack to the front side of the power steering pulley, and caught the edge holding down with my hand. I then used a 19 mm socket to rotate the ps pulley counter clockwise and it pulled the belt right around the pulley!
Great video. Nice to see the whole job before tackling it.
One issue. For me, on a 2011 CRV with a new Continental Elite belt, there was no way I was going to get the new belt around the alternator as the last pulley. What worked was to keep it off the smooth water pump pulley, and slide it on from underneath... The smooth pulley (rather than grooved) allows the belt to slide on. Obviously with another pair of hands holding the tensioner. YMMV, as different belts may be slightly different in size. Try it from on top first, and if that doesn't work, try it from below.
Thanks for taking the time for posting the video.
Great comment, thanks.
I tried it and it works. The only issue I see is that it causes a lot more slack and chances for the belt to "slip" in other places. I had to stop and put the belt back onto the crank belt as well as the psteering pump. It's definitely requires less tension than when you want to put it around the alternator.
Not much of a mechanic myself with today's cars, so asked my "instant oil change" place to do this on my CRV. (as they advertised) Had two guys on the job and they threw up their hands up at it after only about 15-20mins. I'm done going to that place! Excellent video btw!
Excellent video and I followed it to the tee without any issues until the end. Getting the new belt onto the alternator pulley was almost impossible. Instead, as someone else had mentioned, I put it on the PS pump pulley last and that was a breeze. Thank you for the helpful tips.
That was amazingly clear. You definitely know how to present things in a methodical fashion. I've got to replace the alternator on my 2014 CRV and I was wondering if I need to replace the belt at the same time. Clearly the belt can be changed in a separate procedure. Many thanks. You have a great future making do-it-yourself surgery videos. Think about it.
Thank you for such an easy to follow tutorial. The only hiccup I had was that the tensioner bolt was actually a 15mm. It was replaced previously so perhaps the aftermarket part varied from the OEM. Anyway, excellent video!
Wow, so easy! I was a bit hesitant to take on this task because of how little room there is to work, but it really was 30 minutes, no special tools, and no special skills!. I did detach the power steering reservoir and disconnect one hose to give me a bit more room. After that it was straightforward like in the video. I had my helper take out the slack from the top, and I slipped the belt on the crank.
Thank you for the video and all the tips!
I'm going on a full day! Can't get it around alt pulley!!
Thanks for the procedure and the advice.
I installed the belt in a few minutes from the power steering pulley after trying several times without success from the alternator pulley.
Previously, I temporarily tied the belt to the crank shaff pulley with a tie wrap to prevent it from misaligning.
I have a 2010 EX CRV. I bought the serpentine belt from the dealership because I wanted a genuine part. The Honda part number is 56992-REZ-A01. However, the inscriptions on the belt indicate that it is a Bando belt (model 7PK1745) available at a lower cost on the web or elsewhere.
Replacing the special tool with a wrench and a ratchet is awesome. Also, the idea of tying the 2 straps together when replacing is great.
Thanks for the great video. That's the tightest belt I've ever encountered. I wound up using a 14 mm offset box wrench which works well with the recessed nut on the tensioner. I used a 2x4 on the wrench to get the leverage I needed. Worked well.
Awesome video! The trick using the breaker bar with the 14mm wrench works like a champ. One thing to note: get the belt started on everything except the water pump (smooth) pulley. That's the easiest to slide the belt over. Also, if the belt doesn't seem to want to fit, tap the starter a little bit (making sure fingers are away!) which will take the slack out, allowing the belt to easily slip on the water pump pulley.
There are so many good things about this video. The fact Robert shows you that you don't need to take off the tire to do this. the best part is he give you the best advise on how to pull the new belt through the card. The little tid bit save me hours! Thanks Robert for such a helpful video. DEfinitely got this done in 30 minutes....The best tool thought to get the belt on from the top is an 18 rolling head pry bar. Best tool to get that stinkin belt back onto the Alternator... Cheers!
youre a genius with the 1/2 inch ratchet coupled to the 14mm open end wrench. ive not ever seen that im 18 years in the business.
Thanks for the advice! I just priced this at a local chain in North Texas and the charge for the belt was $60! Labor was an additional $155. Your video just saved me a load of $$$!!!
You a better man than me if you did this job in 1/2 hour, needed an extra set of hands for a 2010 CRV. Used your technique to loosen the tensioner. I don't think you can get any other tools in there. Thanks for your help.
Very nicely explained and demonstrated. Please keep this video online. It will help a lot more people.
I have not seen such a concise instructional video. Thank you so much for sharing such a great video!
The video itself is good and the tip about using a wrench and a 1/2" socket to provide more room to decompress the tensioner was excellent. That being said, the process was much more difficult than the video implies because the two screws that hold the power steering reservoir in place were tight and would actually bend the bottom of the bracket when trying to loosen them. I could get on the bottom side of the bracket on one side with needle nose pliers to keep it from bending to break one of the screws loose but the other one was impossible. Ended up disconnecting the reservoir from the bracket using the clip that holds it in place on the bracket, but you still can't really move the reservoir out of the way very good because there is a hose clip around one of the hoses that limits movement that I could not get to open up and was afraid to pry and break it. Had to remove the two screws that hold the whole bracket in place to provide more room but the bracket/reservoir are never truly out of the way. Also, I originally bought a replacement belt from NAPA (which is supposed to be a Gates belt). The belt was about a centimeter shorter than the original and was impossible to get on. I previously had a similar problem with a Dayco belt for a Toyota Camry. In both cases I ended up using Bando belts (who OEM to many Japan auto makers). Their belts are "true-to-size" and they went on much better. I can't provide specific feedback regarding longevity of the belts yet , but I have read review after review of folks having issues with replacement belts being too tight and some even broke their tensioners trying to get more clearance. I would highly recommend the Bando belts because they are sized correctly.
Yes bando are the best. And will never squeal.
Easy to understand step by step instructions with no shortcuts! You Sir have my respect, thank you.
I'm not sure what the engineers were thinking when they left such little clearance around the idler pulley. I've changed quite a few drive belts before but none took me as long as this one. I managed to slide it on to the idler pulley last. Had one hand pulling on the tensioner and managed after ages to get my fingers of the other hand to slide the belt on to the idler. I felt like there wasn't enough slack to slide it over the alternator pulley. Setup for me was a long 14mm ring spanner with a 18mm deep socket and breaker bar on the end of it (not perfect but it worked). Hope I won't have to do that again anytime soon.
Robert, Thank you. You saved me today. I had a serpentine belt tool from HF but just couldn't get it into a position on the tensioner pulley where I could pull on it. The wrench/ratchet combo worked like a charm!
Thank you great explanation!!! 👍 👏 👏 👏 As a women learning cars and saving money I come to you tube and learn and one thing I like is someone who knows their stuff. Your explanation is spot on it really easy to watch ur videos Big Thank you . Catey
Thank you for posting this Robert, it was most kind and generous of you. Your tensioner tip is excellent as my tensioner tool was completely useless. Awesome video.
Excellent video. You explained as a professional. I like when people like you take detail time to help people. Thank Mr. Robert Most.
Man, thank you SO much for this video. I just swapped out the belt on my 2011 CR-V following what you said, and it was a cinch. The tips you mentioned: zip tie the new belt to the old belt, and route the new belt over the alternator last while pulling on the belt tensioner... that saved SO much time and headache, and got the job done much easier. If the belts werent tied together, it would have made the job MUCH more difficult. And as "YardpigTSI" mentioned: using the combo wrench with a ratchet on the tensioner nut in that tight location... genius. Really excellent video!! Thanks again!!
Thanks for the help, just did mine. Its worth noting to re-install the power steering reservoir before you fire it up to test the belt....I had it sideways and half my fluid spilled over the grill and bumper lol. Asian fluids are never cheap!
Ben - great post. Just changed mine following your video. Just a few extra observations. 1. moving the PS reservoir requires unsnapping a white plastic clip holding one of the PS hoses to the front section of the inner fender... snap it open with a thin flat screwdriver. 2. I did not remove the wrench set-up after the old belt was off, as the relieved tensioner wedged the handle back toward the firewall... plus it remains in the right spot on the idler nut for leveraging the re-install and it does not interfere with the routing/installation of the new belt. 3. Have one of those extendable magnetic pickups for when you drop wrenches, bolts, etc down below. 4. Wear safety glasses when pulling the tensioner... it takes a lot of force and something could slip. 5. Might take longer than you think... damn Alec Issigonis for inventing the transverse engine layout. 6. Having "Jane Fonda hands" would help (google that). 7. Sure beats the dealer doing it!
Excellent tutorial, thanks so much. 2 (positive) comments: Amazon said the gatorback belt would NOT fit my car, I figured because it is the EXL model something was different, so I bought the Gates K070685 which was a perfect fit, secondly I finished in 28 minutes flat :) . My 2010 has just under 70K miles but the factory belt was already cracking. Thanks again for saving me some bucks!
Brilliant....cheers on the "tie-strap idea"....bloody marvelous. (I am American...just excited).
Also note...if your CRV is over 10 years old and your "hearing" noise from this area of the car...it's probably the "tensioner" bearing...and should be changed concurrently.
I completely agree with both points of the last comment. A serious "ass-saver" video. After working on the wrong bolt for a half hour I popped the belt off in two minutes with your box wrench and ratchet trick.
I also agree with you being the most mellow vlogger which inspired me to take it slow.
The trick with the 14m and socket driver was sweet. The zip tie was slick as well. Great video.
This video helped a lot, but in our case the belt had already failed (leaky PS pump had soaked it and slippage shredded it). Because it was just a maze of pulleys that belt diagram was priceless!
Coming from the electric industry, the safety issues with the wrench/socket driver led me to get an actual tensioner tool - cheap enough, but limited throw. Mickey-mouse extracts its price in blood eventually and the tensioned belt will be happy to remove fingertips. It was _much_ easier after removing the reservoir and the bracket that held it (the one with the slicing edges seen around 9:00) but still no fun. In our 2008 the reservoir clipped to a sub-bracket that bolted on like your reservoir did.
The Gatorback belt looked much more pliable than our NAPA belt, which insisted on being held onto every pulley as The Time got closer. The water pump pulley is a good choice for last one if you have a helper under the car, otherwise the PS pump pulley is good. Again, pliability was an important factor in the choices.
I changed the one on my duramax and for those who think this is a tight spot, try a duramax. Being on the side of the interstate at night doesn't help as much as one might think. One of the idler pulleys let go, that was as hard to get to as the belt
Great tip. I had a real hard time getting in there and completing this job, there is just NO room on 2010 CRV. but I got it replaced. Thanks for video
If you ever attempt to replace the belt on a 2003 Pontiac Sunfire, you'll bless your luck you had the CR-V. I can assure you.
Very helpful video, thanks! I think slipping it on the alternator pulley as you mentioned is the way to go. There is not enough space to work the belt on to the tensioner, especially with the wrench on it. The gap between the tensioner and the firewall is barely the width of the belt, maybe even less. Also, with the set up I had, a 14 inch wrench and a pipe from from jack as a lever, I had to take of the plastic shroud atop the radiator to pull back the lever enough to slip the belt on. This was not an easy job, but the next time I know what to do I guess!
bro it took me 45 mins to do it only because i was the only one there and have a bad shoulder but you helped alot and thank you for the video
Using a 1/2" racket wrench as adjustable leverage is perfect. Thanks.
happy to help!
great video, the tie-strap trick of the old belt to new belt to help pull into rough position is really great
+Dan Edwards
Thanks for the comment!
Very helpful video. The job is even easier if you use a serpentine wrench. I had the tool from a prior belt change on an '06 CR-V. (Assenmacher HON1419) The tool costs about $30. I used a Bando belt from Amazon, cost $17. Note that the belt for my 2011 CR-V is 1745mm, whereas the 2009 in the video uses a 1755mm.
Thanks for the video. did it myself wasn't an easy task but did it after a while LOL !!
Very clear video. Great camera work despite only having 2 hands.
I did not know about that wrench and ratchet combination thank you 🙏.
Ive watched a few of these how to videos and this was one of the best~ GREAT JOB! Im about to attempt to change the belt.
Thank you!
duuuuuddddeeee!!!! you just saved me hours. I couldn't get that darn tension pulley undone and you totally gave me the information I needed.
Just completed it, thanks, video is worth watching to save time, the tensioner is a pain but the ratchet trick works, I took a picture of your belt layout so I could use my phone to see it while doing it.
I actually had better luck having a second person push the belt on from underneath, but still incredibly helpful, thank you.
Awesome video. Even women and children could do this job now!!
Thanks for the video. Did this today. Pain in the butt, but your tips were very helpful. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much Budget Mechanic I did exactly what you said it work like a Charm and it was my first time and I’m not a a mechanic just a average Joe you saved my day
Hello, can I request you to do a power steering o ring replacement? There already exists such videos, but your depth and detail is superb.
Thank you, your video helped me change my belt for the first time.
The combo wrench and ratchet is a great idea. To remove the CRV drive belt you need a bent bar [like the Honda Tool] otherwise with a traditional long straight bar you run out of real estate quick and can't release enough tension.
8:28 whole reason I looked up a video at all was to see how you put that thing on there.
Nice wipe...
Darnit
Dude 1/2 inch on the 14 legendary status! Thanks
Thanks, some times you win, sometimes you win MORE! ;)
I am NOT an experienced replacer of automobile serpentine belts but my mechanical skills have kept a few Navy jets up in the air. See this comment as a question, not a criticism, please. The Goodyear belt that Robert spec'd is now a Continental belt as Continental purchased that business division from Goodyear. The part number is still the same, PK070690. The last four digits, "690" indicate the length of the belt, 69 inches or 1752.6 mm. The OEM Bando belt is 7PK1745, the last four digits in the part number indicating the belt's length in mm, 1745mm. In fact, the Bando cross reference for the Goodyear/Continental PK070690 belt is 7PK1755, a full centimeter longer than it's OEM replacement offering. Like I said, I am NOT an expert in these matters and I would appreciate someone who is commenting on whether a serpentine belt that is 7.6mm or 10mm longer than the factory spec could be problematic. I am especially interested in any long term implications if these belts stretch over their useful life. Thanks.
Thank this video was very helpful . The 14mm wrench with half inch drive work great . I had to replace the alternator on My wife CRV .your tips work good and smooth very helpful.
2011 CRV needs a 1745mm belt. Huge pain to do the install for me. Took about 2 hrs total. When installing the belt, you still pull forward (to the front of the car) . For whatever reason I had in my mind you needed to push the tensioner backwards towards the rear of the car. Not really intuitive to me, so the tensioner bolt loosened. I puzzled over that for a minute until I realized my mistake.
$46 for the belt. Got a Dayco 1745mm 7 rib. Borrowed their serpentine belt wrench as well from Advance Auto, but not enough space to use it. Box wrench and breaker bar, like in the video was best. Pull the plastic shroud off that sits at the front of the engine compartment to get another inch of clearance. You'll need it. Super tight fit. And use a helper. Couldn't do it myself.
Thks a lot for the video!
to fit the new belt, I turn the pulley of the hydraulic pump
THANK YOU KIND SIR! YOUR KNOWLEDGE HAS HELPED ME SO MUCH.
Thank you! Your good advice is still doing good!
Dude, the ratchet on the box wrench was clutch! Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the video! I was able to get this done yesterday with no issues!
Excellent tutorial, thanks (from France).
Je vous en prie!
Great video and an excellent tutorial. I got the job done on my 05 Honda CRV. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you very much! I think you channeled Bob Ross for this one
👍good video
FYI I got the belt at Auto Zone with a 12:04 3 year warranty for $27.49 +tax. Unless you have to drive a ways to get one you might as well buy it locally for that.
Great video, I wish all were as good.
Part II... 7. it took me about 45 minutes including finding the tools and such. 8. Someone said it's easier to place it over the smooth idler pulley last, but that's impossible due to the wrench set-up blocking that area.... however, note that the belt easily slips over the top PS pump pulley last with no prying or cajoling at all.
Thank you for this. The tight space had me a big worried and your vid helped a ton!
Your video definetely saved me today! Thank you so much! Very well explained and showned!
Thank you for this very informative and very detailed instructional video. This will help me a great deal . Thanks
Excellent tutorial. Worked out perfectly. Thanks so much!
*note*
i was not able to get it the belt on with a small box end wrench that comes in the sets... If you buy the extended open in box wrench set with a few extra inches, thats a game changer!!! can do it by yourself no problems!!! was able to do it in 2 mins!!! 26$ for a set at harbor freight! (( spent more time running around finding the extended box wrench, then it took to do this job!))
Hey man thank you so much! This worked with your technique.
Glad it helped!
Glad it helped!
The best auto repair video
Hello, very good video. I really liked the rachet in the 14 mm wrench trick. Thank you very much.
Very good demostration and explanations. Tks
Great video! Your instructions were clear and easy to follow.
Great video. Love the tip about attaching the new belt to the old, why didn't I think of that?!
Really appreciate the video. I am going to change the belt this coming weekend.
Thanks, with this video, I replaced a broken belt within a half hour, unfortunately the A/C compresser was seized.
@Scroo Loose- you may want to check with your local Honda dealer-there's a warranty extension on Honda CRV compressors. Last year, our 2011 CRV's compressor died on us, the local garage changed it out to the tune of $900+. The mechanic told us there was a recall/warranty extension on the compressor, we contacted our dealer, and they referred us to Honda's US HQ, we scanned and emailed the receipt and invoice, and Honda reimbursed us for the cost of the compressor replacement.Something tells me GM wouldn't do that...
Never heard, nor thought of using a ratchet and combination wrench like that. Most excellent. Also great video in general. Tracking down the belt on amazon in Canada and I see your comment as to why you made this video. Amazon .ca belt is $43.95 welcome to the great white north. Regards
I think 1/2 hr is very optimistic. I started to do this today and stopped when I saw how tight it was. I've changed serpentine belts on a corolla and a 4Runner and they had way more clearance. This honestly looked impossible. I've done brakes, drive axles and a few timing belts and this looked really hard due to the clearance! I may give it another shot; but be warned, this will take you at LEAST 30 min. I'd budget for two hours.
I hear you man! Finished this in under half a day - 90% of the time was spent getting the steering fluid line out of the way as some moronic genius decided to put it right against the belt. There's literally 2 cm distance in between...
It's 30 minutes minus the prep work and the figuring out. Your second or third time should do it in 30 minutes easily. But it's the same with cooking recipes, what should take 4 minutes could take a new person learning the recipe 30 minutes.
I'd also budget for two hours if this is your first time changing a serpentine belt, maybe 3 to 4 if your only experience is fluid changes and brake pad replacing.
Took an act of God to get the new belt on, and there was no way in hell it was going over the alternator pulley last. I finally got it on over the power steering pulley after much swearing and frustration. Next time I'm going to try with a better tool, it's probably worth the money.
Brilliant, thats very impressive, top notch. Thanks