I couldn't agree more. I've noticed that the majority of failures I see are on #6, I wonder why that is, or if that's just something odd that's happened with me.
2006 gmc sierra mystery misfire, I replaced coil pack, spark plugs, plug wires, and injectors, it misfires at id and under 2200rpms once it gets higher in the rpm range it stops misfiring
I haven't messed with many modified engines. I'm guessing the misfire started later after modifications? Do you have an idea which cylinder it is? Not sure what all tools you have available, I would try to isolate the specific cylinder. Not sure how aggressive the cam is. You could possibly unplug one coil at a time and see if you can find it that way. A compression test would be great, if possible, a leak down test. Other ideas would be to check pulses on injectors/coils to see if they're getting proper signal to fire.
I have a 2014 silverado with a 5.3 flew fuel motor says cylinder 3 misfire i changed plug swaped coil and injectors do you know what i should try next?
Iv got the LC9 out of an 07 suburban 1500 lt, i was getting the P0301 code and changed out the spark plug and ignition coil and now im getting P0300, sounds like a tick, any suggestions?
Do you have access to a scanner with live data? I'd be curious if you have other cylinders misfiring. I would borrow a compression tester and check compression on that cylinder. Also swap a plug wire around just to be sure
Very well could be. Best way to know is pull the valve cover and look. I've got a video on replacing valve covers on a Cadillac. It will be a very similar process. You can probably have the valve cover off in 30 mins and then you'll know for sure.
So I have a 2015 Silverado 4.3 v6, it’s been a little rough riding since I got it and feels like there’s clunking and jerking occasionally but only in first gear and coming out of, there is also intermittent shuddering but only with light pressure on the accelerator, I replaced the spark plugs and the acceleration got better but the intermittent shuddering and jerking in low gears is still there. It doesn’t produce any lights and I do have a bent left rear rim that I know contributes to vibration at high speeds so that im not concerned about. My mechanic test drove it and said it’s mechanically in good working order and the shuddering is just from the bent rim and I need a transmission flush. But I think there’s a couple other things going on at the very least.
That's a hard one not seeing the vehicle in person. The "shuttering" could be many things, engine miss, torque converter shutter, slipping trans etc. Have you had a shop do a full health diagnostic to check for any possible dtc's that aren't demanding a trouble light?
I would definitely get the rim taken care of. I would have a shop you trust do a full diagnostic scan (and print off the report for you). Hopefully, that will give you a better direction. In the meantime, what do the plugs look like? Maybe they're near the end of their life cycle. I would also pull the air intake off and inspect the throttle body. if you haven't already messed with it, I would almost bet money it could use a good cleaning. A dirty throttle body can cause light throttle response issues.
@@diy_automotive no but that’s next, I’m gonna change the plug wires, the coils, the injectors, and the maf sensor just so I can rule out everything except fuel pumps when it comes to fuel and air. I’m honestly thinking it’s the transmission altogether, it has 122k miles and I’ve heard that’s about all they’re good for
@brianholt594 be careful changing out parts, especially of they're not oem. I have seen aftermarket parts cause more problems than failing oem parts 😅. I personally wouldn't jump the gun throwing all those new parts at it. I'm not sure what your level is or how in depth you want to get with your vehicles but for that kind of money you could buy and cheaper bi directional scan tool and actually test each component yourself. I haven't seen many problems with gm injectors even with the 400k+ mile vehicles I work on. The most common problem I see with MAF are them getting dirty as well. Again, it's your truck do what you wish, just trying to give you some other options to think about here. With the scanner you can watch your Maf and read the grams/sec and know for sure if it's functioning properly or not, you could also do an injector test while watching fuel pressure to get a pretty good idea if they're all spraying roughly the same volume and if you have any that are leaking. Either way you go I'm happy to help and give advice as I can.
What about random misfire on a 2002 Silverado? Only on the bank 2 side? Meaning only #2,4,6 & occasionally #8 cylinders ? On Bank 1 , all those cylinders are fine. What could be causing this.
@@diy_automotive 110, 115 It's got 310k miles. Runs like a raped ape when you ease off in it still. It started with a small shimmy going into reverse. Changed plugs and wires, noticed #3 had broke ceramic off of the plug. I think a piece of that ceramic insulator may have bent something
The easiest way I know is hooking a pressure gauge to the fuel system and then using a scanner to command the injector on. You'd read the fuel psi drop and compare it to the other injectors. To rule out wiring issues, you can use an LED test light, make sure it's LED.. and check the injector plug with the engine running. Key on, you should have power on the pink wire, and with the engine running, the other wire should be pulsing ground
Just curious what y’all think I have a 2014 gmc Sierra 1500 5.3 sle it has a misfire on cylinder 1 I replaced spark plug and spark plug wire haven’t done the coil pack yet mechanic friend said it could be my lifter is stuck
@@diy_automotive so apparently my rockers are moving fine and it don't seem like the have a bad lifter, I switched ignition coil and changed spark plugs and it's still same misfire in cylinder #4, any chance you know what could it be?
@@diy_automotive well it's a Silverado 5.3 2009 with 159k miles, it started like 100-180miles ago, it's just the last 45 miles is where the engine light no longer disappeared and the truck felt like when it had a collapsed lifter (it has happened before but on cylinder #7 and all lifters from that side where replaced by a bad mechanic) so I haven't run it because I'm afraid of damaging anything or the camshaft, it currently has stability track off and service traction control and service stability track. though before, when it all began it would randomly go away and run like nothing
@@diy_automotive stock truck through and through, 250,000 miles im trying to get another 250,000. Its a daily driver and no i dont drive it hard. Rockauto says acdelco 41962's are oem
@@AcerArtsOfficial I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure gm used the double plat plugs during those years and moved to the iridium later. My silverado is a little over 280k with double plats in it. You're not really going to notice a big difference between the two except for maybe the iridium having a longer life. Some people may argue with me on this but some of the older trucks that have problems with oil consumption (rings or valve seals allowing oil to be burned) I actually recommend the copper plugs. The electrodes are bigger and not as easily covered by carbon or other deposits you will get in those situations, also the biggest benefit you get with the higher plugs is longer life... if you're burning oil the plug will need to be changed way before its expected life is up. No need throwing money at a 5 year plug if it'll need to be changed every year etc. Hopefully my rambling had some good information for you. If your truck is fine and not burning oil you'll be good with either iridium or the double plats, I personally wouldn't stress over which to choose.
First thought is oil is probably making it past the rings some how. How long did you have the miss for? Did you correct the miss or is it an on going issue? Mileage on engine?
🤣🤣 atf does do wonders but unfortunately the tray had broke on this engine allowing the lifter to actually pop up and turn sideways . Fortunately it didn't eat the cam up
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I have an 08 5.3 with p0306. I opened the valve cover and the rockers weren’t movable with the engine on off. Nor did they not move with the engine running. I refuse to believe it is the spark plugs or cables. But I also didn’t care to check those out. On my dash I get service stabilitrak and traction light on along with the flashing check engine. Anybody have any idea what it could possibly be?
The stabilitrak light is coming on due to the engine light. Rockers should be fairly snug with engine off. Are any of the rockers moving with it running? If you have rockers that aren't moving, it's going to be a mechanical issue more than likely (cam, lifters, etc) If only the afm rockers aren't moving, you could have a solenoid stuck open, allowing oil pressure to keep the lifters closed.
Appreciate the quick response . I’ve seen videos where you take the cover off and they check for loose rocker arms on the cylinder misfiring while it’s off. On mine it indicates cylinder 6 but the rocker arms aren’t loose at all I haven’t checked them while the engine is running I’ll be doing that
You're welcome, and yeah try taking the cover off and having someone start it while you watch. I have seen bad lifters not let the rocker arms be loose and also operate properly for the first few seconds before dropping out.
If you pull just the main coil plug can you leave the injectors plugged in and start it with the valve cover off to look or must you pull the injector plugs out to do this test ?
I personally would unplug injectors or pull the two fuses to them so you're not spraying raw fuel into the cylinders. It probably wouldn't hurt anything if it was just for a few seconds but you could risk washing the cylinders out damaging them or the rings
I have a problem when i accelerate it feels weak (chevy silverado 2016 5.3 120xxx)no lights on dash and no clicking noise i know im due for sparkplugs just wanted to know if anyone else has a similar issue?
How often is it driven? And how long has it been acting like this? Could be many things, may be worth having it scanned to see if there are any codes that aren't tripping the engine light
Spark has nothing to do with it. The cam it's self is what's pushing the rockers causing them to move. She definitely wasn't running well. I'm pretty sure if we had put it in gear it would have stalled out.
Depends on you're level of mechanical knowledge. Compared to other vehicles it's relatively easy. The head does need to come off though and attention to detail/cleanliness is critical
Prolly 10 bolts and alot of cuss words. Not hard. Just recommend using a torque wrench to put the valve covers back on with a NEW gasket. And of course look up the torque specs for the cover. Hardest part is taking off the air box and coils and whatnot to open up space to work, and even that's not hard. Just remember to plug back in every plug and keep note of what goes where. Take pictures or label wires if need be
@@hoodbillymechanix6596 😅 there's more than 10 bolts holding the head down alone. But it really isn't a hard job. Just have to be super clean and organized. Especially making sure you get any oil/coolant out of head bolt hole before re installing. People have messed heads up before due to that.
@@hoodbillymechanix6596 I'm lost as to how you remove the lifter without pulling the head?. And no Hate towards you. Some people read this stuff and take it to heart though. I'd hate for someone who isn't properly prepared try to take on a job like this and not realize they're in trouble until they're too deep in.
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Just replaced a "reman" 5.3 with 4k miles. #6 cyl afm lifter failed. Delete that junk during rebuild...
I couldn't agree more. I've noticed that the majority of failures I see are on #6, I wonder why that is, or if that's just something odd that's happened with me.
I know the feeling. 2015 sierra #4 went out
2006 gmc sierra mystery misfire, I replaced coil pack, spark plugs, plug wires, and injectors, it misfires at id and under 2200rpms once it gets higher in the rpm range it stops misfiring
Have you pulled any codes? And do you have access tona scanner with live data?
@diy_automotive Its cammed so the misfire codes were deleted during the tuning process
I haven't messed with many modified engines. I'm guessing the misfire started later after modifications? Do you have an idea which cylinder it is?
Not sure what all tools you have available, I would try to isolate the specific cylinder. Not sure how aggressive the cam is. You could possibly unplug one coil at a time and see if you can find it that way.
A compression test would be great, if possible, a leak down test.
Other ideas would be to check pulses on injectors/coils to see if they're getting proper signal to fire.
I have a 2014 silverado with a 5.3 flew fuel motor says cylinder 3 misfire i changed plug swaped coil and injectors do you know what i should try next?
@JonnyDang-iv6ix have you done a compression test on cyl 1 and 3? Any other codes besides a P0303?
Iv got the LC9 out of an 07 suburban 1500 lt, i was getting the P0301 code and changed out the spark plug and ignition coil and now im getting P0300, sounds like a tick, any suggestions?
Do you have access to a scanner with live data? I'd be curious if you have other cylinders misfiring. I would borrow a compression tester and check compression on that cylinder. Also swap a plug wire around just to be sure
My number 4 spark plug is reading missing i change the plug and coil pack the wire. It still read miss fire. This might be the problem
Very well could be. Best way to know is pull the valve cover and look. I've got a video on replacing valve covers on a Cadillac. It will be a very similar process. You can probably have the valve cover off in 30 mins and then you'll know for sure.
@@diy_automotive okay, I'll check it out. Thanks for the info
Hey can you give an update on this!
Was it that? Same problem
This one was a lifter, what problems are you having? Yours may not be a lifter
So I have a 2015 Silverado 4.3 v6, it’s been a little rough riding since I got it and feels like there’s clunking and jerking occasionally but only in first gear and coming out of, there is also intermittent shuddering but only with light pressure on the accelerator, I replaced the spark plugs and the acceleration got better but the intermittent shuddering and jerking in low gears is still there. It doesn’t produce any lights and I do have a bent left rear rim that I know contributes to vibration at high speeds so that im not concerned about. My mechanic test drove it and said it’s mechanically in good working order and the shuddering is just from the bent rim and I need a transmission flush. But I think there’s a couple other things going on at the very least.
That's a hard one not seeing the vehicle in person. The "shuttering" could be many things, engine miss, torque converter shutter, slipping trans etc.
Have you had a shop do a full health diagnostic to check for any possible dtc's that aren't demanding a trouble light?
I would definitely get the rim taken care of. I would have a shop you trust do a full diagnostic scan (and print off the report for you). Hopefully, that will give you a better direction. In the meantime, what do the plugs look like? Maybe they're near the end of their life cycle. I would also pull the air intake off and inspect the throttle body. if you haven't already messed with it, I would almost bet money it could use a good cleaning. A dirty throttle body can cause light throttle response issues.
@@diy_automotive no but that’s next, I’m gonna change the plug wires, the coils, the injectors, and the maf sensor just so I can rule out everything except fuel pumps when it comes to fuel and air. I’m honestly thinking it’s the transmission altogether, it has 122k miles and I’ve heard that’s about all they’re good for
But I just bought this truck in January, hopefully all goes well, I do pay $45 extra a month for the unlimited mechanical warranty
@brianholt594 be careful changing out parts, especially of they're not oem. I have seen aftermarket parts cause more problems than failing oem parts 😅. I personally wouldn't jump the gun throwing all those new parts at it.
I'm not sure what your level is or how in depth you want to get with your vehicles but for that kind of money you could buy and cheaper bi directional scan tool and actually test each component yourself.
I haven't seen many problems with gm injectors even with the 400k+ mile vehicles I work on. The most common problem I see with MAF are them getting dirty as well.
Again, it's your truck do what you wish, just trying to give you some other options to think about here.
With the scanner you can watch your Maf and read the grams/sec and know for sure if it's functioning properly or not, you could also do an injector test while watching fuel pressure to get a pretty good idea if they're all spraying roughly the same volume and if you have any that are leaking.
Either way you go I'm happy to help and give advice as I can.
What about random misfire on a 2002 Silverado? Only on the bank 2 side? Meaning only #2,4,6 & occasionally #8 cylinders ? On Bank 1 , all those cylinders are fine. What could be causing this.
Do you have any other codes? Maybe a lean code for bank 2 or o2 codes?
Check the ground wire behind power steering pump
@@diy_automotive I do have these 2 exact codes on bank 1 though. What could that mean?
What are the codes you have?
@@diy_automotive P015B and P3400
I have a p0300 random missfire. it’s a LS so i’m hoping it’s just a lifter
Any noise? Is the misfire noticeable? Lot of better options than it being a lifter 😅
I have the same thing, 05 gmc 5.3
Started feeling rough during take off. Threw that code out. Did a compression check, #3 cylinder has 60lbs
@drewcherry2794 I hate that for you, how much compression did the other cylinders have?
If so, get prepped for removing the cyl head.
@@diy_automotive 110, 115
It's got 310k miles. Runs like a raped ape when you ease off in it still. It started with a small shimmy going into reverse. Changed plugs and wires, noticed #3 had broke ceramic off of the plug. I think a piece of that ceramic insulator may have bent something
I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3 has a cylinder 6 misfire I replaced spark plug coil pack and wire and is still misfiring, could it be a lifter
Could be, cylinder 6 is an afm cylinder. Could also be a fuel injector as well. Any codes besides just a p0306?
I haven’t gotten no other codes just the misfire code
How can I test the injector to see if that is my issue
The easiest way I know is hooking a pressure gauge to the fuel system and then using a scanner to command the injector on. You'd read the fuel psi drop and compare it to the other injectors.
To rule out wiring issues, you can use an LED test light, make sure it's LED.. and check the injector plug with the engine running. Key on, you should have power on the pink wire, and with the engine running, the other wire should be pulsing ground
Just curious what y’all think I have a 2014 gmc Sierra 1500 5.3 sle it has a misfire on cylinder 1 I replaced spark plug and spark plug wire haven’t done the coil pack yet mechanic friend said it could be my lifter is stuck
Could be, I would swap the coil with one from a different cylinder and see if misfire moves. Do you have any codes besides the p0301?
I accidentally erased my comment, but you mentioned why keeping the spark plugs in was important (learned the hard way cause Im no mechanic obviously)
Well, at least you learned something. A lot of my knowledge has come from trial and error, haha.
@@diy_automotive so apparently my rockers are moving fine and it don't seem like the have a bad lifter, I switched ignition coil and changed spark plugs and it's still same misfire in cylinder #4, any chance you know what could it be?
@eduardotrinidad5584 did you do a diagnostic scan on the vehicle? Any codes?
Ill assist as much as I can.
I need some basic info
Vehicle make and model, engine size, mileage, when did the misfire start?
@@diy_automotive well it's a Silverado 5.3 2009 with 159k miles, it started like 100-180miles ago, it's just the last 45 miles is where the engine light no longer disappeared and the truck felt like when it had a collapsed lifter (it has happened before but on cylinder #7 and all lifters from that side where replaced by a bad mechanic) so I haven't run it because I'm afraid of damaging anything or the camshaft, it currently has stability track off and service traction control and service stability track. though before, when it all began it would randomly go away and run like nothing
My 2010, 6.2 silverado shakes only on up hills, I also got a P0302 cylinder misfire code. Could that be the same problem as the video?
It's possible, I believe cylinder 2 is an afm cylinder. I would check the basics (spark,fuel,compression) before digging too deep though
Should i run NGK laser iridiums on my 4.8 L 02' sierra or the acdelco double iridium
I'm Not huge on some of the newer plugs(I'll explain this later).
Is the truck a stock truck? Regular use truck? Or modified?
@@diy_automotive stock truck through and through, 250,000 miles im trying to get another 250,000. Its a daily driver and no i dont drive it hard. Rockauto says acdelco 41962's are oem
@@AcerArtsOfficial I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure gm used the double plat plugs during those years and moved to the iridium later. My silverado is a little over 280k with double plats in it.
You're not really going to notice a big difference between the two except for maybe the iridium having a longer life.
Some people may argue with me on this but some of the older trucks that have problems with oil consumption (rings or valve seals allowing oil to be burned) I actually recommend the copper plugs. The electrodes are bigger and not as easily covered by carbon or other deposits you will get in those situations, also the biggest benefit you get with the higher plugs is longer life... if you're burning oil the plug will need to be changed way before its expected life is up. No need throwing money at a 5 year plug if it'll need to be changed every year etc.
Hopefully my rambling had some good information for you. If your truck is fine and not burning oil you'll be good with either iridium or the double plats, I personally wouldn't stress over which to choose.
I would use the dielectric grease on the plug side of the coil wire. It will help with preventing corrosion over the years.
I had a miss on 7 and i got a little oil on the spark plug any toughts?
First thought is oil is probably making it past the rings some how. How long did you have the miss for? Did you correct the miss or is it an on going issue?
Mileage on engine?
add 1qt of atf run it for about 100mile in hiway and boom magic or boom engine lol dont drive it rough and do oil change
🤣🤣 atf does do wonders but unfortunately the tray had broke on this engine allowing the lifter to actually pop up and turn sideways . Fortunately it didn't eat the cam up
Best way to stay organized when removing/Installing the head.
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I have an 08 5.3 with p0306. I opened the valve cover and the rockers weren’t movable with the engine on off. Nor did they not move with the engine running. I refuse to believe it is the spark plugs or cables. But I also didn’t care to check those out. On my dash I get service stabilitrak and traction light on along with the flashing check engine. Anybody have any idea what it could possibly be?
The stabilitrak light is coming on due to the engine light.
Rockers should be fairly snug with engine off. Are any of the rockers moving with it running?
If you have rockers that aren't moving, it's going to be a mechanical issue more than likely (cam, lifters, etc)
If only the afm rockers aren't moving, you could have a solenoid stuck open, allowing oil pressure to keep the lifters closed.
Appreciate the quick response . I’ve seen videos where you take the cover off and they check for loose rocker arms on the cylinder misfiring while it’s off. On mine it indicates cylinder 6 but the rocker arms aren’t loose at all I haven’t checked them while the engine is running I’ll be doing that
You're welcome, and yeah try taking the cover off and having someone start it while you watch. I have seen bad lifters not let the rocker arms be loose and also operate properly for the first few seconds before dropping out.
@@diy_automotive I just did that! All rocker arms are moving 🤔 I’ll post a video
Do you have access to a scanner
If you pull just the main coil plug can you leave the injectors plugged in and start it with the valve cover off to look or must you pull the injector plugs out to do this test ?
I personally would unplug injectors or pull the two fuses to them so you're not spraying raw fuel into the cylinders. It probably wouldn't hurt anything if it was just for a few seconds but you could risk washing the cylinders out damaging them or the rings
I have a problem when i accelerate it feels weak (chevy silverado 2016 5.3 120xxx)no lights on dash and no clicking noise i know im due for sparkplugs just wanted to know if anyone else has a similar issue?
Want to know because i’m exiting the military in 2 months and have to make a 17 hr drive from NC back to Texas😬
How often is it driven? And how long has it been acting like this? Could be many things, may be worth having it scanned to see if there are any codes that aren't tripping the engine light
could be fuel filter fuel pump clogged cat etc.
Might just be the plug wires
It wasn’t ticking?
Nope, this one of the very few engines I've worked on that had a lifter failure without noise.
Solenoid in the VLOM failed on this particular one causing the lifter damage, just wanted to throw that out there.
How do they still bounce without the ignition coils giving them spark? And with half the cylinders not having spark, how is it running so good?
Spark has nothing to do with it. The cam it's self is what's pushing the rockers causing them to move. She definitely wasn't running well. I'm pretty sure if we had put it in gear it would have stalled out.
@danny vega I honestly can't remember. Not sure I even checked compression before I popped the valve cover off
What year is this engine???
That one was an 08 i believe?
What year is this?
I honestly can't remember without digging up the service info. I would say it's an 2008-10 ish
What misfire code did it gave you?
I believe it was random cylinder misfire and misfire for cyl 4 or 6. Whichever has lifter failure.
How hard is it to change the lifter
Depends on you're level of mechanical knowledge. Compared to other vehicles it's relatively easy. The head does need to come off though and attention to detail/cleanliness is critical
Prolly 10 bolts and alot of cuss words. Not hard. Just recommend using a torque wrench to put the valve covers back on with a NEW gasket. And of course look up the torque specs for the cover. Hardest part is taking off the air box and coils and whatnot to open up space to work, and even that's not hard. Just remember to plug back in every plug and keep note of what goes where. Take pictures or label wires if need be
@@hoodbillymechanix6596 😅 there's more than 10 bolts holding the head down alone. But it really isn't a hard job. Just have to be super clean and organized. Especially making sure you get any oil/coolant out of head bolt hole before re installing. People have messed heads up before due to that.
@@diy_automotive don't have to take the head off... So that's irrelevant.. and I was clearly being exaggerative.. but you got the juice GUY
@@hoodbillymechanix6596 I'm lost as to how you remove the lifter without pulling the head?. And no Hate towards you. Some people read this stuff and take it to heart though. I'd hate for someone who isn't properly prepared try to take on a job like this and not realize they're in trouble until they're too deep in.