I searched for a couple hours wanting to know if I had to use a double breaker or single and no one but you answered that question for the tt type. Thanks
Mi Amigo! That's the very first "Super Thanks" that I've received since putting that feature up on my UA-cam Channel! You the man! Now if I could just get my other 91,000 subscribers to do that, your next Costa Rica vacay is on me!
This vid helped me a lot. Well done. Thank you. I'm using this vid to install an interlock kit to back feed power from a Honda EU 2200i, with its own 30amp out receptacle, to power my main house panel( with all 220 circuits turned off). I will be using 8awg wire also just in case I buy a 7k watt, or more, generator in the future. Any further advice is greatly appreciated. TY.
This is the third instruction video I've watched today and NO ONE is using a GFIC for their RV outlet. So, how is it we have GFIC circuit breakers for sinks and hot water heaters and GFIC outlets installed in garages and outside, except for RV outlets? I have about $135 invested in a 20 amp 120v single pole GFIC and 20 amp 120v single pole GFIC and curious how people are able to install the outlets without a GFIC.
The GFCI protection is in the RV. (or should be unless it's an older unit). The panel in the RV is in essence a sub-panel from whatever panel is feeding the RV outlet. Then the GFCI protected circuits should be wired as such in the RV, either via circuit breakers where needed, or with GFCI outlets. Many just have one GFCI outlet in the RV, and then protect the other circuits on the load side of it.
Nice job. The box I bought is all enclusive with door and all. I'll be mounting it on the exterior, very close to the breaker box which is located on the inside of my garage. One thing I did not see you stress is cutting the power before doing any of the work. I'm a novice so having any live wires around the work area frightens me. I do realize once the main breaker switch is turned off, the two wires coming into the box (from the city) will always remain live and I should not get anywhere nears those. I'll be using 8-2 wire which should be a little easier to work with. You do sound like you might be a teacher or an instructor.
Thanks for the comment, and yes, I try to always emphasize safety first, mainly shut off the supply! I sometimes neglect to mention it enough! Good reminder.
Hello 👋 Terry Peterman it's a nice introduction to the beginning but how was finished with your RV? I have a question ❓ how can converter to a single house electric system? My RV.
You should always check with your municipality to see if a permit is required for your project. My job here was covered under a permit I obtained for a general renovation project consisting of several alterations and additions to my system.
Great video Terry, thank you. Quick question. I'm going to be putting a RV power box with breakers close to my RV but want 30 amp as well as a 15 amp GFI. I was told I can run 10/3 and understand how to wire it at the RV end but do I connect to two separate breakers in my house panel as well.. ie a 15 and a 30? Or do I go one two pole breaker in the house panel (50amp?) and then split it at the RV end to the two separate breakers? Hope that makes sense.
@@theinternetelectrician Hey Terry. Seems my comments/replies keep disappearing lol. Could be that I'm adding a link. Anyway, I'm planning on running #10/3 from the shop panel to the RV shelter which is about 20ft away. I then wanted to install a RV electrical panel that has a 15 amp 110 and a 30 amp 110, each having their own breaker in the panel itself at the RV shelter. Similar to what you would see in a campground. That would be considered a sub panel correct?
@@theinternetelectrician Fantastic, thanks. So to be clear, 30A 2-pole breaker in shop panel, run the #10/3 from that to the RV Box then split the 2 hots... 1 to the 15A and 1 to the 30A. Thanks again for the help.
@@lakeestate Yes, with the information you provided, I think so, but if you need further clarity or more information, email me at internetelectrician@gmail.com and provide photos, etc.
Did I somehow miss the part where you explained why you just didn't use 10/2 wire instead of 10/3 and had to tape the red conductor wire or don't they sell 10/2 in Canada ? Edit; I see further down in the comments where you say it's 8/3 wire for future upgrade to 50amp. Hard to tell on video the gauge of wire.
No worries! Yes, 10/2 is readily available, and yes, I used #8/3 for future upgrade to a 50A, 125/250V receptacle that I have now done, fed with a 40A 2-pole breaker. (which is plenty of capacity for most larger R.V.'s.) Thanks for watching! And happy July 4th Independence day!
Great video however I am confused now. You intend on using the 8 wire for future 50 amp service, however everywhere else is saying 6 wire for 50 amp service. I am planning on setting this service and require a definitive answer thank you for your help.
Quick question, I have a 170 ft run from barn where I will have a meter base to 30 amp rv pedestal with an additional 20 amp gfci outlet. What size wire do I run the 170 ft to pedestal? and do I run 2 wires? 1 for 30 amp plug and 1 for 20 amp gfci? Thanks in advance
The Chief Electrical inspector once on one of our jobs would not allow for the outer jacket to be stripped and run through conduit. His reason was you are changing wiring methods from a cable which is required to be labeled on its surface to conduit with conductors which the conductors are required to be labeled along its insulation. An inspector can not look at the conductors entering the box and know what it is for sure without the labeling. Just thought you might like to hear that story. Best wishes, Kevin
Inspectors have the power to interpret the code and make you do it his / her way even if they're wrong. Some you can compromise with, but sometimes it's just better to do what they want and accept that they are wrong! Kinda like our Governments!
@@theinternetelectrician what is the logic for removing the outer jacket sheathe for a conduit run, seems like an extra layer of protection. Thanks Patrick AZ
I have a 35 foot RV what size wire do I need to wire to my RV to my 100amp electrical box do I need a double pole or single pole 30amp breaker I have a single slot not using now
Is your plug for the RV the same as what I've shown here in the video? Even if it's a 50A on your RV, you can adapt down to the 30A being you only have one breaker position left. Follow the example above, or this other video I did (ua-cam.com/video/_F3osluGL9E/v-deo.html). That should guide you through the process. So to answer your question, You need #10/2 cable, and a 30A single pole breaker. Thanks for watching! I how that you 'liked', and that you have subscribed to my channel? Much appreciated!
Please help. I'm wiring a 30amp RV outlet... and I have a 8/3 wire running 100 feet out... I don't need the 2nd hot wire,,,? So what do I do with it? Thanks
Hello Terry. Looking to wire up our RV outlet which is a TT-30 plug. The distance from the meter will be 100 feet (30 meters) will i need to use size 6 or 8 wire and would i be ok with say 6/2 or 8/2? or do i need to go 6/3 or 8/3? i do not plan on buying a bigger RV thats 50 amps 240. so i do not have a need for the spare wire. Thank you!
For 30A at that distance, #10/2 will be fine, but if you want to spend extra money, go with #8, but it's not necessary. And you'll have better luck finding #10/2 cable so if going to #8, you'll likely have to get #8/3 as it will be way easier to find than #8/2
You are correct in that's what you can use for 30A, 125V circuit, but I used #8/3 to accommodate a future upgrade to a 50A 125/250V receptacle. (that I have since done)
He implied he wanted to be able to support a 14-50 in the future. If his time is valuable to him then it's an investment in future capability and not a waste. If he had to go back later and rerun a larger cable, then the older cable would likely sit unused.
@@ronsmith8434 Good job Ron! You covered voltage drop in the 100’ of cable by running the #8 copper. That’s what I would have designed it if it were my design. Where you were incorrect was 8/3 WG. Only needed 8/2 WG. Wire nut the extra conductor at both ends. Best wishes, Kevin
Liked for the wiggle technique on stranded wire, doing this tomorrow, thanks👌
I searched for a couple hours wanting to know if I had to use a double breaker or single and no one but you answered that question for the tt type. Thanks
A double pole breaker would be 240v
Thanks!
Mi Amigo! That's the very first "Super Thanks" that I've received since putting that feature up on my UA-cam Channel! You the man! Now if I could just get my other 91,000 subscribers to do that, your next Costa Rica vacay is on me!
This vid helped me a lot. Well done. Thank you. I'm using this vid to install an interlock kit to back feed power from a Honda EU 2200i, with its own 30amp out receptacle, to power my main house panel( with all 220 circuits turned off). I will be using 8awg wire also just in case I buy a 7k watt, or more, generator in the future. Any further advice is greatly appreciated. TY.
Thank you Terry Great video very informative ,detailed and helpful
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
This is the third instruction video I've watched today and NO ONE is using a GFIC for their RV outlet. So, how is it we have GFIC circuit breakers for sinks and hot water heaters and GFIC outlets installed in garages and outside, except for RV outlets? I have about $135 invested in a 20 amp 120v single pole GFIC and 20 amp 120v single pole GFIC and curious how people are able to install the outlets without a GFIC.
The GFCI protection is in the RV. (or should be unless it's an older unit). The panel in the RV is in essence a sub-panel from whatever panel is feeding the RV outlet. Then the GFCI protected circuits should be wired as such in the RV, either via circuit breakers where needed, or with GFCI outlets. Many just have one GFCI outlet in the RV, and then protect the other circuits on the load side of it.
Thank you sir. Awesome video
Nice job. The box I bought is all enclusive with door and all. I'll be mounting it on the exterior, very close to the breaker box which is located on the inside of my garage. One thing I did not see you stress is cutting the power before doing any of the work. I'm a novice so having any live wires around the work area frightens me. I do realize once the main breaker switch is turned off, the two wires coming into the box (from the city) will always remain live and I should not get anywhere nears those. I'll be using 8-2 wire which should be a little easier to work with.
You do sound like you might be a teacher or an instructor.
Thanks for the comment, and yes, I try to always emphasize safety first, mainly shut off the supply! I sometimes neglect to mention it enough! Good reminder.
Great video. Thanks!
Thank-you for watching!
Hello 👋 Terry Peterman it's a nice introduction to the beginning but how was finished with your RV? I have a question ❓ how can converter to a single house electric system? My RV.
Great job on the video
Wondering how you are going to get a 30 amp right angle plug or surge protector in that receptacle without further modifications?
You are absolutely correct. I think I mentioned that, and yes, I had to notch out the bottom of that cover assembly to accommodate the cord.
Did you have to notify the city to do this job, or get a permit?
You should always check with your municipality to see if a permit is required for your project. My job here was covered under a permit I obtained for a general renovation project consisting of several alterations and additions to my system.
Great video Terry, thank you. Quick question. I'm going to be putting a RV power box with breakers close to my RV but want 30 amp as well as a 15 amp GFI. I was told I can run 10/3 and understand how to wire it at the RV end but do I connect to two separate breakers in my house panel as well.. ie a 15 and a 30? Or do I go one two pole breaker in the house panel (50amp?) and then split it at the RV end to the two separate breakers? Hope that makes sense.
Hello Mark. Thanks for watching. I would need some more information from you. Are you planning on putting a sub-panel for the RV service?
@@theinternetelectrician Hey Terry. Seems my comments/replies keep disappearing lol. Could be that I'm adding a link. Anyway, I'm planning on running #10/3 from the shop panel to the RV shelter which is about 20ft away. I then wanted to install a RV electrical panel that has a 15 amp 110 and a 30 amp 110, each having their own breaker in the panel itself at the RV shelter. Similar to what you would see in a campground. That would be considered a sub panel correct?
@@lakeestate ok, then feed the 10/3 with a 30A 2-pole breaker. 30A is the maximum breaker size for #10.
@@theinternetelectrician Fantastic, thanks. So to be clear, 30A 2-pole breaker in shop panel, run the #10/3 from that to the RV Box then split the 2 hots... 1 to the 15A and 1 to the 30A. Thanks again for the help.
@@lakeestate Yes, with the information you provided, I think so, but if you need further clarity or more information, email me at internetelectrician@gmail.com and provide photos, etc.
As I get nervous when watching people like working on hot panels 😊
Did I somehow miss the part where you explained why you just didn't use 10/2 wire instead of 10/3 and had to tape the red conductor wire or don't they sell 10/2 in Canada ?
Edit; I see further down in the comments where you say it's 8/3 wire for future upgrade to 50amp. Hard to tell on video the gauge of wire.
No worries! Yes, 10/2 is readily available, and yes, I used #8/3 for future upgrade to a 50A, 125/250V receptacle that I have now done, fed with a 40A 2-pole breaker. (which is plenty of capacity for most larger R.V.'s.) Thanks for watching! And happy July 4th Independence day!
Great video however I am confused now. You intend on using the 8 wire for future 50 amp service, however everywhere else is saying 6 wire for 50 amp service. I am planning on setting this service and require a definitive answer thank you for your help.
I know. It’s an anomaly, but #8, you feed with 40A, and you use a 50A rated receptacle. 50A 2-pole breakers, not that common.
Not bad Terry. I wonder if I could use this same set up for a 40 amp car charger.
Yes you could! And a timely question as I am working on a video that will be all about servicing an EV charging system. Stay tuned!
Quick question, I have a 170 ft run from barn where I will have a meter base to 30 amp rv pedestal with an additional 20 amp gfci outlet. What size wire do I run the 170 ft to pedestal? and do I run 2 wires? 1 for 30 amp plug and 1 for 20 amp gfci? Thanks in advance
Muy buen video de muncha ayuda para mi que boy a traer un rv
Please let me know, how much cost the electricity RV DVD 📀 instructional? Thanks 🙏.
Nice and helpful
The Chief Electrical inspector once on one of our jobs would not allow for the outer jacket to be stripped and run through conduit.
His reason was you are changing wiring methods from a cable which is required to be labeled on its surface to conduit with conductors which the conductors are required to be labeled along its insulation. An inspector can not look at the conductors entering the box and know what it is for sure without the labeling. Just thought you might like to hear that story. Best wishes, Kevin
Inspectors have the power to interpret the code and make you do it his / her way even if they're wrong. Some you can compromise with, but sometimes it's just better to do what they want and accept that they are wrong! Kinda like our Governments!
@@theinternetelectrician what is the logic for removing the outer jacket sheathe for a conduit run, seems like an extra layer of protection. Thanks Patrick AZ
Help me please I need advice and connecting my 30 amp RV inlet from my RV to my RV fuse panel or breaker box
I have a 30 amp single pole BR130 and have that same outlet. Is a 10/3 wire what i need?
No, you can save a conductor and use #10/2! I only ran 3-wire for future upgrade to a 50A 125/250V receptacle.
@@theinternetelectrician thanks a lot. Glad I found this video.
@@overlandersnorthwest I'm happy that you found it too! Thanks for watching!
I have a 35 foot RV what size wire do I need to wire to my RV to my 100amp electrical box do I need a double pole or single pole 30amp breaker I have a single slot not using now
Is your plug for the RV the same as what I've shown here in the video? Even if it's a 50A on your RV, you can adapt down to the 30A being you only have one breaker position left. Follow the example above, or this other video I did (ua-cam.com/video/_F3osluGL9E/v-deo.html). That should guide you through the process. So to answer your question, You need #10/2 cable, and a 30A single pole breaker. Thanks for watching! I how that you 'liked', and that you have subscribed to my channel? Much appreciated!
Please help. I'm wiring a 30amp RV outlet... and I have a 8/3 wire running 100 feet out... I don't need the 2nd hot wire,,,? So what do I do with it?
Thanks
Where did you find the electrical box with the ground?
How do you wire an old 1971 Coleman to a 30 Amp. It states only use 125v. No power Converter?
240- 20 amp can feed a house?
Hello Terry. Looking to wire up our RV outlet which is a TT-30 plug. The distance from the meter will be 100 feet (30 meters) will i need to use size 6 or 8 wire and would i be ok with say 6/2 or 8/2? or do i need to go 6/3 or 8/3? i do not plan on buying a bigger RV thats 50 amps 240. so i do not have a need for the spare wire. Thank you!
For 30A at that distance, #10/2 will be fine, but if you want to spend extra money, go with #8, but it's not necessary. And you'll have better luck finding #10/2 cable so if going to #8, you'll likely have to get #8/3 as it will be way easier to find than #8/2
I sure hope that your panel is not powered up when pointing 😊
Thank you
Thankyou
You mean 10/3
You are correct in that's what you can use for 30A, 125V circuit, but I used #8/3 to accommodate a future upgrade to a 50A 125/250V receptacle. (that I have since done)
Mine is a tt30p
If useful information don't start flowing in the first 3 minutes, it gets boring.
Facts i fast forwarded 😂
oversized wire and an extra lead, probably doubled the cost. Must be nice to have money to throw away!
He implied he wanted to be able to support a 14-50 in the future. If his time is valuable to him then it's an investment in future capability and not a waste. If he had to go back later and rerun a larger cable, then the older cable would likely sit unused.
Thank you.
Thanks!
Hey, THANK-YOU! I think this is only my second "thanks"! Much appreciated!
Please help. I'm wiring a 30amp RV outlet... and I have a 8/3 wire running 100 feet out... I don't need the 2nd hot wire,,,? So what do I do with it?
You answered your own qt... single pole 30 amp breaker is one hot wire120/125v... double 30 pole beaker has 2 hot wires .240v ... (120v×2=240v)
You need one hot wire ,one neutral wire, and one ground wire for a single pole 30 amp breaker 8/3 works wire even 10-3 for a short run💪
@@jeremycalifornia thank you. I figured a bigger wire would be fine. It's going smaller is where issues arise
Bigger wire is always better. Good luck with the project 👍
@@ronsmith8434 Good job Ron! You covered voltage drop in the 100’ of cable by running the #8 copper. That’s what I would have designed it if it were my design. Where you were incorrect was 8/3 WG. Only needed 8/2 WG. Wire nut the extra conductor at both ends. Best wishes, Kevin
Thanks 👍
Thanks!
Thank you! Merry Christmas!
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I’m glad it helped you out!
Thanks!