I know nothing about electrical and am just starting to learn before we get into RV living. Your style of explaining made the basics soooo much easier to begin to understand. Thank you!
RV life is the ultimate life true freedom beautiful scenery n waking up with sasquatch banging on ur window ( just happened to us a few days ago in upstate NY) but it was awesome I seen him in my camera that's how I Kno unless a 8ft guy is running around the mountains in 23 deg n doing it 37 miles from civilization but hey it's earth were not as smart as we thought lol
Getting into the RV world and being a retired Electrical/Mechanical contractor I think you did a excellent job explaining the system. I enjoy the refreshing and learning anything new. Sub
Just this week I replaced a 30 pound converter in my 30 year old class A with a converter that weighs maybe 4 pounds and does much more for my house-batteries and D.C. system than convert A.C. The old one hummed 24 hours a day, the new one is silent. I think that old converter ruined my 2 new lead-acid house-batteries in less than 2 years. I also discovered that my AGM starter battery had been hooked to a non-AGM trickle charger and maybe that's why that Optima battery only lasted 2 years. I started on this voyage of discovery when I was cleaning terminals and found that there were 8 "short stop" switches, heat-sensitive switches fed by the converter and the one coming from the converter was defective. That was why my radio, tank-monitors, battery-readers, lpg alarm, water pump, captain's chair controls and under-cabinet lights weren't functioning. And, that's probably how I was able to purchase this motor home at such an unbelievable price. By replacing a $3.50 switch, everything functions correctly. Pure luck.
We dive in to the Autoformer and our thoughts on them in our EMS Surge protector video just because some RV Parks won't allow them. ua-cam.com/video/z-ATOr25oxs/v-deo.html
The new Ford SD trucks are isolated as well. When the truck is running it charges the trailer batteries but when the truck is off it does not scavenge off the truck batteries.
Thank you for your knowledge and experience. Ruth and I pick up our Tiffin 37AP on April 21 and electric is an area that we want the dealer to spend a lot of time with us. Thanks again!!
Very well done video. I'm on a Facebook RV repair group. I cringe at the questions asked about RV electrical systems and issues. I'm sharing this to the group in hopes it clears up some things.
G'day mate! Just wanted to give you a shout out all the way from Australia 🇳🇿 & say thanks for all the fantastic tutorials! Safe travels to you & the family✌️
There’s single phase, three phase but never hear of split phase. I do know you have two single phase 120v circuits in the panel and if you use a double width breaker you’re using both circuits which gives you 240v single phase
For those watching. The last RV park I designed was done with a three phase system voltage. Single phase receptacles at the pedestals. The point is, if you check the voltages on the 50 amp receptacle, you will get 120 volts from each hot to N&G. But you will get 208 volts from the two hots. This will cause you no issues! Everything in your RV is 120 volts.
Just started watching your videos since I just purchased my first camper. Appreciate the tips! One minor correction to your video is 240v is still considered single phase. It is 2 phases but is still not called 2 phase or split phase. It’s just single phase
Thank you Jared for another RV Instructional Video. Your videos are very easy to follow and understand and are especially important to new RVers such as me. Thank you for taking your personal time to help others.
Excellent work as always Jared. Most of what I know about these RV electrical systems I attribute to you. I even refer to your videos when talking with new RV owners I run into. Many thanks for what you do. It's a big help.
Helped alot bout what runs on ac and what runs on DC i was hit by lightning now have no air conditioning and converter has burning smell i have some work to do.
Thank you for a fantastic video. You provided a lot of information that should help me get started into the process of changing from lead acid 6v golf cart batteries to lithium. I will probably watch this several times.
Thank you for all your videos, they are really helpful.Rv electrical can be very confusing.We just purchased a coachmen 27qb class c motor home and got a surge protector after watching your video.
From what I understand on the rv pedi stool that the ground should be separate from the neutral. Not like your house where there both come from the same spot
The battery disconnect switch: I have noticed that when using shore power, if the battery disconnect is in OFF position, the rig has lights from the converter. However, the house battery is not charging ? Then, when switched to ON position (while on shore power), the battery gets a charge voltage. I should note, I disconnected relay that allows converter to charge chassis batteries so engine alternator is not charging lithium house batteries. No solar, too complicated.
YOU NEVER HAVE HAD THIS QUESTION BEFORE! We are long time subscribers. I have watched this UA-cam many times. I just bought the Champion 2500 duel fuel generator you highlighted in another video. Do I need to hook up a surge or EMS between my generator and RV? Thank you. Stay young and keep sharing and teaching!
Thanks for this...In over 15 years of owning RV’s we have never had bad shore power, and tbh I never gave it any thought until watching a few of your videos. Suffice to say it seems we have been very lucky. I’m having a lot of problems researching them (50 A) because every one seems to have a totally mixed bag of reviews and horror stories (Including your Hughes) so I’m really at an impasse as to which one to buy).
Fifth Wheelin' Food and Fixin', we have a progressive industry unit and had nothing but good luck. This was after the 2 Cheapo units sold at the big box camping centers. We looked at space craft and New horizons and they come standard with progressive industry EMS units. A little more expensive but you get what you pay for. Jared uses a unit to check power at the pedestal. I turn off main power to the coach then look to see if there is a problem due to mine being a hard wire unit. Just an opinion.
This is how i looked at it, when we had our small Travel trailers, we didn’t have an external or hardwired surge protector, we were a bit in the dark, and like you we were lucky, never had an issue. Then when we paid 5x more for a big rig on 50amp, all i knew is gotta get on this! i needed one now before picking up that new rig, so being i couldn’t decide on what hardwire one to get, I decided on any external one that had all the basic safety features all the other external 50amp brand ones had, found a camco brand 2/3 the cost of the others. It will do, at least i have one, and it has actually been pretty darn good so far. Does the same things as the others. Also i kept in mind that if your surge saves your rig from some issue, your surge is toast. So how much to spend, how fast i could get it were factors for me when i was looking for one. Now many months have gone by, i think about do i even want to deal with the hassle of a hardwire one, installing, then what if it gets fried? how easy is it gonna be to remove? replace? Things yet to think about. Cheers 🍻
I haven't had any problems with ours, like Chip Saunders we have the hardwired Progressive Industries and have loved it. I called with a couple of questions a few months ago of me adding a bypass switch and they were very helpful. I would recommend them.
This was superbly explained. I just got a van ready for "Camper conversion" it has all the electrical components. They were originally installed professionally but some of them are now disconnected. I am trying to figure out how things work as I want to relocate the cables and components. Unfortunately the seller had no idea how it works. With this videos (and searching the manuals for each of the components) I will try to make sense of it all. At least now I know the names and functions of the components :) and I can start making the diagram of the "how it should be" and match it with how it is. In case I get lost, anyone knows what kind of electrician/Mechanic can help me make sense of the system? Having a diagram will help me lots.
Question Jared! Using the Watch Dog surge protector is there a reason why you can't just plug into the 120V outlet (house type) instead of using a dog bone to plug into the 30AMP outlet.
Great video I really enjoyed it and learn so much. I do have some questions like , If a battery does not need to drop 50 if its total power, or you can damage the batteries. I had a friend that had 12 volt batteries he told me that he used them until the voltage came down to 6vdc . He then had the dc charger to start charging the batteries back to 13.6 Vdc. His batteries only lasted a could of months then they they were bad. I informed him that 50% of a battery is around 12.2 vdc. The reason is the current of the batteries drops so low that if you kept using battery power you will shorten the life of most batteries. Why do they not connect batteries that the battery bank voltage would be 48vdc ? Each time the inverter has to step the up the voltage their is power loss. Example 12vdc to 24vdc, and 24vdc to 48vde. Here you have a lost of power three times. Just a couple of things that popped up in my head. I'm trying to understand. Is it true that Lifepo4 can be discharged to 0vdc and will not hurt the batteries. Most of these type batteries have a 11 year warranty. It has been stated that these type of batteries can last 4 times longer than other type batteries ? I believe if you could run everything of this DCV. You would not need an inverter what so ever. The battery pack could be arranged that the need for AC power you would not need ? Just something to think about ? Call me crazy ! !
Jerad, I think of my Class A motor home as having 4 electrical systems: 1) Chassis 12 VDC, 2) House 12 VDC, 3) Inverter 120 VAC, and 4) Shore/Generator 120 VAC. There are appliances that only operate on one of these 4 different systems. (I have a 2008 Tiffin Phaeton.) Examples: The Chassis 12 VDC (#1) powers the cockpit radio, the dash fans, and the passenger seat's electric recliner. The House 12 VDC (#2) powers the lights, water pump, propane heater fans, slides, vent fans, etc. The Inverter (#3) powers the compressor fridge, microwave, 120 VAC outlets, and a myriad of other plug-in appliances. The Shore/Generator (#4) power source is required to power the A/C units, washer/dryer, and electric water heater element. I would assume that most motor homes have similar systems to mine.
Can you explain when plugged into shore power, does running furnace or 12v equipment totally bypass the batteries and run off the converter? Or do they run off the battery and the converter is just provider a constant charge?
Referencing the battery disconnect during storage to save the battery from draining. If you engage the disconnect, does the battery still have the ability of being charged if you are plugged into shore power or does the disconnect totally isolate the battery completely? Thank you very much, awesome video.
This was excellent....and I studied electronics!! I'm a little bit overwhelmed but I'll sketch it out, figure it out and find where are the holes in my understanding.
Benn watching your vids and love them. I want to install an AiLi battery monitor on my Rockwood Afram,e and trying to figure out how to mount the shunt with dual 100 AH AGMs on the outside of the camper in battery boxes. This is only our 2nd year with our first camper.
Thank you! I’m new to motorized RV . I read about my isolator but had no idea what it did. Now I know. You explain complex things in an easy to understand manner. How about a video on keeping the chassis battery on a motorized RV charged and the options available.
Hey Jared, what kind of frig to you guys have? This really should be on you solar video. We're looking at ordering a new RV and can't decide between the residential fridge or the 2-way RV fridge. We plan to do a lot of boondocking.
Thank you every much to all of your video just finished my first trip to Holiday Park at west point lake and thank to all the video you have made by setup was fast and easy. I cant wait to do more upgrade and trips.
I plan on pulling my batteries out for the winter and put them on a trickle charger in the garage, as the trailer is in a storage yard with winters that can hit -30C here in Calgary. When visiting the trailer, can I plug my 2000w genset into "shore power " and have the 12v side work?
Thanks for your very easy to follow videos. My question has to do with a class A when the house battery disconnect switch is in the off position during storage. Will connecting the RV to shore power keep the house and chassis batteries charged? Specifically on a 30 amp system will a standard 120v 15 or 20 amp circuit provide adequate power for the converter to keep batteries charged?
Great video, quick question. Just for clarity in my mind. About 12 minutes into the video you mention removing everything from the negative side of the battery and putting "everything " on a busbar. Is there any chance you meant to say "you removed everything from the ""positive"" side of the battery" and put it on the busbar?
I plan on using a 21 Jayco Bungalow (50amp electrical plug in) as a permanent residence for about 5 years at a house. I will have a 50amp plug in installed with a 30 Amp and 20 Amp at the house. That being said, do I have to have batteries to run the Bungalow if it will be permanently plugged in? Or do the converters need batteries to send the power to DC related systems? Thank you and stay safe, Your channel is amazing.
Great videos, thank you!! I'm considering converting from 6-AGM 105 Ah house batteries to 4-Lithium 170 Ah house batteries, do I need to change my current system to handle the charging requirements for Lithium? Also do I need to change the 2-AGM chassis batteries to Lithium, or can I continue to use the AGM for starting the coach while using Lithium for house batteries, will they all charge correctly? We have 2017 Winnebago Journey 36M w/360XCL Cummins, it has the Magnum Energy MS2812 Inverter/Charger, ZAMP Solar ZS-30A system w/2-175 Watt panels.
Hi can you remind me of which video you speak about your incorporating the 110 plug into your generator, you had mentioned that some surge protectors won't allow current to pass. Thanks
Hey Jared, I was trying to find the video I watched where you used and aerosol product to clean the terminals on your shore power cord components. Could you let me know which video it was, and whether you would still use it? I was also wondering if you could use it to clean the trailer connectors?
I just recently got a 1993 Fleetwood Bounder Double Axle, and everything was working fine, three days ago the batteries went dead so I took a closer look at the hood, and noticed the battery connections, the hood has 3 batteries, two deep cycle and one start battery(note theres two solar cells on the roof wired to one of the cabin batteries) but im not sure how its all wired. I know the motor only needs one 12v start battery and the cabin needs 2 or more deep cycle batteries and im aware that the solar cells need a storage battery. If someone that can help would be great! Checking in from south south texas!
If you have your RV sitting for a month or two between trips, any reason you shouldn't leave it plugged in if you can? We have a 50A hookup on the side of our house. We thought it would be best to leave it plugged in all the time so the batteries are always ready for use.
Yes it should be fine to do that as long as you have a multi stage converter. If it is single stage it will end up killing your battery. There should be a model number on your converter, I would look it up to see what you have.
This is truly the only channel where I’m blown away from how great the explanations are. Also one of the few guys that I’m like - hey I could hang out with that guy!
Hello. I love your site. Thank you. My question is I have a 50 amp surge protector. I’m about to buy an RV that only has 30 amps. Do I need to buy a surge protector for the 30 amps, or will my 50 amp protector work? Thanks again.
At 8 minutes in, when I'm trying to understand the converter and inverter and shore power, everything started going crazy fast. I thought this was going to explain the process of power from the pedastal to maybe the fridge, lights, and fireplace. This went off somewhere confusing.
Do you know if campgrounds charge you more if you wanna use the 30 amp and the 50 amp? The reason I ask is because we have a mobile office that is a van conversion that we want to tow with our class A. It will not have sewer or water, but it will have air-conditioning and electrical. Have you seen anyone do this before?
I'm moving into a 5th Wheel soon & I'm a beginner in RV living. The RV is located on my nephews property next to his shop, I was going to hook up my 30 amp electrical cord to an outlet in the shop with an adapter. Would that be safe?, Should I only do that short term? Or should I just have an electrician hookup my own power source? I'm trying to find answers before I move into it full time. Any kind of information would be appreciated 👍
For my property, I am getting a 13000 watt generator for my RV. My question is, can I make a stationary breaker box post to connect my generator and then connect my RV to the box, or is it redundant? Should I just plug the rv directly to the Rv? My RV will be stationary at my property. How do I ground the Rv, or should it be the generator
Great video as usual. Always helpful and informative. Could you expand upon how you charge your battery from the alternator as your driving in a future video if you have not already covered it. Thanks !
I know nothing about electrical systems on an motorhome or any home for that matter. I bought a used 2000 Allegro motorhome and parked it at a storage facility. Before I locked it up I thought I turned every switch off on the control box but when I came back a week later I couldn't start the engine and all the lights were not working. Checked the switches and they were all on so I guess all 3 batteries drained. Now I don't know if I should jump start the engine battery without damaging the rest of the electrical system or the two house batteries. Any suggestions, advice will be appreciated.
I'm only at 4:45 so maybe you mention this later but I think I am correct in saying you don't want to go up (i.e., use dog legs) in amperage (e.g., plug a 30A RV into a 50A service)?
Is it possible to have a battery set up including solar and , bun-docking for 2 consecutive weeks without limiting the electrical use ? What would be THE BEST set up on an RV B or C model? Thank you very much. I’m tying to learn as much as possible before buying the RV. Any suggestions? For 2 people .
Can you help us understand the circuit between a 50 amp shore pedestal, through a dog bone down to 30 and back to a 50 amp RV with split circuit breaker banks? i.e., How are both breaker banks supplied by a 30 amp dogbone? My Grand Design Reflection was built with a 50 amp Input plug in case the owner ever adds a 2nd AC. Because the 50 app cable is so heavy and we only have one AC. I use a 30 amp cable..
I'm replacing my single stage converter with a new Progressive dynamics inteli-power 70amp smart charger. Do I need to size the battery charging wires for 70 amps?!!!! Im running a bank of 4 series/parallel deep cycle 6v batteries??? I don't believe The charging level should ever reach 70 amps! Thanks so much for your continued help! Rod
I would upsize the cables. The capacity of your bank is I'm guessing around 450 amp hours and at a 10%-13% charge rate could put you around 45-58 amps.
I got a question for you on the victron charger converter charger which one do recommend for my 30 amp travel trailer But I want to run my AC sometimes
Thanks for answering the alternator question. I was wondering about that when you have solar and lithium batteries installed. I'm assuming that means you are also able to use the switch (sorry I don't know the name of it) that bridges the house and engine batteries to start the engine should your engine battery lose it's charge.
As a general rule you don't want to use Deep Cycle LiFePo4 to start engines. LiFePO4 batteries themselves come in two distinct types as determined by cell type: Deep Cycle LiFePO4: essentially the distinction boils down to the amount of lithium present in each cell and the intended application which in this case is to power electronics for long periods of time. This type is designed with capacity in mind and at its heart stores lots of power in a very small package and as such has more lithium per cell. A deep cycle battery of this chemistry will not be able to crank your engine. High Rate LiFePO4: these are for starting motors only, the difference being that this type has dramatically lower lithium content per cell. However, the lower lithium quantity is not an issue because by design this type is only intended to output large bursts of energy for a short amount of time. As such, this type does not need that much lithium. While this type can be mistakenly used for a deep cycle application, doing so incurs significant risk as the high current rating has a high likelihood of damaging your load. These batteries are easy to identify because they have two distinct characteristics: A) a Lead Acid Equivalent Figure and B) have a CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) Rating. These two types are not to be confused or interchanged. While a High Rate will be able to power electronics, it will only do so momentarily as they by design do not have the storage capacity needed for extended use. Moreover, the high current ceiling will not mitigate current spikes the occurrence of which will damage your equipment. If you are powering equipment, you require Deep Cycle Batteries. If you are starting motors or powering your flash on your camera, the High Rate is the one for you. Remember the following rule of thumb: Deep cycle/deep discharge and high rate/starter are two different batteries even if they are from the same chemistry. This holds true for all battery types, even Lead Acid/SLA/GEL/AGM. A battery is either for deep cycle or for starting, never both despite any claims which may be made so make sure to double check your application and confirm your requirements before purchase. www.bioennopower.com/pages/faq-lifepo4-batteries .
I know nothing about electrical and am just starting to learn before we get into RV living. Your style of explaining made the basics soooo much easier to begin to understand. Thank you!
RV life is the ultimate life true freedom beautiful scenery n waking up with sasquatch banging on ur window ( just happened to us a few days ago in upstate NY) but it was awesome I seen him in my camera that's how I Kno unless a 8ft guy is running around the mountains in 23 deg n doing it 37 miles from civilization but hey it's earth were not as smart as we thought lol
Me too!!
I'll still need to watch this again to understand and probably have someone walk me through it in my rig.
Getting into the RV world and being a retired Electrical/Mechanical contractor I think you did a excellent job explaining the system. I enjoy the refreshing and learning anything new. Sub
Thank you for putting this in terms a layperson can understand. Well done.
Just this week I replaced a 30 pound converter in my 30 year old class A with a converter that weighs maybe 4 pounds and does much more for my house-batteries and D.C. system than convert A.C. The old one hummed 24 hours a day, the new one is silent. I think that old converter ruined my 2 new lead-acid house-batteries in less than 2 years. I also discovered that my AGM starter battery had been hooked to a non-AGM trickle charger and maybe that's why that Optima battery only lasted 2 years. I started on this voyage of discovery when I was cleaning terminals and found that there were 8 "short stop" switches, heat-sensitive switches fed by the converter and the one coming from the converter was defective. That was why my radio, tank-monitors, battery-readers, lpg alarm, water pump, captain's chair controls and under-cabinet lights weren't functioning. And, that's probably how I was able to purchase this motor home at such an unbelievable price. By replacing a $3.50 switch, everything functions correctly. Pure luck.
That's great!
Another good device like the Huges Autoformer that insures your not getting low voltage from the power pedestal.
We dive in to the Autoformer and our thoughts on them in our EMS Surge protector video just because some RV Parks won't allow them. ua-cam.com/video/z-ATOr25oxs/v-deo.html
The new Ford SD trucks are isolated as well. When the truck is running it charges the trailer batteries but when the truck is off it does not scavenge off the truck batteries.
How could anybody dislike this vid! He nailed it on this topic!
Thank you
I replayed hoping you showed and pointed out in a picture what the battery monitor looked like and where it is mounted in the RV.
Thank you for your knowledge and experience. Ruth and I pick up our Tiffin 37AP on April 21 and electric is an area that we want the dealer to spend a lot of time with us. Thanks again!!
How exciting!
Very well done video. I'm on a Facebook RV repair group. I cringe at the questions asked about RV electrical systems and issues. I'm sharing this to the group in hopes it clears up some things.
G'day mate! Just wanted to give you a shout out all the way from Australia 🇳🇿 & say thanks for all the fantastic tutorials! Safe travels to you & the family✌️
Thank you very much for your reply. It is much appreciated.👍👍
There’s single phase, three phase but never hear of split phase. I do know you have two single phase 120v circuits in the panel and if you use a double width breaker you’re using both circuits which gives you 240v single phase
For those watching. The last RV park I designed was done with a three phase system voltage. Single phase receptacles at the pedestals. The point is, if you check the voltages on the 50 amp receptacle, you will get 120 volts from each hot to N&G. But you will get 208 volts from the two hots. This will cause you no issues! Everything in your RV is 120 volts.
I have My Ac running every day, but I don't understand why it keeps turning off the breaker, Please help me I have 3 kids and it's about 120' Hot.
Great video of the overview of RV electrical systems for those of us that are new at this! Thanks!
Thank you
Just started watching your videos since I just purchased my first camper. Appreciate the tips!
One minor correction to your video is 240v is still considered single phase. It is 2 phases but is still not called 2 phase or split phase. It’s just single phase
The 50 Amp 240 V AC outlet is Single Phase and it is Split-Phase, not 2-Phase ..
Thank you Jared for another RV Instructional Video. Your videos are very easy to follow and understand and are especially important to new RVers such as me. Thank you for taking your personal time to help others.
Thanks
Excellent work as always Jared. Most of what I know about these RV electrical systems I attribute to you. I even refer to your videos when talking with new RV owners I run into. Many thanks for what you do. It's a big help.
Thank you that's very kind.
Helped alot bout what runs on ac and what runs on DC i was hit by lightning now have no air conditioning and converter has burning smell i have some work to do.
Thank you for a fantastic video. You provided a lot of information that should help me get started into the process of changing from lead acid 6v golf cart batteries to lithium. I will probably watch this several times.
Thank you for all your videos, they are really helpful.Rv electrical can be very confusing.We just purchased a coachmen 27qb class c motor home and got a surge protector after watching your video.
That's great!
Holy cow, thank you so much for this!! So easy to understand and very thoughtfully delivered.
From what I understand on the rv pedi stool that the ground should be separate from the neutral. Not like your house where there both come from the same spot
You are an excellent teacher. Glad I found your site.
Thanks
That was a ton of information but you explained it extremely well and it all makes sense. Thanks
Thank you.
The battery disconnect switch: I have noticed that when using shore power, if the battery disconnect is in OFF position, the rig has lights from the converter. However, the house battery is not charging ? Then, when switched to ON position (while on shore power), the battery gets a charge voltage. I should note, I disconnected relay that allows converter to charge chassis batteries so engine alternator is not charging lithium house batteries. No solar, too complicated.
Thank you, your videos have helped in numerous projects we have taken on.
Thanks glad they help!
Another informative video Jerad. Really enjoy what you put out keep up the good work!.
YOU NEVER HAVE HAD THIS QUESTION BEFORE! We are long time subscribers. I have watched this UA-cam many times. I just bought the Champion 2500 duel fuel generator you highlighted in another video. Do I need to hook up a surge or EMS between my generator and RV? Thank you. Stay young and keep sharing and teaching!
Thanks for this...In over 15 years of owning RV’s we have never had bad shore power, and tbh I never gave it any thought until watching a few of your videos. Suffice to say it seems we have been very lucky. I’m having a lot of problems researching them (50 A) because every one seems to have a totally mixed bag of reviews and horror stories (Including your Hughes) so I’m really at an impasse as to which one to buy).
Fifth Wheelin' Food and Fixin', we have a progressive industry unit and had nothing but good luck. This was after the 2 Cheapo units sold at the big box camping centers. We looked at space craft and New horizons and they come standard with progressive industry EMS units. A little more expensive but you get what you pay for.
Jared uses a unit to check power at the pedestal. I turn off main power to the coach then look to see if there is a problem due to mine being a hard wire unit. Just an opinion.
This is how i looked at it, when we had our small Travel trailers, we didn’t have an external or hardwired surge protector, we were a bit in the dark, and like you we were lucky, never had an issue. Then when we paid 5x more for a big rig on 50amp, all i knew is gotta get on this! i needed one now before picking up that new rig, so being i couldn’t decide on what hardwire one to get, I decided on any external one that had all the basic safety features all the other external 50amp brand ones had, found a camco brand 2/3 the cost of the others. It will do, at least i have one, and it has actually been pretty darn good so far. Does the same things as the others. Also i kept in mind that if your surge saves your rig from some issue, your surge is toast. So how much to spend, how fast i could get it were factors for me when i was looking for one. Now many months have gone by, i think about do i even want to deal with the hassle of a hardwire one, installing, then what if it gets fried? how easy is it gonna be to remove? replace? Things yet to think about. Cheers 🍻
I haven't had any problems with ours, like Chip Saunders we have the hardwired Progressive Industries and have loved it. I called with a couple of questions a few months ago of me adding a bypass switch and they were very helpful. I would recommend them.
Thanks again for the Ed.. on RV's..
Thank you for your videos. They are helpful. As new rv’ers we’ve learned so much.
Ensure emc device.. looking into. Thank u
You do a great job explaining things! Thank you!
Nice inset diagrams, thanks.
This was superbly explained. I just got a van ready for "Camper conversion" it has all the electrical components. They were originally installed professionally but some of them are now disconnected. I am trying to figure out how things work as I want to relocate the cables and components. Unfortunately the seller had no idea how it works.
With this videos (and searching the manuals for each of the components) I will try to make sense of it all. At least now I know the names and functions of the components :) and I can start making the diagram of the "how it should be" and match it with how it is.
In case I get lost, anyone knows what kind of electrician/Mechanic can help me make sense of the system? Having a diagram will help me lots.
Question Jared! Using the Watch Dog surge protector is there a reason why you can't just plug into the 120V outlet (house type) instead of using a dog bone to plug into the 30AMP outlet.
Great video I really enjoyed it and learn so much. I do have some questions like , If a battery does not need to drop 50 if its total power, or you can damage the batteries. I had a friend that had 12 volt batteries he told me that he used them until the voltage came down to 6vdc . He then had the dc charger to start charging the batteries back to 13.6 Vdc. His batteries only lasted a could of months then they they were bad. I informed him that 50% of a battery is around 12.2 vdc. The reason is the current of the batteries drops so low that if you kept using battery power you will shorten the life of most batteries. Why do they not connect batteries that the battery bank voltage would be 48vdc ? Each time the inverter has to step the up the voltage their is power loss. Example 12vdc to 24vdc, and 24vdc to 48vde. Here you have a lost of power three times. Just a couple of things that popped up in my head. I'm trying to understand. Is it true that Lifepo4 can be discharged to 0vdc and will not hurt the batteries. Most of these type batteries have a 11 year warranty. It has been stated that these type of batteries can last 4 times longer than other type batteries ? I believe if you could run everything of this DCV. You would not need an inverter what so ever. The battery pack could be
arranged that the need for AC power you would not need ? Just something to think about ? Call me crazy ! !
Appreciate how easy you make this to understand
Jerad, I think of my Class A motor home as having 4 electrical systems: 1) Chassis 12 VDC, 2) House 12 VDC, 3) Inverter 120 VAC, and 4) Shore/Generator 120 VAC. There are appliances that only operate on one of these 4 different systems. (I have a 2008 Tiffin Phaeton.) Examples: The Chassis 12 VDC (#1) powers the cockpit radio, the dash fans, and the passenger seat's electric recliner. The House 12 VDC (#2) powers the lights, water pump, propane heater fans, slides, vent fans, etc. The Inverter (#3) powers the compressor fridge, microwave, 120 VAC outlets, and a myriad of other plug-in appliances. The Shore/Generator (#4) power source is required to power the A/C units, washer/dryer, and electric water heater element. I would assume that most motor homes have similar systems to mine.
Can you explain when plugged into shore power, does running furnace or 12v equipment totally bypass the batteries and run off the converter? Or do they run off the battery and the converter is just provider a constant charge?
Another great video to help explain the complexity of RV electrical systems
Thanks
Referencing the battery disconnect during storage to save the battery from draining. If you engage the disconnect, does the battery still have the ability of being charged if you are plugged into shore power or does the disconnect totally isolate the battery completely? Thank you very much, awesome video.
This was excellent....and I studied electronics!! I'm a little bit overwhelmed but I'll sketch it out, figure it out and find where are the holes in my understanding.
Benn watching your vids and love them. I want to install an AiLi battery monitor on my Rockwood Afram,e and trying to figure out how to mount the shunt with dual 100 AH AGMs on the outside of the camper in battery boxes. This is only our 2nd year with our first camper.
Excellent presentation!
Excellent information. Thank you!
Thank you! I’m new to motorized RV . I read about my isolator but had no idea what it did. Now I know. You explain complex things in an easy to understand manner. How about a video on keeping the chassis battery on a motorized RV charged and the options available.
Do you have a video on wiring that 50 / 30 / 20 RV panel you showed in this video? Thats what I want to install.
Hey Jared, what kind of frig to you guys have? This really should be on you solar video. We're looking at ordering a new RV and can't decide between the residential fridge or the 2-way RV fridge. We plan to do a lot of boondocking.
Great video
Thank you for your easy to understand explanation of the electrical system. I learned so much of the basics that I had no clue about.
Thank you
Thank you every much to all of your video just finished my first trip to Holiday Park at west point lake and thank to all the video you have made by setup was fast and easy. I cant wait to do more upgrade and trips.
I plan on pulling my batteries out for the winter and put them on a trickle charger in the garage, as the trailer is in a storage yard with winters that can hit -30C here in Calgary.
When visiting the trailer, can I plug my 2000w genset into "shore power " and have the 12v side work?
Need a video of how the inverter works and how to know it’s working correctly,
Awesome and informative video!!
Awesome video, very well presented. Great job
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing
love this site, very handy
Where did you mount your battery monitor and how often do you check it? What does it look like? (battery monitor)
Thanks for your very easy to follow videos. My question has to do with a class A when the house battery disconnect switch is in the off position during storage. Will connecting the RV to shore power keep the house and chassis batteries charged? Specifically on a 30 amp system will a standard 120v 15 or 20 amp circuit provide adequate power for the converter to keep batteries charged?
Great video! Keep them coming.
I needed this .. Im new at this
Great video, quick question. Just for clarity in my mind. About 12 minutes into the video you mention removing everything from the negative side of the battery and putting "everything " on a busbar. Is there any chance you meant to say "you removed everything from the ""positive"" side of the battery" and put it on the busbar?
I plan on using a 21 Jayco Bungalow (50amp electrical plug in) as a permanent residence for about 5 years at a house. I will have a 50amp plug in installed with a 30 Amp and 20 Amp at the house. That being said, do I have to have batteries to run the Bungalow if it will be permanently plugged in? Or do the converters need batteries to send the power to DC related systems?
Thank you and stay safe,
Your channel is amazing.
Great videos, thank you!! I'm considering converting from 6-AGM 105 Ah house batteries to 4-Lithium 170 Ah house batteries, do I need to change my current system to handle the charging requirements for Lithium? Also do I need to change the 2-AGM chassis batteries to Lithium, or can I continue to use the AGM for starting the coach while using Lithium for house batteries, will they all charge correctly? We have 2017 Winnebago Journey 36M w/360XCL Cummins, it has the Magnum Energy MS2812 Inverter/Charger, ZAMP Solar ZS-30A system w/2-175 Watt panels.
Always great videos!! Very helpful
Great job explaining the electrical system in an RV! I learned a lot
Question if you are connected to shore power can switch off the batteries with a disconnect and still power all the slides and landing gear?
Great video - informative as always! Thanks - keep 'em coming!
Thanks very much.
great content, always look forward to learning something new on your channel.
🙂
Hi can you remind me of which video you speak about your incorporating the 110 plug into your generator, you had mentioned that some surge protectors won't allow current to pass.
Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/z-ATOr25oxs/v-deo.html. This is the one I show the neutral bond.
Hey Jared, I was trying to find the video I watched where you used and aerosol product to clean the terminals on your shore power cord components. Could you let me know which video it was, and whether you would still use it? I was also wondering if you could use it to clean the trailer connectors?
Yes absolutely, I still use it and I use it on my trailer connection as well. ua-cam.com/video/z-ATOr25oxs/v-deo.html
That was great! Thank you so much!!
I just recently got a 1993 Fleetwood Bounder Double Axle, and everything was working fine, three days ago the batteries went dead so I took a closer look at the hood, and noticed the battery connections, the hood has 3 batteries, two deep cycle and one start battery(note theres two solar cells on the roof wired to one of the cabin batteries) but im not sure how its all wired. I know the motor only needs one 12v start battery and the cabin needs 2 or more deep cycle batteries and im aware that the solar cells need a storage battery. If someone that can help would be great!
Checking in from south south texas!
If you have your RV sitting for a month or two between trips, any reason you shouldn't leave it plugged in if you can? We have a 50A hookup on the side of our house. We thought it would be best to leave it plugged in all the time so the batteries are always ready for use.
Good question I do the same thing.
Yes it should be fine to do that as long as you have a multi stage converter. If it is single stage it will end up killing your battery. There should be a model number on your converter, I would look it up to see what you have.
This is truly the only channel where I’m blown away from how great the explanations are. Also one of the few guys that I’m like - hey I could hang out with that guy!
Hello. I love your site. Thank you. My question is I have a 50 amp surge protector. I’m about to buy an RV that only has 30 amps. Do I need to buy a surge protector for the 30 amps, or will my 50 amp protector work? Thanks again.
I would get a new EMS Surge protector otherwise you always have to use the adapter.
Question: wouldn’t an adapter be cheaper than a new surge protector?
Thanks for the update, it makes sense now. Thanks again.
Say I am rebuilding a small canned ham trailer, I am wondering your thoughts on solar? For on shore, I am thinking I can run everything on 30 amp
Never mind you answered my question at 13:44
Learn a ton. Much thanks!
GREAT HELP. THANKS
At 8 minutes in, when I'm trying to understand the converter and inverter and shore power, everything started going crazy fast. I thought this was going to explain the process of power from the pedastal to maybe the fridge, lights, and fireplace. This went off somewhere confusing.
Do you know if campgrounds charge you more if you wanna use the 30 amp and the 50 amp? The reason I ask is because we have a mobile office that is a van conversion that we want to tow with our class A. It will not have sewer or water, but it will have air-conditioning and electrical. Have you seen anyone do this before?
I'm moving into a 5th Wheel soon & I'm a beginner in RV living. The RV is located on my nephews property next to his shop, I was going to hook up my 30 amp electrical cord to an outlet in the shop with an adapter. Would that be safe?, Should I only do that short term? Or should I just have an electrician hookup my own power source? I'm trying to find answers before I move into it full time. Any kind of information would be appreciated 👍
For my property, I am getting a 13000 watt generator for my RV. My question is, can I make a stationary breaker box post to connect my generator and then connect my RV to the box, or is it redundant? Should I just plug the rv directly to the Rv? My RV will be stationary at my property. How do I ground the Rv, or should it be the generator
Great video as usual. Always helpful and informative. Could you expand upon how you charge your battery from the alternator as your driving in a future video if you have not already covered it. Thanks !
I'll add that to my list of videos.
Great video and very comprehensive explanation. This was very helpful to this newbie.
Thanks.
I have a
GEARGO RV Surge Protector that protects my RV from blackouts so the electrical system doesn't burn out?
I know nothing about electrical systems on an motorhome or any home for that matter. I bought a used 2000 Allegro motorhome and parked it at a storage facility. Before I locked it up I thought I turned every switch off on the control box but when I came back a week later I couldn't start the engine and all the lights were not working. Checked the switches and they were all on so I guess all 3 batteries drained. Now I don't know if I should jump start the engine battery without damaging the rest of the electrical system or the two house batteries. Any suggestions, advice will be appreciated.
I'm only at 4:45 so maybe you mention this later but I think I am correct in saying you don't want to go up (i.e., use dog legs) in amperage (e.g., plug a 30A RV into a 50A service)?
That's what adapters are for.
Is it possible to have a battery set up including solar and , bun-docking for 2 consecutive weeks without limiting the electrical use ? What would be THE BEST set up on an RV B or C model? Thank you very much. I’m tying to learn as much as possible before buying the RV. Any suggestions? For 2 people .
Can you help us understand the circuit between a 50 amp shore pedestal, through a dog bone down to 30 and back to a 50 amp RV with split circuit breaker banks? i.e., How are both breaker banks supplied by a 30 amp dogbone?
My Grand Design Reflection was built with a 50 amp Input plug in case the owner ever adds a 2nd AC. Because the 50 app cable is so heavy and we only have one AC. I use a 30 amp cable..
I'm replacing my single stage converter with a new Progressive dynamics inteli-power 70amp smart charger. Do I need to size the battery charging wires for 70 amps?!!!! Im running a bank of 4 series/parallel deep cycle 6v batteries??? I don't believe The charging level should ever reach 70 amps!
Thanks so much for your continued help!
Rod
I would upsize the cables. The capacity of your bank is I'm guessing around 450 amp hours and at a 10%-13% charge rate could put you around 45-58 amps.
@@AllAboutRVs Thanks again! you never let me down! :)
I got a question for you on the victron charger converter charger which one do recommend for my 30 amp travel trailer But I want to run my AC sometimes
Thank you!
Thanks for answering the alternator question. I was wondering about that when you have solar and lithium batteries installed. I'm assuming that means you are also able to use the switch (sorry I don't know the name of it) that bridges the house and engine batteries to start the engine should your engine battery lose it's charge.
As a general rule you don't want to use Deep Cycle LiFePo4 to start engines.
LiFePO4 batteries themselves come in two distinct types as determined by cell type:
Deep Cycle LiFePO4: essentially the distinction boils down to the amount of lithium present in each cell and the intended application which in this case is to power electronics for long periods of time. This type is designed with capacity in mind and at its heart stores lots of power in a very small package and as such has more lithium per cell. A deep cycle battery of this chemistry will not be able to crank your engine.
High Rate LiFePO4: these are for starting motors only, the difference being that this type has dramatically lower lithium content per cell. However, the lower lithium quantity is not an issue because by design this type is only intended to output large bursts of energy for a short amount of time. As such, this type does not need that much lithium. While this type can be mistakenly used for a deep cycle application, doing so incurs significant risk as the high current rating has a high likelihood of damaging your load. These batteries are easy to identify because they have two distinct characteristics: A) a Lead Acid Equivalent Figure and B) have a CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) Rating.
These two types are not to be confused or interchanged. While a High Rate will be able to power electronics, it will only do so momentarily as they by design do not have the storage capacity needed for extended use. Moreover, the high current ceiling will not mitigate current spikes the occurrence of which will damage your equipment. If you are powering equipment, you require Deep Cycle Batteries. If you are starting motors or powering your flash on your camera, the High Rate is the one for you. Remember the following rule of thumb:
Deep cycle/deep discharge and high rate/starter are two different batteries even if they are from the same chemistry. This holds true for all battery types, even Lead Acid/SLA/GEL/AGM. A battery is either for deep cycle or for starting, never both despite any claims which may be made so make sure to double check your application and confirm your requirements before purchase.
www.bioennopower.com/pages/faq-lifepo4-batteries
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Good stuff!