1. That's not much of an explanation as to why the existing cable is insufficient. It looks like it's from what the 60s? and is effectively the same as modern romex. 2. NEVER just cut wires and stick them in the wall like that. Pull old/unused cable whenever possible. And if you have to leave it in the wall, cap and tape it off. While it's unlikely, you never know if someone is going to tie a live circuit into that deleted branch at some point in the future.
Romex from from the 60s was rated for 60 degrees C rather than 90 C of today's stuff (well, Romex dating to the 80s roughly). If they're going to go through the work of rewiring the wall, they're going to with a 12 guage, 20 A circuit, which should be modern romex.
@@nikkikiska It's about the temperature of the conductor at the rated load; the newer stuff is rated to be able to take more heat and not break down or start fires when operating at its maximum ampacity. 12 ga from the 60s will carry 20 amps the same as 12 ga from the modern era. Trouble is, very few domestic loads need a 20A outlet. Its ridiculous and pointless considering that power consumption in the modern era is less than it was then; lighting loads have reduced substantially in moving from incandescent to LED, and TVs and radios use a fraction of what they did then. What's the biggest thing that will be powered from that outlet? A vacuum cleaner? Total overkill. The old 14 gauge wire is fine. It's not clear if it was adequately grounded though--I didn't see a grounding strap to the back of the box or a ground conductor in the romex.
@@nominalvelocity All else equal, 19 amps on 12 gauge copper wire from 1960 will produce the same amount of heat as 19 amps on 12 gauge copper wire from 2024. Isn't the temperature rating the max ambient temperature that the wire can adequately handle its maximum amperage? e.g. let's say 20 amps on 12 gauge wire at room temp causes the wire to heat to 100 degrees F, and 20 amps on 12 gauge wire at 150 degrees F causes the wire to heat to 175 degrees F. (I think) the idea of the original responder's point is that cable from the 60s would possibly fail (I guess meaning that the insulation would break down) under these conditions while modern cable wouldn't.
It's very clearly explained in the first minute and a half of the video. He says" The wiring is inadequate ( radiant heating use a lot of current ) and the box isn't big enough for the wiring and the DEVICE ( I'm guessing "device" refers to some kind of controller/thermostat for the radiant heating ) "
@@davidquinn6161 the device is the switch or outlet. If they are adding more outlets then the box needs to be rated for additional space to hold more wires to get to the next box. As far as I can tell, this is the same house that got the buried warm air ducts so no radiant floor heat.
@@rupe53 Wrong. He clearly says the radiant heat panels are one of the layers of flooring - watch and listen to the first part of the video. About 1 minute in.
@@davidquinn6161 I misspoke on the ducts. Those grooves in the wooden subfloor are for hot water pipes. You would NEVER put heat wires in wood, never mind supply them via a wall outlet.
1:55 That’s either one hell of a surgically sharp chisel and/or the brick is marshmallow soft. I have a hard time believing that Mark was able to chisel that portion of brick that easily. I’ve had to do something similar on an old home I renovated. Used an angle grinder with a masonry disc. No way would I have gotten a clean cut line otherwise.
I know the wiring is old, it looks like copper though. Why not just place a GFI receptacle in it place? Unless of course more amperage is being required.
@@georgejetson4378 GFCI will fit but adding wires to add outlets will exceed the fill so a larger box is needed. I ran into this at my place when dividing a circuit in the kitchen so had to swap a 2 inch box for 3 inch replacement for the additional wire.
As usual... Everything is swell in a "This Old House" video. In real life... I wanted to see how they were going to protect the new wire where it comes out of the floor and goes into the wall.
@@saulgoodman2018 I believe it was disconnected. I rewired my house but I left some old wires in the wall. They're dead as I disconnected them at the breaker box. I'd say it safe to assume it was done here. If that old wire was live, I'd be with you 💯.
@@johnlebzelter4208 Im saying its not turn of the century brick and plus the wall isnt reinforced so its just not worth it. just use a new thin brick product to cover CMU
I've come to appreciate that around Chicago everything is in conduit and 4x4 boxes. Much easier to rewire (unless the conduit is rusted out).
Yeah, it's super nice for running new conductors, but super pricey for new builds. It does make sense if you're staying there a long time.
@@narlycharley True, though for houses built to last, eventually someone will benefit. Especially if the wiring is in a masonry or concrete wall!
" Nice cut" LOL I love Mark!!!!
They pulled that box out like ma'am you are the proud mom of a bouncing baby boy.
Two chisel taps in I would I have a 1 foot square hole in the brick. Mark makes it look so easy 😂
I wish they would do a ele. Aluminum to copper wiring
1. That's not much of an explanation as to why the existing cable is insufficient. It looks like it's from what the 60s? and is effectively the same as modern romex. 2. NEVER just cut wires and stick them in the wall like that. Pull old/unused cable whenever possible. And if you have to leave it in the wall, cap and tape it off. While it's unlikely, you never know if someone is going to tie a live circuit into that deleted branch at some point in the future.
There’s always one…
Romex from from the 60s was rated for 60 degrees C rather than 90 C of today's stuff (well, Romex dating to the 80s roughly). If they're going to go through the work of rewiring the wall, they're going to with a 12 guage, 20 A circuit, which should be modern romex.
Interesting. Do you think that cable will be subjected to ambient temperatures above 140 degrees F?
@@nikkikiska It's about the temperature of the conductor at the rated load; the newer stuff is rated to be able to take more heat and not break down or start fires when operating at its maximum ampacity. 12 ga from the 60s will carry 20 amps the same as 12 ga from the modern era. Trouble is, very few domestic loads need a 20A outlet.
Its ridiculous and pointless considering that power consumption in the modern era is less than it was then; lighting loads have reduced substantially in moving from incandescent to LED, and TVs and radios use a fraction of what they did then. What's the biggest thing that will be powered from that outlet? A vacuum cleaner?
Total overkill. The old 14 gauge wire is fine. It's not clear if it was adequately grounded though--I didn't see a grounding strap to the back of the box or a ground conductor in the romex.
@@nominalvelocity All else equal, 19 amps on 12 gauge copper wire from 1960 will produce the same amount of heat as 19 amps on 12 gauge copper wire from 2024. Isn't the temperature rating the max ambient temperature that the wire can adequately handle its maximum amperage? e.g. let's say 20 amps on 12 gauge wire at room temp causes the wire to heat to 100 degrees F, and 20 amps on 12 gauge wire at 150 degrees F causes the wire to heat to 175 degrees F. (I think) the idea of the original responder's point is that cable from the 60s would possibly fail (I guess meaning that the insulation would break down) under these conditions while modern cable wouldn't.
Kevin ons the job !!!
Nice cut. F
kevin so funny lol
2 pros on one outlet 3500 dollars !!!
Hi 👋
I'm not understanding what they're trying to accomplish here.
They're looking for a way to add some receptacles. The new wiring will be hidden under the faux floor.
It's very clearly explained in the first minute and a half of the video. He says" The wiring is inadequate ( radiant heating use a lot of current ) and the box isn't big enough for the wiring and the DEVICE ( I'm guessing "device" refers to some kind of controller/thermostat for the radiant heating ) "
@@davidquinn6161 the device is the switch or outlet. If they are adding more outlets then the box needs to be rated for additional space to hold more wires to get to the next box. As far as I can tell, this is the same house that got the buried warm air ducts so no radiant floor heat.
@@rupe53 Wrong. He clearly says the radiant heat panels are one of the layers of flooring - watch and listen to the first part of the video. About 1 minute in.
@@davidquinn6161 I misspoke on the ducts. Those grooves in the wooden subfloor are for hot water pipes. You would NEVER put heat wires in wood, never mind supply them via a wall outlet.
Good thing Heath's not wearing that Boston hat in Yankees-Country!
they should have covered options if it was a solid wall. In the old days they used to bury wires in concrete walls all the time.
1:55 That’s either one hell of a surgically sharp chisel and/or the brick is marshmallow soft. I have a hard time believing that Mark was able to chisel that portion of brick that easily. I’ve had to do something similar on an old home I renovated. Used an angle grinder with a masonry disc. No way would I have gotten a clean cut line otherwise.
Those are those thing quarter inch bricks.
That was just mortar.
Also someone feed that fish tape for the other side of the wall
Touch of spray foam to hold the box in
Not easy to do looks good
😂 que cool😂
I know this might not work for everyone but conduit could be a chaper alternative if your ok with the look of it.
Yes you’re seeing more of that now with Reno’s in old warehouse.
I know the wiring is old, it looks like copper though. Why not just place a GFI receptacle in it place? Unless of course more amperage is being required.
They could be doing it now because it'll be cheaper than later on after the remodel's complete.
Money !!!
GFI receptacle will not fit in such a small box.
@@georgejetson4378 GFCI will fit but adding wires to add outlets will exceed the fill so a larger box is needed. I ran into this at my place when dividing a circuit in the kitchen so had to swap a 2 inch box for 3 inch replacement for the additional wire.
As usual... Everything is swell in a "This Old House" video. In real life...
I wanted to see how they were going to protect the new wire where it comes out of the floor and goes into the wall.
Masonary? ???
Don't tell me he is just leaving the old wire in the wall?
What's the harm in that?
@@oldhandyluke Really? What's the harm of having a live wire in the wall?
Is that a real question?
@saulgoodman2018 in what world is it live?
@@saulgoodman2018 I believe it was disconnected. I rewired my house but I left some old wires in the wall. They're dead as I disconnected them at the breaker box. I'd say it safe to assume it was done here. If that old wire was live, I'd be with you 💯.
@@figrollin What is the other end connected to?
I wonder how well it works with more snow. That torm left less than an inch of snow.
"antique brick" lmao
He said the wiring goof.
@@johnlebzelter4208 Im saying its not turn of the century brick and plus the wall isnt reinforced so its just not worth it. just use a new thin brick product to cover CMU
How do professionals who work with brick still use the term "masonary"?
Hi 👋