Hello. I'm a former Florida boy, boomer living in San Diego. I grew up in Palm Beach County in the very early 70's and also lived in The Keys for over a decade. I spent 40 years of my life fishing and boating up and down the Florida coast including spending a lot of time in Broward and Dade. Anyway, I just recently discovered your channel and I wanted you to know that I really dig your videos. Kind of surprised you haven't expanded your subs yet. But good luck in doing so in the future. I'll keep watching so keep 'em coming!
Thanks for the message. It’s been hard to grow subs I’m probably going to change how I publish videos soon. It takes too much time for absolutely no financial return.
Great video, I wish I saw this before I tried to make the mold for my anchor hatch yesterday. Definitely going to break my current mold down and use your technique, thanks for sharing and those corner templates look like they work like a dream!
@@boatcrafterscollective Good deal I will check it out. I may switch my intent as time goes on, but as you can imagine in choosing to build a boat myself, my intent is to build every component of it as part of the process. But, your instruction is super helpful and I have the stuff to do it from a tool and ability standpoint. The "what to do" aspect is sometimes the hardest part. Doing it is just effort.
@@boatcrafterscollective Nobody needs to see more sanding either but it's not about the tasks.... IT'S ABOUT SEEING IT ALL COME TOGETHER with conclusion.
A small suggestion to save you a lot of time: get a caulking tool with the triangular rubber head with its 3 radiuses for initially spreading the filled material. On the outside fillers, it may not.even need your ball tool, plus you won't have to go back and scrape off the leftover windrows, because of the triangular "wings". I'm not a boatswright, but a contractor, so I may not know the consistency of your epoxy, but it looked like caulk to me! Thought I was gonna choke on that Mighty Dam Fine dust, 'till I saw you were masked!
The caulk gun would work but the radius tool is still needed to make sure the radius on the hatch mold matches the radius on the lid mold. If I was doing a big area it might be worth the extra effort of stuffing the caulking tube.
@@boatcrafterscollective No, what I said was you'd use the TOOL made for spreading caulk, but you could also stuff a tube - I've colored caulk with paint and put it back in to use. Another trick is a small rubber ball, like off one of those paddles with the long rubber band, but there is also a small kit I used to see at depot or Lowe's with a bunch of plastic scrapers, with all sorts of radiuses. I used to cut old credit cards and sand the edges, and they work great!
@@boatcrafterscollective can you put epoxy into ziplock bag then cut corner to distribute a bead of epoxy then use radius tool? fold zipbag inside out dump epoxy in corner then fold back like a frosting dispenser bag?
Russ u mentioned the molding/cake tools on Amazon store I was wondering about the router bits I’ve been looking for some like yours can you forward a link. I’m going to try making my own hatches thanks to your videos 👍👍 great job we’ve spoken before you are a stand up guy thanks for helping out
Concise and to the point! Great job in explaining the build. Thanks for the help and ideas. I have top mounted plastic hatches now. I'm going to replace them all with fiberglass flush mount. I'm currently drawing the mold plans for my CNC machine. I noticed you have 3 radius corners and then one diagonal cut corner in the hatch drain frame? What is that diagonal for? Also, I've seen some hatch frames that have dimples on the hinge side of the drain frame to accommodate the hinge depth. Is that necessary? Could you address how you prefer to hinge a lid in a future video? And maybe any ideas for fiberglass reinforcing for attaching pneumatic lid lifts?
The diagonal cut is to make room for a water drain fitting. Sometimes I add a “puck” to the mold to allow the water drain fitting to recess. You can also do that for hinges if you want the hinges to recess into the deck. It all depends on what type of hinges you want to use to match others in the boat. You can use small pieces of HDPE to add the hinge recess and it allows them to be customizable in the mold. To mount lid shocks you’ll need a larger Flange on the inside edge of the receiver to allow for mounting. There’s many ways to modify this design to fit your needs.
Hello, I am making some hatch mold plugs out of MDF and started using bondo for the fileting, but its a ton of work, messy and sanding.. do you know if the duratec surface primer sticks to plasticine modeling clay? I will only be pulling a mold from the plugs so it's a one time thing.
I ended up doing a small scale test yesterday and can confirm that the Duratec Gray Surfacing Primer did in fact work with using plasticine modeling clay for the filets. First time using the duratec, put it on with a brush, so I didnt have to clean spray guns.. and .. oh wow.. is that nice to work with, sands very easy, buffs to a mirroring finish and very hard. Sprayed PVA over the duratec, then tooling gelcoat, a couple layers of chopstrand, some 1708 scraps.. mold popped off of test plug, no problem.. plug was fine, could use again..
For that project you could have put the plasticine on after the Duratec. For a one time mold you can smooth the fillets out nicely and you won’t see the transition in the final part.
Hey BYBW. Will you fiberglass me some hatch covers and frames. Something I can fiberglass into my boat. The molds you built will probably work for size. Pete
Hey Partner. I am in Palm Harbor and need a hatch like this one you made for the floor on my aquasport 222 im restoring, do you still have the mold for this one? If so would you want to make some money popping one out for me?
20x20 is $525 but I’m booked right now for about 6-8 weeks minimum. backyardboatworks.com/products/fiberglass-deck-hatch-lid-gutter?variant=39700880392249
@@boatcrafterscollective I would totally pay you that but I'm gonna need it sooner than that, I will keep you in mind though. Thank you sir keep up the good stuff
At 15:38, you said if you screw it up you have to start again. It’s just a mold - you can fill it with resin and shape until you like it. You obviously know what you’re doing - that just struck me for some reason.
At 15:38 I was cutting the master MDF lid mold piece with the router. If the bit slipped out the piece would be out of shape. Sure…I guess you could reset the bit and keep going and fill the mistake but it’s not easy to use filler to make a 90degree edge. It would be faster to cut a new piece than struggle with fairing out a mistake.
Hello. I'm a former Florida boy, boomer living in San Diego. I grew up in Palm Beach County in the very early 70's and also lived in The Keys for over a decade. I spent 40 years of my life fishing and boating up and down the Florida coast including spending a lot of time in Broward and Dade. Anyway, I just recently discovered your channel and I wanted you to know that I really dig your videos. Kind of surprised you haven't expanded your subs yet. But good luck in doing so in the future. I'll keep watching so keep 'em coming!
Thanks for the message.
It’s been hard to grow subs I’m probably going to change how I publish videos soon. It takes too much time for absolutely no financial return.
Great video, I wish I saw this before I tried to make the mold for my anchor hatch yesterday. Definitely going to break my current mold down and use your technique, thanks for sharing and those corner templates look like they work like a dream!
Thanks. I also sell molds and mold templates on my website. backyardboatworks.com
Man I'm going to have to give this a shot when I get to putting hatches in the casting decks. Great illustration.
Thanks. I also sell these complete ready to install. Backyardboatworks.com
@@boatcrafterscollective Good deal I will check it out. I may switch my intent as time goes on, but as you can imagine in choosing to build a boat myself, my intent is to build every component of it as part of the process. But, your instruction is super helpful and I have the stuff to do it from a tool and ability standpoint. The "what to do" aspect is sometimes the hardest part. Doing it is just effort.
Saved, saved and SAVED. Great video. can't wait to see you glass and pop the parts from the mold on this one.
Excellent Video.
I probably won’t make another video showing lamination on these molds. I have a few videos already showing mold lamination.
@@boatcrafterscollective Yeah, but leaving the viewers hanging. It would be great to see the series start to finish and the results.
I don’t think people want to see me laying more glass 😁
@@boatcrafterscollective Nobody needs to see more sanding either but it's not about the tasks.... IT'S ABOUT SEEING IT ALL COME TOGETHER with conclusion.
I’ll consider filming my next lamination. I’m making some hatches this week
Excellent video! Your the man bro! I feel confident about doing some custom hatches now! Thank You!!
DO IT!
Really enjoy these videos
Thanks
Thank you. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks
Very good. Thanks
I'm interested in getting a hatch mold made. It would be great to see the process of installing a hatch you have made in a deck.
I don’t have any videos of an install. Sorry.
Thank you for sharing!
Great video - thanks
Appreciated
Do you have part 2 to this?
A small suggestion to save you a lot of time: get a caulking tool with the triangular rubber head with its 3 radiuses for initially spreading the filled material. On the outside fillers, it may not.even need your ball tool, plus you won't have to go back and scrape off the leftover windrows, because of the triangular "wings".
I'm not a boatswright, but a contractor, so I may not know the consistency of your epoxy, but it looked like caulk to me!
Thought I was gonna choke on that Mighty Dam Fine dust, 'till I saw you were masked!
The caulk gun would work but the radius tool is still needed to make sure the radius on the hatch mold matches the radius on the lid mold. If I was doing a big area it might be worth the extra effort of stuffing the caulking tube.
@@boatcrafterscollective No, what I said was you'd use the TOOL made for spreading caulk, but you could also stuff a tube - I've colored caulk with paint and put it back in to use. Another trick is a small rubber ball, like off one of those paddles with the long rubber band, but there is also a small kit I used to see at depot or Lowe's with a bunch of plastic scrapers, with all sorts of radiuses. I used to cut old credit cards and sand the edges, and they work great!
There’s a lot of tricks. The stainless radius tool I use is a cake making tool. I have them in 10 different sizes.
@@boatcrafterscollective can you put epoxy into ziplock bag then cut corner to distribute a bead of epoxy then use radius tool? fold zipbag inside out dump epoxy in corner then fold back like a frosting dispenser bag?
thank you this was great. what about using a bag to squeeze the epoxy into the corners ?
Yes that will work. You can also buy empty caulking tubes at the hardware store
That’s super smart almost wish you showed the making of the parts after the molds let me ask you do you sell those hatchet ??
There’s a video on my page that I show some lamination. I need to make a lamination video for one of these by itself. Yes I sell them.
@@boatcrafterscollective how much are them $$$ I’m down south looking to add on a mako I picked up
Russ u mentioned the molding/cake tools on Amazon store I was wondering about the router bits I’ve been looking for some like yours can you forward a link. I’m going to try making my own hatches thanks to your videos 👍👍 great job we’ve spoken before you are a stand up guy thanks for helping out
I don’t have link available but you need a Spiral Flush Trim Bit and a Rabbeting Bit set with adjustable cut depth bushings.
Concise and to the point! Great job in explaining the build. Thanks for the help and ideas.
I have top mounted plastic hatches now. I'm going to replace them all with fiberglass flush mount. I'm currently drawing the mold plans for my CNC machine. I noticed you have 3 radius corners and then one diagonal cut corner in the hatch drain frame? What is that diagonal for?
Also, I've seen some hatch frames that have dimples on the hinge side of the drain frame to accommodate the hinge depth. Is that necessary? Could you address how you prefer to hinge a lid in a future video? And maybe any ideas for fiberglass reinforcing for attaching pneumatic lid lifts?
The diagonal cut is to make room for a water drain fitting. Sometimes I add a “puck” to the mold to allow the water drain fitting to recess. You can also do that for hinges if you want the hinges to recess into the deck. It all depends on what type of hinges you want to use to match others in the boat. You can use small pieces of HDPE to add the hinge recess and it allows them to be customizable in the mold.
To mount lid shocks you’ll need a larger Flange on the inside edge of the receiver to allow for mounting. There’s many ways to modify this design to fit your needs.
@@boatcrafterscollective Thanks! Appreciate all the Video "how too's". It's going to really help in the next few weeks.
Cool Thanks!
Nice and very interesting, lm just a beginner just wanted to look and learn from guys like you.
Hello, I am making some hatch mold plugs out of MDF and started using bondo for the fileting, but its a ton of work, messy and sanding.. do you know if the duratec surface primer sticks to plasticine modeling clay? I will only be pulling a mold from the plugs so it's a one time thing.
I ended up doing a small scale test yesterday and can confirm that the Duratec Gray Surfacing Primer did in fact work with using plasticine modeling clay for the filets. First time using the duratec, put it on with a brush, so I didnt have to clean spray guns.. and .. oh wow.. is that nice to work with, sands very easy, buffs to a mirroring finish and very hard.
Sprayed PVA over the duratec, then tooling gelcoat, a couple layers of chopstrand, some 1708 scraps.. mold popped off of test plug, no problem.. plug was fine, could use again..
For that project you could have put the plasticine on after the Duratec. For a one time mold you can smooth the fillets out nicely and you won’t see the transition in the final part.
Can you post the link to the ball bearing Fillet tool you used in this video?
Sure. You can find it on my Amazon store.
amzn.to/3iJYEI3
Hey Russ how would you go about putting the fiberglass receivers into a nidacore deck?
I made a post doing that on my IG page
instagram.com/p/CYPzZGeLU9Z/?
Is there a part 2 to this that shows the glass layup etc?
I don’t have a video on the lamination for this parts. This video shows some lamination info.
ua-cam.com/video/9mwEUv2I7Co/v-deo.html
Hey BYBW. Will you fiberglass me some hatch covers and frames. Something I can fiberglass into my boat. The molds you built will probably work for size.
Pete
Email russ@backyardboatworks.com
Might jus get 4 of the corner doohickeys one and done 2 steps
I don’t always use the same corner size.
Hey Partner. I am in Palm Harbor and need a hatch like this one you made for the floor on my aquasport 222 im restoring, do you still have the mold for this one? If so would you want to make some money popping one out for me?
20x20 is $525 but I’m booked right now for about 6-8 weeks minimum.
backyardboatworks.com/products/fiberglass-deck-hatch-lid-gutter?variant=39700880392249
@@boatcrafterscollective
I would totally pay you that but I'm gonna need it sooner than that, I will keep you in mind though. Thank you sir keep up the good stuff
At 15:38, you said if you screw it up you have to start again.
It’s just a mold - you can fill it with resin and shape until you like it.
You obviously know what you’re doing - that just struck me for some reason.
At 15:38 I was cutting the master MDF lid mold piece with the router. If the bit slipped out the piece would be out of shape. Sure…I guess you could reset the bit and keep going and fill the mistake but it’s not easy to use filler to make a 90degree edge. It would be faster to cut a new piece than struggle with fairing out a mistake.
Backyard Boatworks fair enough!
Instead of using your finger or tool to do the inside radius’s, you could always put the fillet epoxy into a sandwich bag!
I’d still have to use the radius tool but yes bagging works good
How should I contact you to purchase a 24 ×24 hatch ?
russ@backyardboatworks.com
The closest I have is 20x20