The added details like the hatches are a lot of work ,but they will add value to your boat and it's a way to make this boat special. The bottom line is if you like the look it's your boat and that's all that matters. When this boat is finished it will be the boat everyone wishes they owned. You two are doing an amazing job and most people can't understand how much planning and hard work it takes to build a boat of this size with all the added enhancements you've incorporated into the final design. It's looking amazing and I'm looking forward to see the end results.
Interesting as alway. The extra effort is really going to pay off with the great result of a flush deck which is going to look and function so much better. Good choice. Lots of lessons learned that made each additional one easier and better. And don't forget those shoes!
Holy moly guacamole, I thought, you bought a complete kit, with all the parts needed! It would be a huge job to complete anyway! But this kind of craftsmanship blew my mind! Kudos for you two!!!! Greetings from Hungary!
Good information. Hatches look great. I'm trying to not be a busy body, but.... I've made some really strong curved flush deck mounts (half circles under the deck) for my kayaks. These are known as Maroske Fittings. (I made a very poor quality video somewhere on YT about my variation.) I learned a couple of things. 1. Hot glue sticks make terrific molds. They bend tight corners without kinking. Two layers of teflon tape and slathered with release agent makes them pop off the finished tube. (The glue sticks stretch a little which makes them smaller. The teflon tape slides on itself. I've never had a fitting that wasn't absolutely smooth inside. Keep in mind that my fittings do 180 degrees in about 1" diameter - so tighter than anything most people are likely to need.) 2. Fiberglass/carbon sleeve - I can't say enough about fiberglass sleeves. So easy. So perfect. They're also very flexible so each size has quite a range. (It's been years so I can't be specific. You bunch it up a bit which increases the diameter, then slide it over the mold and pull on it to fit smoothly.) A lot of fiberglass/carbon fiber shafts are made just by slathering releasing agent on PVC pipe. (My experience is also if you give epoxy half a chance it will stick for life. I'm sure you're way past anything I know about this.) PEC might also make a good mold, and of course you probably don't need the tight curves I needed for my kayaks. I was just sailing on a 50' St Francis in the Bahamas where it was 'unusually hot' (My first time.) The one hatch we could usually leave open was over the owner's cabin shower (kind of like a mini bathtub). This is because any spray or rain just ran into the drain. That is something I will definitely look for; can there be hatches right over the showers? I kept making wisecracks about getting dorades.
Going through that process is very time consuming but it will be worth it, as you said, it's just time. When your done you'll be much happier you actually went that route. When it comes to the hatches.
Every time you cut through the deck fro below I can only think of what a leap of faith you have in your talent and expertise!! Super work and really interesting videos!!
I would use a design of mould that included a slightly raised section for the hatch frame to fix to. That way the frame to fibreglass seal is slightly elevated from the base of the drainage recess, therefore the joint is more likely to be above water and less likely to leak. I know this would result in the underside of the recess being a little greater, but I think it would be worthwhile.
Dang, I have to give you guys credit for taking on this build. This would be a project that would have at least a dozen people working on, on a daily basis. This is looking like at least a 5-10 year build.
Hi Matt, I am concerned that your drain holes from the sunken hatches are way too small. When sailing in heavy seas and constantly water coming over the deck, the water most likely will not get away fast enough and lead to hatch leaking. Another question, are the bulk heads strong enough as you know the Lagoon 450 have lots of issues with craking bulkheads and you building an unproven design are you sure these are strong enough? I have owned a Schionning Waterline 1480 catamaran (Eureka IV) in Australia for 5 years and done extensive fast cruising with her. Am a cabinet maker and handyman thus the questions. Watching your project with great interest and thank you for filming this amazing project for us all. Love the design of Max 44sc and think it will be a trend setter stiking that great balance between fast cruising and comfort.
In terms of drying your shoes I found out a technique when my hobby was long distance running in the UK. It rains a lot in the winter in the UK and in the summer, you have to know how to dry your running shoes. If you take out the insole and put loads of newspaper or paper towels or anything that is really absorbent, and really force it into your shoe, wait about 5 minutes. Then take it out and repeat with some more newspaper or paper towel and really force as much paper inside as you can. Then take it out and the third time you do this leave it for a few hours. Then your shoes will be dry, maybe not perfectly bone dry, but dry enough for you to wear them again.
Interesting regarding laying small to big, I repair jetski hulls and have been saying that if I put the large bit down first it adheres to the whole repair and then i get smaller and smaller as I go. works so far
Looking great guys! The attention to that mold was incredible; may hire Matt to put the finish on the next set of speakers I build! I thought I had done a decent job on a piano gloss, but he ruined me - with primer!! LOL Not sure you're back in MD yet, but this week must've been a nightmare for timing resins and cure. Humidity and heat all over the charts.
Just got back into Maryland a few days ago and had to stop working at lunch time on Friday, temps in the tent were over 100!! Now we're getting to the time of year where we'll be going back to work for a few hours after dinner when things are cooling off.
Try to keep the spray nozzle the same distance from the surface you are spraying. Using an arc motion applies the spray material heavier in the middle and thinner at both ends of the arc stroke.
Wet shoes. being in the BIZZ of working on luxury yachts in south florida. I KNOW the feeling. Now constructive criticism. When doing a spray job (gelcoat) AND the fiberglass job. Plan ahead, Wax the mold as needed entire mold. I prefer (mirror glaze mold release). After that is done, mask all inside/outside areas of the mold that are not likely to see gel or resin. All surfaces that will require gelcoat to be removed, should be masked on the mold with tape. Wax over the tape one last time. Once done PVA if you wish everything. Now after the gel coat job is done. pull the tape. I suggest using dog ears on the tape and I strongly suggest dbl layers. when ready to add glass layup there is no gel in the areas that would need to have it ground off. There is also a tape gap making it easy to get a plastic wedge in when removing the part from the mold. After removing the part from the mold it's 100% clean and ready to go for the next use minus some PVA cleanup on the mold and re-wax/reset. I do not use PVA on any surface that I'm expecting to have a mirror gelcoat finish from the mold. One more construction method TIP. When locating that hatch. Its better to use the two dot story line. Going off of the fwd bulk head. locate and draw your cut line as you did. Now on center (anywhere inside the cut out) Using a corner square, mark two lines in a row. drill set location holes on that line. top side you now have a FIXED location to reference off of. I also like using the hand held drill press. A drill press pluge adapter for things like cordless drills. Makes nice straight holes.
Matt, as with everything I suppose this is only the first, by the time you get done with all of them you will have it, "down pat" great job though she's coming along nicely, reducing dust in that environment could be helped by hosing down inside and outside of your enclosure before application, all the best to you and your lovely wife, Al
Great work guys. I feel sad for Jessica after she had done all that fairing work in that area. The Hatch needs to be there. It's great seeing you confident with your skills and knowledge to be able to tackle these jobs. Sorry I had to cancel Patreon. I meant to message but the cost of living has hit hard and I've had to cancel all my Patreon subscriptions. I'll be back once things settle down (if things settle down). Keep up the great work. 👍
Thank you for the kind words, and do not worry at all about having to leave Patreon, we completely understand that covering your cost of living comes first!
Detailing how to build a mold for a hatch is useful. I have hatch of my own I may be replacing this year. Hawking the Ecoflow Wave while carefully hiding its exhaust vents is deceptive.
Only so much information I can add for a 90 second promotion. 😉 There are ducts that come with it if you're using it for an extended time, but another promotion from the company shows that there is no water left behind when using for only a few hours at a time. 00:22 ua-cam.com/video/i139iAjzctY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EcoFlow
I have truly enjoyed you show. The ques for a portable air conditioner is ongoing for me. Please answer one question for me. Where does the hot air from the condenser go? is there additional ducting that you are not showing, or is this a water evaporative cooler. I would like to purchase a battery portable air conditioner, but an evaporative cooler would just raise the relative humidity.
Only so much information I can add for a 90 second promotion. 😉 There are ducts that come with it if you're using it for an extended time, but another promotion from the company shows that there is no water left behind when using for only a few hours at a time. 00:22 ua-cam.com/video/i139iAjzctY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EcoFlow
Are those fancy flush deck hatches really a good idea? One thing, the drains you glued in are not flush with the bottom so there will always be water akkumulating and stay there. Now you open the hatch and will get wet and also like e.g. bedding underneath the hatch. The good old aluminium hatches if somewhat protruding are IMHO a way more useful solution and just need a cutout for installation.
The drains are below the level of the mold. The flow is forward, to each corner, and to the drain. The benefit with flush hatches are that waves or high pressure water is not going directly into the seals due to the deck blocking that flow.... It's an issue with normal hatches.
Never heard of this catamaran. Congratulations for being ahead of the curve in wanting a performance cat. Most everybody spends years on a poorly designed hobby horse of a floating house before they say WTF.
Each builder is going to be different on where they would like their hatches and of what size, so Max Cruise does not add them as part of the mold. 🙂 Plus, other builders may not want to go with flush deck hatches, but instead the regular raised ones. That's the great part of the freedom of building this yourself.
Don't recall if you answered this question but I wonder do you have a rainwater capture solution? This makes fresh water management much easier and more efficient. I noticed that the new Xquisite 50 Power is making great use of water capture design - and also tipable bifacial solar panels (30% more energy from the same panel).
We have no plans for using a rainwater capture system at the moment, but after our 6 years of cruising previously, we have never needed more water than our watermaker has always provided us all the water we've needed. Plus, on this catamaran, we'll have even more solar power, allowing us to run our watermaker more frequently. 🙂
Do the boats built at the factory have the flush mount hatches? Or maybe an option as to which way you want, with increased cost if you want flush mount? You would think if they are always flush mount, they could have made that in the mold of the deck to begin with.
At the factory, they are making the production version with the flush hatches. The reason it is not already a part of the mold for the kit is so that each kit can be tailored to fit the person who is building it. Not everyone will want their hatches in the same places (or the same sizes), and doing the build yourself allows you the freedom to make those changes. 🙂
@@MJSailing That fit of the hatch looks great. Great that you can build something that you will be proud of and can sail the world in something you made with your own hands. Enjoying the videos. Keep it up.
At 18:24, you can see that Matt starts the process for drainage gutters. At the moment they're only leading forward to where the hatch is for our sail locker, but in the future you'll see us working to make another gutter from that area to drain the water over the hull side.
Hi Tim!! We've been back from Vietnam for a few days now, but it was such a great experience. And yes, Max Cruise has been very receptive to our ideas for their boats, and we had a lot of discussions about their 48 ft series (to be launched next summer).
how does the drainage design work, i can see a lot of crusty salt getting in those channels thatll need constant clearing.not convinced of flush hatches ....YET
We'll be featuring the drainage more in future episodes, as we add a gutter that will allow the water to be led off the hull side. Occasionally the gutter tubes will have to be cleaned, but all part of boat maintenance, and worth it to us to have the flush hatches. 😉
I love your show but, Matt please ware some knee protection. Crawling and working on your knees is fine until one day you discover it is not fine anymore, but by then it is too late
We're expecting the build will take us three years (two people working full time, plus extra hours towards filming and editing). The kit cost is around $165,000 USD, but total cost is up to the builder based on how they want to outfit the finished hull/bulkheads/furniture.
I also think I noticed a 2026 estimate, but judging from their progress and general competence, I’d say even 2024 could be possible, and 2025 looks probable. (I’ve built boats myself too.)
Will you make spares of any of the parts you make? Do you have a set of plans and specs that you will store on your computer and on a backup hard drive? And, will you prepare as-built drawings of plumbing, electrical, maybe HVAC that you install? :¬) Webhead USA
Hi Guys I may be completely missing the point here but shouldn’t this part you have created form a gutter to collect water splashed on the deck and direct it down the drain? There is no lip around the inside edge.
At 18:24, you can see that Matt starts the process for drainage gutters. At the moment they're only leading forward to where the hatch is for our sail locker, but in the future you'll see us working to make another gutter from that area to drain the water over the hull side. 🙂
Ok thanks for the reply. I was thinking that you were going to make your own hatch to fit the recess (which would leak without a lip to create a gutter) but now I’m guessing you will drop in a commercially produced hatch and frame (which will be fine).
Do not use to tick gelcoat, it is supposed to be 0,7 mm tick. If it is thicker it will shrink with time in the sun, and you will get cracks around the hatches. And they will be a shitty job to repair.
The innovative part is the weight, space and power use of the inverter based A/C.... It's also a dual hose system which I've never seen in this size. We have a 5k portable and a 12k and neither are close to as efficient with power as this system.
The added details like the hatches are a lot of work ,but they will add value to your boat and it's a way to make this boat special. The bottom line is if you like the look it's your boat and that's all that matters. When this boat is finished it will be the boat everyone wishes they owned. You two are doing an amazing job and most people can't understand how much planning and hard work it takes to build a boat of this size with all the added enhancements you've incorporated into the final design. It's looking amazing and I'm looking forward to see the end results.
Matt, your attention to detail. Is what will make this a great boat. I always enjoy your explanations and quality of work.
Thank you very much for the kind words!
Interesting as alway. The extra effort is really going to pay off with the great result of a flush deck which is going to look and function so much better. Good choice. Lots of lessons learned that made each additional one easier and better. And don't forget those shoes!
That's some seriously meticulous work! Very nicely done. That will be one stunningly beautiful boat when you're done. Everything is top notch!
Good to see you back. Missed you.
Matt and Jessica, your unending optimism and work brings such satisfaction. Every challenge you overcome is an inspiration.
Holy moly guacamole, I thought, you bought a complete kit, with all the parts needed! It would be a huge job to complete anyway! But this kind of craftsmanship blew my mind! Kudos for you two!!!! Greetings from Hungary!
Mold / product turned out great. Glad to see another video.
All your hard work will pay off in the end product.
Looking great guys
Good information. Hatches look great. I'm trying to not be a busy body, but.... I've made some really strong curved flush deck mounts (half circles under the deck) for my kayaks. These are known as Maroske Fittings. (I made a very poor quality video somewhere on YT about my variation.) I learned a couple of things. 1. Hot glue sticks make terrific molds. They bend tight corners without kinking. Two layers of teflon tape and slathered with release agent makes them pop off the finished tube. (The glue sticks stretch a little which makes them smaller. The teflon tape slides on itself. I've never had a fitting that wasn't absolutely smooth inside. Keep in mind that my fittings do 180 degrees in about 1" diameter - so tighter than anything most people are likely to need.) 2. Fiberglass/carbon sleeve - I can't say enough about fiberglass sleeves. So easy. So perfect. They're also very flexible so each size has quite a range. (It's been years so I can't be specific. You bunch it up a bit which increases the diameter, then slide it over the mold and pull on it to fit smoothly.) A lot of fiberglass/carbon fiber shafts are made just by slathering releasing agent on PVC pipe. (My experience is also if you give epoxy half a chance it will stick for life. I'm sure you're way past anything I know about this.) PEC might also make a good mold, and of course you probably don't need the tight curves I needed for my kayaks.
I was just sailing on a 50' St Francis in the Bahamas where it was 'unusually hot' (My first time.) The one hatch we could usually leave open was over the owner's cabin shower (kind of like a mini bathtub). This is because any spray or rain just ran into the drain. That is something I will definitely look for; can there be hatches right over the showers? I kept making wisecracks about getting dorades.
Really impressive work. Gret job with mold and hatches.
I love every effort in each detail. Thank you for the lessons I need to learn !
Keep going! You can do it! One small job at a time.
Going through that process is very time consuming but it will be worth it, as you said, it's just time. When your done you'll be much happier you actually went that route. When it comes to the hatches.
Geez!!! It is indeed a LOT of work. 😲
But it will be absolutely worth it once we're out sailing again. 😍
Two thumbs up.
Very beautiful
Very very impressive work Matt.
Thank you very much!
Every time you cut through the deck fro below I can only think of what a leap of faith you have in your talent and expertise!! Super work and really interesting videos!!
And we have to hope that our glassing, fairing, and gelcoat skills can only get better to fix those mistakes, haha.
I would use a design of mould that included a slightly raised section for the hatch frame to fix to. That way the frame to fibreglass seal is slightly elevated from the base of the drainage recess, therefore the joint is more likely to be above water and less likely to leak. I know this would result in the underside of the recess being a little greater, but I think it would be worthwhile.
For demolding use an air compressor with a jet nozzle. You will not scratch the mold.
.. Cheers to you. ..
Really impressive work. GreT job with mold and hatches.
Dang, I have to give you guys credit for taking on this build. This would be a project that would have at least a dozen people working on, on a daily basis. This is looking like at least a 5-10 year build.
There have been some speed bumps at the beginning with logistics and shortage of supplies, but we're looking to have her in the water in 2024.
great vid as usual thanks,
Could you build a small plastic tent (spray booth) to help eliminate any dust contamination for small projects?
Hi Matt, I am concerned that your drain holes from the sunken hatches are way too small. When sailing in heavy seas and constantly water coming over the deck, the water most likely will not get away fast enough and lead to hatch leaking. Another question, are the bulk heads strong enough as you know the Lagoon 450 have lots of issues with craking bulkheads and you building an unproven design are you sure these are strong enough?
I have owned a Schionning Waterline 1480 catamaran (Eureka IV) in Australia for 5 years and done extensive fast cruising with her. Am a cabinet maker and handyman thus the questions. Watching your project with great interest and thank you for filming this amazing project for us all. Love the design of Max 44sc and think it will be a trend setter stiking that great balance between fast cruising and comfort.
In terms of drying your shoes I found out a technique when my hobby was long distance running in the UK. It rains a lot in the winter in the UK and in the summer, you have to know how to dry your running shoes.
If you take out the insole and put loads of newspaper or paper towels or anything that is really absorbent, and really force it into your shoe, wait about 5 minutes. Then take it out and repeat with some more newspaper or paper towel and really force as much paper inside as you can. Then take it out and the third time you do this leave it for a few hours. Then your shoes will be dry, maybe not perfectly bone dry, but dry enough for you to wear them again.
I've spent so much time working in the rain and wet conditions it doesn't even faze me. Just wear em, they'll dry just fine.
This is a satisfying video great work!
Thank you so much!
Interesting regarding laying small to big, I repair jetski hulls and have been saying that if I put the large bit down first it adheres to the whole repair and then i get smaller and smaller as I go. works so far
Looking great guys! The attention to that mold was incredible; may hire Matt to put the finish on the next set of speakers I build! I thought I had done a decent job on a piano gloss, but he ruined me - with primer!! LOL
Not sure you're back in MD yet, but this week must've been a nightmare for timing resins and cure. Humidity and heat all over the charts.
Just got back into Maryland a few days ago and had to stop working at lunch time on Friday, temps in the tent were over 100!! Now we're getting to the time of year where we'll be going back to work for a few hours after dinner when things are cooling off.
Not having a hatch to trip over in a seaway will be well worth the effort. Plus, it looks great!
Thank you!! We'll be happy not to have anything to stub our toes on, plus they just look really good!
Try to keep the spray nozzle the same distance from the surface you are spraying. Using an arc motion applies the spray material heavier in the middle and thinner at both ends of the arc stroke.
Great Job!!! Thank You... :-)
Missed you guys last week!
I know!! Things have been so busy! But now we're back in the US and ready to keep getting videos out each week. 😃
Carl Sagan! Now I see what appeared familiar to me. Minute 08:07. You speak like Carl Sagan! Lovely.
Wet shoes. being in the BIZZ of working on luxury yachts in south florida. I KNOW the feeling. Now constructive criticism. When doing a spray job (gelcoat) AND the fiberglass job. Plan ahead, Wax the mold as needed entire mold. I prefer (mirror glaze mold release). After that is done, mask all inside/outside areas of the mold that are not likely to see gel or resin. All surfaces that will require gelcoat to be removed, should be masked on the mold with tape. Wax over the tape one last time. Once done PVA if you wish everything. Now after the gel coat job is done. pull the tape. I suggest using dog ears on the tape and I strongly suggest dbl layers. when ready to add glass layup there is no gel in the areas that would need to have it ground off. There is also a tape gap making it easy to get a plastic wedge in when removing the part from the mold. After removing the part from the mold it's 100% clean and ready to go for the next use minus some PVA cleanup on the mold and re-wax/reset. I do not use PVA on any surface that I'm expecting to have a mirror gelcoat finish from the mold. One more construction method TIP. When locating that hatch. Its better to use the two dot story line. Going off of the fwd bulk head. locate and draw your cut line as you did. Now on center (anywhere inside the cut out) Using a corner square, mark two lines in a row. drill set location holes on that line. top side you now have a FIXED location to reference off of. I also like using the hand held drill press. A drill press pluge adapter for things like cordless drills. Makes nice straight holes.
Matt, as with everything I suppose this is only the first, by the time you get done with all of them you will have it, "down pat" great job though she's coming along nicely, reducing dust in that environment could be helped by hosing down inside and outside of your enclosure before application, all the best to you and your lovely wife, Al
Nice job, fyi motor yachts has a problem with deck hatch noise from vibration. Trust you on sailboat issues. Again you guys have taken a huge project
Great work guys. I feel sad for Jessica after she had done all that fairing work in that area. The Hatch needs to be there. It's great seeing you confident with your skills and knowledge to be able to tackle these jobs.
Sorry I had to cancel Patreon. I meant to message but the cost of living has hit hard and I've had to cancel all my Patreon subscriptions.
I'll be back once things settle down (if things settle down).
Keep up the great work. 👍
Thank you for the kind words, and do not worry at all about having to leave Patreon, we completely understand that covering your cost of living comes first!
@@MJSailing not to go all political but it bloody sucks. As I say, I will be back.
Detailing how to build a mold for a hatch is useful. I have hatch of my own I may be replacing this year.
Hawking the Ecoflow Wave while carefully hiding its exhaust vents is deceptive.
Only so much information I can add for a 90 second promotion. 😉 There are ducts that come with it if you're using it for an extended time, but another promotion from the company shows that there is no water left behind when using for only a few hours at a time.
00:22 ua-cam.com/video/i139iAjzctY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EcoFlow
at 15:10, why didn't you cut in from above? Always loving your videos!
I have truly enjoyed you show. The ques for a portable air conditioner is ongoing for me. Please answer one question for me. Where does the hot air from the condenser go? is there additional ducting that you are not showing, or is this a water evaporative cooler. I would like to purchase a battery portable air conditioner, but an evaporative cooler would just raise the relative humidity.
Only so much information I can add for a 90 second promotion. 😉 There are ducts that come with it if you're using it for an extended time, but another promotion from the company shows that there is no water left behind when using for only a few hours at a time.
00:22 ua-cam.com/video/i139iAjzctY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=EcoFlow
Nice installation but wow that's a complex way to put a hatch in!
You need Wessies shoes!
Lot of acutall progress, less talking to the camera...i liked this one the most.
Are those fancy flush deck hatches really a good idea? One thing, the drains you glued in are not flush with the bottom so there will always be water akkumulating and stay there. Now you open the hatch and will get wet and also like e.g. bedding underneath the hatch. The good old aluminium hatches if somewhat protruding are IMHO a way more useful solution and just need a cutout for installation.
The drains are below the level of the mold. The flow is forward, to each corner, and to the drain. The benefit with flush hatches are that waves or high pressure water is not going directly into the seals due to the deck blocking that flow.... It's an issue with normal hatches.
@@MJSailing Thanks for answering, I could not see that in the video. Have a nice week building.
Never heard of this catamaran. Congratulations for being ahead of the curve in wanting a performance cat. Most everybody spends years on a poorly designed hobby horse of a floating house before they say WTF.
I admire your patience as I'd have torched that tent months ago, surly it would have been easier to form the hatches in the molding process?
Each builder is going to be different on where they would like their hatches and of what size, so Max Cruise does not add them as part of the mold. 🙂 Plus, other builders may not want to go with flush deck hatches, but instead the regular raised ones. That's the great part of the freedom of building this yourself.
@@MJSailing Fair enough.
Don't recall if you answered this question but I wonder do you have a rainwater capture solution? This makes fresh water management much easier and more efficient. I noticed that the new Xquisite 50 Power is making great use of water capture design - and also tipable bifacial solar panels (30% more energy from the same panel).
We have no plans for using a rainwater capture system at the moment, but after our 6 years of cruising previously, we have never needed more water than our watermaker has always provided us all the water we've needed. Plus, on this catamaran, we'll have even more solar power, allowing us to run our watermaker more frequently. 🙂
Do the boats built at the factory have the flush mount hatches? Or maybe an option as to which way you want, with increased cost if you want flush mount? You would think if they are always flush mount, they could have made that in the mold of the deck to begin with.
At the factory, they are making the production version with the flush hatches. The reason it is not already a part of the mold for the kit is so that each kit can be tailored to fit the person who is building it. Not everyone will want their hatches in the same places (or the same sizes), and doing the build yourself allows you the freedom to make those changes. 🙂
@@MJSailing That fit of the hatch looks great. Great that you can build something that you will be proud of and can sail the world in something you made with your own hands. Enjoying the videos. Keep it up.
Nice hatch, but how will it be waterproof without a gutter to drain incoming seawater ?
At 18:24, you can see that Matt starts the process for drainage gutters. At the moment they're only leading forward to where the hatch is for our sail locker, but in the future you'll see us working to make another gutter from that area to drain the water over the hull side.
that portable AC looks interesting but pricey in the bundle package
Are you sure the mdf isn't 5/8" and 3/4"? I'd like to see you roll into homeys and ask for 15 and 20 mm mdf.
Lots of work, but worth the look. These seem small for people hatches...
💖💖
Matt & Jess - are you still in Vietnam? Has Max Cruises changed anyrhing in the design based on your experience/ suggestions?
Hi Tim!! We've been back from Vietnam for a few days now, but it was such a great experience. And yes, Max Cruise has been very receptive to our ideas for their boats, and we had a lot of discussions about their 48 ft series (to be launched next summer).
@@MJSailing I can't wait to see your video(s) from Vietnam.
how does the drainage design work, i can see a lot of crusty salt getting in those channels thatll need constant clearing.not convinced of flush hatches ....YET
We'll be featuring the drainage more in future episodes, as we add a gutter that will allow the water to be led off the hull side. Occasionally the gutter tubes will have to be cleaned, but all part of boat maintenance, and worth it to us to have the flush hatches. 😉
You got the Fan nozzle on spraygun it the wrong plane turn 90 degrees.
I love your show but, Matt please ware some knee protection. Crawling and working on your knees is fine until one day you discover it is not fine anymore, but by then it is too late
upload date says June, but i see a heater........... LOL
ok, late May
why did you install that mould upside down ??? It will leak like crazy
👍
Could you share what video editing software you like?
I work in Adobe Premier Pro, but I've also heard good things about Davinci.
@@MJSailing Thank you!
How many years is this build going to take and the cost please!
We're expecting the build will take us three years (two people working full time, plus extra hours towards filming and editing). The kit cost is around $165,000 USD, but total cost is up to the builder based on how they want to outfit the finished hull/bulkheads/furniture.
When do you estimate that you'll be splashing? Seems a long way off at the minute!
Make a little scaffold room for clean space.
They estimate to be in the water by spring 2026
I also think I noticed a 2026 estimate, but judging from their progress and general competence, I’d say even 2024 could be possible, and 2025 looks probable. (I’ve built boats myself too.)
We're planning to splash no later than summer of 2024. Whatever it takes.
Will you make spares of any of the parts you make? Do you have a set of plans and specs that you will store on your computer and on a backup hard drive? And, will you prepare as-built drawings of plumbing, electrical, maybe HVAC that you install? :¬) Webhead USA
😀
Hi Guys
I may be completely missing the point here but shouldn’t this part you have created form a gutter to collect water splashed on the deck and direct it down the drain? There is no lip around the inside edge.
At 18:24, you can see that Matt starts the process for drainage gutters. At the moment they're only leading forward to where the hatch is for our sail locker, but in the future you'll see us working to make another gutter from that area to drain the water over the hull side. 🙂
Ok thanks for the reply.
I was thinking that you were going to make your own hatch to fit the recess (which would leak without a lip to create a gutter) but now I’m guessing you will drop in a commercially produced hatch and frame (which will be fine).
Do not use to tick gelcoat, it is supposed to be 0,7 mm tick. If it is thicker it will shrink with time in the sun, and you will get cracks around the hatches. And they will be a shitty job to repair.
as far as the advertisement... why not just install air conditioning in the boat as you build it?
Pretty disappointed that you would flog a $1500 A/C that can be duplicated with a $150 portable air conditioner with a $150 inverter.
The innovative part is the weight, space and power use of the inverter based A/C.... It's also a dual hose system which I've never seen in this size. We have a 5k portable and a 12k and neither are close to as efficient with power as this system.
Talk les mite get something down check life on hull see how it done from start
learn how to talk before you comment.
Its possible English isn’t his first language