Just found this. Thankyou for a master class aimed at average individuals,rather than a bunch of nerds or people who choose fairy liquid over happy shopper washing up liquid for a " well shiney finish".
Another beauty, delivered with exacting professionalism and care... Are you going to do a video on the full detail of the Red Hornet John? (Not the Silver Hornet). I loved the video you did of the full correction of the M3 - I find those videos particularly relaxing and satisfying... Who else agrees with me, or am I the only nutter here ?
yer I think so MAx, Ive had for like half a year now and done nothing with it and however glossy the paint looks its actually covered in swirls... Im gonna invest in a gopro so I can do some more POV stuff and on the fly videos. I just need to get 2-3 other videos done then I will do a polishing one on the M140.
Awesome video John. I'm a complete novice and not yet delved into machine polishing. Your videos are just brilliant, a great level of detail and honesty. Will probably wait until spring before i get my first DA but will do so much more confidently with your advice to refer to. Thanks for all your hard work. In the meantime, think I'm going to grab some TAC Systems moonlight to see me through the winter.
Amazing video Jon, thanks for your no-nonsense straight talking approach to demystify what can be sometimes a very confusing subject. Might be worth you chatting to some of your suppliers to package up a bundle of starter products for us novices to get us started. Thanks again
brilliant video. I'm a noob who usually just plasters wax on a car. So I think I have got a sort of order. 1.Wash and detail small areas 2. Claybar 3. S20 Medium cut with yellow pad on rotary polisher 4. Super finish plus with light white pad on rotary polisher and inspect 5. panel wipe 6. good quality wax (or sealer etc )
Very nice detailed video. Super helpful to someone like me who is suffering analysis-paralysis trying to pick the "perfect" tools to paint correct my car....
John its a travesty that you dont have more subs and views. Its clear you have a huge passion for this, and are incredibly thorough in your reviews and instructions. An absolute credit to the detailing community in the UK. I see you mentioned and recommended all the time on Detailing World and its obvious why. Been watching for a long time and enjoy every minute. Keep up the good work
cheers mate very kind. the channels always been for the purests and not the wider YT audience. getting views on YT is a dirty business. could write you an essay on that. I respect channels that hold back from playing that game, not many do.
Yep couldn't agree more - hes been my daily watch during lockdown. This channel has certainly helped over the last 8 weeks , great information, without any of the rubbish. Love the unbiased views and no over the top delivery of information. I can just leave John on in the background whilst I'm working from home and absorb his knowledge. I feel John has become my best friend during Lockdown. I think my girlfriend is worried I'm spending more time with John than I am with her :D
The more detailing channels I watch the more I realise where they get their information from. They all using glossmeters and test panels and doing tilt tests and chemical resistance tests. This is where it all started.
Great information, as I will be doing this on my own I think offering just a stage one for now as I imagine most customers will want car back after one day
What a fantastic and informative video. I'm new to the detailing world and have watched many vids now but none as complete and concise as this one. Thank you John. Your presentation, knowledge, and enthusiasm are great! i'm a subscriber now and Forensic Detailing is my 'go to' source for information. Well done for producing and taking the time to pass this on. All the best, Mark
I use fairy liquid / dish soap on the decontamination wash with Menzerna 3 in 1 on the cheap dual action. Works a treat on the old bangers I've been bringing back to life. Not perfect results but so effective for time, cost and effort put in.
Nice updated video John 👍 I was originally going to go with S20 black as my one step solution from your original video, but after seeing your “clash of the titans” video I’ve gone for the Sonax PF - looking forward to trying it with my DAS6P and HexLogic greens 😎
let me know how you get on with it Jason, use less product than you normally would and really clean the pad out well. its good stuff Im just not sure if I will buy more PF due to the cost but I do like it.
Hi Jon, great video as usual. I'm thinking of getting myself my first da polisher. I've watched all your videos covering the das6 pro das6 pro plus etc but what would you recommend a good machine would be for a newbie? Many thanks and stay safe 👍🏻
Iv seen lot of people counting 3 passes as 1 up down 1 left right then 1 up down gain think that’s better because it gets done faster or counting 2 passes as 1 cross hatch
Hi! I have just started to have fun polishing my car, I found it takes a lot more time to get the finish I want so I cleaned the car, used clay and polished / refined just the bonnet, than I have been polishing/refining one part at time, the fender, the door, the roof, I'm still half way to complete the car, i have to drywash my the part I inted to work on with some quick was spray, I use the Dino KRAFTPAKET machine with a short trow (seems to be popular here in germany), I changed the 6" plate for a 5" that feels better to use, for the pads I decided after watch your pads review, to go for the liquid elements centriforce and the rupes ones, and I found the rupes to be stiffer, I like more the centriforce ones, for compound I have the meguiars ultimate compund and polisher, that I used im my scale models, but I' using on my car the Koch Chemie H8 for polishing and P2 for refining, this P2 is said to have some carnuba wax on it so It may seal the surface in one go, for smaller places I have the meguiar's DA adaptor for hand drill with 3" plate on it and it's set of pads plus one rupes set, so far I'm having fun, just a bit affraid to carry out too much and eat into the clear coat, but I feel the clear coat on my car is too hard. Thanks a lot for your videos, they are very inspiring!
Thanks, I forgot to mention the main reason why I have to take it slow and do one piece per time, or day, is because I'm doing it in the building's parking lot and as I don't have acess to power outlet I have to relly on connecting one AC/DC power inverter on my battery and keep the engine running in order to power my toos, my inverter is limited to 800 w of steady delliver so I can't have a machine more powerfull than that, and using one inverter more powerfull would pottentialy drain my battery faster, so I have to do some compromises here and there...
Great video Jon, I may give the Scholl Concepts Polish a try. I was impressed with Meguiar’s ultimate compound and ultimate polish but want to expand my product range. Menzerna polishes are good, apart from the fact they dust up badly. Don’t know if it’s me that’s over worked them, got them too hot or what.
Nice little update Jon, full of useful info. Re mini polishers, as In2detailing seem to have run out of their own version, .......just after your review, .....do you have any experience of the Vertool one?
no mate but it will be fine. have a look at the chassis and spec closely and then compare it to other ones. most of the chinese ones are pretty much the same.
Watched plenty of your videos, now finally braving myself to do some machine cut and polishing. Only very light swirls on my car, any recommendations for an all In one product? And which pad? Again, it's only very light swirls.
I love the depth of your videos, awesome work as normal :) I noticed a subtle change from your last video: Last time you polished a quarter of your bonnet at a time however this time you polished a much smaller area. I'm interested to know why the change?
yer prolly a lot of other changes as well. main purpose of the older video was. get your car polished in one day. I think after you wash and decon it. you have very little time left. doing polishing sets on small 2b2 sections is cool but dunno gonna be hard to get the car done. With the scholl product you can defo work bigger sections but its obviously not ideal to tell people to polish this way. I have anothe rpolishing thing coming out now. they can never be perfect or universally correct but compared to most of the polishing guides out there they are more than decent.
Brilliant Jon, another Sunday afternoon masterclass. Tell me, I see a lot of vlogs where detailers appear to use cold water in their washbuckets, have I been doing it wrong all these years using warm / hot water in my main washbucket ? I would have thought shampoo would react better with warm water as opposed to cold.
warm water is always a winner but it just doesnt make a massive difference really Diane. In the winter is rocks to have a bucket of warm water because your hands literally freeze otherwise.
Hi John, I’m going to attempt my first da polish, my car is a 15 plate Peugeot 308 sw gt line, paint is in pretty good condition apart from swirl marks and a few light scratches. What compound would you recommend me to use for a first timer? I have got some meguiars ultimate compound would that do? If not would you kindly recommend what I need as you seem to know your stuff. 👍🏻
HI John, have admired your vids and tech info for some time, excellent presentation especially for novices. For some reason this year in our part of Aberdeen, we've had some plant debris that came from tree buds I think. Having not cleaned them off the car quickly enough, they have left a sticky residue from the bud, which having washed and now used a clay bar on, are proving difficult to shift by hand. There are without exception up to around 100 - 200 of these marks particularly on the bonnet and roof. I have a white car, and the marks being a brown, orange colour, it stands out like a sore thumb. I'm thinking to invest in a DA polisher and wonder if you could recommend a suitable combo of pad and polish. I should have mentioned that the sticky residue, has now over time become hard and solid.
In your opinion what is more important between: the quality of the machine, the quality of the pads and the quality of the compound/polish. I’m Guessing they’re all important but for eg: an ‘ok’ cheap and cheerful machine with great quality pads/polish vs top quality machine with decent pads and polish. What would you say is more important in order and also why? Many thanks 😊
absoltuely. And it would be my degreaser of choise. But its simply too expensive. Im BH's number one fanboy. you can only get 500ml of it and its 15 pounds. I use the panel wipe and its 11 quid for 5 litres. so cleanser fluid is like 12-13 times more expensive. And its so unusual for me to say this about bilt hamber because normally everything is great value. Ive actually emails BH about it and asked them to look at the viability of their pricing and also if they can selling 5 litres of cleanser fluid. The detailing scene theres a gap in the market with panels wipes. virtually every professional I know refuses to pay the prices of panel wipe products from "scene brands". So they buy 5 litres from body shop style brands. If Bh can offer cleanser fluid at competative prices to whats being used, then they have a charge for the entire market to take to their product like its taken to the other ones. If you do that you succeed as a business. If you dont offer value , then become the same as all the scene brands charging silly money.
What was Peter Hamber's response? Also, just watched your latest video on a Green star v Surfex, Can either of these products be used to degrease after polishing instead of BH cleanser fluid ? (Because they are cheaper) Thanks 👍🏾
I would not recommend a DA polisher with a 9mm orbit as a starter.. You should get one that has a 15mm. It will cut soooo much quicker!! The das6 pro 900w with 9mm orbit is good with a 75mm backing plate, but if you have a 120mm it is not strong enough so it will stop spinning and only do orbits.
I dont agree with you Multi, and its not often that happens. Let me say this. The das6 pro machine is less prone to stall that the das6 pro plus machine. Mainly because of the plate design. On the Das6pro there is no contact between the plate and the shroud and it spins really feely and is not that prone to stalling. The D6PP however the shroud rubs over the plate to supporting the plate and reduce wear on the bearing but it makes it much more prone to stall (unless you modify the tool). But ultimately free spinning machines are designed to stall as you move them over a panel, as you travel the panel over raised or curve areas the plate will frequently stop. Yes ideally you do not want tot be permantely stalling out the machine because its no where near as effective if its not spinning. I dunno mate personal preference comes into it. On rock hard paint sometimes using the D6P can be a nightmare, but sometimes it can be a bit hard with the 15ml throws as well. I find on hard paint you got to really slow down the arm speed with them if you want to work the swirls out.
So happy I found your channel, so informative ! I'm taking delivery of my JDM STi 9 which is in a good condition but will need a good polish so i'm learning the theory on UA-cam. Thanks for the advices John!
I want to start a ceramic coating business on the side while I continue with day job. I’m willing to invest in high quality equipment, what do you recommend for my essentials for a polisher/pads/etc. or could we chat in email? I love your channel and your passion to the detailing world
owen awesome go for it.. mate sorry not sounding arrogent but I cant answer questions like this in text to people, no you tuber can. really mate. heres some quick TIPS WASH DECON ABRASIVES PROTECTING TOOING/ACCESORIES. WASH AND DECON just go bilt hamber - except use a cheaper panel wipe degreasers. abrasives start with Scholl concepts. protection pick a good respected products you like.. if cermaic consider getting accreditation.. tooling/accessories etc.. personal prefer based on budget mate.
Great tutorial this stumbled on your chanel when i was looking for a DA and im totally hooked to the reviews ( the wife thinks ive left her :-) ). Ive just got my Das 6 Pro+ and i was wondering which small plate you'd recommend please?
I’ve clay bared the car, polished the scratches and holograms then waxed ( angelwax enigma) what could you recommend to maintain and keep the car popping and give a great gloss shine? Love your channel spend hours watching and learning.
I've been binge watching your channel and I've unsubscribed from AMMO NYC and Junkman. You are the go to guy from now on 👍 I've also done my glass with the Angelwax H2GO on your recommendation and it is fantastic 😀
Great vids on polishing for beginners.. I jumped down to the links to find the detailing brushes that you are using because fed up of buying brushes that just fall apart.. and I found links to every product but not one for the brushes lol..
Hi ya John,if i wanted to give my car a good going over with a wash clay cut polish ect,could I do maybe a couple of panels an evening? Maybe both wings 1 night,bonet the next night and so on?
great video guides but one vexing question I have had that is driving me nuts and isn't covered anywhere that I can find is a guide about backing plates. I'm completely new to detailing and I've read up and watched countless videos but nowhere does it tell a beginner what size and type of backing plate to use with what size pads Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Do I use a 125mm backing plate with a 125mm pad or a 150mm pad ? What size backing plate should I use with the 5.5mm pad that you recommend in your video? I found at by accident that the guild DA I bought from Argus uses a 5/16th UNF male thread backing pad but it would be very helpful if someone did a quick simple guide to all the different types of backing pad fixings and which type and size polishing /cutting pads to use with which size backing pads ie straight wall pyramid etc .
ok so you should look to use a 5inch /125mm plate generally for things like roof bonnet big flat panels. Most pads will have a velcro fitment that slightley exceeds the 125plate size. but 1-4mm overlap on the fitment is fine. You dont need to use the 150ml or 6 inch pad really. it will stall out more on a DA. yes it does allow you to cover slightley more ground quicker but does not matter for a guy at home. now if you want to go one step further you also buy a 75ml or 3inch plate that you can put on your DA. alloing you to use 80ml fitment pads. these small pads allow you to do bumpers, pillars, wings maybe.. more curvey areas etc... Be aware the hex logic pads. the smaller version of those is like 100ml with something like85-90mm fitment. And some places do actually sell a larger backing plate to fit these pads a bit tigther that the standard 75ml plates. Theres also lots of other exceptions to the rule and a general lack of standards around fitment of plates to pads.. so yer its a little bit of a lottery when you start.
@@ForensicDetailing wow thank you for the fast response and detailed explanation which is really helpful. I'll look out for a 75mm 5/16th UNF plate and some 80mm hex pads which should be perfect for small tight curvy panels . What threw me was the way the industry sizes plates by the fixing diameter not the hook and loop surface diameter on the pyramidal plates which of course have 2x diameters . Thanks once again
Hi excellent video I am trying to remove very minor swirls from a black motorcycle. There are some small chips that I want to touch in and compound back. Any videos on this would be appreciated.
you will need wet sanding skills really.. its not hard but its hard to explain Im no expert in this stuff theres good videos on you tube about it.. ill do one sooner or later mate
Hi John. Another great video. I'm really enjoying learning about the art of car detailing. I have a question, the Tetrosyl Pre-Wipe Degreaser that you use, is it a concentrate or do you use it neat, straight from the can?
Hi Carl, its not water based so you just use it as it. I would perhaps not recomend this for outside of a workshop environment. But its been a good degreaser for me. Its an option for sure I payed 11 quid for 5 litres. Just in winter leave it longer to make sure all materials have left the panel. below 10 degress it will take a long time to vaporise.
Dear Sirs, I stumbled upon your page by accident; and I’m also not some one within ‘the trade’ to be truthful but I wondered if you could or would be able to advise me. I tune pianos for a living and I’ve seen more than my fair share of scratches; from hairline to guages, in modern-ish 1960’s < through to today’s modern piano, but the finish/polish used in the production process I’ve picked up from listening to dealers is polyester, it’s meant to be a ‘hard’ finish but it is easily marked. The dealers use 3M cream I can’t find out what ‘model’ it is, but I have been approached a few times by clients wondering if I could remove the scratch. Is the machine you use and the fine/very, VERY fine compounds capable of doing a minor-ish removal of a scratch in this finish? I appreciate its not what maybe do, but a little help whether it’s to say ‘no’ or ‘yes’. Yours truly, ross
it can be done. Guitar clear can be a lot more similiar to car paintwork. Ive polished a few guitars. Piano clear I think is different. but again is can still be done. 3m polishes that are most used are called fast cut (their agressive compound) and finnesse it or ultra finesse they ultra fine polishing compound. when in doubt start with the least agressive. I would actually suggest you use the Koch range of abrasives. Their is a range called H9 (agressive) F6 medium, and M3 fine polishing. you can buy them in 250 ml bottles for like 13 pounds. I would buy the M3 first. And I would use thie polish on a Free Spinning dual action polisher just like I show in this video. I would start with the White chemical guys hex logic pad and M3. If that does not work I would step up for green hex pad with F6, and finally yellow pad with F8. Have a good strong light source when you polish, and test on an inconspicous area first. Be mindfull of chips in the piano paint system and any flaking paint.
@Forensic Detailing Channel, Hey John, I've recently bought a D6PP V2 (1000w), I'm now looking at buying the compounds and pads. Now the only thing I'm still not 100% on is, I have the 5" & 6" backing plate but what size pads should I be purchasing , I'm I right in thinking the pads should be bigger by half an inch, so 5.5 & 6.5 ? Being the 15mm throw I'll definitely be taking your advice by using the Quantom range. Great content John and very informative , Thanks .
ok so 5inch/125ml plates by either pads marked as 5inch pads (because they are describing the fitment size) or pads with the 140ml size like with flex. a few extra milimeters of velco will not hurt. just dont buy too small. so typically mate buy hex logic pads or the Flex purples and oranges I recomend and you will be 100% fine.
John love the vid and your advice, it’s great that you put links for products, but when you have an enhanced shopping list, I am flicking back and forth to your vid to sites to get what I need, whilst I appreciate you usually give a top 3 on products, can you incorporate a list on this channel, so muppets like me can print or save so we can tick off what I need and put an order in for the lot. Thanks Steve
Forensic Detailing Channel no I haven’t found a way to print from you tube, but in your vid on prep before polishing you go through a load of products, which you provide links for. Thanks for the time you take doing that, but can you suggest a way to get a list of products in one place so I can compile a list to place an order for everything in one go to save flicking back and forth to the vid or writing it down while I watch it.
When you do your sealant review try and get hold of some QP ON 2.0 from nano shine uk, or take a look at apex detail on UA-cam, he uses it quite a lot.
Dear sir, i love your videos as you know, please can you suggest any pre-paint correctios soap, that can prpeare the surface for correction, and it can remove some old waxes sealants and triffic film? kind regards from Athens Greece
I really cant marios, Ive only used a couple. One that I know works I dont think you can buy yet from one of my patreons. I would just like try and any strip wash detergent, like adams or chemical guys etc maybe..
@@ForensicDetailing we dont have adams or CG many products in my country, ok.............thanks you sir, keep up the great work helping us..............i always rewatch your older videos tiowithdraw more information and tips.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! happy.........Valentines.......!!!ololololololool
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply, I'm new to this lark, just did my car for the first time yesterday, the pads are flat that I have, What's the difference in the ones you use that have the fifty pea shape on the bottom, what's the reason for those ??
Hi John, absolutely love your videos as someone trying to start into detailing his own car. Got the deep clean process fairly well down thanks to you. In regards to compounding - would i be ok to compound the full car then polish, or should i only compound on panels that actually need it/have scratches or defects
ah mate this could be a long one.. ideally when removing swirls you cut the whole car and your finish it out. Its rare to have a patch of swirls on one panel for example and the rest on needs light polish. sometimes if you have a smart repair or you wet sand a defect out you might cut this bit for example. but essentially your asking me to give you a course of direction for a car I cant inspect so Im advising you blind which is dangerous. but I personally would cut and finish the entire car. your clear levels will stay consistent as well then.
@@ForensicDetailing I appreciate this response a lot thanks very much. It was more a question of: is compounding the whole car before polishing it a big no no. Most youtube videos i look at talk about it but only ever seem to show the actual polish stage and only ever talk about 1 square on a panel. Yea i understand where you're coming from - car wasn't well kept by first owner and i've had heavy use of it for almost 2 years with only learning how to do a proper maintenance/clean wash in that time, so this will be the first time since 2017 it's had something like a cut/polish so i think i will go for the full car cut/polish Thanks again
Great video, lots of useful information especially for someone like me 😀, just one question because i'm slightly confused , for one step correction with Koch or shool with type pad should I used? Middle cutting pad or polishing pad?
depends on the paint really the level of dfects and and hardness of paint. But Koch F6 or Scholl S20 with green hex pad or flex purple pad will be good option for most medium to hard clearcoats.
Does the compound and polish get erased when it got wet from the rain? or do I have to re-apply it often? this is the first time that i got a car, and i wanted to bring it back to its shine since it is already a used car.
Polish residue is mainly like oil and glycerine. It will wash off with hot water and detergent and panel wipes. Wax or sealants firm a more durable film that resists washing more.
Nice videos keep up the good work. I was wondering if there is anybody out there that could help me please. Ive got an old Clio Sport 182 in the black gold paint and its looking a bit shite so I decided to buy some gear and have a go at doing it myself. I had a go today with hex pads and Maguires ultimate compound. I tried various pads and a few passes and it looks to of hardly touched it at all no better at all really. What could I be doing wrong? it is still absolutely full of swirls marks even after two passes and two passes with polish, I have been using a DA could it be the compound just isnt coarse enough. Any help greatly appreciated, cheers
no sure what your region is buddy but just ask around check your online detailin reseller in your country. some of the UK guys ship globally for big orders as well.
Hi John, I have been told to finish on a lower speed than the compounding stage. Now I hear you saying to keep the same speed for compounding and finishing. Does this mean that the advice I have been given is incorrect?
not really Nick, there is no correct answer really. It could depend on what your doing with that polishing set and what the product your using is providing. say your doing multiple passes of polishing first one you want to work a bit harder and faster second one back off a bit , lift a bit more etc.. there could be a reason to drop the speed down depending on what your doing. but generally its not going to make too much difference. 4-5 of most DA's is a good sweet spot when compounding (generalisation though). compound on top whack and you can over work the compound and overheat pads and dust up some compounds.. slow down to 4-5 with that same product and it will behave generally. with finishing polishes your generating less heat, less friction, you can generally crank them a bit harder but really its down to individual. most important thing with the DA will be to work a bit slower with your arm speed imo. by all means though drop down to 3-4 if you want to when glossing up the paintwork with a finishing polish.
As always very instructive videos. John, little question, since a have a new car (mercedes a klasse), i was wondering what pad i should use in combination with Sonax EX 04/06 (love this polish). I already have CG Hex Logic orange, or should i go for the green hex logic as a one step, since the paint is good condition ?
you could single stage with that orange no problems. The orange is a nice closed cell pad, its not overly course. no need to buy the greens for hard merc paint.
2-3 h+v typically yes depending on speed. keep and eye on the polish/compound when it thins ot or dries stop say 3-4 mins of polishing max as a rough guide some will say less some more. machine speed between 4 and 5.
Hi, Thanks for your very informative demo's. I'm getting more into detailing now and have a Meguiars MT320 DA polisher but still need to compound and polish the hard to get to or narrow bits by hand. What would be the most ideal/useful piece of equipment to get next if had to make a choice between a paint thickness gauge or a nano polisher for the hard to get to bits? I intend to detail several cars for family and friends. Thanks very much.
Do you have to dry your car before doing the chemical Decon step? Bc I think I’ll use the clay mitt but I don’t wanna dry it then chem decon then wet it again for the mechanical decon, unless that’s necessary
you can use fallout remover on a wet car but not tar and glue because its mineral spirit based on water based. so some will FR after the wash while its wet. you need to rinse FR off.
@@ForensicDetailing Sadly no, as I’m totally new to detailing and only have minimal kit at the moment. I’ve recently bought a 2014 320D XDrive in red and just want to get rid of some of the minor scratches.
21:43 So this is the route that I think I'm going with, the sonax perfect finish as you mentioned it cuts and polishes. What pad should I use? Thanks in advance for your response.
Scholl S20 with the green hex should work well, have a watch of the how to polish a car with a DA for begineers video. its a decent starting point GRaham
Hi Jon, thanks for this contribution, few questions for you having polished a car for the first time with S20 Black: 1) My bottle seems to be full of the polish oil. It's as if the oil is seperating from the compound. I tried shaking it heavily for a longer period of time, but the product seems to stay seperated in the bottle. Any idea what may be iffy here? 2) I noticed that after a few panels, and having brushed the pad after every pass, the compound starts to dust. Is this a perfect example of a sign to switch to a fresh pad? 3) The S20 Black usually is easy to remove for everyone, but for me my microfiber cloth just sticks to it and it feels incredibly grippy. It's easier to remove if I give it a squirt with water, though. Might I be using too much product? Cheers!
yo bram. Ive never like noticed seperation with s20 but I cant see inside the bottle if you know what I mean, its not like a clear bottle. I just shake the crap out of it for like 30 seconds before first set and then like quick shake every 30 mins or so after that. These polishes can often seperate maybe like youve seen a pool of oil thats gone to the top or something.. If so Ive never had that with this product, its always been like perfect compisition of great when I squirt it out.. Its possible you have a bad batch, but highly unlikely. just shake the living crap out of it before you use it. s20 is awesome for low dusting.. Its like the least dusting product Ive ever used I think bar nothing really. s3 is just as good though really. However it is physically possible to make any abrasive polish dust. If you have a clean brand new pad and you work S20 and it dusts on that first set then something is going seriously wrong with what you are doing, Im thinking like with the DA on top whack speed and a really long like 5 minute set or somethign maybe its possible. If you watch my first "how to polish a car with a DA for begineers" video I polish in real time with S20 for a long time on speed 4-5 with a DA. so you can see it in action being worked. I also use a ton of abrasive and cover a quarter of the panel in one set as well. You can get nice long 2-3 minute sets with this on a DA with no dusting. dusting normally occurs as you continue to polish set after set and spent polish deep in the pad that cannot all be removed by brushing. this spent polish continues to dry and dry from the heat generate when polish and sooner or later it starts coming out the pad. I typically say 4 pads a car so you can cycle them. What also could be happening is the pad you are using is not new and you go to use it again and all the polish that was in there from the last time you used it has slowly dried to a crust inside the pad.. and it all comes out. The trick to solving this is after you swap pads say 1/4 of the way round the car that pad must go into soak so the polish does not dry in the pad. then really flush the hell out of the pad with a garden hose on good pressure and flatten it out to flush the water and repeat and repeat untill the water coming out is clear and not white or grey. 3) this problem sounds like bedding down (or thats what I call it). so you are seeing patches of polish that is a bugger to remove like they dont want to come off. Ive seen this happen on a variety of products. I noticed it on the normal rapid renovator the other day for example when I used with a soft pad. This problem tends to happen with softer finer pads and also when you use too much abrasive in combination with those pads. way way way less abrasive and a pad like the green hex and it should not happen. again you can see me buffing it off in the first polishing guide. I can get virtually all abrasives to bed down when I use soft fine pored "finish" type pads. should not be happening on the green hex's though mate. (if you tell me you were using greens Im gonna have to go back to the drawing board :) or Id start thinking you have a bad batch more perhaps). Im also gonna say one other thing about bedding down. Some say as well, if you blobb out dots on the pads the bedding down actually comes from the excess polish specifically on the blobbs on the pad. not sure if this is true but experiment with also priming the pad with you finger and then just plonking it down and spinning it up on the panel for a couple of seconds and then lay it out. rather than patting it and then laying it (Im not sure how true this is though). I dont often get bidding down but when I do I tend to just buzz it off with a quick pass.
Cheers for the swift response Jon! 1) It's indeed like the oil is sitting on top of the product. The first time after I shook it and I toppled it over, the oil just came out as if it were a bottle of water. 2) I used 2 pads for the entire car. I brushed them out after every pass, which is why I'm leaning towards having to use more pads. So I'm guessing I try to do too many panels with a single pad. It didn't dust with a fresh pad, but the longer I used it the more apparent the problem became. 3) Since it was my first time working with a DA, I tried three different pads with S20 to see what happened with each pass. I tried a black Meguiar's finishing disc, which did pretty much nothing unless I spent a very long time on the pass. I tried a Meguiar's microfiber finishing pad, and a white Chemical Guys quad pad. I opted for the white pad because I wanted to be able to really work the panel without taking off more clearcoat than necessary. Or at least, that's what I had in mind. The hardest pass to buff out was the pass made with the microfiber finishing pad. With all pads, I had the impression I had to apply pressure to the MF cloth to buff the product out, otherwise the cloth would simply stick to the panel. I'm guessing the point is that the product buffs off with minimal pressure. Which is why I'm confused what I'm doing wrong. Results were there, though. Guess I need to get me some different other types of pads, and see how each foam reacts. May as well just stick with your advice, and opt for a green or orange cutting pad. For some reason I'm just slightly worried with working these cutting pads too hard and taking off more clearcoat than I need to, if that makes any sense? Cheers!
the difference in what you will achieve between a white green and orange pad is pretty minimal. the abrasive is the thing doing the cutting really. A stiffer pad with larger pores can work more agressive compounds harder.. but you have nothing to worry about with the chemical guys green and orange as they are not especially agressive pads. But if your 2 staging you would be use the white pad typically with a fine polish and the green to yellow with the compound. I think you might have a duff bottle I have no idea. the only reason is I dont recal seeing what you are seeing. also if it tipped over and some of the liquid at the top fell out it could effect the ratios of the polish enough to maybe have an effect (possible but should still work). Hey just an idea as well. you could try sonax perfect finish instead of S20 next time. I think if you have a bad experience of a product they trying another one is typically what I do in life.
Hi John, just wondering if you know of any attachments for the Das6 pro to allow you to use micro 2 inch pads to get into those small to reach panels/areas? To save buying another micro DA polisher. 👍🏻
not really ive heard others say it dusts.. but I cant make this stuff dust. normally dusting happens from build up of old product in the pad set after set. make sure dust isnt old residue left in the pad. If you can make it dust rapidly on the first few sets your generating too much heat. slow everything down. This is oily product that should not be dusting up.
Hey John, hope you're staying safe and well. I watched your review on the Das6 Pro Plus and i bought that exact machine along with scholls S20. This was my 1st time polishing and i thought i was doing well until i inspected the results after. There were still plenty of swirls and i know all paint is different but i think that something wasn't right. I used the orange Hex-logic Quantum pad along with it but never primed it at all. Only putting 4-5 dots of polish on there and cracked on. The polish was really hard to remove off the panel which i thought was odd. Why is this? Should i of primed the face of the pad 1st with product then 2-3 dots after? I think that the pad was way too dry. Thanks!
Hey there first up shake the crap out of the polish. I think what you are saying is you are getting little patches of polish sticking to the panel and they are a bugger to remove. I call this bedding down. This can happen when the polish is sticking to the panel more than the pad. Believe it or not it typically happens when you use finer softer poored pads with agressive compounds and you get a fast build up of residue on the pad. You actually want to do 2 things. A stiffer pad, you will notice the orange hex pad is soft still, so is the yellow. And less compound, and a much shorter working time. Work clean at the start of each set and much shorter working time. what paintwork is it?
yes although you risk perhaps more detergent in a wheel cleaner/fallout remover combo, drying on the paintwork. the main thing with a fallout remover you got to let it react. and you dont want them to dry out. so I would test it first and see what happens if it dries and how hard to residue left behind is to remove if it dries on.
I've used a spray of wd40 on some tissue paper to clean tar spots off before washing the car fully, I haven't noticed any ill effects but am I doing harm to my car? It is fully washed and cleaned afterwards so I'm not leaving any residue on the panels.
not doing any harm. but WD40 have solvent in it to thin the like ptfe lubricant or whatever the lubricant is I cant remember. So like you spray it onto tar and the solvent can break down the tar. problem is you are also covering the panel is that crappy lubricant. WD40 gets used for lots of things. but I basically only tend to use it to help loosen seized nutz. I would just have a tar and glue remover in your detailing arsensal it will work out cheaper as well.
Polished my car car once in my lifetime, then cried as a quarry tipper lorry in front of me, sprayed his washers , and all the the lovely dirt and quarry dust ended up all over my paintwork...Thus never again...
Only if it has light defects or very soft paint. 205 is a finishing polish but has a fairly decent level of cut if used with with a more aggressive pad than a finishing pad. You'll need a compound if you're dealing with a fair amount of swirls though. Better off with something like S20 Black for a one step if you want a good level of correction though as said in the video.
Hello Jon :) Always watching your videos when I am riding a bike at the gym 😂 Would you say air compressor is necessary for cleaning residues off the polishing pads? p.s just got coat thickness checker after watching your video 😂
not 100% necessary no Ian, but would be great to have. for foam pads a soft brush will do fine. microfiber the polish really gets stuck in the fibers and you cant brush it out, it clings onto the microfiber better than the brush, so air can help there for sure.
Every time you clap your hands, I’m expecting you to jump on an apple box and start the gab. Not one clay bar, not two or three clay bars, not four clay bars? Oh no, I’m offering you five. Yeh that’s right….Five best quality clay bars for price of one. Now get your tenners ready and form an orderly, no pushing and Dell boy will sort you out.👍
Polished for the first time this weekend, thank you for the confidence!
Just found this.
Thankyou for a master class aimed at average individuals,rather than a bunch of nerds or people who choose fairy liquid over happy shopper washing up liquid for a " well shiney finish".
Another beauty, delivered with exacting professionalism and care... Are you going to do a video on the full detail of the Red Hornet John? (Not the Silver Hornet). I loved the video you did of the full correction of the M3 - I find those videos particularly relaxing and satisfying... Who else agrees with me, or am I the only nutter here ?
yer I think so MAx, Ive had for like half a year now and done nothing with it and however glossy the paint looks its actually covered in swirls... Im gonna invest in a gopro so I can do some more POV stuff and on the fly videos. I just need to get 2-3 other videos done then I will do a polishing one on the M140.
Forensic Detailing Channel Beautiful, just in time for Christmas 🎄
Max, I totally agree with everything you say and you are not alone, I think we all have a nutty-ness about us that follow Jon' vlogs.
Great video John do you use scholl s3 then s40 for the finish . Cheers
I agree. My wife says "are you watching ANOTHER detailing video?"
Awesome video John. I'm a complete novice and not yet delved into machine polishing. Your videos are just brilliant, a great level of detail and honesty. Will probably wait until spring before i get my first DA but will do so much more confidently with your advice to refer to. Thanks for all your hard work. In the meantime, think I'm going to grab some TAC Systems moonlight to see me through the winter.
Would love to see more videos like this John, they’re brilliant
Amazing video Jon, thanks for your no-nonsense straight talking approach to demystify what can be sometimes a very confusing subject.
Might be worth you chatting to some of your suppliers to package up a bundle of starter products for us novices to get us started.
Thanks again
brilliant video. I'm a noob who usually just plasters wax on a car. So I think I have got a sort of order.
1.Wash and detail small areas
2. Claybar
3. S20 Medium cut with yellow pad on rotary polisher
4. Super finish plus with light white pad on rotary polisher and inspect
5. panel wipe
6. good quality wax (or sealer etc )
Very helpful DA polisher demo, great tips, Thanks. I just got my first DA polisher, so your information will really help me get started on my car.
Very nice detailed video. Super helpful to someone like me who is suffering analysis-paralysis trying to pick the "perfect" tools to paint correct my car....
John its a travesty that you dont have more subs and views. Its clear you have a huge passion for this, and are incredibly thorough in your reviews and instructions. An absolute credit to the detailing community in the UK. I see you mentioned and recommended all the time on Detailing World and its obvious why. Been watching for a long time and enjoy every minute. Keep up the good work
cheers mate very kind. the channels always been for the purests and not the wider YT audience. getting views on YT is a dirty business. could write you an essay on that. I respect channels that hold back from playing that game, not many do.
I could not agree more, what a star this guy is!
Yep couldn't agree more - hes been my daily watch during lockdown. This channel has certainly helped over the last 8 weeks , great information, without any of the rubbish. Love the unbiased views and no over the top delivery of information. I can just leave John on in the background whilst I'm working from home and absorb his knowledge.
I feel John has become my best friend during Lockdown. I think my girlfriend is worried I'm spending more time with John than I am with her :D
The more detailing channels I watch the more I realise where they get their information from. They all using glossmeters and test panels and doing tilt tests and chemical resistance tests. This is where it all started.
everything you need to know. great content. as an amateur enthusiast these are my go to vids.
Great information, as I will be doing this on my own I think offering just a stage one for now as I imagine most customers will want car back after one day
Brilliant video learnt so much every video I learn more and more, the videos are shot really well , keep up the good work
What a fantastic and informative video. I'm new to the detailing world and have watched many vids now but none as complete and concise as this one. Thank you John. Your presentation, knowledge, and enthusiasm are great! i'm a subscriber now and Forensic Detailing is my 'go to' source for information.
Well done for producing and taking the time to pass this on. All the best, Mark
I use fairy liquid / dish soap on the decontamination wash with Menzerna 3 in 1 on the cheap dual action. Works a treat on the old bangers I've been bringing back to life.
Not perfect results but so effective for time, cost and effort put in.
Thorough thorough thorough video. A very easy watch!
For those that don't know - Sonax 04-06 is very similar to perfect finish for less money.
Nice updated video John 👍 I was originally going to go with S20 black as my one step solution from your original video, but after seeing your “clash of the titans” video I’ve gone for the Sonax PF - looking forward to trying it with my DAS6P and HexLogic greens 😎
let me know how you get on with it Jason, use less product than you normally would and really clean the pad out well. its good stuff Im just not sure if I will buy more PF due to the cost but I do like it.
@@ForensicDetailing I'd just buy the smaller bottles and re-order when they're done.
Cant stop watching these vids you make sense !
Outstanding, thanks for the great advice
Hi Jon, great video as usual. I'm thinking of getting myself my first da polisher. I've watched all your videos covering the das6 pro das6 pro plus etc but what would you recommend a good machine would be for a newbie? Many thanks and stay safe 👍🏻
excellent video but an end shot with the "finished product", a super polished 1 series would have been ideal
Another great vid jam packed with useful information. Well done Sir.
Great video - waiting for the promised 2024 update!!! Cheers!
Iv seen lot of people counting 3 passes as 1 up down 1 left right then 1 up down gain think that’s better because it gets done faster or counting 2 passes as 1 cross hatch
I never thought washing and polishing a car was so complicated 🙈
great timing of this video.... new to all this and this defo helps. Thanks for the email info!!
Hi! I have just started to have fun polishing my car, I found it takes a lot more time to get the finish I want so I cleaned the car, used clay and polished / refined just the bonnet, than I have been polishing/refining one part at time, the fender, the door, the roof, I'm still half way to complete the car, i have to drywash my the part I inted to work on with some quick was spray, I use the Dino KRAFTPAKET machine with a short trow (seems to be popular here in germany), I changed the 6" plate for a 5" that feels better to use, for the pads I decided after watch your pads review, to go for the liquid elements centriforce and the rupes ones, and I found the rupes to be stiffer, I like more the centriforce ones, for compound I have the meguiars ultimate compund and polisher, that I used im my scale models, but I' using on my car the Koch Chemie H8 for polishing and P2 for refining, this P2 is said to have some carnuba wax on it so It may seal the surface in one go, for smaller places I have the meguiar's DA adaptor for hand drill with 3" plate on it and it's set of pads plus one rupes set, so far I'm having fun, just a bit affraid to carry out too much and eat into the clear coat, but I feel the clear coat on my car is too hard. Thanks a lot for your videos, they are very inspiring!
great stuff cesar thanks mate. you have some good gear there and you can get great results doing what your doing.
Thanks, I forgot to mention the main reason why I have to take it slow and do one piece per time, or day, is because I'm doing it in the building's parking lot and as I don't have acess to power outlet I have to relly on connecting one AC/DC power inverter on my battery and keep the engine running in order to power my toos, my inverter is limited to 800 w of steady delliver so I can't have a machine more powerfull than that, and using one inverter more powerfull would pottentialy drain my battery faster, so I have to do some compromises here and there...
Great video Jon, I may give the Scholl Concepts Polish a try. I was impressed with Meguiar’s ultimate compound and ultimate polish but want to expand my product range. Menzerna polishes are good, apart from the fact they dust up badly. Don’t know if it’s me that’s over worked them, got them too hot or what.
Nice little update Jon, full of useful info. Re mini polishers, as In2detailing seem to have run out of their own version, .......just after your review, .....do you have any experience of the Vertool one?
no mate but it will be fine. have a look at the chassis and spec closely and then compare it to other ones. most of the chinese ones are pretty much the same.
Cheers I think I'll just go for the s20 black as I have never machine polished before .
Watched plenty of your videos, now finally braving myself to do some machine cut and polishing. Only very light swirls on my car, any recommendations for an all In one product? And which pad? Again, it's only very light swirls.
Very useful and informative, thank you
Thanks John 👍🏻
And I was bought up on using fairy liquid 😂
I love the depth of your videos, awesome work as normal :)
I noticed a subtle change from your last video: Last time you polished a quarter of your bonnet at a time however this time you polished a much smaller area. I'm interested to know why the change?
yer prolly a lot of other changes as well. main purpose of the older video was. get your car polished in one day. I think after you wash and decon it. you have very little time left. doing polishing sets on small 2b2 sections is cool but dunno gonna be hard to get the car done. With the scholl product you can defo work bigger sections but its obviously not ideal to tell people to polish this way. I have anothe rpolishing thing coming out now. they can never be perfect or universally correct but compared to most of the polishing guides out there they are more than decent.
Brilliant Jon, another Sunday afternoon masterclass. Tell me, I see a lot of vlogs where detailers appear to use cold water in their washbuckets, have I been doing it wrong all these years using warm / hot water in my main washbucket ? I would have thought shampoo would react better with warm water as opposed to cold.
warm water is always a winner but it just doesnt make a massive difference really Diane. In the winter is rocks to have a bucket of warm water because your hands literally freeze otherwise.
Hi John,
I’m going to attempt my first da polish, my car is a 15 plate Peugeot 308 sw gt line, paint is in pretty good condition apart from swirl marks and a few light scratches. What compound would you recommend me to use for a first timer? I have got some meguiars ultimate compound would that do? If not would you kindly recommend what I need as you seem to know your stuff. 👍🏻
HI John, have admired your vids and tech info for some time, excellent presentation especially for novices. For some reason this year in our part of Aberdeen, we've had some plant debris that came from tree buds I think.
Having not cleaned them off the car quickly enough, they have left a sticky residue from the bud, which having washed and now used a clay bar on, are proving difficult to shift by hand. There are without exception up to around 100 - 200 of these marks particularly on the bonnet and roof.
I have a white car, and the marks being a brown, orange colour, it stands out like a sore thumb.
I'm thinking to invest in a DA polisher and wonder if you could recommend a suitable combo of pad and polish.
I should have mentioned that the sticky residue, has now over time become hard and solid.
Your a king mate, I will just bring my taxis round to you and you could do your magic on them? hint hint !!
In your opinion what is more important between: the quality of the machine, the quality of the pads and the quality of the compound/polish. I’m Guessing they’re all important but for eg: an ‘ok’ cheap and cheerful machine with great quality pads/polish vs top quality machine with decent pads and polish. What would you say is more important in order and also why? Many thanks 😊
polish pads machine probably steve. expensive machines are smoother but they do the same thing.
@@ForensicDetailing thanks for your reply 👍
To degrease can BH cleanser fluid be used?
absoltuely. And it would be my degreaser of choise. But its simply too expensive. Im BH's number one fanboy. you can only get 500ml of it and its 15 pounds. I use the panel wipe and its 11 quid for 5 litres. so cleanser fluid is like 12-13 times more expensive. And its so unusual for me to say this about bilt hamber because normally everything is great value.
Ive actually emails BH about it and asked them to look at the viability of their pricing and also if they can selling 5 litres of cleanser fluid. The detailing scene theres a gap in the market with panels wipes. virtually every professional I know refuses to pay the prices of panel wipe products from "scene brands". So they buy 5 litres from body shop style brands.
If Bh can offer cleanser fluid at competative prices to whats being used, then they have a charge for the entire market to take to their product like its taken to the other ones. If you do that you succeed as a business. If you dont offer value , then become the same as all the scene brands charging silly money.
What was Peter Hamber's response? Also, just watched your latest video on a Green star v Surfex, Can either of these products be used to degrease after polishing instead of BH cleanser fluid ? (Because they are cheaper) Thanks 👍🏾
Cheers mate, great video.
I would not recommend a DA polisher with a 9mm orbit as a starter.. You should get one that has a 15mm. It will cut soooo much quicker!! The das6 pro 900w with 9mm orbit is good with a 75mm backing plate, but if you have a 120mm it is not strong enough so it will stop spinning and only do orbits.
I dont agree with you Multi, and its not often that happens. Let me say this. The das6 pro machine is less prone to stall that the das6 pro plus machine. Mainly because of the plate design. On the Das6pro there is no contact between the plate and the shroud and it spins really feely and is not that prone to stalling. The D6PP however the shroud rubs over the plate to supporting the plate and reduce wear on the bearing but it makes it much more prone to stall (unless you modify the tool). But ultimately free spinning machines are designed to stall as you move them over a panel, as you travel the panel over raised or curve areas the plate will frequently stop. Yes ideally you do not want tot be permantely stalling out the machine because its no where near as effective if its not spinning. I dunno mate personal preference comes into it. On rock hard paint sometimes using the D6P can be a nightmare, but sometimes it can be a bit hard with the 15ml throws as well. I find on hard paint you got to really slow down the arm speed with them if you want to work the swirls out.
So happy I found your channel, so informative ! I'm taking delivery of my JDM STi 9 which is in a good condition but will need a good polish so i'm learning the theory on UA-cam. Thanks for the advices John!
I've done a full day correcting my car still a lot of swirls on it. I've done everything you do. Any tips?
I want to start a ceramic coating business on the side while I continue with day job. I’m willing to invest in high quality equipment, what do you recommend for my essentials for a polisher/pads/etc. or could we chat in email?
I love your channel and your passion to the detailing world
owen awesome go for it.. mate sorry not sounding arrogent but I cant answer questions like this in text to people, no you tuber can. really mate. heres some quick TIPS
WASH
DECON
ABRASIVES
PROTECTING
TOOING/ACCESORIES.
WASH AND DECON just go bilt hamber - except use a cheaper panel wipe degreasers. abrasives start with Scholl concepts. protection pick a good respected products you like.. if cermaic consider getting accreditation.. tooling/accessories etc.. personal prefer based on budget mate.
Forensic Detailing Channel thank you!! I understand :)
Great tutorial this stumbled on your chanel when i was looking for a DA and im totally hooked to the reviews ( the wife thinks ive left her :-) ). Ive just got my Das 6 Pro+ and i was wondering which small plate you'd recommend please?
I’ve clay bared the car, polished the scratches and holograms then waxed ( angelwax enigma) what could you recommend to maintain and keep the car popping and give a great gloss shine? Love your channel spend hours watching and learning.
more angelwax enginma, use it and enjoy it you have iconic wax there. slap more on and top up the shine use it up or it becomes a ornament :)
I've been binge watching your channel and I've unsubscribed from AMMO NYC and Junkman. You are the go to guy from now on 👍 I've also done my glass with the Angelwax H2GO on your recommendation and it is fantastic 😀
great to have you here daniel, you can sub to other channels as well by the way. Its not a monogomous (sp?) thing here :)
Great vids on polishing for beginners..
I jumped down to the links to find the detailing brushes that you are using because fed up of buying brushes that just fall apart.. and I found links to every product but not one for the brushes lol..
detail factory brushes are the ones I use.. pricey but I love them.
@@forensicunplugged4295 Thanks buddy.. I will check them out..
Great video, thanks !!
Hi ya John,if i wanted to give my car a good going over with a wash clay cut polish ect,could I do maybe a couple of panels an evening? Maybe both wings 1 night,bonet the next night and so on?
What do you think of the rupes abrasives?
What if I use 5 inch pads on a 3 inch plate?
I done it to spread wax but im not experienced enough to know if it would work to polish.
great video guides but one vexing question I have had that is driving me nuts and isn't covered anywhere that I can find is a guide about backing plates.
I'm completely new to detailing and I've read up and watched countless videos but nowhere does it tell a beginner what size and type of backing plate to use with what size pads Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
Do I use a 125mm backing plate with a 125mm pad or a 150mm pad ? What size backing plate should I use with the 5.5mm pad that you recommend in your video?
I found at by accident that the guild DA I bought from Argus uses a 5/16th UNF male thread backing pad but it would be very helpful if someone did a quick simple guide to all the different types of backing pad fixings and which type and size polishing /cutting pads to use with which size backing pads ie straight wall pyramid etc .
ok so you should look to use a 5inch /125mm plate generally for things like roof bonnet big flat panels. Most pads will have a velcro fitment that slightley exceeds the 125plate size. but 1-4mm overlap on the fitment is fine. You dont need to use the 150ml or 6 inch pad really. it will stall out more on a DA. yes it does allow you to cover slightley more ground quicker but does not matter for a guy at home.
now if you want to go one step further you also buy a 75ml or 3inch plate that you can put on your DA. alloing you to use 80ml fitment pads. these small pads allow you to do bumpers, pillars, wings maybe.. more curvey areas etc...
Be aware the hex logic pads. the smaller version of those is like 100ml with something like85-90mm fitment. And some places do actually sell a larger backing plate to fit these pads a bit tigther that the standard 75ml plates.
Theres also lots of other exceptions to the rule and a general lack of standards around fitment of plates to pads.. so yer its a little bit of a lottery when you start.
@@ForensicDetailing wow thank you for the fast response and detailed explanation which is really helpful. I'll look out for a 75mm 5/16th UNF plate and some 80mm hex pads which should be perfect for small tight curvy panels . What threw me was the way the industry sizes plates by the fixing diameter not the hook and loop surface diameter on the pyramidal plates which of course have 2x diameters . Thanks once again
Hi excellent video I am trying to remove very minor swirls from a black motorcycle. There are some small chips that I want to touch in and compound back. Any videos on this would be appreciated.
you will need wet sanding skills really.. its not hard but its hard to explain Im no expert in this stuff theres good videos on you tube about it.. ill do one sooner or later mate
I've never used more than turtle wax aste by hand. I'm buying 2 buffer. How to I take off brn paint off my silver car?
Hi John.
Another great video.
I'm really enjoying learning about the art of car detailing.
I have a question, the Tetrosyl Pre-Wipe Degreaser that you use, is it a concentrate or do you use it neat, straight from the can?
Hi Carl, its not water based so you just use it as it. I would perhaps not recomend this for outside of a workshop environment. But its been a good degreaser for me. Its an option for sure I payed 11 quid for 5 litres. Just in winter leave it longer to make sure all materials have left the panel. below 10 degress it will take a long time to vaporise.
@@ForensicDetailing thank you for your reply, much appreciated. 👍🏻
Dear Sirs,
I stumbled upon your page by accident; and I’m also not some one within ‘the trade’ to be truthful but I wondered if you could or would be able to advise me.
I tune pianos for a living and I’ve seen more than my fair share of scratches; from hairline to guages, in modern-ish 1960’s < through to today’s modern piano, but the finish/polish used in the production process I’ve picked up from listening to dealers is polyester, it’s meant to be a ‘hard’ finish but it is easily marked.
The dealers use 3M cream I can’t find out what ‘model’ it is, but I have been approached a few times by clients wondering if I could remove the scratch. Is the machine you use and the fine/very, VERY fine compounds capable of doing a minor-ish removal of a scratch in this finish?
I appreciate its not what maybe do, but a little help whether it’s to say ‘no’ or ‘yes’.
Yours truly,
ross
it can be done. Guitar clear can be a lot more similiar to car paintwork. Ive polished a few guitars. Piano clear I think is different. but again is can still be done. 3m polishes that are most used are called fast cut (their agressive compound) and finnesse it or ultra finesse they ultra fine polishing compound.
when in doubt start with the least agressive. I would actually suggest you use the Koch range of abrasives. Their is a range called H9 (agressive) F6 medium, and M3 fine polishing. you can buy them in 250 ml bottles for like 13 pounds. I would buy the M3 first. And I would use thie polish on a Free Spinning dual action polisher just like I show in this video. I would start with the White chemical guys hex logic pad and M3. If that does not work I would step up for green hex pad with F6, and finally yellow pad with F8. Have a good strong light source when you polish, and test on an inconspicous area first. Be mindfull of chips in the piano paint system and any flaking paint.
@Forensic Detailing Channel, Hey John, I've recently bought a D6PP V2 (1000w), I'm now looking at buying the compounds and pads. Now the only thing I'm still not 100% on is, I have the 5" & 6" backing plate but what size pads should I be purchasing , I'm I right in thinking the pads should be bigger by half an inch, so 5.5 & 6.5 ? Being the 15mm throw I'll definitely be taking your advice by using the Quantom range.
Great content John and very informative , Thanks .
ok so 5inch/125ml plates by either pads marked as 5inch pads (because they are describing the fitment size) or pads with the 140ml size like with flex. a few extra milimeters of velco will not hurt. just dont buy too small. so typically mate buy hex logic pads or the Flex purples and oranges I recomend and you will be 100% fine.
John love the vid and your advice, it’s great that you put links for products, but when you have an enhanced shopping list, I am flicking back and forth to your vid to sites to get what I need, whilst I appreciate you usually give a top 3 on products, can you incorporate a list on this channel, so muppets like me can print or save so we can tick off what I need and put an order in for the lot.
Thanks
Steve
You mean like create a master list of products and links Steve? Host it somewhere on a website or something?
Forensic Detailing Channel no I haven’t found a way to print from you tube, but in your vid on prep before polishing you go through a load of products, which you provide links for. Thanks for the time you take doing that, but can you suggest a way to get a list of products in one place so I can compile a list to place an order for everything in one go to save flicking back and forth to the vid or writing it down while I watch it.
I understand in this game new products come on the market all the time,
When you do your sealant review try and get hold of some QP ON 2.0 from nano shine uk, or take a look at apex detail on UA-cam, he uses it quite a lot.
The stuff is gold! Bought some per Brian from Apex. He is spot on. A sealant on steroids!💪
Hi yes I’m using it and I am very impressed with the results it’s is stupid hydrofobic and is very long lasting and so simple to use !
Hi Jason, can I ask where you purchased it from
Thanks
Rob
I got it from Nano-Shine on line
I am on their site now, but my info bar is saying not secure(if you know what I mean)I take it you had no problems ordering with them.
Thanks
Rob
Dear sir, i love your videos as you know, please can you suggest any pre-paint correctios soap, that can prpeare the surface for correction, and it can remove some old waxes sealants and triffic film?
kind regards from Athens
Greece
I really cant marios, Ive only used a couple. One that I know works I dont think you can buy yet from one of my patreons. I would just like try and any strip wash detergent, like adams or chemical guys etc maybe..
@@ForensicDetailing we dont have adams or CG many products in my country,
ok.............thanks you sir, keep up the great work helping us..............i always rewatch your older videos tiowithdraw more information and tips.......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
happy.........Valentines.......!!!ololololololool
i usually use megs wash plus to prewash before correction but very expencieve to my country
Should I wash the pads after use, or should I put them in a bag, and reuse them ??
Wash them after use dry them out
@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the reply, I'm new to this lark, just did my car for the first time yesterday, the pads are flat that I have, What's the difference in the ones you use that have the fifty pea shape on the bottom, what's the reason for those ??
Hi John, absolutely love your videos as someone trying to start into detailing his own car. Got the deep clean process fairly well down thanks to you. In regards to compounding - would i be ok to compound the full car then polish, or should i only compound on panels that actually need it/have scratches or defects
ah mate this could be a long one.. ideally when removing swirls you cut the whole car and your finish it out. Its rare to have a patch of swirls on one panel for example and the rest on needs light polish. sometimes if you have a smart repair or you wet sand a defect out you might cut this bit for example.
but essentially your asking me to give you a course of direction for a car I cant inspect so Im advising you blind which is dangerous. but I personally would cut and finish the entire car. your clear levels will stay consistent as well then.
@@ForensicDetailing I appreciate this response a lot thanks very much. It was more a question of: is compounding the whole car before polishing it a big no no. Most youtube videos i look at talk about it but only ever seem to show the actual polish stage and only ever talk about 1 square on a panel.
Yea i understand where you're coming from - car wasn't well kept by first owner and i've had heavy use of it for almost 2 years with only learning how to do a proper maintenance/clean wash in that time, so this will be the first time since 2017 it's had something like a cut/polish so i think i will go for the full car cut/polish
Thanks again
Great video, lots of useful information especially for someone like me 😀, just one question because i'm slightly confused , for one step correction with Koch or shool with type pad should I used? Middle cutting pad or polishing pad?
depends on the paint really the level of dfects and and hardness of paint. But Koch F6 or Scholl S20 with green hex pad or flex purple pad will be good option for most medium to hard clearcoats.
@@ForensicDetailing thank you very much John, really appreciate 👍
Does the compound and polish get erased when it got wet from the rain? or do I have to re-apply it often? this is the first time that i got a car, and i wanted to bring it back to its shine since it is already a used car.
Polish residue is mainly like oil and glycerine. It will wash off with hot water and detergent and panel wipes. Wax or sealants firm a more durable film that resists washing more.
What would you recommend as a budget polished for beginners? Would like to have a polisher in my detailing kit but not willing to pay top dollar
DA8 from in2detailing mike. cheap 8mm DA that you can put a 3 inch plate on as well as the standard 5inch plate.
Nice videos keep up the good work. I was wondering if there is anybody out there that could help me please. Ive got an old Clio Sport 182 in the black gold paint and its looking a bit shite so I decided to buy some gear and have a go at doing it myself. I had a go today with hex pads and Maguires ultimate compound. I tried various pads and a few passes and it looks to of hardly touched it at all no better at all really. What could I be doing wrong? it is still absolutely full of swirls marks even after two passes and two passes with polish, I have been using a DA could it be the compound just isnt coarse enough. Any help greatly appreciated, cheers
Im using the Hex logic with a rotary and koch chemie set how would i go about it
Thanks so much for sharing your experience, it's so interesting. Is it possible to get these products from my region
no sure what your region is buddy but just ask around check your online detailin reseller in your country. some of the UK guys ship globally for big orders as well.
Hi John, I have been told to finish on a lower speed than the compounding stage. Now I hear you saying to keep the same speed for compounding and finishing. Does this mean that the advice I have been given is incorrect?
not really Nick, there is no correct answer really. It could depend on what your doing with that polishing set and what the product your using is providing. say your doing multiple passes of polishing first one you want to work a bit harder and faster second one back off a bit , lift a bit more etc.. there could be a reason to drop the speed down depending on what your doing. but generally its not going to make too much difference. 4-5 of most DA's is a good sweet spot when compounding (generalisation though). compound on top whack and you can over work the compound and overheat pads and dust up some compounds.. slow down to 4-5 with that same product and it will behave generally. with finishing polishes your generating less heat, less friction, you can generally crank them a bit harder but really its down to individual. most important thing with the DA will be to work a bit slower with your arm speed imo. by all means though drop down to 3-4 if you want to when glossing up the paintwork with a finishing polish.
As always very instructive videos. John, little question, since a have a new car (mercedes a klasse), i was wondering what pad i should use in combination with Sonax EX 04/06 (love this polish). I already have CG Hex Logic orange, or should i go for the green hex logic as a one step, since the paint is good condition ?
you could single stage with that orange no problems. The orange is a nice closed cell pad, its not overly course. no need to buy the greens for hard merc paint.
Thanks for the video. Is it 4 to 6 horizontal plus 4-6 vertical passes, or just 2-3 horizontal+vertical?
2-3 h+v typically yes depending on speed. keep and eye on the polish/compound when it thins ot or dries stop say 3-4 mins of polishing max as a rough guide some will say less some more. machine speed between 4 and 5.
Hi, Thanks for your very informative demo's. I'm getting more into detailing now and have a Meguiars MT320 DA polisher but still need to compound and polish the hard to get to or narrow bits by hand. What would be the most ideal/useful piece of equipment to get next if had to make a choice between a paint thickness gauge or a nano polisher for the hard to get to bits? I intend to detail several cars for family and friends. Thanks very much.
Nano polisher m8
@@ForensicDetailing Blimey, that is a very quick response. Thank you very much.
Hi John, have you tried the NEW water based Tet panel perfection degreaser?
Do you have to dry your car before doing the chemical Decon step? Bc I think I’ll use the clay mitt but I don’t wanna dry it then chem decon then wet it again for the mechanical decon, unless that’s necessary
you can use fallout remover on a wet car but not tar and glue because its mineral spirit based on water based. so some will FR after the wash while its wet. you need to rinse FR off.
Do you recommend a brand of clay cloth and, are they useable/safe for a complete novice to use?
Farecla one is good. Only use if you are gonna machine polish see review of it
@@ForensicDetailing Sadly no, as I’m totally new to detailing and only have minimal kit at the moment. I’ve recently bought a 2014 320D XDrive in red and just want to get rid of some of the minor scratches.
Jon, for the DIY Sun Gun, did you ever add a fan to it? I don't have a fan on mine, and it just goes through the battery charge quickly.
yo BB no fan mate. not noticed any power problems with it, I think the lttle LED inspection torches though are just better.
at times, even the light from my smart phone. Thanks Jon
21:43 So this is the route that I think I'm going with, the sonax perfect finish as you mentioned it cuts and polishes. What pad should I use? Thanks in advance for your response.
works well on rupes yellow
Hi Jon I have a BMW 135i. The paint is very good just has very light swirls. Could you recommend me a Polish and pad combination please?
Scholl S20 with the green hex should work well, have a watch of the how to polish a car with a DA for begineers video. its a decent starting point GRaham
Thanks Jon appreciate your time mate
Hi Jon, thanks for this contribution, few questions for you having polished a car for the first time with S20 Black:
1) My bottle seems to be full of the polish oil. It's as if the oil is seperating from the compound. I tried shaking it heavily for a longer period of time, but the product seems to stay seperated in the bottle. Any idea what may be iffy here?
2) I noticed that after a few panels, and having brushed the pad after every pass, the compound starts to dust. Is this a perfect example of a sign to switch to a fresh pad?
3) The S20 Black usually is easy to remove for everyone, but for me my microfiber cloth just sticks to it and it feels incredibly grippy. It's easier to remove if I give it a squirt with water, though. Might I be using too much product?
Cheers!
yo bram. Ive never like noticed seperation with s20 but I cant see inside the bottle if you know what I mean, its not like a clear bottle. I just shake the crap out of it for like 30 seconds before first set and then like quick shake every 30 mins or so after that. These polishes can often seperate maybe like youve seen a pool of oil thats gone to the top or something.. If so Ive never had that with this product, its always been like perfect compisition of great when I squirt it out.. Its possible you have a bad batch, but highly unlikely. just shake the living crap out of it before you use it.
s20 is awesome for low dusting.. Its like the least dusting product Ive ever used I think bar nothing really. s3 is just as good though really. However it is physically possible to make any abrasive polish dust. If you have a clean brand new pad and you work S20 and it dusts on that first set then something is going seriously wrong with what you are doing, Im thinking like with the DA on top whack speed and a really long like 5 minute set or somethign maybe its possible. If you watch my first "how to polish a car with a DA for begineers" video I polish in real time with S20 for a long time on speed 4-5 with a DA. so you can see it in action being worked. I also use a ton of abrasive and cover a quarter of the panel in one set as well.
You can get nice long 2-3 minute sets with this on a DA with no dusting. dusting normally occurs as you continue to polish set after set and spent polish deep in the pad that cannot all be removed by brushing. this spent polish continues to dry and dry from the heat generate when polish and sooner or later it starts coming out the pad. I typically say 4 pads a car so you can cycle them. What also could be happening is the pad you are using is not new and you go to use it again and all the polish that was in there from the last time you used it has slowly dried to a crust inside the pad.. and it all comes out. The trick to solving this is after you swap pads say 1/4 of the way round the car that pad must go into soak so the polish does not dry in the pad. then really flush the hell out of the pad with a garden hose on good pressure and flatten it out to flush the water and repeat and repeat untill the water coming out is clear and not white or grey.
3) this problem sounds like bedding down (or thats what I call it). so you are seeing patches of polish that is a bugger to remove like they dont want to come off. Ive seen this happen on a variety of products. I noticed it on the normal rapid renovator the other day for example when I used with a soft pad. This problem tends to happen with softer finer pads and also when you use too much abrasive in combination with those pads. way way way less abrasive and a pad like the green hex and it should not happen. again you can see me buffing it off in the first polishing guide. I can get virtually all abrasives to bed down when I use soft fine pored "finish" type pads. should not be happening on the green hex's though mate. (if you tell me you were using greens Im gonna have to go back to the drawing board :) or Id start thinking you have a bad batch more perhaps). Im also gonna say one other thing about bedding down. Some say as well, if you blobb out dots on the pads the bedding down actually comes from the excess polish specifically on the blobbs on the pad. not sure if this is true but experiment with also priming the pad with you finger and then just plonking it down and spinning it up on the panel for a couple of seconds and then lay it out. rather than patting it and then laying it (Im not sure how true this is though). I dont often get bidding down but when I do I tend to just buzz it off with a quick pass.
Cheers for the swift response Jon!
1) It's indeed like the oil is sitting on top of the product. The first time after I shook it and I toppled it over, the oil just came out as if it were a bottle of water.
2) I used 2 pads for the entire car. I brushed them out after every pass, which is why I'm leaning towards having to use more pads. So I'm guessing I try to do too many panels with a single pad. It didn't dust with a fresh pad, but the longer I used it the more apparent the problem became.
3) Since it was my first time working with a DA, I tried three different pads with S20 to see what happened with each pass. I tried a black Meguiar's finishing disc, which did pretty much nothing unless I spent a very long time on the pass. I tried a Meguiar's microfiber finishing pad, and a white Chemical Guys quad pad. I opted for the white pad because I wanted to be able to really work the panel without taking off more clearcoat than necessary. Or at least, that's what I had in mind. The hardest pass to buff out was the pass made with the microfiber finishing pad. With all pads, I had the impression I had to apply pressure to the MF cloth to buff the product out, otherwise the cloth would simply stick to the panel. I'm guessing the point is that the product buffs off with minimal pressure. Which is why I'm confused what I'm doing wrong.
Results were there, though. Guess I need to get me some different other types of pads, and see how each foam reacts. May as well just stick with your advice, and opt for a green or orange cutting pad. For some reason I'm just slightly worried with working these cutting pads too hard and taking off more clearcoat than I need to, if that makes any sense?
Cheers!
the difference in what you will achieve between a white green and orange pad is pretty minimal. the abrasive is the thing doing the cutting really. A stiffer pad with larger pores can work more agressive compounds harder.. but you have nothing to worry about with the chemical guys green and orange as they are not especially agressive pads. But if your 2 staging you would be use the white pad typically with a fine polish and the green to yellow with the compound.
I think you might have a duff bottle I have no idea. the only reason is I dont recal seeing what you are seeing. also if it tipped over and some of the liquid at the top fell out it could effect the ratios of the polish enough to maybe have an effect (possible but should still work).
Hey just an idea as well. you could try sonax perfect finish instead of S20 next time. I think if you have a bad experience of a product they trying another one is typically what I do in life.
Hi John, just wondering if you know of any attachments for the Das6 pro to allow you to use micro 2 inch pads to get into those small to reach panels/areas? To save buying another micro DA polisher. 👍🏻
no they wont support 2 inch pads andy. the plates would be too small and off balance with the counterweight.
75ml is smallest plate supported.
Is dusting from the shcoll s20 to be expected ?
not really ive heard others say it dusts.. but I cant make this stuff dust. normally dusting happens from build up of old product in the pad set after set. make sure dust isnt old residue left in the pad.
If you can make it dust rapidly on the first few sets your generating too much heat. slow everything down. This is oily product that should not be dusting up.
Hey John, hope you're staying safe and well. I watched your review on the Das6 Pro Plus and i bought that exact machine along with scholls S20. This was my 1st time polishing and i thought i was doing well until i inspected the results after. There were still plenty of swirls and i know all paint is different but i think that something wasn't right. I used the orange Hex-logic Quantum pad along with it but never primed it at all. Only putting 4-5 dots of polish on there and cracked on. The polish was really hard to remove off the panel which i thought was odd. Why is this? Should i of primed the face of the pad 1st with product then 2-3 dots after? I think that the pad was way too dry. Thanks!
Hey there first up shake the crap out of the polish. I think what you are saying is you are getting little patches of polish sticking to the panel and they are a bugger to remove. I call this bedding down. This can happen when the polish is sticking to the panel more than the pad. Believe it or not it typically happens when you use finer softer poored pads with agressive compounds and you get a fast build up of residue on the pad. You actually want to do 2 things. A stiffer pad, you will notice the orange hex pad is soft still, so is the yellow. And less compound, and a much shorter working time. Work clean at the start of each set and much shorter working time.
what paintwork is it?
Could you use autosmart red 7 neutral wheel cleaner as the chemical decontamination (iron remover)?
yes although you risk perhaps more detergent in a wheel cleaner/fallout remover combo, drying on the paintwork. the main thing with a fallout remover you got to let it react. and you dont want them to dry out. so I would test it first and see what happens if it dries and how hard to residue left behind is to remove if it dries on.
I've used a spray of wd40 on some tissue paper to clean tar spots off before washing the car fully, I haven't noticed any ill effects but am I doing harm to my car?
It is fully washed and cleaned afterwards so I'm not leaving any residue on the panels.
not doing any harm. but WD40 have solvent in it to thin the like ptfe lubricant or whatever the lubricant is I cant remember. So like you spray it onto tar and the solvent can break down the tar. problem is you are also covering the panel is that crappy lubricant. WD40 gets used for lots of things. but I basically only tend to use it to help loosen seized nutz. I would just have a tar and glue remover in your detailing arsensal it will work out cheaper as well.
@@ForensicDetailing
Thanks I really appreciate your input and advice👍
can you do a wash shoutout 2019 in a speedo?
vot,tviz.z
Polished my car car once in my lifetime, then cried as a quarry tipper lorry in front of me, sprayed his washers , and all the the lovely dirt and quarry dust ended up all over my paintwork...Thus never again...
Don't the Bilt Hamber Clays only need water not clay lube?
personal preference on lube choice really buddy. Id use ONR
Would autoglym super resin polish work?
yes but perhaps treat it more like a finishing product than a correction tool
Would you be able to use M205 as a one step?
Only if it has light defects or very soft paint. 205 is a finishing polish but has a fairly decent level of cut if used with with a more aggressive pad than a finishing pad. You'll need a compound if you're dealing with a fair amount of swirls though. Better off with something like S20 Black for a one step if you want a good level of correction though as said in the video.
How do you clean your polish pads?
see "how to clean polishing pads" video on the channel
all over the place
Hello Jon :)
Always watching your videos when I am riding a bike at the gym 😂
Would you say air compressor is necessary for cleaning residues off the polishing pads?
p.s just got coat thickness checker after watching your video 😂
not 100% necessary no Ian, but would be great to have. for foam pads a soft brush will do fine. microfiber the polish really gets stuck in the fibers and you cant brush it out, it clings onto the microfiber better than the brush, so air can help there for sure.
Whats your opinion on fusso wax?
hey andrew done a full review of it on the channel just search fusso wax on you tube it will come up mate.
Be nice if you could look into the camera so it looks like you are talking to your viewers rather than looking past the camera
have you tried s20 with hex green pad on audi paint
yes
@@ForensicDetailing whats it like good enought for the hardness
Every time you clap your hands, I’m expecting you to jump on an apple box and start the gab. Not one clay bar, not two or three clay bars, not four clay bars? Oh no, I’m offering you five. Yeh that’s right….Five best quality clay bars for price of one. Now get your tenners ready and form an orderly, no pushing and Dell boy will sort you out.👍