No, and you make a good point. I can't criticize Valvoline if this doesn't work because I still won't know the cause of the piston slap since I WILL NOT break the engine down. I'm just hopeful it will work.
Had a '97 4.6 truck that I bought 2 years old with 164,000 miles. I used a qt every 800 miles on 5W30 but switching it to Castrol Edge 5W40 got it to about 1qt every 1100 miles. I believe most of the oil consumption was the valve guides/seals. On a long decel or idle, it would give a quick puff of smoke out the tailpipe when the throttle was blipped. It also had cold start slap that went away at some point. I always assumed the skirt broke off, but who knows. Sold it with 330,000 mostly trouble free miles. Since it was pretty weak, it spent lots of hours a WOT especially with a car trailer behind it. It was a great truck. I don't think it'll help your oil consumption, but are you familiar with Berryman's B-12 ring flushes? Me and a bunch of Toyota, VW, Audi guys have seen huge improvements on oil consumption after doing it. All low tension piston ring cars with small piston oil drain holes. I did a '17 Audi 2.0 that went from 1 qt every 250 miles to well over 1000 miles a quart. Looking forward to your updates on the Valvoline.
I’ve just let the truck warm up a minute before taking off, the noise goes away…. During the winter (November - March) I also plug in the engine block heater when I park for the night. I was going to try some stuff recommended by Scotty Kilmer, but haven’t yet.
These 5.4s are notorious for piston slap, a design flaw, I understand Powertrain Products uses different pistons to eliminate this problem. I'm pretty impressed my oil consumption has reduced, although I started using Valvoline to see if I can rid myself of the piston slap. Have you seen my update?
My 4.6L 2v is making quite a racket when starting after sitting for a while. Im pretty sure it needs a new timing chain and guide. Its at 202k miles and nothing has been changed. Only have changed external parts, exhaust manifolds, oil filter housing, intake, thermostast, and stuff like that. It needs a timing chain and guides and the oil pan gasket is leaking, but unfortunately it looks like to replace the oil pan gasket on these, you have to either unbolt and lift up the engine, or pull th3 transmission, due to the cross member going right under the oil pan, you can drop it enough to clear the oil pick up tube and screen.
Did you see the timing chain playlist I created? The first video has a clip showing the noise the timing chain makes before I replaced it: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZPg0KvNIqkGpzx-duBOL246.html&si=pQLMNgaHSbQzBgWQ
@@DrivingIntelligence Honestly I'm not 100% sure if mine is piston slap or timing chain for sure, or both, but mine is definitely starting to sound like yours did before the timing chain and guide swap. It started to get worse once she got over 200k miles.
@@Zalagar619 timing chain is a big & important project. And make sure you install a new oil pump as linked in the description of my timing chain video series. That will also help.
Get in your car put your foot on the gas peddle all the way to the floor put key in ignition and turn the motor over for 2 to 3 seconds the engine will not start but will pump oil out of the pan . Turn key to off position take foot off pedal and start normally. Worked for me.
So strange hearing this as my truck has 213k and it's super quiet. No leaks or burning oil, nothing.... Maybe I've just been lucky? I've done the exhaust manifolds and gaskets as expected, but nothing else. Just been running Valvoline Max Life full synthetic every 3k and changing all fluids like I should.
Good story... I have the same experience with my 2002 Harley Davidson F150 (original owner & regularly maintained). I'm not the original owner of the XLT 4x4, so don't know how this truck was cared for by previous owner. I know he never changed the tranny fluid through 165k miles.
I think the skirts are collapsed on a few or even just one piston. Meaning the diameter of the piston at the skirt is worn, scored so its undersize just enough that it rattles cold but expands enough to go away when it heats up. Unless its hard on oil consumption the rings are likely not too bad. Thats the usually the sinario. I have one as well that cold rattles, but its got over a quarter million miles on it and had very high miles when i got it. Just be easy on it till it warms up. The two valve Tritons are otherwise pretty decent engines. Oh just be sure you torque the spark plugs to the new higher torque spec! Lol
The original spark plug torque specification was too low. Allowing the spark plugs to loosen up from heating and cooling cycles over time and rattling around till they blow the plug & threads out.
Thanks for checking in, I’ve always used a higher torque spec and I’ve never had a plug blowout on one of my 10th GEN F150s. Also, with this truck having over 250,000 miles on the clock, I’m very easy on it until it gets up to operating temperatures.
Wonder how long it would take to clean out those ringlands using the new "Valvoline Restore & Protect" chemistry attack? Anyway, a proven way is to use "Valvoline Premium Blue Restore Gen2 10w-30" (VPBR) that has been used by truckers to clean the ringlands for the last 6 years now. (It has to say "Restore" in the name, or else you're getting their regular motor oil, if you seek this at Cummins dealerships make sure they understand.) .. It works. ... They use incredible base oils (all PAO, POE, & AN) in that, looks like a race oil, as part of their secret sauce ingredients, as the patents and MSDS sheets show. .....Their new "Restore & Protect" is a different animal targeted at gasoline engines here, yet they might be using some chemistry tech from VPBR, who knows. ..... VPBR is only available through Cummins dealers (last I heard), and does cost something like $70 per gallon (4 quarts), so not super-cheap for people on a tight budget. But it really aggressively cleans out ringlands of carbon gunk, so worth it to anybody who doesn't want to tear down an engine (expensive).
As a 3rd generation mechanic, it will depend on the cause of the Piston slap. A loose piston pin or wrist pin or an incorrect piston/rod clearance will not be fixed by oil. Sounds like the skirt may be slightly undersize compared to the bore. That would explain as it warms up it goes away. The piston expands faster than the bore. Thicker oil in that case would minimize the sound at start up. If using 5w-30 try 10w-30.
I think all modern synthetic oils will do the job, however, this one makes big claims. I hope the claims come true with my truck. Hope you saw my follow-up videos.
What I’ve seen from their data is that their oil formulation will eliminate “all” deposits on the Pistons and I’m hoping that includes anything that is keeping the rings from moving freely.
Valvoline Restore & Protect cut oil consumption on my Toyota 2AZ-FE in half after 1000 miles, so it seems to be working. I’m skeptical about it fixing piston slap.
@@DrivingIntelligence On most newer cars you can hold the gas pedal all the way down while starting and it'll just sit there and crank. Most people use it to get some oil through the system before driving or to pre-fill a filter on a fresh oil change
Amsoil is the actually best oil for wear protection and viscosity breakdown prevention, there’s tests on UA-cam testing it compared to a lot of different oils. Royal Purple and Pennzoil Platnum are the next best oils I’m my research I’m using Pennzoil Platnum Highmileage synthetic 5W 20 in my ford focus.
@@cashwilson2571 I generally agree, however, I wanted to test another option to see if this makes some improvement. My latest video demonstrates a reduction in oil consumption since I started using Valvoline. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/jbYx8oHjITo/v-deo.htmlsi=3FS4zviQFI2XTqad
I miss my 99 f150 5.4. It had a weeping oil leak btwn the head & block, passenger side rear. Leaked about 1 qt every 4,000 miles. Ran great, otherwise. Solid truck.
@@DrivingIntelligence I'm getting ready to work on my dad's f-250 ld that has 230k on it and the pcv has never been changed. It's burned about 1 quart every 1k for about 200k now. Ford called it within spec back in the day.
@@loveracing1988 I have heard these trucks have somewhat loose piston rings... which causes a little blow-by. So far, I'm not sure about this oil. I feel like I was getting better performance out of the Pennzoil, but time will tell.
My 2000 Z71 Silverado 5.3 that currently has 190000 miles on it also has the piston slap which I've owned since New depending on when it's cold after it heats up it also goes away .The truck runs like a champ always have ran Synthetic mostly Mobile One but I switch it up time to time
I've heard this issue also hits GM Vehicles. I had a '98 Lumina that had horrible piston slap at start-up and once warm, ran as good as any engine I ever drove. I'm hoping this oil will reduce the slap a little if I have any issues with the ring-lands.
I watched another video on this and, apparently you have to watch it as it can work too good and potentially clog an oil filter in 500 miles, I would use some gunk motor flush first, then switch to Restore and protect if needed.
I've had no problem, when I changed my timing chains, the top of the engine was spotless. Not a bit of carbon or sludge build-up. For those that have not taken care of their engines, that's another story!
I'm guessing or at least hoping that you've already installed an oil catch can in order to help with capturing some of that blow by so that shit doesn't go back into your intake manifold. If you're burning one and a half quarts of oil change or whatever you said, that's definitely excessive oil consumption and you likely have some oil carbon buildup inside your oil ring. There's actually two different types of carbon buildup within a gasoline engine that Valvoline has done a lot of research and development because they're actually believe it or not they are the only engine oil distributor that has their own engine testing facility. This was a shock to me because I thought every oil distributor or oil manufacturer if you will all have a testing facility in order to better create a proper mixture of oil additives etc. Valvoline had already made an engine engine oil for diesel that does the same thing. There's carbon buildup from gasoline combustion and then you've also got your blow by gases that will pick up small particles of engine oil and recirculate them back through your intake manifold to be burned rather than vented to the atmosphere. There's also a thin layer of oil leftover piston moves downward. It was for many years that the carbon buildup was all from the fuel.. the fuel companies have addressed that situation and corrected it as long as you're running a TIER 1 gasoline there shouldn't be any issues with carbon buildup other than the engine oil. So if you install a quality catch properly on the dirty side of your engine, which is usually bank 2. In doing so the catch can should innate almost 100% of blow by contaminants from your crank case. Your engine engine oil will also last longer by not having to worry about oil delusion for any of the blow by that may contain fuel. Good rule of thumb is if you're having to use an engine oil additive then you may have to check to see if if you're using the proper engine engine oil because seafoam is absolute garbage for your engine followed by RISLONE. The fact of the matter is if you're not 100% sure of the additive package in your existing engine oil and then you go and add an engine oil additive then it is possible to worsen or create a problem that may or may not have existed. Because of the service bulletin you mentioned about Ford putting out I don't think that that was the case that you made things worse. However, I Strongly suggest installing a catch can as well as the restore and protect engine oil. Do not use an engine engine oil flush! For added protection, I would recommend a PUROLATOR BOSS OIL FILTER. It has by far the best Features of all the oil filters I've researched and used. It's a little bit more expensive but you're likely going to be taking small amounts of carbon out of your so you wanna make sure you're using a high-quality oil filter as well as keeping an eye on the oil pressure. If it goes up too much then you know you've got a restriction created by carbon particles removed from your oil piston rings. This will be a good indicator that the engine oil is working because it will become darker a lot quicker than normal. as far as the piston skirt slap is concerned that's just the nature of the beast. Unfortunately Ford used some customers as a guinea pig with their shorter piston skirt, design in order to try and increase fuel economy by reducing drag within the engine by reducing the weight of the piston in hopes of decreasing the friction. I believe once the oil is cleared up, you should notice a significant decrease in piston skirt slap because there should be a fine film taking up the space like you mentioned, as well as the expansion of the components within the engine. Never deviate from the recommended oil viscosity of your engine unless it has 200,000 miles or more on it then it might be possible to go up a bit thicker oil.. hope this helps a bit. Take care and good luck.
Hi, thanks for this comprehensive comment! I have catch cans on 3 of my 4 vehicles (haven't put together a catch can kit for my 2006 Cadillac CTS V, but one day). I have a full playlist on the benefits and installation of catch cans. Check it out: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZOjdPMkX8TdpSbEOhFb4qDe.html&si=z_AoMmMNMFkIWgHv I've been using quality oils for many years, so I don't have massive amounts of sludge and other particulates that would otherwise clog the oil filter. I'm trying to fine tune my engine's cleanliness by trying this oil to reduce carbon build-up on the pistons and rings, per Valvoline's claims. Since my test truck is out of commission while I rebuild the transmission, more updates are some time off, but forthcoming. Stay tuned and keep commenting!
Collapsed piston skirt causes piston slap-sound because of the skirt's failure to expand to its proper diameter so as just to glide along the cylinder wall. It is difficult to imagine how an oil can restore a collapsed skirt damaged by overheating for instance. A slightly collapsed skirt can be cushioned by a thick oil but an overly collapsed skirt can not be prevented from oscillating about the piston pin regardless of the thickness of the oil. So, how can an oil restore a "collapsed skirt"? I always imagine the piston skirt to be "cam-ground & barrel-shaped" but eventually assumed the roundness of cylinder liner (upon reaching operating temperature) with nothing between them but oil. My usual solution to piston slap is piston replacement assuming the cylinder liner is still healthy.
@@RemigioCarabioVillanueva there is evidence to show that encrusted rings will allow sloppiness of the piston, and therefore piston slap. That is my only hope, that freeing up the rings in the lands will allow them to stabilize the piston. I know it’s a shot in the dark, but that’s what I’m trying to accomplish. You’re talking about other mechanical issues that I am not trying to fix with this oil. My follow up video shows that my oil consumption has dropped dramatically, which is likely due to freeing up the rings and limiting blow by.
The 5.4l 3v timing chain and cam phasers are tensioned by oil pressure it uses oil pressure to tension up and once up to op temp it'll smooth out it's normal.
Hi my friend, you should check out all my other videos. Tons of videos that already cover your points. I have a playlist dedicated to replacement of the 5.4 timing chains and oil pump. Appreciate your comments! And by the way, not just the 5.4 3v, also the 5.4 2v and 4.6.
Piston slap I don’t know if it’s the same as wrist pin slap but I know for a fact wrist pin slap. You don’t hear it when you start the vehicle it’s/after the oil warms up.
not a measured result yet. I need to go through about 4 oil changes per Valvoline for the pistons to be fully cleaned. I can tell you I have no change in piston slap at this time. Thanks for checking in.
Curious about it myself if it works and doesn't cause engine problems where you need a new engine because it'll flake away and cause problems. Or it's just snake oil, but I think the issue you have exhaust leak tho
You can live with 1 qt every 1,500. Try Mobil 1 10w30 and forget those additives and cleaners. A bottle of Lucas injector cleaner is ok. Try to find Mobil 1 Red top 15w50.
thanks for the comment, I'm committed to seeing how much improvement I can achieve with this oil. Check out this video, I've already seen improvement: ua-cam.com/video/jbYx8oHjITo/v-deo.html
My go to oil is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Plus synthetic. After seeing lots of reviews, it's the best (other than Redline), but I'm trying this Valvoline to see if I can be pleasantly surprised.
No..Piston slap is a clearance problem between the piston/rings/cylinder wall...Of course between cold and operating temp..Piston slap noise varies..No Remedy in a bottle..Rebuild with proper machining....
Plenty of studies showing crusted rings contributing to piston slap. And thanks for repeating what I said in my video, can be caused by engine design. Plagiarism is the best complement. ;)
@@DrivingIntelligence I think that clear flooding for about five seconds before you start the truck for the first time each day would be your best bet.
lol... thanks for that enlightening comment... certainly no other vehicle was built with piston slap. Such an amazing contribution to my Driving Intelligence Community!
I've been using the Valvoline for over 3k miles with no issue, except I dropped my tranny! No 3rd or 4th. Oil consumption is down, but the longer term test of the oil is on pause at the moment.
Thanks for taking the time to do the video. And edit it. No easy job I know. Disregard all the negative feed back.. people will jump all over someone that makes an error. Forget about it. Looking forward to you next video. I got 5.7 hemi 2016 with piston slap gona try 5w30 instead 5w 20 full synthetic and go from there . Cheers Chubby butcher.
hmmm, not so sure this will work. Will you tear your engine apart at the end of the test to inspect the rings?
No, and you make a good point. I can't criticize Valvoline if this doesn't work because I still won't know the cause of the piston slap since I WILL NOT break the engine down. I'm just hopeful it will work.
A compression test before n after would be interesting
You should check out the Motor Oil Geeks(Lake Speed Jr.) video he just did with Valvoline about this oil. It's very informative and interesting.
I think your the 10th person suggesting I check out his video. ;) His video is theoretical. My video is real world.
Had a '97 4.6 truck that I bought 2 years old with 164,000 miles. I used a qt every 800 miles on 5W30 but switching it to Castrol Edge 5W40 got it to about 1qt every 1100 miles. I believe most of the oil consumption was the valve guides/seals. On a long decel or idle, it would give a quick puff of smoke out the tailpipe when the throttle was blipped. It also had cold start slap that went away at some point. I always assumed the skirt broke off, but who knows. Sold it with 330,000 mostly trouble free miles. Since it was pretty weak, it spent lots of hours a WOT especially with a car trailer behind it. It was a great truck.
I don't think it'll help your oil consumption, but are you familiar with Berryman's B-12 ring flushes? Me and a bunch of Toyota, VW, Audi guys have seen huge improvements on oil consumption after doing it. All low tension piston ring cars with small piston oil drain holes. I did a '17 Audi 2.0 that went from 1 qt every 250 miles to well over 1000 miles a quart.
Looking forward to your updates on the Valvoline.
Interesting info, thanks. I’m already seeing reduced oil consumption using this oil.
I’ve just let the truck warm up a minute before taking off, the noise goes away…. During the winter (November - March) I also plug in the engine block heater when I park for the night.
I was going to try some stuff recommended by Scotty Kilmer, but haven’t yet.
These 5.4s are notorious for piston slap, a design flaw, I understand Powertrain Products uses different pistons to eliminate this problem. I'm pretty impressed my oil consumption has reduced, although I started using Valvoline to see if I can rid myself of the piston slap. Have you seen my update?
Looking forward to results
Me as well!
My 4.6L 2v is making quite a racket when starting after sitting for a while. Im pretty sure it needs a new timing chain and guide. Its at 202k miles and nothing has been changed. Only have changed external parts, exhaust manifolds, oil filter housing, intake, thermostast, and stuff like that. It needs a timing chain and guides and the oil pan gasket is leaking, but unfortunately it looks like to replace the oil pan gasket on these, you have to either unbolt and lift up the engine, or pull th3 transmission, due to the cross member going right under the oil pan, you can drop it enough to clear the oil pick up tube and screen.
Did you see the timing chain playlist I created? The first video has a clip showing the noise the timing chain makes before I replaced it: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZPg0KvNIqkGpzx-duBOL246.html&si=pQLMNgaHSbQzBgWQ
Do you have piston slap?
@@DrivingIntelligence Honestly I'm not 100% sure if mine is piston slap or timing chain for sure, or both, but mine is definitely starting to sound like yours did before the timing chain and guide swap. It started to get worse once she got over 200k miles.
@@Zalagar619 timing chain is a big & important project. And make sure you install a new oil pump as linked in the description of my timing chain video series. That will also help.
Get in your car put your foot on the gas peddle all the way to the floor put key in ignition and turn the motor over for 2 to 3 seconds the engine will not start but will pump oil out of the pan . Turn key to off position take foot off pedal and start normally. Worked for me.
Its supposed to take 4 oil changes to work fully. 😅 Archoil seems to work well in my hemi. Hope to see the results.
That's right! Great way to market and make you buy their product. ;)
It takes 4 oil changes, so it won't release too much sludge, etc.... and plug oil filters and passages.
The bores could be excessively out of round from the slap now. Looking forward to hearing about the results.
thanks for the comment. I'm hoping no scoring or damage to the bore. The truck is whisper quiet once it warms up.
So strange hearing this as my truck has 213k and it's super quiet. No leaks or burning oil, nothing.... Maybe I've just been lucky? I've done the exhaust manifolds and gaskets as expected, but nothing else. Just been running Valvoline Max Life full synthetic every 3k and changing all fluids like I should.
Good story... I have the same experience with my 2002 Harley Davidson F150 (original owner & regularly maintained). I'm not the original owner of the XLT 4x4, so don't know how this truck was cared for by previous owner. I know he never changed the tranny fluid through 165k miles.
I think the skirts are collapsed on a few or even just one piston. Meaning the diameter of the piston at the skirt is worn, scored so its undersize just enough that it rattles cold but expands enough to go away when it heats up. Unless its hard on oil consumption the rings are likely not too bad. Thats the usually the sinario. I have one as well that cold rattles, but its got over a quarter million miles on it and had very high miles when i got it. Just be easy on it till it warms up. The two valve Tritons are otherwise pretty decent engines. Oh just be sure you torque the spark plugs to the new higher torque spec! Lol
The original spark plug torque specification was too low. Allowing the spark plugs to loosen up from heating and cooling cycles over time and rattling around till they blow the plug & threads out.
Thanks for checking in, I’ve always used a higher torque spec and I’ve never had a plug blowout on one of my 10th GEN F150s. Also, with this truck having over 250,000 miles on the clock, I’m very easy on it until it gets up to operating temperatures.
Wonder how long it would take to clean out those ringlands using the new "Valvoline Restore & Protect" chemistry attack?
Anyway, a proven way is to use "Valvoline Premium Blue Restore Gen2 10w-30" (VPBR) that has been used by truckers to clean the ringlands for the last 6 years now. (It has to say "Restore" in the name, or else you're getting their regular motor oil, if you seek this at Cummins dealerships make sure they understand.) .. It works. ... They use incredible base oils (all PAO, POE, & AN) in that, looks like a race oil, as part of their secret sauce ingredients, as the patents and MSDS sheets show. .....Their new "Restore & Protect" is a different animal targeted at gasoline engines here, yet they might be using some chemistry tech from VPBR, who knows. ..... VPBR is only available through Cummins dealers (last I heard), and does cost something like $70 per gallon (4 quarts), so not super-cheap for people on a tight budget. But it really aggressively cleans out ringlands of carbon gunk, so worth it to anybody who doesn't want to tear down an engine (expensive).
appreciate this info... I'm looking for this oil. If I don't have luck with the oil I speak of in this video, I'll try the Diesel Restore product.
As a 3rd generation mechanic, it will depend on the cause of the Piston slap. A loose piston pin or wrist pin or an incorrect piston/rod clearance will not be fixed by oil. Sounds like the skirt may be slightly undersize compared to the bore. That would explain as it warms up it goes away. The piston expands faster than the bore. Thicker oil in that case would minimize the sound at start up. If using 5w-30 try 10w-30.
The spec from Ford calls for 5W20 and I've been using 5W30. I think I'll try the 10W30 as you recommend.
I just added it to my wife’s 2010 Toyota Prius with 164k Hopefully it will help it to last many more years
I think all modern synthetic oils will do the job, however, this one makes big claims. I hope the claims come true with my truck. Hope you saw my follow-up videos.
@@DrivingIntelligence there’s (themotoroilgeek) who is a scientist who has gone through it
I am really curious to see the method they use to reduce oil deposits.
What I’ve seen from their data is that their oil formulation will eliminate “all” deposits on the Pistons and I’m hoping that includes anything that is keeping the rings from moving freely.
Valvoline Restore & Protect cut oil consumption on my Toyota 2AZ-FE in half after 1000 miles, so it seems to be working. I’m skeptical about it fixing piston slap.
Great results! Thanks for sharing
That Toyota is totally a engine that carbon builds bad. Report back after you're 3rd oil change
I like to do a clear flood for about five seconds before starting my engine first thing each day.
clear flood?
@@DrivingIntelligence On most newer cars you can hold the gas pedal all the way down while starting and it'll just sit there and crank. Most people use it to get some oil through the system before driving or to pre-fill a filter on a fresh oil change
@@Generaider ah, ok, new one for me.
What about Amsoil signature series? That oil 5w-30 from Amsoil has stopped my Prius oil comsuption at 226k miles.
Interesting comment. I’ll have to check that out
Amsoil is the actually best oil for wear protection and viscosity breakdown prevention, there’s tests on UA-cam testing it compared to a lot of different oils. Royal Purple and Pennzoil Platnum are the next best oils I’m my research I’m using Pennzoil Platnum Highmileage synthetic 5W 20 in my ford focus.
@@cashwilson2571 I generally agree, however, I wanted to test another option to see if this makes some improvement. My latest video demonstrates a reduction in oil consumption since I started using Valvoline. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/jbYx8oHjITo/v-deo.htmlsi=3FS4zviQFI2XTqad
@@DrivingIntelligence okay man! I’ll check it out right now! Thanks!
I miss my 99 f150 5.4.
It had a weeping oil leak btwn the head & block, passenger side rear. Leaked about 1 qt every 4,000 miles. Ran great, otherwise. Solid truck.
1 quart every 4,000 is awesome
Just curious what oil were you running before?
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, a very good oil.
Thanks for your story I hope this OIL solves your problem
It is improving the smoothness and quietness of my engine. And my piston slap has been reduced.
Have you changed the pcv valve? I've seen that be responsible for a lot of oil consumption on the mod motors
PCV is a good point. I have changed it in the recent past.
@@DrivingIntelligence I'm getting ready to work on my dad's f-250 ld that has 230k on it and the pcv has never been changed. It's burned about 1 quart every 1k for about 200k now. Ford called it within spec back in the day.
@@loveracing1988 I have heard these trucks have somewhat loose piston rings... which causes a little blow-by. So far, I'm not sure about this oil. I feel like I was getting better performance out of the Pennzoil, but time will tell.
My 2000 Z71 Silverado 5.3 that currently has 190000 miles on it also has the piston slap which I've owned since New depending on when it's cold after it heats up it also goes away .The truck runs like a champ always have ran Synthetic mostly Mobile One but I switch it up time to time
I've heard this issue also hits GM Vehicles. I had a '98 Lumina that had horrible piston slap at start-up and once warm, ran as good as any engine I ever drove. I'm hoping this oil will reduce the slap a little if I have any issues with the ring-lands.
How’s the test coming along?
see my update video? ua-cam.com/video/jbYx8oHjITo/v-deo.htmlsi=ImDflvzev-XEAA5d
I watched another video on this and, apparently you have to watch it as it can work too good and potentially clog an oil filter in 500 miles, I would use some gunk motor flush first, then switch to Restore and protect if needed.
I've had no problem, when I changed my timing chains, the top of the engine was spotless. Not a bit of carbon or sludge build-up. For those that have not taken care of their engines, that's another story!
So how do I fix my piston slap & timing slap on a 2010 5.4 Triton
that's a broad question... how many miles?
I'm guessing or at least hoping that you've already installed an oil catch can in order to help with capturing some of that blow by so that shit doesn't go back into your intake manifold. If you're burning one and a half quarts of oil change or whatever you said, that's definitely excessive oil consumption and you likely have some oil carbon buildup inside your oil ring. There's actually two different types of carbon buildup within a gasoline engine that Valvoline has done a lot of research and development because they're actually believe it or not they are the only engine oil distributor that has their own engine testing facility. This was a shock to me because I thought every oil distributor or oil manufacturer if you will all have a testing facility in order to better create a proper mixture of oil additives etc. Valvoline had already made an engine engine oil for diesel that does the same thing. There's carbon buildup from gasoline combustion and then you've also got your blow by gases that will pick up small particles of engine oil and recirculate them back through your intake manifold to be burned rather than vented to the atmosphere. There's also a thin layer of oil leftover piston moves downward. It was for many years that the carbon buildup was all from the fuel.. the fuel companies have addressed that situation and corrected it as long as you're running a TIER 1 gasoline there shouldn't be any issues with carbon buildup other than the engine oil. So if you install a quality catch properly on the dirty side of your engine, which is usually bank 2. In doing so the catch can should innate almost 100% of blow by contaminants from your crank case. Your engine engine oil will also last longer by not having to worry about oil delusion for any of the blow by that may contain fuel. Good rule of thumb is if you're having to use an engine oil additive then you may have to check to see if if you're using the proper engine engine oil because seafoam is absolute garbage for your engine followed by RISLONE. The fact of the matter is if you're not 100% sure of the additive package in your existing engine oil and then you go and add an engine oil additive then it is possible to worsen or create a problem that may or may not have existed. Because of the service bulletin you mentioned about Ford putting out I don't think that that was the case that you made things worse. However, I
Strongly suggest installing a catch can as well as the restore and protect engine oil. Do not use an engine engine oil flush! For added protection, I would recommend a PUROLATOR BOSS OIL FILTER. It has by far the best Features of all the oil filters I've researched and used. It's a little bit more expensive but you're likely going to be taking small amounts of carbon out of your so you wanna make sure you're using a high-quality oil filter as well as keeping an eye on the oil pressure. If it goes up too much then you know you've got a restriction created by carbon particles removed from your oil piston rings. This will be a good indicator that the engine oil is working because it will become darker a lot quicker than normal. as far as the piston skirt slap is concerned that's just the nature of the beast. Unfortunately Ford used some customers as a guinea pig with their shorter piston skirt, design in order to try and increase fuel economy by reducing drag within the engine by reducing the weight of the piston in hopes of decreasing the friction. I believe once the oil is cleared up, you should notice a significant decrease in piston skirt slap because there should be a fine film taking up the space like you mentioned, as well as the expansion of the components within the engine. Never deviate from the recommended oil viscosity of your engine unless it has 200,000 miles or more on it then it might be possible to go up a bit thicker oil.. hope this helps a bit. Take care and good luck.
Hi, thanks for this comprehensive comment! I have catch cans on 3 of my 4 vehicles (haven't put together a catch can kit for my 2006 Cadillac CTS V, but one day). I have a full playlist on the benefits and installation of catch cans. Check it out: ua-cam.com/play/PLGNsbVXzRfZOjdPMkX8TdpSbEOhFb4qDe.html&si=z_AoMmMNMFkIWgHv
I've been using quality oils for many years, so I don't have massive amounts of sludge and other particulates that would otherwise clog the oil filter. I'm trying to fine tune my engine's cleanliness by trying this oil to reduce carbon build-up on the pistons and rings, per Valvoline's claims. Since my test truck is out of commission while I rebuild the transmission, more updates are some time off, but forthcoming. Stay tuned and keep commenting!
Collapsed piston skirt causes piston slap-sound because of the skirt's failure to expand to its proper diameter so as just to glide along the cylinder wall. It is difficult to imagine how an oil can restore a collapsed skirt damaged by overheating for instance. A slightly collapsed skirt can be cushioned by a thick oil but an overly collapsed skirt can not be prevented from oscillating about the piston pin regardless of the thickness of the oil. So, how can an oil restore a "collapsed skirt"? I always imagine the piston skirt to be "cam-ground & barrel-shaped" but eventually assumed the roundness of cylinder liner (upon reaching operating temperature) with nothing between them but oil. My usual solution to piston slap is piston replacement assuming the cylinder liner is still healthy.
@@RemigioCarabioVillanueva there is evidence to show that encrusted rings will allow sloppiness of the piston, and therefore piston slap. That is my only hope, that freeing up the rings in the lands will allow them to stabilize the piston. I know it’s a shot in the dark, but that’s what I’m trying to accomplish. You’re talking about other mechanical issues that I am not trying to fix with this oil. My follow up video shows that my oil consumption has dropped dramatically, which is likely due to freeing up the rings and limiting blow by.
The 5.4l 3v timing chain and cam phasers are tensioned by oil pressure it uses oil pressure to tension up and once up to op temp it'll smooth out it's normal.
Hi my friend, you should check out all my other videos. Tons of videos that already cover your points. I have a playlist dedicated to replacement of the 5.4 timing chains and oil pump. Appreciate your comments! And by the way, not just the 5.4 3v, also the 5.4 2v and 4.6.
Piston slap I don’t know if it’s the same as wrist pin slap but I know for a fact wrist pin slap. You don’t hear it when you start the vehicle it’s/after the oil warms up.
Wrist pin slap can be catastrophic, piston slap can last for many years with no other problems
@@DrivingIntelligence yeah but you understand nobody wants to hear that, especially if they take care of their vehicle and keep it looking, mint
So very true. Thankfully mine is only at start-up.
Use a higher zddp oil like redline.its a Pao/ester blend. If that doesn't help there isnt another oil on the market that will.
help with stuck rings? Or something else?
Any update?
not a measured result yet. I need to go through about 4 oil changes per Valvoline for the pistons to be fully cleaned. I can tell you I have no change in piston slap at this time. Thanks for checking in.
@@DrivingIntelligencethanks for the update. Hopefully you’ll see a difference soon.
@@AH6man Just posted an update in the Community Section of my channel. Thanks for your interest.
Curious about it myself if it works and doesn't cause engine problems where you need a new engine because it'll flake away and cause problems. Or it's just snake oil, but I think the issue you have exhaust leak tho
I highly doubt it will cause engine damage, and the exhaust leak is on top of piston slap. I have both as I mentioned in the video.
One thing if it had to error you want piston slap over the same amount over tight!
True
Nice bourbon collection
thank you! Sometimes I need a stiff one after one of my projects! ;)
You can live with 1 qt every 1,500. Try Mobil 1 10w30 and forget those additives and cleaners. A bottle of Lucas injector cleaner is ok. Try to find Mobil 1 Red top 15w50.
thanks for the comment, I'm committed to seeing how much improvement I can achieve with this oil. Check out this video, I've already seen improvement: ua-cam.com/video/jbYx8oHjITo/v-deo.html
How did they get 5 gallons of oil in a 5-quart container?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Try restore
right now I'm testing this oil without any other additives. Depending on results, I might try Restore.
It may help a little. You know 100% is a lie.
you're probably right
Additives will only ruin your engine. Try Mobil 1 15w50 if you can find it.
My go to oil is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Plus synthetic. After seeing lots of reviews, it's the best (other than Redline), but I'm trying this Valvoline to see if I can be pleasantly surprised.
Mobil 1. Accept no substitutes. @@DrivingIntelligence
No..Piston slap is a clearance problem between the piston/rings/cylinder wall...Of course between cold and operating temp..Piston slap noise varies..No Remedy in a bottle..Rebuild with proper machining....
Plenty of studies showing crusted rings contributing to piston slap. And thanks for repeating what I said in my video, can be caused by engine design. Plagiarism is the best complement. ;)
Those are not 5 gallon jugs. 😂😂😂
Yeah! I made a couple mistakes. ;) but I corrected that one with text. What do you think? Will this help piston slap?
Lol
@@DrivingIntelligence I think that clear flooding for about five seconds before you start the truck for the first time each day would be your best bet.
@@stefanpuffer clear flooding?
Typical Ford . People accept it or sell it . I sold lol
lol... thanks for that enlightening comment... certainly no other vehicle was built with piston slap. Such an amazing contribution to my Driving Intelligence Community!
This dude probably drives a Chevy or dodge with failing trannies and rear axles.
Lol
They are NOT 5 gallon !!!!!
Good lord… didn’t you see I corrected myself?! Sheesh
I wiped a cam on that shitty Valvoline. Changed back to Mobil 1 and no more blown engines.
I've been using the Valvoline for over 3k miles with no issue, except I dropped my tranny! No 3rd or 4th. Oil consumption is down, but the longer term test of the oil is on pause at the moment.
@@DrivingIntelligence Use Mobil 1
I used to use that product, now I’m sold on Pennzoil
@@DrivingIntelligence MOBIL 1 Accept no substitutes.
you gotta love the mobil 1 fanboys. They’ll learn one day. The virgin oil test results show mobil’s true colors.
Waste of time watching this.
Wahhhh
lol! Some people have nothing better to do but complain to share their miserable lives.
Thanks for taking the time to do the video. And edit it. No easy job I know. Disregard all the negative feed back.. people will jump all over someone that makes an error. Forget about it. Looking forward to you next video. I got 5.7 hemi 2016 with piston slap gona try 5w30 instead 5w 20 full synthetic and go from there . Cheers Chubby butcher.