Great information. Thank you. QUESTION: Can you please test the strength of the line itself, essentially confirming that the line is breaking at the weight it’s advertised? Thanks!
I was going to point out the same thing. In US most of the line strength ratings are useless and any manufacturer cal list whatever line strength they want. There is no standard by which fishing lines are rated here. Also most of the mono lines will have better knot strength than fluorocarbon unless you use very very stiff nylon lines. At the very least it would be helpful if you posted the diameter of each line.
background: raised in SE Florida and Big Pine Key, fishing for snook from mid-1960's. I've heard these arguments over and over, etc. I think you're "picking nits" for in-shore fishing. I was telling my wife that most in-shore, open faced spinning reels can't pull 13 pounds without the drag letting off. She's also an avid and very experienced snook fisherman. So, I filled a bucket with water to weigh 13 pounds. I hooked up to the reel spool and cranked down on the drag, and cranked down on the drag. At no time could I pick up that 13 pounds. I was using a Shimano 4000 and a Pflueger 3000 weight reels with 15 pound braid and 20 pound leader. I use these reels commonly for snook, redfish, and trout, and others. I have used the rapala knot or non-slip loop, but commonly use a canoeman loop and have never had it fail, as long as it "clicks" when I set it. Past tests show that I use drag in the 5-8 pound range and a bit over if the snook is "headed for the barn"....rod low and at about 10-20 degrees off the fish...butt of the rod, so to speak. Even with drag from water, I doubt line tension ever gets enough to break the knot. If it does, maybe I'll loose the fish. Better that than my gear. Like you, I check my leader and knots often.
I agree with the above comment. In my opinion, the test is only relevant if you are snagged on the bottom etc. and you have to lock the reel down and pull straight to try and get loose, then it comes into play. I use the canoe knot exclusively on lures that do not have a swivel. A couple of years ago I caught a 50lb black drum on 15lb braid with Yo-Zuri 20lb fluro using a canoe knot. The drag and bend in the rod as well as my arm action kept the knot from reaching the above breaking point. This is just an opinion molded with a little "reel" world experience. I am not knocking Salt Strong, they have great content. Their latest one hour interview of a top water specialist was phenomenal!
Learn something new every day, like my uncle says R.I.P. going back to mono. Have a new knot to practice, just started using the uni-knot. Can't wait till I become a member.
I wish you would an old salt water line Maxima mono & flora in one test. I have used Maxima Line even when fishing in Pro tournaments. Try what ever knot you would like to try. Thanks Lamar
Were the mono and Fluro the same diameters in the test? Have seen before that it’s the line diameters that are more important than manufacturer’s # test numbers as these can be for marketing rather than actual.
Wow! One of your best and most useful videos! Those results are surprising. In Jax I don’t see the value of flouro lines at all and don’t use them. The wet vs dry was surprising though. Been a Canoeman user but I think your converting me to non slip.
@@artificialslinger9730 very true. I’ve used canoeman for years as well. The only issue I’ve had is if I accidentally cut the tag end too short it has come loose. Very rare though. They are both great knots.
This is great. I just learning the canoe man and practiced it with 50lb braid. I couldn’t get it to stay tied when i got out on my boat and tied it using Floro...mystery solved! Well done
Wow, very interesting indeed. The only thing difference is that I was never sold on wetting the line to begin with so never have. But, tell you what, Ande is where it’s at now....The fact that you took that time to check the difference convinces me.
Thanks for this i would love you to test lefty's loop. Which we know as a granny knot then a clinch knot and taking the line through the granny knot for the clinch
Great video! What also struck me here is that the breaking point is less than the line strength, whereas with a lot of your braid tests, the breaking point is often above the listed line strength. Does this apply to the other knots also, or only loop knots?
When you refer to breaking strength, where is the line breaking or is the knot untying? Also, I think it would be interesting to compare the strength of a dry-tied knot before and after submerging in water. The whole notion of a difference in strength seems a moot point once you cast a lure in the water.
Rut row. For the canoe man not I make one loop and then the second loop and I go through the first loop with the second loop then the tag end through that second loop and cinch it down. The line will cut into my hand before breaking what kind of knot did I make?
Hi! Please visit the full blog on our website and post there. That way, Luke or one of the coaches can respond back directly to you with feedback. You can find that here: www.saltstrong.com/articles/non-slip-vs-canoe-man-loop-knot/
Try a copolymer like P-line Flouroclear. Benefits of both worlds. Or like the one fella said Flouroshield. It's very affordable compared to straight flouro. Might offer some advantage. Anyway love the videos from the Salt Strong crew, thanks for the info yall provide.
Thanks for the tests! I'm really amazed how much weaker both of those knots are to the pound rating of these lines. i figured on double lining the slip loop knot for now on...it's way beefier that way...it's probably over kill, but i rather be safe than losing the fish of a lifetime.
@@trhenryvlogs9638😄 well I wish I can show you, but same concept but instead you start it like a palomar knot through the eye and when you slide it through the eye do it exactly the same way you do the loop knot...I'm sure you'll get it. Give enough line to do the twists. Whenever you double eye lines gives you twice the strength. If you still have having problems...shoot me an email...I'll help you out with pics...trust me works the same way.
Fluorocarbon has always been a pain for knot tying. But I think the reason to go with it instead of mono is: abrasion resistance and less visibility in water vs mono.
There is a problem with your saliva vs. dry test. In your test, both knots have not been submerged in the water, so 1 is dry during the test, and one is wet. When you're fishing, both are wet. I have a feeling you would see almost no difference at all between the lubricated and non-lubricated knots in terms of strength after both have been submerged in the water.
Because it didn't fail in the 6 tests against the canoe man. It did a couple tests on fluoro with the non-slip loop knot, and the breaking point was roughly 15.5 lbs (I believe that was mentioned in the video).
@@artificialslinger9730 I'm not sure why you believe we are biased in these knot tests... we have nothing to gain by having one knot beat another. My only guess is that you feel we'd be hesitant to show that a knot we've recommended isn't actually the best. But hopefully the fact that we used to recommend Seaguar Blue Label in the past is evidence enough that we'll be quick to admit we were wrong given how we are showing true results of it underperforming in this video. You're absolutely right in saying that the normal act of fishing shouldn't put 13+ lbs of pressure on such light line. The maximization of strength comes in handy to increase the odds of getting a lure back when snagged on the bottom or when in need of stopping a fish from making it into structure.
@@saltstrong9817 I'm looking for 4 piece rod that is extremely durable (don't care about feel as I'm going to use it for survival or camping so I need something that won't break). People recommend me the 4pcs ugly stik gx2 6'6" which is very strong. What do you think? Also is any mono filament brand durable or should i go for ande mono? If i go for ande mono then what type would it be would it be the maxima or the xt version?
I don't know if you will respond to my question but here it is. What abrasion resistance, won't that be an variable in the equation of your testing? If no response then I apologize for wasting your time. Have a good day!
I was wondering if you could compare the FG knot to a knot I've just recently seen thats call the SC knot it seems very similar and maybe a little easier to tie
Have you tried this test with a hybrid line? Probably 95% of my leaders are Yo-Zuri Hybrid, because I don't like the memory of pure flouro nor the stretch of straight mono.
Good information. I would really like to know if there is a reliable way to measure line shyness of each type. Then we van know if the premium price of fluoro is worth it. Wish fish could talk.😂
Fluoro refracts less light than mono but it’s hardly noticeable to our human eye and you could debate how much the fish actually notice, from my experience with underwater videos the fish are more likely to spook from your actual bait or lure than the line itself
I switched back and forth from mono to fluoro for the past couple years, and I did not notice any different in that amount of fish caught per trip (even when using mono down in the FL Keys).
No. That is very tough to measure, and it doesn't solve a real world issue because the weak point will always be the knot as long as the line isn't compromised. That's why we always focus on knot strength even when testing lines against one another (if one has a higher tensile strength but lower knot strength, a fishermen is better off with the one with the lower tensile strength in that case).
Thank for your reply. I follow the reel/real world albeit with fly in salt and dancing on the head of a pin with tippet knots, tensile and line diameters...and use fluro if one is crazy enough to pay 750-1,000 for a rod and 750 to 1000 for a reel 15-20 bucks for Seaguar Grand Max is irrelevant...but I do reel world testing of my tippet knots....both knots that is...loop to fly and tippet to leader...one gallon paint bucket with water digitally weighed and one gallon paint bucket with "heavy" paint digitally weighed ...dead lift... if good then slow move it for stress...results are enlightening and varying with same knots tied two or three times. my vagaries..using .013in Grand Max stated test 20.7lb best I could do was the one gallon of water at 12 lbs with a doubled tippet to Slim Beauty and Non-slip loop to fly...single tippet to slim was only 10lb dead lift but no jiggle
@@raymondhafsten5731 That's a cool way to make sure the knots are holding up! I have had similar findings in the fact that it's super tough to get the same breaking strength on every knot even when using the exact same lines.
I'd be interested in testing out Berkley FLUOROSHIELD which is a fluorocarbon/nylon copolymer line. They advertise it has the same strength as mono. A 30 lb test line is .021 inch diameter thick.
If you are using braid as a mainline, you would not sacrifice much feel by adding a 2' leader. If anything mono will act as a shock leader which is easier to handle. Mono all the way ! Tired of the marketing hype around fluro .
Hey, thanks for the careful testing.... but you are overlooking one important detail. Your tests between flouro and mono would be more accurate if you would use % break strength when compared to the actual (not what's on the label) break strength of each line itself. You do show that Canoe Man is not a good knot for flouro, but you can't do accurate comparisons between mono and flouro simply by using pound strength. You need % break strength. In other words, it is possible that part of what you are proving is that mono manufacturers are more realistic in testing and labelling their lines, whereas flouro sellers tend to exaggerate the strength of their flouro lines.
I’ve never been able to get the canoe knot to tighten down. I wouldn’t use that knot on my shoes. You can tie it on . Then pull the line and the knot pulls right out. I’m not saying I’m doing it right or wrong. But if I was to catch a big fish he’s definitely going to pull the line right out. I’ve tried it different ways then I tie a reg knot on it and it stayed. But I don’t trust that knot anymore than I can throw a boat. 😂 I’m just not getting it. 🤷🏻
Thank you for your question! We have a massive library of fishing tips on our website along with a search feature to let you quickly filter down to find help you're looking for, so just go to www.saltstrong.com/ and use the Search feature in the top menu.
Carolina rig vs 3 way rig Knocker rig vs Carolina rig Leader vs straight braid no leader I think it's an absolute myth that fish can feel the weight of a sliding sinker. Also I think many fish don't care if u have a leader or not.
You don’t need fluorocarbon it’s all hype been using mono leader my entire life plenty of snook landed never felt snook to be a line shy fish. Most important thing is to re tie after each time the line is chaffed
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Great information. Thank you.
QUESTION: Can you please test the strength of the line itself, essentially confirming that the line is breaking at the weight it’s advertised?
Thanks!
...otherwise it's not a knot test !
I was going to point out the same thing. In US most of the line strength ratings are useless and any manufacturer cal list whatever line strength they want. There is no standard by which fishing lines are rated here. Also most of the mono lines will have better knot strength than fluorocarbon unless you use very very stiff nylon lines. At the very least it would be helpful if you posted the diameter of each line.
Mono all the way, you've made me a believer.
Yeah mono is superior strength, cheaper and it’s pretty much invisible if you don’t get colored mono.
Salt Strong staff takes the actual science of fishing seriously, and brings it to the fishing public. Great work! (as always).
Stay Salt Strong..
Liked and subscribed because of the scientific approach. I was shocked that dry performed better then wet
Thanks!
Never get tired of line and knot comparisons, :) I am completely ate up with anything water, boat or fishing related.
Be sure to check out our entire library of Knot Strength Tests here: www.saltstrong.com/article_categories/knot-contest/
I have always used Canoeman without any issues. I will look into the Non Slip, very interesting.
Thanks for sharing!
Wow, thank you for this. The real eye-opener for me is the wet vs dry cinch. Could we have been wrong all this time? Looks like it! Bananas!
background: raised in SE Florida and Big Pine Key, fishing for snook from mid-1960's. I've heard these arguments over and over, etc. I think you're "picking nits" for in-shore fishing. I was telling my wife that most in-shore, open faced spinning reels can't pull 13 pounds without the drag letting off. She's also an avid and very experienced snook fisherman. So, I filled a bucket with water to weigh 13 pounds. I hooked up to the reel spool and cranked down on the drag, and cranked down on the drag. At no time could I pick up that 13 pounds. I was using a Shimano 4000 and a Pflueger 3000 weight reels with 15 pound braid and 20 pound leader. I use these reels commonly for snook, redfish, and trout, and others. I have used the rapala knot or non-slip loop, but commonly use a canoeman loop and have never had it fail, as long as it "clicks" when I set it. Past tests show that I use drag in the 5-8 pound range and a bit over if the snook is "headed for the barn"....rod low and at about 10-20 degrees off the fish...butt of the rod, so to speak. Even with drag from water, I doubt line tension ever gets enough to break the knot. If it does, maybe I'll loose the fish. Better that than my gear. Like you, I check my leader and knots often.
I agree with the above comment. In my opinion, the test is only relevant if you are snagged on the bottom etc. and you have to lock the reel down and pull straight to try and get loose, then it comes into play. I use the canoe knot exclusively on lures that do not have a swivel. A couple of years ago I caught a 50lb black drum on 15lb braid with Yo-Zuri 20lb fluro using a canoe knot. The drag and bend in the rod as well as my arm action kept the knot from reaching the above breaking point. This is just an opinion molded with a little "reel" world experience. I am not knocking Salt Strong, they have great content. Their latest one hour interview of a top water specialist was phenomenal!
Post script: How about that! There are other people like me out there... Hard headed and questioning.
@@AnDre-tq1xr This is good information for those who fish ultralight in fresh water.
Thanks for the direct short report!! Much better than the loooooong videos
Good Stuff!
I’ve used the Canoe Man Loop knot for decades, this was very helpful, and always Spit on it haha
Learn something new every day, like my uncle says R.I.P. going back to mono. Have a new knot to practice, just started using the uni-knot. Can't wait till I become a member.
I wish you would an old salt water line Maxima mono & flora in one test. I have used Maxima Line even when fishing in Pro tournaments. Try what ever knot you would like to try.
Thanks Lamar
Like the quick tutorials and the data
great video
Thanks!
Were the mono and Fluro the same diameters in the test? Have seen before that it’s the line diameters that are more important than manufacturer’s # test numbers as these can be for marketing rather than actual.
No. The diameter of the fluoro was thinner.
i cant find any vids of the non slip knot vs the perfect no slip knot i will have to try it out today my self.
Wow! One of your best and most useful videos! Those results are surprising. In Jax I don’t see the value of flouro lines at all and don’t use them. The wet vs dry was surprising though. Been a Canoeman user but I think your converting me to non slip.
@@artificialslinger9730 very true. I’ve used canoeman for years as well. The only issue I’ve had is if I accidentally cut the tag end too short it has come loose. Very rare though. They are both great knots.
I really appreciate these kinds of videos 👍 keep the info coming
Thanks!
This is great. I just learning the canoe man and practiced it with 50lb braid. I couldn’t get it to stay tied when i got out on my boat and tied it using Floro...mystery solved! Well done
I use the non-slip on all my hard baits. Great comparison. By the way Luke where are your safety Glasses. HAHA
The hand in front of my face was the safety precaution:)
@@saltstrong9817 i would've went all in on that answer, hahaha
Good to know, got right knot but will discontinue fluro on finishing spool, will pass on info, many thanks, Steel Head trout NZ 👍
Wow, very interesting indeed. The only thing difference is that I was never sold on wetting the line to begin with so never have. But, tell you what, Ande is where it’s at now....The fact that you took that time to check the difference convinces me.
Thanks for this i would love you to test lefty's loop. Which we know as a granny knot then a clinch knot and taking the line through the granny knot for the clinch
Nice video, keep doing these test please! from the abrasion testing I’ve been doing, ande mono has the lead even among mono copolymers
Great video! What also struck me here is that the breaking point is less than the line strength, whereas with a lot of your braid tests, the breaking point is often above the listed line strength. Does this apply to the other knots also, or only loop knots?
As a scientist, I sooooo appreciate you bringing science to this field. Good job!
Thanks...
Can. you guys do a test of the double figure 8 loop knot vs the nonslip loop and the perfection loop knot?
Very nice experiments and video!!
This quantifies what I saw when I tried fluorocarbon. Knots failing.
Great test!
I would love to see how triple surgeon's loop knot performs in this comparison
When you refer to breaking strength, where is the line breaking or is the knot untying? Also, I think it would be interesting to compare the strength of a dry-tied knot before and after submerging in water. The whole notion of a difference in strength seems a moot point once you cast a lure in the water.
Rut row. For the canoe man not I make one loop and then the second loop and I go through the first loop with the second loop then the tag end through that second loop and cinch it down. The line will cut into my hand before breaking what kind of knot did I make?
Hi! Please visit the full blog on our website and post there. That way, Luke or one of the coaches can respond back directly to you with feedback. You can find that here: www.saltstrong.com/articles/non-slip-vs-canoe-man-loop-knot/
Try a copolymer like P-line Flouroclear. Benefits of both worlds. Or like the one fella said Flouroshield. It's very affordable compared to straight flouro. Might offer some advantage. Anyway love the videos from the Salt Strong crew, thanks for the info yall provide.
Great presentation! But isn’t the reason for using floro. For stealth?
Thank you....
Good info. Thank you.
do palamor vs uni
Do you think testing this underwater would make any difference?
I think that only difference would be that the digital scale would short out:)
Thanks for the tests! I'm really amazed how much weaker both of those knots are to the pound rating of these lines. i figured on double lining the slip loop knot for now on...it's way beefier that way...it's probably over kill, but i rather be safe than losing the fish of a lifetime.
How would you double it? Can’t think of a way too do that. 🤔
@@trhenryvlogs9638😄 well I wish I can show you, but same concept but instead you start it like a palomar knot through the eye and when you slide it through the eye do it exactly the same way you do the loop knot...I'm sure you'll get it. Give enough line to do the twists. Whenever you double eye lines gives you twice the strength. If you still have having problems...shoot me an email...I'll help you out with pics...trust me works the same way.
I've always used Fluorocarbon leaders, is the double uni a good knot to tie braid to mono. That is what I have used for braid to fluoro
Fluorocarbon has always been a pain for knot tying. But I think the reason to go with it instead of mono is: abrasion resistance and less visibility in water vs mono.
Mono has more abrasion resistance than fluro
There is a problem with your saliva vs. dry test. In your test, both knots have not been submerged in the water, so 1 is dry during the test, and one is wet. When you're fishing, both are wet. I have a feeling you would see almost no difference at all between the lubricated and non-lubricated knots in terms of strength after both have been submerged in the water.
Thanks for the feedback!
Very interesting but why didn't you show results of the non-slip knot on the fluorocarbon?
Because it didn't fail in the 6 tests against the canoe man. It did a couple tests on fluoro with the non-slip loop knot, and the breaking point was roughly 15.5 lbs (I believe that was mentioned in the video).
@@artificialslinger9730 I'm not sure why you believe we are biased in these knot tests... we have nothing to gain by having one knot beat another. My only guess is that you feel we'd be hesitant to show that a knot we've recommended isn't actually the best. But hopefully the fact that we used to recommend Seaguar Blue Label in the past is evidence enough that we'll be quick to admit we were wrong given how we are showing true results of it underperforming in this video.
You're absolutely right in saying that the normal act of fishing shouldn't put 13+ lbs of pressure on such light line. The maximization of strength comes in handy to increase the odds of getting a lure back when snagged on the bottom or when in need of stopping a fish from making it into structure.
@@saltstrong9817 I'm looking for 4 piece rod that is extremely durable (don't care about feel as I'm going to use it for survival or camping so I need something that won't break). People recommend me the 4pcs ugly stik gx2 6'6" which is very strong. What do you think?
Also is any mono filament brand durable or should i go for ande mono? If i go for ande mono then what type would it be would it be the maxima or the xt version?
Try Maxima Mono & Flora. I believe the answers on either will shock people who fish fresh or salt water. Save everyone a lot of money.
I don't know if you will respond to my question but here it is. What abrasion resistance, won't that be an variable in the equation of your testing? If no response then I apologize for wasting your time. Have a good day!
Try this with the figure 8 loop knot
I was wondering if you could compare the FG knot to a knot I've just recently seen thats call the SC knot it seems very similar and maybe a little easier to tie
Have you tried this test with a hybrid line? Probably 95% of my leaders are Yo-Zuri Hybrid, because I don't like the memory of pure flouro nor the stretch of straight mono.
Good information. I would really like to know if there is a reliable way to measure line shyness of each type. Then we van know if the premium price of fluoro is worth it. Wish fish could talk.😂
Great Research you guys!! Thanks!! How heavy can you go with your system... Can you go to 50lb?
I use the mirrolure knot because it’s stupid easy. Wonder how that would do compared to those two
Great work!
I thought the non slip knot is the strongest xD on the insider
I understand the strength, but I thought mono was easier to see for the fish than fluorocarbon. That’s the only reason I use fluoro! Any advice?
Fluoro refracts less light than mono but it’s hardly noticeable to our human eye and you could debate how much the fish actually notice, from my experience with underwater videos the fish are more likely to spook from your actual bait or lure than the line itself
Great info. You should keep a log and do an average fish caught with the two different lines. For like three months or something?
I switched back and forth from mono to fluoro for the past couple years, and I did not notice any different in that amount of fish caught per trip (even when using mono down in the FL Keys).
Goooooood vriy goooooood la pêche 🎣 fishinge 🦈⚓⚓⚓🚢🎣
What was the fluorocarbon break strength on the nonslip knot?
i did it and amazing.. thanks
Of the lines knot tested did you test the actual tensile of the respective lines as opposed to the stated test of 20?
No. That is very tough to measure, and it doesn't solve a real world issue because the weak point will always be the knot as long as the line isn't compromised. That's why we always focus on knot strength even when testing lines against one another (if one has a higher tensile strength but lower knot strength, a fishermen is better off with the one with the lower tensile strength in that case).
Thank for your reply. I follow the reel/real world albeit with fly in salt and dancing on the head of a pin with tippet knots, tensile and line diameters...and use fluro if one is crazy enough to pay 750-1,000 for a rod and 750 to 1000 for a reel 15-20 bucks for Seaguar Grand Max is irrelevant...but I do reel world testing of my tippet knots....both knots that is...loop to fly and tippet to leader...one gallon paint bucket with water digitally weighed and one gallon paint bucket with "heavy" paint digitally weighed ...dead lift... if good then slow move it for stress...results are enlightening and varying with same knots tied two or three times. my vagaries..using .013in Grand Max stated test 20.7lb best I could do was the one gallon of water at 12 lbs with a doubled tippet to Slim Beauty and Non-slip loop to fly...single tippet to slim was only 10lb dead lift but no jiggle
@@raymondhafsten5731 That's a cool way to make sure the knots are holding up! I have had similar findings in the fact that it's super tough to get the same breaking strength on every knot even when using the exact same lines.
how many inch that softbait and what size that jighead?thank you
😳😳😳 NO WAY! Never using fluorocarbon again and never wetting it again 😅
I'd be interested in testing out Berkley FLUOROSHIELD which is a fluorocarbon/nylon copolymer line. They advertise it has the same strength as mono. A 30 lb test line is .021 inch diameter thick.
I haven't seen that line yet.
recommend the non slip on smaller lines such as 4lb 6lb 8lb?
Yes
If you are using braid as a mainline, you would not sacrifice much feel by adding a 2' leader. If anything mono will act as a shock leader which is easier to handle. Mono all the way ! Tired of the marketing hype around fluro .
Sacrificing sacred cows left and right over here!
Hey, thanks for the careful testing.... but you are overlooking one important detail. Your tests between flouro and mono would be more accurate if you would use % break strength when compared to the actual (not what's on the label) break strength of each line itself. You do show that Canoe Man is not a good knot for flouro, but you can't do accurate comparisons between mono and flouro simply by using pound strength. You need % break strength. In other words, it is possible that part of what you are proving is that mono manufacturers are more realistic in testing and labelling their lines, whereas flouro sellers tend to exaggerate the strength of their flouro lines.
I use canoe for everything. Hasn't failed me yet and I fish daily..
Stopped using flurocarbon line 2 yrs ago the most overrated line ever,para
Idiot
Test the Surgeon's Loop, I found the knot strength to be terrible with Fluro.
Wow
I’ve never been able to get the canoe knot to tighten down. I wouldn’t use that knot on my shoes. You can tie it on . Then pull the line and the knot pulls right out. I’m not saying I’m doing it right or wrong. But if I was to catch a big fish he’s definitely going to pull the line right out. I’ve tried it different ways then I tie a reg knot on it and it stayed. But I don’t trust that knot anymore than I can throw a boat. 😂 I’m just not getting it. 🤷🏻
Thank you for the feedback!
The canoe man proves to be the stronger knot. Why do you recommend the other?
Thank you for your question! We have a massive library of fishing tips on our website along with a search feature to let you quickly filter down to find help you're looking for, so just go to www.saltstrong.com/ and use the Search feature in the top menu.
Amazing how durable mono is
Carolina rig vs 3 way rig
Knocker rig vs Carolina rig
Leader vs straight braid no leader
I think it's an absolute myth that fish can feel the weight of a sliding sinker. Also I think many fish don't care if u have a leader or not.
Another reason why i'll stick to copolymer.
I always use mono I cant afford to spend 25$ on leader
You don’t need fluorocarbon it’s all hype been using mono leader my entire life plenty of snook landed never felt snook to be a line shy fish. Most important thing is to re tie after each time the line is chaffed